I needed a chamfering machine on the fly and thats what I came up with - A simple design with only very few parts to machine and a Kress router motor as a spindle.
Awesome!!! I was thinking that the endmill would last longer if the cut was made on the side of it, but it would lose the easy depth adjustment. Very cool!!!!!! Thanks for the vid! Mike
bluehandsvideo I used a chamfering machine where the endmill was used on its flutes - That thing was super dangerous as it tended to pull/push the workpiece around...using the end of the endmill makes for a very easy controllable cut :) (And regrinding the cutting edges of an endmill is simple when you have a d-bit grinder like a Deckel S0 or a chinese clone :)
Danke Stefan , another nice bit of kit. I am looking forward to the next power feed vid. Its high on the list of improvements for my mill and your work is so clever. Maybe a vid on your workplace ? Im sure it would be very interesting . Cheers, Tom in Oz
I first saw the chamfering machine three videos ago, and was wondering if you would show the design on it in a video, low and behold here is said video, gr8 design simple keeps the fingers out and keeps the ambulances away!. thanks for sharing such a gr8 machine and $ saving device stefan!
Awesome great idea! maybe a screw all the way from the top to the surface of the router could be an easy heigth adjustment. Or maybe a screw with a hex head from the bottom which can be screwed in and out by the side. Or a long hole for a threaded rod with a cutout halfway on the side of the housing where you can place a small thumb screw to actuated the threaded rod and push it down on the router.
Just when you think you know it all, along comes another tool. Just kidding folks, I knew it all years ago.:>) Joking aside, nice build as usual, you put most of us to shame.
I'm in my last year in engineering and the last 3 days I had to postpone or even abort my lunch till just before sleep(when my mind numbed from reading and solving and I was incapable of carrying on, I went to eat). Time is really the only thing with a hard limit in life. Everything else including money is relative and can be expressed or conceived in different ways. PS: Something like (dreams + expectations) / reality = goals IMO and that's why you have to keep pushing!
Mike Dittman Yes and no :) For work like trueing up chuck jaws it work perfectly but for real circular grinding as for bearing seats i am not sure if its stiff enough.
Another excellent tool that could have many uses in the workshop , not just for chamfering but could be set for de- burring pieces cut on a saw . I was thinking that if you made the piece that the router clamps into a little bigger in diameter and threaded ( female thread) you could make a piece that clamps onto the router also threaded ( male thread) that way you would screw the router into the main housing giving it a fine adjustment by just unlocking and turning the router -a little like a micrometer feed.
ian bertenshaw I even was thinking about threading the neck of the routermotor with a M43x1 fine thread to create a fine adjustment, but I got lazy -. And it turns out that it is easy enough to adjust that way. And youre right, the machine works also great for deburring rough pieces that come from the saw.
Nice ideia. Kress are very good power tools (used a lot to make water-cooling cpu jackets). The hole you made, also allows you to use a 8mm cutter, or even a round cornering tool?
12:11 - Have you kept using it this way? I would think I would want some way to use a crank to adjust depth of cut (especially if it can easily be made to fine-tune adjustments, and/or dial to specific depths). This certainly seems to be working for you here, I'm just curious if you ever craved something better, or it was fine for you in a lasting way.
Hi , can I ask you why you didn't design the machine to use the side of the windmill? I guess that it would be a bit more difficult to attain adjustment , but the and mill will last longer in my opinion..Thanks for your efforts
Would you recommend this kress router or maybe Kress FME 1050-1 which has the speed from 5000-25000 for a light milling machine which would be used for milling aluminium,brass,copper and maybe light cuts in steel. Or would you recommend something different but in the similar price range.
Garage workshop Its not a real milling spindle for metals, but you can get good results if youre patient and dont crank it up to 11 all the time. The alternative would be one of those chinese HF-spindles, air or watercooled..
Hi Stefan, Thanks for showing your new chamfering tool, but u need to build another one, Viewers like to see the build ,verstehen? This tool must be O.S.H.A. approved as your fingers are still intact, and their are no bandages or fresh scars, yet!
Robert Klein Osha can *beep* me. In Germany we have the "Berufsgenossenschaft" but they dont care for one-man-shows :) There is realy not much to show on building that thing - Just making a mess in chips, the most complicated thing is figuring out how to clamp it for milling out the V-Notch. In cact that device is pretty safe, the area where you can cut yourself is very small and if the parts get very small you still can use a pushstick...
Now you got me thinking Stefan...! What do you think about me using a Black and Decker wood router? I know its a bit bulky, but I have one sitting around doing most nothing. Your opinion would be appreciated... Cheers, Daniel
***** Yes! A friend has basicaly a woodworking routertable with a 45° chamfering bit and a fence for chamfering..but I wanted to use a straight bit and for that reason I used the V-arrangement :)
One could add adjustable rollers to this by extending one of the two alignment blades and cutting a slot so that a roller could be adjusted for height of the work piece right over the end mill. That would remove any problem one might encounter when having to both push and move the piece resulting in a finer cut and perhaps even a longer cutting tool life. Nice adaptation, certainly proves the point that the machines on the market are nothing more than overpriced designer "handbags".
Hi mate. I had another look at this great video. Prices of that motor must have gone up exponentially since it, as I can't find them for less than AU$450, Thanks for that ( O; I thought that the adjustment could use some help, though. Would it be handy to have a course thread on the mating surfaces so you can more easily make fine adjustments? Perhaps even a provision that you can make use of a DTI? Oh btw when can we/I expect some updates on some of the other projects, you should not leave us hanging like that, I'm running out of fingernails and can't keep holding my breath much longer ( O;
Bravo Stefan. In the US the nearest equivalent of your motor is called a "trim router" and is available at Lowe's or Home Depot for about $60 for the Bosch model and less for a Skil. Buyer beware. I think, but cannot prove, that you could have gotten away with a carbide router bit for a tool. In fact for Al you could use a plain old steel router bit. For steel you will need carbide. Adapter would be different, of course. I will ponder the Dremel equivalent.
Juan Rivero I rounded over meter over meter of alumium plate with a normal Bosch router and a roundoverbit - worked great :) Everything would work for that device as long as its kinda stiff and turns somewhat highspeed. A plunge- or fixedbase router would also work fine... A agree on the carbide router bit, what could also work is a carbide burr, they can take quite a beating.
I've built mine with a Ridgid brand hand router. It comes with a nice kinda-micrometer depth adjustment and speed control. I bolted it onto a slab of 4X1 aluminium bar, with s/steel slot liners made from a BBQ tong. The router's collet accepts a 1/4 in carbide 4 flute end mill.
Dennis Skerb I tried it out handheld for bigger workpieces, works also very good, but its not very dangerous anyway - The area where the finger can be cut is very small. I think a woodworkers routertable is way more dangerous :)
for plastics we just have a piece of high speed steel mounted in a corner like that, it has a much longer guide channel which helps a lot with getting a grip on the part and guiding it through.
+Stefan Gotteswinter Nah its just like the device you have there but a ground high speed steel cutter mounted rigidly in the corner of the guide rails. Only works on plastic but it does a great job. Its not motorized.
I used deburring machines that use the side cutting edges of an endmill - They are no fun to use, you have to be very carefull not to get the part thrown trough the shop.
Probably with a regular endmill, a very steep helix might work. I have a bought machine called Beaver for about 15 years which uses about a 3/4" diameter cutter with steep helix using the OD, many teeth so the cutting edges are close together, [smoother operation] razor sharp and does a wonderful job and very quiet. I Can slide the tool in or out until the whole length is used up. Seems I can't find new cutters for it anymore, [company no longer around]...and I can't get the old ones sharpened. I'll keep looking and if all fails I might try a small steep helix endmill. Keep up the good work!
Carter W Hern Not with that device ;) It would more look like a woodworkers routertable. In fact a routertable would work perfectly for that purpose, using a small carbide roundoverbit.
This is scary to me. I see you using it in other videos and it's scary then too. I guess it's the hand feeding, the steel work piece, and the 10,000 rpm cutter.
Thank you Stefan for the design! I made an adaptation of it to suit my edge trimmer/router. Vielen Dank - es funktioniert sehr gut, besonders mit Stahlteilen. metalworkforums.com/f303/t199130-deburring-chamfering-machine/latest/post1905600#post1905600
I was thinking to use diamond wheel like this. Any reason I should not? I have some 70W knife and drill bit sharpener that I was thinking to use. I am not so much interested in deep chamfer but deburring mostly.
Sweet little build. This is a very good idea for a repeatable chamfer setup.
Absolutely Great Very nice design
Thank you for sharing your ideas with us.
Awesome!!! I was thinking that the endmill would last longer if the cut was made on the side of it, but it would lose the easy depth adjustment. Very cool!!!!!! Thanks for the vid!
Mike
bluehandsvideo I used a chamfering machine where the endmill was used on its flutes - That thing was super dangerous as it tended to pull/push the workpiece around...using the end of the endmill makes for a very easy controllable cut :)
(And regrinding the cutting edges of an endmill is simple when you have a d-bit grinder like a Deckel S0 or a chinese clone :)
Stefan Gotteswinter Ah....that makes a lot of sense!!! Thanks!
Level3-RC I'll second that request. :)
ruclips.net/video/-qHchpQeuho/видео.html
Excellent! I will be making myself one of those!!!
Thanks for sharing!
Very clever setup. Thank you for sharing.
As always, enjoying you sharing your knowlegde, thanks a lot
You really make things simple and useful
You could make a set of shim washers so you can easily set a repeatable depth of cut
Danke Stefan , another nice bit of kit. I am looking forward to the next power feed vid.
Its high on the list of improvements for my mill and your work is so clever. Maybe a vid
on your workplace ? Im sure it would be very interesting . Cheers, Tom in Oz
Fantastic Stefan
Hey Stefan great idea for a chamfering tool looks great!!
You need to market this little invention mate !!!!
Matthew Gischus Its just another stolen idea ;)
Could use a feeler gauge for depth of cut.
Very cool!
Thanks for your videos . Awesome videos and jobs you make.
Viewed this after your deburring/chamferring tutorial. Great shop fixture and simple to do for home machinists. Thanks!
nice tool Stefan. looks like a marketable idea too.
I first saw the chamfering machine three videos ago, and was wondering if you would show the design on it in a video, low and behold here is said video, gr8 design simple keeps the fingers out and keeps the ambulances away!. thanks for sharing such a gr8 machine and $ saving device stefan!
Thank you!
I am still totaly happy with that machine, even two years later, it gets constantly used for all sorts of materials.
nice tool Stefan, great job as usual.
Awesome great idea! maybe a screw all the way from the top to the surface of the router could be an easy heigth adjustment. Or maybe a screw with a hex head from the bottom which can be screwed in and out by the side. Or a long hole for a threaded rod with a cutout halfway on the side of the housing where you can place a small thumb screw to actuated the threaded rod and push it down on the router.
Great Stefan, another tool to add to my list of things to make.
Keep up the good work.
Belair_Boy A viewer already sent me pictures of one he built for his own shop - So go ahead :)
Just when you think you know it all, along comes another tool. Just kidding folks, I knew it all years ago.:>)
Joking aside, nice build as usual, you put most of us to shame.
Great idea and design
Hi Stefan,
It's a great idea, ok, now I need more time....:-)
pierre beaudry Don't we all? ;)
I'm in my last year in engineering and the last 3 days I had to postpone or even abort my lunch till just before sleep(when my mind numbed from reading and solving and I was incapable of carrying on, I went to eat). Time is really the only thing with a hard limit in life. Everything else including money is relative and can be expressed or conceived in different ways.
PS: Something like (dreams + expectations) / reality = goals IMO and that's why you have to keep pushing!
impressive you need to go in production with this concept good show chap
That's great bud.. This has given me a great idea
lbcustomknives Thats great, alsways like it when people get inspired by stuff I do :)
Hello Stefan, great design ! I'm about to build a copy and I would like to know how you attached the table support to the cylinder ?
Thanks a lot
Splendid video and a great idea! I gotta make one of these. Thanx
That gives me an idea. I wonder if a similar tool could be converted into a small tool post grinder.
Mike Dittman Yes and no :)
For work like trueing up chuck jaws it work perfectly but for real circular grinding as for bearing seats i am not sure if its stiff enough.
Excellent ideal, makes quick work and very professional result
Excellent DIY project Stefan!
Cheers from Sweden
Bengt
wonderful my dear friend. There is no wonder there are no unlikes for this post. It is liked all viewers
Nice idea...and just might justify my wanting of an electric die grinder.. ;-)
I like it, thanks for sharing.
Shevill Mathers Thank you!
Very good informative video. Thanks
Wonderful idea. Thank you!!
Awesome machine
nice job
Very nice tool. I wonder if it would also work that well with a grinding stone? That has a lot of possibilities. Thanks for the video.
cerberus Might work especially for hardened workpieces :)
Another excellent tool that could have many uses in the workshop , not just for chamfering but could be set for de- burring pieces cut on a saw .
I was thinking that if you made the piece that the router clamps into a little bigger in diameter and threaded ( female thread) you could make a piece that clamps onto the router also threaded ( male thread) that way you would screw the router into the main housing giving it a fine adjustment by just unlocking and turning the router -a little like a micrometer feed.
ian bertenshaw I even was thinking about threading the neck of the routermotor with a M43x1 fine thread to create a fine adjustment, but I got lazy -. And it turns out that it is easy enough to adjust that way.
And youre right, the machine works also great for deburring rough pieces that come from the saw.
Hi mate.
Super handy. I have not seen a motor like that here in Australia, but super handy.
Marcel.
You must have Dremels in Oz???
Or plunge routers, from the likes of Metabo, Bosch, AEG, or cheap copies?
Nice ideia. Kress are very good power tools (used a lot to make water-cooling cpu jackets). The hole you made, also allows you to use a 8mm cutter, or even a round cornering tool?
José Dias Pinto It might fit a 8mm straight cutter, but a roundover bit would not work on that setup.
I'm hooked...Cap
There is some simple and clever fuckery going on there.. nice work.
Nice tool great job, thanx for the vid.
Nice
12:11 - Have you kept using it this way? I would think I would want some way to use a crank to adjust depth of cut (especially if it can easily be made to fine-tune adjustments, and/or dial to specific depths). This certainly seems to be working for you here, I'm just curious if you ever craved something better, or it was fine for you in a lasting way.
Nice. Sehr genial...
Hi , can I ask you why you didn't design the machine to use the side of the windmill? I guess that it would be a bit more difficult to attain adjustment , but the and mill will last longer in my opinion..Thanks for your efforts
because then you have to be careful about climb mill/conventional mill and part flinging becomes a real danger.
brilliant!
I know what you're thinking. How did the chamfer tool get chamfered?
Would you recommend this kress router or maybe Kress FME 1050-1 which has the speed from 5000-25000 for a light milling machine which would be used for milling aluminium,brass,copper and maybe light cuts in steel. Or would you recommend something different but in the similar price range.
Garage workshop Its not a real milling spindle for metals, but you can get good results if youre patient and dont crank it up to 11 all the time. The alternative would be one of those chinese HF-spindles, air or watercooled..
Thank you for the reply. That is what I had in mind to make light cuts. Will have to look into those chinese spindles.
Hallo Stefan, ein tolles Tool hast du da. Können Sie mir Größen auf Aluminium und Edelstahl geben?
Hi Stefan,
Thanks for showing your new
chamfering tool, but u need to build another one,
Viewers like to see the build ,verstehen?
This tool must be O.S.H.A. approved as your fingers are still
intact, and their are no bandages or fresh scars, yet!
Robert Klein Osha can *beep* me. In Germany we have the "Berufsgenossenschaft" but they dont care for one-man-shows :)
There is realy not much to show on building that thing - Just making a mess in chips, the most complicated thing is figuring out how to clamp it for milling out the V-Notch.
In cact that device is pretty safe, the area where you can cut yourself is very small and if the parts get very small you still can use a pushstick...
Now you got me thinking Stefan...! What do you think about me using a Black and Decker wood router? I know its a bit bulky, but I have one sitting around doing most nothing. Your opinion would be appreciated... Cheers, Daniel
***** Yes! A friend has basicaly a woodworking routertable with a 45° chamfering bit and a fence for chamfering..but I wanted to use a straight bit and for that reason I used the V-arrangement :)
One could add adjustable rollers to this by extending one of the two alignment blades and cutting a slot so that a roller could be adjusted for height of the work piece right over the end mill.
That would remove any problem one might encounter when having to both push and move the piece resulting in a finer cut and perhaps even a longer cutting tool life.
Nice adaptation, certainly proves the point that the machines on the market are nothing more than overpriced designer "handbags".
Hi mate. I had another look at this great video. Prices of that motor must have gone up exponentially since it, as I can't find them for less than AU$450, Thanks for that ( O;
I thought that the adjustment could use some help, though. Would it be handy to have a course thread on the mating surfaces so you can more easily make fine adjustments? Perhaps even a provision that you can make use of a DTI?
Oh btw when can we/I expect some updates on some of the other projects, you should not leave us hanging like that, I'm running out of fingernails and can't keep holding my breath much longer ( O;
Bravo Stefan. In the US the nearest equivalent of your motor is called a "trim router" and is available at Lowe's or Home Depot for about $60 for the Bosch model and less for a Skil. Buyer beware. I think, but cannot prove, that you could have gotten away with a carbide router bit for a tool. In fact for Al you could use a plain old steel router bit. For steel you will need carbide. Adapter would be different, of course. I will ponder the Dremel equivalent.
Juan Rivero If a commercial machine cost $1000 it leaves you $940 to create a decent tool... :-)
Juan Rivero I rounded over meter over meter of alumium plate with a normal Bosch router and a roundoverbit - worked great :)
Everything would work for that device as long as its kinda stiff and turns somewhat highspeed. A plunge- or fixedbase router would also work fine...
A agree on the carbide router bit, what could also work is a carbide burr, they can take quite a beating.
I've built mine with a Ridgid brand hand router. It comes with a nice kinda-micrometer depth adjustment and speed control. I bolted it onto a slab of 4X1 aluminium bar, with s/steel slot liners made from a BBQ tong. The router's collet accepts a 1/4 in carbide 4 flute end mill.
And thanks are due to Meister Gotteswinter for this great idea!
I see the bar stock you said you made a groove, but ,how did you affix that bar? set screw inside the bore??
I like to buy one ! :)
Hey Stephan, think it would work if the part was clamped and you ran the tool over it? Call it the fingersaver.
Dennis Skerb I tried it out handheld for bigger workpieces, works also very good, but its not very dangerous anyway - The area where the finger can be cut is very small. I think a woodworkers routertable is way more dangerous :)
for plastics we just have a piece of high speed steel mounted in a corner like that, it has a much longer guide channel which helps a lot with getting a grip on the part and guiding it through.
***** Like a scraper?
+Stefan Gotteswinter Nah its just like the device you have there but a ground high speed steel cutter mounted rigidly in the corner of the guide rails. Only works on plastic but it does a great job. Its not motorized.
Very nice. Congrats eh... Ü
Have you considered building one using the side of cutter? Think it would cut nicer and you can use the whole cutter..not just the end.
I used deburring machines that use the side cutting edges of an endmill - They are no fun to use, you have to be very carefull not to get the part thrown trough the shop.
Probably with a regular endmill, a very steep helix might work. I have a bought machine called Beaver for about 15 years which uses about a 3/4" diameter cutter with steep helix using the OD, many teeth so the cutting edges are close together, [smoother operation] razor sharp and does a wonderful job and very quiet. I Can slide the tool in or out until the whole length is used up. Seems I can't find new cutters for it anymore, [company no longer around]...and I can't get the old ones sharpened. I'll keep looking and if all fails I might try a small steep helix endmill. Keep up the good work!
A Burr Beaver? Harig tools sells them now.
Thanks Stefan....yes, that's the one...wow, $110.00 for a new cutter, I should try a endmill first.
Chamfer min hight ? Thanks
Motor link
DEAR SIR CAN YOU GIVE YOU DIA OF ALUMINUM ROD AND HEIGHT WE ARE TRY TO MAKE ON MY WORKSHOP
REPLY
How would you round over corners?
Carter W Hern Not with that device ;)
It would more look like a woodworkers routertable. In fact a routertable would work perfectly for that purpose, using a small carbide roundoverbit.
This is scary to me. I see you using it in other videos and it's scary then too. I guess it's the hand feeding, the steel work piece, and the 10,000 rpm cutter.
Thank you Stefan for the design!
I made an adaptation of it to suit my edge trimmer/router.
Vielen Dank - es funktioniert sehr gut, besonders mit Stahlteilen.
metalworkforums.com/f303/t199130-deburring-chamfering-machine/latest/post1905600#post1905600
I was thinking to use diamond wheel like this. Any reason I should not? I have some 70W knife and drill bit sharpener that I was thinking to use. I am not so much interested in deep chamfer but deburring mostly.