Triple-T
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- Опубликовано: 27 мар 2024
- #tyrellknifeworks
In today's Triple-T (tools, tips and talk) #177, we continue our Beginner Series by adding a maker's mark, acid etch and then a handle to our knife.
Thumbnail Table Edge Router Bit: amzn.to/3Lez7oL
Maritime Knife Supply: maritimeknifesupply.ca/
My Website: www.tyrellknifeworks.com
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Abrasives by Brodbeck Ironworks: brodbeckironworks.com/
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Хобби
Love this system looks easier than my earlier effort.
I do have a router and table that, to my surprise, have not used it much after wanting one many times
You are doing lots of things well. Good teaching,
Anyone that listen will have it easier than learning on their own. thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Good morning Dennis! Another great video filled with useful information! You are very much appreciated!
Thanks so much, Stephen! I'm happy you're following along!
Maybe mention handle thickness for scales on next video so people have a point of reference for starting for various types of handles, not just simple scales since many people don't know where to start to get a comfortable handle and will either make it too skinny and small, too big and bulky or waste a bunch of expensive material trying to figure it out
That's a great point, I had it on my list but forgot to mention it. I'll take about handle material options and thicknesses in the next video. 🙏. Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks no problem and always, you make cool stuff and the videos with the explanations in it are great pointers to shorten the learning curve for the more advanced stuff vs trial and error or not doing it at all
I continue to struggle with thickness as well. Having larger hands what I think is comfortable and what my wife thinks is comfortable is drastically different!
@@FieryFeatherForge I hear you on that. I think lots of makers have this same problem and I'll address it next episode. Thanks guys!
Very informative and easy to follow
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Great video. I’m currently making my first stonewashed blade this weekend. This video could have come out at a more perfect time
I’m glad it’s timely! Thanks for watching.
Great video. You did it well 👏👏
Thanks for the visit!
❤ Good Morning 🤘🏻
I was missing your regular "Good Morning" comment! LOL. Thanks for watching, buddy!
@@TyrellKnifeworks sorry I was late. 😊
Great vid as usual and muchly appreciated! I’ve been a woodworker tor about 40 years, and until you mentioned it, it never occurred to me to route the edges of the handle! Duh! 🤦🏼♂️
It really is the easiest and quickest way. Thanks for watching n
This latest series is great!! I’m a new knife maker and your videos are helping out immensely.
So good to hear! Welcome to the craft and thanks for following along!
Excellent!
Thanks for checking it out!
Always learn something from you, thanks! Big fan of the sled, thanks for mentioning it.
It's SUCH a great device! I kick myself for not making one years ago. Thanks for watching, buddy!
Luôn theo dõi video của anh. Rất bổ ích ạ. Chúc anh sức khoẻ ạ
Cảm ơn bạn đã theo dõi! 🙏
I used gator piss for 5160 Damascus but you must coffee darken it and it looks great. I also think I use a #30 drill bit for 1/8" pins but don't quote me on that im not at my shop. Great video 👍
Yeah, the coffee would work, but I didn’t have that kind of time. That video was down to the wire yesterday as it was. 🤣. Thanks for watching, Richard.
Dennis, thank you for another great video! I noticed that you routered the pins a bit. Guess, this is ok for G10 (plastic) but may not be a great idea for brass or mild steel. Just wanted to caution. Please, correct if I am wrong. Thanks again!
It’s a carbide tipped router bit, it’ll go through any pin stock with ease. 😉. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworksDennis, please, be careful with them! I saw such carbide mills shatter when hitting a nail.
Another question before I forgot: are you not using maker's mark stamps? That sounds easier in general, although your mark is rather complicated. Thanks!
Those are referred to as hot stamps. I’m not really a fan of those personally. If you do a lot of grinding on your blades, it’s not a good method. Plus with a moderately complicated mark, they don’t work well. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the great video! What type/brand of ceramic media did you use here? Thanks again!
There’s a link to my Amazon store and the media is linked in there. I’ve since added a crushed up piece of ceramic tile which is cheaper and actually more effective. Thanks for watching.
Russian Cossack shashka saber would be sweet build as well after the viking challenge as well
That’s a little too specific for a challenge but maybe as a regular build on the challenge some day. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks that's what I meant, just a regular build, not a challenge build since it is so specific but it looks like a fun but challenging build with the curves blade, big hollow grind, cast brass and carved handle and I haven't seen anything similar worth mentioning on RUclips as of yet
Hi Tyrell. Sorry I post this "unrelated" comment here but this is the last video you've posted so far and I wanted to ask you something. I've been following the channel for quite a while now and I love the "Layering" videos where you put stuff like Copper, Silver or even Gold inside the blades you make. I understand the technique is called "Brazing" and it works by using the inner layers to kinda weld together the other two materials... so I was wondering: Would this technique work to put together a blade with 2 layes of Titanium on the outside, 2 layers of something else (like copper) inside, and 1 layer of high carbon steel in the center for a better edge retention?. I would just love to see how would a blade like that look after anodizing the titanium.
I would understand if you dont wanna do it yourself since titanium can be quite expensive, but some guidanse or just a "Yes or no" answer to if it is possible would be enough for me. Thank you in advance
I know we say “brazing” but the correct term is diffusion welding. This works with metals with relatively low melting points. Titanium does not fall into that category for several reasons. It requires a zero oxygen and almost lab-like conditions to fuse it to steel. It’s virtually impossible in a home shop. So that’s a no I’m afraid. Thanks for watching!
Can I used motor engine oil for quenching
NO, you can use a lighter oil like peanut oil or corn oil something like that
It's a terrible quenchant and it's REALLY not good for you. Stay away from it. Invest the $45 and get Parks50. 😉. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks sir here in our place we don't find parkas50 we are in a remote place and we find only cooking oil and engine oil
@@timothysullivan4130 can I used masterd oil
@@user-fx4kn4lg2b then get peanut oil
👏👏👏🤜🤛
Thanks for watching!
Did you say "Schmutz" 😂. I didn't know that this word exists in the states.
Nice Video like everytime
Well, I’m Canadian, so there’s that. 🤣. Thanks for watching
Well, yes i am from Germany, thats it, because Schmutz (it is like dirt) is a german term. 😊
@@kaiencross7845 Yup, I use that term on occasion meaning "dirt".
🤔The router table is a great idea. but They scare the beep out of me as i have a natural clutzyness.
Yeah, they are a bit scary. You just need to keep your fingers on the top. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks, that's true. However, I'm also going to add that my current aesthetic preference is Hexagonally shaped handles, slightly rounded, a bit easier to do on the belt sander and then fix with hand sanding.
@@gundanium3126those are ok for chef knives but look a bit odd on other knives.
@@TyrellKnifeworks@TyrellKnifeworks It's Likely true; however, they are at least for resting sheaths (I forget the proper term) used on Katana and Tanto, too. and done right, the esthetics are nice to my eye...and are easy to do with my equipment.