I don't know why anybody was giving you grief over your camera work or body work. It looks pretty good to me. Keyboard warriors are generally the least skilled.
Looks bloody fantastic Kyle 👌 50yr old car that was mass produced with massive tolerances come up bloody fantastic mate.. Keep up the great content 👏 👌 👍
@The Resto Shed I seen that post you were talking about too don't take any notice Kyle.. Least your showing everyone how it's done.. Whether it suits them with the way they do it who cares mate.. Least you speak appropriately and don't down grade people if you are right or wrong 💯
Looks bloody good to me mate, at the end of the day as long as the surface prep is done right and we follow the product specs we will get a good quality long lasting protective coating. keen to see the next steps mate, Im about to bare metal my falcon and follow the same process you have taken, also doing the panel to panel filler and blocking. cheers bloke
That is very true mate. Good to hear you’re going to extra step and getting the panel to panel work done too, it is certainly the way to go if you’re after a nice consistent looking finish over the whole car.
@@TheRestoShed mate you are doing great work i am a spray painter and I do the technique as you do and I have never had a issue again don’t listen to the hater’s keep up the great work
This will show you the basic process I will follow through on this build. A Basic Guide to Restoration Bodywork and Highbuild Priming - The Resto Shed ruclips.net/video/zyyT9PVr0_Y/видео.html
Love your work. Quick question hope you can answer it for me.. I also got my Ute sandblasted. It was then ech primmed ( but I missed a bit) so over a few months I’ve started to see very minor orange rust patches.. my question is .. do I need to treat those area’s with something before I 2-1 prime it or will a good sand down to shiney bare metal be enough for me to be able to 2-1 prime ?cheers bk
Etch primer isn’t a sealer, it’s for adhesion. If it’s rusty in some spots there is a high chance it’s rusty in others and will need to be stripped off, Deoxidised or reblasted. Use epoxy primer next time as it isn’t porous. And no you can’t apply epoxy cover etch primer.
looks great ignore the negative people i'm self taught and do pretty much the same as you never used the epoxy primer did ask the guy here at our local paint supple hereckon its the lower end of the market primer?? why did you remove the lead from the panel joints ?
Epotec would have to be the most widely used epoxy in Australia, it has been around for many years and I’ve used it for a long time too. Lead will often have rust underneath it, so I choose to melt it out and full weld the factory overlap join in the panels. Look up the gapping/panel alignment video I did on this HQ and towards the end of the video I show/explain in more detail.
Epoxy is the benchmark for priming bare metal, and it will also go over most sound substrates. Most epoxy primers have a decent open recoat time, where you can go over it with whatever the next coat is, without having to sand it. The PPG Epotec is 72 hours, but some are up to 30 days.
Watch this video, I go more in depth on the process. Preparing Bare Steel and Spraying Epoxy Primer - The Resto Shed ruclips.net/video/3TY-Ns6wbzU/видео.html
when I bare metal , 1 panel at a time deoxidine repair arear , repair ,deoxidine remaining area and etch , then hi -fill , is that a replacement for etch ? did you deoxidine ? what your process from here ?
Yes still using Deoxidine, one panel at a time before epoxy primer which any filler work goes over the top of once cured. Watch the last couple of videos in this playlist for a demonstration of the process. HQ-HZ Door Skin Revival ruclips.net/p/PLl4s7V9OaZOlTYokxAeaEXO7nNdHQGTbi
got cha , was just curious because I was taught never filler over primer with the exception of pin holes that were missed or appear after primer . minimising filler work and shrinkage and work ,plus the fact never trusted sales reps trying to sell products that appear to be better/ quicker that them themselves never used , so don't get me wrong , just curious on products and procedures that work or don't work
Авто/Мото
Great work mate. You've inspired me to pull my finger out and get back onto my Torana... Been on the rotisserie for way too long.
Keyboard warriors Mate, your doing a great job...Subscribed 👍
Thank you 🙏🏼
I don't know why anybody was giving you grief over your camera work or body work. It looks pretty good to me. Keyboard warriors are generally the least skilled.
I know the resto group he is talking about and they are the most hateful bunch I’ve come across 😂
Looks bloody fantastic Kyle 👌
50yr old car that was mass produced with massive tolerances come up bloody fantastic mate..
Keep up the great content 👏 👌 👍
Thanks mate 🙏🏼
@The Resto Shed I seen that post you were talking about too don't take any notice Kyle..
Least your showing everyone how it's done..
Whether it suits them with the way they do it who cares mate..
Least you speak appropriately and don't down grade people if you are right or wrong 💯
Amazing work mate. Great stuff
Thanks for watching
Looks bloody good to me mate, at the end of the day as long as the surface prep is done right and we follow the product specs we will get a good quality long lasting protective coating. keen to see the next steps mate, Im about to bare metal my falcon and follow the same process you have taken, also doing the panel to panel filler and blocking. cheers bloke
That is very true mate.
Good to hear you’re going to extra step and getting the panel to panel work done too, it is certainly the way to go if you’re after a nice consistent looking finish over the whole car.
Great work mate coming along nicely 👍👍👌
Thanks for watching
Great job 👏🏼
Thank you.
Excellent work bud, lookin great👍
Thank you
Mate love your work don’t worry about the hater’s keep up the great work
Thanks mate.
@@TheRestoShed mate you are doing great work i am a spray painter and I do the technique as you do and I have never had a issue again don’t listen to the hater’s keep up the great work
Whats the next step will you put a guid coat over the epoxy to show lows and then filler work seal off with resto finish. Coming along great 👍
This will show you the basic process I will follow through on this build.
A Basic Guide to Restoration Bodywork and Highbuild Priming - The Resto Shed
ruclips.net/video/zyyT9PVr0_Y/видео.html
She's going to be a tidy Q mate - Good work.
Thanks 🙏🏼
Gaps look bloody lovely mate, pain in the arse they are to get right. Cant believe how good that roof was. Is this car for you or a client?
Thanks mate, yes they can be difficult to get right-ish.
its looking great hats off to you ... got to love the haters ask them for the link to their videos to see how its done LOL
Haha, yes you’re right on that one.
Sick as
Great job as always. What colour is it going to be when you are done?
Hey mate awesome job on the hq You can sand your epoxy primer!!! I can’t with mine it just cloggs up my sandpaper
You may not be using the correct epoxy primer for the job. Not all epoxy primers are sandable depending on their intended use.
@@TheRestoShed thanks mate I’ll try another brand.
Love your work. Quick question hope you can answer it for me.. I also got my Ute sandblasted. It was then ech primmed ( but I missed a bit) so over a few months I’ve started to see very minor orange rust patches.. my question is .. do I need to treat those area’s with something before I 2-1 prime it or will a good sand down to shiney bare metal be enough for me to be able to 2-1 prime ?cheers bk
Etch primer isn’t a sealer, it’s for adhesion.
If it’s rusty in some spots there is a high chance it’s rusty in others and will need to be stripped off, Deoxidised or reblasted.
Use epoxy primer next time as it isn’t porous.
And no you can’t apply epoxy cover etch primer.
Like a mechano set you reckon 😆 Mechano is way more difficult
looks great ignore the negative people
i'm self taught and do pretty much the same as you
never used the epoxy primer did ask the guy here at our local paint supple hereckon its the lower end of the market primer??
why did you remove the lead from the panel joints ?
Epotec would have to be the most widely used epoxy in Australia, it has been around for many years and I’ve used it for a long time too.
Lead will often have rust underneath it, so I choose to melt it out and full weld the factory overlap join in the panels.
Look up the gapping/panel alignment video I did on this HQ and towards the end of the video I show/explain in more detail.
Epoxy is the benchmark for priming bare metal, and it will also go over most sound substrates. Most epoxy primers have a decent open recoat time, where you can go over it with whatever the next coat is, without having to sand it. The PPG Epotec is 72 hours, but some are up to 30 days.
Hey bud what did you use preparing surface before epoxy primer. I heard too grits but not the first bit
Watch this video, I go more in depth on the process.
Preparing Bare Steel and Spraying Epoxy Primer - The Resto Shed
ruclips.net/video/3TY-Ns6wbzU/видео.html
Hey bud what tip size did you use to apply epoxy primer. Did you thin out the epoxy primer?
1.8mm
I will usually thin my epoxy out 10% depending on how much build I want from it
when I bare metal , 1 panel at a time deoxidine repair arear , repair ,deoxidine remaining area and etch , then hi -fill , is that a replacement for etch ? did you deoxidine ? what your process from here ?
Yes still using Deoxidine, one panel at a time before epoxy primer which any filler work goes over the top of once cured.
Watch the last couple of videos in this playlist for a demonstration of the process.
HQ-HZ Door Skin Revival
ruclips.net/p/PLl4s7V9OaZOlTYokxAeaEXO7nNdHQGTbi
got cha , was just curious because I was taught never filler over primer with the exception of pin holes that were missed or appear after primer . minimising filler work and shrinkage and work ,plus the fact never trusted sales reps trying to sell products that appear to be better/ quicker that them themselves never used , so don't get me wrong , just curious on products and procedures that work or don't work
What state are you in , do you do spray jobs for clients
Hey mate are you in Melbourne
South Australia
Foi tratado antes de aplicar o epoxy
Maybe a hat camera .
Now that’s something to look into.
Looks good. Facebook groups are full of arseholes, especially car painting groups. Sucks that the sandblasting wasn’t done properly on your boot lid.
Some knowledgeable people on there too though so you have to take the good with the bad.
@@TheRestoShed True.