How to Replace Thermostat Housing 1998-2011 Ford Ranger (4.0L V6)
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
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New Thermostat with Housing Assembly from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ib/1AEM...
This video shows you how to install a new thermostat housing from TRQ on your 1998-2011 Ford Ranger (4.0L V6). The thermostat controls the flow of coolant in your vehicle’s engine. When a thermostat fails, it can lead to overheating, which will damage the engine. One sign of a faulty thermostat is a cool upper radiator hose when the engine is at full operating temperature. It’s important to replace the thermostat immediately if you suspect it is failing.
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
1998 Ford Ranger
1999 Ford Ranger
2000 Ford Ranger
2001 Ford Ranger
2002 Ford Ranger
2003 Ford Ranger
2004 Ford Ranger
2005 Ford Ranger
2006 Ford Ranger
2007 Ford Ranger
2008 Ford Ranger
2009 Ford Ranger
2010 Ford Ranger
2011 Ford Ranger
Tools you will need:
• 13mm Wrench 1aau.to/o3r/1AX...
• 15mm Wrench 1aau.to/o3r/1AX...
• 19mm Wrench 1aau.to/o3r/1AX...
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/obny/1A...
• 11mm Socket 1aau.to/obIh/1A...
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/obIh/1A...
• 15mm Socket 1aau.to/obIh/1A...
• 7mm Socket 1aau.to/obny/1A...
• 8mm Socket 1aau.to/obny/1A...
• Coolant Funnel Set
• Induction Heater
• Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool 1aau.to/odg/1AX...
• Trim Tool Set 1aau.to/oaiZ/1A...
• Twist Socket / Extractor Socket
• Vacuum
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/oFz/1AX...
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/oFz/1AX...
• Pliers
• Air Chisel 1aau.to/ob6/1AX...
• T30 Socket
• 3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet 1aau.to/obIh/1A...
• Ratchet 1aau.to/obLG/1A...
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/obIh/1A...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oaQQ/1A...
• Drill
• Drill Bit Set
• Anti-Freeze
• Brake Parts Cleaner
• Gloves 1aau.to/oas4/1A...
• Rust Penetrant
• Safety Glasses
• Chisel 1aau.to/omv/1AX...
• Drain Pan
• Hammer
• Razor Blade / Gasket Scraper
Subscribe: / @trq
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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Not gonna lie. My 01 Ranger is running so well. 130K mileage. I think new plugs and wires are next. Happy to watch this effort again. Thinking about removing that intake manifold to replace my wires. Just to better clean out the muck. And I had to think about seized bolts. Not seized to the aluminum block but seized to the metal sleeve inside the plastic housing. (like a seized bushing bolt on the lower control arm ~ another story). Here, if you've got the clearance, you can go over each bolt with a hole saw, I used carpenter chisels, free everything around the metal sleeve for each bolt then I used vice grips with care, on what was left to break the threads loose in the aluminum block for a clean removal for each bolt separately. Gotta have a vacuum cleaner set up for this messy job. I know one guy who parted out the whole truck when he was faced with this job. This is definitely my favorite U Tube video. By far. 👍
Yesterday ~ used a long 1/2 inch drill bit, Saws~all, long needle nose pliers, carpenter chisels, to remove all plastic around two studs that turned out to be completely fused to the metal sleeve. Had my vacuum cleaner adapted with a length of garden hose and duct tape. Didn't take any of the stuff here off. Just the air intake setup with the throttle cables. Yea. Three hours of chopping any pieces of plastic at all, crowbar, etc. Used two narrow cedar slats about an inch wide and 16 inches long like chopsticks to get all the soaking horrible mess out from under the intake manifold that you remove here. Had a whole couple of packets of napkins to swab the horror out from behind the thermostat housing. Anyway w/o any of the plastic holding the sleeve in the body of the Thermostat housing, both studs were able to be loosened. Yea. Two of my carpenter chisels, really sharp, carefully removing any plastic and separating the two studs (right back and the middle one that you are working with. I had exactly the same scene that you're working with this morning. Got three M6 100 80mm bolts with a washer to replace the two fused messes and the one that came out on the first try is now a trophy hanging in my kitchen. Thanks for this one! 〰✨💥‼💥✨〰
watching this video after I replaced my thermostat housing on my 4.0L ranger.
I got lucky and didn't have to remove the intake manifold or the alternator and the housing bolts didn't snap. It was a tight job getting the temperature sensor off. But, I was replacing the water pump anyway so was able to get enough space with the water pump out of the way first.
Great detailed step by step video. I would never have done this repair myself witbout it. Turned out perfect, thank you.
Great video, thanks for documenting the whole process!
Makes me glad I own a Mercury Grand Marquis....LOL
I'm only about a third through the video and I can see that you'll need to demo that plastic housing from around that stubborn bolt with a bolt cutter or a small saw or a large hand nipper to gain access to that broken rusted bolt shaft and long bushing dowel rust to bolt. My center bolt was super rusted onto the dowel bushing, as are most of them I suspect. The long inserted dowel/sleeve protects the stupid flimsy housing from over torque and cracking when first installed at the factory. Intake doesn't really need to come off but you do have much more room if you don't mind the extra work and extra risk. I was determined to replace the leaking old brittle thermostat housing with an aluminum housing without removing that stupid plastic intake. I worked carefully slowly and meticulously in that small area under the throttle body horn, vacuumed area real well and change out mine, had the same stubborn rusted center bolt and needed to completely demo the plastic housing, breaking it into several pieces in order to extricate it, leaving nothing but one bolt sticking up, then used penetrant and vice grips on the lone bolt still standing proudly with the long rusty bushing dowel wrapped around it like a python that wouldn't let go, thankfully still with the hex head and perm. washer attached, waiting to be lubricated and removed via vice grips jawed around the permanent washer. Once I unthreaded bolt, an incredible pulling twisting effort and more penetrant was needed to remove the seized sleeve-bushing from around the bolt so I could retain the oem one.
Removed idler pulley to gain better access to bypass hose for replacement.
Way! way! too much work for a thermostat and it's stupid plastic housing.
Probably $1,200 job at the dealer, and they would put oem plastic back in...
the idiots!
What a mess Ford created using a plastic composite housing around such high and low desert heat of 120° in Calif.
Just more planned obsolescence to sell more $50,000 vehicles in 2024.
I was a Air Craft engine/prop Mechanic years before than changed the title to tech. How does that change what I know about the workings of my job? Things are more computer driven now days so I guess the name change made people think you know about the computers that you have to deal with .
The difference between a technician to a mechanic
Thank you for the video, it doesn't seem so intimidating now. I suspect my thermostat housing is leaking. My truck leaks coolant when the front end is on a slight incline, if the rear is higher then it doesn't leak.
I think I'll keep my Edsel.
On 2005 Ranger 4.0 the spring clamps, when squeezed together will stay together. When replacing them, twist the pliers a little bit and it comes loose. This is a, next to worse, case scenario. Worse case is breaking off the ear the bolt went into. Having an Oklahoma truck, that I clean the engine compartment yearly, hopefully My replacement won't be as hard.
Should have installed alternator last followed by idler pulley. Much easier to instal thermostat housing
I installed one of the aluminum housings on MY '08 Ranger 4.0 about 3 years ago. Recently my temp sender started leaking. I got a new O ring for it. To make it easier to install I removed the entire housing and went to get a new lower & upper seals for it. The parts stores HAVE these seals for the factory plastic housings. The smaller, lower seal fits and works just fine. The upper as I call it (The one for the actual thermostat is much thinner and rounded where the one IN the aftermarket aluminum housing is thicker and kind of squared off and just seems to fit better. I asked the same seller that I bought the housing from if THEY had these squared off seals and have not gotten a reply yet. Anyone know WHERE these thicker, squared off seals can be had?
Wow this looks like fun all that for thermostat housing. Wth
Is there any coolant passages for the intake manifold?
Tried it, had four screws left over. I was at the mechanic the next day. Smh
Shame on Ford or Mazda, this is poor engineering. The housing should have never been plastic and the bolts couldn't be any smaller and accessability couldn't be much worse.