I marvel at how smooth you are with the saw, what they say about gunfighting is that smooth is fast. Your saw is always in the wood with no wasted motion making chips with rpm dialed on the sweet spot, pretty amazing how fast you drop em. It's a pleasure to watch you work. Thanks for posting.
I'm just amazed to watch somebody do so much cutting without getting their saw stuck haha! I carry two saws with me all the time just for the purpose of cutting out the one I got stuck🤣
The saw gets stuck because the wood is under compression. In most cases one side of the tree will be under compression while the other is under tension. In general you should first make the face cut on the compression side and then make the back cut on the tension side.
@@wizardsuth maybe I should have prefaced my statement a little bit more😅 Im in North Florida and was hit by Hurricane Aida. I have 40 acres of trees basically laying on the ground in a spaghetti entanglement so there's a whole lot of freestyle cutting and you can never tell in some cases which way the work is going to go. something I have learned from this though is the usefulness and power of wedges. I've been using them often now. it's amazing that you can have a saw pinched in a log laying on the ground and get it out by pounding wedges around
It makes perfect sense after you explained why you bore cut. I watched the other guys do things different but the bore cut is the safest way to fell timber in my opinion . (most of Europe bore cuts also) On occasion I think with bad wood you have to use different cuts. Nice job on the video and telling others they can do things their way safely too.
Just want to thank you for teaching me how to cut a tree from your vids . I learn something every time I watch. I like the plung cut for safety I found out. Let's you have time to get away from the tree once you cut it. I feel real comfortable doing it that way too. Thanks again Mr Butts.
On a recent video I saw you bore cutting and ALMOST asked as to why you did this. Figuring that you have been asked this MANY times, I thought it best to try and do a "search" and found this video, which is EXACTLY what I was looking for!! Another advantage to this method, and correct me if I am wrong, but as you are BACK CUTTING towards your "trigger" it appears that you are loading your kerf with chips that would help in keeping the tree from sitting on your bar. A great video with a good explanation. Thanks Pete!
You make some of the most down to earth, no nonsense, informative tree cutting videos. The only thing that could be complained about is, how you make everything look so easy. Many people watching your videos probably do not understand the hours of experience it takes to get to your level. I bore cut almost all leaning trees. And if possible all Red Oaks. After making firewood out of a nice 30 inch pretty Red Oak back in the late 90s, I try to remove all possibilities of that happening again. We didn’t have RUclips back then, I had to swallow my pride and start asking other loggers how they cut.
Might be there's too many you tubers making firewood for lots of people to get making firewood isn't a good thing. I laughed out loud though. Thanks guys
First off, Happy New Year! Second, you explain things in such a way, this "couch logger" can understand. Thank you for taking the time to show me/us how you do what you do!
Former Logger here in Central NC. I was taught this method many yrs ago and passed this teaching on to all new employee's. I still use this method and so do they to this day. Love your vids, keep up the good work and stay safe out there! JB-aka Treekilr
Safety is number one reason for bore cutting. When I worked in the woods I did a lot of bore cutting. It would give you more time to get away from the tree to avoid getting hit. Be safe
Nice. I used to do alot of what your doing. Now I'm just cutting enough off my own land to keep my lt 40super Diesel going. Keep up the good videos. I'm still learning.
Now I know why I get an expert to fell trees. I don't mind cutting firewood but standing trees, that's for the expert which I will never be. keep up the good work and keep safe
I like this method . I teach my guys to bore out the heart wood through the face and bore in on each side seperately, behind the hinge. Seeing to many accidentle bore cuts into the opposite side hinge. Its a great way to teach a beginner. I like how you cut the sap wood clean also
Never heard of bore cutting before, but I’m all for trying new ways to improve. What’s the gain of boring versus just cutting through all the way to the smile and having the tree down. Honest, not being critical but curious. I’m gonna start dropping trees next week so I’ll try this Thanks
@@Shogomockid Midwest hardwoods like to split or barber chair. Chase cutting a large oak or the like is just asking for a split. Also helps keep fiber from pulling.
Same here I was taught the same way to bore cut it was as he explained it the only safe way to cut a tree and get home that evening. I loved your explanation short and sweet and to the point. I still hate cutting poplar to this day. it seems everytime I cut one they still go wrong on the stump. I would rather cut anything in the woods but poplar. But here in the Central Appalachians that is about all seem to get sometimes on a boundary. I have question do you bore the heart through the face cut your bigger trees? The guy that taught me showed me that on the oaks and maples and I still use it if the tree has enough diameter and I don't have a long enough bar. I am a weird cutter I prefer a 32 or 36 inch bar even though I don't really need it. I know they are heavy I just have my own reasons for having such long bars on my saws. Good luck and stay safe in the woods.
First person I've seen(other than myself) do the sloping cut before the horizontal cutt. Unless I have to be really accurate, then it's gunning sights all the way. Big fan of the bore cut for heavy leaners. Thanks for sharing.
Nutsy, my dad doesnt call it chase cutting, we call it the pie cut method, from back in the days when saws werent as fast as they are now. my great uncles cut bigger hardwood than we can even really think of these days with saws much different than what we are used to now, some of those old school tricks are still very handy and safer than storing all of the trees kinnetic energy up into one spot and sending it, just my two cents, Great video though, you are fun to watch do what you do thats for sure, thanks so much for sharing and happy new year from Vermont
On the west coast we have lots of soft wood like Doug fir, white fir and so on the trees are usually straight and the branches are evenly divided on the trees usually. And they don’t open up like hard wood trees, when cut. As easy. Soft woods are probably more predictable to cut also. Our hard wood trees are smaller too and mostly alder and maple and oak and a feW others . Just some light on the idea
Safety is key in hardwood timber they behave different than like a straight pine that you can cut through easier cause of the softer wood too happy new year brother
Carl Williams I did SE GOL ( game of logging ) in 1994we had 4 different classes here in NE Ohio it was very interesting and educational . Boring was a necessity to set the hinge
Thanks for the video. My brother and i also self taught prefer the bore cut method too. We started with firewood and slowly added logging. Had logger explain it to us and a watching some of yours and loggerwades videos helped see it in action
Safety and not turning the butt log into pulp. ESPECIALLY when it’s 20 below zero. If you back cut a rock maple or red oak in 20 below weather the but log will split and crack. PERIOD. Great job wild man. Happy New Years to you.
Great work!! Great stuff!! The cuts you show are very helpful to me at my work. Climber/arborist-4 a residential tree Co. Alot of useful info! The physics of the grain, holding wood, hinge, and the cut, are all very interesting. Happy New Year!! Cheers!
I live in PA. That’s how a lot of logging is done here too. I’m just a firewood guy, and unless I’m falling a hard leaner I don’t usually bore cut. Maybe just in my head, but seems like a lot more load on the saw than chasing the cut, plus triggering it always scares the hell out of me because if I can even get a wedge in it’s in the side, but I’ve definitely experienced more tear out or fiber pull on certain species when I don’t bore. Kinda silly to criticize guys who do it differently. Think it’s best to just learn from others and keep asking questions nd experimenting for ourselves. Also, just curious, have you noticed in the passed ten years or so all the black Cherry seems to get sudden root rot and hollow out prematurely? Just something I’ve noticed. They always grew tall and spindly, but I seem to remember big mature black cherries when I was a kid.
Any idea why? Used to be though, eh? When I was a kid, the farm I now own was logged, and I remember Cherry was what they wanted then and there were some big trees then.
I’m cutting a lot of big dead oak , bore cut for two reasons , like you said not to split it and second so there is a trigger and gives you time to get out of harms way for the most part. Have a Happy New Year Pete!
i wish some of our west coast friends would try this method they probably like it smaller saw, sorter bar, less filing, less weight to lug around, a stock saw with a 24" bar will smoke a hot-rod saw with a 38' bar any day , not to mention 2-3 pounds lighter , thats adds up at the end of day ! hey i can cut a 6 foot tree with a 24" bar handily ! oh well just my forty yrs worth of 2 cents lol !
Wow, great timing. I found your channel after you fell a black oak on Captain Kleeman's channel. I was mentioning that you prefer to bore cut to a friend and we were both curious as to why? Now I know. I am on the west coast near Portland Oregon. Whole different logging scene by comparison. I appreciate you not wrongfully calling "gator" a barber chair. 🙂
Question coming from a simple firewood cutter. Maybe this was asked already, but how do you start your bore cut with kickback point of the bar, how do you do that? Most instructionals say to start plunge with the bottom half of the tip of the bar.
Correct, that is not the proper way to go about doing that as it reads in the manual LOL but I like to use the top part because once you get the feel for it it will literally climb right into the wood and pull it self through resulting in less effort from the Saw operator and less fatigue overtime
I enjoy bore cuts they always give me a chance to think outside of the standard box and a challenge. Because I love dem and will do them whenever i can Because I do more Westcoast style cutting an falling.
Nice way to say that Nuts. I'm living in the West and learning from a guy back East. Gotta love RUclips for making that possible. Happy New Year y'all, be safe as this too shall pass, one day at a time.
ya if you dont stay with the stump on some of these big firs or if your lettin the hinge hold it all the way you get some major wood pull here in the west for sure.... ol pete can put some wood down pretty quick huh lol you guys have a safe and Happy New Year now!
Had some time to kill, so i’ve been watching some older videos... 👍 The bore cut is awesome! And problaby the safest way to cut a tree. Fun fact, this is the first thing they will teach you on a safety class for chainsaws here in Sweden! Nice job, buddy! 👍🇸🇪
The bore or plunge cut is def helpful in many places and a cut anyone that regularly runs a saw should know how to do. With that said more often than not it's not needed. IMHO it's harder on the equipment chains bars etc. So on the farm buying my own. I don't use it much. In your shoes with someone else covering overhead of equipment. Use it on every tree bigger than 20"
I love cutting in the snow... Not! You know Pete... you have an excellent way of explaining things. No two trees are alike... no two landing zones are alike. Those subtle adaptations make all the difference when you’re trying to save the trees while harvesting an intact log. I enjoy watching you adapt to the particular needs of each situation. Excellent explanation! Hope your New Year goes really, REALLY well!
I'm new to your channel and I've been wondering this every since i1st saw your video... barber chair makes since... 5 years cutting 25 years in the electrical trade but self taught and lots of buckin Billy videos... I use the bore cut on weighted leaners ... but I keep learning from ya'll thanks for sharing
Your saw always seems to cut nice , smooth not to hungry, you must have your sharpening dialed in nice . Do you hand file ? Round ? Square?. Have you done a sharpening video ? Have a happy new year.
I hand file everything with a round file I have done sharpening videos I can’t remember how far back they are if I get a chance I’ll do another one don’t like Electric sharpener’s because if you’re not careful it messes up the temper of the tooth
I split a money tree as a rookie not bore cutting it and punching the heart. Any lean at all I bore cut now. If im having to turn one very hard ill do something different but the bore is safe. Ky tree service owner I do a lot of climbing.
Another scenario where a plunge cut is often the only safe way to bring down a tall tree when there is a chance of core rot like in old Aspen and sometimes cedars.
Can that method be used by short people to ? Thanks for a great years worth of videos . Have a great new years. I'll have a sip of Canadian whisky for ya
I cut the same way. I took the Game of Logging back in the 90's. Safety/$$ is the big reason for boar cutting. Most accidents happen 6-10 ft of the stump and the boar cut with trigger method allows escape time you should be long gone as the tree falls. In my opinion workers comp rates$$ was the biggest reason for the push to boar cut. Hope you have a happy,healthy and productive new year. Stay safe an log on my friend.
Happy new yr Pete. The hell with 2020. I always bore cut too. I’m not comfortable yet doing what you did at the end with the 1 side. I woulda bucked those limbs and got them out of my way so I can work both sides and match my bore cuts. But of course I’m not in production😜.
Had a chain saw instructor from up Canada way come down to Illinois and teach our BSA leader group the basics of chainsaw maintenance and use. He told us that after he had one or two trees explode on him because of hidden rotten wood he made it a personal practice to bore cut all trees around 10" & over. Rotten wood chips look and smell different than healthy ones as you well know. He sold me. Stay safe, and add a metal whistle to your vest to demand emergency attention when needed. It can often be heard over a chainsaw. and weighs almost nothing. Try it out
Essentially all you’re trying to do is keep fiber pull to a minimum out of the center of the hinge understandably you can’t always do this because of the lean of the tree or diameter of the tree works in bigger timber
@@nuts319 ok thanks, I am just cutting my own trees on my property for firewood so this must be a production thing for lumber? Just seemed a little dangerous to me.
I notice you cut the trigger at a steep angle instead of horizontally. Is that to keep the saw from getting stuck if the tree isn't leaning quite the way you expect?
Great instructions, You oughta been a teacher... That Husky you use is unbelievable, I'd love to bet F to F with you for a better look at your saw, bar, and chains.
You bring out a LOT of good points! Question from this old western firewood cutter: Seems like your face cut is really shallow (we cut about 1/3 through on our face cuts), so can you explain? Wanting to .earn from the master! :)
That’s more of a style of mine I only cut in as far as I feel I need to get into Good wood for a hinge that way when the log is milled the notch is taken off with the waist not, Thusnot lowering the grade of the log
Just stumbled upon this channel. Very cool stuff . I’m In PA , I work in construction. Been looking to maybe getting in the wood industry . I’ve always loved saws and cuttin . Just came from a family of cement finishers so it just what I did. Is the business strong in PA, I don’t know where your at exactly . Just curious . Fun watching ya bud
Welcome to the channel! I myself work construction for 14 years and left it to take this up. The business is hard but very rewarding when you can make it work
@@nuts319 ya I bet. I’m at my best in the woods. Just hard to leave the money I make with young kids. I’ll probably be at my current job for 10 years or so then who knows . Good for you though man 🤘🏽
@nuts319 You're so slick with that machine it's entertaining to watch, kinda like one of those Japanese chefs with the knives. I bore ok with the lpx; smooth, even starting with the top quad of the nose (in those cases where not enough clearance between wood and ground). The exl is kinda hairy; jumpy, and starting with top quad, whoa!, get back kickback. That Japanese bar let you cut like a Samurai? Any light you can shine on a stumbling brother? Dressed her out in exl this pm, gonna dance tomorrow. (620 pw 27"&24" echo/28" Oregon bars) Enjoy the day brother.
The best the advice I can give you for the EXL chain is don’t file your wreckers down too far that’s when it gets really really jumpy you can’t go as much as you could with a traditional LPX or LGX
Nutsy I appreciate these kind of instructions more than you know, with 50 acres of hillside I got all kinds of weird ass trees; so this helps me immensely understand the way to handle them. Have a great 2021 and cya next year 😬👍🎉
So if you do a lot of cutting with the top of the bar, does it wear out the bar and chain faster? Does most of the bar oil get flung off at the tip of the bar?
Great job explaining and showing! I’m from southern WV and enjoy seeing the videos! See a lot of the same types of terrain, trees, situations you do. I can take a lot of what you say or do in the videos in the mountains with me. Keep up the good work and stay safe 🪓
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I marvel at how smooth you are with the saw, what they say about gunfighting is that smooth is fast. Your saw is always in the wood with no wasted motion making chips with rpm dialed on the sweet spot, pretty amazing how fast you drop em. It's a pleasure to watch you work. Thanks for posting.
Thank you
I'm just amazed to watch somebody do so much cutting without getting their saw stuck haha! I carry two saws with me all the time just for the purpose of cutting out the one I got stuck🤣
The saw gets stuck because the wood is under compression. In most cases one side of the tree will be under compression while the other is under tension. In general you should first make the face cut on the compression side and then make the back cut on the tension side.
@@wizardsuth maybe I should have prefaced my statement a little bit more😅 Im in North Florida and was hit by Hurricane Aida. I have 40 acres of trees basically laying on the ground in a spaghetti entanglement so there's a whole lot of freestyle cutting and you can never tell in some cases which way the work is going to go. something I have learned from this though is the usefulness and power of wedges. I've been using them often now. it's amazing that you can have a saw pinched in a log laying on the ground and get it out by pounding wedges around
It makes perfect sense after you explained why you bore cut. I watched the other guys do things different but the bore cut is the safest way to fell timber in my opinion . (most of Europe bore cuts also) On occasion I think with bad wood you have to use different cuts. Nice job on the video and telling others they can do things their way safely too.
Just want to thank you for teaching me how to cut a tree from your vids . I learn something every time I watch. I like the plung cut for safety I found out. Let's you have time to get away from the tree once you cut it. I feel real comfortable doing it that way too. Thanks again Mr Butts.
On a recent video I saw you bore cutting and ALMOST asked as to why you did this.
Figuring that you have been asked this MANY times, I thought it best to try and do a "search" and found this video, which is EXACTLY what I was looking for!!
Another advantage to this method, and correct me if I am wrong, but as you are BACK CUTTING towards your "trigger" it appears that you are loading your kerf with chips that would help in keeping the tree from sitting on your bar.
A great video with a good explanation.
Thanks Pete!
On a plunge cut the trigger wood keeps the tree from pinching the bar. For a large tree you can also add wedges.
You make some of the most down to earth, no nonsense, informative tree cutting videos. The only thing that could be complained about is, how you make everything look so easy. Many people watching your videos probably do not understand the hours of experience it takes to get to your level.
I bore cut almost all leaning trees. And if possible all Red Oaks. After making firewood out of a nice 30 inch pretty Red Oak back in the late 90s, I try to remove all possibilities of that happening again. We didn’t have RUclips back then, I had to swallow my pride and start asking other loggers how they cut.
Lol. We have all had to swallow our pride a time or 2
Might be there's too many you tubers making firewood for lots of people to get making firewood isn't a good thing. I laughed out loud though. Thanks guys
First off, Happy New Year!
Second, you explain things in such a way, this "couch logger" can understand. Thank you for taking the time to show me/us how you do what you do!
Former Logger here in Central NC. I was taught this method many yrs ago and passed this teaching on to all new employee's. I still use this method and so do they to this day. Love your vids, keep up the good work and stay safe out there!
JB-aka Treekilr
Thanks JB
Safety is number one reason for bore cutting. When I worked in the woods I did a lot of bore cutting. It would give you more time to get away from the tree to avoid getting hit. Be safe
Awesome explanation of your felling method
As a guy new to dropping hardwoods, it was nice to hear your points on this!
Nice. I used to do alot of what your doing. Now I'm just cutting enough off my own land to keep my lt 40super Diesel going. Keep up the good videos. I'm still learning.
Great lesson for bore cutting and dropping trees. thank you!!
Never seen three taken down as fast as these and with such ease. Nice to see someone with such calm doing felling like you. Be safe out there.
Now I know why I get an expert to fell trees. I don't mind cutting firewood but standing trees, that's for the expert which I will never be.
keep up the good work and keep safe
Very well said!! That's how I cut all my trees is by bore cutting!! Stay safe my friend!!
I like this method . I teach my guys to bore out the heart wood through the face and bore in on each side seperately, behind the hinge. Seeing to many accidentle bore cuts into the opposite side hinge. Its a great way to teach a beginner. I like how you cut the sap wood clean also
Thanks buddy
You make this tree cutting thing look so easy. Also, that saw is really sharp. Thanks for posting
Never heard of bore cutting before, but I’m all for trying new ways to improve. What’s the gain of boring versus just cutting through all the way to the smile and having the tree down. Honest, not being critical but curious. I’m gonna start dropping trees next week so I’ll try this
Thanks
@@Shogomockid Midwest hardwoods like to split or barber chair. Chase cutting a large oak or the like is just asking for a split. Also helps keep fiber from pulling.
Had my place logged off. The. Hand cutter did it the same way you do. Get every bit of wood. Wisconsin. Alot of red and white oak trees.
@@elonmust7470 he said it weird but I got what he meant
Same here I was taught the same way to bore cut it was as he explained it the only safe way to cut a tree and get home that evening. I loved your explanation short and sweet and to the point. I still hate cutting poplar to this day. it seems everytime I cut one they still go wrong on the stump. I would rather cut anything in the woods but poplar. But here in the Central Appalachians that is about all seem to get sometimes on a boundary. I have question do you bore the heart through the face cut your bigger trees? The guy that taught me showed me that on the oaks and maples and I still use it if the tree has enough diameter and I don't have a long enough bar. I am a weird cutter I prefer a 32 or 36 inch bar even though I don't really need it. I know they are heavy I just have my own reasons for having such long bars on my saws. Good luck and stay safe in the woods.
Your patience is astounding. My first inclination would be to tell anyone who asked if they have to ask, they'll never understand.
First person I've seen(other than myself) do the sloping cut before the horizontal cutt. Unless I have to be really accurate, then it's gunning sights all the way. Big fan of the bore cut for heavy leaners. Thanks for sharing.
Nutsy, my dad doesnt call it chase cutting, we call it the pie cut method, from back in the days when saws werent as fast as they are now. my great uncles cut bigger hardwood than we can even really think of these days with saws much different than what we are used to now, some of those old school tricks are still very handy and safer than storing all of the trees kinnetic energy up into one spot and sending it, just my two cents, Great video though, you are fun to watch do what you do thats for sure, thanks so much for sharing and happy new year from Vermont
On the west coast we have lots of soft wood like Doug fir, white fir and so on the trees are usually straight and the branches are evenly divided on the trees usually. And they don’t open up like hard wood trees, when cut. As easy. Soft woods are probably more predictable to cut also. Our hard wood trees are smaller too and mostly alder and maple and oak and a feW others . Just some light on the idea
Thanks buddy!
Safety is key in hardwood timber they behave different than like a straight pine that you can cut through easier cause of the softer wood too happy new year brother
I saw Sorrel Ericsson give his demo of this method at the Richmond logging Expo back in the late 80’s.
Carl Williams I did SE GOL ( game of logging ) in 1994we had 4 different classes here in NE Ohio it was very interesting and educational . Boring was a necessity to set the hinge
Thanks for the video. My brother and i also self taught prefer the bore cut method too. We started with firewood and slowly added logging. Had logger explain it to us and a watching some of yours and loggerwades videos helped see it in action
Safety and not turning the butt log into pulp. ESPECIALLY when it’s 20 below zero. If you back cut a rock maple or red oak in 20 below weather the but log will split and crack. PERIOD. Great job wild man. Happy New Years to you.
Great work!! Great stuff!!
The cuts you show are very helpful to me at my work.
Climber/arborist-4 a residential tree Co.
Alot of useful info! The physics of the grain, holding wood, hinge, and the cut, are all very interesting.
Happy New Year!! Cheers!
@@elonmust7470Ya... why's that?
I live in PA. That’s how a lot of logging is done here too. I’m just a firewood guy, and unless I’m falling a hard leaner I don’t usually bore cut. Maybe just in my head, but seems like a lot more load on the saw than chasing the cut, plus triggering it always scares the hell out of me because if I can even get a wedge in it’s in the side, but I’ve definitely experienced more tear out or fiber pull on certain species when I don’t bore. Kinda silly to criticize guys who do it differently. Think it’s best to just learn from others and keep asking questions nd experimenting for ourselves. Also, just curious, have you noticed in the passed ten years or so all the black Cherry seems to get sudden root rot and hollow out prematurely? Just something I’ve noticed. They always grew tall and spindly, but I seem to remember big mature black cherries when I was a kid.
Cherry in southern pa just isn’t that good, Roy is very common
Any idea why? Used to be though, eh? When I was a kid, the farm I now own was logged, and I remember Cherry was what they wanted then and there were some big trees then.
I’m cutting a lot of big dead oak , bore cut for two reasons , like you said not to split it and second so there is a trigger and gives you time to get out of harms way for the most part.
Have a Happy New Year Pete!
i wish some of our west coast friends would try this method they probably like it smaller saw, sorter bar, less filing, less weight to lug around, a stock saw with a 24" bar will smoke a hot-rod saw with a 38' bar any day , not to mention 2-3 pounds lighter , thats adds up at the end of day ! hey i can cut a 6 foot tree with a 24" bar handily ! oh well just my forty yrs worth of 2 cents lol !
I agree
Thanks, I got my tail tucked a few years ago when I barber chaired a leaner that slabbed off. It could have gone fubar. I'm still humbled.
Thanks, 71 plus years old and still learning....really like your explanation.
Thanks Tom
Wow, great timing. I found your channel after you fell a black oak on Captain Kleeman's channel. I was mentioning that you prefer to bore cut to a friend and we were both curious as to why? Now I know.
I am on the west coast near Portland Oregon. Whole different logging scene by comparison.
I appreciate you not wrongfully calling "gator" a barber chair. 🙂
I enjoy it when you explain things. Thank you! Oh yes, Happy New Year Pete!!
Question coming from a simple firewood cutter. Maybe this was asked already, but how do you start your bore cut with kickback point of the bar, how do you do that? Most instructionals say to start plunge with the bottom half of the tip of the bar.
Correct, that is not the proper way to go about doing that as it reads in the manual LOL but I like to use the top part because once you get the feel for it it will literally climb right into the wood and pull it self through resulting in less effort from the Saw operator and less fatigue overtime
Nice video - everyone has their own style - you make it look easy knocking them down and placing where you want. Cheers, stay safe and Happy New Year
Well explained and demonstrated. Well done.
I have alder that lean a lot! I wrap the trunk above the cuts with heavy chain when falling them to stop jackknifing. Works.
This is exactly the video you needed to make. Perfect.
Dave do you remember the name of that stuff he's walking around on is. ? Its slipped my mind
Thank you David
@@toddreynolds8875 🤣🤣
Good job Pete. If I hadn't had back surgery I would like to be there with you deer hunting in the snow. Take care and HAPPY NEW YEAR
I enjoy bore cuts they always give me a chance to think outside of the standard box and a challenge. Because I love dem and will do them whenever i can Because I do more Westcoast style cutting an falling.
Brilliantly explained, looks like good work!
Nice way to say that Nuts. I'm living in the West and learning from a guy back East. Gotta love RUclips for making that possible. Happy New Year y'all, be safe as this too shall pass, one day at a time.
Well Pete your doing it right ! Could you imagine pulling fiber like they do out West ,on a big WO Veneer tree ? No because it would split !
ya if you dont stay with the stump on some of these big firs or if your lettin the hinge hold it all the way you get some major wood pull here in the west for sure.... ol pete can put some wood down pretty quick huh lol you guys have a safe and Happy New Year now!
Had some time to kill, so i’ve been watching some older videos... 👍 The bore cut is awesome! And problaby the safest way to cut a tree. Fun fact, this is the first thing they will teach you on a safety class for chainsaws here in Sweden! Nice job, buddy! 👍🇸🇪
The bore or plunge cut is def helpful in many places and a cut anyone that regularly runs a saw should know how to do.
With that said more often than not it's not needed. IMHO it's harder on the equipment chains bars etc.
So on the farm buying my own. I don't use it much. In your shoes with someone else covering overhead of equipment. Use it on every tree bigger than 20"
Thanks Pete! Guys like you, keep guys like me safe when we have to tackle a bigger tree ourselves. When in doubt reference a pro!!
I love cutting in the snow... Not!
You know Pete... you have an excellent way of explaining things.
No two trees are alike... no two landing zones are alike. Those subtle adaptations make all the difference when you’re trying to save the trees while harvesting an intact log. I enjoy watching you adapt to the particular needs of each situation.
Excellent explanation!
Hope your New Year goes really, REALLY well!
Thanks buddy
I'm new to your channel and I've been wondering this every since i1st saw your video... barber chair makes since... 5 years cutting 25 years in the electrical trade but self taught and lots of buckin Billy videos... I use the bore cut on weighted leaners ... but I keep learning from ya'll thanks for sharing
Welcome to the channel.
Merry Christmas to you and your family . THINK SAFETY and always put SAFETY FIRST . MY words into logging.
Experience and knowledge will keep you safe
Nice cutting Pete, smooth as silk as always, happy new year buddy
As hot as it's been here I'm loving that snow. I miss cold weather.
Your saw always seems to cut nice , smooth not to hungry, you must have your sharpening dialed in nice . Do you hand file ? Round ? Square?. Have you done a sharpening video ?
Have a happy new year.
I hand file everything with a round file I have done sharpening videos I can’t remember how far back they are if I get a chance I’ll do another one don’t like Electric sharpener’s because if you’re not careful it messes up the temper of the tooth
ruclips.net/video/g8CfGEtPWoA/видео.html
Ok thanks .
Excellent video and demonstration sir😃
I split a money tree as a rookie not bore cutting it and punching the heart. Any lean at all I bore cut now. If im having to turn one very hard ill do something different but the bore is safe. Ky tree service owner I do a lot of climbing.
Another scenario where a plunge cut is often the only safe way to bring down a tall tree when there is a chance of core rot like in old Aspen and sometimes cedars.
Can that method be used by short people to ? Thanks for a great years worth of videos . Have a great new years. I'll have a sip of Canadian whisky for ya
Thanks buddy
@@nuts319 If you ever travel north to NS , Canada stop in for a round .
Ive cut alot of leaners Ive bored a few times if its to bad Ill strap it Happy New Year brother stay safe n sane man!
the school of hard drops...love it thanks !!
Good video, and excellent explanation of why and how to maximize safety and yield
Thanks Paul!!
HAPPY NEW YEAR Pete! Stay safe and healthy, and may God bless...
After watching the video, I just noticed your channel name. Are you the guy who cut down the tree at Mike Morgan’s property recently?
Yes I am
I cut the same way. I took the Game of Logging back in the 90's. Safety/$$ is the big reason for boar cutting. Most accidents happen 6-10 ft of the stump and the boar cut with trigger method allows escape time you should be long gone as the tree falls. In my opinion workers comp rates$$ was the biggest reason for the push to boar cut. Hope you have a happy,healthy and productive new year. Stay safe an log on my friend.
well said young fella !!!! HNY shannon !!!!
@@StumpjumperVideosPA Thank you and HNY to you as well pa!!
Happy new yr Pete. The hell with 2020. I always bore cut too. I’m not comfortable yet doing what you did at the end with the 1 side. I woulda bucked those limbs and got them out of my way so I can work both sides and match my bore cuts. But of course I’m not in production😜.
Good job training the up and coming cutters.
Great video
Love it
Had a chain saw instructor from up Canada way come down to Illinois and teach our BSA leader group the basics of chainsaw maintenance and use. He told us that after he had one or two trees explode on him because of hidden rotten wood he made it a personal practice to bore cut all trees around 10" & over. Rotten wood chips look and smell different than healthy ones as you well know. He sold me. Stay safe, and add a metal whistle to your vest to demand emergency attention when needed. It can often be heard over a chainsaw. and weighs almost nothing. Try it out
I wear ear plugs muffs give me head ache for some reason
Great how to do it video. Keep up the great videos
Can you explain the reasoning for cutting out the heart wood? I bore cut my trees but I have never heard of cutting the heart wood out.
Essentially all you’re trying to do is keep fiber pull to a minimum out of the center of the hinge understandably you can’t always do this because of the lean of the tree or diameter of the tree works in bigger timber
@@nuts319 ok thanks, I am just cutting my own trees on my property for firewood so this must be a production thing for lumber? Just seemed a little dangerous to me.
I notice you cut the trigger at a steep angle instead of horizontally. Is that to keep the saw from getting stuck if the tree isn't leaning quite the way you expect?
Yep
Don't kid yourself....your cutting is exciting, it's not boring!
Great vid buddy. I cut some nice poplar today... Happy New Year. Take care
Great instructions, You oughta been a teacher... That Husky you use is unbelievable, I'd love to bet F to F with you for a better look at your saw, bar, and chains.
You bring out a LOT of good points! Question from this old western firewood cutter: Seems like your face cut is really shallow (we cut about 1/3 through on our face cuts), so can you explain? Wanting to .earn from the master! :)
That’s more of a style of mine I only cut in as far as I feel I need to get into Good wood for a hinge that way when the log is milled the notch is taken off with the waist not, Thusnot lowering the grade of the log
Just stumbled upon this channel. Very cool stuff . I’m In PA , I work in construction. Been looking to maybe getting in the wood industry . I’ve always loved saws and cuttin . Just came from a family of cement finishers so it just what I did. Is the business strong in PA, I don’t know where your at exactly . Just curious . Fun watching ya bud
Welcome to the channel! I myself work construction for 14 years and left it to take this up. The business is hard but very rewarding when you can make it work
@@nuts319 ya I bet. I’m at my best in the woods. Just hard to leave the money I make with young kids. I’ll probably be at my current job for 10 years or so then who knows . Good for you though man 🤘🏽
Yeah most trees here in Massachusetts are leaners that split up the center.
How much dead oak do you have up your way from the gypsy moth there’s a ton of it here in Rhode Island I’m just stopping to visit someone
@@nuts319 there’s a lot but I’m on cape cod people spray a lot for them here . The Pitch pines have a lot of beetle boar .
Happy New Year Pete, great explanation how and why you cut the way you do..be safe
Thanks for all your efforts. Have a Happy New Year!
Just stumbled on to your channel great content and awesome work with those trees but man that saws quick !!! What is it ?
Husqvarna 372xp
Nice video. I'm curious why you stop and cut the trigger from the outside in instead of just finishing the bore all the way through.
When you cut from the outside in it increases the area of the trigger so when it goes it goes all at once instead of starting to split and breakapart
Looks like that method would most certainly prevent or greatly reduce the chance of the rocking chair.
Exactly what chain are you running? ie Oregon lpx; exl//
Stihil rs; rs3. That's really smooth and fluid cutting my man.
Used to run Oregon 72lgx but now it’s the exl
@nuts319 You're so slick with that machine it's entertaining to watch, kinda like one of those Japanese chefs with the knives. I bore ok with the lpx; smooth, even starting with the top quad of the nose (in those cases where not enough clearance between wood and ground). The exl is kinda hairy; jumpy, and starting with top quad, whoa!, get back kickback. That Japanese bar let you cut like a Samurai?
Any light you can shine on a stumbling brother?
Dressed her out in exl this pm, gonna dance tomorrow. (620 pw 27"&24" echo/28" Oregon bars)
Enjoy the day brother.
The best the advice I can give you for the EXL chain is don’t file your wreckers down too far that’s when it gets really really jumpy you can’t go as much as you could with a traditional LPX or LGX
Happy New Year Pete hope you have a great 2021
New Subscriber. Nice work. Question. When pullling the trigger would you ever cut the trigger from the bore side rather than from the outside? Thanks!
You can but I prefer to cut it from the outside end makes a cleaner break
Nutsy I appreciate these kind of instructions more than you know, with 50 acres of hillside I got all kinds of weird ass trees; so this helps me immensely understand the way to handle them. Have a great 2021 and cya next year 😬👍🎉
We call the split trunk a barber chair here on the west coast. Very dangerous business. I didn’t ask because I already knew. Lol.
Thank you
Great info
Stay safe
Another great day out in the office. Happy new year. Stay safe
You guys make it look so friggin easy!!!
hi there man you make it look easy . you have a skill john
Well said congrats on the 10,000
Thanks Odie
Stay safe out there brother.
So if you do a lot of cutting with the top of the bar, does it wear out the bar and chain faster? Does most of the bar oil get flung off at the tip of the bar?
Tips wear out faster but they are replaceable, it doesn’t seem to affect the oil much
Great way to explain how to do it always a good video with Nutts
Thanks Eric!
Great job explaining and showing! I’m from southern WV and enjoy seeing the videos! See a lot of the same types of terrain, trees, situations you do. I can take a lot of what you say or do in the videos in the mountains with me. Keep up the good work and stay safe 🪓
How the hell did you start a bore cut with the top tip of the bar?
Just takes time once you get used to it it pulls the bar right into the tree
I bore cut (most of the time) because Forestry Mutual Insurance Company requires it and actually comes out and checks your stumps...lol
You don't top out any of the trees you put down?
I do just edited that out