Running My Entire RV including A/C Off of Solar and Boondocking
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- I install a complete solar system on our 27ft travel trailer using 100w solar panels and our Titan solar generator. I have 2,100w of power on the roof! There's nowhere we can't go now and how all the power we need to dry camp/boondock for days or weeks.
We run our fridge, lights, fans, TV, chargers, and even our A/C unit with no problems!
The Titan solar generator makes this install extremely simple. It does about 70% of the work because all I really had to do was install solar panels and run cables. Using the Titan allowed me to not have to find an inverter, charge controller, batteries, battery management system, and many other components because they are built into the Titan itself.
If you're looking to transform your RV, travel trailer, camper, van or whatever vehicle to run off of solar and not have to pay for electricity while traveling, then this is the video you need.
Here are the components used in this video:
(1) Titan+ 2000 Rigid Kit - poweredportabl...
(1) Extra 100w Solar Panel - poweredportabl...
(6) Solar Panel Mounting Brackets - amzn.to/32s8cmU
(1) 12ga. MC4 Cable 70ft - amzn.to/3tTXUY5
(2) 8ga. MC4 Cable 30ft - amzn.to/3tTXUY5
(1) MC4 tool crimper - amzn.to/3rKYYee
(1) Wire Stripper - amzn.to/35dYSnD
(1) MC4 connectors - amzn.to/3rP6Riz
(1) Hemostat 12" - amzn.to/35mxNyT
(4) Dicor caulk LAP sealant - amzn.to/3KBAlJw
(1) Dicor tape - amzn.to/3KFAvzB
(1) Ryobi Caulk Gun - amzn.to/3qZvquh
(1) Klein Tools Wire Fish Tape - amzn.to/3qTvw6y
(1) Volt Meter - amzn.to/3AI58jv
(2) Custom Solar Panel Watt Meter - poweredportabl...
(2) Cable Concealer Wall Mount - amzn.to/3fUZiSc
(1) 12ft Collapsible Extending Ladder - amzn.to/3KC9BZo
Lion Energy LiFePo4 RV Battery 1,300wh - lionenergy.com...
Dump the 1960's tech RV roof AC unit that pulls over 14 amps. Replace it with a 12,000 BTU mini-split that only draws 6.7 Amps max on cool. You would even wind up with room for two additional 100 watt panels. One thing I found, that no one mentions... the panels actually shade the roof and reduce the heat gain, a double plus!!!
That sounds like a brilliant idea. I want to do a video eventually showing how to make an RV MUCH more efficient. They are seriously built as inefficiently as possible. It blows my mind how much power they use when it wouldn't cost much more to make them far more efficient. The industry is designed to force people to stay at camping locations to pay for power. I am definitely interested in a mini split for it.
@@minutemanprep I will also never have a LP gas RV-style frig in my motorhome. One trip to a RV junkyard taught me that. Way too many units there burnt up... and the fire started with the frig. I pulled the dinette and sleeper sofa out on the driver's side. Now there is a 8 cu ft standard house-style chest freezer against the bathroom wall, then a drop-leaf table and chairs, and a recliner loveseat. The freezer draws .62 amps, that's POINT 62 @120 volts AC. And its duty cycle is less than 50%. In place of the wall mounted RV frig/freezer is a 8 cu ft house style frig-only unit. It only draws .72 amps, with a 50% duty cycle. So, for less than a 1.4 amp total draw (15 @ 12 volts DC), I have many times the storage. In fact, I buy my meat (beef, chicken, pork, lamb) in BULK when I find really good quality out west (i.e. 40 lbs of fantastic ground chuck)!!! I also don't trust RV stoves. I pulled mine out, and installed a standard 24" house unit with electronic ignition. It seems that anything with "RV" in its name is a quarter the quality, and three times the cost.
I went totally el-cheapo on my solar. Purchased used commercial panels (9+1 265 watt) from a place down here in Miami. They have much beefier construction than the crap out of China, and have already browned over as much as they ever will (you can find companies that sell used panels and gear almost anywhere). The 9 are connected three sets of three in series (very high voltage and starts charging minutes after sunrise) to three MPPT controllers (also bought used) to a 900 amp/hour @ 12 volt battery bank. Yeah... the standard Trojan 6 volt golf cart batteries purchased new for $92.50 each. I can loose a panel or two, or even a controller, and still be charging at reduced power. The large main inverter (again used) is set to drop off-line at 72% for long battery life. The 10th panel is connected through a separate MPPT controller to a 225 amp/hour battery bank (again standard batteries). When the main inverter drops out, it toggles an auto-transfer switch. This fires up a small inverter (new) on the back-up bank and switches the chest freezer and frig over to run on it. It doesn't happen very often, but it does happen (the 9,000 BTU mini-split in the bedroom is set at 68 degrees all night)!!!
Now, I'm lucky. My old (make that very old) 1991 34 foot Southwind motorhome can handle the weight. But, I removed all the insanely heavy and not very strong chipboard cabinets and built my own. A friend thought I was crazy spending all that money ($7,000 total for everything) on an old motorhome, but I already owned it free and clear. But that included engine work. Plus a totally rebuilt suspension with super heavy duty aftermarket parts (the old P-30 Chevy chassis is the same as the C-3500 one ton truck of the same year) and that included 2" lift springs and shocks front and rear for the rough going out boondocking. The tires??? B.F. Goodrich 14 ply 16 rated commercial jobs. All position in front and traction lug (29/32" tread) in the rear. They are much cheaper than "RV" tires and wear like iron.
You seem to be pretty good at do-it-yourself. Maybe you should be looking into an older Class "A"... but a good one. Mine has the overdrive lock-up converter automatic tranny so it's pretty good on gas (RV roller cam, aftermarket low rise aluminum intake, aftermarket fuel injection, heat-taped headers and 3" full dual exhaust). Oh, and a custom radiator. A full width short grill... and a tall narrow radiator back two feet was how it was built. What idiot engineered THAT??? Also, on my rig, the entire structure is steel, with a fiberglass exterior. Stay away from the wood framed metal sided stuff. BUT... better plan on almost gutting the inside to do it right :(
Thanks Don .. I truly appreciate your insight..💯🇺🇸🤠
@@MatthewWatches I got mine from highseer dot com a couple years ago. They are Pioneer, and were their highest SEER rated units at 22. I got the Pioneer because they were the only company I could find at the time that had a 12,000 BTU in 120 volts, plus they came pre-charged which made the installation much easier and cheaper. With their adapter, I used an AC service kit from Auto Zone they loan out for free to vacuum down the lines and inside unit. But, there are much higher SEER rated units out there now. The higher the SEER rating, the less current draw they will have (and the less solar and batteries you will need). The 12,000 in the front draws a max of 8.4 amps, and the 9,000 in the bedroom draws a max of 5.8 amps on cooling, and 9.8 and 6.9 on heating (they both put out their rated BTU's on heat... a little 1200 watt 5200 BTU space heater draws 10 amps. So the 12,000 puts out 2 1/3 times the heat for slightly less current draw!). I say max because the units ramp the compressor up and down (and the circulation fan) depending on the demand, and shut off completely when the temp in reached. They also start at the lowest compressor current so they are soft start. A big plus is, even in the desert with no one around, you can't hear either unit running (less than 38 db inside on high fan!). You sure as hell can't say that for the RV rooftop units!!!
@@JeffCM1 Well, like I said, take a trip to a RV junkyard and see all the burnt up units. People will start changing their minds since the majority started with the fridge and its standing flame. Plus, if you're out in the desert or down south where it's hot... good luck keeping ice cream frozen on electric even at the highest setting. Not Happening. And, mine drew power all the time to keep up with the heat, a 100% duty cycle. So in my case the 3 times is actually 6 times the power (and it still couldn't keep the ice cream frozen). You can buy compressor conversions for the gas/electric fridges, but they're more expensive than replacing it with an actual electric fridge. Another plus... you can remove the large rooftop vent for the gas/electric fridge. That gives you that much more space for solar panels. In my case, since it was across from the bathroom's skylight, that was room for another 265 watt panel longways and still have a walkway past it to the front!
I also don't trust RV stoves or cooktops, they are really cheaply made. My stove is gas, but it's a standard 24" house unit with electronic ignition. I keep the bottom drawer from opening going down the road the same way I do the fridge door... a piece of velcro adhesive tape on the unit and another folded over itself as a flap on the door. The only gas "RV" unit I still have is the water heater. I haven't heard of one of those causing problems as long as it is properly maintained. However, I did install a 600 watt Hot Rodd (or Hott Rod, can't remember which it is) where the drain plug is normally. I use it in conjunction with the gas which the instruction say you can do. And, I actually hear the gas burner cutting in and out while I shower, so the electric unit is providing most of the heating.
I also rewired the entire 120 volt system on my motorhome. I don't know about other RV's, but mine was wired with standard romex which is used in houses. Romex (solid conductor) is NOT designed to take vibrations or bouncing around. I used 12 gauge SJO cord (heavy extension cord) which has stranded conductors and is designed for vibration and bending and bouncing around. I crimped connectors on with shrink wrap over the connector/wire end. Then I used liquid electrical tape on all the connections so they don't corrode. Overkill??? Maybe. But I know everything is safe when I go to bed at night.
Very cool setup. I too have installed solar panels (8x100 watts) on my trailer roof feeding a Titan installed under the bed. I took a little different approach and mounted my panels onto strut channels, which I attached to the roof with molly bolts to ensure secure panel attachments. I was not comfortable relying on the roof screws going directly into the roof because I could not consistently locate or hit the roof studs. Over time with the vibration and wind forces of travel, OSB may not provide long term screw holding power, and you should always check the panel mounts before you make a trip to ensure they are secure. Mounting the panels to the strut channels also allows me to easily remove the panels without reopening holes in the roof if I ever have a panel failure or need to perform maintenance on the roof. There are two things I would suggest that you consider as safety measures for your roof mounted panels, 1) consider installing a stainless steel safety cable between the panels to prevent a panel from flying off the roof at 70 mph, and 2) when you have more than two strings of series connected panels in parallel, you should install a 10 amp in-line fuse in each series string, to prevent the other parallel strings from back feeding into any potential faults a single panel might develop. Good luck and safe travels!
Bruce, I like your idea of mouting on struts. Can you tell me the specific supplies you used and how you located studs?
Great tips
@@paulmonroe3327 I contacted the manufacture (Forest River in my case) and they sent the roof truss blueprint. You can also use a stud finder like a Tacklife DMS03 or old school tapping. Most of the big box stores only sell steel strut channel. You can order aluminum strut channel online or through a building supply company near you which will cost a bit more but will be much lighter and last longer.
You can also look at traditional solar racking many of them are wind rated to 150+ mph.
This is that I was concerned with. How strong is the roof with all the screws inside. I'll prefer Strut channels too. And good point on the fuse. Very good advice
It is a bit of work, but the panels really are not that hard to remove with a ratcheting wrench. I have taken this on several trips over last year driving about 70mph and in strong headwinds and there's not a single nut or bolt that is loose.
Lock washer goes to nut side or better use nylon lock nuts. And I would add flat washer under nut as well.
The lock washer goes on the nut side. Great video!
Yeah the flat washer and the lock washer go on the nut side.
Might also be better to invert the bolt.
I stopped watching when I realized he has know idea what he's doing.
I had to wonder about the rest of the video from that point forward.
I was just about to comment about that too. Can't trust the rest of the contents of the video after that.
I like the Titan all inclusive idea, no need to shop for imvertor, bms, mppt etc.
That's exactly what I like about it
Thanks for this video Ben. My wife and I just bought a shuttle bus (2012 Chevy Express 3500 with a 6.6 liter turbo desiel V8 and we are using our Titan 1500. I will keep you posted on the progress.
That's awesome! Definitely keep me posted.
Unless the instructions told you to put the split washer and the star washer on the bolt side I believe you installed those incorrectly you should have installed the washers and lock washers on the nut side because the vibration will loosen up the nut on the bottom and you'll lose a panel or two, but double check your instructions on how to install the washers.
Great video!!
Just FYI those cables that go through those roof connections , pack all around those wires with sealer BEFORE you put the nut and grommet on them and tighten them up.
Then seal them again on the outside.
They WILL LEAK.
The water will wick its way down through and in between the conductors.
Thanks. I did go back and 100% sealed up everything on the top including the wiring stuff. Winter is mostly gone now and it went through all winter with no leaks. Glad to see it worked out well.
I love the way he reveals all the mistakes that I would probably make without him doing it first.
Seriously.
Good information about mounting 21 100 solar panels. Thank you for sharing this video with all of us!👍
Thanks for watching! I really enjoyed this project. More to come this spring with the RV!
Really excellent video! I am really impressed with the number of solar panels that you installed and wired up! What a fantastic project.
Tip,
Have a crossbeam, like a small shekf on the back of the panel for tools and parts to sit on while working on the back of a panel.
As apposed to using the panel back like it's a table.
Use a large washer on each side on bracket and solar panel and use the lock washer & nut on panel side, other wise it will pull the bolt head out of the slot in the bracket
You can mark each cable with the mark facing right side up take a pic with your phone being sure to include some of the surrounding area for orientation. Never wonder which cable is which again. ESP since the marker will fade over time.
thx man you are the only one how explained how to run a/c from a to z thx again love from kuwait
You're welcome! And thank you for watching.
Very helpful, thanks !
The lock washer “crush washer” only stops the nut from coming off by Biting in to the back of the nut when it tries to back off. The spring action isn’t what keeps it tight. They will definitely come lose the way you attached them. I’m from the mechanic industry and it’s a Common new guy mistake. Nice setup tho
I was just about to say the same thing. One of these days there is going to be a lot of vibration coming from the solar panels while traveling down the highway at 70 MPH.
I know it probably seems like a troll question but its not. I am not in the mechanic industry but have a few miles on me. What do you suggest as a solution? If the lock washer isn't good enough, then what? I know about double nutting (I know there is a teenager somewhere laughing right now), Loc-Tight, Cotter Pins, etc. Is there something else?
@@mondavou9408 the lock washer will work he just installed the lock washer wrong the lock washer has to go on right next to the nut.
@@lopezinit2998 Thanks. I usually install them that way but have always wondered where the spinning actually happens and where the lock washer should actually be located. ...and that was the end of the wondering *zit* ... ha ha So now that my brain is working, the lock washer sits next to the nut and should "bite" the nut in a way that prevents it from spinning in the loosing direction. I think I got it. Thanks.
Phenomenal video overall and I like how you take constructive criticism and always willing to learn. Again great video and keep em coming
Thanks!
Brave video ...trying something that was a first-time! That is brave and invaluable to newbies like me. More congratulations for allowing the "more technical" to correct you on the "crush washer" placement. We can all adust the order or location of the washers, but without you, we wouldn't have started the project
I really appreciate how you show and explain details. Thank you.
You're welcome and thank you =)
Great informative video, I think this is the way for me to go. I will be purchasing the WeeRoll 7x14 cargo trailer this will be a perfect fit. Than for sharing!
Beautiful job, great display of a functional system that you can actually live off of in a RV! The only thing I would have done is assemble the roof passthrough with the black grommet wet with a silicone to help prevent water ingress.
Use Butyl putty tape under the bracket and self- leveling Dicor on top.
Very helpful! I have the identical Titan power generator/battery combo ordered which should be here by April. I am planning on using 315 Watt panels as well and I will run a 800 watt mini split for A/C Heat. I am counting on the fact that I live in Arizona to juice up the Titan enough that the AC can even run all night. I am thinking I may have to grab another battery to make it a total of 3 for storing enough to run the AC at night. I didnt gather what brand your panels were. I was pretty impressed they didnt Break!
Exactly what I want to do. From end to end. I'm looking for a center pitched RV roof, not a flat roof.
I hope this video helps, good luck! :)
With all your ingenuity you could easily build a tiny home that’s way more insulated and much nicer looking! Then you don’t need so much power. Very informative video, so thanks 👍🏻
Also, what do you think of the roof top AC vs a mini split? I’ve seen higher seers for the mini split, but I have not researched enough .
I used sealant to affix wooden 1x 6s to the roof and screwed ineto the wood.
I’m impressed and you have a lot of money invested Ed on this project. Saw you on LDS Prepper too. Congratulations
Just saw this video. You should have oriented the plastic cowls that you used to route the wires through the roof so that the wires entered from the back of the RV to help protect from rain and hail when traveling. Plus they need to be screwed down, with weather sealing tape underneath and your putty on top. Research how boat yards weather seal their installations.
Thanks for the tip. So far no problems with lots of trips and had winter already passed.
I love the idea of 2kw of electricity.
HOWEVER, putting 160 holes in the roof for the mounting screws would worry me a lot.
I think you can find a way of using adhesives, instead of screws, to mount.
Needs loctite on ALL them bolts !
Blue lock tight
Nylon lock washers will save an indefinite amount of precious time plus are completely reusable. In this case blue lock tight is not the answer.
@@jonny0004 agree but some don’t have bolts that can be nylon so......
Loctite
That a lot of holes in your roof 21 x4 = 84 new holes in the roof to keep up with Great job on install solar I have it on my toy haul I used house panel 2600 watts with 7 panels you will love all they power it so kool
Yes it's a lot of holes which is why I went heavy on the Dicor sealant to make sure there is never a leak. It's been awesome so far and I love having the ability to boondock anywhere.
@@minutemanprep, Dicor is good, but over time, you will probably still need to go through and reseal. The weather does deteriorate that stuff over time and water is relentless. Good luck!
@@briantrout7051 For sure. Thanks for the tips.
I’ve a seen a LOT of solar installation videos in the last four years and I must say this is by far the best I’ve seen yet. Your presentation was spot on, definitely clearly understood, and, quite informative! I will be moving into a Class B camper van soon to go full time, and, although I plan to have plenty of solar I will be going with much fewer amount of panels but each having the same wattage as several of yours combined. Congratulations on a job well done! Stay safe and God Bless! Waving from Houston, Texas! ~Jim~
Thank you very much. I lived in Spring, TX for quite some time. Good to hear from a fellow Houstonian.
@@minutemanprep > where are you living now? Not being nosey, just curious!
@@TOTALLYRELAXED South East Idaho =). But we usually make our way to Texas at least once a year for a visit.
@@minutemanprep Good men always make it home occasionally! Idaho is beautiful....I frequented that state many times during my 38 years as an OTR coast to coast truck driver. I wasn’t too crazy about the speed limits for big trucks, but, I loved the scenery though! I’ll be visiting Idaho again soon once I go BACK on the road full time to live! Stay safe my friend!
friend of mine did the same thing but drove through an freak hailstorm and lost his panels then he remade it using lexan cover.
I have a 40 foot RV. I have a bunch of panels. I need to make a map of my roof and do just what you did with the paper,
It is really helpful to get a plan on paper like that. Best of luck =)
@@minutemanprep thanks . It’s a project a year in waiting. New inverter and LiPos are done. This is the last detail. Wanted to tell you. If you did series the whole roof and used Schottky diodes at the in and out of every panel, the shade would not bother the overall voltage. Look it up, you will see:
@@christopherrasmussen8718 That's very cool I'm looking into it now.
Dam you can light that thing up like vegas with that many panels
The shade from the solar panels will help with keeping sun’s heat from passing through roof.
I thought so also. If it does, I can't tell the difference, it's simply hot inside on hot days.
Sadly, his video missed many key elements that makes the system unsafe. He does not understand electricity and doesn't know how to read the display on the inverter. There's no way anyone will get 2000 watts out of a 2100 watt array on a cloudy day, especially when it's flat and not oriented to the sun. The bulk of the power was coming from the batteries and would not last all day like he's selling it.
I can say this because I am an electrician with a back ground in solar design and construction.
crush washer? I think you mean split washer or lock washer.
I'd also recommend cleaning the roof with something before applying Dicor Lap Sealant. It's pretty sticky stuff, but if you want to be 100% leak proof, go the extra mile.
I used some windex and paper towels on my van's painted roof.
Nice set up, congrats... Keep posting how the system works. The titan may have issues running heat/AC during night time, not a lot of storage.
Yeah dude your lock washer always goes with the nut not under the bolt head
I added a mini split - super quiet, I have only 1480 in solar with 3 battle born batteries
Where did you mount your mini-split? I want to add one to my RV. It saves a lot of energy, is much quieter, and works better in my opinion.
@@minutemanprep I put on my bumper
Will make a video soon
But they have them where the outdoor piece goes in the place of your current ac and the blower piece gets mounted on the wall
Lots of work but doable
They come with even two handlers for larger RV
@@AskRemy That's really cool. I'd love to see your setup when you get your video done.
Thanks for this! I watched in preparation to doing this on a brand new Solitude!
Usually I would put the lock washer against the nut not the bolt head.
Get a mini-split. Less power, offers heat, too, and remove the AC off the roof so your solar panels don't have a shadow from the AC unit blocking some of that sunlight. Oh, and a mini-split is quieter, too.
I have been looking at different ones to put in the RV. Do you have any to recommend I look at?
Fantastic manthat was very good very informative I appreciate it I wish I would have had this 2 years ago when I installed the solar system in my motorhome
They make a replacement vent cover so you can put panels over them.
Do you have a link? That sounds like it would be helpful to everyone who sees the video and reads the comments.
Lock washer on nut side, add flat washers to top and bottom to stop the bolt from pulling thru frame, blue lock tight, or locking nuts, and you should add some type of windbreak to the front of your RV to lower wind upthrust on the panels or foam panels under each to stop air from getting under the panels the roof screws are not strong enough when driving down the road in high winds. Be safe and good luck.
Will it hurt my Titan to show that I can run my air-conditioner in my camper off the Titan if I only have one battery and a 1000 watts of solar?
Nope =)
Have you ever considered a Mabru AC unit? They are primarily used on boats/yachts, providing both heat and 12+k BTU air conditioning. They are expensive, but they CANNOT be beat for what they are capable of. They are the only true DC powered units, and draw a mere 20-30 amps while providing air con. I'm planning on installing one In my sailboat.
That's a great idea. I ended up installing a MR Cool DIY Mini Split that we use now and it's incredible. We ran it for 9 days straight while on a trip and never ran out of power.
just wondering if butyl tape under the brackets instead of Dicor would have been the better water proofing method? Also maybe using Eternabond tape over and around the brackets and Dicor to ensure water proofing? Also why didn't you use the refrigerator vent to run wires down thru?
It's been about six months since I did this install. The RV has gone through rain, snow, and ice all winter long and has zero leaks. So far the dicor has been more than adequate to keep it water tight and everything holding tight to the roof.
Should put the crush washer on the nut side.
You are doing similar to what I plan to do with my rig. I need to watch your situation to see if I could apply it to my rig.
It's been 18 months since I did that, still no issues.
You should have attached everything on the roof and then you would have only had to fish 2 wires to the inside a positive and negative you will still get leaks because there is space between all of those wires
Dicor has a lot of water in it and shrinks needing more maintenance. Look into AFCAT hardly any water and lasts much much longer. Adheres to most roof membranes.
That is a lot of solar, nice work
Thanks. I'll have an update video coming out soon.
Yes Thks for video explains everything pretty much what I needed to know about a Rv setup , a video I’ve been looking for, great job
I'm glad the video helped.
Awesome video man
I subbed your channel because of this video. It's my first visit to your channel. Excellent info. I will be sharing it with others.
Thanks! I will be doing a video soon where I install a 9k BTU mini split and power it off of that solar setup to heat and cool the entire rv.
@@minutemanprep One would think that they'd have invented an AC that doesn't consume that much power by now eh?
@@GodPlanted Well the mini splits are one and I have heard and rooftop ACs that are very efficient using DC power but they are very pricey. Hence why I a going to do the mini split
@@minutemanprep Do you have an Amazon link to one you'd recommend?
@@GodPlanted I've only personally used the Mr Cool mini splits and had good success with those, otherwise, any other one should be fine. I did the DIY MR Cool option because I then don't have to hire an HVAC guy to charge the lines. So that's what I would recommend. Unless you're referring to roof top DC air conditioners? If so here's one that I've heard good things about: www.recpro.com/recpro-12v-rv-air-conditioner/
Great video. I’m catching up on the videos. I heat water the same as you do in your other video with a bucket heater.
Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching.
the weight of ALL the panels is 336lbs@16 lbs each, this will impact the maximum load you can have in the camper when you are traveling down the road.
16lbs x 21 panels = 336lbs. Just for reference, the 55-gallon freshwater tank weighs 440lbs. By not having any water fresh tank or black tank there is plenty of weight savings while driving. When not driving, not a big deal. Plus, we plan to install a compost toilet so we won't even have black water, just gray water. That makes it easy to dispose of just the gray water and not have that weight while driving either.
How are you drilling into the roof? Are the screws self-tapping into a plywood roof under the TPO membrane? How did you make sure the screw didn't pop through the roof to be visible or exposed on the interior of the RV roof?
The screws are self tapping, going into the plywood roof below the membrane. There is about 2 to 2.5 inches of speace in the ceiling and the screws weren't longer than that so there was no worry of them going through.
"Locking washer". Great video!
Nice setup.
I'm surprised you used so many panels. I used 3 REC 330 watt panels to power everything in our trailer including the A/C, saved a lot of space, wiring and simplified the installation. Each REC panel cost less than three of your panels for a similar amount of power. I also had a panel come off at 60 mph, it flew across two lanes of traffic without breaking.
One of the reasons I dislike the larger panels is because they will have more wind picking them up as well as less mounts holding them on. Each 100w panel is less than 1/3 of the wind resistance as a single 330w panel and over 3x more secure to the roof because the mounts have less wind and space to handle. I've been in over 80mph winds now with mine and have had zero issues.
You've done what everyone will be asking! Thanks. Big ask: please give REGULAR UPDATES on how the system is performing! The specs and features of this system are awesome. BUT WILL IT STAND THE TEST OF TIME! You are the guinea pig. Please keep us updated! This system is EXPENSIVE!.
Next: I don't have the roof space for 2000 Watts of panels. Can I combine 10 rigid panels on the roof (I could get 12) , with 5-10 flex panels on the ground, or hanging somewhere?
Thanks. I'll definitley make an update video. We've been RVing a ton of times already this year and have not had to worry about power =). Yes you can combine roof and ground panels both flexx and rigid.
Battery powered caulking guns make me laugh
Amazing.
Hey, your setup is quite good. You are trying to bring usability to your RV from one direction. A equally rated BTU output mini split will drop ac power demand by half. A Iceco fridge will not draw more than 60 watts ever. Money, money money.
Thanks for the suggestion. I already have a new 12v fridge that I am hoping to install this spring and I am looking into mini splits for the AC. Any recommended mini splits?
@@minutemanprep I installed a Pioneer mini split upstairs in my home. It was 19 seer and works great. On their website you can dig around and find the power consumption. The chart is at max rate, the 930 watts is in heat mode, the AC mode would be lower. The smallest Diamante system is plenty for your RV. The also offer ceiling interior units, not just wall interior units. Around $ 700. Mount on back of RV with a 10 inch clearance. I would create a vinyl cover for when rolling. Diamante unit comes with a sixteen foot lead set.
Also a 12v mini split is available for RVs. the exterior unit can be roof mounted. Do not know much about it, it is pricey. you can find it on Amazon.
@@lucastherexcat Awesome I'll look into that.
THANK U SO MUCH!!! THIS IS AWESOME!!! AMAZING “SOLAR SYSTEM@🤣👍🏻
Good video,always wondered how much solar it would take to run everything and A/C. I have a 30 ft so I think I’ll try this system.
That'll be great! You can find the systems at poweredportablesolar.com/shop/
Great video.. Im in the process of doing the same thing.
OK. I'm dumb and no nothing about solar. Why exactly did you want to use the watt meters???
Great question. Simply so I could get feedback on how much power I was making off the panels. The screen technically shows that but it shows the total input - total output and is the net in or out amount of power. The Watt Meter let's me see exactly what the panels are making.
I think that is excessive, you are trying to live in a mobile house. My idea is to have about 300 watts, a small inverter and a pair of 100 Ahr batteries. I can get by without so much power. One of the things I don't like is how top heavy your rig will be now, the other is the high costs, don't like all the holes in the roof either. But, hey it's your rig :)
😄👍Good Stuff, Great Tips
Wow... This is an extreme use of solar panels. I can see using it on a structure with the space to mount the panels, but having a hard time thinking out drilling 168 screws into my RV roof plus access holes. Its going to be hard to do any maintenance work up there ever. I love the idea of solar for charging up the onboard system. I installed a flexable panel 100w (no holes drilled and routed wires through the refridge vent) this weekend because I like the idea of the batteries being topped off while we are sitting still. But what if you come into a week or two of cloudy or rainy weather? Still seems like you need propane for your systems, and an IC generator for backup. Economically solar for primary power is still really expensive and unreliable. It would take many years before the cost would break even, and thats if none of the panels fail. But... On the side of being clean and green I love your spirit. Awesome project.
I purposely bought my used travel trailer with the intention to drill the holes in the roof to mount the panels. It's been nearly a year since I did and I have had zero issues or leaks. We have been on many camping trips with it now including 2 week long trips with no grid or gas generator power and this system did incredible. It is scary to put that many holes in the roof but so far so good.
@@minutemanprep I wish you the best of luck. Love to hear what ideas you have for your next project. I'm still trying to decide if I want to upgrade to a LiFe batteries.
Out of curiosity, do you know how much weight you added with all those panels?
It was about 300lbs total. I've had it for over a year now, not a single leak or issue after many trips. Just last year we took it out on two or three week long trips and have had no issues.
@@minutemanprep Wow, I thought it would be much heavier than that! Very good setup.
Thanks for getting back to me.
Cheers! 🍻
@@active4delta No problem, thanks for your interest.
You can get ~2100 W solar resource by just using 6 x 400 W or 8 x 400 W solar panels and will also be less weights to carry on top your your RV.
as shown in the video, using larger panels will not work because they do not allow for different spacing around the objects on the roof. That is the advantage of the 100w panels is I can place them in different configurations. Also, the 100w panels will have less surface area per panel to allow for wind to try and pull them up (smaller sail) plus there will be many times more screws into the roof to hold the panels down in windy situations so they are more secure.
Yes you can use larger panels, but in my situation, larger panels actually prevented me from fitting more wattage on the roof and would've increased my chances of having a panel fly off which is why I prefer the 100w panels. Also it's much easier to set up and move a 16lb panel rather than a 45lb panel. Three 100w panels weigh nearly the exact same as one 300w panel.
I have a DIY solar setup as well and my 4.7cu fridge uses only 15watts throughout the day maybe the occasional 80watts to cool it down if its hot out.
disregard lmfao paused the video right before he said this
What type of roof is that ?
Awesome🔥🔥🔥
Great video thank you.
There are wire numbers and letters wraps for marking the wires.
Titan is a neat product :)
Great Job. I would like to know what was the total cost for everything?
Thanks. Titan+ 2000 Rigid Kit $7,595 + 1 More Rigid Panel $169.95 + Roof Mount Brackets (6pks) $150 + Dicor Caulking $38 + RV Roof Tape 50ft Roll $50 + Small Extras makes a total of about $8,000
I'm trying to do the same thing to my R.V . How much for doing that?
I installed a window ac unit , have the Midea 8000 btu which has an inverter and i use the dry mode which uses even less power and accompany with a fan in my airstream and its very comfortable. My airstream is stationary as its my office. But i will by an rv soon and try to install this same window ac , perhaps where the microwave is and then use solar to see if it’s possible to boon dock. I wonder if its better to spend the money to get flat thin panels so it helps with gas mileage?
That's a great idea to put a window a/c unit where the microwave goes, very clever. Don't get the thin panels, they have many issues. Just go with the rigid panels and they'll last you forever.
Wish I could have you come do ours on our mci bus build
Lock washer should go on
with the Nut, not on with the bolt
Can you tell me if the point zero energy solar system still the best choice for RV today after 3 years from the day you installing it? Thanks in advance.
Where it is a great choice, I cannot say it's the best choice. It depends on what your needs are. But I will be switching to the Apollo coming out in a few weeks. It had some hiccups when starting out earlier this year but it has finished it's testing and is now the only unit I'm aware of that is fully tested and certified. The Apoll now has zero issues. I will have tons of videos about the Apollo in a few weeks. You're welcome to send me an email and I can help you figure out what you need too. info@poweredportablesolar.com
Get you a 20+ seer mini split. Delete that rooftop
I do have the Titan with three batteries and five solar panels sometimes it'll be like 60 or 70%, but in but when it's charging it doesn't get to a full 100% do you have that problem with five solar panels or do I need more solar panel.
Yes you need more panels. That is not a lot of panels for 3 batteries. We can always help you with that to get the right ones and most power. Reach out to us at info@poweredportblesolar.com.
I read a review of the Titan where they said it had very loud fan noise running a refrigerator in a blackout. What is your experience of how noisy it is running under your bed?
I'll be showing the TItan under the RV bed in one of my upcoming videos but I truly have not had any issue with the fans. Even sleeping at my cabin with the Titan under the bed and next to the bed it's not so loud that it bothers me. I truly don't notice it. Some people are more sensitive to noises especially when sleeping and I'm generally not extra sensitive to noises like that at night. Something has to be REALLY loud like an old school HEPA air filter to keep me up.
Great job, wish I was there to help so I can learn hands-on, thank you.
How are you gonna walk to maintain the panels
Great video. Love all the detail and the complete process. Thank you. I’m curious why you didn’t locate the 4-to-1 junction boxes on the roof by each cluster of solar panels to save power and have fewer wires to feed through the roof.
I wanted the wires inside so that if I had to work on them I didn't have to be on the roof. That way they could be worked on either out the rain, wind, snow or hot sun. I'm glad you liked the video, thank you.
Minute Man Prep Makes sense. Thanks for the quick reply and thanks again for the video.
The air gap under the panels will look like a luxury condo to bees and birds. Will you screen the perimeter?
Nope. Just gonna live with it. We didn't have any issues at all this year surprisingly.
I noticed that you had your solar panels straight does it make a difference if it's slanted or straight to get more energy from your solar panels thank you
Nope not at all. They'd perform better if they were up at angle but that's not really possible on the roof so they're all flat and it doesn't matter which way they're oriented.
Looks cool i really love the titan. Maybe you also could clean the panels for more efficiency:)
fate Unbound did a video on this very thing. He tested dirty panels and clean panels - there was no measurable difference in power. I thought it made a difference, turns out I was wrong, as are you.
Why not caulk over the screw heads to absolutely make sure no leaks happen?
Because the screw heads already have water tight gaskets and the dicor caulking naturally was surrounding any potential water intrusion as well. It definitely wouldn't hurt to add more to the heads but was excessive so I didn't. It's gone through two winters now and still now issues at all.
My question is how much battery & solar panels and inverter do I need for 83” long trailer pleaseeee I’m stupid to this type of things, I will be running Apple home computer & full size fridge & stove & 2 bug screen tv & hair blow dry and lights, Apple TV & Mac Pro laptop & cell phones & 2 fireplace & ps5 and washer and dryer in the DIY tiny house that is made out of shipping container, I want the feeling of a house powering please help I’m so clueless, I don’t want to over buy nor under buy
I'm assuming you actually mean a 38ft long trailer not an 83ft long trailer but it ALL depends. That's the true answer. It all depends on what you want to run and for how long. Anything electric heat is pretty much a no-go for solar. That may include your stove, fireplaces, washer (water heater), and dryer. If all of that was run off of propane heat then you could very realistically use solar for everything.