Boeshield T-9 is awesome stuff. I'm a woodworker as well as a cyclist, and I keep all of my shop tools protected with it. Saw tables, saw blades, hand tools... Basically anything made of metal. I also sweat a lot on the bike, and every time I do any work on any of my bikes, I always wipe things down with the T-9 afterwards. My alloy trainer bike in particular has about 8000 Zwift miles on it, and it still looks nearly new. I coat the stem, bars, all of the bolts and fastners, bottle cage mounts, the frame in general. Basically the entire thing gets wiped down with T-9 and it keeps it all well protected from sweat and looking shiny and clean. Love the stuff.
Jim Hansen good to hear there is a fellow woodworker/cyclist. I have always just used car wax on my WW tools but have definitely heard of T-9. I’ll have to give it a try now that I know of its multiple uses 👍
Came through twice in one day for me Shane. Got my new wheels this morning. needed to lengthen my brake cable which i'd never done before and this video was invaluable then I couldn't get the bloody tires on and your recent installing a tube video solved that problem as well. Money well spent
To be bike mechanic legit, your brake cables (front brake first) should be closest to the frame, gear cables shout run on the outside to avoid any rubbing, clamping or turning forces, but you can still easily refit the front brake one.
Lama... Lama... Lama... On the FLOOR??? grrrrrr... Okay, new house! new pain cave! Time for a proper workbench! There are lots out there, but I'm picturing one with a nice overhead light and a peg board back for hanging up all those bike tools. I built mine out of 2x4's (can you picture a butcher block out of 2x4's). Simple and extremely sturdy, more for working on cars, but good for bikes as well. I also went out and bought a small 3 drawer toolbox just for bike tools. Being the gear head, I had the obligatory big tool box that used to house my bike tools, but it's much nicer having a separate dedicated box. I also use several plastic storage containers for old spares and new stock, not to mention my multi-compartment storage box for all my small bike parts. And yes, I am a bit anal... Still, time to get up off the floor! nyuk! nyuk! nyuk!
I've never actually thought of having a workbench. I'm so conditioned to be working on /insert whatever/ in made up places, tight spaces, training rooms. Issue #1 - My workbench space is filled up with trainer boxes! :)
Stoffendous Oh here we go, grammar and syntax police are cruising RUclips tonight. You should probably think about how many question marks you use before trying to criticise someone's choice of jovial words.
Eli Douek check your cable breaks your right hand brake is your back brake your left hand brake is your from brake dust the proper way to set up your brakes
Where the rear brake cable 7:59 enters, do you remove the the rear cable guide? I don’t seem to be able to run the cable across the frame to exit at the rear of the frame. Any advice?
Hey Shane, thx for all these cool hacks and tips to make our lives easier. I have 17 TCR Advanced and will be upgrading my drive train, still mechanical, albeit. That said, can you shed some lights as to what I might be facing when replacing gear cables? Are there full length internal cable guides (black liner) that runs the whole length of the front and rear derailleur? How does Giants TCR internal cable interfaces down the bottom bracket? So many variables. Appreciate you response, mate! Cheers
What's again the title for the video regarding the handlebar coating? Only relevant for carbon or aluminium as well? btw glad to see you're still alive after that run from hell around the lake ;)
Bike companies don’t want to encourage use of their frames on indoor trainers. As such, bike companies have kept well clear of me to date. I also don’t like my TCR. So this isn’t much of an advertisement. :)
With the side cutters you are just trimming everything to square at the end? I open up the ends with a pick, but have never cut further after the cable cutters.
Interesting and very good idea. Personally I don't have that problem, prolly not riding hard enough! LOL. But I have seen bars with this situation. I like your fix / prevention.
Exactly,that is the most important point in getting the brakes done to pro level.The casing almost never can be pushed to its' final seating,you must use the power of brakes to accomplish this before any taping of the casing to the handlebar.So,clamp cable to caliper,pull brake lever with great force to get casing properly seated.Then you can tape the casing to the bar using strapping tape (a million times stronger than scotch tape)after the handlebar tape is secured, a final cable adjustment can be made.Some would find fault with covering bar logo and the finishing tape ending on top,these are cosmetic,the reason your brakes felt sticky to begin with is more than likely due to failure to follow the proper procedure.T-9 is essential for cable lube as well.
Question: On the TCR, ever have any problems where the cables enter the frame at the headset tend to destroy the housings? I've got a 2013 Rabobank Edition and I can't get past it. Considering going to Etap. I am using SRAM Red, so maybe the cable tension has something to do with it.
Use strapping tape not scotch tape. File end of cut cable for smooth end. Use pick to open up liner of housing. Front brake housing is too long. Use torque wrench on brake pinch bolt.
Boeshield T-9 is awesome stuff. I'm a woodworker as well as a cyclist, and I keep all of my shop tools protected with it. Saw tables, saw blades, hand tools... Basically anything made of metal. I also sweat a lot on the bike, and every time I do any work on any of my bikes, I always wipe things down with the T-9 afterwards. My alloy trainer bike in particular has about 8000 Zwift miles on it, and it still looks nearly new. I coat the stem, bars, all of the bolts and fastners, bottle cage mounts, the frame in general. Basically the entire thing gets wiped down with T-9 and it keeps it all well protected from sweat and looking shiny and clean. Love the stuff.
Jim Hansen good to hear there is a fellow woodworker/cyclist. I have always just used car wax on my WW tools but have definitely heard of T-9. I’ll have to give it a try now that I know of its multiple uses 👍
Came through twice in one day for me Shane. Got my new wheels this morning. needed to lengthen my brake cable which i'd never done before and this video was invaluable then I couldn't get the bloody tires on and your recent installing a tube video solved that problem as well. Money well spent
Excellent video!! No blabbing waffle, no b.s. music - just SHOW the people!!
out of 3 videos, this one was the most helpful for a newb. sometimes the slick editing just makes it too confusing to follow the progression. thanks!
To be bike mechanic legit, your brake cables (front brake first) should be closest to the frame, gear cables shout run on the outside to avoid any rubbing, clamping or turning forces, but you can still easily refit the front brake one.
I thought the front cable housing is front most and the rear brake housing closest to the frame?
this is so much better than the other video
Lama... Lama... Lama... On the FLOOR??? grrrrrr... Okay, new house! new pain cave! Time for a proper workbench! There are lots out there, but I'm picturing one with a nice overhead light and a peg board back for hanging up all those bike tools. I built mine out of 2x4's (can you picture a butcher block out of 2x4's). Simple and extremely sturdy, more for working on cars, but good for bikes as well. I also went out and bought a small 3 drawer toolbox just for bike tools. Being the gear head, I had the obligatory big tool box that used to house my bike tools, but it's much nicer having a separate dedicated box. I also use several plastic storage containers for old spares and new stock, not to mention my multi-compartment storage box for all my small bike parts. And yes, I am a bit anal... Still, time to get up off the floor! nyuk! nyuk! nyuk!
I've never actually thought of having a workbench. I'm so conditioned to be working on /insert whatever/ in made up places, tight spaces, training rooms. Issue #1 - My workbench space is filled up with trainer boxes! :)
Great video Shane. If reusing outer hose it's still better to trim the edges as they wear out and can interfere with the smooth cable movement.
That's the first repair video I've seen involving Scotch Tape
He's cheapy, don't even change a new handlebar tape...lol
these cables are proper legit for internal routing! such a difference to the el cheapo shimano ones
proper legit? What are you? 12?
Stoffendous Oh here we go, grammar and syntax police are cruising RUclips tonight. You should probably think about how many question marks you use before trying to criticise someone's choice of jovial words.
I heard about squirting some "Tri-Flow Super-Lubricant with Teflon" into the cable housing to make them more slippery.
You use the right lever for the front brake? Just a personal preference or is there more behind this? Curious to know more.
cyclingtips.com/2009/05/why-do-brakes-differ/
The same as here in England as Aussies and brits drive on the correct side of the road lol🤣🤣
Paul Fearon on the right side which is the left side lol
0:46 this was drilled into me during my auto mechanic course...the correct term is side cutters, not tin snips :)
Eli Douek check your cable breaks your right hand brake is your back brake your left hand brake is your from brake dust the proper way to set up your brakes
Where the rear brake cable 7:59 enters, do you remove the the rear cable guide? I don’t seem to be able to run the cable across the frame to exit at the rear of the frame. Any advice?
Shane, use caps for the outer cable. Your outer cable will not compress after while, you get less dirt inside and for service get grease there.
Do you mean ferrule? I was wondering about that.
I think there are 6 pieces of stuff in that little plastic bag inside the bag with the cables. What are those for?
Hey Shane, thx for all these cool hacks and tips to make our lives easier. I have 17 TCR Advanced and will be upgrading my drive train, still mechanical, albeit. That said, can you shed some lights as to what I might be facing when replacing gear cables? Are there full length internal cable guides (black liner) that runs the whole length of the front and rear derailleur? How does Giants TCR internal cable interfaces down the bottom bracket? So many variables. Appreciate you response, mate! Cheers
G'day Marc, I'm not sure with the newer model TCRs. Maybe someone who's familiar can chime in here? Mine is 2013 (iirc)
Thanks, Shane. Either way you're awesome and keep 'em coming!
What's again the title for the video regarding the handlebar coating? Only relevant for carbon or aluminium as well? btw glad to see you're still alive after that run from hell around the lake ;)
Preventing Handlebar Corrosion - Bicycle Maintenance ruclips.net/video/7cfqdvbDFMg/видео.html
Thank you!
Shane - Does the older TCR frame like yours have internal liners for the gear cables ? Just about to change mine ...
Thanks
No it doesn't. So get some strong magnets and a lottery ticket! :) (it's not too bad)
Ok thanks for the info 👍👍
I've noticed WTF and HTF are backwards compatible with a lot of my projects.
Hey Shane thanks for the video! Do you know if the newer TCR models have internal liners for the rear brake cable?
I assume so. One for Giant Support to confirm
You’ve been giving Giant free advertisement - they should send you a free bike TCR!
Bike companies don’t want to encourage use of their frames on indoor trainers. As such, bike companies have kept well clear of me to date. I also don’t like my TCR. So this isn’t much of an advertisement. :)
How do you like your Stealth saddle? Can you please do a review on it?
Coming soon.
With the side cutters you are just trimming everything to square at the end? I open up the ends with a pick, but have never cut further after the cable cutters.
Yep.
T 9 on the bars is very interesting, I have never seen that.
More details here: Preventing Handlebar Corrosion - Bicycle Maintenance ruclips.net/video/7cfqdvbDFMg/видео.html
Interesting and very good idea. Personally I don't have that problem, prolly not riding hard enough! LOL. But I have seen bars with this situation. I like your fix / prevention.
Ideally you should tighten and remove play before tapeing them in place?
Sure. A lot of the finer points weren't included.... as mentioned. Not a straight up how to... more a cooking show.
Had it been rear shifting cable replacement, more important :)
Exactly,that is the most important point in getting the brakes done to pro level.The casing almost never can be pushed to its' final seating,you must use the power of brakes to accomplish this before any taping of the casing to the handlebar.So,clamp cable to caliper,pull brake lever with great force to get casing properly seated.Then you can tape the casing to the bar using strapping tape (a million times stronger than scotch tape)after the handlebar tape is secured, a final cable adjustment can be made.Some would find fault with covering bar logo and the finishing tape ending on top,these are cosmetic,the reason your brakes felt sticky to begin with is more than likely due to failure to follow the proper procedure.T-9 is essential for cable lube as well.
@@larrydaniels8976 why would you lube a ptfe cable
I'm assuming there is a cable guide inside the top tube of your frame?
Negative. Magnets help! :)
I think that part is missing from the video
ok.
Question: On the TCR, ever have any problems where the cables enter the frame at the headset tend to destroy the housings? I've got a 2013 Rabobank Edition and I can't get past it. Considering going to Etap. I am using SRAM Red, so maybe the cable tension has something to do with it.
One for a mechanic to look into, preferably one from a Giant dealership. No problems on mine. (or on the 2013 TCR I have)
Nice footage... Thanks Shane.
why scotch tape over electrical? Love your work!
It's what I had on hand.
Does the T9 keep your bartape from adhering properly?
No, it dries nicely.
Do you think we will ever see The Champs Elysees in Zwift?
No
Indeed we did
Use strapping tape not scotch tape. File end of cut cable for smooth end. Use pick to open up liner of housing. Front brake housing is too long. Use torque wrench on brake pinch bolt.
what's the model that stem is?
Your front brake is on the wrong side of the handlebar. It should be on the left so the cable has less of a bend.
Not for Australia. Or the UK. Or NZ.
I would really like to win the 12 days of Christmas Zwift package!
☝️
He’s back in the game!
Try liquid brake cables...
As a tech guy I'm surprised you're not running Di2
I still can't justify the price. One day.... just not soon.
Yeah I'm in the same boat. SRAM Red is more than good enough for me atm...
di2 is so much better when you are racing technical crits and need to change gears often - you just don't have to think as much
Hey shane. When did you get the pro stealth saddle? And how are you finding it?
A few weeks ago. Video soon.
A lot of three letter acronyms, Blah blah blah, blah blah blah, " wtf" hahahaha
Step one.
Don't use coated inners..
Why? They feel so much better.
Joel Smith because they aren't needed if you use good quality stainless and no coatings to foul things up.
They are great but don't last long
I heard something similar
Who needs brakes?? #Zwift