BEFORE YOU REPLACE THE ENTIRE VALVE COVER, READ THIS! First of all, excellent video! The mechanic mentioned that he didn't work with Mini's, so no fault to him at all. But being a Mini owner you'll notice in the video that the oil cap isn't installed properly causing the vacuum leak (as he mentioned). I've had this exact problem, which caused the same shaking. When the oil cap is installed properly the "oil lamp" logo will be perfectly positioned horizontally (as if the lamp was sitting on a flat table). In the video the lamp was screwed on too far making it go vertical. This is most likely because the rubber washer was lost when the cap was re-installed. This happened to me when I had some one else change my oil. You'll also notice that he had a hard time taking the oil cap off. This happened to me as well. That's because without the rubber washer on it the cap will turn too far making it like a puzzle to take off. Also, you'll notice that when the new valve cover (that included a new oil cap) was installed the oil cap was in the correct position. I'm not saying it didn't need a valve cover. But I am saying that it definitely needed a new oil cap, or at least a new oil cap washer. It would be better to try replacing the oil cap first before replacing the entire valve cover. You might find that's all it needed. I hope this helps!
Thanks, I just bought this mini, running rough and blowing out same black out of exhaust. But they just replaced the valve cover a month earlier, when I went to check oil I couldn’t get cap off, had to use pliers. I’m going back to check for the rubber seal.
@@armhodeanapple6188 Yeah, no pliers should be needed. If the oil lamp symbol isn't perfectly horizontal when snug it's not on there right. The lack of rubber gasket allows it go turn past horizontal, and also makes it much harder to remove the cap.
Yes and no. Being mobile you can only do so much. Also a lot of time is burned unloading and loading your tools/equipment at job sites, crawling under cars, and driving all over town to pick up parts for repairs, or driving to different job sites. Oh and God forbid you have a comeback, or a warranty job. That will completely ruin your schedule. Also, having a shop means folks' property stays in your hands. Useful for when you have those ppl who are slow, or reluctant to pay... Source? I was mobile for 4 years before I opened my shop. We all do it eventually. With a shop you work smarter not harder, and your income potential is higher.
That used to be a common problem on late model GM 4 cyl engines. The upper (pcv) manifold part would crack and BOOM! Lean codes and high positive fuel trims. Nice work!
Nice work, sir - and you kept it "actual" as you thought-through the possibilities. 'So much more informative than those that film everything, then edit-backwards to make themselves look more clever...versus realistic as variables present themselves!
My R56’s idle would have misfires after the engine warmed. Replaced coil pack, plugs then rebuilt PVC, all to no avail. Replaced engine cover with new PVC. Still no change. Finally checked vacuum lines. They had oil in them. Removed the oil and idle went back to normal.
I had a rear main leak on my Tundra. Just decided to keep adding oil every month and live with it. Did some research on RUclips and someone mentioned doing multiple rear main seals on a tundra. They said it was the PCV valve sticking and not allowing pressure to relieve in the crankcase. Changed my PCV valve for like less than $20 problem solved. It's been a few years now and rear main is still dry.
Commenting to give credit, this video gave me the info I needed to diagnose and fix the problem. New valve cover fixed the issue! Thanks for the video.
Great video. Same exact problem on Wives Buick Encore with the 1-4 engine. It's built (PVC) right into it. The days of buying the $4 PCV valve & pulling it out with needle nose pliers is over. As usual it's more complex than it needs to be
I think you can get that PCV valve as a single part, too. At least as aftermarket part. There's a membrane in there that is prone to rupture. There are videos on how to replace it. (The OEM surely wants to sell you the whole cover) Edit: Yeah, you can buy only the membrane as a replacement part for like $15 on eBay.
Thank you so much for this video replaced the head gasket on my 2006 mini cooper s and gave up on it for about 2 months because it couldn’t keep idle after putting it together all for this to be the problem when I got motivation to work on it again
Most manufacturers don't sell valve cover gasket separate nowadays b'coz as a rule of thumb - the gasket leaks as it reached its end of life, the pcv valve has also reached near its end of life. Hence sell them as a set of new valve cover and gasket...
Pretty cool to see these engines in the US have a air flow meter. In europe these engines are used in mini, peugeot en Citroën but they never have a mass air flow meter there only using a intake presssure sensor.
I had the same issue with my gf’s car. You don’t have to replace the whole cover, you can buy a replacement membrame with spring and top pcv cover for around 40 bucks from ecstuning. And it’s incredibly easy to replace aswell
Being a Mini One owner of the same vintage, I instantly noticed that the oil cap was not in the correct position. It should lock properly when the symbol is nicely horizontal.
Those are notorious for burning oil. I did my daughter’s last summer since it used a quart of oil every 400 miles. It took a lot of cleaning in the head and piston rings. If you don’t catch the low oil they will start rattling pretty good and jump timing due to a loose timing chain. Also timing chain guides like to break too and lots of other gremlins. Vamps on intake and exhaust and the good ole Valvetronic on the intake.
Hey bud good catch but not 100% sure you had a bad valve cover, versus just a failed valve cover gasket. I work on these cars for a living, just wanted to share that these crankcase systems will cause lean idle faults if a gasket or seal is leaking. As the engine *sucks air around the failed gasket or seal* .This is an unmetered air flow and results in a lean condition.The valve cover is pricey. Last thing you want to do is sell a customer a $480.00 valve cover, when your $15.00 front main seal leaking was the culprit.😩🤭. MINI wants you to remove the oil cap and use a manometer to measure engine vacuum levels at the valve cover. This is how you test the crankcase valve. What many of us do is take an oil cap and modify it with a npt nipple so we can hook up and take the appropriate readings. On non-turbo applications you should never exceed 36 mBar. Simply removing the oil cap with the engine running is a bad test because there is supposed to be *some* vacuum there. The crankcase valve's job is to create a controlled vacuum leak as it helps expel pressure from the crankcase. It can only do that if all the engine seals and gaskets are in good shape. On the topic of fuel trims BMW uses additive fuel trims (AFT) and multiplicative fuel trims (MFT). Additive trims give you a definition of what is happening to keep the engine running stoichiometric at idle. Multiplicative trims are your readings at part throttle, or engine under load. The difference between AFT/MFT vs the more popular short/long term fuel trims are a calculation of injector on time not exhaust content. This reading is provided in ms or mg/stroke. So say for example you have very positive AFT's, a reading of like +7.0ms. This could indicate a lean at idle condition as the computer has commanded the injectors to stay on for 7 milliseconds longer. There is one final important detail to note with AFT/MFT and that is how the computer calculates injector on time. Two main components are used: the MAF and the oxygen sensor reading *after* the catalyst. The reason for this is because the MAF is the very first reading or obstacle the air charge comes in contact with before the engine, and the post cat oxygen sensor is the reading of air after it has exited the final component in the emissions system. Understanding that logic, the technician can now begin the process of elimination through diagnosis.
I do a lot of these. We dn't have that much Mini's in Serbia but it's the same engine in Peugeots (don't think you even heard of Peugeot, but anyway identical engine, even factory data PID-s are the same). Actually in USA you can buy just a membrane with that small cover and little spring that fits inside, you don't need to buy the whole valve cover. There are several sources in USA. I live in Serbia and it's much more difficult to buy one as delivery rates are ridiculously expensive. Common mistake that people make with this engine when it comes to ''repair'' this PCV to stop oil consumption, is to simply unplug that hose and put a cap to it. That way (and I don't know the theory behind this) they screw up oil pressure which causes damage to the cylinder head pretty quickly. When that happen there is no other option but to replace the whole head as almost nothing on it can be repaird.
I would only think plugging the pcv tube both ways will disable the engine from relieving excess pressure building up at the bottom end which will lead to engine seals failure - offcourse this excess pressure would only build at higher loads not idle- Great info by the way.
@@nemanjadzombic6101 You're right, seems the N18 engines have GDI with the infamous dirty intake valves...Eric The Car Guy has a good video on this issue.
Great Content! I am a pro at this, but most folks are scared to learn schematics or use any kind of meters, Good job showing the folks what it takes, I hope your channel grows, use to work for ram dealership, They are the shotgun pros, parts changers
As far as crankcase vacuum, I've had other people say there should be a significant vacuum at the filler cap. Which is it, I know you don't want pressure there?
This is likely a problem I’m having. Just replaced water pump, crossover pipe, which cheap Chinese one broke in less than a year(50k) and a new metal thermostat housing.. it had a separate sensor built into the plastic ones, cannot find a replacement in case that one fails however… but tbd. Everything installed, put back together, and still have issues. It fired up, but then when I went to give some gas, rough idle started and then it really glugs and chugs at about 5-600 rpm, I shut it off within 30 seconds as this just feels like it is ruining things. I’ve had many cars idle jump around. This is different. And I feel like it’s vacuum related, as I’ve had experience with this car running awful, until all vacuum connections were firmly secured.. I made sure this time to do so.. but I also attempted to clean my valve cover, and sprayed it down with brake cleaner as it was all I had on hand.. feel like neither dried the valve, or something cause I simply cannot see an issue. I want to test my water pump and thermostat to be sure they are working, but I can’t run my engine like this to test that. Frustrating.
Depending how long she drove like that , i would have checked the oil for contamination. Gotta love how bolts loosen when the engines running, evidenced by the bolt on the air box. Maybe left hand threads are better.
Just a friendly thought.... You might want to actually check the specs on that engine and what kind of crankcase VACUUM should be present at idle. All newer Mini and BMW engines have a closed loop PCV and pull vacuum at idle and part load with some pulling up to 30in.hg at idle. The spec for a N16 engine is around 36mBar or 19in.hg. so without actually measuring the PCV system via the oil filler cap your are taking a guess at best and if the engine is pulling excessive crankcase vacuum.
I am having very similar issues with my 2009 n14 turbo engine. I’m going to change the pcv cover to see if that makes a difference. Been chasing miss fire issues maybe this will help
Interesting video. Brother-in-law had one that loss power but never quit running. Just no power. Shop place on computer and indicate that the radio was bad. Bunch of heads being cracked. Car went to another dealer, more head scratching. Mechanic brought in from Germany. Engine Torn down finding nothing wrong with engine and reinstall and retest on computer. Again indicate that the radio was bad. What was discovered was the radio has a receiver that connects to a Satellite that updates the Vehicles computer. Amagine that! With the receiver the radio out and the computer not updating , Vehicle would not run properly. So a new radio was installed and guess what. Yep, problem solved. Run like a Scolded dog that was fed with the right information. So the pc first Diagnose the problem correctly and a master Mechanic couldn't. Brother-in-law not long afterward got rid of any further problems with the Mini co-op. This is how I remember it going on with that car. But like your problem solution and what led you to correcting the problem correctly. Great job will done.
the valve is there to give low vacuum at low revs and high vacuum at high revs, when it goes wrong it gives high vacuum all the time, on the 16v 4 cylinder Vauxhall's you know when this valve has gone because it gives you a James bond smoke screen at high revs, it will suck the sump dry.
My 2012 has a long term fuel trim around 65 at idle but goes down to zero while cruising on highway. I took off the oil cap and did not feel the suction that was in this video, but when I took off that PVC hose and plugged it with my thumb, the long term instantly went from 65 to 35 and my short term immediately went to -25. Does this sound like the PCV valve even though I don't have the suction on the oil cap? As a DIYer, I find your videos very educational. Thank you.
Leave it to german engineers to make you replace the valve cover just for the pcv valve. If that part failed on my Accent you could just unscrew the pcv valve from the side of the valve cover like it's a lightbulb.
I believe ecstuning sells the diaphragm and spring separate, don't quote me on that. But it's not worth it cause plastic valve covers crack over time with all the heat cycling.
Your vehicle is probably older because pretty much all late model vehicles use a *crankcase vent valve* which is commonly built into the VC and not serviced separately. Some vehicles can have the diaphragm serviced separately, but not all. MINI's unfortunately, requires a whole new VC.
Mini r56 cooper s with n18 engine. Reporting P0302, 2efe, 2f00, 2ee2, 2ee9. I can see in diagnostics most of the misfires are on cylinder 2 and maybe few on other cylinders. This only happens first time in the morning when starting with cold engine, after that it's ok. I've changed sparkplugs and rotated coils but it's still reporting cylinder 2 misfire. I've tried injector cleaning additive in the fuel tank and after full fuel tank problem is still here. I've logged diagnostics live data for current and desired fuel pressure and both are showing the same values iaround 5150kPa when idling so I don't think it's HPFP. Long term and short term fuel trims are 2-6 when cold and -2 to -5 once the engine is warm. Any advice on what next I could do is appreciated.
hello. I own a 2016 sportage and at full throtle it puces a lot of oil thru the crankcase breeder into the intake, what can cause that problem? I have already changed the pcv valve still the problem persist
I knew once this video started that it would likely be a vacuum leak to the crankcase. Such a common issue on European cars like Minis, Volvos, and BMWs.
I have a 08 base mini...throwing 2 codes p115c and p113b rough idle to the point of stall! Any ideas on what it can possibly be. ? Looked up the codes but a few things are stated what it could be. Appreciate any help
Awesome video. I had a similar problem with a pcv valve. I ended up replacing the valve cover as well. However during the installation of the new cover I had some oil get into the pcv valve. Now I don't think I have vacuum leak or anything but I am not sure if the oil that got into the pcv valve can damage it or anything. Will it only gradually go into the intake and get burned or can the pcv valve get damaged? Thank you!
Another cool diagnosis and repair! Hopefully, the oil (or excess fuel) burning issue wasn't going on for too long, causing damage to the catalytic converter(s).
Well it's a MINI, so it's been burning oil since the day it was born. What usually kills the cat on these is misfires, and that unburned fuel dumping on the comb makes short work of the catalyst.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
BEFORE YOU REPLACE THE ENTIRE VALVE COVER, READ THIS! First of all, excellent video! The mechanic mentioned that he didn't work with Mini's, so no fault to him at all. But being a Mini owner you'll notice in the video that the oil cap isn't installed properly causing the vacuum leak (as he mentioned). I've had this exact problem, which caused the same shaking. When the oil cap is installed properly the "oil lamp" logo will be perfectly positioned horizontally (as if the lamp was sitting on a flat table). In the video the lamp was screwed on too far making it go vertical. This is most likely because the rubber washer was lost when the cap was re-installed. This happened to me when I had some one else change my oil. You'll also notice that he had a hard time taking the oil cap off. This happened to me as well. That's because without the rubber washer on it the cap will turn too far making it like a puzzle to take off. Also, you'll notice that when the new valve cover (that included a new oil cap) was installed the oil cap was in the correct position. I'm not saying it didn't need a valve cover. But I am saying that it definitely needed a new oil cap, or at least a new oil cap washer. It would be better to try replacing the oil cap first before replacing the entire valve cover. You might find that's all it needed. I hope this helps!
Thanks, I just bought this mini, running rough and blowing out same black out of exhaust. But they just replaced the valve cover a month earlier, when I went to check oil I couldn’t get cap off, had to use pliers.
I’m going back to check for the rubber seal.
@@armhodeanapple6188 Yeah, no pliers should be needed. If the oil lamp symbol isn't perfectly horizontal when snug it's not on there right. The lack of rubber gasket allows it go turn past horizontal, and also makes it much harder to remove the cap.
You’re a
Legend. Mobile mechanic is where its at. Saves on overhead and you have a niche which makes you even more valuable.
Yes and no. Being mobile you can only do so much. Also a lot of time is burned unloading and loading your tools/equipment at job sites, crawling under cars, and driving all over town to pick up parts for repairs, or driving to different job sites. Oh and God forbid you have a comeback, or a warranty job. That will completely ruin your schedule. Also, having a shop means folks' property stays in your hands. Useful for when you have those ppl who are slow, or reluctant to pay...
Source? I was mobile for 4 years before I opened my shop. We all do it eventually. With a shop you work smarter not harder, and your income potential is higher.
You were spot on. Had this rough idle for weeks, now gone. You are my hero.
I love it that you don’t just throw parts at it and actually find the root cause! Keep them case studies coming!
Coming here a couple years late but this is an amazing video for a DIYer like myself. Appreciate the thorough diagnosis my dude!
You sir, are a hero among men. Bards will sing tales of your deeds.
That used to be a common problem on late model GM 4 cyl engines. The upper (pcv) manifold part would crack and BOOM! Lean codes and high positive fuel trims.
Nice work!
LOGICAL DIAGNOSTICS, VERY IMPRESSIVE, LIKE ALWAYS.
I LOVE THE WAY YOU FOUND THE ISSUE IS VACUUM LEAK!
YOU CAN BE THE BEST TEACHER EVER. THANKS.
Always nice to find another Advanced Level video, thanks for all your effort.
Thank you for always watching!
This guy is my hero fo real
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO could you get in contact with me please
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTOSO WHAT HAPPENED TO THE MISFIRES DID THE CUSTOMER COME BACK OR THEY WERE GOOD ?
Working on one of these Mini Coopers with the exact same problem. Thanks for sharing.
Nice work, sir - and you kept it "actual" as you thought-through the possibilities. 'So much more informative than those that film everything, then edit-backwards to make themselves look more clever...versus realistic as variables present themselves!
Forgot to mention that your videos are the best you show the symptoms and the fix
My R56’s idle would have misfires after the engine warmed. Replaced coil pack, plugs then rebuilt PVC, all to no avail. Replaced engine cover with new PVC. Still no change. Finally checked vacuum lines. They had oil in them. Removed the oil and idle went back to normal.
Did you check the VANOS?
I had a rear main leak on my Tundra. Just decided to keep adding oil every month and live with it. Did some research on RUclips and someone mentioned doing multiple rear main seals on a tundra. They said it was the PCV valve sticking and not allowing pressure to relieve in the crankcase. Changed my PCV valve for like less than $20 problem solved. It's been a few years now and rear main is still dry.
Great stuff, Thanks a lot.
Commenting to give credit, this video gave me the info I needed to diagnose and fix the problem. New valve cover fixed the issue! Thanks for the video.
Great video. Same exact problem on Wives Buick Encore with the 1-4 engine. It's built (PVC) right into it. The days of buying the $4 PCV valve & pulling it out with needle nose pliers is over. As usual it's more complex than it needs to be
Eric's next video,, how to replace the cat on a Mini Cooper lol. Great video bud👌
You literally helped me determine I need to replace my minis valve cover
a new valve cover cost $250 and that's what fixed my rough idle problem.
I think you can get that PCV valve as a single part, too. At least as aftermarket part. There's a membrane in there that is prone to rupture. There are videos on how to replace it. (The OEM surely wants to sell you the whole cover)
Edit: Yeah, you can buy only the membrane as a replacement part for like $15 on eBay.
Thank you so much for this video replaced the head gasket on my 2006 mini cooper s and gave up on it for about 2 months because it couldn’t keep idle after putting it together all for this to be the problem when I got motivation to work on it again
Most manufacturers don't sell valve cover gasket separate nowadays b'coz as a rule of thumb - the gasket leaks as it reached its end of life, the pcv valve has also reached near its end of life. Hence sell them as a set of new valve cover and gasket...
You are great mechanic, a rara Avis nowadays. And it’s not only how well you troubleshoot, it’s also how well you communicate your knowledge.
Pretty cool to see these engines in the US have a air flow meter. In europe these engines are used in mini, peugeot en Citroën but they never have a mass air flow meter there only using a intake presssure sensor.
I had the same issue with my gf’s car. You don’t have to replace the whole cover, you can buy a replacement membrame with spring and top pcv cover for around 40 bucks from ecstuning. And it’s incredibly easy to replace aswell
An excellent diagnosis Eric... WELL DONE!!! 10/10
Being a Mini One owner of the same vintage, I instantly noticed that the oil cap was not in the correct position. It should lock properly when the symbol is nicely horizontal.
Those are notorious for burning oil. I did my daughter’s last summer since it used a quart of oil every 400 miles. It took a lot of cleaning in the head and piston rings. If you don’t catch the low oil they will start rattling pretty good and jump timing due to a loose timing chain. Also timing chain guides like to break too and lots of other gremlins. Vamps on intake and exhaust and the good ole Valvetronic on the intake.
Finally figured out what wrong with mine had a lot of the same issues. Thanks!
Very good.It needs a long drive now a good clean out. All the best.
An Italian tuneup! 🏁🏁
When the BMW Mini first came out, I really wanted one, so glad I didn't buy though. Great work as always
You missed out. I drive really big rock crawling Jeeps and love getting in my MINI. Really fun cars.
What a piece of crap car. I would never...
Your videos are awesome, makes learning fun and easy!!! Keep doing this, love from Nigeria!!
You too you’re here 😂😂
@@freewayninja4065 no dey cast me bro😁😁😁
Hey bud good catch but not 100% sure you had a bad valve cover, versus just a failed valve cover gasket. I work on these cars for a living, just wanted to share that these crankcase systems will cause lean idle faults if a gasket or seal is leaking. As the engine *sucks air around the failed gasket or seal* .This is an unmetered air flow and results in a lean condition.The valve cover is pricey. Last thing you want to do is sell a customer a $480.00 valve cover, when your $15.00 front main seal leaking was the culprit.😩🤭. MINI wants you to remove the oil cap and use a manometer to measure engine vacuum levels at the valve cover. This is how you test the crankcase valve. What many of us do is take an oil cap and modify it with a npt nipple so we can hook up and take the appropriate readings. On non-turbo applications you should never exceed 36 mBar. Simply removing the oil cap with the engine running is a bad test because there is supposed to be *some* vacuum there. The crankcase valve's job is to create a controlled vacuum leak as it helps expel pressure from the crankcase. It can only do that if all the engine seals and gaskets are in good shape.
On the topic of fuel trims BMW uses additive fuel trims (AFT) and multiplicative fuel trims (MFT). Additive trims give you a definition of what is happening to keep the engine running stoichiometric at idle. Multiplicative trims are your readings at part throttle, or engine under load. The difference between AFT/MFT vs the more popular short/long term fuel trims are a calculation of injector on time not exhaust content. This reading is provided in ms or mg/stroke.
So say for example you have very positive AFT's, a reading of like +7.0ms. This could indicate a lean at idle condition as the computer has commanded the injectors to stay on for 7 milliseconds longer. There is one final important detail to note with AFT/MFT and that is how the computer calculates injector on time. Two main components are used: the MAF and the oxygen sensor reading *after* the catalyst. The reason for this is because the MAF is the very first reading or obstacle the air charge comes in contact with before the engine, and the post cat oxygen sensor is the reading of air after it has exited the final component in the emissions system. Understanding that logic, the technician can now begin the process of elimination through diagnosis.
Exact same issue, was getting spark and fuel, valve cover removed twice, but the pcm valve in my case was bad. Gonna try this! Thanks!
I do a lot of these. We dn't have that much Mini's in Serbia but it's the same engine in Peugeots (don't think you even heard of Peugeot, but anyway identical engine, even factory data PID-s are the same). Actually in USA you can buy just a membrane with that small cover and little spring that fits inside, you don't need to buy the whole valve cover. There are several sources in USA. I live in Serbia and it's much more difficult to buy one as delivery rates are ridiculously expensive.
Common mistake that people make with this engine when it comes to ''repair'' this PCV to stop oil consumption, is to simply unplug that hose and put a cap to it. That way (and I don't know the theory behind this) they screw up oil pressure which causes damage to the cylinder head pretty quickly. When that happen there is no other option but to replace the whole head as almost nothing on it can be repaird.
I would only think plugging the pcv tube both ways will disable the engine from relieving excess pressure building up at the bottom end which will lead to engine seals failure - offcourse this excess pressure would only build at higher loads not idle-
Great info by the way.
Prolly Dorman garbage from that garage. Oil cap not fitting is a dead giveaway. Solid work Eric. Hope you’ll start posting on Odysee or BitChute too.
Excellent approach of the problem. well done.
Great Diagnosis! I was thinking about the infamous dirty intake valves of that Direct Injection Engine.
It's not direct injection!
@@nemanjadzombic6101 You're right, seems the N18 engines have GDI with the infamous dirty intake valves...Eric The Car Guy has a good video on this issue.
ERIC, AWESOME always good to see u loading videos brother ur one of the best youtuber i watch right away. cheeeeers
Great Content! I am a pro at this, but most folks are scared to learn schematics or use any kind of meters, Good job showing the folks what it takes, I hope your channel grows, use to work for ram dealership, They are the shotgun pros, parts changers
What a great video, well done dude 👌
Brother, you become a unique video every time and I see every video of you. I learn a lot, love you, Eric Bro.
This guy is a great mechanic. Eric, you da man!
54k miles and it has issues, typical bmw garbage, yeah I know it's pretty old but still... Great video!!!
Really nice procedure!
12:43 that bolt just spinning like it wants to be free..lol
hahahahah
True
Whew that Mini is going to need a cat pretty soon 😂
and plugs now
@@dodgeplow and maybe an o2 sensor or two
Maybe get a new car. What a piece of crap car.
As far as crankcase vacuum, I've had other people say there should be a significant vacuum at the filler cap. Which is it, I know you don't want pressure there?
This is likely a problem I’m having. Just replaced water pump, crossover pipe, which cheap Chinese one broke in less than a year(50k) and a new metal thermostat housing.. it had a separate sensor built into the plastic ones, cannot find a replacement in case that one fails however… but tbd. Everything installed, put back together, and still have issues. It fired up, but then when I went to give some gas, rough idle started and then it really glugs and chugs at about 5-600 rpm, I shut it off within 30 seconds as this just feels like it is ruining things. I’ve had many cars idle jump around. This is different. And I feel like it’s vacuum related, as I’ve had experience with this car running awful, until all vacuum connections were firmly secured.. I made sure this time to do so.. but I also attempted to clean my valve cover, and sprayed it down with brake cleaner as it was all I had on hand.. feel like neither dried the valve, or something cause I simply cannot see an issue. I want to test my water pump and thermostat to be sure they are working, but I can’t run my engine like this to test that. Frustrating.
Great Diagnosis! well done bro
Depending how long she drove like that , i would have checked the oil for contamination. Gotta love how bolts loosen when the engines running, evidenced by the bolt on the air box. Maybe left hand threads are better.
Good point
Very clever mechanic 👌🏼👌🏼
German for fuel trim is lambda, 1 is stoichiometry 14.7 to 1. .99 is a bit lean. 1.03 is a hair rich.
Great troubleshooting !!
What a great detailed step by step video. Love it.
Thank you for video I haven’t seen a new video on a mini lately looking forward I’m a beginner DYI
Really appreciate the video as always Eric.
Good work .........but what about the new oil filler cap ..........did it spin around and around too ?
Great question
Very good video on this case study , I think that BMW terms it as smooth running values.
how long did it take for the catalytic convertor to give up? mine lasted 3 days
.
I've seen this fault on VW's and some of the GM Ecotec engines.
South Main Auto did one of these a while back on a 4 cyl Chevy. A shame you have to replace the whole cover. And they are subseptable to cracking.
GM’s 1.4L are known for this
As far as I know 2.2l ecotecs don't have pcv valves
Just a friendly thought.... You might want to actually check the specs on that engine and what kind of crankcase VACUUM should be present at idle. All newer Mini and BMW engines have a closed loop PCV and pull vacuum at idle and part load with some pulling up to 30in.hg at idle. The spec for a N16 engine is around 36mBar or 19in.hg. so without actually measuring the PCV system via the oil filler cap your are taking a guess at best and if the engine is pulling excessive crankcase vacuum.
So does that mean it's normal for it to run rough when you take the oil cap off?
@@mikeprice6658Yes it is normal because you are creating a massive vacuum leak.
THanks Eric, right to the point, well explained .... Nice vid.
Hey Bud been waiting thanks for the new vid
I am having very similar issues with my 2009 n14 turbo engine. I’m going to change the pcv cover to see if that makes a difference. Been chasing miss fire issues maybe this will help
How did it go with Pcv?? Did fix or not am about to replace cause same issue what am going through about same let me know tnx
@@ramonacevedobravo4398 on mine it was a blown head gasket. Between cylinder 1-2
You are AMAZING!! THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO!
DANG! you are such a good teacher!
Nice find 👍👍
Nice repair bro thanks
Eric this is exacly what my car is doing hopfulluy this solves my issue
Well put together video and diagnostic keep it up
Fab video I have occasional.rough idling mostly once warmed up could it be pcv? It's a cx5 2.2d thanks
Really informative video..Great work
Very informative video. Good job
Awesome job like always buddy where have you been i miss watching your videos
Hi bro, I don't know your name, but am Love does tools I saw in this vídeo, greatings from Nicaragua.
Awesome… I am having issues with my mini base 2014. Going to look at that.
What a horrible car. So many people complain about them. What a shame. 👎
Absolute brilliance.
Very nice Eric.
Interesting video. Brother-in-law had one that loss power but never quit running. Just no power. Shop place on computer and indicate that the radio was bad. Bunch of heads being cracked. Car went to another dealer, more head scratching. Mechanic brought in from Germany. Engine Torn down finding nothing wrong with engine and reinstall and retest on computer. Again indicate that the radio was bad. What was discovered was the radio has a receiver that connects to a Satellite that updates the Vehicles computer. Amagine that! With the receiver the radio out and the computer not updating , Vehicle would not run properly. So a new radio was installed and guess what. Yep, problem solved. Run like a Scolded dog that was fed with the right information.
So the pc first Diagnose the problem correctly and a master Mechanic couldn't.
Brother-in-law not long afterward got rid of any further problems with the Mini co-op.
This is how I remember it going on with that car.
But like your problem solution and what led you to correcting the problem correctly.
Great job will done.
One thing when you put it back did it do the same with the oil cap suck it it or did it stop you never let us know
Great point
Ive changed my valve cover afyer watcjing this but its still running bad and still sucking at the oil cap 😩
the valve is there to give low vacuum at low revs and high vacuum at high revs, when it goes wrong it gives high vacuum all the time, on the 16v 4 cylinder Vauxhall's you know when this valve has gone because it gives you a James bond smoke screen at high revs, it will suck the sump dry.
Much valuable information, Thank u very much.
Brilliant videos 😊
My 2012 has a long term fuel trim around 65 at idle but goes down to zero while cruising on highway. I took off the oil cap and did not feel the suction that was in this video, but when I took off that PVC hose and plugged it with my thumb, the long term instantly went from 65 to 35 and my short term immediately went to -25. Does this sound like the PCV valve even though I don't have the suction on the oil cap? As a DIYer, I find your videos very educational. Thank you.
So the valve cover with built in PCV valve was my problem. Thanks for this video!
Leave it to german engineers to make you replace the valve cover just for the pcv valve. If that part failed on my Accent you could just unscrew the pcv valve from the side of the valve cover like it's a lightbulb.
I believe ecstuning sells the diaphragm and spring separate, don't quote me on that. But it's not worth it cause plastic valve covers crack over time with all the heat cycling.
Your vehicle is probably older because pretty much all late model vehicles use a *crankcase vent valve* which is commonly built into the VC and not serviced separately. Some vehicles can have the diaphragm serviced separately, but not all. MINI's unfortunately, requires a whole new VC.
You can buy just the Pcv valve for 15-40,
Depending on where you buy it.
Purrs like a kitten. Good fix
Mini r56 cooper s with n18 engine. Reporting P0302, 2efe, 2f00, 2ee2, 2ee9. I can see in diagnostics most of the misfires are on cylinder 2 and maybe few on other cylinders. This only happens first time in the morning when starting with cold engine, after that it's ok. I've changed sparkplugs and rotated coils but it's still reporting cylinder 2 misfire. I've tried injector cleaning additive in the fuel tank and after full fuel tank problem is still here.
I've logged diagnostics live data for current and desired fuel pressure and both are showing the same values iaround 5150kPa when idling so I don't think it's HPFP. Long term and short term fuel trims are 2-6 when cold and -2 to -5 once the engine is warm.
Any advice on what next I could do is appreciated.
Dam good job my friend. Sam
Did you check the crankshaft seals for leakage?
hello.
I own a 2016 sportage and at full throtle it puces a lot of oil thru the crankcase breeder into the intake, what can cause that problem? I have already changed the pcv valve still the problem persist
Good video Eric. Thanks for sharing stay safe and well Artie 👍
I knew once this video started that it would likely be a vacuum leak to the crankcase. Such a common issue on European cars like Minis, Volvos, and BMWs.
I changed my valve cover but its still sucking at the oil cap
Nice job and video
I have a 08 base mini...throwing 2 codes p115c and p113b rough idle to the point of stall! Any ideas on what it can possibly be. ? Looked up the codes but a few things are stated what it could be. Appreciate any help
Awesome video. I had a similar problem with a pcv valve. I ended up replacing the valve cover as well. However during the installation of the new cover I had some oil get into the pcv valve. Now I don't think I have vacuum leak or anything but I am not sure if the oil that got into the pcv valve can damage it or anything. Will it only gradually go into the intake and get burned or can the pcv valve get damaged? Thank you!
Eric I bought the mx808bt not really blown away.
I'm building my toolbox so should I buy ms906bt or a different one?
Consider im608 its the newer version and has advanced immobilizer functions
what is happening when you plug the vacuum line from the intake manifold? How come that fixes it temporarily?
Anything built past 05 is TRASH. If not before then. Good Job Eric.
It was Riley useful thanks allot 👍
Another cool diagnosis and repair!
Hopefully, the oil (or excess fuel) burning issue wasn't going on for too long, causing damage to the catalytic converter(s).
Well it's a MINI, so it's been burning oil since the day it was born. What usually kills the cat on these is misfires, and that unburned fuel dumping on the comb makes short work of the catalyst.