@@nandobarreto2sure, an induction forge can work very well for this part of the build. I don’t think they are that good for heat treating but for actual forging they work well.
Thank you! I was looking a way to start forging, but the place I have is closed, i dont think a propane forge would be a good idea, that's why i though about induction. In this case I would need an induction forge and a electric oven for heat treating, am I right?@@TyrellKnifeworks
Clearly and concisely covers the elements of knife forging. Kudos for taking the time to explain how to avoid fish lips; many of the beginners I've worked with just don't get that part.
This is so helpful. I’ve done metalworking in scouts before, but I always thought the price barrier was insane. I’m definitely going to get my own forge now.
That's how I've done all my forged blades so far I haven't yet tried to forge bevels. I just got in some 5160 1/4x1 1/4 so I'm getting ready to give it a try wish me luck 🤞 great video
great video Denis i need all the help i can get with my forging skills LOL im getting there slowly i wish i had more time to practice looking forward to PT2,!!!!👍👍 Mark
That’s from Two Basterds Smithy, instagram.com/twobasterdshammers?igsh=ZWI2YzEzYmMxYg==. Leave Frank a msg and he’ll hook you up! Tell him I sent you. Thanks for watching.
Great video, thanks for showing all the heats it takes to thin and shape the blade with a hand hammer. Any thoughts on editing in a 'heat counter' into some corner of a future beginner videos?
Thanks so much for this series, Denis! I’m just now on my third ever knife. The first was made from pretty thick truck leaf springs. I kept getting a bow in the blade…I’d flatten it out and then back into the forge. Taking it out, it had the bow again! 😡. Do you think that the bow of the leaf spring had anything to do with it? I’ve seen plenty of vids where the smith used leaf springs (yours included) and those came out flat.
It may be where you had it in the forge. Was the burner pointed directly at it? It may be heating up the center more than the ends, causing it to warp in the forge. Just a thought though.
Definitely not those two. Really just 5160 and O1. The shallow hardening steels like 10xx should not be quenched with canola, it’s too slow of a quenchant. Thanks for watching.
Do you actually measure the thickness of the billet and then calculate where to start the handle based on your desired length and desired thickness, or do you just sorta estimate and eyeball it? I usually just eyeball it and estimate, but I've seen some smiths do some math and some very precise forging to end up with exactly what they're aiming for. I'm kinda torn as to the best approach, since estimating will often waste a bit of material but it's substantially faster and easier. Also when I was first learning to forge, I found it easier to draw a billet out using the peen of the hammer and the horn of the anvil so if anyone has trouble using the peen and the edge like you're doing, then maybe try the horn and see if that works better for you while you work on improving your aim with the hammer.
Doing the volume calculations is an advanced technique to be sure. In this example I just estimated it, which is why the handle is a bit thinner than the blade, because I needed a bit more length. As for forging on the horn, it’s a viable approach but the horn isn’t supported so you get much less mass under your blows as opposed to the edge of the anvil. Both work but the edge can be a bit quicker. Thanks for watching.
Really just 5160 and O1 can be quenched with canola. Other steels, particularly the 10xx really need a faster quenchant to be effective. Thanks for watching.
Do you have any questions about the forging in this video? Any tips I missed?
Hi sir thanks for your clear explanation I have doubts that I can use SS309 for this forge ?
I have 1 question: Can I use a induction heater instead of a forge?
@@electromind4183I’m not sure what an SS309 is.
@@nandobarreto2sure, an induction forge can work very well for this part of the build. I don’t think they are that good for heat treating but for actual forging they work well.
Thank you! I was looking a way to start forging, but the place I have is closed, i dont think a propane forge would be a good idea, that's why i though about induction. In this case I would need an induction forge and a electric oven for heat treating, am I right?@@TyrellKnifeworks
Great to see you giving back spreading that knowledge for the next generation
Thanks, Philip! I love teaching so I’m happy to have this for others to learn from.
Great vid mate. Probably one of, if not the best beginner video I have seen on RUclips. Great content. 🤘🏻
Thanks so much! I appreciate you taking a look.
This video went really well with whiskey and a cigar ... 😂 Keep 'em coming! I like that you're redoing you video series with all your new gear too
I shoulda had some whiskey when I was forging, it would have made that go a bit smoother. 🤣. Thanks for watching, Justin!
Clearly and concisely covers the elements of knife forging. Kudos for taking the time to explain how to avoid fish lips; many of the beginners I've worked with just don't get that part.
I’d prefer to cut the stock on an angle, but sometimes you gotta do it! Thanks for watching, Bryson!
Woohoo! Everybody loves winning! Anyone who gets a Tyrell knife is definitely a lucky guy indeed.
Thanks for watching!
This is so helpful. I’ve done metalworking in scouts before, but I always thought the price barrier was insane. I’m definitely going to get my own forge now.
It’s really not that expensive to get started. Thanks for following along.
That's how I've done all my forged blades so far I haven't yet tried to forge bevels. I just got in some 5160 1/4x1 1/4 so I'm getting ready to give it a try wish me luck 🤞 great video
I’ll cover more forging techniques when I redo the intermediate series and forge in bevels on that one. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Denis!
Thanks for watching, Matt!
@@TyrellKnifeworks we just ate at Hiem BBQ #wishyouwereherelol
Great video Denis! I've done a lot of stock removal, and have only forged a few pieces. Your tips are very helpful!
I'm glad it was helpful for you, Jim! Thanks for watching.
Nice work dude 👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Awesome thanx
Thanks for taking a look!
great video Denis i need all the help i can get with my forging skills LOL im getting there slowly i wish i had more time to practice looking forward to PT2,!!!!👍👍 Mark
Thanks for following along, Mark! Good luck in the draw!
I love that hammer
That’s from Two Basterds Smithy, instagram.com/twobasterdshammers?igsh=ZWI2YzEzYmMxYg==. Leave Frank a msg and he’ll hook you up! Tell him I sent you. Thanks for watching.
Great video, thanks for showing all the heats it takes to thin and shape the blade with a hand hammer. Any thoughts on editing in a 'heat counter' into some corner of a future beginner videos?
That’s an interesting concept, a “heat counter”. When I do the intermediate series I’ll add that. Thanks for watching!
Would love to learn about hammer control
A lot of that was covered in the previous video. Check that out if you haven’t. Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much for this series, Denis! I’m just now on my third ever knife. The first was made from pretty thick truck leaf springs. I kept getting a bow in the blade…I’d flatten it out and then back into the forge. Taking it out, it had the bow again! 😡. Do you think that the bow of the leaf spring had anything to do with it? I’ve seen plenty of vids where the smith used leaf springs (yours included) and those came out flat.
It may be where you had it in the forge. Was the burner pointed directly at it? It may be heating up the center more than the ends, causing it to warp in the forge. Just a thought though.
What steels can you heat treat with canola oil 1084, 80crv2????
Definitely not those two. Really just 5160 and O1. The shallow hardening steels like 10xx should not be quenched with canola, it’s too slow of a quenchant. Thanks for watching.
Do you actually measure the thickness of the billet and then calculate where to start the handle based on your desired length and desired thickness, or do you just sorta estimate and eyeball it? I usually just eyeball it and estimate, but I've seen some smiths do some math and some very precise forging to end up with exactly what they're aiming for. I'm kinda torn as to the best approach, since estimating will often waste a bit of material but it's substantially faster and easier. Also when I was first learning to forge, I found it easier to draw a billet out using the peen of the hammer and the horn of the anvil so if anyone has trouble using the peen and the edge like you're doing, then maybe try the horn and see if that works better for you while you work on improving your aim with the hammer.
Doing the volume calculations is an advanced technique to be sure. In this example I just estimated it, which is why the handle is a bit thinner than the blade, because I needed a bit more length. As for forging on the horn, it’s a viable approach but the horn isn’t supported so you get much less mass under your blows as opposed to the edge of the anvil. Both work but the edge can be a bit quicker. Thanks for watching.
So if you going to show how to start I’m saving all of these
These are all part of the Beginner Series playlist so just save that playlist. 😉. Thanks for watching, Gino.
@@TyrellKnifeworks will do thank you
I hope 5160 can be heat treated with canola oil, that's what I've been using! Haha
Really just 5160 and O1 can be quenched with canola. Other steels, particularly the 10xx really need a faster quenchant to be effective. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks but not as far as a water wrench for the 10xxs, right? I know 1045 can be, but that's lower carbon
@@joestuttgen5058any of the 10xx steels CAN be water quenched but it’s generally not a good idea. Parks50 is the recommended quenchant.
@@TyrellKnifeworks is it possible to heat treat a 10xy carbsteel using vegetable oil that has been cooled?
It’s not optimal at all to use vegetable oil. It won’t harden like it would with the proper quenchant.
I miss my knifemaking days so much, now that i live in an apartment i can't do that anymore
Yeah that’s kinda tough in an apartment. Maybe you’ll get back to it some day. Thanks for watching.
Доброго здоровья Вам я из России.
Спасибо за просмотр!