Bush Hog Complete Service in 12 Minutes
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- Опубликовано: 13 июл 2024
- I needed to service my Bush Hog so I thought it would be a good time of year to do a front-to-back service. If you take out the time I was just explaining what I was doing, it took about 12 minutes.
The first thing I did was to remove the PTO shaft and grease everything on it. That includes the U-joints, the shear bolt assembly, and the plastic shield. I'm fortunate to have a PTO shaft that comes off easily from the gearbox, so that was a fairly easy job.
Next, I got a 15/16" socket and open end wrench and tightened all of the bolts on the cutter. Brush Hogs have a lot of vibration, which tends to loosen bolts. I hit all of the bolts on the A-frame, the tail wheel assembly, and the gearbox. You don't want any of those bolts to get loose.
My check of my gearbox oil was next, and it showed I had enough oil, but it was a milky color, which means it has drawn some moisture. That could have come from humidity and is pretty normal when you live in an area that has a lot of moisture in the air. There's enough lubricity there to bush hog a few more acres, but I need to change it, and I'll do that in a future video. On my machine, you have to use a suction pump to get all of the oil out and replace it with new.
I greased the tailwheel, including the yoke that attaches it to the bracket, and the wheel itself.
Finally, I got my flashlight and looked under the machine for anything wrapped around the shaft that leads to the blade pan. It's not uncommon to find baler twine or wire around there, and left unattended, either type of material can run up the shaft and take out a seal and fail a gearbox. Fortunately, everything was fine there. I also looked at the blades, which were extended, if you hit something in the field, it can push a blade up into the blade pan and having one blade out and one blade in can just about shake you off the tractor seat.
Outside of needing to change the milky oil in the gearbox, everything was good and ready to go back to the field. I can continue brush hogging with a clear conscience.
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Unfortunately, you missed important areas on the PTO shaft.
Pull it in two pieces and apply grease to the mating surfaces.
Next, grease the spring plunger on the end of each spline.
Finally, apply grease by spreading it around inside the spline ends.
Can't wait to see the video of changing the gear box oil.
Perfect timing for this video. I just got my bush hog hooked up for the first mowing of the season
Good video Mike. I just did the same thing, serviced it and mowed hemlock.
I've been battling hemlock over here, too. One of these days, I want to take care of that culvert area along the road.
Thanks for the informative videos. I would recommend a locknlube connector for anyone with a grease gun it really makes things easy
I bought a 296 BushHog about eighteen years ago and discovered the deck is rusting through from underneath. The decking is probably 3/16 thick and it is the area rear of the gearbox. I put a strip of 3/8 X 8 inch rubber belting across the front several years ago to keep the grass off the back of the tractor and I think it caused wet grass to stick to the underside of the deck more than it did before.
One thing I did about a year ago is buy a bag of those little plastic zerk caps. They install with a little plastic ring around the zerk so they stay there, and the cap snaps down over the zerk. Keeps them from getting so dirty/greasy and having to be wiped off; saves some time. I would think that they also help to keep the zerk balls inside from rusting and getting stuck, which has been an occasional problem in the past. Every now and then they'll vibrate loose and just hang there, not covering the zerk like they should, but all in all they're worth getting.
Bought a lube shuttle and I love it. I even change the grease per application with no problems. Surprised you don't have a lock n lube or equivalent
Just a fabulous video, Mike. This was good, real time demonstration that we all need to do. Thanks.
I have used a Lock'n'lube grease tool on my grease gun and it really makes greasing easier.
Great video, taught me some things I needed to inspected and service or I never even thought about. Thank you so much.
I appreciate you Mike. You do a great job with fundamentals in a way I can understand it.
Thanks Mike for another worthy video. I do not own a brush hog, but I always watch your channel because I want to be smart like you. You make us all much smarter. Can't thank you enough. You are the grandfather of all these tractor videos.
Mike. Another great video. Down here in Curaçao your tips videos are a great help and really educational. Keep them coming! Thanks !
"ya really wanna slow down your operation?"...
Love the arid sense of humor you have at times...
This was a great how to for someone who has zero experience maintaining a bush hog. What I found most helpful, was that you showed what a grease point was (most other videos say where they are, and then have far away shots showing them doing something at those locations)
Good Job TM!!
Always a pleasure Mike! 😁👨🚒
That little bush hog is a great machine.
Great video Mike.
Fantastic video! I guess I need to service the old brush hog!
Mike - excellent video. And love that you did it in real time, to give us an estimate of what an expert takes. Videos that are edited just miss all the fine moments when you struggle with a bolt. I liked the foot on the allen key. I would not have thought of that, but pulled a cheater bar from the collection I keep handy.
Hey brother, your neighbor in east central Mo here. Don’t forget to check the torque on the tail wheel axle. I’ve had them falls off in the field. Keep the videos coming. 👍
Thanks Mike, I just did mine also. One thing to note, might want to check your vent on the gearbox as well. Mine was stopped up. Really enjoy your videos!!
This is a great video. Thanks
Good reminders!
Good job Mike...thanks for the reminder !
pc
Yes !!! On the leaf blower. Not only for the B. H. but tractor, especially around air inlet screens. Not just for beauty but fire safety as well.
Thanks for the video
I also liked and subscribe, I do a lot tractor work and look for the future videos. I got Kubotas a M5-091 and a M-7060 and those dog on soot filters drive me crazy, go onto that filtration regime, filtration mode, and choke out my RPMs all the time. Thanks again.
Hello Mike great video. Electric grease gun they work great best thing I bought. Have a great day.
If you have a pick-up truck, you can back up to the PTO and you can lay it in there instead of chase it everywhere to grease it. If you tractor has a front loader you can lay it in that. That would speed you up. I never work on the ground when I can keep from it for anything. Too old for that.
You’re certainly right about the RUclips channel plug. Shoot, reshoot, reshoot again because you screwed up the audio, take 2 hours to edit out 90% of what you shot because people will start snoring on you and then publish it hoping someone will actually watch it. I never miss yours. You’re the best Tractor guy on RUclips. Happy Memorial Day 😊
Thank you for your kind words!
I was just watching your electric fence video. You gave a lot of good information, which will help me for my next electric fence project. Thank you for working on that video; it's very helpful. -Tractor Mike's wife
@@TractorMike thank You Mike.
Thanks for the tips! With the heat we've been having here in S. TX I'll probably only mow twice this year so should be able to do this both times (if I get out and do it 5am so it's only in the 90s 😎)
granted -40f up here in WY kinda sucks but i sure dont miss that heat. ill take the cold anyday.
Thanks, I'm servicing the same identical squealer bush hog today and tomorrow, because I'm also servicing a tiller .
You are correct about the pain it is to grease the shaft if it is held by bolts...Also, I am not sure how to check the seal under the gearbox...I found out the hard way when one blew out and the gear oil was lost and the gearbox was ruined. The new box I had to put on it was several hundred bucks....the man at the shop I ordered from said to run heavy duty grease in the box instead of using the gear oil....this might protect it for awhile, but if you do not check frequently, you will not know if the box has lost the lubricant. I bought one of the little attachments for the grease gun that allows prongs at the end to grip the zerk....easy to get off and on and allows no holding once attached...only problem is it adds some length to the end and if a tight spot it is not as easy to get in....right angle attachment and another gun solves this
I did exactly the same thing! My 2nd grease gun is a small one.
Enjoy your videos. Really good information across many topics. As a tip, I use different colored grease to make sure I know it is full.
or if its really dirty on the outside you know its full when you see the clean stuff.
That's the same way I do it but I have a slip clutch so I loosen the bolts and slip it and re tighten them. It is a easy piece to maintain.
I also noticed that moisture had gotten in the gear box and needs replacing. Looking forward to seeing your next video on this subject
God bless!
Hey Mike, Lock-n-Lube, your welcome.
Excellent video! Thanks! Could you consider a video series on compact tractor hay making equipment? Farm Maxx, Ibex, etc? With the compact tractor market as it is, smaller-scale haying equipment seems to be gaining interest. Thanks for the consideration!
Hey Mike,
1980 just called, they want their flash light back please.
🙂
🤣 i cant believe anyone still uses those relics.
Well, they can't have it! It still works...:)
another great video! Go Chiefs!!
Mike great informative video, for the life of me I can't understand why they don't put a drain plug on top side of gear box, it sure is a hassle to get all the gear oil out. Though I have a finish mower but same on gear box except mine has a dip stick.
how about a bush hog blade sharpening vid?
Same tractor and same bushhog as me, and I bet there's a couple of 12mm wrenches and spare shear bolts in your tool storage compartment
I've changed a few gearbox seals, some taken out by twine, some by fencing, but most were due to telephone drops that the telephone repairmen just dropped after repairs.
Hi Mike you need to lube drive shaft where it slides in and out.
gives me some ideas. now i got something to do tomorrow.
*video idea: tractor hydraulic fluids and filters*
Check out the new Ryobi battery grease gun! It takes half the time to grease my tractor. Love it.
You need to get you a "LockNLube" grease coupler,, they work awesome and you don't have the struggle getting it on and off the zirk
Looking for some grab handles for my JD 3032 with a model 300E loader,
but not finding anything since the 300E doesn't have any pre-drilled
holes. I'd also like something to mount some mirrors on, so any ideas
anyone?
Unlike yours, my squealer 600 has grease fittings on the plastic shields. Thankfully it does have the ability to remove the shaft from the rear.
I really like the design of that bushhog. My land pride has that ridiculous plastic housing over the pto shafts. Almost impossible to grease the rear joint. I will probably remove it and fabricate a flip up housing for it. Great video! We are all guilty of neglecting our cutters ... or i i know i am anyway
Hopefully, you washed it before you touched it afterwards…I spend all of my time searching for my tools too😀
Perfect timing for me as well! Got a similar video for a rototiller? ;) (I'll look)
Good job. I'd critique only that I'd wear gloves and use a LockNlube on my grease gun. It really aids in greasing those zerks. You also didn't check that tailwheel tire pressure (Ha!).
Looks like you have the same problem that I had. Hard to get the fitting to hold on the zerk. I got a locknlube gizzmo that holds the fitting tight and makes tractor lubing a much easier job.
Add another vote for the LockNLube grease gun coupler. It makes greasing SO much easier!
Me too!👍🏻🇺🇦☮️✌🏻
I to have the Lock-n-lube. I really like it. My dad asked why I bought it and I showed him how easy it was to put on and take off. He walked over and grabbed his old grease gun, he said son, the ends on the grease guns adjust, you turn them to loosen and tighten them on the zerk. I was like you are crazy old man, then I grabbed another grease gun, sure enough, they adjust. Yet, I still like my Lock-n-lube even though the old man showed me up.
Another vote for LockNLue coupler. Even though you can adjust a regular Grease gun coupler on and off, LockNLube is much quicker on and off.
You should check them out. It may be a product you may want to add to your website too. I love mine. Looking to get the longer XL version for an additional gun I have. Just saying...
@@BradMyers did not know that. Thanks!
Great video Mike! I am replacing the stump jumper pan on mine today as it broke in half somehow last year. I was wondering how tight those bolts holding the blade on should be. They were so tight/rusted before it took a LOT of effort to swing the blades and I’m wondering if this could cause vibration if the blades are not able to swing all the way perfectly out.
yes to the vibration and around 400ftlbs on the pan bolt and at least 150ftlbs or more on the blade bolts. im just trying to remember what ive seen on YT. check with the manufacturer first or look it up on YT as a last resort. personally i plan to use a lot of anti seize on all those bolts. as they seize on over time it could take 800ftlbs to remove what only took 400ftlbs to install. id prefer to keep removal the same as install.
Yes to plenty of anti seize on the blade bolts. Also put it on the area of he blade that moves in the mount allowing the blade to pivot.
The bolts on the a frame act like a suspension. The long arms going to the back are springs. Do they have nylock nuts on them?
Ol tractor Mike with the Popeye forearms!
It's the spinach :).
Take the chain off that shield and you won't have to greez it. I too prefer the shear bolt type.
First thing I always check is that the blades are free and spin on the attachment pin easily. It only takes getting your cutter in the dirt a few times to bind them up. I know, why are your blades in the dirt anyway HaHa. Well we all know it happens no matter how careful you are.
Try a Lock N Lube?
You have the same bushhog I have - and you have it modified to take a quick hitch. My question is did you fabricate the top assembly where the top link arm connects to the bush hog or did you buy it as a replacement?
Also the rear wheel is bent sideways - how hard is it to replace the rear wheel assembly?
It actually came that way. Click here to download a picture of what it looked like new, essentially the same as it is now: bushhog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/SQ420-SQ84T_Op_Manual.pdf. Here's a video on rear wheel replacement: ruclips.net/video/ybIev7GJWmk/видео.html.
Which Lube Shuttle grease are you running for the cutter? And how do you feel about using the 3PH to lift the cutter for checking blades, clearing obstructions, etc? (Obviously, either the tractor not running or the PTO disconnected when you're poking around). Maybe a couple 4x4s under the edge of the deck in case the 3PH decides to let go.
J.C., I use the basic G200 grease for everything. If I was greasing a combine of backhoe that got constant use I might go with a higher grade but for what I do, it's more than adequate. I agree on the three point idea, as long as you have enough protection that if someone moved the tractor lever or it leaked down, everything would stay suspended. That's probably how I'd do it.
i plan to use my 3pt and a high lift jack >>> i.pinimg.com/originals/1e/27/41/1e2741b95e463764ea95f6a01f39026b.png
@@TractorMike I've been using the MoS2 for the FEL, and the G200 for everything else. I ordered the two pistol grip guns with the safeLOCK grease coupler. I pretty much like the LS system, although I prefer the Lock'n'Lube coupler over the safeLOCK coupler, and may convert both guns to those. I also really like that the LNL guns have a zerk fitting built in to clip the coupler to for storage. LS needs to add that, but it's probably patented :(
Would adding loctite to the bolts prevent them from loosening?
yes but if its something you never want removed for all eternity use the red stuff, otherwise stick with the blue stuff. you'll thank me later.
Mike, I got a brand new PTO shaft for my tractor/mower, have only run maybe a few hours on it. When I try to grease the U-joint zerks on it, no grease goes into either one. Is it because its new and the joints are still full and should I just wait several more hours of run time and then retry? Confused on this.
Thanks for the videos and all you do here.
If the grease gun won't pump, the little ball inside must be frozen. Could be a little rust in there and it just needs to be broken free. If you're pumping and nothing is coming out the U-joints, keep pumping until it does. The manufacturer may have shipped it empty and you're having to fill the entire area.
@@TractorMike thanks. Yeah I tried all that, this a new PTO shaft. I also think the U-joints may have or may NOT have been filled at factory, no idea. Looks like the Zerk balls are freely moving, and the grease gun is good. ??????????
@@txtpqb I sometimes get that problem when there's plenty of grease in the area in question, and it's just that the little zerk ball isn't moving for whatever reason. So I take a fairly large safety pin with me when greasing the bush hog, and poke it into the zerk to loosen up the stuck zerk ball. Works like a charm.
Well I must have miss what the small level for. What is it for?
checking the level of the gear box before checking the 80-90w gear oil.
any need to sharpen the blade?
absolutely.
What about sharping your blades ?
I would think most people grease it and done.
Lube shuttle grease is way to expensive, I'll stick with my lock n lube, not nearly as messy as you make them sound.
Lefty loosy righty tighty