You are so right about the recoat time, 16 hrs is killer amount of time. But the paint is so easy to use, covers well, looks amazing and is tough as nails. Love to use it on my cabinets for my rentals.
It is a great product Michael. For a rental it would be perfect just due to how durable it is. Most guys go cheap on Rentals so kudos to you for putting something good there.
So I’ve been using Advance a bit more recently and I’ve been able to pretty easily get two coats on in a day. The dry times vary depending on conditions, but it seems to be getting a bit easier to work with. I’m glad you liked the intro 🧙♂️
I love this paint. I used it on my kitchen cabinets and no streaks or brushstrokes! Beautiful coverage. I did not use mineral spirits to wash brushes, just soap and water. Well worth the $$
I purchased this for my new kitchen cabinet doors. Got all of the backs sprayed. Waiting for better weather to finish fronts. Paid $79 gal. Love it so far
Seen a lot of DIY painting tips that all rated this the best paint for trim and furniture. I am so glad that I watched your video telling all the facts. I may try using a sample of this paint before I jump in buying a gallon.
A lot of people make a big deal about the cost of paint. I understand if youre in a very tight financial situation, but in the case of a full remodel, where the cost of your paint is a fraction of the cost of painting labor/total job, buying premium paint just makes sense. In a whole house, you might be using 2 gallons of trim paint. So if you spend, $20 extra a gallon (40 total) to get a a more beautiful finish, that will also give you better value over time, with regard to durability, it’s a no brainer. Even more the case on a cabinet job, where labor/paint ratio is ~90:10 or something. Trying to no avail to sell this mindset to my boss 😂 im a carpenter/painter/sprayfinisher for a GC in Long Island NY. Love the vids man! Hope all is well with you
I completely agree good sir. It’s especially worth it to get a quality trim paint. Pay a few extra sheckles and get products that perform well. Good luck convincing your boss! 🤦♂️
You don't need a mineral spirit rinse. Dawn dish detergent works. Advance semi-gloss is my go to cabinet paint due to the self leveling and beautiful, hard finish. The recoat time is the biggest drawback. Cabinet jobs always take us 3-4 days minimum, we then wait at least a few days for the paint to cure and harden before we reinstall everything.
I will give the dish detergent a try. We've been using hybrids more and I'm trying to keep my brushes looking spiffy. Thanks for the recommendation! I'm going to try that out this week🤙
As a 28yr. painter now working in a Maintenance dept (easier, same pay 😁) I was brush n roll painting an entire casino/ hotel/ admin offices/ (doors & trim only) with this when the 2022 shortages hit, was forced to use Scuff-X which is insanely awesome for certain things but did not bond very good.. (Only because I was going right over a previous shiny hard shell finish, couldn't use stinky COVERSTAIN.. so the doors would chip easy), So we forked out the money for "COMMAND". (BenMoore) CAN YOU GUESS THE WHOLE PLACE IS GETTING REPAINTED WITH 'COMMAND'..! SUPER FAST DRY TIME FORGIVING, EASY TOUCH UP, AND BONDS AS GOOD AS COVERSTAIN OIL PRIMER. (I used COMMAND on a Tommy lift truck gate with sand in it, and 15 toy hauler back door ramps.. It's like rhino lining..! ** I would've kept using Advance though because it was working fine, bonded good and had a hard shell finish.. Just get some air on it or it will run..!
I love Advance paint, I brush then roll it with a sponge roller, perfect! The odour goes in 24hrs. Worth waiting for it to dry. I used it on kitchen cabinets.
I was looking for drying time tips for Advance paint. I currently have my first coat drying on my cabinets and I ran across your video. Literally the best and most "extra" intro for a paint video. I was hooked from the start! Ha!
@@SuperVassarBrothers You are so right about the one coat a day, it's the worst thing about this paint, it takes weeks to paint my kitchen cabinets. But it's worth it, they look great, are easy to work with, and is renter-proof.
They dry by loss of moisture. In humid areas takes longer to dry, dry areas will be faster. If you wanted to speed up drying the best idea is to use a dehumidifier. But you should wait the 16 hours.
This paint was used by my husband on some VERY old, ridiculous-looking (think 60’s, plain-Jane) cabinets in my home and the finish is phenomenal. He used brushes and low nap 4” rollers to finish the doors - adding molding to make the doors shaker-style. After they cured : amazing! It was a true labor of love. With that said, I’m wondering if I use it to refinish furniture (a hutch and some side tables), should I wait the required weeks of cure time, then topcoat it with a poly? To add durability or would that be overkill? Thank you Jeremy, for these terrific videos and sharing your knowledge. ☮️ ✌🏼
Thanks for the kind words! To your question about painting furniture, you don’t need to do a coat of poly. Advance is a hybrid product so it has a fair amount of oil resins pumped into it. You can think of it like a paint that has poly built into it. Use a good primer, do at least 2 topcoats of Advance. Let it cure, then you’re ready to rip. I’d use the process and products I used in this video for handrails: The Secrets to Painting Your Handrails FAST ruclips.net/video/N61F9K9cjnA/видео.html
3-5 days to cure sounds pretty good! The adhesion and coverage sounds really good as well. Too bad it runs… I had that problem in the house I just bought- the previous owner used semi-gloss on the walls (cringe)… trying to paint over with satin… we had a lot of drips 🥲 The price is a little high for me, but it is a premium product- so… Thanks for this video!
Hi Mary. Thanks for the compliments. A less expensive product is Duration semi gloss from Sherwin Williams which we like a lot. (If you get the 40% discount the price is manageable).
So I just used this paint 4 base high gloss in a bright cobalt blue on a huge piece of furniture. The furniture was stripped, sanded, cleaned with tsp, primed with PPG seal grip gripper tinted gray. I sanded after primer which went on amazing. First coat of this BM high gloss went on very streaky, which I expected. Waited 2 days and it didn’t level much. It’s dark in areas. Second coat went in today, it’s almost not sticking to the first coat, separating once painted. I’ve never had this happen and zero clue what to do. I’ve used this paint on a few other pieces and never had this problem
Hmmm, that’s odd that it’s not gripping to itself. You can try to scuff sand it between coats. I’ve also had a lot of success using the Corona Vegas brushes to apply advance. I’d start with scuff sanding and applying another coat
The rule of thumb used to be Benjamin Moore for interior and Sherwin-Williams for exterior. But that's changing, I do love the aura 4 exteriors as well as interior especially for the walls
My go to trim finish paint is Aura semi-gloss, but my go to cabinet finish paint is still Satin Impervo oil (Advance satin in our #2 option if the customer prefers a non oil-based product). With factory finished cabinets (never painted), first we use a fast dry oil bonding primer (Zinsser Cover stain) since it achieves scratch resistance really fast and sands super smooth. Satin Impervo oil is better than Advance for cabinets as long as using a solvent based product isn't an issue.
That's a solid move. I want to start incorporating more oil based trim based in our rotation. A lot of times the client wants the old oil trim converted to latex, in which case we'll use a hybrid or use BIN and then go over it with a standard latex. Sometimes I feel like it would just be quicker and better to just use an oil trim paint to start with. I'll give Impervo Satin a try. Thanks for the heads up!
The Satin Impervo has a tendency to yellow fairly quickly. If you do a touch up less than a year later, you will already notice a difference in the colour, especially in low light areas.
Ok I got the advance semi gloss in white for my trim. I found that the semi gloss in advance is almost full gloss! Compared to my old valspar white gloss the advance semi gloss has the same gloss. I went out and got the satin advance and it's perfect. To me the satin advance is the same as other brands semi gloss.
Yes the Advance semi is a bit glossier than most semi glosses out there. We like the satin Advance a lot and are using on a job currently. Glad you like it! The satin does seem similar to other semi glosses, maybe a tad less sheen, but close in my opinion
That would be a good comparison. I've only done a test spray with gallery, so I don't have much experience with it. From what I understand gallery can only be applied with a sprayer. Advance you can spray it or brush and roll it.
I have Sherwin Williams Classic acrylic painted on wood trim in a bathroom. Contractor did that as part of a bath remodel. We dislike the color. I have always used Ben Moore products in our house for 30 years but made a concession because contractor said they prefer SW. Gonna tackle the repaint myself. What do I need to do to the SW Pro Classic finish to prep it for Ben Moore Advance? I have used Ben Moore Advance on beadboard trim and woodwork in another remodel project I did. Thank you!
Hi Ann. Thanks for the question. A light sand is all you need to do to the Sherwin Williams painted trim. The advance will stick to almost anything. Good luck!
I'm not a professional painter and my biggest concern is brush marks (roping) . In your opinion would this paint show less brush marks are would emerald urethane trim paint be a better choice? Price for me isn't a major concern as I figure I will only need two gallons of trim paint for our 1500 square foot home. I just want to use whatever paint there is out there that will give me the best results as I don't have a sprayer and I will be using a brush only for my trim. Again roping or brush marks are my top concern. Thank you!
Hi there. If brush strokes are your main concern go with Advance. Just check for drips. It has a long open time and you can only do one coat a day. The leveling is fantastic. Happy painting!
Used Advance on all my kitchen cabinets ( stripped to the wood, then BM primer) and the finish job is super at semi-gloss level. Hand brushed all parts but cheated on backs of cabinet doors and sprayed with…wait for it…Krylon craft paint. Waited a full week in humid NC between coats. Loooooong process but well worth it.
Thanks for this review. I'm thinking about painting my kitchen cabinets with this paint. I'm wondering, though...if I paint the back/inside of the cabinet doors first, will I be able to paint the front after 4-5 hours without damaging the back that I just painted?
Hi Alexandra. You should be fine if you wait 4-6 hours to paint the other side. Try it on one door and see how it goes. If it goes poorly just wait a bit longer until the one side is dry. Good luck!
No way. Not possible. I did some doors. Put a drop cloth on a stack of them after I went to do another coat on others which was after 16 hours. Left a pop can on top of the dropcloth. The pattern was embedded into the paint. I'm even leery to touch the doors after 16 hours with my fingers as I might leave finger prints. I use latex gloves to handle the doors. I've recently sprayed about 12 gallons on doors recently.
Hi Jeremy, my kitchen cabinets have been stained but I would now like to paint them white with BM Advance paint, can I just sand the cabinets, or do they have to be stripped first?
Hi Lisa, You don't have to strip them, definitely sand and you may want to prime them. We haven't done a project like that in a while so check with a good employee or manager at Benny Moore. A primer we like is the Zinsser B-I-N Shellac Base primer which you can find at Home Depot or Lowes. The link is below. The Advance will look great on the cabinets and I do recommend doing a test area if you can, to make sure it will be your desired look. Good luck! www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-gal-B-I-N-Shellac-Based-White-Interior-Primer-and-Sealer-00901/100398381?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA-71700000075826637-58700006498654198-92700058683659550&gclid=CjwKCAjwve2TBhByEiwAaktM1GCtB5feZckwMJouuH-IjW8JXZrgRYRH8OCsJBGX855Nkf_Lh6-5rhoCTNMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I took a screen shot of your comment, and I'll add this to the list of products to take a look at. I've never used Valspar Cabinet & Furniture, but I'd like to give it a go. Also, your user name is excellent. "Let's leave these two lovebirds alone"
@@SuperVassarBrothers I was a professional painter for many years and then ran a paint building supply paint department which featured Valspar. The product I mentioned is also a water based urethane hybrid paint specifically designed to dry hard. It's $10 cheaper a gallon cheaper than BM Advance available at Lowes and also recommends thinner at some point to clean brushes. What most concerned me about your review was the 'dripping' aspect of Advance. I plan on using the Valspar and I'll let you know what I think if you'd like.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Hello, wanted to tell you I used the Valspar Cabinet and Furniture paint. It seems very good. We'll see over time how it hold up. Covers very well. Wants to run just like Advance so you have to be consistent applying it....;-) Had no real odor until after a few hours when it began to cure and then smelled similar to oil base enamel. It's a VERY thick product. The finish is very nice a couple days later. I can recommend it at this point. And, it's $10 cheaper. Food for thought.
Hello! I was suggested this product for trims as well. Have you seen how those trims looks after a couple of years? Are they slightly loosing the bright white becoming a little beige looking or tend to be more yellowish over the time? Thank you!
So for trim in an older home with kids and dogs - is the current Regal Select in Pearl really going to under perform compared to Advanced ? What about Scuff X ?
If you remember the good old days when we used oil for all millwork satin impervo was tits this seems to behave alot like that paint and the finish is very similar spray like oil. Thanks for the info guy
@@SuperVassarBrothers Satin Impervo is still around and that's what I love to use on woodwork and trim but Advance is very good too. I believe BM is phasing this product out but there was time a few years back that BM was phasing out the Satin Impervo oil and what they tried to do was introduce a Satin Impervo waterborne paint to take it's place. While it leveled out great, it was garbage, it wasn't durable, it did not cure hard at all so any bump would chip it and if you put tape on it, it would peal some of it off. Needless to say, Satin Impervo oil made a comeback and now they are doing away with the SI waterborne. It seems like what BM got wrong with the SI waterborne they got right with Advance.
Finish is great, it bonds really good, dry time good, touch up good, but boy.... If You don't have air flow cranking immediately after coating, There's no hope. If painted too thick this stuff will run from sea to shining sea..! It's best if you're an actual painter if using this product..!
This is awesome. “All shall love me and despair.” I bought an old house where the former owner painted over the old oil trim with a stingy light layer of latex… of course. No primer. And it peels, it chips, and when heated, pulls off the oil layer like taffy. So, now I shall suffer and despair. Will this product be OK to use over this mess? Maybe sand it, and then hope that this paint will penetrate through this mess and adhere properly? 🧙♂️ 🧝♀️
Hi Carol. Yes "you shall suffer" :). The best you can do is sand off all loose paint, sometimes cut with a knife as well. Advance will be great for going over the oil paint. If there is latex paint still left over and you paint over it, it may peel up later if someone scratches it. We had a job the other week where someone painted latex over oil. We didn't scrape everything off, just the loose stuff and painted over it with a paint like Advance. It worked great and it wasn't a high traffic so it should be fine.
No. You need to remove any paint not adhering well, do some sanding or use Krud Kutter, then use a bonding primer on the oil that is compatable with latex.
Hey what's up man fellow painter here myself.. we use emerald urethane on our cabinets and trim work... never gotten any complaints and I noticed it drys really really hard.... If what everybody says is correct which I believe that, advance may be a little bit better and have more durability that's cool I don't really care I don't have the 16 hours of dry time and I'm not willing to take a chance of spraying cabinet doors and having them all run.... Nope not going to do it... I put in cup hooks on my doors and hang them up so I can shoot both sides... If I have to stand around and wait for drips they're going to happen regardless like yeah no not down for that brother
Glad to hear you like Emerald Urethane. We like that paint a lot. We did a comparison video here ruclips.net/video/0kdWGKEhXXU/видео.html. We don't spray cabinets, and are thankful for your feedback about it. Always nice to get inside info about a product. Keep fighting the good fight my friend.
A lot of folks do that and it’s a great paint to work with. It’s less durable than a product like Emerald Urethane trim enamel but sometimes that’s not a big factor.
Hello thanks i feel like i can finally trust a review of this paint now. Everything else i watched is like a brochure. You said its not your go to trim paint, can i ask what is? And if you're doing more cabinets would this be your go to there?
Here’s our current load out including the trim paint we use: My New Paint Load Out // 2023 ruclips.net/video/ceynEKT5loc/видео.html My buddies that do a lot of cabinets also use Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel which is our current go-to trim paint. Advance is good as well and plenty of folks use it on cabinets.
Advance is a hybrid and it’s got an incredibly long open time. There’s not a need to put extender in it. If you’re having issues with it drying as you’re working with it then you’re probably over brushing and / or not moving fast enough.
Paid $5 per quart, got two, so $10 but not my preferred color. Small biz sells up-cycled paint for very cheap (all brands) but obviously you need to be flexible on the color. Once I paint the vanity cabinets, I’ll provide feedback. BTW, can I use Advanced with Wagner sprayer?
I have not tried that product through a sprayer like that. I’m actually using it in the field today on some handrails. I have a feeling it’s too thick to go through your Wagner.
IMO, most paints are sprayable with an airless sprayer like a Graco Magnum X5 for example. That’s the one I have and have tried several paints with it with great success. The most important thing is always the prep and the setup of how you will spray it.
I'm doing doors right now with my airless with a 310 tip and they are coming out like the finish on a car. Took me a lot of trial and error though to get to that point.
A lot of the guys that I know that paint cabinets like using Advance or Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel. Both are great options. Just make sure you're giving it enough time to dry between coats. Good luck with your project!
I have heard that the Benjamin Moore Advance white isn’t ultra white as they have added black to it. Is this true? If so, what similar paint would you recommend for painting kitchen cabinets to have an ultra white finish while maintaining all the pros you listed in the video for Benjamin Moore Advance Paint?
Jay, I haven't heard of BM adding black to the ultra white. Maybe I missed this, but we haven't had issues with it. We use Advance for other trim (we don't do much cabinet painting) and have had no issues with their whites. We like the satin finish in the Advance as well. Good luck!
@Jay Dee when white looks whiter than white, it's because they add a tad of blue giving an illusion of being whiter. You can't literally make white whiter. I used to work at a BM paint store that my Dad used to own and that's what the Rep told us.
So like a true amateur I didn't read the instructions. I assumed the recoat time was the same as benjamin Moores regal select and applied the 2nd coat after only a couple hrs. What do u guys recommend I do? As of now it seems ok. Do I bother adding a 3rd coat after waiting the recommended 16 hrs?
If you like how it looks then you don’t need to do a 3rd coat. We just used advance in satin this week and we recoated a few hours after we put the first coat on. Dry times can vary widely depending on conditions.
Love this paint, just don’t rush the process (remember to account for humidity, if that’s prevalent @ the job site). Shout out to Ben Moore for developing their Stix Primer - best primer I’ve ever used, hands down. Completely agree about runs w/ Advance, be careful in vertical applications. When painting new wood, paint components horizontally before assembly. Assemble carefully after 6 hours (accounting for humidity), then touch up w/ roller or brush, applying only as much as is needed for coverage & blending. Stix primer + Advance topcoats is my new favorite for new work.
I’m not sure if I’ve ever used Stix but I’ve heard good things about it. I’m a big fan of fresh start. We’ve been using quite a bit of it recently. I’ll give Stix a try when I next get a chance 🫡
I am not sure precisely what you mean by that. If you’re using Advance then that’s the finish paint. Once you put however many coats of Advance on your trim, doors or whatever, then just let it dry and you’re good to go.
That has more to do with what surface you are priming. Advance is fairly forgiving as far as what surfaces it will stick to because it has a high degree of adhesion. You can check out this video on what to prime if you'd like more details on primers: ruclips.net/video/mEUZaXQpx2g/видео.html
If you are using a sprayer it's more about doing an even coat than a light coat. Generally you're going to end up doing two coats, maybe more depending on the color.
Yes you can. Most of the time you can scuff sand the oils based trim and then go right over it with Advance. I’d recommend doing a test spot to see if you get a good bond. If it doesn’t bond well then you may need to use a bonding primer like fresh start or BIN shellac.
Have 30 y/o wood cabniets (Merrillat Amherts cherry - ie medium brown) don't have $$ to do replacments cabniets want to use BM Advance to paint a similar brown color. Can't find anyone that's done it. (know the trend is lighter paint colors but I like wood) Is that bc it will just look bad or just not trending now. Thanks
Most people that paint cabinets want them to look “painted”. The popular colors right now for painted cabinets are various whites, grays, gray blues and so forth. But if you like the color you picked out then go for it. They’re your cabinets!
Hi Paul, appreciate the comment. We like Duration semi gloss from Sherwin Williams. Its a little hard to get at the moment due to supply shortages. Here's our video on it (It's one of our earlier ones, but people seem to like it). Have a good one! ruclips.net/video/aQ92jqiak3c/видео.html
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thanks for prompt reply! On a separate but related note, I’m an avid DIY woodworker. Do you have a video that discusses HVLP sprayers vs airless sprayers? I’m not sure which would be best for my needs. And which models of each would you recommend? I build furniture and casework. But I may also be refinishing cabinets for my home. Thx!
@@ptortland Advance has a hard time in my 4 stage airless. I have to thin it more than the recommended rate to get it through even with a big tip. I'm doing doors with my airless with a 310 tip and its spraying flawlessly..
Ive always thought of "open time" as the time you have to brush/ work the paint, before it starts to set up??? "drag" if brushing... which is critical in a review... some of these waterborne paints... are very close to being spray application only... Again?????
Hi John. Thanks for the comment. Advance has a very long open time where you can touch up (more with the semi gloss than the satin). The reocat time is recommended for 16 hours, but you can recoat faster if you want to live on the wild side :)
Hi Corey. Yes Advance should work well. Also Ben Moore has another product we used a few times, but unfortunately I forget what it was called. If you go to the store ask them what they would recommend. May be a more industrial base. But Advance would work well too.
Hi Corey, One more thing...... For the Super Spec if you go with a lighter color such as a white it may yellow over time due to having polyurethane in the paint. We really like the paint for dark colors. Just wanted you to be aware.
If it dries to the touch in 4 to 6 hours...why wait 16 hours for the second coat ? Soon as any paint I use is dry to the touch I immediatlely do a second coat.
Dry to the touch means that it won't come off on your fingers when you touch it. If you tried it you'd see what I'm talking about. After a few hours it won't come off on you hands, but it's still soft cause it hasn't cured all the way through. If you try and recoat too soon then the second coat won't go on well and the brush will drag. Then the finish will look like crap. We can get it to try faster using fans and the satin does dry quite a bit quicker than the semi-gloss.
@@SuperVassarBrothers I know what dry touch is..my question is if paint is dry to the touch after 4 hours....why would you wait another 12 hours to apply the second coat ?
@@fairamir1 he just told you why. It hasn't cured all the way through the paint layer and you will F-up the job if you dont let advance dry 16 hours that's why. You can read on the side of the can. Benjamin Moore says to wait 16 hours. Of course you can do what you want.
@@gregkeeyako I always do my second coat as soon as the first coat is dry to the touch....average 15 minutes depending on the paint. You do not need paint to cure to do a second coat. Also it takes 3 to 5 days for paint to cure. I paint my second coat quaickly after the first caost. I have had no problems ever in 28 years
@@SuperVassarBrothers you must to think so because you are perfection my friend! I am from Greece and i don't speak very well American language but i understand everything you say in this video! Thanks 🙏
It will not bond to oil paint unless you sand it to a really dull finish and it will bond better but if you have to paint anything over oil and it's not oil base paint, prime it first!
Confession time...I cheated, and only waited 10 to 12 hours. What's the worst that can happen? Does the 1st coat never cure? This is for my house, so I'm not too worried, but would like to know if I use it for a job. After using roller/brush, I lightly sanded between coats with 320 screen and it didn't clog or peel (boogers and dog hair).
That’s plenty of time. It really depends on drying conditions. We’ve done two coats within an 8 hour period and push dried it with fans. The big thing is to give it a chance to cure all the way through before you put anything on it or expose the surface to hard use. Like if you painted a window sill, don’t put potted plants on it for at least 72 hours.
We don't paint cabinets much. If I had to, Ben Moore Advance in satin or semi. Ceiling we like Promar Ceiling paint from Sherwin Williams. Hope this helps!
i just painted areas of my home using the ben moore line for the walls, trim and doors in different finishes, semi gloss for the trim,doorsbaseboards and eggshell for the walls and its been an absolute nightmare. for the trim and doors especially. the finished look is horrible. the brush strokes are so distracting and dizzying to look at, the drag while painting, the uneven altered sheens that came through, so many coats just to cover and even out the color and coverage and its not a smooth finish at all. i had a painter do the work and i bought the paint. ive used triple the amount of paint it seems and double the cost of labor. ben is not a cheap line either. but i cant stand the trim. the painter did not forewarn me about this and make any recommendations until after it was painted when i said ive never seen trim look like this. he then suggested i use regal or aura if i wanted that ultra smooth finish. never mentioned advanced until i started doing this research. the advanced sounds a little bit difficult with the drying time and the labor again. to redo the trim after what ive already invested makes me very frustrated and sick to my stomach because im so sick of dealing with this but i cant accept the trim as it is. ive used a bm line because of the color which is same color used in most of my house for matching purposes. besides the advance, is there anything else that you would recommend that would still be better than what i currently have? ive heard the aura is good for trim and could go easily over the ben line i used without any more prep work? im not so sure about using the advance even though it sounds exactly like the finished result i want. im also unsure about the prep work for using the advance to repaint the trim. the painter should know but i feel he should of known this beforehand as the professional which im not happy about. he is willing to make it right. im assuming with the advance you cant just paint over the ben paint i just used and it would not be that simple? does it need to be sanded and primed again? again, would the regal or aura at least make it look a lot better and closer to what i wanted? any help or recommendations you have i would greatly appreciate it. i have no idea at this point what to use, i just dont want to have the same issue again. its not only the cost, but the time and energy this has taken with horrible results. Thank you for your time
First off, I am sorry for what you’re currently experiencing. That is no fun. I would not recommend Aura or Regal for trim. We’ve been having issues with those products after they went through reformulations. Here’s my recommendation and feel free to take it or leave it: 1) Ask your painter what he prefers using and gets the best results with and have him use that. Most paints can be tinted to whatever color you want. 2) Try Emerald Urethane trim enamel in your preferred Benny Moore color. That’s our current favorite trim paint. 3) Try Command in a satin finish from Benny Moore. It’s very similar to Emerald Urethane and works really well. Lastly, if your painter can’t get the results your looking for with their preferred product or the other two that I mentioned, then you may want to try another painter. I hesitate to throw the painter under the bus because I haven’t seen their work. There’s my two cents for what it’s worth.
I have 90s medium tone wood cabinets I want to paint. It must originally been sprayed with some sort of polyurethane type factory finish but much of that has come off with wear, so about a year ago I used oil soap followed by Howard's Feed-n-wax. So my question is, do I need to prime before using the Advance paint? If yes, can I use Kilz which is cheaper? Thanks for the great video!!
Thanks for the feedback Kristin. Tough for us to give you an exact recommendation without seeing your cabinets. I would recommend sanding and priming your cabinets just to be safe. Our favorite primer at the moment is the Zinsser BIN shellac based primer (attached link at end of comment). You could do a test area as well to make sure you like the finish. The Satin finish in Advance has a nice look. The semi gloss is good, but really shiny. Good luck! www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-gal-B-I-N-Shellac-Based-White-Interior-Primer-and-Sealer-00901/100398381?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA-71700000075826637-58700006498654198-92700058683659550&gclid=CjwKCAjw7IeUBhBbEiwADhiEMfRUQfOvL8KXuC6O_4lHL7nQUD9hr4tAxAHRU4h5TTxlrIWvxBKLWhoC4BUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
It's a hybrid, so there are oil resins in the formulation. From what I've seen it doesn't yellow as much as a traditional oil based paint like Satin Impervo, but even that is not generally a big deal.
Advance definitely has an odor to it, as do all of the hybrids. It's not nearly as bad as an oil like Impervo Satin, but some folks are more sensitive to it than others. If you want to accelerate the curing / off gassing process then you can put them in a garage and run a fan on them. That'll scoot things along.
Hi Jack. Recently we've been having luck with just water clean up. Also the smell is substantially less than most solvent based paints. Some guys love the solvents and they do have their benefits.
@@jackwardley3626 Certain States like California are very strict on environmental regulations. Paints that are high in VOC are not allowed, and well oil based and solvent based paints are very high in VOC.
I didn't watch the vid , I just wanna say loved the thumbnail , "thou shalt not dry" ,,, hilarious .... and ain't that the truth .... I have a feeling BM may add some chemicals soon to remedy that because EVERYONE points that slow dry time out about Advance .... might as well us oil , and it does drag bad if you hit it too early
@@shure46 this is super slow drying paint. I use stack racks. A few days ago a couple doors looked well flashed over so after about 5 hours I flipped them to do the other side. Then I stacked them. Well the paint ran and dripped in a few areas. About 3 days later I wet sanded and the paint more or less dissolved. Before that I took a sharp chisel and used it to cut off the drips. The surface was dry but under that there was still "gummy" wet paint. So its very easy to sand as the water I used turned into watered down paint. A very odd paint to use but once you get used to it is a great finish. Buy yeah. Primer and 2 coats on these 30 doors is taking forever.
ABSOLUTELY HATE THIS PAINT!! Been a Professional Fine Painter for over 20 years. I tried this paint and must say, the paint seems thin and it doesn't work well if you are painting a light color over a dark one. It runs!! Even when sprayed, because the open time is longer than a regular paint time making therefore more time to run. I used a primer before applying this shitty paint. I wouldn't recommend it!! The Fine Paints from Europe costs a bit more but worth it. Cure time about 3 weeks, it will dry to touch faster than he says, but it will literally peel off in a few hours.
Thanks for the feedback Javier. We have had good results with brush and roller with the Advance satin. Never sprayed it tho. We do use Emerald Urethane in semi gloss as well.
I agree I've been in it 36 years and I'm not impressed with this video. I'm old school fresh start Benjamin Moore primer super semi-gloss enamel top coat for cabinets 💪👍 .
Must be a different advance. I spray this with a 210 on trim and doors and love it. I must say it has a huge learning curve. I tried s lot of tips and pressures and did a lot of runs to get where I am. I've probably sprayed now 25 gallons of it and my doors are coming out like the side of a car.
Did you spray on a spraying booth, with the doors hanging?? How many coats? Sanded in between? Because my experience was, even with a 800 grit sand paper, the paint would start to come off, this was after a couple of days. I used it 3 times and it behaved pretty much the same.
NOT good paint I don't understand why people say BM Advance paint is great. I have been painting for years and it is the WORST paint I have ever used. It is nothing it says it is. It has no working time, does not lay off well, and does not level at all. Bought the prime and brush they recommend. I just did my new trim and all I see is brush marks. I returned the first gallon and tried a second, same poor results. I recommend avoiding this paint at all costs.
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You are so right about the recoat time, 16 hrs is killer amount of time. But the paint is so easy to use, covers well, looks amazing and is tough as nails. Love to use it on my cabinets for my rentals.
It is a great product Michael. For a rental it would be perfect just due to how durable it is. Most guys go cheap on Rentals so kudos to you for putting something good there.
Painters here used a hair dryer and or a floor heater to bury the drying time along.
The 16h dry time is tough, but well worth it when you see the phenomenal finish. LOVE the LOTR intro by the way! That's awesome! lol
So I’ve been using Advance a bit more recently and I’ve been able to pretty easily get two coats on in a day. The dry times vary depending on conditions, but it seems to be getting a bit easier to work with.
I’m glad you liked the intro 🧙♂️
I love this paint. I used it on my kitchen cabinets and no streaks or brushstrokes! Beautiful coverage. I did not use mineral spirits to wash brushes, just soap and water. Well worth the $$
It’s a great product. Thanks for watching!
I purchased this for my new kitchen cabinet doors. Got all of the backs sprayed. Waiting for better weather to finish fronts. Paid $79 gal. Love it so far
It’s a great product for cabinets. I hope your project turns out well!
That opener was very ethereal...nice touch
Thanks! That took way to long to put together 😅
I paint cabinets. I use Behr Dynasty. Great coverage and dries in 15 minutes for second coat. Also very very durable.
If it's working for you then keep on keeping on.
Seen a lot of DIY painting tips that all rated this the best paint for trim and furniture. I am so glad that I watched your video telling all the facts. I may try using a sample of this paint before I jump in buying a gallon.
Appreciate the kind words sixshooter. You may be able to buy a quart, but not smaller than that. Have a good one!
A lot of people make a big deal about the cost of paint. I understand if youre in a very tight financial situation, but in the case of a full remodel, where the cost of your paint is a fraction of the cost of painting labor/total job, buying premium paint just makes sense. In a whole house, you might be using 2 gallons of trim paint. So if you spend, $20 extra a gallon (40 total) to get a a more beautiful finish, that will also give you better value over time, with regard to durability, it’s a no brainer. Even more the case on a cabinet job, where labor/paint ratio is ~90:10 or something.
Trying to no avail to sell this mindset to my boss 😂 im a carpenter/painter/sprayfinisher for a GC in Long Island NY.
Love the vids man! Hope all is well with you
I completely agree good sir. It’s especially worth it to get a quality trim paint. Pay a few extra sheckles and get products that perform well.
Good luck convincing your boss! 🤦♂️
Oh my gosh that intro is awesome! Great job!!!
Haha, I'm glad you appreciated it!
You don't need a mineral spirit rinse. Dawn dish detergent works. Advance semi-gloss is my go to cabinet paint due to the self leveling and beautiful, hard finish. The recoat time is the biggest drawback. Cabinet jobs always take us 3-4 days minimum, we then wait at least a few days for the paint to cure and harden before we reinstall everything.
I will give the dish detergent a try. We've been using hybrids more and I'm trying to keep my brushes looking spiffy. Thanks for the recommendation! I'm going to try that out this week🤙
As a 28yr. painter now working in a Maintenance dept (easier, same pay 😁)
I was brush n roll painting an entire casino/ hotel/ admin offices/ (doors & trim only) with this when the 2022 shortages hit, was forced to use Scuff-X which is insanely awesome for certain things but did not bond very good.. (Only because I was going right over a previous shiny hard shell finish, couldn't use stinky COVERSTAIN.. so the doors would chip easy), So we forked out the money for "COMMAND". (BenMoore)
CAN YOU GUESS THE WHOLE PLACE IS GETTING REPAINTED WITH 'COMMAND'..!
SUPER FAST DRY TIME FORGIVING, EASY TOUCH UP, AND BONDS AS GOOD AS COVERSTAIN OIL
PRIMER.
(I used COMMAND on a Tommy lift truck gate with sand in it, and 15 toy hauler back door ramps.. It's like rhino lining..!
** I would've kept using Advance though because it was working fine, bonded good and had a hard shell finish.. Just get some air on it or it will run..!
Command is pretty sweet for certain applications. You’re right. That stuff will stick to just about anything!
I love Advance paint, I brush then roll it with a sponge roller, perfect! The odour goes in 24hrs. Worth waiting for it to dry. I used it on kitchen cabinets.
That's a great product for that application. I'm glad it went well!!
I was looking for drying time tips for Advance paint. I currently have my first coat drying on my cabinets and I ran across your video. Literally the best and most "extra" intro for a paint video. I was hooked from the start! Ha!
Thanks for the kind words. To be safe we do one coat a day. Good luck!
@@SuperVassarBrothers You are so right about the one coat a day, it's the worst thing about this paint, it takes weeks to paint my kitchen cabinets. But it's worth it, they look great, are easy to work with, and is renter-proof.
They dry by loss of moisture. In humid areas takes longer to dry, dry areas will be faster. If you wanted to speed up drying the best idea is to use a dehumidifier. But you should wait the 16 hours.
Research Cabinet Coat by Insul X that is owned by BM. According to BM it scored better in the pencil test than that paint.
This paint was used by my husband on some VERY old, ridiculous-looking (think 60’s, plain-Jane) cabinets in my home and the finish is phenomenal. He used brushes and low nap 4” rollers to finish the doors - adding molding to make the doors shaker-style. After they cured : amazing! It was a true labor of love.
With that said, I’m wondering if I use it to refinish furniture (a hutch and some side tables), should I wait the required weeks of cure time, then topcoat it with a poly? To add durability or would that be overkill? Thank you Jeremy, for these terrific videos and sharing your knowledge. ☮️ ✌🏼
Thanks for the kind words! To your question about painting furniture, you don’t need to do a coat of poly. Advance is a hybrid product so it has a fair amount of oil resins pumped into it. You can think of it like a paint that has poly built into it. Use a good primer, do at least 2 topcoats of Advance. Let it cure, then you’re ready to rip. I’d use the process and products I used in this video for handrails: The Secrets to Painting Your Handrails FAST
ruclips.net/video/N61F9K9cjnA/видео.html
3-5 days to cure sounds pretty good! The adhesion and coverage sounds really good as well. Too bad it runs… I had that problem in the house I just bought- the previous owner used semi-gloss on the walls (cringe)… trying to paint over with satin… we had a lot of drips 🥲 The price is a little high for me, but it is a premium product- so… Thanks for this video!
Hi Mary. Thanks for the compliments. A less expensive product is Duration semi gloss from Sherwin Williams which we like a lot. (If you get the 40% discount the price is manageable).
good grief don't paint WALLS with these paints ... these kind of paints (like Advance) are for trim and cabinets .....
This is not wall paint lol
Wait! You aren't using Advance on a wall are you???
So I just used this paint 4 base high gloss in a bright cobalt blue on a huge piece of furniture. The furniture was stripped, sanded, cleaned with tsp, primed with PPG seal grip gripper tinted gray. I sanded after primer which went on amazing. First coat of this BM high gloss went on very streaky, which I expected. Waited 2 days and it didn’t level much. It’s dark in areas. Second coat went in today, it’s almost not sticking to the first coat, separating once painted. I’ve never had this happen and zero clue what to do. I’ve used this paint on a few other pieces and never had this problem
Hmmm, that’s odd that it’s not gripping to itself. You can try to scuff sand it between coats. I’ve also had a lot of success using the Corona Vegas brushes to apply advance. I’d start with scuff sanding and applying another coat
The rule of thumb used to be Benjamin Moore for interior and Sherwin-Williams for exterior. But that's changing, I do love the aura 4 exteriors as well as interior especially for the walls
yessir. Have used the Aura AND the Regal Select and they both are super awesome for interiors. You get what you pay for is true here
Glad you like them Patrick
Amazing professional information. Thank you!
You’re most welcome! Thanks for watching! 😁
Some of the best information I've seen on this product. Thanks!
Thanks metman. Appreciate the feedback.
Wish I knew about the mineral spirit rinse when I was painting my cabinets….it is tough to clean up brushes!
Hi Claudia. We don't always use mineral spirits with Advance, but it does help. Advance is a brush graveyard. :)
@@SuperVassarBrothers …Ha-Ha! You speak the truth!!✔️
My go to trim finish paint is Aura semi-gloss, but my go to cabinet finish paint is still Satin Impervo oil (Advance satin in our #2 option if the customer prefers a non oil-based product). With factory finished cabinets (never painted), first we use a fast dry oil bonding primer (Zinsser Cover stain) since it achieves scratch resistance really fast and sands super smooth. Satin Impervo oil is better than Advance for cabinets as long as using a solvent based product isn't an issue.
That's a solid move. I want to start incorporating more oil based trim based in our rotation. A lot of times the client wants the old oil trim converted to latex, in which case we'll use a hybrid or use BIN and then go over it with a standard latex. Sometimes I feel like it would just be quicker and better to just use an oil trim paint to start with. I'll give Impervo Satin a try. Thanks for the heads up!
The Satin Impervo has a tendency to yellow fairly quickly. If you do a touch up less than a year later, you will already notice a difference in the colour, especially in low light areas.
Ok I got the advance semi gloss in white for my trim. I found that the semi gloss in advance is almost full gloss! Compared to my old valspar white gloss the advance semi gloss has the same gloss. I went out and got the satin advance and it's perfect. To me the satin advance is the same as other brands semi gloss.
Yes the Advance semi is a bit glossier than most semi glosses out there. We like the satin Advance a lot and are using on a job currently. Glad you like it! The satin does seem similar to other semi glosses, maybe a tad less sheen, but close in my opinion
Would love to see a gallery vs advanced comparison. I can’t find any at the moment.
That would be a good comparison. I've only done a test spray with gallery, so I don't have much experience with it. From what I understand gallery can only be applied with a sprayer. Advance you can spray it or brush and roll it.
excellent information! thank you.
You’re most welcome 🫡
I have Sherwin Williams Classic acrylic painted on wood trim in a bathroom. Contractor did that as part of a bath remodel. We dislike the color. I have always used Ben Moore products in our house for 30 years but made a concession because contractor said they prefer SW. Gonna tackle the repaint myself. What do I need to do to the SW Pro Classic finish to prep it for Ben Moore Advance? I have used Ben Moore Advance on beadboard trim and woodwork in another remodel project I did. Thank you!
Hi Ann. Thanks for the question. A light sand is all you need to do to the Sherwin Williams painted trim. The advance will stick to almost anything. Good luck!
I'm not a professional painter and my biggest concern is brush marks (roping) . In your opinion would this paint show less brush marks are would emerald urethane trim paint be a better choice? Price for me isn't a major concern as I figure I will only need two gallons of trim paint for our 1500 square foot home. I just want to use whatever paint there is out there that will give me the best results as I don't have a sprayer and I will be using a brush only for my trim. Again roping or brush marks are my top concern. Thank you!
Hi there. If brush strokes are your main concern go with Advance. Just check for drips. It has a long open time and you can only do one coat a day. The leveling is fantastic. Happy painting!
@@SuperVassarBrothers thank you!
Used Advance on all my kitchen cabinets ( stripped to the wood, then BM primer) and the finish job is super at semi-gloss level. Hand brushed all parts but cheated on backs of cabinet doors and sprayed with…wait for it…Krylon craft paint. Waited a full week in humid NC between coats. Loooooong process but well worth it.
I just used this in high gloss in a bright cobalt blue for furniture and it’s a disaster right now. Streaky not leveling, separating when painted on.
Paint reviews AND LoTR nerdery?! You have my sub.
Thanks for watching and subscribing! Nasty stinking hobbitses!!
Thanks for this review. I'm thinking about painting my kitchen cabinets with this paint. I'm wondering, though...if I paint the back/inside of the cabinet doors first, will I be able to paint the front after 4-5 hours without damaging the back that I just painted?
Hi Alexandra. You should be fine if you wait 4-6 hours to paint the other side. Try it on one door and see how it goes. If it goes poorly just wait a bit longer until the one side is dry. Good luck!
Try cabinet coat also made by Benjamin Moore.
No way. Not possible. I did some doors. Put a drop cloth on a stack of them after I went to do another coat on others which was after 16 hours. Left a pop can on top of the dropcloth. The pattern was embedded into the paint. I'm even leery to touch the doors after 16 hours with my fingers as I might leave finger prints. I use latex gloves to handle the doors. I've recently sprayed about 12 gallons on doors recently.
Hi Jeremy, my kitchen cabinets have been stained but I would now like to paint them white with BM Advance paint, can I just sand the cabinets, or do they have to be stripped first?
Hi Lisa, You don't have to strip them, definitely sand and you may want to prime them. We haven't done a project like that in a while so check with a good employee or manager at Benny Moore. A primer we like is the Zinsser B-I-N Shellac Base primer which you can find at Home Depot or Lowes. The link is below. The Advance will look great on the cabinets and I do recommend doing a test area if you can, to make sure it will be your desired look. Good luck!
www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-gal-B-I-N-Shellac-Based-White-Interior-Primer-and-Sealer-00901/100398381?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA-71700000075826637-58700006498654198-92700058683659550&gclid=CjwKCAjwve2TBhByEiwAaktM1GCtB5feZckwMJouuH-IjW8JXZrgRYRH8OCsJBGX855Nkf_Lh6-5rhoCTNMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@SuperVassarBrothers Hi Jeremy, thank you for the advice I will follow it.
Used a liquid deglosser
Krud kutter first then prime.
Would like to know how BM Advance compares to Valspar Cabinet & Furniture?
I took a screen shot of your comment, and I'll add this to the list of products to take a look at. I've never used Valspar Cabinet & Furniture, but I'd like to give it a go. Also, your user name is excellent.
"Let's leave these two lovebirds alone"
@@SuperVassarBrothers I was a professional painter for many years and then ran a paint building supply paint department which featured Valspar. The product I mentioned is also a water based urethane hybrid paint specifically designed to dry hard. It's $10 cheaper a gallon cheaper than BM Advance available at Lowes and also recommends thinner at some point to clean brushes. What most concerned me about your review was the 'dripping' aspect of Advance. I plan on using the Valspar and I'll let you know what I think if you'd like.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Hello, wanted to tell you I used the Valspar Cabinet and Furniture paint. It seems very good. We'll see over time how it hold up. Covers very well. Wants to run just like Advance so you have to be consistent applying it....;-) Had no real odor until after a few hours when it began to cure and then smelled similar to oil base enamel. It's a VERY thick product. The finish is very nice a couple days later. I can recommend it at this point. And, it's $10 cheaper. Food for thought.
Another great review! I love the lord of the rings reference
Nice pick up on the Lord of the Rings. Thanks for the kind words.
Hello! I was suggested this product for trims as well. Have you seen how those trims looks after a couple of years? Are they slightly loosing the bright white becoming a little beige looking or tend to be more yellowish over the time? Thank you!
I haven’t noticed fading the trim we’ve done with this product. Emerald urethane might stay brighter longer, but I haven’t compared them long term.
Thank you
🫡
So for trim in an older home with kids and dogs - is the current Regal Select in Pearl really going to under perform compared to Advanced ? What about Scuff X ?
Advance would be the best in terms of durability once it cures. I think it also has the best finish of those products as well.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thank you !
If you remember the good old days when we used oil for all millwork satin impervo was tits this seems to behave alot like that paint and the finish is very similar spray like oil. Thanks for the info guy
Happy to help William. I think they still have impervo. And yes the Advance does seem a lot like it. Easier clean up too.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Satin Impervo is still around and that's what I love to use on woodwork and trim but Advance is very good too. I believe BM is phasing this product out but there was time a few years back that BM was phasing out the Satin Impervo oil and what they tried to do was introduce a Satin Impervo waterborne paint to take it's place. While it leveled out great, it was garbage, it wasn't durable, it did not cure hard at all so any bump would chip it and if you put tape on it, it would peal some of it off. Needless to say, Satin Impervo oil made a comeback and now they are doing away with the SI waterborne. It seems like what BM got wrong with the SI waterborne they got right with Advance.
Finish is great, it bonds really good, dry time good, touch up good, but boy.... If You don't have air flow cranking immediately after coating, There's no hope. If painted too thick this stuff will run from sea to shining sea..!
It's best if you're an actual painter if using this product..!
Agreed! The satin seems to be a bit better with dry times, but you still gotta be careful of putting it on too thick or it’ll run for sure!
This is awesome. “All shall love me and despair.” I bought an old house where the former owner painted over the old oil trim with a stingy light layer of latex… of course. No primer. And it peels, it chips, and when heated, pulls off the oil layer like taffy. So, now I shall suffer and despair. Will this product be OK to use over this mess? Maybe sand it, and then hope that this paint will penetrate through this mess and adhere properly? 🧙♂️ 🧝♀️
Hi Carol. Yes "you shall suffer" :). The best you can do is sand off all loose paint, sometimes cut with a knife as well. Advance will be great for going over the oil paint. If there is latex paint still left over and you paint over it, it may peel up later if someone scratches it. We had a job the other week where someone painted latex over oil. We didn't scrape everything off, just the loose stuff and painted over it with a paint like Advance. It worked great and it wasn't a high traffic so it should be fine.
No. You need to remove any paint not adhering well, do some sanding or use Krud Kutter, then use a bonding primer on the oil that is compatable with latex.
It is a hybrid paint great stuff
Hi Mike, we like the hybrids, especially going over oil trim or other slick trim.
Hey what's up man fellow painter here myself.. we use emerald urethane on our cabinets and trim work... never gotten any complaints and I noticed it drys really really hard.... If what everybody says is correct which I believe that, advance may be a little bit better and have more durability that's cool I don't really care I don't have the 16 hours of dry time and I'm not willing to take a chance of spraying cabinet doors and having them all run.... Nope not going to do it... I put in cup hooks on my doors and hang them up so I can shoot both sides... If I have to stand around and wait for drips they're going to happen regardless like yeah no not down for that brother
Glad to hear you like Emerald Urethane. We like that paint a lot. We did a comparison video here ruclips.net/video/0kdWGKEhXXU/видео.html. We don't spray cabinets, and are thankful for your feedback about it. Always nice to get inside info about a product. Keep fighting the good fight my friend.
I have used it...4 hours to dry...too long for me . But it is a great paint.
Would it be good to use emerald regular wall paint in semigloss for trim ?
A lot of folks do that and it’s a great paint to work with. It’s less durable than a product like Emerald Urethane trim enamel but sometimes that’s not a big factor.
@@SuperVassarBrothers do I need to degloss trim if it’s semi and I’m going over it with semi regular wall paint ?
@@SuperVassarBrothers is the emerald trim paint more glossier ?
Hello thanks i feel like i can finally trust a review of this paint now. Everything else i watched is like a brochure. You said its not your go to trim paint, can i ask what is? And if you're doing more cabinets would this be your go to there?
Here’s our current load out including the trim paint we use:
My New Paint Load Out // 2023
ruclips.net/video/ceynEKT5loc/видео.html
My buddies that do a lot of cabinets also use Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel which is our current go-to trim paint. Advance is good as well and plenty of folks use it on cabinets.
Any need for an extender? When brushing. Didnt catch if it is was hybrid. Woukd an extender work being an alkyd i think you said
Advance is a hybrid and it’s got an incredibly long open time. There’s not a need to put extender in it. If you’re having issues with it drying as you’re working with it then you’re probably over brushing and / or not moving fast enough.
Paid $5 per quart, got two, so $10 but not my preferred color. Small biz sells up-cycled paint for very cheap (all brands) but obviously you need to be flexible on the color. Once I paint the vanity cabinets, I’ll provide feedback. BTW, can I use Advanced with Wagner sprayer?
I have not tried that product through a sprayer like that. I’m actually using it in the field today on some handrails. I have a feeling it’s too thick to go through your Wagner.
I like the review you gave on the Emeral product, would that be a good pain to spray with an Airless sprayer from GRACO?
Hi. We haven't sprayed the Emerald Urethane Paint so I don't have any advice for you on that. Good luck!
IMO, most paints are sprayable with an airless sprayer like a Graco Magnum X5 for example. That’s the one I have and have tried several paints with it with great success. The most important thing is always the prep and the setup of how you will spray it.
I'm doing doors right now with my airless with a 310 tip and they are coming out like the finish on a car. Took me a lot of trial and error though to get to that point.
Do you recommend waterborne for kitchen cabinets?
A lot of the guys that I know that paint cabinets like using Advance or Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel. Both are great options. Just make sure you're giving it enough time to dry between coats.
Good luck with your project!
I have heard that the Benjamin Moore Advance white isn’t ultra white as they have added black to it. Is this true? If so, what similar paint would you recommend for painting kitchen cabinets to have an ultra white finish while maintaining all the pros you listed in the video for Benjamin Moore Advance Paint?
Jay, I haven't heard of BM adding black to the ultra white. Maybe I missed this, but we haven't had issues with it. We use Advance for other trim (we don't do much cabinet painting) and have had no issues with their whites. We like the satin finish in the Advance as well. Good luck!
Seems very white to me.
@@gregkeeyako - yes, it does look white. It’s just not the ULTRA WHITE I was looking for.
@Jay Dee when white looks whiter than white, it's because they add a tad of blue giving an illusion of being whiter. You can't literally make white whiter. I used to work at a BM paint store that my Dad used to own and that's what the Rep told us.
So like a true amateur I didn't read the instructions. I assumed the recoat time was the same as benjamin Moores regal select and applied the 2nd coat after only a couple hrs. What do u guys recommend I do? As of now it seems ok. Do I bother adding a 3rd coat after waiting the recommended 16 hrs?
If you like how it looks then you don’t need to do a 3rd coat. We just used advance in satin this week and we recoated a few hours after we put the first coat on. Dry times can vary widely depending on conditions.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thanks so much for the quick reply. One more thing. Do u guys think a clear coat is needed as well?
I use UTE from emerald and have never had To use Mineral Spirits 🤔
I use a little bit of dish soap and then some hand sanitizer on the brushes that I use UTE with. That’s working pretty good for me currently.
I'm a Benjamin Moore guy. I grew up in the trade using Benny more
Appreciate your honesty. We love Benny Moore for Exterior and certain interior paints. The Advance satin has treated us well recently.
Anyone have an update on how this paint holds up on kitchen cabinets after a few years? Particularly the satin finish....
It’s still one of the more popular products used to repaint cabinets. If it’s applied properly it holds up well.
Good info!
I’m glad you found it useful!
@@SuperVassarBrothers Yes, in fact I bought it today to soon paint my kitchen cabinets.
Love this paint, just don’t rush the process (remember to account for humidity, if that’s prevalent @ the job site). Shout out to Ben Moore for developing their Stix Primer - best primer I’ve ever used, hands down. Completely agree about runs w/ Advance, be careful in vertical applications. When painting new wood, paint components horizontally before assembly. Assemble carefully after 6 hours (accounting for humidity), then touch up w/ roller or brush, applying only as much as is needed for coverage & blending. Stix primer + Advance topcoats is my new favorite for new work.
I’m not sure if I’ve ever used Stix but I’ve heard good things about it. I’m a big fan of fresh start. We’ve been using quite a bit of it recently. I’ll give Stix a try when I next get a chance 🫡
What I’d your go to paint
It really depends on what the application is. Check out the rest of our channel for my reviews of paints. I go over almost all of my favorites.
What you reccomend for cabinets.? That’s paint
Advance or Emerald Urethane from Sherwin Williams. Those are two of the most used paints on cabinets right now.
Hello there. Do we need top coat over the last paint layer? Thank you.
I am not sure precisely what you mean by that. If you’re using Advance then that’s the finish paint. Once you put however many coats of Advance on your trim, doors or whatever, then just let it dry and you’re good to go.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thank you. That is the answer I was looking for.
What primer works best with this paint?
That has more to do with what surface you are priming. Advance is fairly forgiving as far as what surfaces it will stick to because it has a high degree of adhesion.
You can check out this video on what to prime if you'd like more details on primers:
ruclips.net/video/mEUZaXQpx2g/видео.html
Have you heard of Beyond Paint? Opinionn on it?
I’ve heard of it, but I’ve never used it so I don’t have an informed opinion on the matter.
There is a lot of hybrid paint in the uk now they leave a finish just as good as a oil based product probably johnstones is the best ive used
I’ve never heard of that brand, but I’ll check it out. And I agree, the hybrids have come a long way. We use quite a few of them in our work. 🫡
@@SuperVassarBrothers i dont know if they sell it in the USA but great paint every decorator over here swears by it
I painted cabinets and never waited 16 hours. I just go ahead and 4 hours after. They're in my house and excellent conditions
Dry times can vary depending on conditions in the room. We've definitely managed two coats in a day with Advance.
I wonder if spraying would have to do vary light coats ?
If you are using a sprayer it's more about doing an even coat than a light coat. Generally you're going to end up doing two coats, maybe more depending on the color.
Not very light but not too heavy either. Advance will run
What primer can I use with this paint???
Most primers should work with this paint. Good luck Homero!
Can i use over oil based paint?
Yes you can. Most of the time you can scuff sand the oils based trim and then go right over it with Advance. I’d recommend doing a test spot to see if you get a good bond. If it doesn’t bond well then you may need to use a bonding primer like fresh start or BIN shellac.
What is your go to trim paint?
Hi William. We like Duration trim paint from Sherwin Williams. Our review is here. ruclips.net/video/aQ92jqiak3c/видео.html
Have 30 y/o wood cabniets (Merrillat Amherts cherry - ie medium brown) don't have $$ to do replacments cabniets want to use BM Advance to paint a similar brown color. Can't find anyone that's done it. (know the trend is lighter paint colors but I like wood) Is that bc it will just look bad or just not trending now. Thanks
Most people that paint cabinets want them to look “painted”. The popular colors right now for painted cabinets are various whites, grays, gray blues and so forth. But if you like the color you picked out then go for it. They’re your cabinets!
Nice review. You say that it’s not your go-to for trim paint; what IS your go-to paint for trim? (Oh, and I love the LOTR nod!)
Hi Paul, appreciate the comment. We like Duration semi gloss from Sherwin Williams. Its a little hard to get at the moment due to supply shortages. Here's our video on it (It's one of our earlier ones, but people seem to like it). Have a good one! ruclips.net/video/aQ92jqiak3c/видео.html
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thanks for prompt reply!
On a separate but related note, I’m an avid DIY woodworker. Do you have a video that discusses HVLP sprayers vs airless sprayers? I’m not sure which would be best for my needs. And which models of each would you recommend? I build furniture and casework. But I may also be refinishing cabinets for my home. Thx!
@@ptortland Advance has a hard time in my 4 stage airless. I have to thin it more than the recommended rate to get it through even with a big tip. I'm doing doors with my airless with a 310 tip and its spraying flawlessly..
Ive always thought of "open time" as the time you have to brush/ work the paint, before it starts to set up??? "drag" if brushing... which is critical in a review... some of these waterborne paints... are very close to being spray application only...
Again?????
Hi John. Thanks for the comment. Advance has a very long open time where you can touch up (more with the semi gloss than the satin). The reocat time is recommended for 16 hours, but you can recoat faster if you want to live on the wild side :)
I get what your saying, I just used fine paints of europe eco, seemed like as soon as I seen a run it was also locking up, drove me crazy
Was going to use this product to paint my stair railing, would you recommend for that job?
Hi Corey. Yes Advance should work well. Also Ben Moore has another product we used a few times, but unfortunately I forget what it was called. If you go to the store ask them what they would recommend. May be a more industrial base. But Advance would work well too.
Hi again Corey. I found out the name of the product. Its Super Spec Urethane Alkyd Gloss Enamel. Under their 'Maintenance Coatings' line. Good luck!
Thanks!!
Hi Corey, One more thing...... For the Super Spec if you go with a lighter color such as a white it may yellow over time due to having polyurethane in the paint. We really like the paint for dark colors. Just wanted you to be aware.
Hello I’m painting my cabinets can advance be used with a airless sprayer?
Hi Yolanda. We haven't sprayed with Advance, but many guys do. On the side of the can it should have the spray recommendations. Good luck!
It sprays wonderfully with an airless. I've experimented with a few tips and I do a beautiful job with a 210.
I use a 210 tip 12" away 50% overlap. Slower than I though I would go and my doors are coming out with an automobile finish.
If it dries to the touch in 4 to 6 hours...why wait 16 hours for the second coat ? Soon as any paint I use is dry to the touch I immediatlely do a second coat.
Dry to the touch means that it won't come off on your fingers when you touch it. If you tried it you'd see what I'm talking about. After a few hours it won't come off on you hands, but it's still soft cause it hasn't cured all the way through. If you try and recoat too soon then the second coat won't go on well and the brush will drag. Then the finish will look like crap. We can get it to try faster using fans and the satin does dry quite a bit quicker than the semi-gloss.
@@SuperVassarBrothers I know what dry touch is..my question is if paint is dry to the touch after 4 hours....why would you wait another 12 hours to apply the second coat ?
@@fairamir1 he just told you why. It hasn't cured all the way through the paint layer and you will F-up the job if you dont let advance dry 16 hours that's why. You can read on the side of the can. Benjamin Moore says to wait 16 hours. Of course you can do what you want.
@@gregkeeyako I always do my second coat as soon as the first coat is dry to the touch....average 15 minutes depending on the paint. You do not need paint to cure to do a second coat. Also it takes 3 to 5 days for paint to cure. I paint my second coat quaickly after the first caost. I have had no problems ever in 28 years
@@fairamir1 if you say so. I wonder why manufacturers put those instructions on the side of the can???
Brilliant Lord of the Rings intro!
Thanks Rt L. Hope you had a great weekend!
You are perfection my friend! Greece!
I'd like to think so. Flattery will get you everywhere.
@@SuperVassarBrothers you must to think so because you are perfection my friend! I am from Greece and i don't speak very well American language but i understand everything you say in this video! Thanks 🙏
Is primer required for bare wood?
Indeed it is. I'd recommend using a good Wall and Wood primer for bare wood.
It will not bond to oil paint unless you sand it to a really dull finish and it will bond better but if you have to paint anything over oil and it's not oil base paint, prime it first!
It’s hit or miss with the oils. Most of the time we use BIN shellac when we’re converting trim.
Confession time...I cheated, and only waited 10 to 12 hours. What's the worst that can happen? Does the 1st coat never cure? This is for my house, so I'm not too worried, but would like to know if I use it for a job. After using roller/brush, I lightly sanded between coats with 320 screen and it didn't clog or peel (boogers and dog hair).
That’s plenty of time. It really depends on drying conditions. We’ve done two coats within an 8 hour period and push dried it with fans. The big thing is to give it a chance to cure all the way through before you put anything on it or expose the surface to hard use. Like if you painted a window sill, don’t put potted plants on it for at least 72 hours.
MDF is ok without primer?
I’d probably prime that before painting it. Not all MDFs are created equal, so I’d prime it to be on the safe side.
I find it take a month or two to fully cure fir high use
It does take quite a while to cure all the way through depending on drying conditions.
What is your go to cabinet paint, and ceiling paint, andain't? Paint?
We don't paint cabinets much. If I had to, Ben Moore Advance in satin or semi. Ceiling we like Promar Ceiling paint from Sherwin Williams. Hope this helps!
the cure time for this is alot longer than 3-5 days
I'd have to check the can again. Good finish tho
i just painted areas of my home using the ben moore line for the walls, trim and doors in different finishes, semi gloss for the trim,doorsbaseboards and eggshell for the walls and its been an absolute nightmare. for the trim and doors especially. the finished look is horrible. the brush strokes are so distracting and dizzying to look at, the drag while painting, the uneven altered sheens that came through, so many coats just to cover and even out the color and coverage and its not a smooth finish at all. i had a painter do the work and i bought the paint. ive used triple the amount of paint it seems and double the cost of labor. ben is not a cheap line either. but i cant stand the trim. the painter did not forewarn me about this and make any recommendations until after it was painted when i said ive never seen trim look like this. he then suggested i use regal or aura if i wanted that ultra smooth finish. never mentioned advanced until i started doing this research. the advanced sounds a little bit difficult with the drying time and the labor again. to redo the trim after what ive already invested makes me very frustrated and sick to my stomach because im so sick of dealing with this but i cant accept the trim as it is. ive used a bm line because of the color which is same color used in most of my house for matching purposes. besides the advance, is there anything else that you would recommend that would still be better than what i currently have? ive heard the aura is good for trim and could go easily over the ben line i used without any more prep work? im not so sure about using the advance even though it sounds exactly like the finished result i want. im also unsure about the prep work for using the advance to repaint the trim. the painter should know but i feel he should of known this beforehand as the professional which im not happy about. he is willing to make it right. im assuming with the advance you cant just paint over the ben paint i just used and it would not be that simple? does it need to be sanded and primed again? again, would the regal or aura at least make it look a lot better and closer to what i wanted? any help or recommendations you have i would greatly appreciate it. i have no idea at this point what to use, i just dont want to have the same issue again. its not only the cost, but the time and energy this has taken with horrible results.
Thank you for your time
First off, I am sorry for what you’re currently experiencing. That is no fun.
I would not recommend Aura or Regal for trim. We’ve been having issues with those products after they went through reformulations.
Here’s my recommendation and feel free to take it or leave it:
1) Ask your painter what he prefers using and gets the best results with and have him use that. Most paints can be tinted to whatever color you want.
2) Try Emerald Urethane trim enamel in your preferred Benny Moore color. That’s our current favorite trim paint.
3) Try Command in a satin finish from Benny Moore. It’s very similar to Emerald Urethane and works really well.
Lastly, if your painter can’t get the results your looking for with their preferred product or the other two that I mentioned, then you may want to try another painter. I hesitate to throw the painter under the bus because I haven’t seen their work.
There’s my two cents for what it’s worth.
I have 90s medium tone wood cabinets I want to paint. It must originally been sprayed with some sort of polyurethane type factory finish but much of that has come off with wear, so about a year ago I used oil soap followed by Howard's Feed-n-wax. So my question is, do I need to prime before using the Advance paint? If yes, can I use Kilz which is cheaper? Thanks for the great video!!
Thanks for the feedback Kristin. Tough for us to give you an exact recommendation without seeing your cabinets. I would recommend sanding and priming your cabinets just to be safe. Our favorite primer at the moment is the Zinsser BIN shellac based primer (attached link at end of comment). You could do a test area as well to make sure you like the finish. The Satin finish in Advance has a nice look. The semi gloss is good, but really shiny. Good luck! www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-gal-B-I-N-Shellac-Based-White-Interior-Primer-and-Sealer-00901/100398381?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA-71700000075826637-58700006498654198-92700058683659550&gclid=CjwKCAjw7IeUBhBbEiwADhiEMfRUQfOvL8KXuC6O_4lHL7nQUD9hr4tAxAHRU4h5TTxlrIWvxBKLWhoC4BUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
What about sandability?
It dries hard, but you can sand if needed. We like the Satin finish a lot. Takes less time to dry as well.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thank you for your reply.
I sand between coats with 220 and my doors are coming out with an automobile finish.
@@gregkeeyako thanks for the reply
3-5 days for cure? I’ve been reading 30 days and I don’t want to wait that long. 😅
3 - 5 days sounds right. It says so on the can. Forgot off the top of my head.
@@SuperVassarBrothers can says optimal hardness 5-7 days.
I used this interior paint in my kitchen and it took no more than five days to cure. I love my cabinets and would use and recommend this paint 💯
The deep, dark colors can still be tacky for up to 30 days
if its a oil base product it will go yellow in time
It's a hybrid, so there are oil resins in the formulation. From what I've seen it doesn't yellow as much as a traditional oil based paint like Satin Impervo, but even that is not generally a big deal.
I did my trim 6 years ago. No yellowing.
It smells bad. It's been about three weeks and it's off gassing bad. Can't put the pantry doors in the house.
Advance definitely has an odor to it, as do all of the hybrids. It's not nearly as bad as an oil like Impervo Satin, but some folks are more sensitive to it than others. If you want to accelerate the curing / off gassing process then you can put them in a garage and run a fan on them. That'll scoot things along.
dont see the point in using these water alkyd paints might as well just stick with solvent especially cause you have to use turps still
Hi Jack. Recently we've been having luck with just water clean up. Also the smell is substantially less than most solvent based paints. Some guys love the solvents and they do have their benefits.
Water clean up is a big plus. In some States I don't believe you can even buy oil paint.
@@autohelix alright surprised by that here in the U.K. thats all me and my guys use ive never used water paints on trim work.
@@jackwardley3626 Certain States like California are very strict on environmental regulations. Paints that are high in VOC are not allowed, and well oil based and solvent based paints are very high in VOC.
@@autohelix wouldn't want to be a painter in those states then.
soap and water ....thatts it
I’ve been adding a little dish soap and that’s been working well. Soap and water 🤙
forever to cure and it yellows
Agreed. The bright whites definitely amber out over time.
😂💨
🤙
I didn't watch the vid , I just wanna say loved the thumbnail , "thou shalt not dry" ,,, hilarious .... and ain't that the truth .... I have a feeling BM may add some chemicals soon to remedy that because EVERYONE points that slow dry time out about Advance .... might as well us oil , and it does drag bad if you hit it too early
Thank you sir. We'll see how the paint changes over time :)
The purpose of this paint is it performs like an oil paint, but with water clean up.
It acts like an oil and looks like an oil with the benefits of a waterborne paint.
@@gregkeeyako Ya I know , I'm a painter ..... Emerald dries ten times faster and is more user friendly ...... I have a vid on using Emerald
@@shure46 this is super slow drying paint. I use stack racks. A few days ago a couple doors looked well flashed over so after about 5 hours I flipped them to do the other side. Then I stacked them. Well the paint ran and dripped in a few areas. About 3 days later I wet sanded and the paint more or less dissolved. Before that I took a sharp chisel and used it to cut off the drips. The surface was dry but under that there was still "gummy" wet paint. So its very easy to sand as the water I used turned into watered down paint. A very odd paint to use but once you get used to it is a great finish. Buy yeah. Primer and 2 coats on these 30 doors is taking forever.
ABSOLUTELY HATE THIS PAINT!! Been a Professional Fine Painter for over 20 years. I tried this paint and must say, the paint seems thin and it doesn't work well if you are painting a light color over a dark one. It runs!! Even when sprayed, because the open time is longer than a regular paint time making therefore more time to run. I used a primer before applying this shitty paint. I wouldn't recommend it!! The Fine Paints from Europe costs a bit more but worth it. Cure time about 3 weeks, it will dry to touch faster than he says, but it will literally peel off in a few hours.
Thanks for the feedback Javier. We have had good results with brush and roller with the Advance satin. Never sprayed it tho. We do use Emerald Urethane in semi gloss as well.
I agree I've been in it 36 years and I'm not impressed with this video. I'm old school fresh start Benjamin Moore primer super semi-gloss enamel top coat for cabinets 💪👍 .
Must be a different advance. I spray this with a 210 on trim and doors and love it. I must say it has a huge learning curve. I tried s lot of tips and pressures and did a lot of runs to get where I am. I've probably sprayed now 25 gallons of it and my doors are coming out like the side of a car.
Did you spray on a spraying booth, with the doors hanging?? How many coats? Sanded in between? Because my experience was, even with a 800 grit sand paper, the paint would start to come off, this was after a couple of days. I used it 3 times and it behaved pretty much the same.
@@javierchacone I'm doing 30 house doors right now. I'm spraying them on saw horses using stakracks.
Too expensive!
It hasn’t gotten any cheaper since this video came out.
Thumbs down for saying "hot minute"
That's fair
NOT good paint I don't understand why people say BM Advance paint is great. I have been painting for years and it is the WORST paint I have ever used. It is nothing it says it is. It has no working time, does not lay off well, and does not level at all. Bought the prime and brush they recommend. I just did my new trim and all I see is brush marks. I returned the first gallon and tried a second, same poor results. I recommend avoiding this paint at all costs.
Thanks JDS. Appreciate the feedback.
What trim paint do you use, JDS?
Must be a different Advance. I love this paint.