No thank you! Makes me so happy that I could be of service and thank you for sharing your feedback it means the world. Do you have any scenario you would like me to cover in a future video?
Thank you for explaining this better than any other video that I have watched. It actually makes sense now in my mind, I was so confused before. Hats off to you!!
I just bought the R6 and your videos are amazing. The individual who I bought the camera from just couldn't understand the potential of this great camera and thus decided to sell it. Lucky me! You are helping me get the most out of this camera with the best set-up for capturing amazing photo details with this let's say "camera hack". Keep up the great videos I am a fan.
Hey Per, I just bought the Canon R6. I just subscribed to your channel as well, since it is just the informations I needed for a good start and even more. Thanks for all your videos, including thoses that I'm about to watch ! Cheers from Canada
Awesome, thank you! And thank you for your trust. Let me know if there is anything I can help you with or anything you want me to cover in a future video. Got lots in the making. Cheers from Sweden :)
Seriously, you have just made me a very happy man, I've watched countless videos on this subject and I've changed the way I shoot now. Thank you so much and best wishes from Scotland UK.
This confused me so much at first and I had to read a lot of material to understand the camera better. Now it all just makes sense, thanks a lot for the video.
@@persvanstrom Thank you very much for asking. I feel comfortable now with the settings, now I just need to train my fingers to find the buttons easier :)
Hey at 4:09 you talking about spot focus but icon you set is 1-point AF so which is correct, that what you set or what you talk about - spot focus (icon left from what you marked) ? great merit by the way
Great Video, as a side note, this amazing feature is also available with Canon EOS RP, so I am guessing it is also available with any camera of Canon's that has both AF ON button on the back and eye detection. I set mine up the same way after watching this video. AF ON normal and * set to eye outfocus. I imagine this will be very helpful in the future as this was a conundrum of mine having to switch between the two during shooting
Great info. I've been shooting back button focus, I think I've been doing it wrong. I've been depressing af-on button when in focus I release the af-on button, then press the shutter button. Listening to you I should'nt release, but continue holding it down while pressing the shutter; is this correct?
Thanks for your great tutorial AF video Just need one thing regarding the AF how to stop eye tracking completely just as not excising in the camera ! Because it’s fail sometimes Just need to focus to the whole scene in the Foreground and background only ! Best wishes 🌸🙏🏼
Not sure I understand exactly. You don't want to use eye tracking at all because sometimes it fails? I feel it often "fails" by picking the wrong eye etc, but thats when I press spot focus as the whole idea of dual button back button focus. If you wan't to get rid of eye tracking all together, just don't do a dual button setup, but rather just set your preferred AF method in meny 2. Otherwise let me know if I missunderstand and I will try my best to help. While on the subject. Anything else you want me to cover in a future video?
Brilliant video. So I have R6 mk 2. If I press the * it is eye or subject tracking and servo. If the camera puts a blue box around one person but I want the other person tracked, how do I change what the camera is tracking, please?
AF Point Selection and the joystick, but that is hard when your thumb is already pressing the BackButton. The standard setting is you press AF Point Selection, then while that is pressed, you swith AF focus point with the joystick. If wanting to stay in Back button, then you could move AF Point Selection to a button you can press with for example your pinky or left hand. Or just have a C1-C3 setting with continues AF Eye Tracking and then you can use the standard AF-Point Selection button and the joystick.
I’ll make a vid on that as well 👍 but I’m shooting mostly corporate interviews and events with my R6 currently. So Ninja V and click and forget. Not that much to fiddle with hence pretty much standard for video
Fortunately, the R5 has made BBF obsolete. The "standard functionality" now beats BBF hands down. Finally! But thanks for covering how to do it anyway.
Thank you. Yes, you should be able to save your custom buttons for different Custom Shooting Modes as well, except for the M-Fn bar, which is global. You should also ensure you don't have auto update enabled as that will keep overriding your settings. Here is a video I did about Custom Shooting modes ruclips.net/video/0JWj1JnZenA/видео.html Just let me know if there is anything I can do to help
I don't have a Z5 to test with, but any camera with programable buttons should be able to do this. The options in the camera might be named differently, but the concept works for any camera :)
Technically yes, but practically I would say no. We often need more control in our AF. Either sticky continuous eye-tracking or full manual focus and none of those scenarios would be viable with BBAF. Did that answer your question?
@@persvanstrom kind of. I’m trying to figure out the best way to use autofocus when I’m filming groups of people and not have it just focus on one person. And use maybe any costume setting to achieve going from people to maybe objects or things.
@@magicari could be hard to solve with AF. Going from one object to another (people can be objects) is what's called focus racking and is most often done manually. The R6 lacks good exposure tools so for a scenaro like that I would prob go with an external monitor that has focus tools. One way you could prob do this with BBF is with fairly slow AF settings, so when you go from AF eye to manual on an object (you can preset your single focus box on a cross of 3/3 grid (I often do) and then when you press BBF for spot focus your camera should refocus, but much slower. Set up an tripod and stage a scene and test different speed settings until you are happy with the results
The main advantage of decoupling autofocus from the shutter button is so that the photographer can leave the camera in continuous autofocus, yet still be able to focus and recompose (with the subject off centre) when necessary, by simply letting go of the AF-On button on the back of their camera. I have been perfectly capable of locking focus and recomposing through the years. The “magic” simply comes from the AF-Lock button, or in my case, the AF-On button, that is configured to serve as a dedicated AF-Lock button instead. With normal use of your shutter release button, let's say a subject is stationary all you need do,is press rear button with thumb to disable a.f. Then if it moves just release the rear button to start focus tracking. Easy peasy...very few professional photographers use back button for focusing. Moreover a more important use of a rear button is to have it programmed to One Shot/Ai Servo switch, or on Canon to Register Recall Function. Besides all that: Why use two fingers to do what can be accomplished with just one finger.
All options that works for you is a great option :) Personally I don't like either, battery, heat or noise of servo and I also like to focus on both eyes and subjects. Back button autofocus gives me that. So that is my solution. I'm glad you found yours :) Nice share, thx for that m8
Exactly that. I often alter between spot focus and back button AF-On while composing. When camera locks on what I like, then I just fire away. If subject moves, camera still tracks as long as you keep your focus button pressed.
BACK BUTTON FOCUS: Today's modern DSLR / MIRRORLESS cameras, back button focus is really not necessary. When the back button was useful was at a time when the a.f. points were limited to such a small portion on the viewfinder screen. Like when 9 points were all that was available. Today, most professional photographers use back buttons for many other options. I never use the back button for focusing. Generally, I leave tracking on and eye detection off since most of my wildlife is moving. On the R7 at least, I've found that Eye Detection isn't as consistent as it is on my R3/R5, so for Birds in flight or rapidly moving animals it's better to be able to quickly get on target and let tracking follow the subject. I get a higher keeper rate this way. For static/perched animals, I usually have time to toggle Eye Detection on and if it is still having difficulty latching onto the eye, I can always turn tracking off. Today the main advantage of decoupling autofocus from the shutter button is so that the photographer can leave the camera in continuous autofocus, yet still be able to focus and recompose (with the subject off center) when necessary, by simply letting go of the AF-On button on the back of their camera. I have been perfectly capable of locking focus and recomposing through the years. The “magic” simply comes from the AF-Lock button, or in my case, the AF-On button, that is configured to serve as a dedicated AF-Lock button instead. With normal use of your shutter release button, let's say a subject is stationary. All you need to do is press the rear button with thumb to disable a.f. Then, if it moves, just release the rear button to start focus tracking. Easy peasy... very few professional photographers use back-button for focusing, measly to change some settings in the A.F. Moreover a more important use of a rear button is to have it programmed to One Shot/Ai Servo switch, eye detection on/off,start/stop subject tracking or on Canon to Register Recall Function. Also possible to program a rear button to a single point a.f. selection or any one of the cluster boxes. With today's DSLR'S / MIRRORLESS, the possibilities are numerous. My r3 has numerous options for a.f. operational interfaces. Using my eye , rear lcd touch screen, joystick or top and rear dials to select movement of where to start focus. My r5 and r7 have quite a few options as well. Besides all that: Why use two fingers to do what can be accomplished with just one finger.
Nice input, I need to try some of this, I took almost 100k photos last year, so will be hard to retrain that muscle-memory. For me the swich between AF/continous/eye tracking to spot focus has landed me some really successful photos that I wouldn't have landed otherwise. Where I can choose to focus on a none-human object while I have people in the scene as an example. Still very interesting to learn new things, so I really appreciate your input m8. I can feel a new video or two from this :) Both R5 and R3 on on my list for dream camera, how do you like them? What is best with them?
@persvanstrom point well taken... no pun intended..(ha - ha) Single point / spot focus is definitely a great way to use auto focus tracking start. I've noticed that when I'm using the r3 flexible zone points, if the subjects' eyes are small in the viewfinder, as good as its a.f. is, the r3 can have even have problems locking on to the eyes. And I must hit the a.f. points selection swith and use the multi function button to quickly switch to single spot or single point to start the tracking-lock on.
Since the shutter button has to "pass" through the half-press point when taking a picture, will it not trigger metering+exposure lock thereby canceling any previous exposure lock (say for backlit situation)? For that reason, I've got my video record button set to perform exposure lock but maybe with what you're saying, I can free up my red button :-)
@@persvanstrom BTW I just tried your solution and answered my own question. What you're suggesting is holding down the shutter button to keep the exposure locked. That works but can be a bit tricky to pull off all the time. I will certainly be trying that as well. Thanks again for the tip!
Brilliantly helpful but the pointless, annoying background music is maddening. Please, we don’t want it, your voice and instructions are perfect without it, thanks.
This is the best video that explains back button auto focus. Short and breif. Thank you 😊
I've watched a bunch of videos about back button focus but this is the FIRST to explain it to me properly. Thank you!
No thank you! Makes me so happy that I could be of service and thank you for sharing your feedback it means the world. Do you have any scenario you would like me to cover in a future video?
I feel the same! I was so confused before now I get it!
Thank you for explaining this better than any other video that I have watched. It actually makes sense now in my mind, I was so confused before. Hats off to you!!
@@cybellejones9227 my pleasure ❤️
Brilliant! Thank you for this, I just learned so much in such a short burst you've helped me with things I've been battling with for years.
That makes me more happy than you can imagine. Thank you for sharing ❤️
I just bought the R6 and your videos are amazing. The individual who I bought the camera from just couldn't understand the potential of this great camera and thus decided to sell it. Lucky me! You are helping me get the most out of this camera with the best set-up for capturing amazing photo details with this let's say "camera hack". Keep up the great videos I am a fan.
You are so kind to say that ❤️🙏 Thank you ⭐️
Hey Per, I just bought the Canon R6. I just subscribed to your channel as well, since it is just the informations I needed for a good start and even more. Thanks for all your videos, including thoses that I'm about to watch !
Cheers from Canada
Awesome, thank you! And thank you for your trust. Let me know if there is anything I can help you with or anything you want me to cover in a future video. Got lots in the making. Cheers from Sweden :)
Thank you for explaining this better than any other video that I have watched
That makes me so happy to hear. Thank you for saying that and I'm glad I could help :) Anything else you would like me to cover in a future video?
Seriously, you have just made me a very happy man, I've watched countless videos on this subject and I've changed the way I shoot now. Thank you so much and best wishes from Scotland UK.
Makes me super glad to hear. How’s Scotland?
@@persvanstrom Probably the wetest summer we've had in years!
Got a wedding tomorrow and will use this. Thank you again for explaining it so easily
This confused me so much at first and I had to read a lot of material to understand the camera better. Now it all just makes sense, thanks a lot for the video.
It makes me glad it helped. Anything you still feel is confusing that I can help with?
@@persvanstrom Thank you very much for asking. I feel comfortable now with the settings, now I just need to train my fingers to find the buttons easier :)
Oh wow. I think I finally understood this. Many thanks!
Glad to hear
Excellent video. Did this on my EOS R.
Thx m8, glad I could be of service
Today I got my new r5 and the first thing I changed was the autofocus to the two back buttons I love it thanks again ❤
Oh, R5. Congratulations and welcome to the family ❤️
Perfect! I just rented the R6 and so excited that I can still use the eye tracking even with BB focusing. Very helpful and easy to follow! Thanks!
I’m so glad it helped and thank you for sharing. I hope you will love the R6.
I just added eye focus to my star button. I cannot wait to try it out.
How did it go?
@@persvanstrom Pretty cool feature. Loving it.
Hey at 4:09 you talking about spot focus but icon you set is 1-point AF so which is correct, that what you set or what you talk about - spot focus (icon left from what you marked) ? great merit by the way
Bruh! This is an amazing video and I can't wait to try it out. Thanks!
Thank you 🙏 I hope it turns out as amazing as it did for me when I first discovered this technique
@@persvanstrom keep up the good work 👍🏾
@Street Clips Likewise and thank you
Just grabbed this camera for Christmas. Looking forward to setting focus this way.
Congratulations 👍❤️ to your camera.
Wow you delivery is absolutely bang on and very insightful …. Great content! ❤
That was very inspiring to hear and thank you very much for saying so. Anything you are curious about for me to cover in a future video?
So helpful. Thank you!
I’m glad you liked it 🙏 Let me know if there’s anything else I should cover in a future video? Something you would like to know? 👍
Hello
Thanks have now changed my autofocus to two back buttons
Hope I can Handel it😊
Oh, cool 😎 Welcome to the dark side 😉 Let me know if I can help you with anything
Big thanks. This should be the default settings! 😃 Keep these tutorials coming.
Will do sir and really appreciate your support
Thanks for that great explanation.
Thank you for watching 🙏👍❤️
Great Video, as a side note, this amazing feature is also available with Canon EOS RP, so I am guessing it is also available with any camera of Canon's that has both AF ON button on the back and eye detection. I set mine up the same way after watching this video. AF ON normal and * set to eye outfocus. I imagine this will be very helpful in the future as this was a conundrum of mine having to switch between the two during shooting
Great info 💪
can I switch eyes with the AE in this settings?
HI. Great video and tutorial. to assign 2nd ''star'' button is possible for 90D? thanks, Tom
I don't own a 90D so can't say for sure, but if you can program buttons, I don't see why not?
How do you change the focus spot with the joystick if your thumb is in use holding down one of the buttons?
I can't 😔 but often I just need to compose the shot by first placing the fucus point and then executing with focus button
Great info. I've been shooting back button focus, I think I've been doing it wrong. I've been depressing af-on button when in focus I release the af-on button, then press the shutter button. Listening to you I should'nt release, but continue holding it down while pressing the shutter; is this correct?
The half press your metering, so dreads a little on the scenario. If I refocus on the same subject I rarely let go of shutter. Just like the opposite
Thanks for your great tutorial AF video
Just need one thing regarding the AF
how to stop eye tracking completely just as not excising in the camera !
Because it’s fail sometimes
Just need to focus to the whole scene in the
Foreground and background only !
Best wishes 🌸🙏🏼
Not sure I understand exactly. You don't want to use eye tracking at all because sometimes it fails? I feel it often "fails" by picking the wrong eye etc, but thats when I press spot focus as the whole idea of dual button back button focus. If you wan't to get rid of eye tracking all together, just don't do a dual button setup, but rather just set your preferred AF method in meny 2.
Otherwise let me know if I missunderstand and I will try my best to help. While on the subject. Anything else you want me to cover in a future video?
Informative video, New subscriber here. Keep up the good work.
Much appreciated 🙏🧡 Any particular video you would like me to create?
@@persvanstrom I'm waiting on my R6 as we speak, if you get your hands on the R7 and compare both that will be great.
Brilliant video. So I have R6 mk 2. If I press the * it is eye or subject tracking and servo. If the camera puts a blue box around one person but I want the other person tracked, how do I change what the camera is tracking, please?
AF Point Selection and the joystick, but that is hard when your thumb is already pressing the BackButton. The standard setting is you press AF Point Selection, then while that is pressed, you swith AF focus point with the joystick.
If wanting to stay in Back button, then you could move AF Point Selection to a button you can press with for example your pinky or left hand. Or just have a C1-C3 setting with continues AF Eye Tracking and then you can use the standard AF-Point Selection button and the joystick.
thx for the insights! as a R6 user, would you recommend shown button configs also for the movie mode?
I’ll make a vid on that as well 👍 but I’m shooting mostly corporate interviews and events with my R6 currently. So Ninja V and click and forget. Not that much to fiddle with hence pretty much standard for video
Wonderful!
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent instruction-though it was confusing as the speaker seemed to say “out of focus’ instead of “auto focus.”
Fortunately, the R5 has made BBF obsolete. The "standard functionality" now beats BBF hands down. Finally! But thanks for covering how to do it anyway.
Care to explain why? You sparked my curiosity 😊❤️🙏 and TY
Thanks for this useful video. Do you think that we can do this buttons layout on C1 on a R7 and keep the original buttons layout on original modes ?
Thank you. Yes, you should be able to save your custom buttons for different Custom Shooting Modes as well, except for the M-Fn bar, which is global. You should also ensure you don't have auto update enabled as that will keep overriding your settings. Here is a video I did about Custom Shooting modes ruclips.net/video/0JWj1JnZenA/видео.html Just let me know if there is anything I can do to help
@@persvanstrom Thank you very much for this advice. I will test that soon.
Can this method be used on Nikon mirrorless cameras?
I have a Z5.
I don't have a Z5 to test with, but any camera with programable buttons should be able to do this. The options in the camera might be named differently, but the concept works for any camera :)
When i put my EOS R onto spot focus it removes the option for eye AF, is there a way around or something I'm not doing?
They counter out each other. It’s either spot or eye, That’s why dual back button auto focus is so good. It gives the option to do both
does this method work for shooting video also??
Technically yes, but practically I would say no. We often need more control in our AF. Either sticky continuous eye-tracking or full manual focus and none of those scenarios would be viable with BBAF. Did that answer your question?
@@persvanstrom kind of. I’m trying to figure out the best way to use autofocus when I’m filming groups of people and not have it just focus on one person. And use maybe any costume setting to achieve going from people to maybe objects or things.
@@magicari could be hard to solve with AF. Going from one object to another (people can be objects) is what's called focus racking and is most often done manually. The R6 lacks good exposure tools so for a scenaro like that I would prob go with an external monitor that has focus tools.
One way you could prob do this with BBF is with fairly slow AF settings, so when you go from AF eye to manual on an object (you can preset your single focus box on a cross of 3/3 grid (I often do) and then when you press BBF for spot focus your camera should refocus, but much slower.
Set up an tripod and stage a scene and test different speed settings until you are happy with the results
@@persvanstrom thanks for the tips! i am also using the R6Mii if that makes any difference. I wll see if i can find a good setting.
Thank you for your vid
When you say ‘auto’ focus, I thought you were saying ‘out of focus’
Hehe
Sometimes my photos end up the same way 😅
@ heheh. Thank you
What cage do you have on your Canon R6M2?
I only got m1, but I use 8sinn. Love their rig stuff. Expensive but premium
The main advantage of decoupling autofocus from the shutter button is so that the photographer can leave the camera in continuous autofocus, yet still be able to focus and recompose (with the subject off centre) when necessary, by simply letting go of the AF-On button on the back of their camera.
I have been perfectly capable of locking focus and recomposing through the years. The “magic” simply comes from the AF-Lock button, or in my case, the AF-On button, that is configured to serve as a dedicated AF-Lock button instead.
With normal use of your shutter release button, let's say a subject is stationary all you need do,is press rear button with thumb to disable a.f. Then if it moves just release the rear button to start focus tracking. Easy peasy...very few professional photographers use back button for focusing.
Moreover a more important use of a rear button is to have it programmed to One Shot/Ai Servo switch, or on Canon to Register Recall Function.
Besides all that:
Why use two fingers to do what can be accomplished with just one finger.
All options that works for you is a great option :) Personally I don't like either, battery, heat or noise of servo and I also like to focus on both eyes and subjects. Back button autofocus gives me that. So that is my solution. I'm glad you found yours :) Nice share, thx for that m8
You mean i can keep pressin the back button AF-On while focusing then take a shot?
Exactly that. I often alter between spot focus and back button AF-On while composing. When camera locks on what I like, then I just fire away. If subject moves, camera still tracks as long as you keep your focus button pressed.
Was trying this on the rp but it doesn’t work
Can’t you program buttons on RP? Sorry I don’t have one to try it out…
BACK BUTTON FOCUS: Today's modern DSLR / MIRRORLESS cameras, back button focus is really not necessary.
When the back button was useful was at a time when the a.f. points were limited to such a small portion on the viewfinder screen. Like when 9 points were all that was available.
Today, most professional photographers use back buttons for many other options.
I never use the back button for focusing.
Generally, I leave tracking on and eye detection off since most of my wildlife is moving. On the R7 at least, I've found that Eye Detection isn't as consistent as it is on my R3/R5, so for Birds in flight or rapidly moving animals it's better to be able to quickly get on target and let tracking follow the subject. I get a higher keeper rate this way. For static/perched animals, I usually have time to toggle Eye Detection on and if it is still having difficulty latching onto the eye, I can always turn tracking off.
Today the main advantage of decoupling autofocus from the shutter button is so that the photographer can leave the camera in continuous autofocus, yet still be able to focus and recompose (with the subject off center) when necessary, by simply letting go of the AF-On button on the back of their camera.
I have been perfectly capable of locking focus and recomposing through the years. The “magic” simply comes from the AF-Lock button, or in my case, the AF-On button, that is configured to serve as a dedicated AF-Lock button instead.
With normal use of your shutter release button, let's say a subject is stationary. All you need to do is press the rear button with thumb to disable a.f. Then, if it moves, just release the rear button to start focus tracking. Easy peasy... very few professional photographers use back-button for focusing, measly to change some settings in the A.F.
Moreover a more important use of a rear button is to have it programmed to One Shot/Ai Servo switch, eye detection on/off,start/stop subject tracking or on Canon to Register Recall Function.
Also possible to program a rear button to a single point a.f. selection or any one of the cluster boxes.
With today's DSLR'S / MIRRORLESS, the possibilities are numerous.
My r3 has numerous options for a.f. operational interfaces. Using my eye , rear lcd touch screen, joystick or top and rear dials to select movement of where to start focus.
My r5 and r7 have quite a few options as well.
Besides all that:
Why use two fingers to do what can be accomplished with just one finger.
Nice input, I need to try some of this, I took almost 100k photos last year, so will be hard to retrain that muscle-memory. For me the swich between AF/continous/eye tracking to spot focus has landed me some really successful photos that I wouldn't have landed otherwise. Where I can choose to focus on a none-human object while I have people in the scene as an example. Still very interesting to learn new things, so I really appreciate your input m8. I can feel a new video or two from this :) Both R5 and R3 on on my list for dream camera, how do you like them? What is best with them?
@persvanstrom point well taken... no pun intended..(ha - ha) Single point / spot focus is definitely a great way to use auto focus tracking start.
I've noticed that when I'm using the r3 flexible zone points, if the subjects' eyes are small in the viewfinder, as good as its a.f. is, the r3 can have even have problems locking on to the eyes.
And I must hit the a.f. points selection swith and use the multi function button to quickly switch to single spot or single point to start the tracking-lock on.
Since the shutter button has to "pass" through the half-press point when taking a picture, will it not trigger metering+exposure lock thereby canceling any previous exposure lock (say for backlit situation)? For that reason, I've got my video record button set to perform exposure lock but maybe with what you're saying, I can free up my red button :-)
Sounds like a nice solution 👍 Who needs a RED 😅
@@persvanstrom BTW I just tried your solution and answered my own question. What you're suggesting is holding down the shutter button to keep the exposure locked. That works but can be a bit tricky to pull off all the time. I will certainly be trying that as well. Thanks again for the tip!
👍👍👍 EXCELENT 👍👍👍
So are you 👍
Got all the way then realised I don’t have eye tracking bc mine is EOS R 😭
Oh no, sorry
Who is she? Got her insta id?
Brilliantly helpful but the pointless, annoying background music is maddening. Please, we don’t want it, your voice and instructions are perfect without it, thanks.
Thx for the feedback. Same in later videos? Learning curve for me as well
This video could have been even better without the background music, which is useless and spoiling the speech.
Ok, Thx for the feedback m8, I appreciate it
Sorta funny. The accent of Auto-Focus sounds almost exactly like "out-of-focus."
Opsie 😅