Mounting Exterior Light Through Brick Wall
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2021
- Need to install an external light, but you have a brick wall. Fear not with a few simple tools you can create an opening for mounting your new light and get power to it from a nearby switch or outlet. Join us for the experience.
As always if you are unsure of your skills, higher a trained professional as the misuse of the tools and procedures used here can result in death or injury. Never work with a live electrical circuit. 
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Spring honey do list! Thanks for the detailed video.
Very helpful! I already had the box mounted in the brick but was replacing the 1992 fixture that came with the house. Seeing how you attached the mounting plate to the box made me feel dumb that I didn't think of doing it that way! (I was SURE that it wasn't going to work) haha Thanks for the video!
The exact video i was looking for. Thanks!!
Hope that it helps you with the project. Thanks for watching.
Hey thanks a lot for making this video my man. You really taught me something new!!!
Arsenio, good to hear you got something out of our video. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Thanks sir! This video helped me alot! I did the job by myself and this video 👍🏼👍🏼😄
Congrats on getting the job done. Delighted to hear my video helped you out. Thanks for watching.
I have extremely mixed feelings about this video. On one hand it validated what I was planning on doing. On the other hand the electrical box you installed on the outside caused a problem that took me quite a bit of time to figure out an approach to resolve..
I would like too suggest a modification to this video in order to help others not fall into the mess I am now having to resolve.
The square box you used on the outside can be too wide for some of the outdoor lights. Had I out the box vertical I would not have any issue with the outdoor light covering the opening in the brick. My work around was to purchase a natural bamboo turntable (10" x 1"), drill a hole in the center that is large enough to feel the wires thru, feed the wires thru and connect this to the wall (either screws or heavy glue, and finally attach the outdoor light to the wood (after connecting all the wires). I happened to select black to paint the wood with. I almost purchased copper, but I will see how I like the black over time.
Again, the video was helpful in validating my approach, but using a non-circular box is a mistake in some instances.
One other item of interest. There are 2 depths of electrical boxes: the "normal" and the "deeper" box. Given your idea of screwing the outside box in the back (FANTASTIC AND EXTREMELY HELPFUL IDEA), the deeper box made that easier. In my case, I had plenty of depth to use the deep box.
Thank you for making this video!
Thank you for sharing your experience. I repurposed the metal box for this project as I didn't want to cut beyond a single brick. I too was concerned with covering the opening with the fixture. Congrats on finding a solution, as these projects seldom go as easy as the TV version.
Thank you this is what I was looking for. If I was doing two lights to the same switch would I have to terminate before or at the switch.
If I was adding another light on the same switch I would pig tail the wires from the switch so each light gets power. Don't double up the wires onto the terminals, use pig tails. For more info on pig tails check out ruclips.net/video/95Nfk8ouS_M/видео.html at 18:54. In the video I am pig tailing receptacles just pretend they are lights. Hope this helps.
Nice video. Very in-depth. Could you have used mortar to fill back in the j box?
You certainly could use mortar on the sides of the j box, the idea is to make it waterproof. As to using it in the back of the j box, I needed to secure the back of the box with a screw and didn't want any material getting on the cable. The mortar in the caulk tube is clean and easy to work without any mixing. Thanks for the question.
Thank you for sharing.
Hope it was helpful, thanks for watching.
I like to use a oscillating tool (buzz saw) for cutting dry wall and paneling. Goes fast, easy to control, and leaves smooth edges. You might also try using a long pair of diagonal cutting pliers (Harbor Freight sells a great diagonal cutter for about $8.00 USD) to grab the nail shanks inside the metal boxes and lever them out. This usually works well.
You are so right! I finally got a Dremel multitool ruclips.net/video/fny_JAbUonI/видео.html , it is the best power tool invented. While the Dremel brand might not be my first choice I love the many things you can do with the oscillating saw. I also been meaning to get some long diagonal pliers, but for getting the metal boxes out I find the cats paw (nail puller) works really well. Thank you for watching and sharing your tips.
What would you do if the wall was solid bricks?
If the wall consisted of single layer of brick, I would consider drilling a hole to run wire to an external weatherized mounted box.
How long was the screw that you needed ?
If you are referring to the fastener used at about 18:25 in the video to secure the box, it is 10 x 3-1/8". It was deep enough to go into the plywood without getting into the paneling. thanks for watching.
It would have been more efficient to rent a diamond hole saw and use and hexagonal box
It would have been at least $80 to rent if avail in my area, and then it has to be secured to wall. This method is less costly and doable by most people. Your right about using a hex box, but I only wanted to drill into a single brick and use the box that I already had. Thank you for sharing your insight.