3 minutes before cut off, at a max of 400c? Sounds like a fire hazard to me. PLA ignites at 388c. Bambu lab is in damage control and making excuses for their 3 min timer it seems, rather than just admitting their negligence. Not surprised that some youtubers are dropping support for bambu lab. "we set the protection to 3 minutes to avoid false alarms ruining a print." Yeah..I could care less about ruining a print, when it means their is a very potential fire hazard and risk of burning a house down.
@LilApe right. I ordered a p1p a few days ago and now I'm somewhat worried that they won't fix it, and since the firmware isn't open source I can't do it myself. 30 seconds maximum for thermal runaway, no reason they had to make it 3 minutes
@@LilApe Yeah well if the temperature is dropping hard when heater is high that's a bad sign anyway, that doesn't speak for the print coming out good either! And if you're willing to salvage a bad print, you might as well reprint just the top from some layer upwards, so there isn't a lot of value in semi rescuing a print. Either way safety takes precedence, some aborted prints are fully acceptable. I'm thinking the real reason is that they wanted to reduce the support workload, they don't necessarily want people calling them and filing tickets before they're on fire.
@@LilApe well said i agree with that there are too many issues with this printer what are they waiting for someone to die from a housefire before they recall all there printers, they should have sorted these issues out before they sold them rather than sell them then iron the problems out from users complaining, wait and see, i would never leave this printer printing alone as its to dangerous, there are other users on RUclips having nothing but issues as well, look aT jessies channel he has had nothing but issues and has had more than one of these
@@LilApe yes i totaly agreee with the comment, this printer should have never hit the market untill it was working and safe to do so, witch is totaly not the case, every video i have seen for this printer there is something wrong with it, why should you have to repair it after just a couple of weeks owning it especialley for the price, its an accident waiting to happen, and heaven ferbid it does not burn someones house down especialley if they have children
Love your videos man. I'm waiting on your full final review of the x1. I just purchased mine should be here Thursday. Keep up the good work. It's people like you that help small side businesses like mine running smooth. Thank you.
I’ve been researching for a few years before I went with Bambu P1P as my first printer. I can say within those years it seems every printer you purchase you will need to tinker with, replacing parts and problem solving. If anyone feels that tinkering with this is overwhelming then this hobby isn’t for that person. For me I tinker with vehicles, computers, etc.. So I knew what I was getting into and ready for the challenge. Thanks for the video share.
Loads of interesting takes on the X1, thanks for that interesting video! The support is quick in responding and in sending spares, BUT: You have to repair it on your own. This will scare the hell out of many people - like you say. The (missing?!) thermal run-a-way protection is worrying! Need to try that. And damn: You have a LOT of problems on your's! My two X1 (early demo and kickstarter pledge) are mostly VERY reliable (except for occasional clogs). For higher quality prints I made a 75% profile: All speeds/accelerations scaled down to 75% - print time isn't affected that much, as there are other bottle necks most of the time (slow downs for overhangs/cooling). Nevertheless: Fully agreed, Bambu did/does a very good job in comparison, but they're/we're not 100% "there", yet - like on photo-copiers or other mass produces machines - concerning after-sales and concerning the perfect tuning of the machines/settings.
but which printer you dont have to repair on yourself? if i look at the daily growing bambu wiki with pics and videos its way easier to repair than any other printer. no self printing parts that doesnt fit(lose or too tight)
@@IncredibleCisco Thing is: Ease of use out of the box and fire-and-forget printing is Bambu Labs main advertisement. This issue threatens their USP ...
@@IncredibleCisco There is another company with excelent support, shop and instructions: Prusa! That is THE reason, why it is more often recommended although much more expensive than a Ender 3 clone. For the problem with self printed parts that does not fit there could be the alternative to order that parts, maybe even extruded parts which does fit. So ... there is room for improvement! "but which printer you dont have to repair on yourself?" ... Either the one which you just have to send to a repair shop of the company in your country like there are from many smartphone companies OR the "professional" printer for a couple of thousands more where you ring up the support and a technician comes for repair. So .. there are solutions, but none of them where you buy a product one time and be forever happy with it.
It would be interesting to know how many hours and materials (because of temperatures) you printed. I don't know if Bambu Lab has a maintenance plan for it's machines but maybe after 300/ 400 hours some kind of maintenance would be clever. This could also include some tests (to see if safety measures are still in tact) and to check if something got loose.
I just went to their website and haven't found replacement boards for print heads. It seems that they have only a subset of parts that you can buy right now (don't know about the future). When buying printer, I would like to get all the parts that can potentially break during the life of the printer right away, like fans nozzles, cables, etc. If the printer will work on-and-off for 10 years printing some spare parts and organizers for the workshop, then it should have all the spare parts available for the whole work duration. Bambu Lab is a new company, and I've seen time and time again, when companies dropped support for their best selling devices, or for a little bit older models.
Yeah I see what you mean. If they decide to release a new model they have every reason to make the old ones impossible to repair. We're at their mercy in this situation. Just be thankful that there are aftermarket parts... Unless they decide to patent all the electronics, close source it and make them impossible to reverse engineer so aftermarket parts cannot exist. Guess we will just have to wait and see. But if we have learnt anything from Apple, the above seems likely.
There is a reason I never buy a gen 1 car from a new company. Same reason I will wait till there is a bambu xl. They did their homework but the cult following is both cringe and worrying considering no one has even had one a year. I see people shilling this machine that don't even own one and have never even seen one. I appreciate your honest experience of using the machine.
I get a feeling this machine was designed with two very specific goals in mind; 1) A specific speed 2) A specific cost Everything else has had to abide by those goals. I still kind of want one to play with, but I'd rather buy another voron personally. But I *really* do like that they've made a machine significantly better then most of the run-of-the-mill creality and ender 3 clones, able to give people a taste of what higher end machines can do at a much lower bar of entry. And this whole market needs some disruption, been stagnant for way too long in the comercial consumer sphere!
I am surprised by how many connectors there are in that toolhead, but the laptop to desktop comparison is spot on. It's less daunting to work on a (non micro itx) desktop because you're only competing with the connectors and not the just-enough cable runs or delicate ribbon cables like you are on a laptop. I'm comfortable with that stuff and still hate ribbon cables. I've torched 3 monitors over the years because of the fragility and lack of physical resistance to let you know you're tugging one.
hi just here to say I had the exact same problem across multiple printers, and I was stalked and harassed by the staff and nobody believed me about the artifacting. I was told that I was a scammer who wanted free printers and then they continued to leak information about myself to people in the Discord. I had to go to my bank and do a chargeback because I was stuck with three dogshit, artifacting printers with staff who didn't want to do anything other than ask me if i cleaned the rails 4 times flipped it all the angles in the world all the temps all the speeds all the accelerations all the jerks and that I was the underlying problem to everything since its what all the prints had in common. They even made this conspiracy theory that every person in the Discord who complained was me on a different accounts, that I socially engineered people for hundreds of hours to get free stuff, that i was mentally ill (yes, the representative of bambu lab said that to me), honestly great stuff really love how I am being treated after being spending thousands of dollars. I spent over 11 weeks, every single day, atleast 400 dollars in fillament trying to fix their printers for them. It was a waste of time, they aren't good machines. The company is just a bunch of random people with a shell headquarters in Texas with no track record of delivering quality products to market. I also had one DOA system that they forced me to open day one and the thing was horrible to take apart,. The motor died so the thing would just slam the head into the side of the chasis and damage itself LOL, then they told us to superglue our cracking ams systems. Since then, I went and bought three ankermake printers and they've all worked beautifully. I'm still down 4500 dollars due to bambu lab and hope my bank will help me sort it out, as they seem they are doing. Shout out to Will, Larry V and also Hedgehog if you see this, you are terrible people and i hope you get fired.
Thank you for the updates and just the honest perception. 3d printing you have to be prepared to tinker! You cannot be scared to take the cover off and see what makes it tick so to speak. If you are not prepared to do that you are going to be pulling your hair out. 3d printing is a hobby nested inside of another hobby that work together. Fantastic video.
I have learned that the hard way with my ender 3 that i am learning how to mod myself. My next hurdle is going to be replacing fans. I feel confident because of what i have done so far, but it took alot to take that first step into tinkering.
Imo those print look pretty darn good. Seems to be a bit of oozing happening on layer shifts (not retracting enough?). The sharpness of the edges of those voron prints seems to be printing artifacts (overextruding on corners)
I'm at 706 in your video, and I'm blown away by where you're going with this review. I'd like to add that I bought a BIQU Hurakan in early December of 2022, and now, on February 24, 2023, it's in pieces on my work bench while I wait for an S-load of parts to "fix" it. Good for you! My X1 Carbon is coming tomorrow. I bought it because it's "plug and play." Wish I'd seen your video (this video) before I made my purchase. Providing customer support on such a complicated machine is going to eat Bamboo Labs profits like popcorn at a first run of The Matrix.
for the MB fan use noctua 5v pwm version with 4 cables. working flawless with me. next video dont forget to place the wire diagram: ground - Dark Gray (Next to Black)-> Black color cable on noctua 5v- Black -> Yellow rpm speed signal - Light Gray (Next to White) -> Green pwm - White-> Blue for the chamber fan i have replaced with another model from NMB but just reduce the flow to 40% of the stock fan and open the top lid glass when printing PLA.
Although the Bambu range of printers look good on paper for long term use it may not be so bright. As the parts are propriety you could have serious issues in terms of getting replacement parts and what happens when the printer is made obsolete or if the company goes out of business. The Bambu range or printers, the Ultimaker etc are all made to resemble an applicance, the problem is appliances will need servicing or repairs at some stage. These printers are some much more difficult to work on compared to your rep-rap bed slinger type 3D Printers. My first 3D Printer was a Creatbot which is an applicance type 3D Printer, which for the time was great when it worked. When things went wrong and needed to be fixed it was a pain, even changing the nozzle wasn't easy compared to the other 3D Printers I have had since.
I get excellent results on the X1 carbon, however I never use the recommended speed settings. I essentially cut them in half, which is still significantly higher than most other printers. The first layer I always run around 50-60 mm/s to ensure that the rest of the print has a solid base. Ever since I've started running at around half the normal speed, things have been great. The stock settings are just way too high for anything other than draft/prototype prints.
I think you have the wrong idea of prusa support. When you contact prusa support, you will get a live person within minutes and they will work with you for as long as it takes to resolve your issue. Replacement parts are easy to get either via prusa or off the shelf. Prusa is the standard for 3D support.
I'm not sure if my issue is the same thing but hoping for some advice. Bear in mind I am VERY new to 3d printing. I was given a very lightly used MP select mini v2 in December and it's been working great up until yesterday. This was the first issue I've had and my first failed print. The nozzle appeared to have grabbed part of the print and was pulling it along as it did more layers. The kapton tape and fiberglass insulation on the heat block had fused to the print and was pulled off the heat block. Luckily I was nearby when this began. While I was standing there watching it I began to smell hot plastic and saw a wisp of smoke. As I was reaching to power it off I saw the temps climb to 330° even though it was set to 215 and had been working perfectly through over 2kg of Duramic PLA+ (recommended print temp of 220). I pulled it apart and checked the hotend over. The PTFE sleeve in the heatbreak was burned at the lowest point and had narrowed to a pin point. I tested the thermistor and it tests out fine and when it was installed it still read the temps and kept updating. The printer just wouldn't stay at the temps I set it to. So I'm not sure if this is thermal runaway due to a bad thermistor or not. The nozzle is discoloured now and definitely cooked. Nothing moves through it now so I'm not even going to try and clean it and I'm waiting for replacements to arrive. I'm happy to replace whatever parts are needed but I don't want to just toss parts a problem without knowing for sure if those parts are the problem. Any ideas?
On the subject of repairs: I think your dishwasher analogy is still valid. Very few folks are going to be comfortable doing any repairs to a dishwasher if it failed. Or a high-end office printer - I used to fix those for a living and it wasn't super hard but I definitely needed to be taught how when I first started. The difference is that Bambu doesn't yet have the support infrastructure they need to do repairs for clients all around the world. But if you look into the history of things like dishwashers or televisions or even cars, you'll see there's a similar trend - when the technology or equipment is brand new there's a surge of interest, and then a slow-down when the maker's ability to repair in-use items gets overwhelmed, and then the growth of a repair industry and a surge in uptake by the population. I'm speculating, of course, but I suspect that Bambu has plans for repair/support infrastructure. Obviously folks in denser markets like China, Europe, or the US will get better service than someone like me up in Alberta. But I'd be really surprised if - given how this printer is clearly hoping to hit the office/university/school market - Bambu doesn't at least have a strategy for how they'll deal with repairs. Which doesn't help us all in the interim, but also doesn't change my feeling that this *is* the best first printer for someone who isn't interested in building or modding their machine. Because they seem to be very reliable out of the box and that will get the new user engaged and interested in the "design and build things" side of the hobby. Whereas my incredibly annoying Ender-5 almost drove me right out of using 3d printing as a solution for any of my building projects. On the subject of mechanical precision: I find it very interesting that your experience is so different. The main thing I print is prop pieces, usually in ABS, that will be sanded and painted in such a way as to no longer seem like a 3d print. And my X1C is orders of magnitude more precise than the Ender-5 I mentioned above. Even with a 0.4mm nozzle, I can print a 3.75" droid that looks just fine sitting on my shelf next to one mass-produced by Hasbro. The prop parts I mentioned take a tenth the time to sand smooth and even a curved or sloping top surface often doesn't need *any* sanding, just a bit of filler primer, if I remembered to iron it. I'm using the Generic ABS filament setting and made my own "quality" print preset - but that was really simple, all I did was start with the 0.12mm layer height, increast the wall loops and top and bottom to 6 each, the infill to 30% for good top coverage, and cut every single speed to half the default. Which seems to be faster than your custom settings. And yeah - with those settings, I'm getting stuff that rivals plasma-cut aluminium for smoothness and precision. The only thing I can think of that I'm doing different is throwing a blanket on top and a couple of big pieces of foam on the outside between the printer and the wall and shelf risers. I did that for insulation - when it's -40 outside my vented-externally printing room struggles to stay at +10 and I want to keep the printer above +50 while I'm printing, so some extra insulation was needed. But it might be providing a bit of damping? I doubt it, though - that toy I mentioned was printed with the promo PLA long before I attempted ABS. Maybe you just got unlucky, or I got lucky? Or, perhaps, we're working with different standards of perfection - the only thing I really have to compare this machine to is the Ender-5 which wasn't awful but also wasn't awesome.
I've personally seen many people take an instant liking to this printer, both for its ready to go out of the box type of approach and for the ability to change colours, as a first 3D printer I would say its good to establish what to expect from printers, allowing people to chose where people go from there. Also couldn't agree more about the creality contact, as someone who owned an Ender 3 V2 creality are not at all welcoming to people wanting to get replacement parts.
Thanks for the video! I appreciate you surfacing issues and how you address them. One of the issues I'm seeing, related to ringing or ghosting, are the ripples that match the belt pitch on X/Y. Have you noticed this issue? I think BambuLab is aware and working on it based on the CEO's recent AMA, but I don't know what progress has been made or what the priority is. There's talk in FB Groups and Discord about using Gates belts, changing the smooth idler pulleys to toothed ones, and changing the stepper motors, but doesn't seem like anyone has attempted to do so as yet. Changing the idler pulleys seems like the most difficult though, especially without instructions and looks like the frame may need to be disassembled.
Oh bloody hell, i hoped smooth pulleys would have died already! At least when it comes to machines which are beyond the $200 class. I understand why manufacturers use them. They are cheaper (several cents for smooth vs. a couple dollars for the toothy), and when the smooth pulley seizes on a garbage shot bearing, and that happens quite a bit, nothing happens, the belt can just keep slipping on it fine. When a toothed pulley seizes, well you're not gonna have a good time, so they better be actually good, and you'd still get a few stray complaints and returns where on smooth ones the issue would go unnoticed. But it doesn't mean i have to like it!
@@SianaGearz I hope that people will be more vocal about this issue so BambuLab will prioritize a fix. Unfortunately, public callout by those with a larger audience and influence in the community (*cough* @MandicReally) may be the push that's needed to get things going.
So far the only way I've eliminated ringing is turning inner/outer walls down to 1k accels, and run everything else high. The biggest hurdle now is the belt pattern like VFA's, at least for me. The over smoothing is also pretty annoying. Great video. I hope Bambu steps up their software game, because it's definitely lacking. The hardware is certainly there.
I've dropped acceleration on my "Quality" preset but haven't gone quite that far. I don't hate the ringing and ghosting honestly. I'm just raising the concern about a machine that is meant to be a "Push-Button and Go", "No Tuning Necessary" box, having it. If I could go in and tune that out at my own discretion, I wouldn't care. The rounded corners I do care about though. That annoys me. Crisp corners is something I've often looked at as defining a good print, and I can't do that here.
@@MandicReally Yeah, with the way things are now, I'd say the "set it and forget it" advertising is a bit of a beginners trap. I've already had a few things happen on my X1C that would greatly confuse a newcomer. While I have you, can you confirm seam placement ends up being inconsistent between the sliced g-code preview and the finished print when using Bambu studio? I've tried asking around several times and everyone just ignores me like I'm crazy lol.
@@760creations honestly I haven’t paid attention at all. I will now. I primarily use “Random” z seam alignment to spread it out, so I wouldn’t notice that normally. I’ll do some test runs and compare that.
It doesn't look too bad and having the video guide seems very good. However, it is true that a 3D printer is still not a commodity item. Per your analogy, most laptop owners would not disassemble and fix their laptops either. On the other hand, 3D printers have many more moving parts than a laptop, so there is more items that wear over time and may need replacement.
This is a great video and I hope many people will see it. I don't believe their thermal runaway statement, if your filament boils and the difference is 100°C then it should've turned off a long time ago, no excuses.
@@morbus5726 I'll ask again, where are you getting that 300C number from? The spec on the Bambu Website? Ceramic PTC Heaters are capable of going much hotter than 300C, that is just the spec that Bambu rates this heater to go to. A rating and an intended limit does not account for failure. A short has the potential to bypass an intended limit. A safer design does not mean it is a 100% safe design. E3D even says in their Revo information that it is safer, they don't say it is foolproof.
As someone who is looking for their first 3D printer in about 8 years (I had access to build and use a Mk0 prusia i3 clone for a year or so back in 2016), one of the things that really drove me away from the hobby was exactly how much tinkering was required. I would spend 90% of my time tinkering and fixing problems, instead of getting decent prints. My time is limited, I don't want to spend it all fixing problems. I'd much rather have a better out of the box experience, even if it means a little more work on repairs. The amount of time this design philosophy saves is so important to making 3D printing accessible. So today as I weigh the various options, I'm drawn more to the X1C and P1P, as opposed to the Prusas and Enders of the market today. The combination of faster print speed, quicker setup, and better out of the box experience, plus the advanced "AI" tech that can help detect and prevent problems from cropping up in the first place is what draws me to the Bambu Labs printers today, even though they cost more than your typical budget printers. It's a blunt way of saying it, but my free time is worth more to me than my money, and these printers are a good compromise between cost and accessibility to me. So would I prefer an easier repair process? Uh, sure, who wouldn't? But am I willing to give up all the other advantages for it? Not at all.
Honestly, they kept it down to only one (that I saw) ribbon cable, the rest are pretty standard plugs. That's excellent. Way easier to repair than some laptops I've worked on. And the USB-C plug for data/power? Blown away they did that, it's brilliant. Gives you the ability to swap the whole head for something entirely different if they come out with it in the future.
Thanks for the video. I have a Prusa MK3s with the MMU2s and Prusa Mini, as others I'm debating getting rid of the MK3s and maybe the Mini for Bambu. I built the MK3s as a kit, and it works, but since adding the MMU2s to it I've had nothing but issues with. I have no idea where to go to get fixes, so the fact Bambu offers videos on how to fix things is a upgrade in my mind. Again I love Prusa as a company. The printer is probably above my skill level to keep working.
I had a problem with my X1C where the nozzle wiper was misaligned. They had me send it in and sent me a replacement. I might be an outlier, but I've been happy with the BL support.
A factor that’s impossible to account for or judge. They’ve released 2 printers and already on the second machine changed parts. Multiple parts of the new P1P are different than the X-1, which raises concerns. It’s the danger of evolution. If you don’t update things you don’t improve, but you run the risk of outdating your own hardware and early adopters.
@@MandicReally That is one of the main reasons I haven't pulled the trigger on an X1C. The P1P already has a different hotend design and looks like certain parts are upgraded over the X1C! The AMS has already gotten some changes as well so these changes make me hesitant on dropping alot of money on a printer that's still getting upgrades along the way. I really think Bambu should've taken an extra month or two for input from RUclipsrs before locking in the mechanical components of the finished product. You're one of the only content creators that has shown some issues with your print quality. Almost every other video I've seen everyone has sung praises to the quality of their parts. I have seen a small group emerge where parts printed slowly begin to show some print defects from the belts at slow speeds. And Bambu basically chalked it up to CoreXY printers not running well at slow speeds. This may be why they don't have a quality profile, in fear of it being actually worse overall.
@@rileyneufeld7001 ...and then you have Prusa and Voron that just allow you t print the changes. Also, CoreXY does just fine at slower speeds, that's exceedingly dumb to say on their part. Also, the printers ship with white filament that hides all the flaws!
My first 3D printer was a Flashforge Finder, which looks "Easier" to fix than the bamboo (it's got a single toolhead board and everything is pretty straightforward under the toolhead's hood), so maybe it's more like building a PC than working on a laptop. Flashforge also is pretty decent at shooting out parts for under warranty printers (and will happily sell you parts for those printers that are out of warranty), but you have to do the repair yourself also. The finder seems easier to work on than the Bambu (three screws and you're looking at everything), but OTOH, The number of times I've had the hot end out (most recently for a faulty thermocouple, but I've done a nozzle change and PTFE Liner swaps too) is annoying, and that's for someone who sort-of-kind-of knew what was going on going in.
so refreshing to hear a pliable review on this hail Mary of a printer. its never ending seeing the start and walkaway concept with this printer. i feel personally it needs a lot more developmental hours and possibly an x2. i know its biult to a pricepoint but i feel they where about 200,000 hrs short of concept with this one
@@scotthancock8225 Literally nothing "revolutionary" about it dude lol. Its just another coreXY printer running klipper that they sold for cheap, using cheap parts. Let me know when bambu lab actually innovated on their own, rather than copying other people's hard work. I'm still waiting for you to tell me what they actually innovated on from the other video.
@@thenamelessone123 It performs no different than a voron from 2 years ago, therefore it's not revolutionary. An I3 printer running klipper runs just as fast and puts out the same quality. What is ONE thing bambu has done, that no other 3d printer company has, that has resulted in being a game changer?
@Lil Ape I'd say the out-of-box speed and quality is pretty revolutionary. It puts out better quality prints with the standard profile than any of my other printers with tuned profiles. I've also never seen a lidar scanner on any other printer? Idk about the flow calibration, but it seems to make a difference with the secondary bed leveling it does. And pretty cool that it can detect a bad first layer (although I've only had a bad first layer with wet nylon).
I just got a bambu lab x1 carbon as well. After watching this video I was afraid mine would have these issues as well. I haven't printed much. I printed the scraper and a part I designed myself. As far as I can tell my printer has no ringing whatsoever. That I have noticed so far. Flat sides after corners seem perfectly smooth. I read some comment somewhere else, that the chips? Or whatever does the vibration compensation are often faulty, it was some guy that had built Voron printers. I think he said 1/10 of those chips or whatever are faulty. So if Bambu labs do no quality control on them I guess 1/10 of their printers are faulty as well when it comes to this ringing issue.
Great info! Have a P1P in route and it will be my speed printer, if I want something really dialed in for quality then I have 2 Prusas. From what I see on youtube videos these printers have HUGE potential that can be unlocked with software. The only annoying parts is the Prusa with 0.6 nozzle isn't slow with the right slicing parameters, guess I just wanted a new toy that can print multi material.
Just discovered your Chanel, really enjoyed this video. I do own a X1C, but not my 1st printer. I agree that it would be nice to have a quality profile. I like speed for prototyping, but a quality profile would be great for final product 👍👍
Honestly I’m kinda surprised there haven’t been more issues with the x1c. I specifically held off on ordering because I thought after a few months there would be thousands of major issues. And many people that have these machines are using them hard. I have seen some issues relating to ringing, some seem to be related to perhaps a certain batch of printers but most have been resolved or have some resolution. I expect that there will be some printers with hardware issues, and being a new printer, from a new company, with “new” features there will be a portion of units with faulty parts when you consider all of the above with the pitfalls of manufacturing in general. One issue I have is proprietary slicer, you have to use their slicer. But I’m sure someone, likely multiple people, are figuring out a hack to use their favorite flavor of slicer. And it’s likely, as more printers gain newer features and speed more slicers may become compatible. So far I’ve seen nothing that would deter me from buying one. Matter of fact I’m likely going to buy an x1c and a p1p this year. The plan is after the first quarter, but for sure before the end of the year.
I think there are 2 answers to your question: 1. As of today there is no 3D printing without a technical practiced operator who is capable of reading instructions, changing parts and is willing (!) to gain knowledge in 3D printing (not everyone is or wants to put the time in)! Without such a person a new printer works and is used till the first real problems/ wear arrive. 2. In the future there should be repair centres, where you can bring (in big cities) or send your machine to get it fixed! Otherwise the trend or "cheap Ender machines" goes much further where someone buys a new printer for like 120 bucks just because he is not able (or does not want to invest the time) to fix the one, he already has. That would create a huge technology scrap problem. => For a good repairability it would be beneficial if companies agree on some standard parts which are good to get and limit the amount of spare parts a repair service would need ... which is kinda the idea of self build printers with standard parts and goes against what Bambu Lab, Ultimaker and the other proprietary 3D printer companies try to establish. The next step for a company like Bambu Lab would be to make cheap a Voron 2.4 clone for like 800 bucks (like the P1P) but with standard parts (that could wear out in like 5 years of usage) for a better repairability.
I regretted getting my voron when I first saw this thing. But the issues and needing parts you can only get from them has made me glad I went with a voron.
For folks willing and able to build and maintain a Voron, it’s probably still the better bet of a machine. I’ll discuss it when I finally do my “6 months later” review soon, but I still like my Vorons personally.
I spent many hours building my prusa Mk3s+. Returning it to get this lol. I can handle a little fix. I mean for petes sake I had to build my whole hot end/ extruder/ printer lol. I feel confident enough to tear this down to fix a part now
I am having the same problem with the main board fan and only a dozen hours on the machine...I am going to replace it with a noctua. The possibility that thermal runaway is not engaged is scary!
A ton of answers I was wanting regarding the X1 Carbon! Nothing is perfect, and up to this point, all i’ve seen was the 100% positive reviews. yours is not negative at all. it simply sheds light in the “real” X1 and brings it back down to earth. I’ve been planning on getting once once they “dial” in the product. They do appear to be doing so. Looks excellent! I am still on the fence regarding the proprietary components and software. I would not want to end up with a brick if the company goes belly up as so many tech innovation companies have over the years. Does anyone have any thoughts on the brick situation if Bambu Lab were to fail? Would the X1 continue to function?
The CEO has said that everything would go open source in the event that the company went under. So yeah, that's great, but because the design is so integrated, who knows if you could get boards made to repair the printer. Or how about those custom ribbon cables. It's a first gen machine from a new company run by guys that should have known better.
Could the difference be running the vibration calibration a couple of times maybe? A few runs may help the machine approach maximum benefit from the process. My X1C beats every other printer I have ever had (4) in print quality and reliability. I'm not complaining.
Well when i bought my first printer 5+ years ago, low reliability was a consideration. So what i did was order one purely as a parts kit so i would internalise how everything goes together, how it must feel, what things do, 10 hour assembly is a bonding experience. A year later i saw people buying mostly-preassembled Creality printers and decent clones like by Geeetech and then swearing them up and down and throwing them out the windows, because they don't understand what's wrong with them, so much angry screaming. And it's not like there's a lot fundamentally wrong with these machines, they're OK, you just find one niggle at a time, something that was OK and went wrong, and fix it. Though i've done laptop and digital camera repair so there's little that could scare me.
I just found out about this machine on Friday. And while on paper, it is the next best thing since Betty White...it reminds me of Slowforge...err...Glowforge. Let me explain. I primarily do laser engraving...I dabble in 3D printing for an FRC robotics team...so I own 2 Prusa's Mk3s+. My first laser was a Glowforge. All the software to run it is in the cloud. Same as this. IF either goes under for whatever reason...you basically have a paperweight. UNLESS you can jailbreak it. For what it offers...it seems like a nice system. The cost of everything on this is less than building the Prusa (fully built from Prusa) to these specs...minus the LIDAR. IF they didn't offer their own slicer (cloud based)...I wouldn't hesitate on getting one...even with the thermal issue you experienced. People may say I am a newbie and I have no idea what I am talking about...and they may be right. I will stand by it. The more complex a system is, the easier it is to fail. And if one keeps everything proprietary, if it does fail, well welcome to the world of paper weights. Keep up the great work...I hope they discover the reason for the runaway...and improve the shutdown time to save future machines.
Hmm as far as I can tell the software to run the x1 is not "in the cloud" at least not if you print using an SD card, maybe not with wifi either. I donno, could be I suppose.
That rounding of corners, is imput shaper, thats how it get away with less ghosting less hard corners. thats why tunign imput shaper yourself can get you the sharp corners.
Quite likely true, which there is zero way (currently known) to tune it on this machine. Which is hwy I said that Bambu should offere a quality Preset that has a reduced Vibration Compensation setting if they aren't going to allow us to tune it ourselves. (I also hinted that I'd like them to let us tune it ourselves in text on the screen at the same time.)
@@MandicReally Depending on how the shaper is implemented, it might just work to use a lower speed, and since you can get many corners to occur at lower speed by lowering the acceleration, maybe try that strategy first.
In general I think your argument is right. It's a lot like people should buy PC's and not Apple laptops due to the complexity and non existent local help if they have a problem. I'm certainly no expert on the matter but I think of the Bambu X-1 Carbon is more a mid tier printer and not at all like say an Ender 3, which by the way some people would find intimidating doing repairs as well.
Thank you for tinkering with the X1C. I have heard of the issue that you had with the connector on the daughter board. I believe that is actually one of the design changes for the P1P. I will see if I can find a source for that.
I have heard from some folks who have a more Direct line to Bambu that is the case. I know the P1P uses different hardware that seems to be updated for these reasons. Leaves me mildly concerned about the long term support of this initial design honestly, but only time will tell.
I don’t think I would have felt comfortable handling it if it was my first machine, nor would I have recognized the thermal runaway. Now I would but then? Nah. I am glad you brought this up…if it even helps one person new to 3D printing learn what they don’t know so they can learn before they throw up their hands and give up or experience (knock on wood that it won’t happen) thermal runaway on an unmonitored print.
I have an Ender and have more or less ripped it apart completely and reassembled it a bunch of times out of necessity to fix problems, upgrade, mod and troubleshoot. Idk if I’d be comfortable doing that with the X1C, It looks to be right on the border of what I’d be comfortable fixing myself, mostly because of the ribbon cables, those stupid things are way to fragile. Completely agree that this looks more like a laptop than a desktop in terms of repairs and working on it. Anyways, that stupid Ender broke completely so I went ahead and ordered an X1C, seems to be a much more reliable printer with fewer issues, and less need for repairs and non cosmetic mods and upgrades. Might still add a hepa filter and some COB led strips
Best printer I've ever had (PETG) but..... it is quirky. It's been sorta pleasant figuring it out but now it's getting old fast. I'm completely on-board with new profiles for best quality over speed. I would like to "dial it down" from highest quality to find my own balance on the time required. I'm not always in the mood to tinker and tweak even though I enjoy it. Sometimes I would just rather have the perfect part for the time spent. I have a new problem that doesn't seem to be in the database yet. My X1 is telling me calibration results are too different from previous calibration and that I need to clean the carbon rod? Also, since I replaced the print surface with the ones they sent it doesn't recognize the bed anymore and I have to be there to override and continue print. Another also is I had ordered and received new hot ends in 4 & 6 and when I replaced them they didn't read ambient temp and wouldn't heat up. I put the original back in and have been continuing to print with it but can't do anything other than open a ticket that there is no category for. First time listener - just subscribed. ;)
Your comments about the slicer settings. This is a general slicer idea I had, wonder if it has any merit? Slicers have profiles for layer height typically which is often draft>fine etc. They adjust some settings but mostly the number of layers for top/bottom as a result. I was thinking, a useful thing would be to have some sort of slider option or maybe shape similar to the way colour gradients can be picked. You would have extremes for strength, quality, accuracy, speed (maybe)... you get the idea hopefully.... At the extremes you end up with things like lots of walls, high infill etc. or speeds adjusted to ensure accuracy and quality. This way you can quickly choose the priorities for the part and it adjusts all the settings to get the right mix. Experienced users do this all the time or create profiles etc but for adoption and ease I think this approach could work well a lot of the time. Anyway, that's my idea. I'd also like hole detection and it adds more walls/infill in those areas.
My x1 carbon broke the same day I received it, did a calibration print that crashed and now the printer says can’t resume previous job. Right know I have a $2000 paper weight
Hey, you are right. This is not a machine for beginner. There are to many point. It is not push the button and go. No 3d Printer is at the beginnkng push the button and go. I have experience for two years now, i got several printer, ready or built on on my own. But my Voron 2.4. will not be ready, xy core is different
In terms of comparing the print of the X1 vs the Voron. I think the crisp corners are a result of improperly tuned pressure advance, leading to a very small amount of overextruded material in places where the print head had to change directions rapidly.
Are you saying the Voron overextruded? Because PA hasn’t been tuned so I’m inclined to agree. That said the crisp corners are how the part is designed and intended to be, so round smooth ones off the X-1 simply are not correct.
@@MandicReally It's not overextrusion, the extruder doesn't slow down enough when the print head decelerates, and therefore the material flows a bit more in corners. Corners and small details will be smoothed out if the PA value is too high though. It's basically impossible to find a balanced PA value. And if you're printing really fast, the pressure in the hotend gets high and the printer has to compensate more. Would be interesting if there was a setting for fine adjustment in the slicer.
@@robertgcode965 there isn’t in standard Bambu Studio. The “Soft Fever” fork has added PA (LA) adjustment and tuning models for testing and calibrating. I’ve tried manually tuning Linear Advance on the X-1 and my findings don’t support the corner rounding being flow related (in that way anyway). Adjusted Linear Advance settings became quickly evident as underextrusion at the end of lines or blobs on surface but made no change to the corner rounding. It’s been a bit since I did that testing so maybe I’ll revisit it sometime soon.
0:55 what's nice about ptc heaters like the one in the bambu htoend, is that they're hardware limited to 300c. The power decreases the closer you get to 300c, so it is impossible to actually exceed that temp, no matter how much you try. The PLA might boil and smoke, but you wont be melting the heat block.
Could you point me to where you’ve found that temperature limit specification? Heater elements can vary by design so I’m just curious to have any hard data available. The way you describe it is arguably a matter of “working by design” where failed parts don’t necessarily conform to design. A short has potential to change things outside of spec and cause hot spots or spikes that could get higher. Anytime you are working with electrical and heater components they have the potential to fail outside of their intended design.
Bambu's answer: "The HOTEND can only reach a maximum temperature of around 400 C...", what means the heater alone can reach higher temps, and it is probably not a PTC heater. For some reason they don't use PTC acronym anywhere. PS, 1. ceramic doesn't means PTC, 2. resistive wire also has a Positive Thermal Coefficient.
This one looks similar to these used in bambu: (search "MCH heater" for images) MCH is the abbreviation of Metal Ceramics Heater, which means metal ceramic heating element. MCH refers to a ceramic heating body formed by printing metal tungsten or molybdenum-manganese paste on a ceramic casting blank, hot pressing and laminating, and then sintering ceramic and metal together under the protection of 1600 ℃ hydrogen atmosphere. Corrosion, high temperature resistance, long life, high efficiency and energy saving, uniform temperature, good thermal conductivity, fast thermal compensation speed, etc.
The reason you're seeing differences in the corners is because of the lack of input shaping on your 2.4 prints. Those corners are filleted, they shouldn't bump out they they are.
I have been 3d printing for a little over a year now so i am still fairly new and just had the 'b' motor die in my X1C. Took about 3 weeks to get a replacement and i gotta say if i was completely new to 3d printing there is no way i would have done that replacement.
I think the point about serviceability makes sense. I think they probably thought "We can charge 100 bucks more and put more effort into a more frustration free repair experience or cut 100 off the price to fight prusa", and maybe the wrong decision from a new brand perspective. I mean maybe its not, and maybe people really care about getting the price down more because they dont feel its likely to happen to them, but just look at how much adoration prusa gets just for having fast responses from support. They dont even do the whole free shipping both ways for them to work on it for you. I think even just hiring fast support would probably help the brand a lot. That all being said, you compare repairing a prusa to this, and well, while their support is faster, youd have to do the same thing. Board out, board in. To me, as long as its not a multi hour process and no soldering is involved, while it would be better to maybe offer something like Apple Care or Bambu Care where they have certified professionals do it, and handle both shipping labels, I think its all about the same. I keep mentioning prusa for a reason by the way, because its important to remember what this is competing with, because if this process is imperfect (which it is) but the other processes are also imperfect (which they are) then its kinda a wash, but you still wish there was the option.
My points about support and repair are mor to the point that, 3D Printing will always have that. Every single machine ever produced will require some level of technical maintenance and repair. No matter who makes it, that is the case. I didn’t like working on my Prusa Mk3, I felt that also was designed a bit over complicated and not with repair as a forethought. That’s kind of my point though. Someone else commented maybe repair shops are in our future. I know for a fact Printed Solid used to offer that for folks on a range of machines. Maybe it is something in our future for those who don’t have the time or knowledge to handle it.
@@MandicReally I actually technically have at least one shop I can drive too and multiple in my country (Canada) that offer 3d printer repair services, so I think its not too much of a stretch for printer companies to just create programs for them to make the repair experience so easy it fixes the problem of user intimidation. I think its just up to consumer aimed printers not sorting this out yet. I know for sure Stratasys does better..... they also have single multiple dollar build surfaces though, so not the same, but I guess my point is I think its possible. Heck, actually, I think all it would take, is Bambulab allowing these repair shops to stock niche parts ahead of time, and sort ut the shipping labels for people. They could charge an extra 50 or 100 when you buy the printer and guarantee easy repairs for 2 - 3 years or so. So yea, while I think 3d printing will always have that, a lot of appliances do, but usually there is some type of extended warranty or option available to alleviate that and I dont see any reason printers cant have that too.
I just got my x1c. Im attempting to print threads and getting much lower quality than my flashforge adventurer 3 lol. So its definitely a finicky machine that doesn't just work amazing out of the box.
Thanks. I just had to disassemble my extruder to get some 30D TPU out and it wasn't very fun. If you like to dig into things, could you look for a JTAG interface in there? I'd love to see what this firmware is doing. I'm quite certain it runs Linux, but what they have borrowed from other places, I have no idea about ;)
I would have been able to swap those components if it was my first printer, but that's only because I've done that kind of thing before (laptop disassembly for instance). Still that extreme amount of integration tells me this is not made to be maintained with ease. Given that they're using linear bearings, I'm willing the bet that a lot of the noise is coming from them and they probably should be flushed and regreased. Bambu says you just clean the rails and that they're not serviceable, but anyone who has a printer running them KNOWS they need to be serviced periodically (Prusa). The black box approach to tuning is also going to bite them I think. As you've already noticed, it overly smooths corners, which could be problematic if you need those details. Klipper can do the exact same thing (surprise surprise, it's probably the same code), but most people don't let it do it automatically because of these exact issues. Also, it's 2023 and there's still printers with thermal runaway?! Every reviewer needs to dig into this RIGHT NOW. Thermal runaway is 100% unacceptable, full stop.
The toolhead uses bushing, not bearings, so there is no greasing. They are self lubricating and the cleaning of the rails is just removing build up from the self lubrication. This does mean they will eventually wear out, but so do linear bearings.
@@MandicReally looks like they only use bushings on the carbon rods, at least on their maintenance page. So the P1P would have those on the tool head as well as the Y axis that the X1C does. I'd be curious to see if they're using genuine Igus bushings on the carbon.
This really shows the biggest weaknesses of this machine and its proprietary ecosystem. That much complexity will foster failure. Doesn't matter how good the design the more complexity and nearer to the heat source those electronics are the more failures will occur. My printer's thermal runaway would have kicked off seconds into that issue... that is a fire waiting to happen. For some this machine is sensible, especially for multi color prints, but for me it is a pass for now. Competition may bring better options from other manufactures in the coming years.
Sounds like the Prusa XL will be complex too though (not that you said anything about the Prusa XL). Probably more complex, what makes the x1 complex other than the lidar and AMS anyway. That toolhead changer and heated bed consisting of probably multiple heating elements and sensors sound even worse when it comes to complexity. So doubtful the Prusa XL will be any more reliable.
If I go back to when I got my very first 3d printer (Voxelab Aquila right when it first came out) I can tell you that HELL no I would not have been able to diagnose or repair what you experienced! I was struggling to get my prints to stick to the bed at all, let alone printing, let alone printing *well*.
I know this is an older video, but what slicer did you use to print the model with your Voron? I know I see a big difference when using Cura vs PrusaSlicer vs Simplify3D vs Canvas (for Palette 2 pro). But, I also know that i don't have every setting the same in all of these slicers. My point is that maybe that's also the case with why you see a difference. Can you use the same slicer for all the printers and see how they look then?
Wish I knew about you before. I knew I wasn't crazy that the ringing was a mechanical issue and none of what people and bambu was recommending was fixing it. Also, where did you get the new PCB?
Personally, I think someone new to 3d printing should start off with a much cheaper Ender 3 or a clone to 1) Understand how 3d printers work 2) Be able to diagnose/repair issues they come across 3) Learn about mods, their benefits, downsides, etc and 4) To determine if they even like or have a need/want to 3d print
Sure that makes it easier on fixing some things, but on the other side, a lot of people buy a car and start driving it and if there is a problem, they call for help. That is ok, because not everyone wants to repair a car. I started with an Ender 3 and modded that thing, but that didn’t help me with my problems i had so far with my X1. The ender helped me more with my prusa, what still delivers better quality than the X1 and if i print small parts, the prusa is faster, because the starting process of the X1 is just crazy.
As someone who has multiple fdm and msla printers I disagree strongly. The main reason why is because I have had multiple friends I have recommended this exact same thing and they just wanted to print. It killed the entire experience for them and then I went over and from start to finish fixed the problem sometimes we had to replace parts right out of the gate. Could this happen on an x1 oh yes. But so far it seems like their support is responsive for issues seen. I really feel like the best option is whatever excites whoever is buying it.
I would say to get real use out a 3d printer you need to have CAD skills. Printing other people's designs is great but being able to custom design parts opens up a whole new world of possibilities.
My impression of the corners on the part printed on the Voron is that they seem worse to me, not better, but I haven't seen the model to actually know what it's supposed to look like. The Voron print reminds me of over-sharpening on TVs.
The Voron does have some extrusion issues at the corner, but the model IS sharp. It should not have any rounding of the corners. At least no more than extrusion requires.
Washing machines have parts that wear out too, and could be just as daunting as this to repair - non-technical people are fine with it though, because you can find a handyman to repair it. It's a bit of a chicken and egg situation, but if 3d printers keep getting more common then we can expect to see people starting businesses repairing them (like how phone repair shops sprung up)
Valid and a market that may be lacking right now. Could be a great idea for Makerspaces. Offer repair services and / or classes on repair and troubleshooting. 👌🏻
This is kinda a good point actually. I also feel the type of person to buy this at least has access to someone who is comfortable enough to follow instructions on repairs. I also know that there exist 3d printer repair services already, so if Bambulab got a certified Bambu repair program going that would do a lot to make people comfortable. Something like Apple Care where you pay more upfront but you get a no panels removed, shipping paid both ways magic fix service within a week.
The CTC replicator toolhead was much simpler in construction than Bambu, it only consisted of a stepper motor, guide wheel, spring, heater, thermistor and nozzle. That being said I could take on this repair quite easily, would it be a pain in the butt having small parts, screws and delicate connectors, sure, but not impossible.
Well... my first thing I did on my first printer (ender 3 pro) was to upgrade to a big tree tech board, program it, and then spend a week trying to program the bltouch. I've never wanted to throw my computer out a window so many times
My initial thought seeing the title is maybe you had a review unit which did have some parts fixes. But then I also joked last night wait until people have to start doing maintenance on these. A printer is a printer.
Mine is a Kickstarter unit that I purchased. So it’s probably an early production run unit. The toolhead PCB and thermistor connection in particular seem to be one pain point they’ve improved over time.
Just got into 3d printing and really glad I missed alot of the beta everything. Come to the conclusion that 3d printing is actually 2d printing in layers. The real 3d printing will be 5 axis printing. That will be a game changer.
I have been trying to slow mine down for better over hangs the six fan I had been giving me a head ace. Only have reguler pla from zyltech and htpla the htpla has been a paint 😅
After my Shapeoko experience there's little chance I could support a machine like this. (nothing against Shapeoko's) You'll get support for this machine to the point it's successor has launched and then spare parts will run dry. The Shapeoko was at least an semi-open design so I had a local laser cutter cut me new endplates that Carbide3D could no longer source for their 2 year old machine. That's not something that's being offered here in terms of an open design. Voron seems to be the right way to go, standardize some open designs, that way you're not stuck with a broken machine in 2 years and it's either hundreds or unobtanium to fix trivial problems. You get options. Ender wise, I've got a local store carrying parts, while I might not get a direct reply from Creality, the market is flooded with parts, they have the supply chain figured out and we have great community support. Anycubic's actually been really good at responding to service requests, though honoring their warranties are another issue.
@@LilApe EOL support. Great machines. My comment addresses the issue in short. They no longer supplied endplates for the gantry. I preordered a Shapoko 3, waited a year? Got the unit, had EMF issues, they replaced my PCB. Then they released the XL and XXL upgrade. So I bought the upgrade. This left me with remnants of an old machine, but not enough to rebuild it into a second. Then they release a Z upgrade. So I bought that, at the same time I asked for Endplates so I could take my current Z, buy some steppers, and rebuild the old smaller machine collecting dust. That's when they told me they don't supply those parts because they moved onto the Shapeoko Pro/4? Luckily the Shapeoko design is sem-open (custom extrusions), so I took the endplate design into Lightburn managed to get a local shop to laser me out some new endplates. I powder coated them in the garage and rebuilt the old machine. Now I have both machines S3 laser and S3XXL router running. You're just at the mercy of the manufacturer once you start getting into custom machines/parts. Carbide was reasonably good to me, but they move onto new products so quick that you could be left in the cold sooner than you think.
Hmm 450hrs seems to be quite a little time I have almost double that on my v2.4 with no repairs. Except changing carbon. Which I have my Voron setup to tell me when to do so. Also I agree that this repair is also much more involved then someone new would be able to do easy. I think people where hoping but this isn’t 2d printer level yet. Maybe soon there will be dedicated 3d printer repair people. Ultimately if your new join a discord and make a friend local that can help when you need it.
the carbon filter aspect, do you have pictures, video footage of what the inside pocket of the carbon filter area is like? I have a P1P I want to convert to the P1S and can't find what kind of contraption/addition was added to the inside to rest the carbon filter on (through the door on the inside of the unit).. and wondered if you know, if you have footage on it? I will keep looking, haven't found that info yet.
They are selling a P1S upgrade kit: shrsl.com/45eg0 (affiliate link) That said, I don’t have any information about that part in particular. I’d have to dig deep but I know for a fact I’ve never filmed that in depth so it would almost certainly be a fruitless effort. I can try and look at my P1P when I get it out of the box, but I also don’t know when I’ll have time for that.
@@MandicReally I just accidently screwed up and erased my message I think. The "box" or the spot the fan is attached to, I DO NOT BELIEVE is in the P1P at all. I had mine apart, was super tired because I did a lot of upgrades to it last night, I don't remember it. I will take it apart again and do some measurements. From your video it looked like the box was 5x8 and a few inches deep, I know some on printables have made refill boxes for theirs.. I will get that and print it also. trying to DIY as much as I can, already had the door (front) and lid from an X1 so I am nearly there. Appreciate you getting back to me bro!
Bambu has put out a statement about Thermal Runaway Protection, you can find it here: blog.bambulab.com/thermal-runaway/
3 minutes before cut off, at a max of 400c? Sounds like a fire hazard to me. PLA ignites at 388c. Bambu lab is in damage control and making excuses for their 3 min timer it seems, rather than just admitting their negligence. Not surprised that some youtubers are dropping support for bambu lab.
"we set the protection to 3 minutes to avoid false alarms ruining a print."
Yeah..I could care less about ruining a print, when it means their is a very potential fire hazard and risk of burning a house down.
@LilApe right. I ordered a p1p a few days ago and now I'm somewhat worried that they won't fix it, and since the firmware isn't open source I can't do it myself. 30 seconds maximum for thermal runaway, no reason they had to make it 3 minutes
@@LilApe Yeah well if the temperature is dropping hard when heater is high that's a bad sign anyway, that doesn't speak for the print coming out good either! And if you're willing to salvage a bad print, you might as well reprint just the top from some layer upwards, so there isn't a lot of value in semi rescuing a print. Either way safety takes precedence, some aborted prints are fully acceptable.
I'm thinking the real reason is that they wanted to reduce the support workload, they don't necessarily want people calling them and filing tickets before they're on fire.
@@LilApe well said i agree with that there are too many issues with this printer what are they waiting for someone to die from a housefire before they recall all there printers, they should have sorted these issues out before they sold them rather than sell them then iron the problems out from users complaining, wait and see, i would never leave this printer printing alone as its to dangerous, there are other users on RUclips having nothing but issues as well, look aT jessies channel he has had nothing but issues and has had more than one of these
@@LilApe yes i totaly agreee with the comment, this printer should have never hit the market untill it was working and safe to do so, witch is totaly not the case, every video i have seen for this printer there is something wrong with it, why should you have to repair it after just a couple of weeks owning it especialley for the price, its an accident waiting to happen, and heaven ferbid it does not burn someones house down especialley if they have children
Love your videos man. I'm waiting on your full final review of the x1. I just purchased mine should be here Thursday. Keep up the good work. It's people like you that help small side businesses like mine running smooth. Thank you.
I’ve been researching for a few years before I went with Bambu P1P as my first printer. I can say within those years it seems every printer you purchase you will need to tinker with, replacing parts and problem solving.
If anyone feels that tinkering with this is overwhelming then this hobby isn’t for that person.
For me I tinker with vehicles, computers, etc.. So I knew what I was getting into and ready for the challenge.
Thanks for the video share.
Loads of interesting takes on the X1, thanks for that interesting video!
The support is quick in responding and in sending spares, BUT: You have to repair it on your own. This will scare the hell out of many people - like you say.
The (missing?!) thermal run-a-way protection is worrying! Need to try that. And damn: You have a LOT of problems on your's! My two X1 (early demo and kickstarter pledge) are mostly VERY reliable (except for occasional clogs). For higher quality prints I made a 75% profile: All speeds/accelerations scaled down to 75% - print time isn't affected that much, as there are other bottle necks most of the time (slow downs for overhangs/cooling). Nevertheless: Fully agreed, Bambu did/does a very good job in comparison, but they're/we're not 100% "there", yet - like on photo-copiers or other mass produces machines - concerning after-sales and concerning the perfect tuning of the machines/settings.
but which printer you dont have to repair on yourself? if i look at the daily growing bambu wiki with pics and videos its way easier to repair than any other printer. no self printing parts that doesnt fit(lose or too tight)
@@IncredibleCisco Thing is: Ease of use out of the box and fire-and-forget printing is Bambu Labs main advertisement. This issue threatens their USP ...
@@IncredibleCisco There is another company with excelent support, shop and instructions: Prusa! That is THE reason, why it is more often recommended although much more expensive than a Ender 3 clone. For the problem with self printed parts that does not fit there could be the alternative to order that parts, maybe even extruded parts which does fit. So ... there is room for improvement!
"but which printer you dont have to repair on yourself?" ... Either the one which you just have to send to a repair shop of the company in your country like there are from many smartphone companies OR the "professional" printer for a couple of thousands more where you ring up the support and a technician comes for repair.
So .. there are solutions, but none of them where you buy a product one time and be forever happy with it.
It would be interesting to know how many hours and materials (because of temperatures) you printed. I don't know if Bambu Lab has a maintenance plan for it's machines but maybe after 300/ 400 hours some kind of maintenance would be clever. This could also include some tests (to see if safety measures are still in tact) and to check if something got loose.
I just went to their website and haven't found replacement boards for print heads. It seems that they have only a subset of parts that you can buy right now (don't know about the future). When buying printer, I would like to get all the parts that can potentially break during the life of the printer right away, like fans nozzles, cables, etc. If the printer will work on-and-off for 10 years printing some spare parts and organizers for the workshop, then it should have all the spare parts available for the whole work duration.
Bambu Lab is a new company, and I've seen time and time again, when companies dropped support for their best selling devices, or for a little bit older models.
Yeah I see what you mean.
If they decide to release a new model they have every reason to make the old ones impossible to repair.
We're at their mercy in this situation. Just be thankful that there are aftermarket parts... Unless they decide to patent all the electronics, close source it and make them impossible to reverse engineer so aftermarket parts cannot exist.
Guess we will just have to wait and see. But if we have learnt anything from Apple, the above seems likely.
There is a reason I never buy a gen 1 car from a new company. Same reason I will wait till there is a bambu xl. They did their homework but the cult following is both cringe and worrying considering no one has even had one a year. I see people shilling this machine that don't even own one and have never even seen one. I appreciate your honest experience of using the machine.
I get a feeling this machine was designed with two very specific goals in mind;
1) A specific speed
2) A specific cost
Everything else has had to abide by those goals. I still kind of want one to play with, but I'd rather buy another voron personally.
But I *really* do like that they've made a machine significantly better then most of the run-of-the-mill creality and ender 3 clones, able to give people a taste of what higher end machines can do at a much lower bar of entry. And this whole market needs some disruption, been stagnant for way too long in the comercial consumer sphere!
Have you not described every single non voron?
These machines rock. Buy one.
@@karlmadsen3179no on x1c
I am surprised by how many connectors there are in that toolhead, but the laptop to desktop comparison is spot on. It's less daunting to work on a (non micro itx) desktop because you're only competing with the connectors and not the just-enough cable runs or delicate ribbon cables like you are on a laptop. I'm comfortable with that stuff and still hate ribbon cables. I've torched 3 monitors over the years because of the fragility and lack of physical resistance to let you know you're tugging one.
hi just here to say I had the exact same problem across multiple printers, and I was stalked and harassed by the staff and nobody believed me about the artifacting. I was told that I was a scammer who wanted free printers and then they continued to leak information about myself to people in the Discord. I had to go to my bank and do a chargeback because I was stuck with three dogshit, artifacting printers with staff who didn't want to do anything other than ask me if i cleaned the rails 4 times flipped it all the angles in the world all the temps all the speeds all the accelerations all the jerks and that I was the underlying problem to everything since its what all the prints had in common.
They even made this conspiracy theory that every person in the Discord who complained was me on a different accounts, that I socially engineered people for hundreds of hours to get free stuff, that i was mentally ill (yes, the representative of bambu lab said that to me), honestly great stuff really love how I am being treated after being spending thousands of dollars.
I spent over 11 weeks, every single day, atleast 400 dollars in fillament trying to fix their printers for them. It was a waste of time, they aren't good machines. The company is just a bunch of random people with a shell headquarters in Texas with no track record of delivering quality products to market.
I also had one DOA system that they forced me to open day one and the thing was horrible to take apart,. The motor died so the thing would just slam the head into the side of the chasis and damage itself LOL, then they told us to superglue our cracking ams systems. Since then, I went and bought three ankermake printers and they've all worked beautifully. I'm still down 4500 dollars due to bambu lab and hope my bank will help me sort it out, as they seem they are doing.
Shout out to Will, Larry V and also Hedgehog if you see this, you are terrible people and i hope you get fired.
Thank you for the updates and just the honest perception. 3d printing you have to be prepared to tinker! You cannot be scared to take the cover off and see what makes it tick so to speak. If you are not prepared to do that you are going to be pulling your hair out. 3d printing is a hobby nested inside of another hobby that work together. Fantastic video.
I have learned that the hard way with my ender 3 that i am learning how to mod myself. My next hurdle is going to be replacing fans. I feel confident because of what i have done so far, but it took alot to take that first step into tinkering.
@Joshua Joly the fans are the easy mod! Make sure you buy the right ones the mod goes really easy.
And all the while you are tinkering you are learning invaluable practical skills!
It's like the perfect hobby
Imo those print look pretty darn good. Seems to be a bit of oozing happening on layer shifts (not retracting enough?). The sharpness of the edges of those voron prints seems to be printing artifacts (overextruding on corners)
I'm at 706 in your video, and I'm blown away by where you're going with this review. I'd like to add that I bought a BIQU Hurakan in early December of 2022, and now, on February 24, 2023, it's in pieces on my work bench while I wait for an S-load of parts to "fix" it. Good for you! My X1 Carbon is coming tomorrow. I bought it because it's "plug and play." Wish I'd seen your video (this video) before I made my purchase. Providing customer support on such a complicated machine is going to eat Bamboo Labs profits like popcorn at a first run of The Matrix.
i think you are right about most of your points on repairs by first timers...well-founded questions, love your videos keep it up
for the MB fan use noctua 5v pwm version with 4 cables. working flawless with me. next video dont forget to place the wire diagram:
ground - Dark Gray (Next to Black)-> Black color cable on noctua
5v- Black -> Yellow
rpm speed signal - Light Gray (Next to White) -> Green
pwm - White-> Blue
for the chamber fan i have replaced with another model from NMB but just reduce the flow to 40% of the stock fan and open the top lid glass when printing PLA.
Whew, glad you caught it
Although the Bambu range of printers look good on paper for long term use it may not be so bright. As the parts are propriety you could have serious issues in terms of getting replacement parts and what happens when the printer is made obsolete or if the company goes out of business. The Bambu range or printers, the Ultimaker etc are all made to resemble an applicance, the problem is appliances will need servicing or repairs at some stage. These printers are some much more difficult to work on compared to your rep-rap bed slinger type 3D Printers. My first 3D Printer was a Creatbot which is an applicance type 3D Printer, which for the time was great when it worked. When things went wrong and needed to be fixed it was a pain, even changing the nozzle wasn't easy compared to the other 3D Printers I have had since.
Ultimaker may resemble an appliance, but they're totally open source and getting replacement parts is easy because of it.
I get excellent results on the X1 carbon, however I never use the recommended speed settings. I essentially cut them in half, which is still significantly higher than most other printers. The first layer I always run around 50-60 mm/s to ensure that the rest of the print has a solid base. Ever since I've started running at around half the normal speed, things have been great. The stock settings are just way too high for anything other than draft/prototype prints.
I think you have the wrong idea of prusa support. When you contact prusa support, you will get a live person within minutes and they will work with you for as long as it takes to resolve your issue. Replacement parts are easy to get either via prusa or off the shelf. Prusa is the standard for 3D support.
I have the same issue with the mainboard fan. They sent me a replacement as well but I haven't installed it yet. I'm going to wait for your video.
I'm not sure if my issue is the same thing but hoping for some advice. Bear in mind I am VERY new to 3d printing. I was given a very lightly used MP select mini v2 in December and it's been working great up until yesterday. This was the first issue I've had and my first failed print. The nozzle appeared to have grabbed part of the print and was pulling it along as it did more layers. The kapton tape and fiberglass insulation on the heat block had fused to the print and was pulled off the heat block. Luckily I was nearby when this began. While I was standing there watching it I began to smell hot plastic and saw a wisp of smoke. As I was reaching to power it off I saw the temps climb to 330° even though it was set to 215 and had been working perfectly through over 2kg of Duramic PLA+ (recommended print temp of 220). I pulled it apart and checked the hotend over. The PTFE sleeve in the heatbreak was burned at the lowest point and had narrowed to a pin point. I tested the thermistor and it tests out fine and when it was installed it still read the temps and kept updating. The printer just wouldn't stay at the temps I set it to. So I'm not sure if this is thermal runaway due to a bad thermistor or not. The nozzle is discoloured now and definitely cooked. Nothing moves through it now so I'm not even going to try and clean it and I'm waiting for replacements to arrive. I'm happy to replace whatever parts are needed but I don't want to just toss parts a problem without knowing for sure if those parts are the problem.
Any ideas?
X1 definitely still over compensates resonance tuning. Wish we had more control of that by default
On the subject of repairs: I think your dishwasher analogy is still valid. Very few folks are going to be comfortable doing any repairs to a dishwasher if it failed. Or a high-end office printer - I used to fix those for a living and it wasn't super hard but I definitely needed to be taught how when I first started. The difference is that Bambu doesn't yet have the support infrastructure they need to do repairs for clients all around the world. But if you look into the history of things like dishwashers or televisions or even cars, you'll see there's a similar trend - when the technology or equipment is brand new there's a surge of interest, and then a slow-down when the maker's ability to repair in-use items gets overwhelmed, and then the growth of a repair industry and a surge in uptake by the population.
I'm speculating, of course, but I suspect that Bambu has plans for repair/support infrastructure. Obviously folks in denser markets like China, Europe, or the US will get better service than someone like me up in Alberta. But I'd be really surprised if - given how this printer is clearly hoping to hit the office/university/school market - Bambu doesn't at least have a strategy for how they'll deal with repairs. Which doesn't help us all in the interim, but also doesn't change my feeling that this *is* the best first printer for someone who isn't interested in building or modding their machine. Because they seem to be very reliable out of the box and that will get the new user engaged and interested in the "design and build things" side of the hobby. Whereas my incredibly annoying Ender-5 almost drove me right out of using 3d printing as a solution for any of my building projects.
On the subject of mechanical precision: I find it very interesting that your experience is so different. The main thing I print is prop pieces, usually in ABS, that will be sanded and painted in such a way as to no longer seem like a 3d print. And my X1C is orders of magnitude more precise than the Ender-5 I mentioned above. Even with a 0.4mm nozzle, I can print a 3.75" droid that looks just fine sitting on my shelf next to one mass-produced by Hasbro. The prop parts I mentioned take a tenth the time to sand smooth and even a curved or sloping top surface often doesn't need *any* sanding, just a bit of filler primer, if I remembered to iron it. I'm using the Generic ABS filament setting and made my own "quality" print preset - but that was really simple, all I did was start with the 0.12mm layer height, increast the wall loops and top and bottom to 6 each, the infill to 30% for good top coverage, and cut every single speed to half the default. Which seems to be faster than your custom settings. And yeah - with those settings, I'm getting stuff that rivals plasma-cut aluminium for smoothness and precision.
The only thing I can think of that I'm doing different is throwing a blanket on top and a couple of big pieces of foam on the outside between the printer and the wall and shelf risers. I did that for insulation - when it's -40 outside my vented-externally printing room struggles to stay at +10 and I want to keep the printer above +50 while I'm printing, so some extra insulation was needed. But it might be providing a bit of damping? I doubt it, though - that toy I mentioned was printed with the promo PLA long before I attempted ABS. Maybe you just got unlucky, or I got lucky? Or, perhaps, we're working with different standards of perfection - the only thing I really have to compare this machine to is the Ender-5 which wasn't awful but also wasn't awesome.
Wonder if all your insulation had something to do with it.
I've personally seen many people take an instant liking to this printer, both for its ready to go out of the box type of approach and for the ability to change colours, as a first 3D printer I would say its good to establish what to expect from printers, allowing people to chose where people go from there.
Also couldn't agree more about the creality contact, as someone who owned an Ender 3 V2 creality are not at all welcoming to people wanting to get replacement parts.
Thanks for the video! I appreciate you surfacing issues and how you address them. One of the issues I'm seeing, related to ringing or ghosting, are the ripples that match the belt pitch on X/Y. Have you noticed this issue? I think BambuLab is aware and working on it based on the CEO's recent AMA, but I don't know what progress has been made or what the priority is. There's talk in FB Groups and Discord about using Gates belts, changing the smooth idler pulleys to toothed ones, and changing the stepper motors, but doesn't seem like anyone has attempted to do so as yet. Changing the idler pulleys seems like the most difficult though, especially without instructions and looks like the frame may need to be disassembled.
Oh bloody hell, i hoped smooth pulleys would have died already! At least when it comes to machines which are beyond the $200 class.
I understand why manufacturers use them. They are cheaper (several cents for smooth vs. a couple dollars for the toothy), and when the smooth pulley seizes on a garbage shot bearing, and that happens quite a bit, nothing happens, the belt can just keep slipping on it fine. When a toothed pulley seizes, well you're not gonna have a good time, so they better be actually good, and you'd still get a few stray complaints and returns where on smooth ones the issue would go unnoticed.
But it doesn't mean i have to like it!
@@SianaGearz I hope that people will be more vocal about this issue so BambuLab will prioritize a fix. Unfortunately, public callout by those with a larger audience and influence in the community (*cough* @MandicReally) may be the push that's needed to get things going.
So far the only way I've eliminated ringing is turning inner/outer walls down to 1k accels, and run everything else high. The biggest hurdle now is the belt pattern like VFA's, at least for me. The over smoothing is also pretty annoying.
Great video. I hope Bambu steps up their software game, because it's definitely lacking. The hardware is certainly there.
I've dropped acceleration on my "Quality" preset but haven't gone quite that far. I don't hate the ringing and ghosting honestly. I'm just raising the concern about a machine that is meant to be a "Push-Button and Go", "No Tuning Necessary" box, having it. If I could go in and tune that out at my own discretion, I wouldn't care.
The rounded corners I do care about though. That annoys me. Crisp corners is something I've often looked at as defining a good print, and I can't do that here.
@@MandicReally Yeah, with the way things are now, I'd say the "set it and forget it" advertising is a bit of a beginners trap. I've already had a few things happen on my X1C that would greatly confuse a newcomer.
While I have you, can you confirm seam placement ends up being inconsistent between the sliced g-code preview and the finished print when using Bambu studio? I've tried asking around several times and everyone just ignores me like I'm crazy lol.
@@760creations honestly I haven’t paid attention at all. I will now. I primarily use “Random” z seam alignment to spread it out, so I wouldn’t notice that normally. I’ll do some test runs and compare that.
It doesn't look too bad and having the video guide seems very good. However, it is true that a 3D printer is still not a commodity item. Per your analogy, most laptop owners would not disassemble and fix their laptops either. On the other hand, 3D printers have many more moving parts than a laptop, so there is more items that wear over time and may need replacement.
This is a great video and I hope many people will see it.
I don't believe their thermal runaway statement, if your filament boils and the difference is 100°C then it should've turned off a long time ago, no excuses.
Good lord that thermal runaway is super scary
I'm glad I was sitting feet away when it happened so I happened to catch a smell of the burning.
since it's a ptc heater, there's no risk of it getting too hot. 300c is the max, so no metal is going to melt.
@@morbus5726 I'll ask again, where are you getting that 300C number from? The spec on the Bambu Website? Ceramic PTC Heaters are capable of going much hotter than 300C, that is just the spec that Bambu rates this heater to go to. A rating and an intended limit does not account for failure. A short has the potential to bypass an intended limit. A safer design does not mean it is a 100% safe design. E3D even says in their Revo information that it is safer, they don't say it is foolproof.
@@MandicReally i asnwered your question in a previous post. it depends on the resistance of the material used. I also linked a source.
@@morbus5726 ahh, that is why I'm not seeing it. Links are auto-filtered by RUclips's comment filter, I'll go dig it up and approve the message.
oh lord, thermal runaway SHOULD not happen in 2023, it should absolutely not happen on a printer that wants to be high end
As someone who is looking for their first 3D printer in about 8 years (I had access to build and use a Mk0 prusia i3 clone for a year or so back in 2016), one of the things that really drove me away from the hobby was exactly how much tinkering was required. I would spend 90% of my time tinkering and fixing problems, instead of getting decent prints. My time is limited, I don't want to spend it all fixing problems. I'd much rather have a better out of the box experience, even if it means a little more work on repairs. The amount of time this design philosophy saves is so important to making 3D printing accessible. So today as I weigh the various options, I'm drawn more to the X1C and P1P, as opposed to the Prusas and Enders of the market today. The combination of faster print speed, quicker setup, and better out of the box experience, plus the advanced "AI" tech that can help detect and prevent problems from cropping up in the first place is what draws me to the Bambu Labs printers today, even though they cost more than your typical budget printers. It's a blunt way of saying it, but my free time is worth more to me than my money, and these printers are a good compromise between cost and accessibility to me.
So would I prefer an easier repair process? Uh, sure, who wouldn't? But am I willing to give up all the other advantages for it? Not at all.
Honestly, they kept it down to only one (that I saw) ribbon cable, the rest are pretty standard plugs. That's excellent. Way easier to repair than some laptops I've worked on. And the USB-C plug for data/power? Blown away they did that, it's brilliant. Gives you the ability to swap the whole head for something entirely different if they come out with it in the future.
Thanks for the video. I have a Prusa MK3s with the MMU2s and Prusa Mini, as others I'm debating getting rid of the MK3s and maybe the Mini for Bambu. I built the MK3s as a kit, and it works, but since adding the MMU2s to it I've had nothing but issues with. I have no idea where to go to get fixes, so the fact Bambu offers videos on how to fix things is a upgrade in my mind. Again I love Prusa as a company. The printer is probably above my skill level to keep working.
That voron print looks like PA isn't calibrated. That's why looks more defined
I had a problem with my X1C where the nozzle wiper was misaligned. They had me send it in and sent me a replacement. I might be an outlier, but I've been happy with the BL support.
Great video 👌 glad you call out the issues you ran into.
I am curious how these machines age!? Will there be spares in 5 years?
A factor that’s impossible to account for or judge. They’ve released 2 printers and already on the second machine changed parts. Multiple parts of the new P1P are different than the X-1, which raises concerns. It’s the danger of evolution. If you don’t update things you don’t improve, but you run the risk of outdating your own hardware and early adopters.
@@MandicReally That is one of the main reasons I haven't pulled the trigger on an X1C. The P1P already has a different hotend design and looks like certain parts are upgraded over the X1C! The AMS has already gotten some changes as well so these changes make me hesitant on dropping alot of money on a printer that's still getting upgrades along the way. I really think Bambu should've taken an extra month or two for input from RUclipsrs before locking in the mechanical components of the finished product. You're one of the only content creators that has shown some issues with your print quality. Almost every other video I've seen everyone has sung praises to the quality of their parts. I have seen a small group emerge where parts printed slowly begin to show some print defects from the belts at slow speeds. And Bambu basically chalked it up to CoreXY printers not running well at slow speeds. This may be why they don't have a quality profile, in fear of it being actually worse overall.
@@rileyneufeld7001 ...and then you have Prusa and Voron that just allow you t print the changes. Also, CoreXY does just fine at slower speeds, that's exceedingly dumb to say on their part.
Also, the printers ship with white filament that hides all the flaws!
Truly appreciate the less than cloudy perspective. Im in love w my Bambu, even with all of its faults. BTW, my main board fan is also failing!
i had the same problem..... rebooted and pressed into the wires. now it works
The Toolhead PCB seems like it may have problematic connections on early units. Some think the reason the P1P uses a new design is because of this.
My first 3D printer was a Flashforge Finder, which looks "Easier" to fix than the bamboo (it's got a single toolhead board and everything is pretty straightforward under the toolhead's hood), so maybe it's more like building a PC than working on a laptop. Flashforge also is pretty decent at shooting out parts for under warranty printers (and will happily sell you parts for those printers that are out of warranty), but you have to do the repair yourself also. The finder seems easier to work on than the Bambu (three screws and you're looking at everything), but OTOH, The number of times I've had the hot end out (most recently for a faulty thermocouple, but I've done a nozzle change and PTFE Liner swaps too) is annoying, and that's for someone who sort-of-kind-of knew what was going on going in.
so refreshing to hear a pliable review on this hail Mary of a printer. its never ending seeing the start and walkaway concept with this printer. i feel personally it needs a lot more developmental hours and possibly an x2. i know its biult to a pricepoint but i feel they where about 200,000 hrs short of concept with this one
Lol most revolutionary consumer printer in 5 years, smashed all expectations and they missed the mark?
@@scotthancock8225 Literally nothing "revolutionary" about it dude lol. Its just another coreXY printer running klipper that they sold for cheap, using cheap parts. Let me know when bambu lab actually innovated on their own, rather than copying other people's hard work.
I'm still waiting for you to tell me what they actually innovated on from the other video.
@@LilApe The performance in a commercial printer is revolutionary
@@thenamelessone123 It performs no different than a voron from 2 years ago, therefore it's not revolutionary. An I3 printer running klipper runs just as fast and puts out the same quality.
What is ONE thing bambu has done, that no other 3d printer company has, that has resulted in being a game changer?
@Lil Ape I'd say the out-of-box speed and quality is pretty revolutionary. It puts out better quality prints with the standard profile than any of my other printers with tuned profiles. I've also never seen a lidar scanner on any other printer? Idk about the flow calibration, but it seems to make a difference with the secondary bed leveling it does. And pretty cool that it can detect a bad first layer (although I've only had a bad first layer with wet nylon).
I did find slowing the speeds down did improve the quality and reliability, yet it was still producing quicker prints than my bed slingers
I just got a bambu lab x1 carbon as well. After watching this video I was afraid mine would have these issues as well. I haven't printed much. I printed the scraper and a part I designed myself. As far as I can tell my printer has no ringing whatsoever. That I have noticed so far. Flat sides after corners seem perfectly smooth.
I read some comment somewhere else, that the chips? Or whatever does the vibration compensation are often faulty, it was some guy that had built Voron printers. I think he said 1/10 of those chips or whatever are faulty. So if Bambu labs do no quality control on them I guess 1/10 of their printers are faulty as well when it comes to this ringing issue.
Great info! Have a P1P in route and it will be my speed printer, if I want something really dialed in for quality then I have 2 Prusas. From what I see on youtube videos these printers have HUGE potential that can be unlocked with software. The only annoying parts is the Prusa with 0.6 nozzle isn't slow with the right slicing parameters, guess I just wanted a new toy that can print multi material.
Look at the pressure advance. In the voron tuning guides it states that high pressure advance settings can lead to rounded out corners.
^^^ This ^^^
Just discovered your Chanel, really enjoyed this video. I do own a X1C, but not my 1st printer. I agree that it would be nice to have a quality profile. I like speed for prototyping, but a quality profile would be great for final product 👍👍
You can create one, but if you switch from the beginning to the silent mode (50% Speed) you improve already the quality of the prints by a lot.
Honestly I’m kinda surprised there haven’t been more issues with the x1c. I specifically held off on ordering because I thought after a few months there would be thousands of major issues. And many people that have these machines are using them hard. I have seen some issues relating to ringing, some seem to be related to perhaps a certain batch of printers but most have been resolved or have some resolution.
I expect that there will be some printers with hardware issues, and being a new printer, from a new company, with “new” features there will be a portion of units with faulty parts when you consider all of the above with the pitfalls of manufacturing in general.
One issue I have is proprietary slicer, you have to use their slicer. But I’m sure someone, likely multiple people, are figuring out a hack to use their favorite flavor of slicer. And it’s likely, as more printers gain newer features and speed more slicers may become compatible.
So far I’ve seen nothing that would deter me from buying one. Matter of fact I’m likely going to buy an x1c and a p1p this year. The plan is after the first quarter, but for sure before the end of the year.
I think there are 2 answers to your question:
1. As of today there is no 3D printing without a technical practiced operator who is capable of reading instructions, changing parts and is willing (!) to gain knowledge in 3D printing (not everyone is or wants to put the time in)! Without such a person a new printer works and is used till the first real problems/ wear arrive.
2. In the future there should be repair centres, where you can bring (in big cities) or send your machine to get it fixed! Otherwise the trend or "cheap Ender machines" goes much further where someone buys a new printer for like 120 bucks just because he is not able (or does not want to invest the time) to fix the one, he already has. That would create a huge technology scrap problem.
=> For a good repairability it would be beneficial if companies agree on some standard parts which are good to get and limit the amount of spare parts a repair service would need ... which is kinda the idea of self build printers with standard parts and goes against what Bambu Lab, Ultimaker and the other proprietary 3D printer companies try to establish.
The next step for a company like Bambu Lab would be to make cheap a Voron 2.4 clone for like 800 bucks (like the P1P) but with standard parts (that could wear out in like 5 years of usage) for a better repairability.
I regretted getting my voron when I first saw this thing. But the issues and needing parts you can only get from them has made me glad I went with a voron.
For folks willing and able to build and maintain a Voron, it’s probably still the better bet of a machine. I’ll discuss it when I finally do my “6 months later” review soon, but I still like my Vorons personally.
@@MandicReally definitely not a first printer tho. I wonder how many unfinished kits exist.
I spent many hours building my prusa Mk3s+. Returning it to get this lol. I can handle a little fix. I mean for petes sake I had to build my whole hot end/ extruder/ printer lol. I feel confident enough to tear this down to fix a part now
I am having the same problem with the main board fan and only a dozen hours on the machine...I am going to replace it with a noctua. The possibility that thermal runaway is not engaged is scary!
i agree with you 100 percent as for as ppl starting out with a x1
A ton of answers I was wanting regarding the X1 Carbon! Nothing is perfect, and up to this point, all i’ve seen was the 100% positive reviews. yours is not negative at all. it simply sheds light in the “real” X1 and brings it back down to earth. I’ve been planning on getting once once they “dial” in the product. They do appear to be doing so. Looks excellent! I am still on the fence regarding the proprietary components and software. I would not want to end up with a brick if the company goes belly up as so many tech innovation companies have over the years. Does anyone have any thoughts on the brick situation if Bambu Lab were to fail? Would the X1 continue to function?
The CEO has said that everything would go open source in the event that the company went under. So yeah, that's great, but because the design is so integrated, who knows if you could get boards made to repair the printer. Or how about those custom ribbon cables. It's a first gen machine from a new company run by guys that should have known better.
Could the difference be running the vibration calibration a couple of times maybe? A few runs may help the machine approach maximum benefit from the process. My X1C beats every other printer I have ever had (4) in print quality and reliability. I'm not complaining.
Well when i bought my first printer 5+ years ago, low reliability was a consideration. So what i did was order one purely as a parts kit so i would internalise how everything goes together, how it must feel, what things do, 10 hour assembly is a bonding experience. A year later i saw people buying mostly-preassembled Creality printers and decent clones like by Geeetech and then swearing them up and down and throwing them out the windows, because they don't understand what's wrong with them, so much angry screaming. And it's not like there's a lot fundamentally wrong with these machines, they're OK, you just find one niggle at a time, something that was OK and went wrong, and fix it.
Though i've done laptop and digital camera repair so there's little that could scare me.
I just found out about this machine on Friday. And while on paper, it is the next best thing since Betty White...it reminds me of Slowforge...err...Glowforge. Let me explain. I primarily do laser engraving...I dabble in 3D printing for an FRC robotics team...so I own 2 Prusa's Mk3s+. My first laser was a Glowforge. All the software to run it is in the cloud. Same as this. IF either goes under for whatever reason...you basically have a paperweight. UNLESS you can jailbreak it.
For what it offers...it seems like a nice system. The cost of everything on this is less than building the Prusa (fully built from Prusa) to these specs...minus the LIDAR. IF they didn't offer their own slicer (cloud based)...I wouldn't hesitate on getting one...even with the thermal issue you experienced. People may say I am a newbie and I have no idea what I am talking about...and they may be right. I will stand by it. The more complex a system is, the easier it is to fail. And if one keeps everything proprietary, if it does fail, well welcome to the world of paper weights.
Keep up the great work...I hope they discover the reason for the runaway...and improve the shutdown time to save future machines.
Hmm as far as I can tell the software to run the x1 is not "in the cloud" at least not if you print using an SD card, maybe not with wifi either. I donno, could be I suppose.
That rounding of corners, is imput shaper, thats how it get away with less ghosting less hard corners. thats why tunign imput shaper yourself can get you the sharp corners.
Quite likely true, which there is zero way (currently known) to tune it on this machine. Which is hwy I said that Bambu should offere a quality Preset that has a reduced Vibration Compensation setting if they aren't going to allow us to tune it ourselves. (I also hinted that I'd like them to let us tune it ourselves in text on the screen at the same time.)
@@MandicReally Depending on how the shaper is implemented, it might just work to use a lower speed, and since you can get many corners to occur at lower speed by lowering the acceleration, maybe try that strategy first.
Appreciate that outlook. As a printing newbie, this would be a pretty difficult problem to diagnose, let alone repair.
In general I think your argument is right. It's a lot like people should buy PC's and not Apple laptops due to the complexity and non existent local help if they have a problem. I'm certainly no expert on the matter but I think of the Bambu X-1 Carbon is more a mid tier printer and not at all like say an Ender 3, which by the way some people would find intimidating doing repairs as well.
Great video and observations. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Thank you for tinkering with the X1C. I have heard of the issue that you had with the connector on the daughter board. I believe that is actually one of the design changes for the P1P. I will see if I can find a source for that.
I have heard from some folks who have a more Direct line to Bambu that is the case. I know the P1P uses different hardware that seems to be updated for these reasons. Leaves me mildly concerned about the long term support of this initial design honestly, but only time will tell.
I don’t think I would have felt comfortable handling it if it was my first machine, nor would I have recognized the thermal runaway. Now I would but then? Nah.
I am glad you brought this up…if it even helps one person new to 3D printing learn what they don’t know so they can learn before they throw up their hands and give up or experience (knock on wood that it won’t happen) thermal runaway on an unmonitored print.
I have an Ender and have more or less ripped it apart completely and reassembled it a bunch of times out of necessity to fix problems, upgrade, mod and troubleshoot. Idk if I’d be comfortable doing that with the X1C, It looks to be right on the border of what I’d be comfortable fixing myself, mostly because of the ribbon cables, those stupid things are way to fragile. Completely agree that this looks more like a laptop than a desktop in terms of repairs and working on it. Anyways, that stupid Ender broke completely so I went ahead and ordered an X1C, seems to be a much more reliable printer with fewer issues, and less need for repairs and non cosmetic mods and upgrades. Might still add a hepa filter and some COB led strips
Best printer I've ever had (PETG) but..... it is quirky. It's been sorta pleasant figuring it out but now it's getting old fast. I'm completely on-board with new profiles for best quality over speed. I would like to "dial it down" from highest quality to find my own balance on the time required.
I'm not always in the mood to tinker and tweak even though I enjoy it. Sometimes I would just rather have the perfect part for the time spent.
I have a new problem that doesn't seem to be in the database yet. My X1 is telling me calibration results are too different from previous calibration and that I need to clean the carbon rod?
Also, since I replaced the print surface with the ones they sent it doesn't recognize the bed anymore and I have to be there to override and continue print.
Another also is I had ordered and received new hot ends in 4 & 6 and when I replaced them they didn't read ambient temp and wouldn't heat up. I put the original back in and have been continuing to print with it but can't do anything other than open a ticket that there is no category for.
First time listener - just subscribed. ;)
Your comments about the slicer settings. This is a general slicer idea I had, wonder if it has any merit? Slicers have profiles for layer height typically which is often draft>fine etc. They adjust some settings but mostly the number of layers for top/bottom as a result. I was thinking, a useful thing would be to have some sort of slider option or maybe shape similar to the way colour gradients can be picked. You would have extremes for strength, quality, accuracy, speed (maybe)... you get the idea hopefully.... At the extremes you end up with things like lots of walls, high infill etc. or speeds adjusted to ensure accuracy and quality. This way you can quickly choose the priorities for the part and it adjusts all the settings to get the right mix. Experienced users do this all the time or create profiles etc but for adoption and ease I think this approach could work well a lot of the time. Anyway, that's my idea. I'd also like hole detection and it adds more walls/infill in those areas.
My x1 carbon broke the same day I received it, did a calibration print that crashed and now the printer says can’t resume previous job. Right know I have a $2000 paper weight
Hey, you are right. This is not a machine for beginner. There are to many point. It is not push the button and go. No 3d Printer is at the beginnkng push the button and go. I have experience for two years now, i got several printer, ready or built on on my own. But my Voron 2.4. will not be ready, xy core is different
Gonna ever do a video on your "manual tuning" of the printer or maybe share some profiles?
3DiY printer manufacturer is always in touch, BIZON 3 printers are reliable working machines.
Bambu printers seem to have nothing but problems. Every video I see is one of these being broken.
In terms of comparing the print of the X1 vs the Voron. I think the crisp corners are a result of improperly tuned pressure advance, leading to a very small amount of overextruded material in places where the print head had to change directions rapidly.
Are you saying the Voron overextruded? Because PA hasn’t been tuned so I’m inclined to agree. That said the crisp corners are how the part is designed and intended to be, so round smooth ones off the X-1 simply are not correct.
@@MandicReally It's not overextrusion, the extruder doesn't slow down enough when the print head decelerates, and therefore the material flows a bit more in corners. Corners and small details will be smoothed out if the PA value is too high though.
It's basically impossible to find a balanced PA value. And if you're printing really fast, the pressure in the hotend gets high and the printer has to compensate more.
Would be interesting if there was a setting for fine adjustment in the slicer.
@@robertgcode965 there isn’t in standard Bambu Studio. The “Soft Fever” fork has added PA (LA) adjustment and tuning models for testing and calibrating.
I’ve tried manually tuning Linear Advance on the X-1 and my findings don’t support the corner rounding being flow related (in that way anyway). Adjusted Linear Advance settings became quickly evident as underextrusion at the end of lines or blobs on surface but made no change to the corner rounding. It’s been a bit since I did that testing so maybe I’ll revisit it sometime soon.
@@MandicReally I think you're right. Maybe it's input shaper related. I don't have any experience with it yet.
0:55 what's nice about ptc heaters like the one in the bambu htoend, is that they're hardware limited to 300c. The power decreases the closer you get to 300c, so it is impossible to actually exceed that temp, no matter how much you try. The PLA might boil and smoke, but you wont be melting the heat block.
Could you point me to where you’ve found that temperature limit specification? Heater elements can vary by design so I’m just curious to have any hard data available. The way you describe it is arguably a matter of “working by design” where failed parts don’t necessarily conform to design. A short has potential to change things outside of spec and cause hot spots or spikes that could get higher. Anytime you are working with electrical and heater components they have the potential to fail outside of their intended design.
Bambu's answer: "The HOTEND can only reach a maximum temperature of around 400 C...", what means the heater alone can reach higher temps, and it is probably not a PTC heater.
For some reason they don't use PTC acronym anywhere.
PS, 1. ceramic doesn't means PTC, 2. resistive wire also has a Positive Thermal Coefficient.
This one looks similar to these used in bambu:
(search "MCH heater" for images)
MCH is the abbreviation of Metal Ceramics Heater, which means metal ceramic heating element. MCH refers to a ceramic heating body formed by printing metal tungsten or molybdenum-manganese paste on a ceramic casting blank, hot pressing and laminating, and then sintering ceramic and metal together under the protection of 1600 ℃ hydrogen atmosphere. Corrosion, high temperature resistance, long life, high efficiency and energy saving, uniform temperature, good thermal conductivity, fast thermal compensation speed, etc.
The reason you're seeing differences in the corners is because of the lack of input shaping on your 2.4 prints. Those corners are filleted, they shouldn't bump out they they are.
love your videos man, you fn rock !!! how fricken educative love it !!!! Best out there by far
I have been 3d printing for a little over a year now so i am still fairly new and just had the 'b' motor die in my X1C. Took about 3 weeks to get a replacement and i gotta say if i was completely new to 3d printing there is no way i would have done that replacement.
Thanks for hte video! I get that it's 10 months old, but do you remember how many hours of print time until you had these issues?
The P1P actually has a different connector for the thermistor, to mitigate this issue.
Just brought mine back to the store. Ordered a A1 probably going to be a better printer
I think the point about serviceability makes sense. I think they probably thought "We can charge 100 bucks more and put more effort into a more frustration free repair experience or cut 100 off the price to fight prusa", and maybe the wrong decision from a new brand perspective.
I mean maybe its not, and maybe people really care about getting the price down more because they dont feel its likely to happen to them, but just look at how much adoration prusa gets just for having fast responses from support. They dont even do the whole free shipping both ways for them to work on it for you. I think even just hiring fast support would probably help the brand a lot.
That all being said, you compare repairing a prusa to this, and well, while their support is faster, youd have to do the same thing. Board out, board in. To me, as long as its not a multi hour process and no soldering is involved, while it would be better to maybe offer something like Apple Care or Bambu Care where they have certified professionals do it, and handle both shipping labels, I think its all about the same.
I keep mentioning prusa for a reason by the way, because its important to remember what this is competing with, because if this process is imperfect (which it is) but the other processes are also imperfect (which they are) then its kinda a wash, but you still wish there was the option.
My points about support and repair are mor to the point that, 3D Printing will always have that. Every single machine ever produced will require some level of technical maintenance and repair. No matter who makes it, that is the case. I didn’t like working on my Prusa Mk3, I felt that also was designed a bit over complicated and not with repair as a forethought. That’s kind of my point though. Someone else commented maybe repair shops are in our future. I know for a fact Printed Solid used to offer that for folks on a range of machines. Maybe it is something in our future for those who don’t have the time or knowledge to handle it.
@@MandicReally I actually technically have at least one shop I can drive too and multiple in my country (Canada) that offer 3d printer repair services, so I think its not too much of a stretch for printer companies to just create programs for them to make the repair experience so easy it fixes the problem of user intimidation. I think its just up to consumer aimed printers not sorting this out yet. I know for sure Stratasys does better..... they also have single multiple dollar build surfaces though, so not the same, but I guess my point is I think its possible.
Heck, actually, I think all it would take, is Bambulab allowing these repair shops to stock niche parts ahead of time, and sort ut the shipping labels for people. They could charge an extra 50 or 100 when you buy the printer and guarantee easy repairs for 2 - 3 years or so.
So yea, while I think 3d printing will always have that, a lot of appliances do, but usually there is some type of extended warranty or option available to alleviate that and I dont see any reason printers cant have that too.
I just got my x1c. Im attempting to print threads and getting much lower quality than my flashforge adventurer 3 lol. So its definitely a finicky machine that doesn't just work amazing out of the box.
Thanks. I just had to disassemble my extruder to get some 30D TPU out and it wasn't very fun.
If you like to dig into things, could you look for a JTAG interface in there? I'd love to see what this firmware is doing. I'm quite certain it runs Linux, but what they have borrowed from other places, I have no idea about ;)
I don’t have a lot of time for it at the moment, but let’s just say, I’ve considered this topic and if I can make time may pursue it.
I think the corner diference is the linear or presure advance , download to 0.01
what are bambo going to do keep sending u parts untill the problems with the printer stop or happen again because of poor build quality and bad design
I would have been able to swap those components if it was my first printer, but that's only because I've done that kind of thing before (laptop disassembly for instance). Still that extreme amount of integration tells me this is not made to be maintained with ease. Given that they're using linear bearings, I'm willing the bet that a lot of the noise is coming from them and they probably should be flushed and regreased. Bambu says you just clean the rails and that they're not serviceable, but anyone who has a printer running them KNOWS they need to be serviced periodically (Prusa).
The black box approach to tuning is also going to bite them I think. As you've already noticed, it overly smooths corners, which could be problematic if you need those details. Klipper can do the exact same thing (surprise surprise, it's probably the same code), but most people don't let it do it automatically because of these exact issues.
Also, it's 2023 and there's still printers with thermal runaway?! Every reviewer needs to dig into this RIGHT NOW. Thermal runaway is 100% unacceptable, full stop.
The toolhead uses bushing, not bearings, so there is no greasing. They are self lubricating and the cleaning of the rails is just removing build up from the self lubrication. This does mean they will eventually wear out, but so do linear bearings.
@@MandicReally looks like they only use bushings on the carbon rods, at least on their maintenance page. So the P1P would have those on the tool head as well as the Y axis that the X1C does. I'd be curious to see if they're using genuine Igus bushings on the carbon.
i have a broken mainboard fan too... will replaced it with a noctua tomorrow
This really shows the biggest weaknesses of this machine and its proprietary ecosystem. That much complexity will foster failure. Doesn't matter how good the design the more complexity and nearer to the heat source those electronics are the more failures will occur. My printer's thermal runaway would have kicked off seconds into that issue... that is a fire waiting to happen. For some this machine is sensible, especially for multi color prints, but for me it is a pass for now. Competition may bring better options from other manufactures in the coming years.
Sounds like the Prusa XL will be complex too though (not that you said anything about the Prusa XL). Probably more complex, what makes the x1 complex other than the lidar and AMS anyway. That toolhead changer and heated bed consisting of probably multiple heating elements and sensors sound even worse when it comes to complexity. So doubtful the Prusa XL will be any more reliable.
If I go back to when I got my very first 3d printer (Voxelab Aquila right when it first came out) I can tell you that HELL no I would not have been able to diagnose or repair what you experienced! I was struggling to get my prints to stick to the bed at all, let alone printing, let alone printing *well*.
Can we get that 0.2mm quality profile you talked about? Would love to try it out!
I know this is an older video, but what slicer did you use to print the model with your Voron? I know I see a big difference when using Cura vs PrusaSlicer vs Simplify3D vs Canvas (for Palette 2 pro). But, I also know that i don't have every setting the same in all of these slicers. My point is that maybe that's also the case with why you see a difference. Can you use the same slicer for all the printers and see how they look then?
Wish I knew about you before. I knew I wasn't crazy that the ringing was a mechanical issue and none of what people and bambu was recommending was fixing it.
Also, where did you get the new PCB?
Personally, I think someone new to 3d printing should start off with a much cheaper Ender 3 or a clone to 1) Understand how 3d printers work 2) Be able to diagnose/repair issues they come across 3) Learn about mods, their benefits, downsides, etc and 4) To determine if they even like or have a need/want to 3d print
Yeah, that's what I should have done, would have been easier on my wallet too!! As I'm finally setting up my X1C I guess I'll see how it goes!
Sure that makes it easier on fixing some things, but on the other side, a lot of people buy a car and start driving it and if there is a problem, they call for help. That is ok, because not everyone wants to repair a car. I started with an Ender 3 and modded that thing, but that didn’t help me with my problems i had so far with my X1. The ender helped me more with my prusa, what still delivers better quality than the X1 and if i print small parts, the prusa is faster, because the starting process of the X1 is just crazy.
As someone who has multiple fdm and msla printers I disagree strongly. The main reason why is because I have had multiple friends I have recommended this exact same thing and they just wanted to print. It killed the entire experience for them and then I went over and from start to finish fixed the problem sometimes we had to replace parts right out of the gate. Could this happen on an x1 oh yes. But so far it seems like their support is responsive for issues seen. I really feel like the best option is whatever excites whoever is buying it.
I would say to get real use out a 3d printer you need to have CAD skills. Printing other people's designs is great but being able to custom design parts opens up a whole new world of possibilities.
My impression of the corners on the part printed on the Voron is that they seem worse to me, not better, but I haven't seen the model to actually know what it's supposed to look like. The Voron print reminds me of over-sharpening on TVs.
The Voron does have some extrusion issues at the corner, but the model IS sharp. It should not have any rounding of the corners. At least no more than extrusion requires.
Washing machines have parts that wear out too, and could be just as daunting as this to repair - non-technical people are fine with it though, because you can find a handyman to repair it. It's a bit of a chicken and egg situation, but if 3d printers keep getting more common then we can expect to see people starting businesses repairing them (like how phone repair shops sprung up)
Valid and a market that may be lacking right now. Could be a great idea for Makerspaces. Offer repair services and / or classes on repair and troubleshooting. 👌🏻
This is kinda a good point actually. I also feel the type of person to buy this at least has access to someone who is comfortable enough to follow instructions on repairs. I also know that there exist 3d printer repair services already, so if Bambulab got a certified Bambu repair program going that would do a lot to make people comfortable. Something like Apple Care where you pay more upfront but you get a no panels removed, shipping paid both ways magic fix service within a week.
The CTC replicator toolhead was much simpler in construction than Bambu, it only consisted of a stepper motor, guide wheel, spring, heater, thermistor and nozzle.
That being said I could take on this repair quite easily, would it be a pain in the butt having small parts, screws and delicate connectors, sure, but not impossible.
Well... my first thing I did on my first printer (ender 3 pro) was to upgrade to a big tree tech board, program it, and then spend a week trying to program the bltouch. I've never wanted to throw my computer out a window so many times
My initial thought seeing the title is maybe you had a review unit which did have some parts fixes. But then I also joked last night wait until people have to start doing maintenance on these. A printer is a printer.
Mine is a Kickstarter unit that I purchased. So it’s probably an early production run unit. The toolhead PCB and thermistor connection in particular seem to be one pain point they’ve improved over time.
Just got into 3d printing and really glad I missed alot of the beta everything. Come to the conclusion that 3d printing is actually 2d printing in layers. The real 3d printing will be 5 axis printing. That will be a game changer.
I have been trying to slow mine down for better over hangs the six fan I had been giving me a head ace. Only have reguler pla from zyltech and htpla the htpla has been a paint 😅
After my Shapeoko experience there's little chance I could support a machine like this. (nothing against Shapeoko's)
You'll get support for this machine to the point it's successor has launched and then spare parts will run dry.
The Shapeoko was at least an semi-open design so I had a local laser cutter cut me new endplates that Carbide3D could no longer source for their 2 year old machine. That's not something that's being offered here in terms of an open design. Voron seems to be the right way to go, standardize some open designs, that way you're not stuck with a broken machine in 2 years and it's either hundreds or unobtanium to fix trivial problems. You get options. Ender wise, I've got a local store carrying parts, while I might not get a direct reply from Creality, the market is flooded with parts, they have the supply chain figured out and we have great community support. Anycubic's actually been really good at responding to service requests, though honoring their warranties are another issue.
What issues did you have with your shapeoko? Been looking at them for a few years now but never pulled the trigger.
@@LilApe EOL support. Great machines.
My comment addresses the issue in short. They no longer supplied endplates for the gantry.
I preordered a Shapoko 3, waited a year?
Got the unit, had EMF issues, they replaced my PCB. Then they released the XL and XXL upgrade. So I bought the upgrade. This left me with remnants of an old machine, but not enough to rebuild it into a second.
Then they release a Z upgrade. So I bought that, at the same time I asked for Endplates so I could take my current Z, buy some steppers, and rebuild the old smaller machine collecting dust. That's when they told me they don't supply those parts because they moved onto the Shapeoko Pro/4?
Luckily the Shapeoko design is sem-open (custom extrusions), so I took the endplate design into Lightburn managed to get a local shop to laser me out some new endplates. I powder coated them in the garage and rebuilt the old machine. Now I have both machines S3 laser and S3XXL router running.
You're just at the mercy of the manufacturer once you start getting into custom machines/parts. Carbide was reasonably good to me, but they move onto new products so quick that you could be left in the cold sooner than you think.
Hmm 450hrs seems to be quite a little time I have almost double that on my v2.4 with no repairs. Except changing carbon. Which I have my Voron setup to tell me when to do so. Also I agree that this repair is also much more involved then someone new would be able to do easy. I think people where hoping but this isn’t 2d printer level yet. Maybe soon there will be dedicated 3d printer repair people. Ultimately if your new join a discord and make a friend local that can help when you need it.
when I put the acceleration down on Bambu I have sharp edges too... outer walls 2000-2500
the carbon filter aspect, do you have pictures, video footage of what the inside pocket of the carbon filter area is like? I have a P1P I want to convert to the P1S and can't find what kind of contraption/addition was added to the inside to rest the carbon filter on (through the door on the inside of the unit).. and wondered if you know, if you have footage on it? I will keep looking, haven't found that info yet.
They are selling a P1S upgrade kit: shrsl.com/45eg0 (affiliate link)
That said, I don’t have any information about that part in particular. I’d have to dig deep but I know for a fact I’ve never filmed that in depth so it would almost certainly be a fruitless effort. I can try and look at my P1P when I get it out of the box, but I also don’t know when I’ll have time for that.
@@MandicReally I just accidently screwed up and erased my message I think. The "box" or the spot the fan is attached to, I DO NOT BELIEVE is in the P1P at all. I had mine apart, was super tired because I did a lot of upgrades to it last night, I don't remember it. I will take it apart again and do some measurements. From your video it looked like the box was 5x8 and a few inches deep, I know some on printables have made refill boxes for theirs.. I will get that and print it also. trying to DIY as much as I can, already had the door (front) and lid from an X1 so I am nearly there. Appreciate you getting back to me bro!