This is literally the only video/source of information that properly explained this. I already knew this as i am a WIP speaker company, however I am a huge supporter of DIY and love to see guys educating people properly. Thanks and keep it up.
Put really simply, a 4 ohm tweeter is going to be too loud for an 8 ohm woofer. But it also depends on the sensitivity of each driver, so what I said is just an average tendency.
Hi, thanks for the vdo,I have a doubt, what is the calculation for 10ohm and 4ohm in parallel to get 2.67ohms,as I know the calculation for same ohms speaker.2 speaker of 8ohms give a total impedance of 4ohms,
Thanks for the great information! You explain things so well. I tried to get into DIY speaker-building in 2000 but got frustrated and quit because I just couldn't get good answers to my questions. Now I am excited to try again!
Hi, Im upgrading an instrument speaker system that includes an 8 ohm woofer connected to the low frequency tap of a 3 way passive crossover and an 8 ohm high frequency driver connected to the mid range tap. The crossover point i chose for this cabinet is 800hz . With both speakers connected to the crossovers I measured the load at the input with my multimeter and the reading was 7.2 ohms. Then I removed the 8 ohm high frequency driver and replaced it with a 16 ohm. I connected the multimeter again and the reading is still 7.2 ohms. I didnt expect that. The project is an old Leslie speaker cabinet designed for musical instruments, mainly for organs, and it has a 20 watt tube amp that is designed to drive an 8 ohm load. So after I installed the new speaker I hooked up a guitar to the cabinet and powered it up with the volume set at about 40%. It sounds great. No smoke or burning smells, no crazy fuzzy or crackling noises either. I didn’t find any indication of overheating that i could recognize so I turned the volume up to about 60% and continued to listen for noises and sniffing for any signs of trouble for about 2 minutes then I powered down. The transformers felt normal and cool to the touch. So, am i missing something? It still appears to be an 8 ohm load coming from the crossover. Does that make sense? Thanks
The only thing missing was when you make a crossover, you need to make the HP and LP seperate depending on the drivers used. In this instance calculate the crossover parts for the woofer at 8 ohms and the tweeter at 4 ohms. If you just use a crossover calculator and do not differentiate the ohms to driver spec, one of the drivers is going to not be crossed over that the frequency you thought it would be. IE an 8 ohms crossover @ 4000hz with a 4 ohms driver will actually be crossed at 2000hz. You will either end up with a frequency gap between the 2 way drivers, or a frequency duplication (which a duplication would be not too good for the amp if it happens that your nominal impedance goes below 3 ohms)
I am making some 3 way speakers with a woofer for lower bass and a 3" coaxial (time aligned) driver for upper bass, med and treble. It's a (five dollar) 3" full range driver with a madly thin cone (great transient response) and it's resisted a bit to take the load off it (except the top) with a 1.5 mf cap in parallel with the 6.8 ohm resistor and .22 inductor. And...(wait for it) there is another micro full range driver (stripped of it's cone) and stuck on the rear of the 3" FR driver. And a thin stick is glued to the micro FR voice coil tube and the stick runs through a (drilled) hole in the 3" FR driver. And the stick pokes out at the cone's center and a tiny foil "tizzer" is glued to the end of the thin stick. The tizzer is time aligned with the 3" driver's cone center. I have one complete speaker (in the box) basically made and the other should be finished in a day or two. It's a 3-way that looks like a 2-way and the boxes are semi omni (slanted drivers) and top (inverted pyramid) horns, it has nice directional and omnidirectional qualities. It blares when in front and also it's not "muffly" anywhere in the room. But that's just the boxes, what really adds to the spacial sound is the coaxial point source sound. And the med is so resolving cos of the super thin cones and the extra treble extension of the coaxial is obvious compared to the FR drivers by themselves. I did it with piezo's once (years ago) and you basically can't hear anything come out of piezos (by themselves) but when you put them in a FR driver's throat LOOK OUT, you got treble! Just like full-on tweeters! But piezo's have a "cold" treble sound and on house, they sound "scratchy" (great on jazz though). I had to drill the FR drivers still, for the wires and support for the piezo, and when the FR driver cone "excurted" it had to miss the piezo. Only possible cos I found such small ones (rare piezos). But now I'm REALLY HAPPY cos I can do it with coil drivers and it sounds way better than piezos and adds to the treble the same way and "stings" like crazy. And now I can play house and it sounds way awesome, not "scratchy". I'm listening to one, the one I just finished and it's the best speaker I have made. Better 3 way med with the small thin cone (instead of the 2-way thick heavy woofer cone) and the point source coaxial sound that goes way higher than the usual 12 kh of the 3" FR driver. I can't do it with tweeters, cos I can't strip the domes. I can strip cone tweeters but they are a thing of the past, I'm afraid. And the tiny size of the stripped micro FR driver is pretty lightweight and the stick is micro thin without being too flexi. And the tizzer is a tear drop shape like < 1/4" big. And the hardest job (besides drilling the driver) is sticking the tizzer on the end of the stick. I have also experimented with lifting the 3" driver above the speaker box hole like on and angle and average of like 1/2" gap from the hole. And there is a 2" deep cardboard ring around the speaker hole, going 2" down into the box. That makes the 3" driver gap act as a bass vent. If you don't do it, the tone will be shocking with the speaker above the hole (and bonky bass). The idea of the gap is to get amazing med sound, with more "openness" and "ambience" and the voice sound is more "live". There is also more treble from the FR driver (when it's semi open cone) and it's sweeter treble and goes up higher too. But it has to be choked (.3 mh) and the treble is pinched up with 1.5 mf cap. 1.5 sounds MAGIC with the cone semi open. It gets rid of that "chiffy" sound FR drivers can produce (noticeable with house, and especially with semi open cones) and the 1.5 cap makes the treble "sting". The extra treble coaxial unit has a 1 mf (ceramic) cap, whereas the 3" FR has the usual (electrolytic) tweeter cap. Why, cos it sounds better with this combination.
Maybe I missed this in the video. I know you said you are using 3000 hz 2nd order crossover. Are you using one 2 way 2nd order 8 ohm crossover? Or one 2 way 2nd order 4 ohm? Or seperate one low pass 8 ohm crossover and one high pass 4 ohm crossover? Do you have a wiring diagram of this setup? Thank you.
1. your amp should be able to deliver 4 and 8 ohm output. 2. You can use crossovers with H for 8 ohm and L for 4 ohm It all depends on the amp and crossovers.. I am currently using two main channel and both the channel include 2 woofer 8+8ohm and 1 tweeter 8ohm. So I designed crossovers accordingly. 8 ohm for tweeter and 4 ohm for two woofers.
I enjoyed the videos. I have a 3 way set of speakers I built with my father in 1975. The RadioShack tweeter went out and replaced with Morel Cat 378. I have a 2nd order 2000hz 8 ohm crossover on the tweeter, the woofer 12" full range speaker 50-11000hz with no crossover, the midrange 8" RadioShack 110Fs ( I was unable to find its freg range) and have a single Polycap 20uf, and the tweeter is 1800-22000Hz. There is a 2 1/4 front port. The speaker sounds pretty good but I am not sure I should do a band pass on the midrange. Since using the Morel the speakers are more sensitive to poor cd or album recording quality's sometimes sounding a little harsh. The receiver is a Marantz 2250B. Any suggestions ideas? Thanks for your time and help Dave
Super stuff, all makes good sense; many thanks. I the system you modelled the gain level after the crossover is higher than before, will this still sound ok? Thanks again UKBob
Thanks a lot for the info. I just want to know when designing a 3 way speaker build, when doing the crossover on the design and using a 2 channel stereo Amp do you only use 1 channel on the Amp or should you use both? Should you connect the woofer on one channel with its separate crossover and the mid and tweeter on the other channel with their crossover.
Is it possible for two 8 ohms tweeter in series config and connect it to 8 ohms instrumental speaker in parallel config what is the equal ohms of this combination. I have a stereo amp that supports 8 to 16 ohms is it all good or bad for the speaker and amp?
Only thing is, don't use a 8 ohm tweeter if the original speakers' crossover was designed for a 4 ohm tweeter. Using an 8 ohm in that case will change/lower the crossover point and damage your tweeter. Correct?
Did you make that excel sheet calculator or it available online??? It looks like such a good learning tool. Thank you so much for explaining this in such an easy to follow way, this helped me in school to understand several concepts in AC circuits.
This is a free Excel spreadsheetthat you can download. I have the download link in my video called five tools every speaker builder needs. If you check out that video, you should see the link there.
What about 2 8 ohm woofers with a 4 ohm tweeter, will the fianl through a 2 way crossover only be 2 ohm? Wanting to put 2 woofers as mids in a door with a tweeter and run all 3 on one channel.
Fantastic! Hi dude. Can you recomend a fairly shallow 2 way or 3 way speaker that sounds great at low volume, It is for tv, so detailed voices are a must. Passive. Thanx.
How can I thank you for this? Every single word till the end was the most helpful thing I've come across regarding speaker building. You deserve more subscribers and just got yourself one more. Cheers from Pakistan!
What about the reverse, a 4 ohm woofer with an 8 ohm tweeter, or in a four way design with an 8 ohm woofer, 4 ohm midwoofer, and 8 ohm midrange and tweeter? These are the parts I have laying around an I want to do something with them. I could go with two 4 ohm midwoofers, mounted at an angle to aid in dispersion or a Midwoofer, midrange, Tweeter and Midwoofer arrangement. What’s the best way to use these drivers?
in my experience it's OK to connect the tweeter paralell with the midrange/bass driver , just feed the tweetwr through a10 uF capacitor, and you will be fine.enjoy!
Am planning to make a 4 way speaker build, it was supposed to be 3 way, .. but the crossover i finally chose as a HF point of 3k, which is low for the AMT... So i thought I'll use a soft dome ... And add another 2 way custom 2nd order LR crossover for tweeters of 8ohm and 4 ohm.. so now Woofer is 4 ohm, mid is 8 and tweeter and tweeter are 8 and 4, is this feasible?
Marlon Jimenez sure, I believe that would work! If it’s a capacitor that’s designed to cross over the tweeter it should be fine. But if it’s just to protect from amplifier pop in a bi-amped system, I’d be more wary of using it as your crossover. Also, make sure it can handle the wattage you’re sending to it
Ok so that explanation was perfect. But i have a question i cant seem to find an answer for so hopefully you can explain this to me? So it relates to the power split of the drivers. In a 3 way speaker that has a subwoover, a mid range and a tweeter, how does a 50 watt input get divided? Im yrying to pick the woofers for a design like that but im not sure what rms they need to handle. Does the power get equally split by the two woofers and the tweeter get a fraction of that? So in that scinario both woofers need an rms of at least 25-30?
The lower in frequency you get, the more energy is required to reproduce that frequency. That’s why you see 1000w subwoofers, but nobody is putting 1000w straight into a dome tweeter. Your subwoofer will take the most, your midwoofers will usually take less than the subwoofer depending on where you’re crossing it over, your tweeter doesn’t use too too much.
Hello, thank you for the information, I appreciate It. Do you know any group or website that is dedicated to DIY speakers ? I want to start getting into, I don't understand a lot but maybe with support from people who does I can someday build my own speaker. 🙂
So you said that I can use a 6 0hm tweeter and a 4 ohm mid as long as I use an 8 ohm woofer? this is correct so how is that Cerwin Vega uses 4 ohm woofers too and get that 8 Ohms on the three way systems? Thank you
my vintage amp uses two (one for each channel) STK-0080 power amplifier paks, and they are rated at wpc rms into 8 ohms with no more than .09THD. I was told to better use 8 ohm speakers and not use 4 ohm speakers due to driving em too hard for too long..the stk's burn up. BTW: I do not understand this laboratory talk.
Okay, I am upgrading speakers on an old Boombox I found to try to get it to sound better. Here is my setup: I have a tiny 2 channel amp which produces 10 watts RMS at 8 ohms, or 20 watts RMS at 4 Ohms. It is a two channel amp. I wanted to use budget parts, so at Parts Express I found a nice 4 ohm 20 watt RMS full range speaker, and wanted to pair it with a 6 ohm 10-watt tweeter. Can I run each midrange and Tweeter in parallel without a crossover, or do I need a crossover? I'm not running that much power, and I thought the Tweeter would be protected. What do you think?
FEMA Region 9 short answer is no, you should not run it that way. That's a sure way to blow your tweeter. However, a simple 1st order crossover on each speaker along with a resistor to attenuate the tweeter should be enough. That's 3 parts in total and probably less than $6 a speaker or $12 total.
123Toid thanks for answering. I totally agree with you but didn't know where to start when trying to do this. I ended up calling Parts Express and spoke to one of their people, who actually guided me to crossover frequencies.com and walked me through the process of identifying the exact components I would need to accomplish this. A very interesting experience. Thanks a lot, I'm glad you and others have RUclips channels so people like me can continue learning. Keep up the great work!
123Toid one more question. Like I said I'm doing this to an old school Boombox. If I'm using a small separate amp built into the cabinet, what do I use as the input signal? Do I use the output from the stereo that goes to the speakers and feed it into the amp? Or, do I tap into the headphone output and run that as the signal source for the amp? If I use the headphone jack, I lose the ability to fade from left to right.
123Toid thanks again for the quick response. That's kind of what I thought, but wanted to ask someone who knew better. I'll look for the outputs first on the board, if I have a problem locating them then I'll just use the headphone jack output.
Hello there. I have somewhat of a simple question? I want to change the tweeters in my ( Premier Acoustic PA 8.12 ) loud speakers and they're both rated at 4 ohms, but the tweeters (Polk Audio DB1001) are made for a vehicle application. My question is will this setup harm the crossover inside the speakers ? My speakers are rated at 200 to 400 watts and the tweeters are rated at 60 watts, 180 peak and both are set at 4 ohms. Thanks in advance.😇👍👍👍
So if I am using 3 8ohm mid bass and 2 4ohm tweeters with 3.3 if 100v bipolar bass blocker / crossover would that be a 2.66666 ohm? I’m doing the 3 mid bass and 2 tweeters on each side
Wiring two 4 ohm woofers in parallel and adding one 4 ohm tweeter in series with a crossover to one of those woofers, does the amp see a 2 ohm or 4 ohm load from the tweeter?
I am going to ask, is it safe to use lets say a 600w woofer and obviously a lower watt tweeter on the same power supply without damaging the tweeter at higher power levels as you said? or will I need something that regulates the power to the tweeter? Also, the resistors and such, they all have very low rated wattage, I'm assuming you don't have to match there wattage to the wattage your running to the woofer? seems odd..
That is a good question that requires a lot of explaining and more information provided. However, the simplest answer is, no. This is one of the main reasons manufacturers like Definitive Technology, Golden Ear and even Polk Audio have built speakers with powered subwoofers in the same cabinet.
Thanks for the quick reply :) and one more thing, would it be simpler to just have a different power Input on the back of the speaker for the tweeters then the input for the woofers, and a set of different amplifiers running just the tweeters along with a dedicated high pass crossover for the tweeter,.. if that makes sense?
You're Welcome. Typically you wouldn't use a 600w woofer alone with a tweeter. Woofers, usually do not have have the capability to go high enough to crossover with a tweeter. There are exceptions (such as PA speakers), but for home audio, you would be using a midrange to crossover with a tweeter. And the mid would not need nearly that much power. When talking about a 600w woofer, you are typically talking about a subwoofer which rarely are used above 200hz.
Power consumption increases by a factor of 4 for each octave you go DOWN in frequency (and, conversely, it requires only on fourth the same amount of power as go up an octave) If you need 100 watts of RMS to deliver a sine wave at 90 dBs of SPL at 80 Hz, you need only 25 watts to deliver an equal level at 160 Hz and 8 watts at 320, etc.
i have a bluetooth speaker harman kardon play 2 and the speaker is blown out,i read the specs of the harman kardon and it says Input Impedance250mV/>10k ohms..the original blown out speaker was 4 ohms my question is can I replace it with an 8ohm rated speaker from the specs it have? Thanks
You can't define such thing as "4 ohm" amplifier. Amplifier is composed in two or mostly three stages which provide voltage and/or current amplification and impedance matching. Driving higher impedance loads is not a problem since the current gain would be lower which translates in less current and heat disipated by the transistors. Theoretically the "4ohm" amp, that can dissipate 100W of power driving a 4ohm load, can dissipate only 25W driving the 16ohm load.
I'm considering building a set of components speakers... 4ohm 300wrms 6.5 mids and a set of 8ohm 500wrms 2" super tweeters on a Hifonics Gladiator 100.4 watts 4ohm amp... Would this be a great setup or should I just look to piece together a 4ohm component set instead???
Two 4 ohm drivers? Like a tweeter and a mid? That can't be done with a crossover for the reasons mentioned in the video. You can hook up two 4ohm mids or woofers and wire them in series after the crossover to get an 8ohm load.
Thanks for answerning my question, connecting two 4ohm driver in series i get a 8 ohm... i understand that... Than the crossover also need to be connected in serie or not?
@@p3ras1983 I think you are misunderstanding. A 4 ohm tweeter and midwoofer will not equal 8ohms if there is a crossover. However, if you are using two 4 ohm woofers or midwoofer and a tweeter, they (the woofers or mid) will be wired in series after the crossover network to equal 8 ohm. The crossover network wiring does not matter.
I spent much time boiling over what will happen when I re-cone my originally 7.5 ohm blown woofer with a new voice coil that measures in at 6.5 ohm. This video literally took less than 10 mins to tell me Im overthinking the situation and not to worry. SO thank you!
Since most amp's can handle 4ohm i don't see a problem here. Some times it even is needed to do so. Im currently working on a studio quality 2way speaker that can play pretty loud and low. I will use a 10" 8ohm low and wavecor 30mm tweeter in the waveguide and 4ohm version. it can cross VERY low! I will cross it at 1,1khz. The 10" makes about 92-93db at 2,83V wich is 1watt at 8ohm's and the tweeter would only do about 90db at that in the 8ohm version. So i MUST use the 4ohm version wich makes 93db at 2,83V.
I'm brand new at this speaker building stuff, and I'm watching your vids over and over trying to let the info sink in. But, I'm still a little confused as to impedance vs crossover construction. If I use the soft ware and construct a proper 3 way, I really only have to worry about the largest woofer for over all impedance of the speaker?
@ 123Toid.... Hi. This is my question from your 'The Reveal' video.....Once you add the 8 ohm resistor (Attenuation) in series to the 4 ohm Tweeter, would the amp now see this as a 12 ohm load (since you’ve not used a 2 pole series and parallel resistor L-pad). What will be the calculation for the high pass capacitor. Will you calculate based on 4 ohm load or 12 ohm load.
The crossover is still based off the 4 ohm tweeter. THe resistor is resisting (attenuating) the amount of power going to the tweeter. This lowers the volume of the tweeter to an acceptable lever compared to the other drivers (ie the midrange). But it has no effect on the crossover frequency at all.
This is an interesting field, i would like to know more and learn more... I what to build my own home theater speakers, im a very good wood worker but lake the technical knowledge about crossovers, what speakers to choose, how to mach speakers. My knowledge is a bit higher than average person but for my it's not enough!
It's not as hard as you would think. But it isn't simple either. Anyone can make great sounding speakers if they like and look good as well. I am dedicating this channel to electronics building and main speaker building. Feel free to check out my other videos. One of the keys key to a great sounding speaker is making a proper crossover. Here is a link to all the videos in the crossover design series. It uses all free software: ruclips.net/p/PL6hjpiCHZmIPx3itPeTt7zoSqNY20OQqV
I have a question that you kinda answered but not completely. As we know, most speakers have usually a more powerful woofer in wattage that the tweeter. How do we know how many watts our tweeter should be if we have a 500 watt woofer for example? I know that we need to match them at decibels but is this the only thing? How the crossover sends the right amount of power to the tweeter and not blowing it up? I mean, in a speaker with a 500watt woofer we need a 500watt or more amplifier. Obviously, the power contribution between the woofer and the tweeter is not 50-50 but how is it? Sorry for the long question and thanks in advance
That's a little more complicated to answer than you would think. It all depends on the crossover slope (order) and frequency in which it is crossed over at. This is one of the reasons crossing you need to be careful of crossing over a tweeter too early. Here is a chart for at least a 2nd order crossover: www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/multi-way/52292d1130223767-power-distribution-fane-gif and you can also check out this for a 3 way: www.silcom.com/~aludwig/EARS.htm#Soft_sounds_and_loud_sounds
It doesn't matter when u use 4ohm tweeter and 8ohm woofer with 8ohm amplifier ...... If u have 100 watt per channel amplifier .... That doesn't mean all 100 watt go through both woofer and tweeter ...... But actual is ..... Woofer required higher watts of power ( depeny on voice coil length diameter turns , cone areas ) At that watts woofer ohm must be nominally equal to amplifier ohm ( 8ohm woofer to 8 ohm amp ) Same way Tweeter not required so much watts power ( which mean is has smaller voice coil length diameter , very small cone ) At that low watts any ohm tweeter is run on any ohm amplifier ...... because tweeter have attenuation on Xover Simply. U can run 8ohm woofer with 4 ohm tweeter ....😀 .....but woofer ohm is must be equal to amplifier ohm ...
No crossover, I'm just interested in using up a couple sets of 4 ohm speakers I have collecting dust to build a couple 8 ohm cabinets strictly for midrange. Thanks for the upload, and thanks for the reply. Liked and subscribed.
Hello Toid!, My name is Franz and I have big question i know you can answer easily. 1 year ago i got a 4 channel amplifier capable of 75 W rms per channel at 4 ohm and 100 W rms at 2 ohm per channel. I hooked up 4 coaxial full range speakers of 4 ohm (One per channel). The problem was i was lacking of highs. So i am thinking about adding extra tweeters to my system by putting them in parallel with the coaxial speakers with their respective crossover (crossover only for the tweeters because the coaxial are full range(they have mid bass and tweeter)). Is that solution ok, or is it wrong? (For example: 4 ohm coaxial in parallel to 4 ohm tweeter per channel: So the amplifier is gonna see 2 ohm per channel, so my max power per channel is going to be 100 W rms) Mathematically i know, the impedance is not linear in the frequency axis and the coaxial is gonna request more power than the extra tweeter butttt.... And here is another question, if i turn up the volume slowwwwly, how i know when my amplifier or tweeter is gonna blow up or start clipping? Post data: My neighbor has an oscilloscope hehehe. My actual system is: (JBL 600Wrms 4ohm mono amp ==> subwoofer Rockford P3 600Wrms 4ohm) (Rockford prime amp r400-d4 ==> 4 coaxial speakers = Rockford T1650)
(in the future ==> one new amp for adding only midrange woofer and bullet tweeter)
Speaker NOOB here. S.O.S. please. Samsung HTX40 is my main amp unit, if it helps. I'm thinking of replace my five 3 Ohm surround speakers (Samsung PS-FX40) because one fell the other day in a worried haste and I can't seem to open it to poke around to see if I can fix some simple loosened wire. Crap. I feel like an idiot gorilla shaking this closed black box. My subwoofer is 3ohm. I found a 5 set of 6 Ohm Yamaha NS-840 speakers (w/o subwoofer) for sale. Can I match those together successfully without doing surgery? Humbly out of my depth and kindly submitted.
Having bought some speakers with blown tweeters I replaced them with bullet tweeters, The tweeters are 4ohm but the bass drivers are 8ohm fitted with two way crossovers which I also replaced (the crossovers had blown) Now the tweeters sound much more louder than the bass drivers. I have changed the crossover frequency but no differance at all, 2k 2.5k 3k and 4k. Is there an easy way to level the output without replacing the tweeters for 8ohm ones ? or is it because bullet tweeters are louder anyway ?
Now that is a great question! Typically you should not use a speaker that is not rated for your receiver. However, i use my Reveal speakers (4 ohm) and my DIY Dayton Soundbar (4 ohm) with my Pioneer Elite receiver only rated at 8 ohms. Most receivers have an auto shut off if they get too hot. of course, you are hoping that fail safe actually works. Some of that comes to the fact, that I am not using much power for them, which makes it much easier on the receiver.
So the only downside is the heat? cuz i have seen people running car subwoofers 4 ohms running with stereo or surround amplifiers which are 100+ wpc ... any thought?
It doesn't matter when u use 4ohm tweeter and 8ohm woofer with 8ohm amplifier ...... If u have 100 watt per channel amplifier .... That doesn't mean all 100 watt go through both woofer and tweeter ...... But actual is ..... Woofer required higher watts of power ( depend on voice coil length diameter turns , cone areas ) At that watts woofer ohm must be nominally equal to amplifier ohm ( 8ohm woofer to 8 ohm amp ) Same way Tweeter not required so much watts power ( which mean is has smaller voice coil length diameter , very small cone ) At that low watts any ohm tweeter is run on any ohm amplifier ...... because tweeter have attenuation on Xover Simply. U can run 8ohm woofer with 4 ohm tweeter ....😀 .....but woofer ohm is must be equal to amplifier ohm ... In power figure of 100watt / ch amp ... In typical 2 way .... 12 db/ octave Xover @2.5k 30% or below power used in tweeter 70% or below power useed in woofer As Xover point increase and slop order increase ..... Tweeter power handling decrease ....
That is correct. You have to compensate for ti. but often tweeters have such a high sensitivity, that you are usually attenuating them down to match the woofer.
The lower the impedance the more power the amplifier can deliver to the coil, so the less ohm the louder it may sound. wich means a 4 ohm tweeter would sound louder on the same volume level on an amp than an 8 ohm would wich means the tweeter would be louder with the 8 ohm mid than for instance an 8 ohm tweeter with an 8 ohm mid.
The best woofer in the world for $30. lol If you want to PAY, look no further than the Feastrex top 8" full range drivers (not even coaxials) and they cost 70 grand a pair (just the drivers). lol
STILL CONFUSED WHY FOLKS SAY "THANK YOU"? FOR WHAT - BLA BLA BLA LECTURING... ABSOLUTELY NOT HELPFUL!!! THE QUESTION WAS -CAN I REPLACE TWEETER IF IT HAS A DIFFERENT IMPEDANCE IN A 3-WAY SPEAKERS SYSTEM? YES OR NO!!! THAT'S IT!!!
Put really simply, a 4 ohm tweeter is going to be too loud for an 8 ohm woofer. But it also depends on the sensitivity of each driver, so what I said is just an average tendency.
my vintage amp uses two (one for each channel) STK-0080 power amplifier paks, and they are rated at wpc rms into 8 ohms with no more than .09THD. I was told to better use 8 ohm speakers and not use 4 ohm speakers due to driving em too hard for too long..the stk's burn up. BTW: I do not understand this laboratory talk.
lower ohm = more current. So your amplifier is probably not designed to deliver enough current. Most home speakers are 6 or 8 ohm. Keep in mind some speakers can dip very low to 3 ohm, or in rare cases lower.
my vintage amp uses two (one for each channel) STK-0080 power amplifier paks, and they are rated at wpc rms into 8 ohms with no more than .09THD. I was told to better use 8 ohm speakers and not use 4 ohm speakers due to driving em too hard for too long..the stk's burn up. BTW: I do not understand this laboratory talk.
This is literally the only video/source of information that properly explained this. I already knew this as i am a WIP speaker company, however I am a huge supporter of DIY and love to see guys educating people properly. Thanks and keep it up.
Thank You, I really appreciate that
@@Toid please answer this...So the tweeter and midrange are included in the calculation for final impedance? I thought it was only for woofer and sub?
Put really simply, a 4 ohm tweeter is going to be too loud for an 8 ohm woofer. But it also depends on the sensitivity of each driver, so what I said is just an average tendency.
Hi, thanks for the vdo,I have a doubt, what is the calculation for 10ohm and 4ohm in parallel to get 2.67ohms,as I know the calculation for same ohms speaker.2 speaker of 8ohms give a total impedance of 4ohms,
Thanks for the great information! You explain things so well. I tried to get into DIY speaker-building in 2000 but got frustrated and quit because I just couldn't get good answers to my questions. Now I am excited to try again!
Robert Burkey I'm so happy to hear that Robert! Feel free to ask any questions.
Hi, Im upgrading an instrument speaker system that includes an 8 ohm woofer connected to the low frequency tap of a 3 way passive crossover and an 8 ohm high frequency driver connected to the mid range tap. The crossover point i chose for this cabinet is 800hz . With both speakers connected to the crossovers I measured the load at the input with my multimeter and the reading was 7.2 ohms. Then I removed the 8 ohm high frequency driver and replaced it with a 16 ohm. I connected the multimeter again and the reading is still 7.2 ohms. I didnt expect that. The project is an old Leslie speaker cabinet designed for musical instruments, mainly for organs, and it has a 20 watt tube amp that is designed to drive an 8 ohm load. So after I installed the new speaker I hooked up a guitar to the cabinet and powered it up with the volume set at about 40%. It sounds great. No smoke or burning smells, no crazy fuzzy or crackling noises either. I didn’t find any indication of overheating that i could recognize so I turned the volume up to about 60% and continued to listen for noises and sniffing for any signs of trouble for about 2 minutes then I powered down. The transformers felt normal and cool to the touch. So, am i missing something? It still appears to be an 8 ohm load coming from the crossover. Does that make sense? Thanks
Great video! I always wondered how one can mix different ohms into one system - thanks!
Mike your welcome. I am glad this helped clarify that.
The only thing missing was when you make a crossover, you need to make the HP and LP seperate depending on the drivers used. In this instance calculate the crossover parts for the woofer at 8 ohms and the tweeter at 4 ohms. If you just use a crossover calculator and do not differentiate the ohms to driver spec, one of the drivers is going to not be crossed over that the frequency you thought it would be. IE an 8 ohms crossover @ 4000hz with a 4 ohms driver will actually be crossed at 2000hz. You will either end up with a frequency gap between the 2 way drivers, or a frequency duplication (which a duplication would be not too good for the amp if it happens that your nominal impedance goes below 3 ohms)
I am making some 3 way speakers with a woofer for lower bass and a 3" coaxial (time aligned) driver for upper bass, med and treble. It's a (five dollar) 3" full range driver with a madly thin cone (great transient response) and it's resisted a bit to take the load off it (except the top) with a 1.5 mf cap in parallel with the 6.8 ohm resistor and .22 inductor. And...(wait for it) there is another micro full range driver (stripped of it's cone) and stuck on the rear of the 3" FR driver. And a thin stick is glued to the micro FR voice coil tube and the stick runs through a (drilled) hole in the 3" FR driver. And the stick pokes out at the cone's center and a tiny foil "tizzer" is glued to the end of the thin stick. The tizzer is time aligned with the 3" driver's cone center. I have one complete speaker (in the box) basically made and the other should be finished in a day or two. It's a 3-way that looks like a 2-way and the boxes are semi omni (slanted drivers) and top (inverted pyramid) horns, it has nice directional and omnidirectional qualities. It blares when in front and also it's not "muffly" anywhere in the room.
But that's just the boxes, what really adds to the spacial sound is the coaxial point source sound. And the med is so resolving cos of the super thin cones and the extra treble extension of the coaxial is obvious compared to the FR drivers by themselves. I did it with piezo's once (years ago) and you basically can't hear anything come out of piezos (by themselves) but when you put them in a FR driver's throat LOOK OUT, you got treble! Just like full-on tweeters! But piezo's have a "cold" treble sound and on house, they sound "scratchy" (great on jazz though). I had to drill the FR drivers still, for the wires and support for the piezo, and when the FR driver cone "excurted" it had to miss the piezo. Only possible cos I found such small ones (rare piezos).
But now I'm REALLY HAPPY cos I can do it with coil drivers and it sounds way better than piezos and adds to the treble the same way and "stings" like crazy. And now I can play house and it sounds way awesome, not "scratchy". I'm listening to one, the one I just finished and it's the best speaker I have made. Better 3 way med with the small thin cone (instead of the 2-way thick heavy woofer cone) and the point source coaxial sound that goes way higher than the usual 12 kh of the 3" FR driver.
I can't do it with tweeters, cos I can't strip the domes. I can strip cone tweeters but they are a thing of the past, I'm afraid. And the tiny size of the stripped micro FR driver is pretty lightweight and the stick is micro thin without being too flexi. And the tizzer is a tear drop shape like < 1/4" big. And the hardest job (besides drilling the driver) is sticking the tizzer on the end of the stick. I have also experimented with lifting the 3" driver above the speaker box hole like on and angle and average of like 1/2" gap from the hole. And there is a 2" deep cardboard ring around the speaker hole, going 2" down into the box. That makes the 3" driver gap act as a bass vent. If you don't do it, the tone will be shocking with the speaker above the hole (and bonky bass).
The idea of the gap is to get amazing med sound, with more "openness" and "ambience" and the voice sound is more "live". There is also more treble from the FR driver (when it's semi open cone) and it's sweeter treble and goes up higher too. But it has to be choked (.3 mh) and the treble is pinched up with 1.5 mf cap. 1.5 sounds MAGIC with the cone semi open. It gets rid of that "chiffy" sound FR drivers can produce (noticeable with house, and especially with semi open cones) and the 1.5 cap makes the treble "sting". The extra treble coaxial unit has a 1 mf (ceramic) cap, whereas the 3" FR has the usual (electrolytic) tweeter cap. Why, cos it sounds better with this combination.
A complex issue explained with simplicity.... Newbies need to come to your channel to learn the basics. Great stuff. Thanks
Awesome tutorial
Thanks for posting this great information.. I've learned something new today! Keep up the good work!
Can i use a different brand tweeter with a different brand passive crossover?
Maybe I missed this in the video. I know you said you are using 3000 hz 2nd order crossover. Are you using one 2 way 2nd order 8 ohm crossover? Or one 2 way 2nd order 4 ohm? Or seperate one low pass 8 ohm crossover and one high pass 4 ohm crossover? Do you have a wiring diagram of this setup? Thank you.
thank you, no one else explained this...you helped me with replacing my blown tweeters....thanks a lot
You're welcome! Glad I could help
1. your amp should be able to deliver 4 and 8 ohm output.
2. You can use crossovers with H for 8 ohm and L for 4 ohm
It all depends on the amp and crossovers..
I am currently using two main channel and both the channel include 2 woofer 8+8ohm and 1 tweeter 8ohm.
So I designed crossovers accordingly. 8 ohm for tweeter and 4 ohm for two woofers.
I enjoyed the videos. I have a 3 way set of speakers I built with my father in 1975. The RadioShack tweeter went out and replaced with Morel Cat 378. I have a 2nd order 2000hz 8 ohm crossover on the tweeter, the woofer 12" full range speaker 50-11000hz with no crossover, the midrange 8" RadioShack 110Fs ( I was unable to find its freg range) and have a single Polycap 20uf, and the tweeter is 1800-22000Hz. There is a 2 1/4 front port. The speaker sounds pretty good but I am not sure I should do a band pass on the midrange. Since using the Morel the speakers are more sensitive to poor cd or album recording quality's sometimes sounding a little harsh. The receiver is a Marantz 2250B. Any suggestions ideas? Thanks for your time and help Dave
Needed this!
I have 8 ohm speakers - jbl arena 180 , can I use them together with 6 ohm center?
How to know the power handling of the combination with crossover ?
if i parallel my 8 ohms tweeter (capacitor) to my 8 ohms woofer is still still consider as 8 ohms not 4 ohms?
hi brill vid can i link a 8 ohm bin to a 2 15'' 4ohm speaker or would i have to use a xover can you help please
OK so i have a 8 ohm woofer and 2, 8 ohm tweeters wired in parallel (4 ohms) wired to a 8 ohm crossover. Am I good with this?
Super stuff, all makes good sense; many thanks. I the system you modelled the gain level after the crossover is higher than before, will this still sound ok? Thanks again UKBob
Thanks a lot for the info. I just want to know when designing a 3 way speaker build, when doing the crossover on the design and using a 2 channel stereo Amp do you only use 1 channel on the Amp or should you use both? Should you connect the woofer on one channel with its separate crossover and the mid and tweeter on the other channel with their crossover.
Is it possible for two 8 ohms tweeter in series config and connect it to 8 ohms instrumental speaker in parallel config what is the equal ohms of this combination. I have a stereo amp that supports 8 to 16 ohms is it all good or bad for the speaker and amp?
Yeah mate, you should be just fine
Only thing is, don't use a 8 ohm tweeter if the original speakers' crossover was designed for a 4 ohm tweeter. Using an 8 ohm in that case will change/lower the crossover point and damage your tweeter. Correct?
Did you make that excel sheet calculator or it available online??? It looks like such a good learning tool. Thank you so much for explaining this in such an easy to follow way, this helped me in school to understand several concepts in AC circuits.
This is a free Excel spreadsheetthat you can download. I have the download link in my video called five tools every speaker builder needs. If you check out that video, you should see the link there.
so, in essence, the load that the amp sees with an 8-ohm woofer and a 4-ohm tweeter with the 2-way crossover is still 8 ohm?
Yes. It would be considered an 8ohm nominal load.
@@Toid How about a 4ohm speaker and a 8ohm tweeter, would it be the same? What kind of crossover should be used for different impedances? Thank you
@@felipeprado2103 that is a great question. You can always go up, as it's much easier for the amplifier to drive
What about 2 8 ohm woofers with a 4 ohm tweeter, will the fianl through a 2 way crossover only be 2 ohm? Wanting to put 2 woofers as mids in a door with a tweeter and run all 3 on one channel.
Fantastic! Hi dude. Can you recomend a fairly shallow 2 way or 3 way speaker that sounds great at low volume, It is for tv, so detailed voices are a must. Passive. Thanx.
thanks for clearing that up for me.
How can I thank you for this? Every single word till the end was the most helpful thing I've come across regarding speaker building. You deserve more subscribers and just got yourself one more. Cheers from Pakistan!
What about the reverse, a 4 ohm woofer with an 8 ohm tweeter, or in a four way design with an 8 ohm woofer, 4 ohm midwoofer, and 8 ohm midrange and tweeter? These are the parts I have laying around an I want to do something with them. I could go with two 4 ohm midwoofers, mounted at an angle to aid in dispersion or a Midwoofer, midrange, Tweeter and Midwoofer arrangement. What’s the best way to use these drivers?
in my experience it's OK to connect the tweeter paralell with the midrange/bass driver , just feed the tweetwr through a10 uF capacitor, and you will be fine.enjoy!
I have my mid/tweeter MTM module hooked up this way in my custom made work toolbox system and it sounds AMAZING
Finally, I got answer that doubt me so long. Great Video!
I have a 4 ohm woofer and an 8 ohm tweeter, is that ok?
Am planning to make a 4 way speaker build, it was supposed to be 3 way, .. but the crossover i finally chose as a HF point of 3k, which is low for the AMT... So i thought I'll use a soft dome ... And add another 2 way custom 2nd order LR crossover for tweeters of 8ohm and 4 ohm.. so now Woofer is 4 ohm, mid is 8 and tweeter and tweeter are 8 and 4, is this feasible?
Can i connect an 8ohm 250 watts woofer and 4ohm 100 watts tweeter with only a capacitor?
+1! Can we get an answer
What frequency will the capacitor cross it over at?
CRiVEN Let’s say the tweeter came with the capacitor, will that work or should I put it on that separate channels?
Marlon Jimenez sure, I believe that would work! If it’s a capacitor that’s designed to cross over the tweeter it should be fine. But if it’s just to protect from amplifier pop in a bi-amped system, I’d be more wary of using it as your crossover. Also, make sure it can handle the wattage you’re sending to it
I bought 6 ohm fronts and an 8 ohm sub. My receiver (Yamaha Rx-v592) only does 4 or 8 ohms. Should i return the fronts?
is there any wattage on the passive cross over to match the wattage on the amp???
Sir , I have a 6 ohm 10 watts woofer and 4 speakers of 4 ohm and 5 watts respectively. So how do I connect them to get a better sound
Ok so that explanation was perfect. But i have a question i cant seem to find an answer for so hopefully you can explain this to me?
So it relates to the power split of the drivers. In a 3 way speaker that has a subwoover, a mid range and a tweeter, how does a 50 watt input get divided? Im yrying to pick the woofers for a design like that but im not sure what rms they need to handle. Does the power get equally split by the two woofers and the tweeter get a fraction of that? So in that scinario both woofers need an rms of at least 25-30?
The lower in frequency you get, the more energy is required to reproduce that frequency. That’s why you see 1000w subwoofers, but nobody is putting 1000w straight into a dome tweeter. Your subwoofer will take the most, your midwoofers will usually take less than the subwoofer depending on where you’re crossing it over, your tweeter doesn’t use too too much.
Hi, can you pls tell me which tweeter can i use with Harman Kardon AVR160? Thanks
Hello, thank you for the information, I appreciate It. Do you know any group or website that is dedicated to DIY speakers ? I want to start getting into, I don't understand a lot but maybe with support from people who does I can someday build my own speaker. 🙂
www.toidsdiyaudio.com/forums 😁
So you said that I can use a 6 0hm tweeter and a 4 ohm mid as long as I use an 8 ohm woofer? this is correct so how is that Cerwin Vega uses 4 ohm woofers too and get that 8 Ohms on the three way systems? Thank you
my vintage amp uses two (one for each channel) STK-0080 power
amplifier paks, and they are rated at wpc rms into 8 ohms with no more than .09THD.
I was told to better use 8 ohm speakers and not use 4 ohm speakers due to driving em too hard for too long..the stk's burn up.
BTW: I do not understand this laboratory talk.
Okay, I am upgrading speakers on an old Boombox I found to try to get it to sound better. Here is my setup:
I have a tiny 2 channel amp which produces 10 watts RMS at 8 ohms, or 20 watts RMS at 4 Ohms. It is a two channel amp.
I wanted to use budget parts, so at Parts Express I found a nice 4 ohm 20 watt RMS full range speaker, and wanted to pair it with a 6 ohm 10-watt tweeter.
Can I run each midrange and Tweeter in parallel without a crossover, or do I need a crossover? I'm not running that much power, and I thought the Tweeter would be protected.
What do you think?
FEMA Region 9 short answer is no, you should not run it that way. That's a sure way to blow your tweeter. However, a simple 1st order crossover on each speaker along with a resistor to attenuate the tweeter should be enough. That's 3 parts in total and probably less than $6 a speaker or $12 total.
123Toid thanks for answering. I totally agree with you but didn't know where to start when trying to do this. I ended up calling Parts Express and spoke to one of their people, who actually guided me to crossover frequencies.com and walked me through the process of identifying the exact components I would need to accomplish this. A very interesting experience. Thanks a lot, I'm glad you and others have RUclips channels so people like me can continue learning. Keep up the great work!
123Toid one more question. Like I said I'm doing this to an old school Boombox. If I'm using a small separate amp built into the cabinet, what do I use as the input signal? Do I use the output from the stereo that goes to the speakers and feed it into the amp? Or, do I tap into the headphone output and run that as the signal source for the amp? If I use the headphone jack, I lose the ability to fade from left to right.
FEMA Region 9 tap into the headphone jack. Or find the source on the board itself. The speaker outs are amplified, so you don't want to use those.
123Toid thanks again for the quick response. That's kind of what I thought, but wanted to ask someone who knew better. I'll look for the outputs first on the board, if I have a problem locating them then I'll just use the headphone jack output.
Hello there. I have somewhat of a simple question? I want to change the tweeters in my ( Premier Acoustic PA 8.12 ) loud speakers and they're both rated at 4 ohms, but the tweeters (Polk Audio DB1001) are made for a vehicle application. My question is will this setup harm the crossover inside the speakers ? My speakers are rated at 200 to 400 watts and the tweeters are rated at 60 watts, 180 peak and both are set at 4 ohms. Thanks in advance.😇👍👍👍
It won't hurt the crossover. But there's no guarantee that it'll sound good or the way you want it to.
So if I am using 3 8ohm mid bass and 2 4ohm tweeters with 3.3 if 100v bipolar bass blocker / crossover would that be a 2.66666 ohm? I’m doing the 3 mid bass and 2 tweeters on each side
Wiring two 4 ohm woofers in parallel and adding one 4 ohm tweeter in series with a crossover to one of those woofers, does the amp see a 2 ohm or 4 ohm load from the tweeter?
I am going to ask, is it safe to use lets say a 600w woofer and obviously a lower watt tweeter on the same power supply without damaging the tweeter at higher power levels as you said? or will I need something that regulates the power to the tweeter?
Also, the resistors and such, they all have very low rated wattage, I'm assuming you don't have to match there wattage to the wattage your running to the woofer? seems odd..
That is a good question that requires a lot of explaining and more information provided. However, the simplest answer is, no. This is one of the main reasons manufacturers like Definitive Technology, Golden Ear and even Polk Audio have built speakers with powered subwoofers in the same cabinet.
Thanks for the quick reply :) and one more thing, would it be simpler to just have a different power Input on the back of the speaker for the tweeters then the input for the woofers, and a set of different amplifiers running just the tweeters along with a dedicated high pass crossover for the tweeter,.. if that makes sense?
You're Welcome. Typically you wouldn't use a 600w woofer alone with a tweeter. Woofers, usually do not have have the capability to go high enough to crossover with a tweeter. There are exceptions (such as PA speakers), but for home audio, you would be using a midrange to crossover with a tweeter. And the mid would not need nearly that much power. When talking about a 600w woofer, you are typically talking about a subwoofer which rarely are used above 200hz.
Power consumption increases by a factor of 4 for each octave you go DOWN in frequency (and, conversely, it requires only on fourth the same amount of power as go up an octave) If you need 100 watts of RMS to deliver a sine wave at 90 dBs of SPL at 80 Hz, you need only 25 watts to deliver an equal level at 160 Hz and 8 watts at 320, etc.
i have a bluetooth speaker harman kardon play 2 and the speaker is blown out,i read the specs of the harman kardon and it says Input Impedance250mV/>10k ohms..the original blown out speaker was 4 ohms my question is can I replace it with an 8ohm rated speaker from the specs it have? Thanks
What about 3 way? And I know running a 4 ohm amp @ 2 ohms is bad...what about 16 ohm speaker on a 4 ohm amp?
You can't define such thing as "4 ohm" amplifier. Amplifier is composed in two or mostly three stages which provide voltage and/or current amplification and impedance matching. Driving higher impedance loads is not a problem since the current gain would be lower which translates in less current and heat disipated by the transistors. Theoretically the "4ohm" amp, that can dissipate 100W of power driving a 4ohm load, can dissipate only 25W driving the 16ohm load.
can i use Peerless by Tymphany XT25BG60-04 1" Dual Ring Radiator Tweeter with Eminence PXB:5K0 High Pass Crossover Board 5,000 Hz
I'm considering building a set of components speakers... 4ohm 300wrms 6.5 mids and a set of 8ohm 500wrms 2" super tweeters on a Hifonics Gladiator 100.4 watts 4ohm amp... Would this be a great setup or should I just look to piece together a 4ohm component set instead???
I'm not familiar with those components, sorry.
LawBr8ker depends on how it's wired, parallel or series wiring.
Great video! My question is... How to connect two 4ohm speakers with crossover that my final load is 8 ohm?
Im using 4ohm woofer and 4ohm tweeter!
Two 4 ohm drivers? Like a tweeter and a mid? That can't be done with a crossover for the reasons mentioned in the video. You can hook up two 4ohm mids or woofers and wire them in series after the crossover to get an 8ohm load.
Thanks for answerning my question, connecting two 4ohm driver in series i get a 8 ohm... i understand that... Than the crossover also need to be connected in serie or not?
@@p3ras1983 I think you are misunderstanding. A 4 ohm tweeter and midwoofer will not equal 8ohms if there is a crossover. However, if you are using two 4 ohm woofers or midwoofer and a tweeter, they (the woofers or mid) will be wired in series after the crossover network to equal 8 ohm. The crossover network wiring does not matter.
Now i understand...thank you very much. Btw very good chanal, very informative, keep with good work!
I spent much time boiling over what will happen when I re-cone my originally 7.5 ohm blown woofer with a new voice coil that measures in at 6.5 ohm. This video literally took less than 10 mins to tell me Im overthinking the situation and not to worry. SO thank you!
Since most amp's can handle 4ohm i don't see a problem here.
Some times it even is needed to do so. Im currently working on a studio quality 2way speaker that can play pretty loud and low. I will use a 10" 8ohm low and wavecor 30mm tweeter in the waveguide and 4ohm version. it can cross VERY low! I will cross it at 1,1khz.
The 10" makes about 92-93db at 2,83V wich is 1watt at 8ohm's and the tweeter would only do about 90db at that in the 8ohm version. So i MUST use the 4ohm version wich makes 93db at 2,83V.
I'm brand new at this speaker building stuff, and I'm watching your vids over and over trying to let the info sink in. But, I'm still a little confused as to impedance vs crossover construction. If I use the soft ware and construct a proper 3 way, I really only have to worry about the largest woofer for over all impedance of the speaker?
Crash 709 Whatever speaker plays the lowest notes will typically be you're nominal impedance is.
But be careful! Don't make crossovers that will go under 3ohm's at some spots.
if I have a jbl 3 way crossover and the impedance are a little off can I use it all the replacements are 4 ohm the and it was 3.5 ohm 3.2ohm 3.6ohm
Beieve it or not, all of those are probably 4 ohm speakers, so they should work just fine.
Thank You !
@ 123Toid.... Hi. This is my question from your 'The Reveal' video.....Once you add the 8 ohm resistor (Attenuation) in series to the 4 ohm Tweeter, would the amp now see this as a 12 ohm load (since you’ve not used a 2 pole series and parallel resistor L-pad). What will be the calculation for the high pass capacitor. Will you calculate based on 4 ohm load or 12 ohm load.
The crossover is still based off the 4 ohm tweeter. THe resistor is resisting (attenuating) the amount of power going to the tweeter. This lowers the volume of the tweeter to an acceptable lever compared to the other drivers (ie the midrange). But it has no effect on the crossover frequency at all.
, fantastic information, thanks !!!
i have a bookshelf speaker with 6ohms impedance not bi amp capable,my question is can i replace the tweter with a 4ohms impedance? thanks
You sure can, but I think it would ruin the sound
Very good video
This is an interesting field, i would like to know more and learn more... I what to build my own home theater speakers, im a very good wood worker but lake the technical knowledge about crossovers, what speakers to choose, how to mach speakers. My knowledge is a bit higher than average person but for my it's not enough!
It's not as hard as you would think. But it isn't simple either. Anyone can make great sounding speakers if they like and look good as well. I am dedicating this channel to electronics building and main speaker building. Feel free to check out my other videos. One of the keys key to a great sounding speaker is making a proper crossover. Here is a link to all the videos in the crossover design series. It uses all free software: ruclips.net/p/PL6hjpiCHZmIPx3itPeTt7zoSqNY20OQqV
Check out Parts Express for some great speakers as well. Feel free to subscribe for updates.
123Toid Thanks, I will check your ather videos.
I've been dreaming about building them for 1, 2 years now lol
Time to get the job done lol
I have a question that you kinda answered but not completely. As we know, most speakers have usually a more powerful woofer in wattage that the tweeter. How do we know how many watts our tweeter should be if we have a 500 watt woofer for example? I know that we need to match them at decibels but is this the only thing?
How the crossover sends the right amount of power to the tweeter and not blowing it up? I mean, in a speaker with a 500watt woofer we need a 500watt or more amplifier. Obviously, the power contribution between the woofer and the tweeter is not 50-50 but how is it? Sorry for the long question and thanks in advance
That's a little more complicated to answer than you would think. It all depends on the crossover slope (order) and frequency in which it is crossed over at. This is one of the reasons crossing you need to be careful of crossing over a tweeter too early. Here is a chart for at least a 2nd order crossover: www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/multi-way/52292d1130223767-power-distribution-fane-gif and you can also check out this for a 3 way: www.silcom.com/~aludwig/EARS.htm#Soft_sounds_and_loud_sounds
I have a 6 ohm tweeter, 8 ohms woofer and 8 ohm crossover. what's the difference if i had a 8ohm tweeter? thank you!
It doesn't matter when u use 4ohm tweeter and 8ohm woofer with 8ohm amplifier ......
If u have 100 watt per channel amplifier .... That doesn't mean all 100 watt go through both woofer and tweeter ......
But actual is .....
Woofer required higher watts of power ( depeny on voice coil length diameter turns , cone areas )
At that watts woofer ohm must be nominally equal to amplifier ohm ( 8ohm woofer to 8 ohm amp )
Same way
Tweeter not required so much watts power ( which mean is has smaller voice coil length diameter , very small cone )
At that low watts any ohm tweeter is run on any ohm amplifier ...... because tweeter have attenuation on Xover
Simply. U can run 8ohm woofer with 4 ohm tweeter ....😀 .....but woofer ohm is must be equal to amplifier ohm ...
So if I wire a 2.5" full range 4 ohm 10 watt speaker and a 6" full range 4 ohm 15 watt speaker in series, it's an 8 ohm load right?
If there is no crossover. If you cross them over, it will still be 4 ohm.
No crossover, I'm just interested in using up a couple sets of 4 ohm speakers I have collecting dust to build a couple 8 ohm cabinets strictly for midrange.
Thanks for the upload, and thanks for the reply. Liked and subscribed.
Hello Toid!, My name is Franz and I have big question i know you can answer easily.
1 year ago i got a 4 channel amplifier capable of 75 W rms per channel at 4 ohm and 100 W rms at 2 ohm per channel.
I hooked up 4 coaxial full range speakers of 4 ohm (One per channel). The problem was
i was lacking of highs. So i am thinking about adding extra tweeters to my system by putting
them in parallel with the coaxial speakers with their respective crossover (crossover only for the
tweeters because the coaxial are full range(they have mid bass and tweeter)).
Is that solution ok, or is it wrong? (For example: 4 ohm coaxial in parallel to 4 ohm tweeter per
channel: So the amplifier is gonna see 2 ohm per channel, so my max power per channel
is going to be 100 W rms) Mathematically i know, the impedance is not linear in the
frequency axis and the coaxial is gonna request more power than the extra tweeter butttt....
And here is another question, if i turn up the volume slowwwwly,
how i know when my amplifier or tweeter is gonna blow up or start clipping?
Post data: My neighbor has an oscilloscope hehehe.
My actual system is: (JBL 600Wrms 4ohm mono amp ==> subwoofer Rockford P3 600Wrms 4ohm)
(Rockford prime amp r400-d4 ==> 4 coaxial speakers = Rockford T1650)
(in the future ==> one new amp for adding only midrange woofer and bullet tweeter)
yes
Speaker NOOB here.
S.O.S. please.
Samsung HTX40 is my main amp unit, if it helps.
I'm thinking of replace my five 3 Ohm surround speakers (Samsung PS-FX40) because one fell the other day in a worried haste and I can't seem to open it to poke around to see if I can fix some simple loosened wire. Crap.
I feel like an idiot gorilla shaking this closed black box.
My subwoofer is 3ohm.
I found a 5 set of 6 Ohm Yamaha NS-840 speakers (w/o subwoofer) for sale.
Can I match those together successfully without doing surgery?
Humbly out of my depth and kindly submitted.
dude, is that exel file sharable? looks really neat
What will happen if i put a 6 ohms speaker to a 4 ohms speaker?
Thanks Toid, second time watching this and now I get it lol, cheers 🙂👍
It's about power distribution, not power dissipation. There is very little music content over 3KHz compared to under 3KHz.
And the opposite?? 6 ohm woofer and 12 ohm tweeter? Its the same?
And if i just use a capacitor on the tweeter
Yes
Spot on. Will not be looking anymore for answers on this matter. Thanks a lot !!!
Thanks for great videos, I'm learning a lot...
Having bought some speakers with blown tweeters I replaced them with bullet tweeters, The tweeters are 4ohm but the bass drivers are 8ohm fitted with two way crossovers which I also replaced (the crossovers had blown) Now the tweeters sound much more louder than the bass drivers. I have changed the crossover frequency but no differance at all, 2k 2.5k 3k and 4k. Is there an easy way to level the output without replacing the tweeters for 8ohm ones ? or is it because bullet tweeters are louder anyway ?
eugene o'neal it sounds like you need an l-pad. If you look that up, it's a way to attenuate your tweeters down to match the level of your woofer
Thanks! That helps a lot!
can u please make a box for me why would people want a 8ohm speaker all amps are 4 ohm
A lot of home amplifiers are 8ohm. So people want it for that.
Can I use a 4ohm woofer with a 8ohm reciver?
Now that is a great question! Typically you should not use a speaker that is not rated for your receiver. However, i use my Reveal speakers (4 ohm) and my DIY Dayton Soundbar (4 ohm) with my Pioneer Elite receiver only rated at 8 ohms. Most receivers have an auto shut off if they get too hot. of course, you are hoping that fail safe actually works. Some of that comes to the fact, that I am not using much power for them, which makes it much easier on the receiver.
So the only downside is the heat? cuz i have seen people running car subwoofers 4 ohms running with stereo or surround amplifiers which are 100+ wpc ... any thought?
thank you!!
The sensitivity of an 8 ohm is less than that of a 4 ohm driver in most cases.
It doesn't matter when u use 4ohm tweeter and 8ohm woofer with 8ohm amplifier ......
If u have 100 watt per channel amplifier .... That doesn't mean all 100 watt go through both woofer and tweeter ......
But actual is .....
Woofer required higher watts of power ( depend on voice coil length diameter turns , cone areas )
At that watts woofer ohm must be nominally equal to amplifier ohm ( 8ohm woofer to 8 ohm amp )
Same way
Tweeter not required so much watts power ( which mean is has smaller voice coil length diameter , very small cone )
At that low watts any ohm tweeter is run on any ohm amplifier ...... because tweeter have attenuation on Xover
Simply. U can run 8ohm woofer with 4 ohm tweeter ....😀 .....but woofer ohm is must be equal to amplifier ohm ...
In power figure of 100watt / ch amp ...
In typical 2 way .... 12 db/ octave Xover @2.5k
30% or below power used in tweeter
70% or below power useed in woofer
As Xover point increase and slop order increase ..... Tweeter power handling decrease ....
I've heard people say 4 ohm speakers make more bass. I think that's ridiculous and unfounded.
ok thanks. so this brings the impedance of the tweeter up to a nominal 8 ohm too? sorry this just flew by me.
, complicated stuff !!!
Sooo the Tweeter isn't going to be too quiet although it's half the impedance of the woofer?
That is correct. You have to compensate for ti. but often tweeters have such a high sensitivity, that you are usually attenuating them down to match the woofer.
The lower the impedance the more power the amplifier can deliver to the coil, so the less ohm the louder it may sound. wich means a 4 ohm tweeter would sound louder on the same volume level on an amp than an 8 ohm would wich means the tweeter would be louder with the 8 ohm mid than for instance an 8 ohm tweeter with an 8 ohm mid.
if I gave you like 15 free drivers and some crossovers would u build me 2 monitors
Send me a private message on instagram, patreon or twitter.
123Toid don't have Instagram but I guess I could sign up or if u had an email
The best woofer in the world for $30. lol If you want to PAY, look no further than the Feastrex top 8" full range drivers (not even coaxials) and they cost 70 grand a pair (just the drivers). lol
STILL CONFUSED WHY FOLKS SAY "THANK YOU"? FOR WHAT - BLA BLA BLA LECTURING...
ABSOLUTELY NOT HELPFUL!!!
THE QUESTION WAS -CAN I REPLACE TWEETER IF IT HAS A DIFFERENT IMPEDANCE IN A 3-WAY SPEAKERS SYSTEM?
YES OR NO!!! THAT'S IT!!!
Put really simply, a 4 ohm tweeter is going to be too loud for an 8 ohm woofer. But it also depends on the sensitivity of each driver, so what I said is just an average tendency.
every video out there says that phrase ''i got a lot of questions'' from nobody....
why are you here then?
Impedance isn't measured with a ohm meter because it uses DC battery
my vintage amp uses two (one for each channel) STK-0080 power
amplifier paks, and they are rated at wpc rms into 8 ohms with no more than .09THD.
I was told to better use 8 ohm speakers and not use 4 ohm speakers due to driving em too hard for too long..the stk's burn up.
BTW: I do not understand this laboratory talk.
lower ohm = more current. So your amplifier is probably not designed to deliver enough current. Most home speakers are 6 or 8 ohm. Keep in mind some speakers can dip very low to 3 ohm, or in rare cases lower.
my vintage amp uses two (one for each channel) STK-0080 power
amplifier paks, and they are rated at wpc rms into 8 ohms with no more than .09THD.
I was told to better use 8 ohm speakers and not use 4 ohm speakers due to driving em too hard for too long..the stk's burn up.
BTW: I do not understand this laboratory talk.