How To Remove A Stuck Shimano Pad Axle Brake Pin
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- Опубликовано: 20 сен 2024
- The Shimano disc brake calliper Shimano does have one fundamental flaw, the Pad Axle, or brake pad pin. It seizes into the calliper, is as soft as butter, and is easy to round off. Which means you can’t replace the pads, and the bike is unusable.
In this video, I show you how to remove a seized pad Axle from a Shimano brake calliper.
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🔧*To do this job, you’ll need the following tools: *🔧
A 4MM hex key (Allen key)
A T30 Torx Wrench
An 8MM spanner
Pliers, or a vice
Some brake cleaner, and a cloth
Crankalicious Rotorissimo brake cleaner:
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Copper Grease:
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📦 Prestacycle Pro T-Handle Ratchet: ➡️ - 10% Discount Code ‘ribblevalley2024’ 💰
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🎦 Follow Up Videos 🎦
How To Bleed Your Shimano Brake System:
• How To Bleed Shimano R...
How To Align Your Disc Brake Calliper:
• How To Stop Disc Brake...
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Been meaning to add copper grease to my axles for a while.......just done it after watching this. Thank you
Good to hear 👍
I changed the flathead axle bolts to the mtb ones with hex heads. Also yes, cleaning and some copper grease helps.
Copper grease will help, agreed.
Watching your channel lately as I crashed my bike (snapped fork all internal cables ) and the parts were so expensive decided I repair it myself. Another issue was the calliper axel seized, bang! out comes this video comes! You do very good instructional vids, you should be a teacher, very natural
Thanks....... You should see the out-takes 🤣 Good luck with that repair 👍
And it's also worth noting that the new brake pad pins are hex head which is a big improvement !!
I use swissstop pads and pin with a little bit of copper paste plus regular cleaning is a must
Agreed. The trick with the pad axle is to pop a blob of something on there before it gets a chance to corrode.
Never had any problems whit my Shimano XTR, use some coppergrease nex time 👍
Worth doing.
A very good detailed video and explanation thanks.Although I haven’t had this issue when I took my pads out the other day as I was cleaning the piston surrounds with a few cotton buds I thought to myself how does the fluid get across to the other side of the…..And now I know cheers
Glad it helped!
I drilled mine out, and replaced them with split pins, which work fine.
The split pin is a good alternative.
Hi Jon, excellent video as usual, before your video i started replacing all these pad axles with titanium hex headed versions. Probably will put a very small anount of copper grease on them to stop any thread corrosion.
The titanium idea is a good way to go, but very expensive. Saying that though, the coloured ones do look very cool!
Nice to see your back mate 😊
Been so busy with life outside the channel, really struggling to find the time!
Good to see you're back. You're the 3rd person in as many weeks to mention this issue. Supposedly, Shimano have replaced this screw with a hex/allen head screw for Ultegra/Dura Ace. Don't know for sure but I was going to check this out.
Good to be back. Been so busy with life outside the channel, really struggling to find the time!
I suspect the hex idea won't solve the issue, as the sidewall of the hex is thin, so will easily flex and round off.
I think Shimano just need to put a little something on the thread.
@@ribblevalleycyclist Very true. Not seen the change myself. It'll be interesting to see what Shimano do. I liked the tip about copperslip. I always put anti-seize compounds to prevent issues like this. Dad raised me right. 🙂
Awesome hint and perfectly described .. thanks 😎
My pleasure 😊
Brilliant tip - just 3 months late for me! Spent 4 hours drilling out the axle pin with a Dremmel. Had to sacrifice the threads which are at the head end so now just use the split pin which comes with the pads. I guess this pin is the better choice anyway to avoid the same issue?
There is nothing wrong with using a split pin, MTB has been that way for years.
Ever since I knew about this issue, I started to apply a little bit of anti-seize on the threads. I did this on one of my customers' bike ever since he got it new and by the time it's handed to me for its first full service, they can be loosened just fine. Not a single seized bolt on this bike. 👌
Imagine how easy life would be if Shimano did what you did!!!!!
Well done
I'm really curious what must've gone through shimano engineers' heads when instead of using a hex bolt or even plain ol' pin, they decided to use the least convenient and damage-prone head type
Yeah, pretty stupid stuff. Disappointing performance for what is normally a very good company.
..." 2 , to get on your nerves "....
you make me laugh out loud!!!!
Strewth! I think I’ll go back to rim brakes!
There is weight to that argument!!
Nope, never
@@dh7314 I got no choice mate. I have 22 bikes. 21 of them have rim brakes! I ride them all. Only one has discs. Simples.
Change the screw head with the hex head. Copper slip on the thread
Indeed copper grease will prevent seizing but it is sometimes hard to clean of areas you don't want to grease. Therefore I use an even better ant-seize grease then copper grease which is called marine grease like Lanocote.
Thanks for the tip, I'll look it up.
Excellent video
Glad you liked it
@@ribblevalleycyclist Saw a guy on FB post this exact issue.
Fortunately I believe the newer 105 calipers now come with a decent hex head bolt.
I just used some pin nosed pliers and shoved the tips between the spring and the pad and grabbed the axle that way.
You can sometimes grab it from either the back, or the middle, if you're lucky!
Great video, thanks, but where can I get spares for the calliper? I.e. the o rings, piston seal rings etc. Thanks.
Hi Chris,
Glad you liked the video.
Getting spares isn't easy, but you can get them on eBay. The bags of spares I show in this video came from eBay. My advice is to double-check what you're buying by measuring the existing ones with a digital calliper, and comparing them to the ones being offered, as they tend to include measurements.
Thank you for replying 👍🏼I will check eBay, thanks again.
I found the bolt had seized the day before I was travelling to Mallorca and pads were down to nothing. Luckily I had a spare calliper. Crap design and material choice from Shimano. I bought some aftermarket ti bolts 😂
The titanium idea is a good way to go, but very expensive. Saying that though, the coloured ones do look very cool!
Sometimes, the pin is done up way too tight. It's never going to come out as long as the spring clip is on the end, so it barely needs nipping up. Copper slip on threads is always a good idea.
Replacing it with a split pin is also an option, just looks a bit rubbish.
Yeah I threw those pins out and replaced it with a hex bolt.
Good idea.
How ironic that I had a caliper with the very same issue yesterday. I was lucky and with a bit of weight in the screw (I am 18st), it gave in and came away. The world order has now resumed - lol
Sounds like you dodged a nightmare....... Go get that grease!!!!!
I have Shimano SLX calipers which have a split pin in them, I'm curious should they have a screw in them, as they have a screw thread on one side. I bought the bike second hand it's about 9 years old.
Every Shimano SLX calliper I've seen has a screw....... not sure about the older ones, though. A quick Google Image search will verify that. Saying that though, there is nothing wrong with using a split pin, many people do, either as a precautionary thing, or because of a previous problem. Don't feel you have to change back to a screw.
Good video for the removal of the flawed Aluminium OEM design pan retaining pin.
Unfortunately my understanding is you are not completely correct with your explanation on the cause.
My belief the pin is made with the base metal of aluminium.
Although, if you ride in wet or where salt is applied to the roads, (so that’s realistically everyone riding all year round in the UK), the aluminium pin will likely corrode, then the aluminium slot head can fail before enough force can be applied to remove the pin.
My more simpler home mechanic solution is just drill out the pin in situ and upgrade your bike by fitting split pins.
I much more reliable and maintenance friendly solution.
A accept this simpler solution will not be for everybody, but having used disc brakes on my MTB for many years, I like the simplicity and reliability or split pins.
I'll be honest with you, John, I put this issue down to galvanic corrosion, as the calliper body is an alloy, and such a technically advanced organisation such as Shimano wouldn't be so incompetent as to put an alloy based bolt, into an alloy based component. I've just put a magnet on that pad axle, and it turns out they are that incompetent, and you're right. Also, the one in the video was neither rounded off accidentally, nor seized, I went with what I had, and rounded it off myself, as I felt a resolution needed sharing!!!!!!
Additionally, I agree with you on the split pin method, it is technically better. However, the average 'Rodie' won't take kindly to it, and will see it as a 'Bodge'........ Even though it's been the method in MTB since the dawn of disc.
Thanks, professional reply:-
The material spec of this slot headed pad retaining pin is good business for Shimano, (and bike shops).
As this aluminium slot headed brake pad retaining pin will be prone to part seizing in place in real world riding conditions and the slot head failing trying to remove.
An aluminium slot head will be a little more robust than as you say butter, but not by much. LOL.
A dremell and a flat head screwdriver saved all the bother. Cheers tho. 👍
Same here, dremmel, a Large Screwdriver 🪛 and a lot of swearing
Agreed, in some cases, the Dremel can work very well. The trouble with the Shimano road calliper is that you ideally want to cut the new slot into the same place as the old one, and depending on where the screw was sat when it got stuck, may mean you end up cutting into the side of the calliper. Additionally, you need to own a Dremel, which costs £50.... so not many people have one...... and the copy ones have no torque, so are useless. Everyone has the tools in this video.
"...which means that you will then need to bleed the system..."
Let me stop you there, I'm out.