At 9:31 it looks like you left the PTO crank seal up against the bearing instead of the retaining shim. Did you ever catch that or is it running that way?
Yes the shim is in it, but there is a gap between the shim and the seal. The gap should be between the bearing and the seal.@@SeadooRefurb Keep up the great content.
Para quem não tem o gabarito (degree) para colocar a válvula rotativa no ponto....veja no minuto 40.00 da gravação do vídeo que a ponta de cima da válvula bate (alinha) com o furo do parafuso da partese debaixo do coletor do escape! Observe! Ah...que torquimetro TOP...um dia vou ter um desse!
Good Morning. rebuilt the entire 787 RFI engine. pistons, rotary valve, fuel pump all new. But the GTX only starts out of the water. Any idea what it could be?
@@SeadooRefurb Hope you don't mind all the questions but I truly appreciate the work you did making these videos and taking the time to check these comments. Anyhow can you give me the specs on the flexhone, like the size(pretty sure 83mm for stock bore), abrasive, and grit?
You said that you had one mark on one gear that align with the divot on the counter balance shaft there should be 1 mark on the counterbalance shaft and two marks on the crank and the one Mark goes between the two did you not have a mark on your counter balance shaft that divot has nothing to do with it
weird my head has the EXACT same cracked peice. I am now wondering if they were made like this? I also noticed this wasn't necessary and didn't affect anything. How did it ride once you installed all of this and did you end up replacing the head?
Why not? I red loctite my primary drive gear, and the clutch basket rebuild in my 2 stroke banshee. It's rode wide open above 70% of its life so far. That jetski motor is not going take nearly the beating my 85hp banshee does. Red locktite will keep your motor from chewing up far more dangerous items. You don't need much and any residual is generally cleaned up. Red loctite is much better than chewing up a primary gear or machine bolt inside your crankcase.
@@skipgrows1622 because if you ever have to rebuild it it's aluminum and red light I will tear the threads out you never want to use red Loctite on a aluminum engine
@@shannonwilliams601 where in my comment did I say anything about red loctite on a bolt that screws into the cases? Red loctite on the nut that goes on to the crank nub and the screws in the back of the clutch basket is not going to stop me from splitting the cases if I ever need to.
Ok, at 42:45 what exactly did you do? Were you spinning something to get the oil to flow through those tubes? I'm having problems with mine not oiling. Great video by the way, well done!
my 787 gave a knock sound the day after I got it, watching this will now help me fix it thank you.
What kind of oil you used for the 30 ml
Hi i am rebuilding a seadoo spx with the same engine . Do you put in the engine with carbs and exhaust ? There is so little space .
So what is the plastic thing you put on the flywheel for the oil pump called?
At 9:31 it looks like you left the PTO crank seal up against the bearing instead of the retaining shim. Did you ever catch that or is it running that way?
The retaining shim is in there for sure. Not sure if that got edited out in error on not ??
Yes the shim is in it, but there is a gap between the shim and the seal. The gap should be between the bearing and the seal.@@SeadooRefurb
Keep up the great content.
Well it was the oil pump shaft that failed, which destroyed my motor!
Gota love hammer chisel machanics 😂
Para quem não tem o gabarito (degree) para colocar a válvula rotativa no ponto....veja no minuto 40.00 da gravação do vídeo que a ponta de cima da válvula bate (alinha) com o furo do parafuso da partese debaixo do coletor do escape! Observe!
Ah...que torquimetro TOP...um dia vou ter um desse!
There all like that
Thanks for the video
you put the crankshaft end seals in wrong
they are to be spaced out to crankcase ends for lubrication
Instead of chunking that head you can take it to any aluminum shop and they will weld it for you for about $30
Hey Matt, I'm from Orillia. What shop was it that you got that crank from? Thanks neighbor. Great video.
I have a 95 XP I just bought, it was sitting for 3 years, any idea why there is oil pissing out the exhaust when its running, starts and runs fine ?
You might have the same problem I am having where oil is leaking into the crankcase which can get into the cylinders/exhaust
Good Morning.
rebuilt the entire 787 RFI engine. pistons, rotary valve, fuel pump all new. But the GTX only starts out of the water. Any idea what it could be?
low compression probably, did you bore/hone the cylinder?
its a "ball hone " or flex hone , great video
GOOD
Where did you find an OEM crank? It wasn't a reman was it? Noticed the red OEM seals
It was a remanufactured crank. I just take the old one in for a core and ick up a new one.
@@SeadooRefurb Was it through your local sea-doo dealer?
I purchased it from a sports engine repair shop in Barrie Ontario. Bondi is the name
@@SeadooRefurb Hope you don't mind all the questions but I truly appreciate the work you did making these videos and taking the time to check these comments. Anyhow can you give me the specs on the flexhone, like the size(pretty sure 83mm for stock bore), abrasive, and grit?
hello wi can i buy or download the repair manual for the engine?
Seadoomanuals.net
Thx for your help👍🏻
You said that you had one mark on one gear that align with the divot on the counter balance shaft there should be 1 mark on the counterbalance shaft and two marks on the crank and the one Mark goes between the two did you not have a mark on your counter balance shaft that divot has nothing to do with it
There is a blue line on the crank gear and a blue line on the the counter balance. They need to align.
weird my head has the EXACT same cracked peice. I am now wondering if they were made like this? I also noticed this wasn't necessary and didn't affect anything. How did it ride once you installed all of this and did you end up replacing the head?
scratch that, just looked up used ones and they are not broken. Oh well.. any news if it's needed?
I did change it but there was no change in performance.
@@SeadooRefurb good to know. Im sure cooling won’t be affected either
Congratulations on the friend video, I'm working on an identical engine and I don't have the assembly manual, could you help me and send it by email?
seadoomanuals.net/
I hope that's not red Loctite you're using because that will destroy that motor
The only thing I use red loctite on is a counter balance shaft to the compressor on a 951. Everything else gets blue loctite 243.
Why not? I red loctite my primary drive gear, and the clutch basket rebuild in my 2 stroke banshee. It's rode wide open above 70% of its life so far. That jetski motor is not going take nearly the beating my 85hp banshee does. Red locktite will keep your motor from chewing up far more dangerous items. You don't need much and any residual is generally cleaned up. Red loctite is much better than chewing up a primary gear or machine bolt inside your crankcase.
@@skipgrows1622 because if you ever have to rebuild it it's aluminum and red light I will tear the threads out you never want to use red Loctite on a aluminum engine
@@shannonwilliams601 where in my comment did I say anything about red loctite on a bolt that screws into the cases? Red loctite on the nut that goes on to the crank nub and the screws in the back of the clutch basket is not going to stop me from splitting the cases if I ever need to.
Ok, at 42:45 what exactly did you do? Were you spinning something to get the oil to flow through those tubes? I'm having problems with mine not oiling. Great video by the way, well done!