"Making it better than it was yesterday" is indeed a very, VERY powerful proverb. If enough people applied it to enough parts of their lives every day, the world would be a much better and much happier place :) Keep up the good work, hope the JB holds up!
I'd buy both of those on a t-shirt! Love the channel, I'm still working on my "Level 1 Men in sheds" qualification but the trouble is that employment keeps getting in the way. I'll keep buying those lottery tickets too 😅 Keep up the good work 👍
Very innovative idea 💡 using the JB Weld with the Iron. The lathe bed looks great. I am hoping it holds up well for you. Thanks for sharing the process. 👍
Without a doubt, you are the bravest and most patient machinist on RUclips. And did I mention your creativity, resourcefulness and great sense of humor? Thanks for sharing all of it. Cheers, F.C.
You've inspired me to fix my SB 9 bed wear and the JB iron mix is quite the innovation. Time to step it up a bit and mix up a little thermite ...what could go wrong.
I like your aproach, and this remembers me of an product that i used sometime ago.. i was making a two cilinder pomez stone grinding machine, to reduce the factory supply of 10/15mm size of pomez to 2/8mm in batchs filtered.. well.. to avoid using a lot of money and steel, i maked a cilinder of sand plus epoxi for weight and general stiffnes, then outside aplied a couple of coats of epoxi and thin fiberglass fabric to avoid the sand exposi mixture breaks apart under presure of grinding the stones.. then in the surface i tried first a coat of an surface epoxi resin that contains 50% of iron dust, that works well grinding the stones, but sometimes, a couple of hard rocks gets in the mixture of pomez from factory, so finally that hard rocks makes little craters in the surface epoxi, then I scrapped all the surface epoxi and replaced with another surface epoxi resin with silicon carbide dust... that was an absolute beast... years later used a little that last for making a garden tool and trying to make holes with a drill of 1,5mm let me crushing 3 drill bits into shape of needles with just a couple of drills into that thing hardened.. something like that should actually last longer and maybe compete with the iron bed? maybe its a thing about the resin that held that particles in place than the carbide in itself..or iron in your case..
Greetings, your video is a godsend! This past Christmas Eve (2023), I took possession of what wound up being, under all the flaking paint and rust, a 1942 South Bend 10R "Heavy", with 1" bore spindle (1-7/8"x8 thread nose), no tooling, no toolpost, no compound, no plates, no centers! Scratched spindle and bearings from years of no lube and much dirt, and front vee way worn down 0.040-0.050". Huge ridge at the top. Slight ridge on the rear vee, almost none on the tailstock vee. YOUR VIDEO GIVES ME HOPE Even as bad as mine is, it had to have been used for something to get as worn as it is. I certainly can't make it any worse, so I'm going to give your method a try (tell the truth, I actually considered it, but thought better of asking anyone what they thought of the idea, they'd think me loony!). I'll probably also have to give some consideration to the wear to the inside vee of the saddle, not sure how to handle that, but I'll sort it somehow. THANK YOU SO MUCH! Off to buy a case of JB Weld and a tub of iron powder!
well if you think about it, he cant make it worst than it is, not much to loose less some time and epoxy. may be painful to strip it off if it fails, but the bed underneath will still be the same.... can do a second attempt if it has to.
Hi, I did’t need courage because the lathe will still do what I want it to do and I still have my little lathe. To me, courage is doing what I’d originally thought of doing and that was to mill off the bad bits and bolt on new cast sections and scrape them in…. but that is for some one else to do. cheers
Great video and nice to find another Sout Bend 13 owner in the UK👍Mine dates to 1943 and is ex US military. I bought it locally in East Anglia last November and currently have it completely stripped, cleaned and painted apart from the bed which is 7 feet long. I forsee many challenges putting it back together as I neglected to take photos😕 One issue I have found is the shipping cost for anything from the States, I need a set of oiling felts but it works out at around £80😱I am hoping that lamp wicks will work 🤞
You did well adding the iron filings as it will add strength to the j b weld and cause an equal wear rate of equally dispersed slide action travels and will lap in ways sufficiently on it's own. Well done asual.
I may have to do the same with a lathe i am about to refurb, i have been recommended a 2 pack epoxy called Belzona , which i think uses steel powder as a filler. Brilliant video and a very brave and effective repair! Phil
Hats off to you ,that is a very ingenious repairs although I have seen this product (minus the cast iron dust ) used before to good effect I would never have thought of this solution.looking forward to the refit.Thank you.
Great series, and it is always nice to see how someone else approached the problem. A lot of work, but you kept it simple stick to the plan and hopefully are pleased with the results. Enjoyed quite a lot, thanks and cheers!
That JB weld is amazing stuff, I used it to repair all sorts of stuff in the past with great effect. Would never thought of using it on the lathe bed ways. I'm sure it'll hold up as long as it's lubricated properly. Thanks for sharing Paul.
That was very good Paul. Ingenious. I don't know about JB Weld but I have used Devcon putty before, it is made to various UK and US military specs. It can be drilled, tapped and machined when cured. So I think your repair will do very well. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Carl. I too think I once used Devcon If memory serves me right its a putty in two equal parts, one red and one cream, work the two together to the shape of a hammer and it is a fully functional tool. cheers
Forgot to ask, from where did you get the big piece you used as your straight edge for marking the sides of the vees? Looks like a great big piece of CRS, but I can't tell. Also, how did you hold it in the proper orientation for marking? Many thanks for any info you can provide.
Just purchased a SB model A. 9” x 3 1/2. Bed ways are severely damaged. Was wondering how to repair without spending too much money. Thank you for the idea
In regard to mixing cast iron or Moly to JBWeld, heat it up with a heat gun or hair dryer and it gets extremely soupy. It works great! I did this when repairing a variable speed reeves drive which slides in a delrin sleeve. Its way more slippery than JB weld by itself and its stronger too. Less scratch resistant.
G’day mate, I’ve got a lathe with a similar issue, and it’s value is low enough to run with a sketchy repair. Just wondering how your epoxy repair is holding up after some use?
Hi. I’ve not done any more than, maybe, 50 hours work since the repair. What I can tell you is that in the initial stages there was a bit of residual blackness where slide oil washed away any dirt. The slides have traces of scrape marks as you would expect, but now they appear to have stabilised better than I expected. They won’t last forever but they are doing what I expected probably better. Regards.
How is the iron infused resin holding up? I'm very new to precision, and it seems to be a pretty flexible way to fix parts. I have some some crazy ideas of using something like this on top of carbon fiber plates to hone in some very makeshift and lightweight surface plates.
Hi, the resin is still holding out quite well. however, it did get very messy when I first used it, the oil and some of the resin produced some pretty black grease at first, I suspect that the cast iron dust that I mixed into the resin has now stabilised the resin and although I suspect that the resin won't last as long as the iron Bed-way It should prolong the life of this lathe for a few years more. regards.
I wonder what would happen if you used plastic wrap, like the stuff you cover food with, between them, if it would just peel off easily, or even if you just had to slide on them a couple times to get the plastic wrap to disappear? I used Pam cooking spray when I was making resin miniatures, so maybe it would work better? Looks like it worked out anyway for you regardless. Thanks for the vids man!!
Hi, sorry i didn't reply, I missed your comment. Thank you but I believe the quantity minimum is one litre, can't imagine why I would want one litre. Cheers
Well ! You done me with that one 😊 Would never of thought to use liquid metal. But,,,, I used to use loads of it years ago, Belzona I think it was called and it was really good stuff. Nicely done matey 😁😁😁
Hi, I aim to please. My other idea was to mil out the bad section using my mill bolted to one side, then make a replacement piece and use bolts and pins to retain it. that would have dropped a few gobs, ehh. cheers
@@Thesheddweller hey Paul ! That would have had the purists kicking in you workshop door. I have to be honest though, that idea is very plausible if you use full length rails. Mmm 🤔🤔🤔
Hello Paul, A super interesting video, thank you... did you purchase the cast iron dust (if so where from). You may have mentioned and I missed it, but how long did you leave the JB Weld before starting to scrape it? See you on the next one. Take care. Paul,,
Hi Paul, the iron dust I got from a company in Northern Ireland (MB Fibreglass) 1kg at £7 double that for p&p, and then some for import duties. I left the mixture to harden for 48 hours at approximately 18º C. I hope this helps. Cheers
Greetings oh Shed creature as UK origin. It so happened I traded about a full day and a half labor, where in deference to cash payment I took possession of a South Bend 9 of 4 foot bed length. Serial number as 62016. At removal from a type of scrapyard, I lifted the unit and placed it to a block wall as attached to a thick pine plank, so as to fully access all components. I soaked the entire unit in light oil for as 48 hours. Hence to partial dis assembly and cleaning. That process as to remove rust and any build up. The cleaning advanced to particular care as bed way. A powerful thinner, the chief regard with plastic and cloth impliments. As summer progressed, I constructed block risers, via mortar to the shop concrete floor and leveled the top surfaces with mason level. Hence, moved the cleaned unit as re assembled to that surface mounting, again with dense pine planking to achieve a span with a slight degree as vibration resistance and where slight variation can be modified by shims. With a drive worked out, I constructed a tool holder, continuing to both inspection and lubrication. As I looked up the serial number, I have the viewpoint this unit was delivered as winter 1935 to Spring? 1936. To arrive at the belief this lathe has an age as 88 years. And, where with current light non ferros, dense plastics, aluminum it indeed has fair precision to work piece. At present, I simply use a simple back plate with component fastener clamping. I observe the same difficult wear instance as your post cited. And, where I happily now plan to try your method, understanding the potential for improvement. And where, I in fact now process jobs as to more fully equip the unit as tool function. Some as a soft blow mallet, a design as a 8 inch chuck with "fingers" as to hold work. I found a broken craftsman lathe bed and designed a sliding table as accessory to execute dial measurement with no interference to the central components. Save it must be removed for the full bedway length job functionality. As things stand, I now manage a range of task, having secured some excellent tool and various smaller collet, and where with a small budget I can execute most linear cutting needs. Continuing to add end gear multiples as to address change gear and where the unit will seize advantage as so positioned to share compressed air motor space to lathe drive, saving space and protected from incidental entanglement. The care and design...robust components I find more fun that lesser Chinese design. I plan to study features as digital readouts, design as a mill attachment and happily add to various stock in metals and tube. What I recommend to the interested hobby machinist, tradesman is the South bend manuals. Which, were well thought out as both a sales and support. Detailed in measurements and attachments. Some, a bit unusual and curious. With this background, for the enthusiast, I recommend Sam at Swan Valley Machine shop (Channel) AU. And, where I quite thank you for the effort to share the repair method, scraping domain to improved precision. As that goal set is effortless to the craftsman....journeyman to the range of metal production to task. It so happens this is the holiday season with snow, and I bid you fair holiday winds. As from half a world away. M.
Interesting video! I have used JB Weld steel filled epoxy quite a bit and while it is tough, it is not hard, certainly not as hard as even soft aluminum. I will be interested to see how it wears. In Europe they seem to talk about Moglice strips instead of Turcite.
Hi, I am beyond words to express your talent, insight and dedication to this restoration. But there are certain things I would like to add. JB weld is just another epoxy glue and added metals in jb weld and iron powder might have some added rigidity but in the end it is a glue. Also jb weld is too soft & do not make a good bearing surface unlike moglice, or turcite or belzona. I think the best way to approch this was to use a hard facing rod or stick weld with a silicon bronze rod. You can machine jb weld but in the end the bed will be very soft. If you use it extensively it will show accelerated wear. If used sparingly i guess this is a good fix for a worn out lathe bed.
Hi Roy, I don't think I shall be using it that much however, I very much appreciate your input I like the stick welding idea with silicone bronze rod. can you tell me where I can get I more info on this welding system? much appreciated. regards
@@Thesheddweller since a lot of time and energy is already involved, i know you wont like to start over again, considering this is your spare lathe. For any future cast iron repair, you can buy silicon bronze rod at any welding store for all cast iron repair and you can break the flux and use the same rod for tig brazing cast iron. Those welding rods comes as an option where you can machine those welds for drilling, tapping or machining.. pretty hard and good stuff for any cast iron repairs.. And there are plenty of videos already available on the internet
Big fan from india… I surely dont have much use for a second head on the lathe.. all though the project was mindblowing.. I cant wrap my heads around on the way you managed to fix the tailstock also adding a lot of travel and making it more better than the factory.. God bless youtube :D
Now that is a really interesting solution Paul. I doubt it would work long term if the lathe was being used every day for ten to twelve hours of continuous use but for a small shop I think you may have hit on a good compromise. I look forward to seeing updates after a few months of usage… (well also the other videos in between of course). Great video as always. :)
Hi Gary, That’s my thinking at the moment. The lathe was OK as it was but me being me, I had to see what I could do to improve it, if it was possible that is. cheers
Hey Paul, your solution to your worn ways is both brave and admirable! To be frank, you might just as well do it this way... what have you got to lose apart from some time and elbow grease?! I might have to do the same to my recently aquired Myford Super 7 of 1962 vintage. I liked your idea of adding iron powder/filings and I reckon the JB Weld will hold up well... if you keep the ways well oiled as you would for normal usage I think the saddle will glide beautifully... I've seen various types of epoxy mixtures being subjected to far greater stresses than you can apply to your repaired ways, and it's generally held up pretty well. I'm looking forward to your forthcoming progress reports! Greetings from Southport.
interesting approach. i used similar mix to mount my rf45 clone mill vertical slide to the base. first trammed it with grub screws and then epoxy with cast iron dust. seem to hold up well. my biggest concern with your system is that the epoxy will suffer from knocks and scratches. the way i understand the commercial stuff be used is under the saddle where it is never exposed, recon time will tell. i still think a slide with hss tool and clapper box and shaper stile single point is the way to fix machine tool ways. im collecting components to build up such a device. will let you know once i have some thing worth considering to show.
My dad used to ask me, Will it last 30 years? when I built a house. But now my standards have changed. Now I ask myself, will it last the rest of MY life. I would use the JB Weld too!
Good job. Just a small critic about often correcting the word aluminium (a spelling internationally used) to the wrong US spelling. It is like going to a football game (Liverpool against Chelsea) and correcting to soccer every time. Or talking about Bretzel and corrcting to pretzel!
Look forward to the updates. I'd expect the JB-Weld to hold up pretty well with the filler (I've seen some crazy stuff done with it and other higher end epoxy), and I'd not be surprised if you now have a better than new flat and straight machine - such giant old iron was probably not that perfect from the factory as for the most part the operators are well trained experts that can when the tolerance requirement is fine enough make up for the machines imprecision on the fly (plus the size of it to the size and tolerance of most jobs means that error works out as irrelevantly small) - not seen many period adverts that mention such precision for anything larger than a clock/watch makers lathe myself...
Hi, Yes you’re right I started my machining life on machines that were well past their sell by date, and we were always expected to work to very tight tolerances even on colossal machines, one of mine was a small 20 metre long four point milling machine. The biggest boring machine I ever worked on was a 14 foot dia twin ram. scary stuff. regards.
It's obviously way too late, but I was wondering how much of a problem these were in the first place, before you did all of this? Was it barely noticeable, and not really an actual problem for most things you would turn, or was it pretty much useless before fixing it?
Hola, gracias por tu comentario, usaré grafito para pulir las caras de trabajo cuando termine la 'tuerca de tornillo de deslizamiento cruzado'. Tengo más proyectos para este torno cuando esté completo, pero eso será otra serie de videos. Saludos.
The mixture of jb weld and iron powder is good for stationary use but will it not withstand the wear when used as a slideway. So much work...for what? Btw: What do you want to fabricate an the lathe, parts for satellites? I have the feeling that you overestimate the need of precision of the lathe for daily work.
Hi Paul, for most of my life I worked on very old and very big machines all of them had wear in them and all operators that worked these machines had to make turbo generators and locomotives to very high standards, I bought this lathe with the knowledge that it was worn and tired, my mission in this case is not to fix it up like new, but to get the best I can from it. Your input is most appreciated, thanks. PS. I hope the JB stays on otherwise I may have to do it again, another way.
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"Making it better than it was yesterday" is indeed a very, VERY powerful proverb. If enough people applied it to enough parts of their lives every day, the world would be a much better and much happier place :) Keep up the good work, hope the JB holds up!
Hi, thank you, my motto has always been ‘nothing is impossible all you need is time”, cheers
I'd buy both of those on a t-shirt!
Love the channel, I'm still working on my "Level 1 Men in sheds" qualification but the trouble is that employment keeps getting in the way. I'll keep buying those lottery tickets too 😅
Keep up the good work 👍
Very innovative idea 💡 using the JB Weld with the Iron.
The lathe bed looks great.
I am hoping it holds up well for you.
Thanks for sharing the process. 👍
Without a doubt, you are the bravest and most patient machinist on RUclips. And did I mention your creativity, resourcefulness and great sense of humor? Thanks for sharing all of it. Cheers, F.C.
Hi, nice… I was unaware that I have a sense of humour, my wife doesn’t think so. cheers
You've inspired me to fix my SB 9 bed wear and the JB iron mix is quite the innovation.
Time to step it up a bit and mix up a little thermite ...what could go wrong.
I like your aproach, and this remembers me of an product that i used sometime ago.. i was making a two cilinder pomez stone grinding machine, to reduce the factory supply of 10/15mm size of pomez to 2/8mm in batchs filtered.. well.. to avoid using a lot of money and steel, i maked a cilinder of sand plus epoxi for weight and general stiffnes, then outside aplied a couple of coats of epoxi and thin fiberglass fabric to avoid the sand exposi mixture breaks apart under presure of grinding the stones.. then in the surface i tried first a coat of an surface epoxi resin that contains 50% of iron dust, that works well grinding the stones, but sometimes, a couple of hard rocks gets in the mixture of pomez from factory, so finally that hard rocks makes little craters in the surface epoxi, then I scrapped all the surface epoxi and replaced with another surface epoxi resin with silicon carbide dust... that was an absolute beast... years later used a little that last for making a garden tool and trying to make holes with a drill of 1,5mm let me crushing 3 drill bits into shape of needles with just a couple of drills into that thing hardened.. something like that should actually last longer and maybe compete with the iron bed? maybe its a thing about the resin that held that particles in place than the carbide in itself..or iron in your case..
Hi, sorry i didn't reply, I missed your comment. Thank you, brilliant. Thats very encouraging. Cheers
Greetings, your video is a godsend! This past Christmas Eve (2023), I took possession of what wound up being, under all the flaking paint and rust, a 1942 South Bend 10R "Heavy", with 1" bore spindle (1-7/8"x8 thread nose), no tooling, no toolpost, no compound, no plates, no centers! Scratched spindle and bearings from years of no lube and much dirt, and front vee way worn down 0.040-0.050". Huge ridge at the top. Slight ridge on the rear vee, almost none on the tailstock vee.
YOUR VIDEO GIVES ME HOPE
Even as bad as mine is, it had to have been used for something to get as worn as it is. I certainly can't make it any worse, so I'm going to give your method a try (tell the truth, I actually considered it, but thought better of asking anyone what they thought of the idea, they'd think me loony!). I'll probably also have to give some consideration to the wear to the inside vee of the saddle, not sure how to handle that, but I'll sort it somehow.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! Off to buy a case of JB Weld and a tub of iron powder!
I will never have the courage to try this but it is nice to watch somebody who does have the courage.
well if you think about it, he cant make it worst than it is, not much to loose less some time and epoxy. may be painful to strip it off if it fails, but the bed underneath will still be the same.... can do a second attempt if it has to.
Hi, I did’t need courage because the lathe will still do what I want it to do and I still have my little lathe. To me, courage is doing what I’d originally thought of doing and that was to mill off the bad bits and bolt on new cast sections and scrape them in…. but that is for some one else to do. cheers
Great video and nice to find another Sout Bend 13 owner in the UK👍Mine dates to 1943 and is ex US military. I bought it locally in East Anglia last November and currently have it completely stripped, cleaned and painted apart from the bed which is 7 feet long. I forsee many challenges putting it back together as I neglected to take photos😕
One issue I have found is the shipping cost for anything from the States, I need a set of oiling felts but it works out at around £80😱I am hoping that lamp wicks will work
🤞
You did well adding the iron filings as it will add strength to the j b weld and cause an equal wear rate of equally dispersed slide action travels and will lap in ways sufficiently on it's own.
Well done asual.
Hi, thank you.
I may have to do the same with a lathe i am about to refurb, i have been recommended a 2 pack epoxy called Belzona , which i think uses steel powder as a filler. Brilliant video and a very brave and effective repair!
Phil
Hi, thanks. I’ve not seen that brand of epoxy i’ll look it up. cheers
Hats off to you ,that is a very ingenious repairs although I have seen this product (minus the cast iron dust ) used before to good effect I would never have thought of this solution.looking forward to the refit.Thank you.
Hi, I too am looking forward to the refit. cheers
love the Heath Robinson reference great process, thanks for sharing
Great series, and it is always nice to see how someone else approached the problem. A lot of work, but you kept it simple stick to the plan and hopefully are pleased with the results. Enjoyed quite a lot, thanks and cheers!
Hi thank you, glad you’re enjoying the seiries. regards
That JB weld is amazing stuff, I used it to repair all sorts of stuff in the past with great effect. Would never thought of using it on the lathe bed ways. I'm sure it'll hold up as long as it's lubricated properly. Thanks for sharing Paul.
Hi, I hope it does work because I have got plans for it.. cheers
Well, that looks like a lot of work. I mean a lot...
I admire your patience.
Hi. Thanks, it is a lot of work, but nothing like doing the straight edges.
Cheers.
That was very good Paul. Ingenious. I don't know about JB Weld but I have used Devcon putty before, it is made to various UK and US military specs. It can be drilled, tapped and machined when cured. So I think your repair will do very well. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Carl. I too think I once used Devcon If memory serves me right its a putty in two equal parts, one red and one cream, work the two together to the shape of a hammer and it is a fully functional tool.
cheers
@@Thesheddweller Yes that is right. I have used it to successfully repair aluminium hydraulic manifold blicks in emergencies.
Forgot to ask, from where did you get the big piece you used as your straight edge for marking the sides of the vees? Looks like a great big piece of CRS, but I can't tell. Also, how did you hold it in the proper orientation for marking? Many thanks for any info you can provide.
Just purchased a SB model A. 9” x 3 1/2. Bed ways are severely damaged. Was wondering how to repair without spending too much money. Thank you for the idea
Hi, you're welcome.
In regard to mixing cast iron or Moly to JBWeld, heat it up with a heat gun or hair dryer and it gets extremely soupy. It works great! I did this when repairing a variable speed reeves drive which slides in a delrin sleeve. Its way more slippery than JB weld by itself and its stronger too. Less scratch resistant.
Hi, thanks for that, I’ll remember that, good tip thanks.
G’day mate, I’ve got a lathe with a similar issue, and it’s value is low enough to run with a sketchy repair. Just wondering how your epoxy repair is holding up after some use?
Hi.
I’ve not done any more than, maybe, 50 hours work since the repair. What I can tell you is that in the initial stages there was a bit of residual blackness where slide oil washed away any dirt. The slides have traces of scrape marks as you would expect, but now they appear to have stabilised better than I expected. They won’t last forever but they are doing what I expected probably better.
Regards.
@@Thesheddweller thanks mate appreciate the update. I’m looking at putting some Aliexpress Turcite on my saddle so this might help with longevity.
Great job Paul! Thanks for sharing with us.
Hi, you’re welcome.
How is the iron infused resin holding up?
I'm very new to precision, and it seems to be a pretty flexible way to fix parts.
I have some some crazy ideas of using something like this on top of carbon fiber plates to hone in some very makeshift and lightweight surface plates.
Hi, the resin is still holding out quite well. however, it did get very messy when I first used it, the oil and some of the resin produced some pretty black grease at first, I suspect that the cast iron dust that I mixed into the resin has now stabilised the resin and although I suspect that the resin won't last as long as the iron Bed-way It should prolong the life of this lathe for a few years more.
regards.
love the outside the box thinking....be interesting to see how this holds up over time
Hi, I too can’t wait.
I wonder what would happen if you used plastic wrap, like the stuff you cover food with, between them, if it would just peel off easily, or even if you just had to slide on them a couple times to get the plastic wrap to disappear? I used Pam cooking spray when I was making resin miniatures, so maybe it would work better? Looks like it worked out anyway for you regardless. Thanks for the vids man!!
I think this is a great series. I would have suggested using turcite over jbweld though. It is relatively affordable.
Hi, sorry i didn't reply, I missed your comment. Thank you but I believe the quantity minimum is one litre, can't imagine why I would want one litre. Cheers
Well !
You done me with that one 😊
Would never of thought to use liquid metal. But,,,, I used to use loads of it years ago, Belzona I think it was called and it was really good stuff.
Nicely done matey 😁😁😁
Hi, I aim to please. My other idea was to mil out the bad section using my mill bolted to one side, then make a replacement piece and use bolts and pins to retain it. that would have dropped a few gobs, ehh.
cheers
@@Thesheddweller hey Paul !
That would have had the purists kicking in you workshop door.
I have to be honest though, that idea is very plausible if you use full length rails. Mmm 🤔🤔🤔
@@NellsMechanicalManCave nah, if i could do that i could mill it not grind it….😁
Hello Paul,
A super interesting video, thank you... did you purchase the cast iron dust (if so where from). You may have mentioned and I missed it, but how long did you leave the JB Weld before starting to scrape it? See you on the next one.
Take care.
Paul,,
Hi Paul, the iron dust I got from a company in Northern Ireland (MB Fibreglass) 1kg at £7 double that for p&p, and then some for import duties.
I left the mixture to harden for 48 hours at approximately 18º C. I hope this helps. Cheers
Greetings oh Shed creature as UK origin. It so happened I traded about a full day and a half labor, where in deference to cash payment I took possession of a South Bend 9 of 4 foot bed length. Serial number as 62016. At removal from a type of scrapyard, I lifted the unit and placed it to a block wall as attached to a thick pine plank, so as to fully access all components. I soaked the entire unit in light oil for as 48 hours. Hence to partial dis assembly and cleaning. That process as to remove rust and any build up. The cleaning advanced to particular care as bed way. A powerful thinner, the chief regard with plastic and cloth impliments. As summer progressed, I constructed block risers, via mortar to the shop concrete floor and leveled the top surfaces with mason level. Hence, moved the cleaned unit as re assembled to that surface mounting, again with dense pine planking to achieve a span with a slight degree as vibration resistance and where slight variation can be modified by shims.
With a drive worked out, I constructed a tool holder, continuing to both inspection and lubrication. As I looked up the serial number, I have the viewpoint this unit was delivered as winter 1935 to Spring? 1936. To arrive at the belief this lathe has an age as 88 years. And, where with current light non ferros, dense plastics, aluminum it indeed has fair precision to work piece.
At present, I simply use a simple back plate with component fastener clamping.
I observe the same difficult wear instance as your post cited. And, where I happily now plan to try your method, understanding the potential for improvement. And where, I in fact now process jobs as to more fully equip the unit as tool function. Some as a soft blow mallet, a design as a 8 inch chuck with "fingers" as to hold work. I found a broken craftsman lathe bed and designed a sliding table as accessory to execute dial measurement with no interference to the central components. Save it must be removed for the full bedway length job functionality.
As things stand, I now manage a range of task, having secured some excellent tool and various smaller collet, and where with a small budget I can execute most linear cutting needs. Continuing to add end gear multiples as to address change gear and where the unit will seize advantage as so positioned to share compressed air motor space to lathe drive, saving space and protected from incidental entanglement. The care and design...robust components I find more fun that lesser Chinese design.
I plan to study features as digital readouts, design as a mill attachment and happily add to various stock in metals and tube. What I recommend to the interested hobby machinist, tradesman is the South bend manuals. Which, were well thought out as both a sales and support. Detailed in measurements and attachments. Some, a bit unusual and curious.
With this background, for the enthusiast, I recommend Sam at Swan Valley Machine shop (Channel) AU. And, where I quite thank you for the effort to share the repair method, scraping domain to improved precision. As that goal set is effortless to the craftsman....journeyman to the range of metal production to task. It so happens this is the holiday season with snow, and I bid you fair holiday winds. As from half a world away. M.
Interesting video! I have used JB Weld steel filled epoxy quite a bit and while it is tough, it is not hard, certainly not as hard as even soft aluminum. I will be interested to see how it wears. In Europe they seem to talk about Moglice strips instead of Turcite.
Hi, I too will be very interested to see how well it lasts. Cheers
Hi,
I am beyond words to express your talent, insight and dedication to this restoration. But there are certain things I would like to add.
JB weld is just another epoxy glue and added metals in jb weld and iron powder might have some added rigidity but in the end it is a glue.
Also jb weld is too soft & do not make a good bearing surface unlike moglice, or turcite or belzona. I think the best way to approch this was to use a hard facing rod or stick weld with a silicon bronze rod.
You can machine jb weld but in the end the bed will be very soft. If you use it extensively it will show accelerated wear. If used sparingly i guess this is a good fix for a worn out lathe bed.
Hi Roy, I don't think I shall be using it that much however, I very much appreciate your input I like the stick welding idea with silicone bronze rod.
can you tell me where I can get I more info on this welding system? much appreciated. regards
@@Thesheddweller since a lot of time and energy is already involved, i know you wont like to start over again, considering this is your spare lathe.
For any future cast iron repair, you can buy silicon bronze rod at any welding store for all cast iron repair and you can break the flux and use the same rod for tig brazing cast iron.
Those welding rods comes as an option where you can machine those welds for drilling, tapping or machining.. pretty hard and good stuff for any cast iron repairs..
And there are plenty of videos already available on the internet
Big fan from india…
I surely dont have much use for a second head on the lathe.. all though the project was mindblowing..
I cant wrap my heads around on the way you managed to fix the tailstock also adding a lot of travel and making it more better than the factory..
God bless youtube :D
@@RoyMeraki Thanks I will look at this solution should I find that the glue doesn't cope. cheers
@@RoyMeraki Cheers Roy
Wonderful. I would have never thought of doing that. Cheers
Hi, thanks, cheers
Now that is a really interesting solution Paul. I doubt it would work long term if the lathe was being used every day for ten to twelve hours of continuous use but for a small shop I think you may have hit on a good compromise. I look forward to seeing updates after a few months of usage… (well also the other videos in between of course). Great video as always. :)
Hi Gary, That’s my thinking at the moment. The lathe was OK as it was but me being me, I had to see what I could do to improve it, if it was possible that is. cheers
Hey Paul, your solution to your worn ways is both brave and admirable! To be frank, you might just as well do it this way... what have you got to lose apart from some time and elbow grease?! I might have to do the same to my recently aquired Myford Super 7 of 1962 vintage. I liked your idea of adding iron powder/filings and I reckon the JB Weld will hold up well... if you keep the ways well oiled as you would for normal usage I think the saddle will glide beautifully... I've seen various types of epoxy mixtures being subjected to far greater stresses than you can apply to your repaired ways, and it's generally held up pretty well. I'm looking forward to your forthcoming progress reports! Greetings from Southport.
Hi, I’m glad you found it useful. I suspect that I’ll get plenty of feed back from it. A myford lathe is a very good lathe, age means nothing. regards
interesting approach. i used similar mix to mount my rf45 clone mill vertical slide to the base. first trammed it with grub screws and then epoxy with cast iron dust. seem to hold up well. my biggest concern with your system is that the epoxy will suffer from knocks and scratches. the way i understand the commercial stuff be used is under the saddle where it is never exposed, recon time will tell. i still think a slide with hss tool and clapper box and shaper stile single point is the way to fix machine tool ways. im collecting components to build up such a device. will let you know once i have some thing worth considering to show.
Hi, I agree with the HSS tool and elbow grease method for this fix…. but I’ve got to try this first. looking forward to info on your device. Cheers.
Great adventure, you would benefit from using a stiffer backer for sanding
Hi, I only roughed the built up rubbish off, then scraped it flat, it only took a few minutes to do each one, the scraping takes the time.
Interesting approach. I've seen some that got the beds reground, depending on budget it might be less painful.
Hi, I would get the bed reground but the cost is astronomical. cheers
My dad used to ask me, Will it last 30 years? when I built a house. But now my standards have changed. Now I ask myself, will it last the rest of MY life. I would use the JB Weld too!
Good job. Just a small critic about often correcting the word aluminium (a spelling internationally used) to the wrong US spelling. It is like going to a football game (Liverpool against Chelsea) and correcting to soccer every time. Or talking about Bretzel and corrcting to pretzel!
Hi, thanks. I know it rubs but, the majority of my viewers are from there. cheers.
Look forward to the updates. I'd expect the JB-Weld to hold up pretty well with the filler (I've seen some crazy stuff done with it and other higher end epoxy), and I'd not be surprised if you now have a better than new flat and straight machine - such giant old iron was probably not that perfect from the factory as for the most part the operators are well trained experts that can when the tolerance requirement is fine enough make up for the machines imprecision on the fly (plus the size of it to the size and tolerance of most jobs means that error works out as irrelevantly small) - not seen many period adverts that mention such precision for anything larger than a clock/watch makers lathe myself...
Hi, Yes you’re right I started my machining life on machines that were well past their sell by date, and we were always expected to work to very tight tolerances even on colossal machines, one of mine was a small 20 metre long four point milling machine. The biggest boring machine I ever worked on was a 14 foot dia twin ram. scary stuff. regards.
It's obviously way too late, but I was wondering how much of a problem these were in the first place, before you did all of this?
Was it barely noticeable, and not really an actual problem for most things you would turn, or was it pretty much useless before fixing it?
That was just great !
Glad you're enjoying the series. Cheers
Outstanding 💯🙌🙏💪
Hi, cheers
Use silicone dry glide for release agent.
bit late now, jobs done,, 😁 cheers
How did this epoxy hold up?
Hola que es lo que agrega al epoxi es grafito
Hola, gracias por tu comentario, usaré grafito para pulir las caras de trabajo cuando termine la 'tuerca de tornillo de deslizamiento cruzado'. Tengo más proyectos para este torno cuando esté completo, pero eso será otra serie de videos. Saludos.
@@Thesheddweller
gracias por contestarme la pregunta yo tengo problemas con mi bancada y rectificar es muy caro voy a probar como vos lo haces gracias
The mixture of jb weld and iron powder is good for stationary use but will it not withstand the wear when used as a slideway. So much work...for what?
Btw: What do you want to fabricate an the lathe, parts for satellites? I have the feeling that you overestimate the need of precision of the lathe for daily work.
Hi Paul, for most of my life I worked on very old and very big machines all of them had wear in them and all operators that worked these machines had to make turbo generators and locomotives to very high standards, I bought this lathe with the knowledge that it was worn and tired, my mission in this case is not to fix it up like new, but to get the best I can from it. Your input is most appreciated, thanks. PS. I hope the JB stays on otherwise I may have to do it again, another way.