How to remove blades and stump guard on a Howse brush hog

Brush hog blades and router or stump guard removal

[@YouTuber-mc2el]

Working Man I read about 15 or so comments and nobody told you that the blade bolt nuts can be accessed from the top of the bush hog. You don't need to destroy your blade bolts and cut them off. That is what the hole you see on top is for. It will make your life much easier. I also realize this comment is very late to the party, but better late than never. Let me know if this helps you.

[@brianhay4024]

Many older Howse mowers, including mine, don't have access holes on the deck.

[@ralfie8801]

@@brianhay4024
I have a predecessor to the Howse branded mowers, a HI-CO PM5 and it has the access hole.

[@ulricwhite99]

I wondered why he cut those bolts and destroyed those blades in the process

[@rustymaggot]

@@brianhay4024 so cut access hole?

[@ChuckSC1982]

​@brianhay4024 you can see it during this video.

[@dipstick5869]

Well Working Man you had me worried there buddy, I didn't see the castle nut on the spindle, all I saw was you leaning over in front of it a few times and I knew what was about to happen. Thank the Lord you had the nut in place! I'm doing the same job right now on my cutter! God Bless and Thanks for the laugh!🤣🙋‍♂️

[@kevm9163]

Hahaha I loved when the heat released it, your reaction was priceless. Good to see what I have to look forward to. Thanks

[@dipstick5869]

This video is 6 years old Kev, but the job is still the same right? I was cringing every time he leaned over and looked straight at the stump jumper. It could have popped and knocked him out cold. That stump jumper made him Jump and I laughed till I cried! I hope that you completed your job safely and are doing well. 🙋‍♂️

[@normanwhite7182]

So many professionals and critics, you did a job and saved some money as well as learned some things along the way. I was that way when first learning to work on cars, you have a go, make some mistakes and get a wealth of experience. Good on you for having a go and showing us your video. We can all learn things from others, including the critics--the important thing is that we learn. Some few may know it all but they are the rare exception.

[@donaldb3628]

It still doesn't justify foolishness!

[@robrice2004]

Good job, its funny but I tried tackling this job about five years ago and had no clue as to what I was doing so after watching you do it and getting a few ideas I might give it a try again. Thanks

[@dipstick5869]

Better late than never, huh Robert? 🤣 I hope you finally got it done. I have to pull my stump jumper off also, so I can change out the gearbox bolts. I know that it will be a heck of a job too!🙋‍♂️

[@anthonyscott9936]

Is it me, or could he not have just pulled it off after removing the big nut? The two bolts were just holding the blades right?

[@mrfixitup]

Great Video, Thanks for taking the time to show what a pain in the rear these things are to work on! l have to replace mine on other side also. Thanks again for your time!

[@chapmaker46]

I like a guy that doesn't give up..

[@brianmartin7964]

My grandpa had a rule that he taught me at an early age of 4. Righty tighty, lefty lucy

[@ralfie8801]

It’s funny how that works 99.9% of the time, isn’t it?

[@ammo4uragingjudge559]

Those old things can be a bear to get off. Good job sir.

[@donaldb3628]

He really ought to get someone to help him that knows what they are doing!

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

Nobody wanted to help me maybe you come over and help

[@stonewall1539]

Just came across this...LOL. A simple socket through that LARGE hole in the frame is for breaking the nuts loose on the bolts for those blades to easily remove them. Cutting torch is hilarious.I am still amazed sometimes at how much thought goes into doing something wrong.

[@lechandler4041]

Did not see that hole until the end of the video, but you are right. That is probably explained in the manual, but even if the manual is missing, a simple observation of the hole should cause a bell to go off. There is usually a simple answer to any question, if you can just figure it out.

[@rickreedy9330]

Have a1998 5' howse.. it didnt have the hole cut in to access the blade bolts!.. Had to remove the stump jumper assembly first to replace blades, Now have a hole in deck for the next time..

[@dwjw1]

The hole in the frame would not have done him any good. The bolts were turning in the feature on them that was supposed to refrain them from turning. Unless he puts a different stump jumper on it, he will always have that problem when he needs to remove the blades after this. Nothing hilarious about it - it beats fighting with it for several hours (if you have the torch handy). Those bolts can be purchased for about $30 apiece to 2 for $35 (from TSC), depending on size and fit.

[@paulromsky9527]

At 3:33 you did catch yourself (a minute later) and relalized the crown bolt comes off counterclockwise. Before your realized that you were pulling UP on the bar (the wrong way) but pulling up is not as easy as pushing down. So you were in the best position (in the beginning) to push Down from the 9 O'clock position on the bar to turn the nut counterclockwise to loosen it.
By pushing, you simply put your whole body into the torque, as you push down your weight is transferred from the ground to the bar. Even if you pushed so hard, you could lift yourself from the ground to get the maximum torque your body weight can deliver. By pulling up, most people don't have the upper arm strength to apply that same amount of torque. So "leaning" into the lever is easier on your body.

[@WanderingSeneca]

Just some insight....... that 3" hole above/or aft of the gear box..... ah, its for taking out the blade bolts........

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

Not when the blades bolts are stripped doesn't do nothing for you except turning

[@ralfie8801]

That’s when you cut the nuts off the bolts through that hole so you don’t have to cut them twice from the bottom. I cut the nuts off mine with a torch and saved the bolts so they could be reused. The nuts were rusted on too tight to come loose after 25 years.

[@jasperpetersen8241]

You really are determined you go man

[@DavidTheCarpenter]

15 minutes of 'what not to do'... Nuff said.

[@austinaubinoe]

The alternative is just drain the gear oil out and fill the gearbox with JD #0 corn head grease!

[@philliphall5198]

#2 grease and Lukas hub oil or stp

[@philliphall5198]

I built a puller to remove mine 30 years ago and still use it
Grade.8 all tread and 2 inch bar
Hard to drill. Thru bar lolol 😊

[@stevebradish7055]

you should have called this How NOT to change Bush Hog blade

[@moaski]

Have you replaced the seal on the top end (where the pto shaft goes into the gearbox)? That's where my Howse is leaking.

[@AYSKOFI]

You really should take this video down before someone decides to follow your lead and also destroys their bushhog.

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

AYSKOFI thanks I'll take that advice as I'm cutting with my brush hog into consideration but it sounds like nonsense to me

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

Like you know something are you just making a comment you're not going to help just watch

[@TheGhungFu]

Heating your shaft that hot destroys the gearbox seal. Yeah,.. at least we know exactly how to not remove the stump-bump plate. Best way? Cut 4 wood wedges and drive them under the plate. Spray the shaft with plenty of liquid wrench. Wait a while and tap the shaft with the nut still part way on. Keep driving the wedges in and tapping the shaft.
Works a lot better than melting your gearbox seal and destroying the steel's temper.

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

@@TheGhungFu wasn't really worried about the seal cuz that's what I was replacing

[@dwjw1]

There is nothing in this video that might destroy his brush cutter. Perhaps tightening the castle nut on the center shaft was not helpful, but it might have actually reduced the cohesion between the shaft and the stump jumper hub. And he did not heat the shaft that much - the shaft and seal are designed to take much higher heat than what was most likely applied to it. He heated the hub and that is what finally broke it loose. OK, if there is a chance that he damaged the gear box it might have been the seal, but he will be able to tell that almost immediately upon removal of the stump jumper. And that seal was what he was going to replace in the first place.
@T

[@philliphall5198]

Spot weld bolt to blade makes it easier to remove nut

[@dezldoc1]

Not sure why people make video when they have no clue what they are doing.

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

+dezldoc1 Not sure why you comment when you have no clue thanks

[@dezldoc1]

The easier way is to leave the blades and stump jumper on. Get a puller, measure it's spread. Take 1/2 of that and mark the bottom on each side of the center nut. On the center of the bar under the stump jumper drill a hole and tap it, say 1/2 USS. Use a puller to remove it as a unit. When you're done put some bolts in to keep the holes clean.
You put too much stress on the shaft, bearings.
I could change that seal in less than an hour with a break included.
Clear that up for you?
Still not sure what the appeal is of filming a job you know so little about.

[@MotivatedMetalworks]

At what point did you start making faces at the screen? :)
Like a horror movie... Everyone in the audience knows what's coming isn't good for our main character, but they don't see it.

[@dezldoc1]

Not long

[@MotivatedMetalworks]

+dezldoc1 We held tesion on the stump jumper and popped the shaft nose a couple times to see if she'd move easy; no dice. So we pulled out the rosebud and put some heat into the hub. 3 pops with the mallet and it was off.
Too easy!

[@bennyrussell5551]

across or acrosst ?
damn!

[@benjybaldwin773]

Righty tighty lefty Loosey

[@benjybaldwin773]

Wondering why you are trying to put a pipe wrench on the blade bolt when it should be a big carriage Bolt

[@topflight2358]

Was this real ???

[@sunrisechaser4796]

The counter sink is how the lathe holds part when being made

[@semco72057]

You should have put some Liquid Wrench or WD-40 on the bolts before lifting the brush hog and after applying the rust remover several times, then lift the deck and go about removing the nuts from on top. It looks like you are taking entire unit apart. By applying the torch to the stump plate, you may have ruined it.

[@WeekendPursuitOutdoors]

I probably would have just filled the gear case with grease! I've seen them run for years like that with no problems!

[@TexFarmer]

I was nervous watching this with the way you have that brush hog propped up in the air like that.

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

the bucket had it propped up thanks

[@puterami123]

Working Man
Not at ten minutes on. The bucket is on the ground. At 14 minutes you damn near wiggle the BH onto yourself!

[@michaelmcclure8673]

The bolts on the back of the blade bar was a good idea, but the deck metal would have to much give to work on most people mowers.🤔

[@shoehorny6844]

I have the exact same rotary cutter. My gearbox also leaked oil and although the cutters turned, they were not cutting. Everyone told me taking the gearbox was going to be a tough job, but it only took me about half an hour working by myself, using hand tools! I first removed the shaft going to the PTO. I then removed the 4 bolts that held the gearbox to the base. I pulled out the cotter pin from the shaft that holds the bottom plate (with the blades on), then simply removed the nut. It came right off for me. The plate held in place and at first I thought this was going to be the hard part, pulling it off, but I took an 8' long shale bar, stuck it through the peep hole on the top of the base (near the gear box) and tapped on the plate. I spun the plate around underneath and after a few minutes, the whole thing dropped off. I am going to paint my base blue to match my New Holland tractor. I got the replacement gearbox from some guy who sells them for about $89 with free shipping on eBay. Also, with the plate off, I sharpened my blades with an angle grinder (they looked more like rounded clubs then blades). Good luck! Sorry to see you had to do all this work for what was an easy job for me.....

[@dwjw1]

Good idea to try to get it to fall off using the method you used. I would suggest to leave the castle nut partially engaged so that the assembly did not fall off onto the floor (in case you change your mind or don't have to remove it totally). Also, if possible leave the cutter connected to the 3-pt tractor and set the brush cutter down onto jack stands so that you can get underneath to view things.
You might look up sharpening these blades on You Tube. The pro on one You Tube video who does this for a business says to not sharpen brush cutter blades - claims it shortens their life. He is in southern Mo. - check out the video.

[@fanaticforager6610]

GDay, 🦘 slow fusion is the dictating factor, so it’s a classic, “Heat ♨️ & greet 🔨 “ 😉🤙🏼🌅

[@roygreen58]

The saying "there's more than one way to skin a cat" is true in this case but some people make a Hell of a mess. No disrespect meant

[@clbrze69]

why in the heck did you go for the cutting torch on those bolts. good grief

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

+Brian Lane Good suggestion, but remind me again what was it?

[@rockymountainman7]

Guess what the hole in the deck line up with...

[@dwjw1]

You didn't pay very good attention - he could turn the entire bolt and nut by hand. He could have reached through the access hole till the cows came home and not gotten the one blade off. If he couldn't hold it with a pipe wrench, it was not going to come off - he used the only reasonable method, since he had the torch handy.

[@billyduff3947]

Everyone has there own way of doing things. Too many ppl. criticize others, so what if he didnt do it your way,its done he didnt have to pay someone to do it. So leave it at that !

[@WillaHerrera]

It would be neat if there were some kind of thing that was made of a protective material that is like the shape of a human hand that could be used to protect the hands. Maybe leather or a similar material.

[@deanmurray4953]

flip over it wll fall off (good job)

[@michaelvincent5376]

“Flame On!!!”

[@rickkatz4692]

We just stuffed a banana in the gearbox when it leaked.

[@rickkatz4692]

The peels that is.

[@intn14]

The bolts holding the gearbox on to my bushhog are loose. The stump jumper would have to come off in order to tighten them. I think I'll just have to live with them being somewhat loose. Seems like they would design these to make it easier to take the stump jumper off.

[@christinee2749]

I have this exact problem except 2 bolts came completely off and the other two are loose so living with it is deffos not an option. Is there an easier way to get the stump guard off? :-/

[@intn14]

I finally was able to tighten the bolts after removing the stump guard. Getting the bush hog up on it's side is key to this job like he is showing. Remove the cotter that holds on the king nut. I was able to remove the king nut with an impact gun and a 1 1/2 inch socket. The stump jumper might then be stuck on there and you have to use a sledge hammer to bang it to loosen it. You might need 2 people to then tighten the nuts one person on opposite sides of the bush hog. One person to tighten the nut and the other person to hold the bolt so it doesn't spin. I was able to reach around to both sides but I only have a 4 ft. bush hog.

[@intn14]

You don't have to get out a cutting torch to take off the stump jumper/stump guard, the blade will come off with the stump jumper.

[@christinee2749]

Thank you for replying, did you alternate hammering on each side near the edges of the stump guard ?

[@intn14]

Near the edges or outside is probably best. Once you have the cotter key and the castle nut off it should then slide off. There is nothing else holding it on but it can be really stuck on there.

[@tommydykes7715]

Mine came off fairly easy with 3/4inch drive breaker bar and 4 foot cheater

[@rickkatz4692]

After a while , we just changed the oil.

[@AYSKOFI]

You have a way of seeing everything in reverse of how it would logically work. You must have practiced this for a long time. If you had simply pulled up the parts manual for that mower online, you would have saved a bit of change. Remember, Google is your friend.

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

AYSKOFI Thanks

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

+AYSKOFI Good suggestion

[@Roberto7474001]

Working man who dsnt know which way to loosen a nut.... Also I knew you had never touched a brush hog when you tried to use a pipewrench on the blade bolts lol

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

I'm sorry but I don't think you ever touched an old onethere's only two left hand thread that keeps it from coming off when machine is turning if you don't know that I don't even want to talk to you

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

Oh yeah you can go back to sleep now

[@Roberto7474001]

@@Iliketoweldandbraze Well that wasnt one of them so you were still turning it the wrong way, you old bat. It's too bad you dont want to talk to me because I actually know how to losten a nut and bolt, I could give ya some pointers ;D

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

I talk too fast I'm sorry explain how you would have done it

[@Roberto7474001]

@@Iliketoweldandbraze 1, dont flatter yourself. 2, I would've done it the right way i.e opposite as yours. Crazy old ass

[@colplowboy]

you must a real old house brand bushhog most of them take a square shank shoulder bolt

[@dwjw1]

There are at least three different method used to create the feature between the hole and the bolt to stop it from turning. Two of them use shank shapes (flat or squared) with matching hole. The most prevalent is the slot in the hole with a matching tang formed on the bolt's shank - the tang appears to be formed by stamping the bolt in such a way as to make a substantial amount of material form the tang or protrusion that fits the slot in the hole.
The consistent use of Brush Hog and Bush Hog for all cutters is not really helpful. There are several brands and many of them are built as heavily and using the same or similar design features as the Bush Hog brand - all of them are referred to as bush hog or brush hog. A more generic term is 'brush cutter', but it does not matter much - we all know what we are referring to. But the methods each of the manufacturers uses is similar and the designs are similar - but they are definitely not the same.

[@robertcotton8529]

If you can't speak respectfully don't speak. Surely people are not such jerks in person as they are on RUclips.

[@sunrisechaser4796]

Took the words write out of my text ,lefty ect.

[@flynryan3053]

mine just poped right off... lol

[@larrysnoddy7841]

A breaker bar and a 8 foot pipe broke mine lose.

[@thechamberstalk]

Oh. My. Goodness.

[@tonynewman777]

I could have sworn some of the brush hogs Threads were opposite

[@dwjw1]

I doubt that they are. The splined shaft is slightly tapered so that as you tighten the nut, it is forced farther onto the shaft. But the taper is only very slight. As Workman says, the fact that a cotter pin (cahtah pin) was installed suggests that it is right hand and he turned it the wrong way, thus making his job to remove it a little bit more difficult. But it was going to be difficult anyway - though turning it on farther only made it worse, it was only about 5 or 6 degrees and should not have made an appreciable amount of difference because it also loosened any cohesion due to aging and use.

[@johnreichert8958]

WOW!!!!

[@GreenbrokePete]

I’d have lost my shit, shot the neighbor on the riding mower, and drove it to your place to finish cleaning up your place? I’ve seen three videos of everyday Joes try to remove these stump jumpers . What a fiasco

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

Everybody wants to be a Joe how did you know my first name was Joe

[@TheBigclow]

it's "cotter pin", not "Carter pin".

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

are you a school teacher

[@WelshRabbit]

My dad perpetually insists on calling it a "Carter" pin, too, despite numerous attempts at showing him the correct name is "cotter" -- not Carter. I did once succeed in getting his to repeat 5 times, "Gotta get a cotta key." He soon relapsed. Something about old dogs and new tricks, I s'pose.

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

@@WelshRabbit actually I think it has something to do as to how you hear the words more than how you pronounce them

[@WillaHerrera]

Jesus man. What in the Holy hell are you doing? I thought you started out with a leaking seal? Not one single thing you've done half way through your video has been done correctly. Ok ok.. I take that back. You finally got the output shaft retaining nut off AFTER TIGHTENING IT. You cut your blade bolts off for no reason. You had the torch right in your hand that you should have used to heat up the stump jump hub and expand it. Omg and now your beating on the output shaft with a hammer.

[@dwjw1]

Jesus man - you could not be more wrong! His methods fit his situation - perhaps he did do things differently than you would, but what have you to gain by dissing him? Yes, he turned the nut the wrong way - pretty bad, but he recognized his error and the error caused him a negligible amount of trouble (he might have made it harder to pull the stump jumper off the shaft). Tightening the bolt might actually have improved his situation. We don't know.
As far as removing the bolts with a torch - did you not notice that the bolt and nut were turning in his hand? How is he going to remove it, access hole or not? He couldn't get it off using a pipe wrench. That bolt was not coming loose - guaranteed!
For example, I have a Mohawk 720 which is built much more heavily than the equivalent Bush Hog. I cannot get the nuts off the bolts for the blades. They take a 1-5/8" socket and I have applied over 600 to 700 ft-lbs to them with a breaker bar and about 5 ft long 1-1/2" steel pipe cheater. I think that I have placed at least burst of at least 200 lbs at 5 ft away which means that over 1000 ft-lbs was applied to no avail. I cannot get on it with a 1" air wrench because I would have to disassemble the rear wheel or cut another access hole. I am going to drop the whole assembly off the splined shaft and take it to my shop to remove them - the easiest way will be to cut them off - yes, with a torch. The new bolts cost $35 for a pair from TSC.
Do you have any idea how absolutely ridiculous your concern is for him beating on the output shaft with a hammer is? He did have the castle nut in place, so where's the beef? Don't you realize how much of a beating that shaft takes when the cutter is in operation, let alone when it engages a single obstacle such as a stump or a rock? It is built for that. Pounding on it is nothing by comparison.
Also, he took some heat for heating the stump jumper hub as you suggested (correctly) that he should do. And he did just that shortly afterwards. The method he used should have easily removed the hub, but it didn't. He applied heat at the hub which worked.
We have to realize that the man has his situation, his tools and if the unit is not functioning, it is so much scrap iron. In his situation only he can assess what the cost of doing any step is going to be and whether or not it is worth it TO HIM, not us.
Great job, Working Man!

[@jsimpson8018]

One other point is if you put these videos up you had better grow a thick skin. If you look on the deck of your cutter chances are there is an access hole where by you can get to the blade bolts and NOT have to cut them off. Other important tip is to do this procedure sooner than every 10 years or don't buy a used piece of shit off of Craigs List. A good review of an owner's manual will enlighten you as to how to do this to inspect and replace the seals on a MUCH more frequent basis so then you can make a informative video instead of a funny one where we all wait till it rolls over onto of you. Have't finished the video yet, I assume that will happen. What a riot, When that hub broke free as you were standing there with the torch. Almost pissed my pants. Anyway, now you need to buy a new grease seal cause you just melted the old one. A tip for when you do this sometime in the next 15 years, as you use a PROPER hub puller tap on either side of it along the cross bar and it will pop right off through harmonic vibration and no need to BURN shit off. Oh and as I watch the video i saw the deck access hole. What a moron.

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

J Simpson thanks always looking for comments at build a person up your great help wish you were here

[@stevebradish7055]

you ever heard of google?

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

steve bradish 4 years ago there was nothing on there about repairing a brush hog believe it or not I mentioned it in the video

[@jimhutchins4805]

This guy is not a mechanic...all he needed to do is take a 1" drive impact and loosen the 1.7/16" bolts from the top( typically at a tire store for heavy trucks) and these fall out with a big lock washer on top. A cutting torch, get real. I hope no one goes by his video!

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

Just trying to get the field cut never said I was a mechanic

[@colplowboy]

You know when you put the heat to the shaft you transfered heat hot to melt your top seal so you can just replace both your top and bottom seals now also you could have marked the bottom of your deck when you burned out the blade bolts and cut you a hole in the deck so you could remove your blade bolts next time with a socket and pull handle or breaker bar never put a charter pipe on a ratchet it will bust the housing you must anew video before someone spend a whole lot of money for broken tools and parts they did not even need to fix this easy problem you could have just used a long pry bar and and hand sledge hammer hit your blade bolts on the head on one then the other while applying pressure on the blade holder you did spend a lot of
money just to replace a oil seal that only cost $10.00 or less I know I does these jobs before always ask if your not sure of what you are doing you spent at least $75.00 dollars on a $20.00 job tops!!!!

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

+colplowboy Are you sure that you are commenting on the right video, I haven't slightest idea what you're talking about. There is no seal on the bolts that hold the blades on. There is a seal on to stump guard. You cannot put a socket on the top of A brush hog bolts it is a square countersink I can explain what that means if you don't understand it I would gladly explain it to you if need be.Just look up brush hog bolt and you will get the idea, I think.
By the way the bolts are only $5 a piece the seal was $2 I actually spent $12 and that's another reason I think you're on the wrong video

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

I do not think so

[@ralfie8801]

And that is what our school tax dollars are paying for. That sucker would have to age out of school if I were the principal, because there’s no way he’d ever test his way out of school.

[@colplowboy]

Sir I know all about bush hog bolts they all have nuts no matter if they're square or round in the hole shape you can clearly see a access hole in your video behind the gearbox housing that is where you put a 3\4 drive socket with a extension( your bushog probably has 2 inch nuts on the blade bolt) and a pull handle or breaker bar 3\4 drive size and and that is how you remove your blades BTW why didn' t you just take your blade pan off with the blades still attached to it The heat thing I mentioned is those gearbox or made of cast steel which conduct heat real fast you stayed on the blade holder pan collar long enough with that torch that you heated up your top seal and you will no doubt suffer a leaking seal there to in the future You just went about it in wrong way just to replace a seal you know OVER

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

colplowboy There was no way to hold a counter sunk bolt that is stript I didn't put any heat where there was any seal that bolt turned off

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

+colplowboy is stript

[@dwjw1]

The bolt was obviously stripped where the hole feature and the matching feature of the bolt were intended to keep the bolt from turning. That design feature had failed in his instance. There are other instances where it might be feasible to use the torch to cut the bolt off, such as when the nuts defy over 600 ft-lbs applied to them or when you know that it is going to take much more time to remove them than they cost to replace. These bolts including nuts are about $35 for two up to $32 apiece. If you have the torch handy, it is much less difficult to remove the bolts by burning off the head than it is to break a perfectly good 3/4" breaker bar using a 4 or 5 ft pipe on its end, but still unable to break the nuts loose.
The 'hole feature' that I am referring to is the slot or flat in the hole that matches the tang or flattened part of the bolt, acting as a key. I have seen at least three different ways that the bolts are made.

[@bobbywilkett1094]

The man done a great job with what he knows when brush hogging when when wire gets wrapped your gearbox if you use a torch it will ruin your seal so you can save money by using tube grease in gearbox you can cut access hole in top of bushhog then use a big pin a a big hammer to knock stump jumper off or you can pay to come to your farm and fix it for you

[@ralfie8801]

It’s funny all these people talking about ruining the bottom seal by using the torch. The best part is the only reason he’s taking it apart in the first place is to change the seal that was already leaking before he supposedly burnt it up with the torch.

[@geraldtakala1721]

Not the best mechanic

[@bill45colt]

its NOT a brushhog,,,,,its a BUSHhog,,,,,

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

Depends on what you're cutting I don't cut bushes I cut brush

[@Iliketoweldandbraze]

Oh that's right I use my brush cutter for that not my brush hog