How to Build an Enclosure for the P1P from Bambu Lab
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
- In this video, I will show you how to build a p1p enclosure for the P1P from Bambu Lab. This enclosure is perfect to enable your P1P to print ABS, ASA, and more.
This guide will show you how to build the "Vision" enclosure for the P1, what issues I ran into, and how well the enclosure works.
Review of the P1P:
craftknights.c...
Vision Enclosure:
www.printables...
P1P Vision LED Top Riser:
www.printables...
Bambu Lab P1P Cable Chain Remix:
www.printables...
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Guessed wrong :). Bambu Lab now sells an enclosure for the P1P anlong with additional stuff, converting it to the P1S.
Yes, I heard. Gotta give it to them, they suprised me. And the price for the upgrade is quite resonable too.
Yeah good luck trying to get it lol
@@djj5088 i already ordered and received all the parts by now. I ordered them separately, because i already got the glass panels and fans for the x1c before the p1s was released.
@@Craftknights3DWhat? It's $200... on sale!
Nice to find out I was not the only one to have EXACTLY the same issues.
Thanks for this informative and honest video showing all of the practical challenges with PTFE tube, chain problems, and other fitment details. Really helpful! I just received my BL P1P and am thinking about enclosing too. I've only printed PLA and am mulling over a Minimalist enclosure. Interested in your thoughts in general about enclosure benefits vs. drawbacks for PLA. Main enclosure benefit seems cosmetic and also to eliminate dust build up on print bed to to reduce delamination risk. Perhaps there are other benefits? Maybe reduce the noise a little and better printing accuracy when bolted panels stiffen the steel frame? BL recommends MC fan and a lot of people also add the accessory fan so I'm not convinced an acrylic enclosure would actually be quieter but would like to hear your thoughts. I really don't know whether a stiffer frame translates into any meaningful improvement in print quality and would like to hear about your experiences. The price of all these mods adds up - acrylic panels that I cut to shape + BL glass door + BL hinge kit + BL control board fan + BL accessory fan + BL chain guide kit + filament + fasteners. Easily $200 CAD. Fun and cosmetically satisfying but would like to learn about consequences - e.g. requirement to leave the door open printing PLA and also endure even more fan noise? Or challenges making the chain guide more robust or premature wear on PTFE tube due to friction against the long oval opening through the steel frame.=
im not smart enough to tell you an answer, Im just here for the ride because you propose great questions that line up with my plans for my p1p, so if anyone else figured this out or has some answers that would be great. i wanted to print an enclosure but might end up caving and spending the $155 USD on the BL brand p1p enclosure that comes with everything ready to install
I think Bambu printers kind of need that extra headspace given how the filament feeds into the top of the extruder. Unless you are really concerned with aesthetics, and have a P1P to start with, I would just as soon add a 4-5 cm space on the top and build the enclosure around that. It would save you from having to mess with the filament tube as well.
They really do. When we got the X1C at work with the AMS, I tried PLA-CF with it and it immediately got stuck right where it feeds into the extruder. That happened multiple times, basically making it impossible to print that material at all. I had to change the PTFE tube and add some slack there, just to make sure it does not bend that much. If the lid was raised a little higher, there wouldn't be any issues. Although the AMS also adds some drag to the filament path.
@@Noxoreos Wow. In the back of my mind I thought that Bambu had some slick (no pun intended) way of keeping the print head that close to the top without affecting performance on the X1. So it was an aesthetics decision at the expense of performance after all.
@@workingTchr That could very well be true, as it is not that much of a problem for typical plastics that are not too stiff.
Maybe they didn't notice that problem before or by the time they did changing the construction would be too expensive.
On the other hand they may have had some limitations with the assembly line. The printer is fully surrounded by a sheet metal frame and nothing sticks out except the base and the frame housing and glass cover. Changing the assembly line after it's set up would be extremely expensive.
And finally I think that they kew people would release their own fixes for such problems, which did happen. Specifically with two changes: A tube guide and glass lid risers.
@@Noxoreos I'm making a "riser" for my P1P as part of the enclosure, and it just occurred to me that it doesn't have to be the same height from the front to back since the tube flattens out on its own as the print head moves towards the front. So a sloped riser that had maximum height at the back and, probably, zero height at the front would be optimal. That would look the best too, IMHO. Actually, it might look kind of cool!
@@workingTchr Yes that should work if you don't plan on puttin anything on top, like the AMS
Good video, glad to see another P1P enclosure. I just finished the ARC enclosure by Thrutheframe, and used the kit from the US supplier. I printed all of the parts in ABS on my X1 Carbon, so they should handle the heat better. For me it is worth the small exrta cost to not have to source everything - especially the panels
This is great upgrade, i may consider using polycarbonate. And add a fan to keep main circuit board from overheating now that it's enclosed. And adding an exhaust fan with hepa filter. This looks awesome!
Did you get round to this, looking at doing this myself
That is awesome upgrade and looks killer too. 👍
I've bought something similar, though from what mine showed we need to print it using ABS due to heat resistance properties. thus far using PLA is there any issues?
Do you put the motherboard fan ??
Schick, danke fürs zeigen! Ich glaube, ich lass das erst mal mit dem Gehäuse, ich drucke ich kein ABS. Aber schön zu sehen, dass man die Möglichkeit hat, das Ding relativ einfach zu erweitern.😁👍
Hab mit meinem P1P ohne Gehäuse ABS gedruckt, Druck war perfekt.
Thank you very much for the video!
Thanks for the info. This looks like a great solution to get some ABS printing on the P1P. Out of curiosity. Did you have to do any hot end upgrades or anything like that? Or is that only to print with PC’s and nylons etc? TIA 👍
You don't need to Upgrade the hot end for ABS. I don't know about nylon however.
@@Craftknights3D I think the official guidance is that for nylon and carbon it needs a hardened one
You can remove the scratches with,MEGUIAR'S Plastx Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish.
Thanks for the tipp! I will try that.
Hi. Thanks for this tutorial. Did you change out the toolhead cable and ptfe tube or used the ones taht came with the P1p?
I used the ones that came with the P1P
Hey thanks for the Video. I am very happy you like my Riser :D i like the orange. might have to reprint mine :D
Does this help with noise?
@8:15 the top of the shark fin overheated, is there a way to fix that i wonder.
I'm planing to make this enclosure for abs. But I have an enclosed room (my dorm) and I've seen no flitering system here. If I am to plan to use this setup indoor, should I also add a fan and abs fliter as well? or is there other solutions?
There is no Filtration on the P1P. So always print in well ventilated areas or, If you can, add a filter to the enclosure.
Many thanks for sharing this video, what thickness of acrylic panels did you use? It looks a bit more sturdy than 3mm.
It's 3 mm thick acrylic.
@@Craftknights3D Thanks!!
Hey, great video! I have some questions:
1. Did you print the parts vertically?
2. Did you order the official chain from Bambu Labs? They say not to use it on the P2P, I don't know what to think...
3. Did you use a soldering iron to add the heated inserts? If yes, which temps did you use?
Thanks in advance!
Bambus Changes the description in the product page after I released the video. I printed the adapter for the chain and used some cable Chain from amazon. It works fine for me.
I used a soldering Iron at around 190 c.
thats pretty cool but does it have a way to regulate the temperature (sorry i skipped a bit through out the video)
Seems easier to just buy the Bambu labs official enclosure kit now that it is available for P1P. It comes with filter and exhaust fans and all. You want filter for printing ABS unless you want to risk your health
Yes, its what I also said in my review of the P1S Upgrade Kit.
Looks really nice!! Does this enclosure help with noise canceling?
Nope. Not at all.
can you use the AMS multi add on after you have enclosed the p1p?
Sure. You just have to place the AMS to the side as it doesn't fit on top of the printer anymore.
So you need a laser cutter, 3d printer, 3d resin printer, to upgrade your P1P?
There are kits that you can buy and you can always outsource the laser cutting.
Does this enclosure reduce the noise much?
Not at all
Hi,
Welche Energie Kette ist das?
Link….?
Danke
Das warping liegt nur daran das man kein Gehäuse hat ? Oder was muss man noch bei den Einstellungen beachten ? Ich habe gestern versucht mit abs das Gehäuse zu drucken aber das warpt so extrem das ist echt nicht normal ! Heute habe ich angefangen das ganze einfach in petg zu drucken ..
hast du ein paar Tipps ?
Hauptsächlich Temperaturschwankungen und Schwankungen in der Luftfeuchtigkeit. Am besten vorher auch nochmal das Filament trocknen. Falls du keinen Filament Trockner hast, dann gibts die Ghetto Methode: Kartonschachtel in den Maßen drucken damit eine Filament spule hinein passt. Filament Spule auf das Heizbett vom Printer legen und auf etwa 70 Grad einstellen, den Karton drauflegen und paar Stunden trocknen lassen. -Ohne Gehäuse sind meist nur kleine Drucke möglich.
I'm going blind it seems as I can't see where the measurements for the panels are located? Are they in the dfx files
Yes. They are in the dfx Files. Make sure to import them properly or the scaling could be off.
Probably better off just getting the p1s? Has anyone experience
The p1s wasn't out when I made the video. I recommend getting the upgrade kit or straight out buying the p1s
@@Craftknights3D Really ? you think is not worth it doing the Vision Enclosure ?
Depends. The Vision enclosure ist cheaper and works Just fine. The p1s upgrade ist higher quality but also more expensive.
@@Craftknights3D that's ok then, as long as it works the same and it's cheapr ;) thank you
@@Craftknights3D Macht sinn! Danke 🙏
I'm curious how is the cable inside the cable chain holding up? In my experience, with an i3 design, cable chains used to wear through on hot spots of the cables inside the chain.
Mine ist holding up so far. But this could be an issue in the future.
How much does it cut down the sound? Not sure if you have any experience with ender 3s, how does the sound compare to those? Thanks in advance!
It does't help with the noise at all. The P1P is louder than the Ender 3 s1.
If i use PLA do i need to do all this?
You don't need an enclosure for pla, petg, and tpu.
@@Craftknights3D thank you
Is there any particular reason for using ABS instead of ASA, my crude understanding was that ASA was ABS but easier and better...
ASA is UV resistant and water-resistant. ASA also has a higher temperature resistance than ABS. They are about equally hard to print, in my experience. ABS is generally cheaper, though.
@@Craftknights3D Oh ok, in my region the pricing is so close that I went for ASA, thanks for the response, just be careful about styrene fumes and keep up the good content :)
Does it help with the noise?
No, not at all.
sorry to say, but if your ABS pars fail so youve gotta use resin, the entire purpouse of printing ABS is gone and you have got to slow down the print speed to maintain layer adhesion
Only that particular part kept failing. The other parts I printed work just fine, including the voron parts I printed in the video.
8:30 "I don't think they will ever sell an enclosure"
BambuLab: Releasing the P1S oooooo aaaaaah
Random Dude: 'aint that just the p1p with walls...'
I just published my P1S review where I upgrade the P1P to a P1S.
I can find the cable chain but not the PTFE guide. Where can I buy it
I think you still have to print that Part. I thought it was part of the cable chain package but it isn't.
How does this do with the fumes from ABS?
Not much. There is no filter in the P1P so you should only print ABS in a well ventilated area.
Danke für das Video. Konnte damit auch die Lautstärke des P1P gesenkt werden?
in anderen Videos hab ich gesehen, dass die Lautstärke um ca. 10db gesenkt wurde
@@kubicats7150 Danke, habs mitlerweile schon selbst gedruckt und angebaut. Gleich mal im kompletten Encloser PLA gedruckt und nen Extruder Clog erzeugt. Bei PLA immer Top Lid abnehmen, sonst kann der gesamte Extruder zu warm werden.
@@seppeqespecho4260 Das ist richtig und wird auch in vielen Videos (z.B. von MPox) erwähnt.
Für PLA reicht die Bauteil-Kühlung nicht von daher Deckel abnehmen und Tür auflassen.
Da ein laute Lüfter hinten verbaut ist, sollte es nur semi etwas bringen.
didn't you had problems with the mc-board? I heard that its recommended to install a fan for the mc-board.
I didn´t have any issues jet. The board is on the back side of the P1P so it should not be affected by the temperature of the heated chamber as far as I know. But I could be wrong.
@@Craftknights3D yes but if you enclose it and print 120C build plate ABS as example the whole interieur heats up and the mc-board too.. thats what I'm scared of
@@beefjeff3581OK. I will do some testing and measure the temperature of the Mainboard to make sure that it doesn't overhead. I will let you know what I find out.
@@Craftknights3D Thats great thanks!
@@beefjeff3581 So, I am printing for almost a month now with abs. The longest print was 12 hours. And I had no issued so far.
What chain do you use, from x1?
I used a simple drag chain from Amazon. The other parts are printed. Links are in the description.
hi, you have the dimensions of the acrilic panels?
There are vector files for laser cutting that come with the projekt.
@@Craftknights3D thanks
Wouldn’t be cheaper and easier just to buy whole acrilic “box” and put over printer? 🤔
The cheapest way is simply putting a Cardboard box over it.
@@Craftknights3D
nope, cardboard can’t keep temps
I printed this enclosure using ASA. During the project, I placed the cardboard box that the my P1P came in over the printer. With this setup, I achieved temperatures between 50 and 60 C easily.