I have the same issue with my Clausing lathes. Both of them. I was planning on just re boring the hole and putting a oilite bushing in them. I guess it is easier to use the epoxy than to set up the apron on the mill and resize the hole.
The last one I did with a south bend was to bore and bush it out. I also put epoxy on the shaft. They were both wore fairly evenly. Main hand wheel crank was nice and solid after that. Pinion was still loose though, I didn't touch that one. Only reason I didn't put a new shaft on this one becuase I didn't have the proper reamer/drill bit to drill a new tapered hole for the retaining pin on the hand wheel.
@@precisionmachineshed I will do the same on mine. I hate slop in a precision machine. Even tho this is more of a nuisance slop it just does not belong there LOL Thanks for the reply.
Hi, I hope you can help me. I have a precision ground steering rack shaft out of our VW. It's maybe 24" long in total by 5/8" diameter. We are rebuilding it and one end of the shaft which slides back and forth through the central tube shaft seal (which is like a hard rubber / silicone) has some minor pitting / rust in a few spots all within ~ 3" where the rack boot was cracked. Unfortunately this rack rod is not a part I can replace so I either just clean it as best I can and leave it, or try and fill in the pitted spots with epoxy. The problem is we're talking a few thousandths deep if even that, and each spot is maybe 3-5mm wide (and there are 3 or 4 of them), or.. do I go to the extra trouble of getting something like this done where at least 10 thou is taken out down the whole 3", then epoxy filled, lathed, and re-sanded down to 2000 grit if the epoxy could even get that smooth which I doubt. Given this is a precision ground steel shaft which is like mirror chrome smooth and needs to seal up with the internal silicone ring seal I'm thinking this method will probably not work. Thoughts?
I got lucky with my 10L, those shafts and bores were fine. I added an oiler cup out towards the handwheel end to prevent it from wearing in the future. Can't remember if I used a 1/4-20 or a 10-32 one, but whatever the smallest one Gits makes is what mine has now. It comes in right over the felt slot to keep the wick oiled. Other option for replacing that assembly might be to make a new shaft. I don't remember if that gear presses on or if its cut from the same stock as the rest of the shaft for a one-piece setup but you could either press it out or cut the shaft and bore the gear out to fit a new shaft in there.
My main 10L that I restored a year or so ago I never put that extra oiler in the apron. Always said I would do it later. However I keep that thing clean and oiled and there is always oil ever so slowly seeping out between the apron and the hand wheel. At this point I don't see a need to put one in and that thing is tight as a drum! The gear and shaft are one piece. I could cut and bore it out then press it on, but this was much quicker. I'll buy a good used one when it comes along for $10 instead of spending several hours making a new one with my somewhat limited tooling at this time. Thanks for the comment!
There is a wick in there that feeds oil in. It gets caught in the gears sometimes and tears though. Mine was ripped, but I guess it didn't get used enough after that happened to cause damage. The oiler just makes it so you don't have to worry about the wick.
Yeah, I replaced all my wicks when I restored my lathe. When I was working on the unrestored lathe, I cut an old wick when test fitting parts. I can see how it's easy to do if you're not paying attention during assembly. I was very careful not to do this when I restored my other lathe.
I know some guys when they replace them tie them out of the way with small wires. I didn't on mine, but I did notice a few half cut wicks on this one when I pulled it apart.
If you need to fix it again, you might consider parting off all but about 1/2 in of the shaft from the gear, bore and thread the gear leaving a hub. then making a new shaft with a corresponding thread. and lock tight the two back together or pin it.. just a thought, keep up the good work.
I used to use that 2 part epoxy stuff (either JB Weld or Loctite) to repair the armature shafts for the Rupes sander/polishers as the fan would lose its grip on the section it was pressed onto & wear the armature shaft out. I forget what material it wore out on the shaft as that was over 15 years ago but the fan was plastic. My manager bought some in from home as he used it to repair the water pump in his washing machine, it spun on the shaft so he used the Loctite 2 part epoxy repair & it worked. I still use it at home with speedi sleeves to fill the grooves in made by the old oil seals. I'm looking to see how that would work on my lawn mowers stub axles for its wheels as the plastic bushings have worn grooves into them. They have 1/2 inch shafts on them & I was looking to fit the metal wheel bearings to them but the mower is old & I can't find dust covers for them,one of which is missing,I need them to keep the dust & dirt out of the bearings. They do make special 6001 2RS sealed bearings with a 1/2 inch bore in them & there are a 1616 2RS ball bearing available to suit but they are too expensive. The other option is to try & chase up some 12mm shaft stock,cut the 1/2 inch shafts off,weld the 12mm shafts on then fit the standard 6001 2RS bearings as they are cheaper & have a 12mm bore. The standard Supa Swift base has circlip grooves machined into them but since I don't have a lathe I'll have to use push clips if going that way.
Hello, yes it is still holding to very well. This was on a machine I sold and I was just over there the other day. The guy has it has used the lathe quite a bit to make numerous parts.
Not sure I would trust it. I've heard stories of repairing key ways on a crankshaft to get by till someone got home several hundred miles away. Not a long term deal though.
Yeah, this was much quicker though. The gear is part of the shaft so I would have had to cut it off and press fit it onto a new shaft which would not have been a big deal and I could still do it. I just really didn't want to have to deal with re-drilling that tapered hole for the taper pin and making everything line up perfectly.I don't think I have the proper gear cutter to cut a new gear on a new shaft ether.
Awesome video. We followed the procedure as you showed and the result was spectacular. Thank you!!! , You saved us a ton of hours and a lot of $Benjamin$ . Regards from Brazil :)
I thought about it and figured the time I would have into it wouldn't be worth it when you can get the occasional used one off ebay for $10. I also have been wanting to try this out for some time, figured this was as good a application as any.
It has actually held up better to date than the original. Still the same measurements as when I cut it. Unfortunately, it is harder than the cast housing it is in, so It needs replacing due to excess wear on the housing.
Kindly remove music, not allowed in islam Read Quran. ALLAH your creator is talking with you Follow Islam, because no salvation without Islam Chapter:2 Verse:21 O mankind, worship your Lord, who created you and those before you, that you may become righteous.
I used that same product to repair my lawnmower deck spindles. That was years ago and they are still good.
I've heard some crazy stories about products like this and JB weld holding together in strange applications.
Excellent repair!
Thanks
I have the same issue with my Clausing lathes. Both of them. I was planning on just re boring the hole and putting a oilite bushing in them. I guess it is easier to use the epoxy than to set up the apron on the mill and resize the hole.
The last one I did with a south bend was to bore and bush it out. I also put epoxy on the shaft. They were both wore fairly evenly. Main hand wheel crank was nice and solid after that. Pinion was still loose though, I didn't touch that one. Only reason I didn't put a new shaft on this one becuase I didn't have the proper reamer/drill bit to drill a new tapered hole for the retaining pin on the hand wheel.
@@precisionmachineshed I will do the same on mine. I hate slop in a precision machine. Even tho this is more of a nuisance slop it just does not belong there LOL Thanks for the reply.
The very best product for that application is made by Belzona of Florida. Expensive but it works.
Thanks, I'll have to check that stuff out. I don't plan to do this again, but I guess you never know.
@@precisionmachineshed There are different grades of Belzona and that is what I use now in these situations. Well worth the money!
Hi, I hope you can help me. I have a precision ground steering rack shaft out of our VW. It's maybe 24" long in total by 5/8" diameter. We are rebuilding it and one end of the shaft which slides back and forth through the central tube shaft seal (which is like a hard rubber / silicone) has some minor pitting / rust in a few spots all within ~ 3" where the rack boot was cracked. Unfortunately this rack rod is not a part I can replace so I either just clean it as best I can and leave it, or try and fill in the pitted spots with epoxy. The problem is we're talking a few thousandths deep if even that, and each spot is maybe 3-5mm wide (and there are 3 or 4 of them), or.. do I go to the extra trouble of getting something like this done where at least 10 thou is taken out down the whole 3", then epoxy filled, lathed, and re-sanded down to 2000 grit if the epoxy could even get that smooth which I doubt. Given this is a precision ground steel shaft which is like mirror chrome smooth and needs to seal up with the internal silicone ring seal I'm thinking this method will probably not work. Thoughts?
I got lucky with my 10L, those shafts and bores were fine. I added an oiler cup out towards the handwheel end to prevent it from wearing in the future. Can't remember if I used a 1/4-20 or a 10-32 one, but whatever the smallest one Gits makes is what mine has now. It comes in right over the felt slot to keep the wick oiled.
Other option for replacing that assembly might be to make a new shaft. I don't remember if that gear presses on or if its cut from the same stock as the rest of the shaft for a one-piece setup but you could either press it out or cut the shaft and bore the gear out to fit a new shaft in there.
My main 10L that I restored a year or so ago I never put that extra oiler in the apron. Always said I would do it later. However I keep that thing clean and oiled and there is always oil ever so slowly seeping out between the apron and the hand wheel. At this point I don't see a need to put one in and that thing is tight as a drum!
The gear and shaft are one piece. I could cut and bore it out then press it on, but this was much quicker. I'll buy a good used one when it comes along for $10 instead of spending several hours making a new one with my somewhat limited tooling at this time. Thanks for the comment!
There is a wick in there that feeds oil in. It gets caught in the gears sometimes and tears though. Mine was ripped, but I guess it didn't get used enough after that happened to cause damage. The oiler just makes it so you don't have to worry about the wick.
Yeah, I replaced all my wicks when I restored my lathe. When I was working on the unrestored lathe, I cut an old wick when test fitting parts. I can see how it's easy to do if you're not paying attention during assembly. I was very careful not to do this when I restored my other lathe.
I replaced all my wicks too, the original that I took out was torn. It was ragged and you could see where it had gotten caught in the teeth.
I know some guys when they replace them tie them out of the way with small wires. I didn't on mine, but I did notice a few half cut wicks on this one when I pulled it apart.
Good repair for areas of low pressure & revolution speed.
Thanks, Has been working great so far!
Nice job! Unfortunately, I didn't get a lathe from that school I was telling you about... oh well that's just the way the cookie crumbles!
Sounds good! Thanks
If you need to fix it again, you might consider parting off all but about 1/2 in of the shaft from the gear, bore and thread the gear leaving a hub. then making a new shaft with a corresponding thread. and lock tight the two back together or pin it.. just a thought, keep up the good work.
Thanks, that would work too. I'm going to throw it all back together today and see how it works. Should be fine. Thanks again.
I used to use that 2 part epoxy stuff (either JB Weld or Loctite) to repair the armature shafts for the Rupes sander/polishers as the fan would lose its grip on the section it was pressed onto & wear the armature shaft out.
I forget what material it wore out on the shaft as that was over 15 years ago but the fan was plastic.
My manager bought some in from home as he used it to repair the water pump in his washing machine, it spun on the shaft so he used the Loctite 2 part epoxy repair & it worked.
I still use it at home with speedi sleeves to fill the grooves in made by the old oil seals.
I'm looking to see how that would work on my lawn mowers stub axles for its wheels as the plastic bushings have worn grooves into them.
They have 1/2 inch shafts on them & I was looking to fit the metal wheel bearings to them but the mower is old & I can't find dust covers for them,one of which is missing,I need them to keep the dust & dirt out of the bearings.
They do make special 6001 2RS sealed bearings with a 1/2 inch bore in them & there are a 1616 2RS ball bearing available to suit but they are too expensive.
The other option is to try & chase up some 12mm shaft stock,cut the 1/2 inch shafts off,weld the 12mm shafts on then fit the standard 6001 2RS bearings as they are cheaper & have a 12mm bore.
The standard Supa Swift base has circlip grooves machined into them but since I don't have a lathe I'll have to use push clips if going that way.
Hey Spitfire! You have more ideas than anybody. Is it true that Southbend lathes that have flat cut gears make lots of noise?Keep up the good work!
IF they are in good shape, they aren't that noisy.
Hey, can you tell whether that surface is worn out already or it is still alright? Thanks.
Hello, yes it is still holding to very well. This was on a machine I sold and I was just over there the other day. The guy has it has used the lathe quite a bit to make numerous parts.
GREAT VIDEO !!!
Thanks, much appreciated!
is it googd for crack engine block
Not sure I would trust it. I've heard stories of repairing key ways on a crankshaft to get by till someone got home several hundred miles away. Not a long term deal though.
Maybe the best thing would just to make a new shaft, I'm sure you agree to that or..?
Yeah, this was much quicker though. The gear is part of the shaft so I would have had to cut it off and press fit it onto a new shaft which would not have been a big deal and I could still do it. I just really didn't want to have to deal with re-drilling that tapered hole for the taper pin and making everything line up perfectly.I don't think I have the proper gear cutter to cut a new gear on a new shaft ether.
why did you waste the devcon that much ?????
I was making sure I had enough. Looks like I had plenty.
Awesome video. We followed the procedure as you showed and the result was spectacular. Thank you!!! , You saved us a ton of hours and a lot of $Benjamin$ . Regards from Brazil :)
Great to hear!
Nothing wrong with that repair, I think I'd put another layer then test fit It witll wear in
It's working great so far.
Make a new shaft !
I thought about it and figured the time I would have into it wouldn't be worth it when you can get the occasional used one off ebay for $10. I also have been wanting to try this out for some time, figured this was as good a application as any.
brass bushing,just saying.
I thought about that. This was quicker and easier.
a fix but not great by any length
It has actually held up better to date than the original. Still the same measurements as when I cut it. Unfortunately, it is harder than the cast housing it is in, so It needs replacing due to excess wear on the housing.
Precision Machine Shed that's a shame
The music junked another video 👎👎👎👎💩💩💩😬
pp
Kindly remove music, not allowed in islam
Read Quran. ALLAH your creator is talking with you
Follow Islam, because no salvation without Islam
Chapter:2 Verse:21
O mankind, worship your Lord, who created you and those before you, that you may become righteous.
I think the Devcon repair will work just fine.
Thanks, I'm not too worried about it. I can still go another route if I later change my mind.