I did my PhD work and first years of graduate research at the Max-Planck Institute for Biological Cybernetics in Tübingen. I lived right next to the Walter-Tools work and had a friend who was an engineer in the turning-tools department. Their tooling is famous world-wide. Glad to see you using their carbide inserts.
@@insaneindamembrane7961 lol! I have a masters in chemistry and a PhD in rocket science and everytime I came home from my work at NASA I went past the restrooms, so could you tell me where yours are?
Thank you for the very interesting and informative video. It also makes me happy to see someone wearing safety glasses under their welding helmet. I learned the hard way.
@shocking development Newbie question here , what is the point ? second question, as i wear prescription classes, how could i stack them under the hood ?
@@nicolaspillot5789 I wear prescription glasses too. Prescription safety glasses are available, and so are styles that can be worn over normal glasses. Personally I usually just keep a new, unscratched pair of snug fitting safety glasses set aside for welding, and I can see well enough except for some TIG. The reason for glasses irrespective of welding process is to protect from arc flash and back reflections. The glasses with correct rating can be completely clear, but cut UV to almost zero. Depending on the welding process, it is also not uncommon to end up with stray sparks or spatter inside a helmet, so glasses protect from that. MMA, MIG/MAG and even TIG weld beads often eject slag and deposits as a weld cools. Keeping eyes covered is the way to go when checking out a weld. Lots of RUclips's welding with no gloves, white shortsleeve t-shirt and staring at their weld beads with no eye protection. I am mystified by this.
Outstanding work, as always, your weld build up was fantastic 👍👍👍 I’m a marine engineer and had to turn and machine few parts love to watch theses projects. Amazing work Adam
Absolutely enjoying these rebuild videos with weld buildup, spray weld buildup, using a turning table for clean weld buildup. Being able to see each setup that you do is pretty awesome. I just bought some new tooling so I can do consistent block manufacturing. Bought a new clamp and some fixture plates. I can't wait to use them. Thanks for all the great content.
How many of us subs of Adam enjoy watching the set up more than the actual repair? The fun part of the fix is the work but the set up for me is my favorite part of the vids. It’s a puzzle you have to work though before you can start moving metal. I have a tremendous appreciation for this trade and what it takes to be a journeyman.
@11:12 Adam, if you're having issues with your safety glasses fogging up, clean the lenses with some regular ole Shaving Cream/Foam. Just rub it all over the lenses until they're coated, then wipe it all off with a Dry cloth and the lenses won't fog up on you. It works great, my Grandfather showed me this trick like 30 years ago and I've using it on all my glasses, bathroom mirrors and the interior of my car windows ever since. Alternatively you can also use Liquid Dish Soap without water and it will do the same thing, it's just a little more fiddly to get a streak free finish. Give it a try I guarantee you won't be disappointed! 👍👍
Those Walter Tigertec are pretty good inserts. I also like Iscar and Sandvik for turning as well. For basic roughing or medium turning, Mitsubishi and Sumitomo are very cost effective options for a manual machine too. Just passing it along 😊
I have to say the film work (while it had always been great) is even better. The closeups (as in the clutch shaft pt 2) were super explicit. Abbey does some great work and zooms in with her Carhart green welly boots (steel toe, no doubt). Thanks, guys! Adam, you have come a long way since I started following you waaaaaaaaaay back in the days of Motion quick clips. I'm happy for your success. I'm even more pleased you two found each other. Have a great year.
ULINE REHAWK S-14171C we did a test at our company of over 100 different safety glasses and these allow enough airflow to not fog when you are bending over working, out of 100 guys close to 80 picked these great work my dude
When I did my training all those years ago, we had machines that were 'inch' which came from England or the USA. Then we had Japanese and European stuff that was metric, so I understand both. BUT (never start a sentence with but!) metric is so easy and just as accurate.
@@Wolfy_80 Anyone who says either metric or imperial systems are more accurate is a fool who doesn’t understand accuracy. Accuracy doesn’t care which system you use.
Great repair Adam. One thing that has helped me after 30 years of welding is getting a PAPR welding hood. While expensive, it keeps me from breathing welding fumes and keeps me glasses fog free. A word to the wise, stay away from good Mexican food the day before.
Or bad Mexican refried beans within 24 hours before. XD Does a fan help as a much less expensive option if the hood is not feasible? Or does that present complications?
@@johnbonner922 depends how strong or close the fan is, if you are using gases they can be blown away. But I use a fan sometimes especially when welding inside a truck just to blow out the fumes and keep the air moving.
good repair, i do a lot of weld build up repairs at work on big Liebherr 996 hydraulic pistons (internal rod to piston seals), good practice to pre-machine the area to be repaired under the finished size 1.0 mm to 1.5 mm per side so your under the fusion zone and clean any embedded dirt and grime off the surface so it doesn't become a inclusion or bubble in the weld. that would help a lot with the surface finish. also for the new shop, digital micrometers are really nice and can switch between inch and metric. the Insize brand are fairly good but quantum mics from Mitutoyo are stunning. you get what you pay for though.
Another high quality Abom79 repair 👍😊 I for one absolutely love your channel and videos Adam 👍👍and To all the “ armchair know it all machinists” I pose a question to you , did you see any “ bluing “ or color changes on the shaft anywhere other then where Adam welded it ? No you didn’t , so the rest of the shaft will be just fine . Clearly the man knows WTH he’s doing as he has years and years of experience and oh , not to mention he is a third Gen machinist , so there SMH 🤦🏻♂️
This is bad ass, what a great way to fix a clapped out old shaft. I like the spray weld build up but to my mind this has to be a stronger way to build up.
He has to cut a key way so weld build was necessary. The opposite end takes a bearing and can be spray welded. All it has to do is fit the inner bearing race.
I use a bore welder and the welding machine settings are quite different to allow upside down welding, a major benefit is reduced heat. Low volts. Drip transfer welding. Needs to be laid over a machined surface.
11:12 I really like my 3M Adflo respirator with Speedglas helmet to prevent my glasses from fogging up. It also keeps me from inhaling all sorts of nasty things, as I seem to spend more time grinding than welding. The joys of being a rookie, I guess.
I was wondering if you were to have turned the shaft down some before welding it up, if that would have given you a thicker final finish. Since the new weld is merely a few thousands, is that okay and work good... IDK
That's true but unlike a spray weld I don't think a mig weld is ever going to peel off since you have much more penetration and especially fusion because the base metal his heated and mixed a lot more. So while he didn't remove anything, because a weld bead is so much more energy dense, I think it should be perfectly fine as is.
Mig bites in enough that it ain't coming off.. the advantage of turning it down first is that all the metal is the same hardness so tool pressure remains the same and it eliminates thicker spots where the material is harder.. it didn't look like it was a problem with this repair but it's a problem I've run into before
Great video thanks for going over your tooling and the inserts it's a HUGE help!! Bc I have a hard time trying to find inserts and know what's what with all the different codes and every brand has a different code set up. Just confuses the sh*t out of me, so thanks again adam!! Like I said love these videos when you extra informative on everything. Good job!!
As it is possible to do so, I would turn down the diameter of the damaged portion by about .020'' on the diameter prior to welding. As after dimensioning, your (weld) root does not get anywhere near the surface as if you do a straight weld up. Hence, I will assume to achieve superior bonding and metal integrity.
I see alot of comments about welding affecting the hardness of the shaft and worrying about it breaking. Personal opinion here its not an airplane part its for an old lathe. Im pretty sure the repair will probably last longer than the guy that owns it.
Adam I always love watching your videos but I'm going to put my cheap two cents in here. I worked on six different monarchs double e up to 28 in by 12 ft lathe. Anytime I had a repair like that and a certain length of shaft, I would chuck it either in the three or four jaw, Chucked on the tail opposite end of that shaft and then put it in steady rest on that what looks like a bearing journal the area that you did not weld. Then Center the shaft because you could have cross actual condition going on when you chucked it short like that. That's very important. I'm always worried about something like that. I hope it comes out good but I would have done it the way I mentioned. Have a great one!
@@nils1953 dose not need to be a nice new digital mitutoyo, even tho those are amazing and can also be set to imperial ore metric but when working on stuff in metric its best to measure in metric as well. I am from the metric world anyways :)
Just a thought, if your MiG welder was connected to a lead screw 4-5 TPI and then connected to the chuck with a belt, you would be able to vary the feed rate of the weld by varying the speed of the welding fixture in the video. Maybe bit much maybe? maybe not? Great video❗👍
Great job! Could you add a few details about the welding process you used? Dual shield or solid wire? I would have been concerned it would warp with the heat.
Pardon my ignorance, Ladies and Gents: Would machining the welded build up be possible/advisable using a HSS tool? (Or would the welded build-up pose issues with the cutting tool) Cheers!
After numerous "experts" here have stated the "power" of the famous Colchester lathes, I predict the shaft will fracture into hundreds if not thousands of fragments.
Great job but one concern. Lot of heat gone into that shaft after that weld up and no stress relief using a torch with heat applied going beyond that bearing shoulder and allowed to cool off before turning. If that shaft is under load there is risk it could shear off. We don't know the material so there's no way of evaluating the risk. It may well be perfectly fine!
As much heat gets past the shoulder, I do not think this shaft will develop any crack potential As the shaft cools, the heat witch is more intense at the end actually transfers back toward the shoulder in a very gradual state.
Adam chucks within 6 inches of the end of the shaft with the 6 jaw. The runout at the chuck is half thou; after turning, the welded part end will be the same. But he does not know what the run out is at the other end of the shaft inside the headstock. Will he be doing a test to show that the shaft centreline remains true?
I'm not a machinist, but I find this fascinating and impressive.
I sure do
I did my PhD work and first years of graduate research at the Max-Planck Institute for Biological Cybernetics in Tübingen. I lived right next to the Walter-Tools work and had a friend who was an engineer in the turning-tools department. Their tooling is famous world-wide. Glad to see you using their carbide inserts.
You want a prize? Recognition? Why post your resume on a comment?
@@insaneindamembrane7961 lol! I have a masters in chemistry and a PhD in rocket science and everytime I came home from my work at NASA I went past the restrooms, so could you tell me where yours are?
@@nils1953 PhD in rocket science😂😂😂😂😂😂😂. Good one
I did my PhD work at the tavern. Majored in alcoholic beverages. Tops in me class.
Can confirm as a UK guy, i appreciate the metric Adam! Great work as always. Cheers.
A great pro machinist , a great teacher and very well explanations 👌I can watch this guy doin its thing all day and never get tired 👍👌
A real machinist as you handle all , imperial or metric.
the imperial guys need to be able to handle metric as well more often then the metric guys need to handle imperial :)
I'm really impressed with the finish on that for tuning on MIG weld build up. It show just how solid your welds really are!
Thank you for the very interesting and informative video. It also makes me happy to see someone wearing safety glasses under their welding helmet. I learned the hard way.
@shocking development Newbie question here , what is the point ? second question, as i wear prescription classes, how could i stack them under the hood ?
@@nicolaspillot5789 I wear prescription glasses too. Prescription safety glasses are available, and so are styles that can be worn over normal glasses. Personally I usually just keep a new, unscratched pair of snug fitting safety glasses set aside for welding, and I can see well enough except for some TIG.
The reason for glasses irrespective of welding process is to protect from arc flash and back reflections. The glasses with correct rating can be completely clear, but cut UV to almost zero. Depending on the welding process, it is also not uncommon to end up with stray sparks or spatter inside a helmet, so glasses protect from that. MMA, MIG/MAG and even TIG weld beads often eject slag and deposits as a weld cools. Keeping eyes covered is the way to go when checking out a weld.
Lots of RUclips's welding with no gloves, white shortsleeve t-shirt and staring at their weld beads with no eye protection. I am mystified by this.
Outstanding work, as always, your weld build up was fantastic 👍👍👍 I’m a marine engineer and had to turn and machine few parts love to watch theses projects. Amazing work Adam
Abby - thank you for the filter on the welding. Much appreciated
I LOVE Walter tooling. Amazing as they heat up they get even tougher! Definitely run without coolant.
Absolutely enjoying these rebuild videos with weld buildup, spray weld buildup, using a turning table for clean weld buildup. Being able to see each setup that you do is pretty awesome. I just bought some new tooling so I can do consistent block manufacturing. Bought a new clamp and some fixture plates. I can't wait to use them. Thanks for all the great content.
How many of us subs of Adam enjoy watching the set up more than the actual repair? The fun part of the fix is the work but the set up for me is my favorite part of the vids. It’s a puzzle you have to work though before you can start moving metal. I have a tremendous appreciation for this trade and what it takes to be a journeyman.
@11:12 Adam, if you're having issues with your safety glasses fogging up, clean the lenses with some regular ole Shaving Cream/Foam. Just rub it all over the lenses until they're coated, then wipe it all off with a Dry cloth and the lenses won't fog up on you.
It works great, my Grandfather showed me this trick like 30 years ago and I've using it on all my glasses, bathroom mirrors and the interior of my car windows ever since. Alternatively you can also use Liquid Dish Soap without water and it will do the same thing, it's just a little more fiddly to get a streak free finish. Give it a try I guarantee you won't be disappointed! 👍👍
Thanks for the tip, I’ll give that a try 👍🏻
Love the camera work on this one... You're trying some new things and they're working well... Thank you !!!!!
You always make everything you do look so easy. The sign of a true professional. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you Adam I been waiting for you to do an episode with Matric work I am watching your wonderful videos from South Africa
Sure is satisfying to see the freshly welded shaft turned down the second time to all shiny metal.
Awesome job Adam , Proves you don't need to make new parts every time .. That's what job machine shops are for .. SO ENJOYED !!
Those Walter Tigertec are pretty good inserts. I also like Iscar and Sandvik for turning as well. For basic roughing or medium turning, Mitsubishi and Sumitomo are very cost effective options for a manual machine too. Just passing it along 😊
I have to say the film work (while it had always been great) is even better. The closeups (as in the clutch shaft pt 2) were super explicit. Abbey does some great work and zooms in with her Carhart green welly boots (steel toe, no doubt). Thanks, guys! Adam, you have come a long way since I started following you waaaaaaaaaay back in the days of Motion quick clips. I'm happy for your success. I'm even more pleased you two found each other. Have a great year.
ULINE REHAWK S-14171C we did a test at our company of over 100 different safety glasses and these allow enough airflow to not fog when you are bending over working, out of 100 guys close to 80 picked these great work my dude
When I did my training all those years ago, we had machines that were 'inch' which came from England or the USA. Then we had Japanese and European stuff that was metric, so I understand both. BUT (never start a sentence with but!) metric is so easy and just as accurate.
I also understand both, but I prefer imperial.
oh dont go down that road again ;) The metric guys (like me) always gonna sy metric is more accurate and the same other way around :)
@@Wolfy_80 Who mentioned accurate?
@@Wolfy_80 Anyone who says either metric or imperial systems are more accurate is a fool who doesn’t understand accuracy. Accuracy doesn’t care which system you use.
@@grntitan1 ...YOU SUMMED IT UP PERFECTLY-!!!
Amazing how the welding lays down a very fine consistent thickness of material. The machine work looks like it is working on a new billet. Nice work!
Great repair Adam. One thing that has helped me after 30 years of welding is getting a PAPR welding hood. While expensive, it keeps me from breathing welding fumes and keeps me glasses fog free. A word to the wise, stay away from good Mexican food the day before.
$2000 for a product he'll use for an hour a month. Not viable.
Or bad Mexican refried beans within 24 hours before. XD
Does a fan help as a much less expensive option if the hood is not feasible? Or does that present complications?
@@johnbonner922 depends how strong or close the fan is, if you are using gases they can be blown away. But I use a fan sometimes especially when welding inside a truck just to blow out the fumes and keep the air moving.
Just mesmerizing. An amazing quality of professionalism and skill. Thanks.
Thanks Adam you are the man with the big smile 😁 From an old Navy flying Shoe🇺🇸
love to watch you turning welded up parts. I have not had too much success as I am not that good of a welder. keep up the great videos.
good repair, i do a lot of weld build up repairs at work on big Liebherr 996 hydraulic pistons (internal rod to piston seals), good practice to pre-machine the area to be repaired under the finished size 1.0 mm to 1.5 mm per side so your under the fusion zone and clean any embedded dirt and grime off the surface so it doesn't become a inclusion or bubble in the weld. that would help a lot with the surface finish.
also for the new shop, digital micrometers are really nice and can switch between inch and metric. the Insize brand are fairly good but quantum mics from Mitutoyo are stunning. you get what you pay for though.
Adam i have been watching you a while, im not a machinist but love your natural talent
Another high quality Abom79 repair 👍😊 I for one absolutely love your channel and videos Adam 👍👍and To all the “ armchair know it all machinists” I pose a question to you , did you see any “ bluing “ or color changes on the shaft anywhere other then where Adam welded it ? No you didn’t , so the rest of the shaft will be just fine . Clearly the man knows WTH he’s doing as he has years and years of experience and oh , not to mention he is a third Gen machinist , so there SMH 🤦🏻♂️
This is bad ass, what a great way to fix a clapped out old shaft. I like the spray weld build up but to my mind this has to be a stronger way to build up.
He has to cut a key way so weld build was necessary. The opposite end takes a bearing and can be spray welded. All it has to do is fit the inner bearing race.
So far so good ! I like to centre pop the end of built up shafts so i know where the keyway was . 👍
amazing, love your attention to detail. Can't wait for part 2!
Looks good Adam, looking forward to the rest of the story. Thanks for sharing. Fred.
As ever, another great and nice job, Adam. I just can't wait to see part 2!.
Love to see something get repaired.
Beautiful bead, Adam! And I really like that adjustable bar you use to steady your hand - first I've seen one of those.
Amazing, you have so much skill at this stuff, really well done.
Brother is a master above masters.
18:50 Looking GOOD already!! . nice welding Adam!! :)
Another great job Adam. Thanks for sharing.
These are the best types of video's.
Your apostrophe license is hereby revoked.
Very cool video. Turning the built up weld is always a little tough.
I use a bore welder and the welding machine settings are quite different to allow upside down welding, a major benefit is reduced heat. Low volts. Drip transfer welding. Needs to be laid over a machined surface.
Adam, I'm watching on a mac high res. screen - your video quality here is absolutely amazing.
Curious... Why does it matter what brand you're using?
@@littlejackalo5326 why does it matter to you what matters to them?
@@littlejackalo5326 obviously its because apple products are a status symbol and vastly superior
Intresting content, and I liked the close up photos at the end.
11:12 I really like my 3M Adflo respirator with Speedglas helmet to prevent my glasses from fogging up. It also keeps me from inhaling all sorts of nasty things, as I seem to spend more time grinding than welding. The joys of being a rookie, I guess.
I was wondering if you were to have turned the shaft down some before welding it up, if that would have given you a thicker final finish. Since the new weld is merely a few thousands, is that okay and work good... IDK
That's true but unlike a spray weld I don't think a mig weld is ever going to peel off since you have much more penetration and especially fusion because the base metal his heated and mixed a lot more.
So while he didn't remove anything, because a weld bead is so much more energy dense, I think it should be perfectly fine as is.
Mig bites in enough that it ain't coming off.. the advantage of turning it down first is that all the metal is the same hardness so tool pressure remains the same and it eliminates thicker spots where the material is harder.. it didn't look like it was a problem with this repair but it's a problem I've run into before
I put a 'cheater' lens in my helmet many years ago. Works for me, I'm sure others have stated the same.
Converting 35mm to inches looks like FUN.
35 / 25.4 = 1.37795'' it's really not that hard.
the more videos i watch from you, the more i wanna break something and have you fix it lol,. great job as always
Great video thanks for going over your tooling and the inserts it's a HUGE help!! Bc I have a hard time trying to find inserts and know what's what with all the different codes and every brand has a different code set up. Just confuses the sh*t out of me, so thanks again adam!! Like I said love these videos when you extra informative on everything. Good job!!
Start by welding from the end so you have built up heat when you get inside the end of the groove
With building up material like that, what about the hardness and steel type of the material? Isn't that an issue?
Great video! Looking forward to part two.
As it is possible to do so, I would turn down the diameter of the damaged portion by about .020'' on the diameter prior to welding.
As after dimensioning, your (weld) root does not get anywhere near the surface as if you do a straight weld up.
Hence, I will assume to achieve superior bonding and metal integrity.
Perfect as always wish I had your kind around my area!
Nice work Adam Well done.
Verry well done, Adam!
Curious what all the welding heat does to the properties of the shaft.
man that turned up really good
Nice to see a weld build up.
Another great looking job Adam! God bless buddy!🙏🎚🇲🇾🇲🇾🇲🇾
I'm impressed that Adam has a Malaysian following. Very cool!
Beautiful work and very interesting to see. Question, who makes the hand rest you use? Would you recommend it?
Where i work we have had very good luck with the wkk25s quality for walter tooling.
I see alot of comments about welding affecting the hardness of the shaft and worrying about it breaking. Personal opinion here its not an airplane part its for an old lathe. Im pretty sure the repair will probably last longer than the guy that owns it.
High class machinist.
Adam I always love watching your videos but I'm going to put my cheap two cents in here. I worked on six different monarchs double e up to 28 in by 12 ft lathe. Anytime I had a repair like that and a certain length of shaft, I would chuck it either in the three or four jaw, Chucked on the tail opposite end of that shaft and then put it in steady rest on that what looks like a bearing journal the area that you did not weld. Then Center the shaft because you could have cross actual condition going on when you chucked it short like that. That's very important. I'm always worried about something like that. I hope it comes out good but I would have done it the way I mentioned. Have a great one!
Yes, good observation...I'd do it that way too.
Cool! Lathe work to make a lathe work.
As a long-time 3d printing enthusiast, it's nice to watch you working in *proper* measurements for once 😂
Now that's funny!
Awesome work again and great learning
Great job, thank you brother. You are so talented
Thank you Adam!
nice repair and a fun video. thanks for sharing.
daar zijn we blij mee metrich !😂😂😂😂😁😁😊😊😊😊
...WELL, YOU CAN HAVE IT-!!!
lovely bit of work man!
Walter carbide plates and tool are great at my Shop we are using quite a few different parts from them mostly smaller finishing plates for ID and OD
and one more thing, just go get some metric measuring tolls, makes life much easier
@@kaeptenxy3569 don't remember seeing a single brand new measuring tool in his shop except his calipers.
@@nils1953 dose not need to be a nice new digital mitutoyo, even tho those are amazing and can also be set to imperial ore metric but when working on stuff in metric its best to measure in metric as well.
I am from the metric world anyways :)
Looks Good to me Adam, I'm sure your subscriber will be very happy with it. 👍.
It's like watching a slow motion miracle.
hoping you get to use the Starrett feeller gauges...cheers from Orlando, Paul
Olá amigo Adam!!!
Acompanhando seus trabalhos que pra mim são aulas de como se fazer um bom trabalho!!!
Abraço daqui do Brasil a todos aí!
Just a thought, if your MiG welder was connected to a lead screw 4-5 TPI and then connected to the chuck with a belt, you would be able to vary the feed rate of the weld by varying the speed of the welding fixture in the video. Maybe bit much maybe? maybe not? Great video❗👍
Okay. I need help with this. How do you calculate rotation speed with diameter and correctly adjusting WFS and voltage?
Pleas make a Video from testcuts whith the inserts!
Very nice work
So the bright band at 20:50 was caused by the use of a different kind of welding rod?
Great job! Could you add a few details about the welding process you used? Dual shield or solid wire? I would have been concerned it would warp with the heat.
Dumb question b/c I don't know: Is the original shaft hardened? Does it matter if the buildup is hardened or not?
Great job as always.
Is there a reason to not use a way cover when sanding or polishing?
Pardon my ignorance, Ladies and Gents: Would machining the welded build up be possible/advisable using a HSS tool? (Or would the welded build-up pose issues with the cutting tool)
Cheers!
Try it, and let us know?
does welding on it hurt the hardness of the shaft?
You explained in great detail...
What type of electrode?
I wonder what all that heat and the shrinkage from the extended weld did to the rest of the shaft?
After numerous "experts" here have stated the "power" of the famous Colchester lathes, I predict the shaft will fracture into hundreds if not thousands of fragments.
Great job but one concern. Lot of heat gone into that shaft after that weld up and no stress relief using a torch with heat applied going beyond that bearing shoulder and allowed to cool off before turning. If that shaft is under load there is risk it could shear off. We don't know the material so there's no way of evaluating the risk. It may well be perfectly fine!
As much heat gets past the shoulder, I do not think this shaft will develop any crack potential
As the shaft cools, the heat witch is more intense at the end actually transfers back toward the shoulder in a very gradual state.
With the amount of power that will be going through that shaft, I very much doubt it'll break
...I'm pretty sure that the chuck on the positioner was an effective heat sink-!!!
Adam chucks within 6 inches of the end of the shaft with the 6 jaw. The runout at the chuck is half thou; after turning, the welded part end will be the same. But he does not know what the run out is at the other end of the shaft inside the headstock. Will he be doing a test to show that the shaft centreline remains true?
Adam, I have an old Starrett height gauge and a couple of Kant-twist clams I would like to send to you. How do I do that please?
awesome work
good job adam
Which type of welding wires or rods are good for shaft rebuilding?
I'd like to know that too.
It depends if it needs to be heat treated or not, for something like this er70 is fine but if it needs heat treating then something like er80d2