How To Frame Window Opening in Existing Windowless Wall - Part One
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- www.homebuildin... Click on this link for more information about windows, home remodeling and building repairs. Even though these methods might not be approved by structural engineers or local building authorities, I made the videos anyway, because it was requested by one of my viewers. I've used these methods myself and if used creatively, just might allow you to install a window in a wall that doesn't have any windows, without damaging the interior drywall and in some cases exterior siding or stucco. Remember to always check with local building authorities before making any modifications to a building.
Even though I've done this before, I would like to add something if I didn't already say it in the videos. I wouldn't use this method for windows larger than 48 inches wide or multiple story buildings.
TRULY APPRECIATE THE INFORMATION AS WELL AS YOUR TIME PRODUCING IT; PLEASE DO NOT STOP GUYS LIKE ME NEED GUYS LIKE YOU !! BE WELL!! PJP
Glad to hear and keep learning.
I think cutting the drywall more open to top and bottom will be easier for the framing. Will also need put temp support stud to carry the weight.
Remember these are only suggestions and might not be approved by your local building authorities, building department or engineers.
Definitely take the extra time to cut a bit more drywall if you need to. Leaving a load-bearing wall with trimmers and studs that aren't attached well will be bad if the house ever shifted. Drywall is cheap and takes little time to prep and paint for what it's worth.
Please, please please, inform your viewers that it is dangerous to cut the studs without temporary support as the load it is supporting might collapse.
Chris Dejarme you would just support them on the sides before
Uhh no Sam, Chris is right you should make sure to properly support the load before you cut the exterior wall studs. Also imo taking the drywall off the wall would make this whole process a lot easier and you could even attach everything properly. If you can afford the cost of a new window drywall should be a snap.
You're absolutely right, support all floors and roofs, before cutting into structural components like wall studs.
gregvancom you only have to worry about support on load- bearing wall
Yes, I've seen 2 x 4 window headers supporting openings in nonload bearing walls. I wouldn't use a 2 x 4 window header for openings larger than 6 feet wide.
It's so much easier to remove the drywall from ceiling to floor extending to the closest stud that will not be removed. That gives you room to work and do it right. Replacing drywall is easy to do in contrast to trying to save it.
It would be a lot easier to just remove the entire piece of sheet rock from top to bottom and do it the right way so you can properly nail the cripples and king studs. Not only that but if you are installing this window on the first floor of a 2 story building you better build a temp wall or use a jack screw and a 2x6 to hold that area up while you install the header.
You use the word easier, but that wouldn't be the case. The methods used in this video would be easier and faster to complete, but if you don't think so I'm up to accepting a challenge, kinda like a duel, but no one gets killed. You might need to watch the video again where I said that this method probably wouldn't work on two-story homes or for every project.
Ok I'm about to add 4 Windows to my garage but unfortunately I already removed all of the cardboard covering that they used as interior so I'm already have an advantage over you😄
Good point. I never thought about working with cardboard, maybe that's a video I can make in the future :)
Hello! Any help on what a guy can do if the wires appear to be running up and down the wall we want to frame out the new window for??
Thanks for the detailed walkthrough, however are you saying that you nail the cripples to the header, but the the cripples to the top plate are just floating? I plan to cut back my existing studs (to use as cripples) and then push the header up to meet them. I'm also going to cut the drywall where the header is to be installed so I can nail the header to the cripples, it's pretty easy to cut a rectangle sheet of drywall and tape, texture, paint, or have a drywall dude come by for an hour and fix your mess :)
Enjoyed the video. Are there any suggestions on how to remove the cripple studs without damaging the drywall they are attached to ?
I would like to say that there is, but more than likely you are going to have some casualties. You could try using a sawzal and I've tried wiggling them away slowly, but the laws of averages always seem to be against you. The more you have to do, the more you increase your chances of damaging the other side.
Never-mind, found it!!!
KUDOS Great work that's so awesome. Wonder what your using to make these videos, They are awesome
Be well,
Mike
Thanks that helps
Don't the king studs need to run from top plate to bottom plate?
Where are the Jack plates?
I thought I covered that in the video.
Can you add a new window without taking off the drywall inside to add the king stud? Not sure how to add those new studs without removing the drywall.
I'm having a difficult time figuring out what you're trying to do. You will need to remove some of the drywall inside to create the window opening.
Need to install a small window in a support wall. Will this work????
Should work as long as you support the wall before
I cannot tell you whether or not it will work, but I think you can get a pretty good idea from the size of the window in the video, whether or not it might work for you. I can tell you though that most building departments, engineers and building inspectors probably wouldn't approve this method of construction.
Can the header touch the sill plate, or are cripples always required?
Yes, the header can touch the sill plate. For example if you only needed 5 1/2 inches then you could use a 4 x 6 for the area underneath the window.
I can't remember ever coming across a project were there one cripples or jack studs over a window header, especially on a load bearing wall.
@@gregvancom In basements where there's barely room for a header, you aren't likely to find cripple studs. In fact, in many cases there's no header at all - just a top plate. The top plate still distributes the load down your king studs/trimmers, so it's not terrible.
Cut away all the sheetrock. You are leaving out areas that need to be mailed that you cannot do while leaving the sheetrock in place like you are trying to show. Not sure exactly what you're trying to do here. But my inspectors would destroy your demo.
Need to replace two windows and the wall has termite damage so the rough opening will have to be rebuilt.
Unfortunately, I cannot afford the magical wand required to install framing in a closed wall like this, especially if I want to attach the framing to other framing... and God help you if there's a wire running under the window. :)
Yes, magic wands make a big difference:)
Do it right, remove the drywall.
I cant get anyone to help me. We had a re stucco done on our house. A "FRAMER" took the wood out of our window frames and replaced it with metal. After this I could feel cold air coming through and I could hear the traffic as if I were outside. My husband said I am crazy. Now every morning condensation is dripping inside the windows and mold is everywhere. My husband yells when I bring it up. I tried calling window companies and they act like they don't know WTF I'm talking about either. Am I just F crazy? Is this normal? And who can I call a framer??
Email me some picture of the inside and outside of the windows. You can get our email address at our website.