Hah, I just put the steering rack in back wards last week in the 740il. Gave me a good laugh when you were remembering how to identify left right as I remembered it wrong. DOH!
Thanks for watching. Don't buy Eurocaparts Starline drive shafts. The boot split within three years and 30K miles of installation.... Very disappointing..
Is it an absolute certainty that the trans fluid will piss out? If I drained with the plug into a measured container and did the work would that avoid it leaking and then replace the dropped fluid with fresh? The filter was done about 10k ago so don’t want to take the pan off and drain it’s all fresh
Mine is a Tiptronic Auto box. On the ramp (on the level) it pours out when the drive shaft is removed. . I don't know how much is lost - it may be only a little. So long as you wash the area with brake cleaner and filter the fluid before you put it back in the gearbox it should be OK to re-use. i.e. Maybe if you have supported on one side at an angle then only a bot will run out. I have had my B class from new and it is currently at 188K miles. Since there are big demands made on the oil by the CVT drive, I always change the trans fluid every 50 to 60K miles. The original oil seals on mine lasted to 176k when the drivers side started to weep. So if you have it apart and your car is high mileage you might want to consider changing the oil seals.
Hi there. Thanks for making and posting the video. Got my 56 plate b180 recovered back to my drive yesterday. It broke down taking my son back to uni 🙄. Total loss of drive (forward or backwards). Unlike in another youtube video I watched though, the shaft doesn't spin when in neutral. Makes a nasty chattering/clicking sound when putting it back into Park. Recently laid out £1k having the transmission ecu repaired after limp mode and warning message (diagnosis was 0717 fault code). Could this fault. Relate to that work and should it have been spotted? Many thanks for any help.
The drive shaft would rotate when you are parked and transmission is set to DRIVE and someone is sitting in the car with a foot firmly on the brake else it would be dangerous to reach underneath to feel the shaft rotating just in case the splines catch and it starts to move. If you get clattering when you move into park then this is consistent with a knackered drive shaft. Note the could have pulled the UJ from the shaft and failed to push it back on to engage the locking spring ring. If you were testing in neutral then have another check. Jack it up and see if you can spin one wheel in whilst the transmission is in park whilst the other wheel is still on the ground.
Nice one,, as yet another great video from you nicely explained so anyone who didn’t know would understand, ps I’m jealous of your post lift I still jack my up 🤣🤣🤣👍
Glad you enjoyed it. I had 45 years of jacking and gravel in my shirt and road dust in my eyes. The list was not that expensive (~£1200) compared to mechanics fees. You also get to buy a good second hand cars and get the true life out of them. It makes for very cheap motoring. There are 5 cars in our household.
@@razenby yes I totally agree we’ve 6 cars to play with but my problem is no room for one 😢😢 I do love your videos so please carry on, by the way have I missed the one were you where going to try and zap ⚡️ dead cars batteries to bring them back to life???
Get someone in the car and with the hand and foot brake on and put it in drive then look under the car bay the wheels and see if the drive shaft is rotating on either side. If you can see it rotating then the drive shaft has failed it is likely that you just need a new drive shaft (~150) for the part plus about 1hr 20 mins labour.. Check the dash gear selection indicator mimics the position of the the shifter. Are there any warning light on the dash? Do you hear any strange noises?
Hi, do you know what parts of the exhaust must be detached if I want to lower a little the rear part of the engine to replace belt and pulleys? Will you make a video about that? Thank you :-)
@@razenby Hi, sorry for late reply. I have a clunking and I suspect it's the sway bar bushing. I read on WIS that it's necessary to lift up a little bit the radiator, remove the final front part of the subframe (named "radiator frame support" or something like that, it's attached with 3 bolts to the subframe) and then make the sway bar slide under the radiator. It seems not an easy job, I'll have to think about it well
I've found oem rubber bushings from China. Honestly I don't know if they're quality, but removing them from the bar and replacing them probably it's a lot easier job than replacing the entire bar. I don't know if genuine bushings will come off, I was thinking of using chisel and hammer, hoping it could detach from the bar.
Hi, very informative and DIY inspiring videos. I also had to have CV boots changed. Please explain or upload the procedure to change CVT transmission oil in this car. How did you measure the levels and what were the levels?
Ahh I should have done that video. The refill capacity is stated in the manual. You need to buy or make a dipstick to check the level. Note the aftermarket dip sticks for sale on eBay are wrong. I went to the Mercedes dealer and measure one and temporarily converted the engine dipstick with a pair of grip pliers and some Tipex. The first time I did it I drained the torque converter. I only got a couple of hundred mL of oil out of it so the second time I didn't bother. Beware if you are buying a filter kit on Ebay as they supply the wrong gasket. I recommend getting the kit from a OEM Mercedes parts supplier.
Cant really say. My 2.0 litre in a B189CDI Sport W245 has done 190K miles and is on the original belt tensioners. Apart from regular services and oil change the only issues I have had is the thermostat x 1, 1 x Glow plug, EGR clean (done as maintenance). Turbo x 1 (I am not enturel sure the old one was faulty) , lower control arms x 2 (maintenance TRW fitted at 120K), 1 x front right drive shaft, 3 sets of disks and pads, 1 x brake light switch and some corrosion on the rear wiper motor (soldered connections). 1 set of rubber mounting grommets for the air box to stop it rattling. Rear axle brake pipe replaced as got crusty. Only the driveshaft stopped the car and that was my fault as I didn't reassemble correctly when I changed the boot. Still drives like new. Needs new rear brake back plates. They are getting a little thin.
I'd be a bit worried at having to hammer a drive shaft in the last 10mm. What was holding it - going into the seal? As you say after 150k you ought to have changed the seal but a chance most of us would take. Are you going post a picture of stripped splines?
Wife has lost confidence in me - I can see it in her eyes, Don't worry. I didn't say hammer I said TAP!! You only have to worry about a hammer when it isn't wielded by an engineer, The new gaters were fitted at about 90K . With hindsight I should have fitted new drive shafts. Would have avoided a breakdown. The gaters that are available are crap and are an approximate fit. Generic rubbish. The strip down and gearbox oil change and dipstick creation is in the next video.
@@razenby Agreed - so just the shaft tight on the seal I expect. There's an old joke about a precision engineer being someone who uses a 2lb hammer to fix something and charges £100 £1 to hit it and £99 to know where and how hard 😀
@@markdauncey927 Nice one. It was stuck on the splines. I checked it with a micrometer it and the new shaft was 1.5 thousandths bigger in dia across the splines. The plain part was spot-on. . My dad used to say when you only have a hammer everything starts to look like a nail!!
My driveshaft just broke at 110,000km. Biggest problem was removing the axle nutz the rest went nice and easy. Might have broken a wheel bearing in the process...
Hah, I just put the steering rack in back wards last week in the 740il.
Gave me a good laugh when you were remembering how to identify left right as I remembered it wrong. DOH!
Oh no.. I bet the air was blue!!
Very well explained and easy to understand thank you.
Thanks for watching
brill vid, gr8 help,,, 165k , im expecting this anytime, but not worried now. thanx
Thanks for watching. Don't buy Eurocaparts Starline drive shafts. The boot split within three years and 30K miles of installation.... Very disappointing..
I’m have the manual 2013 looking to buy an automatic 2012 so thanks for sharing this info
Ours is currently at 188K miles and still drives like new!!! Great cars.
Good video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Is it an absolute certainty that the trans fluid will piss out? If I drained with the plug into a measured container and did the work would that avoid it leaking and then replace the dropped fluid with fresh? The filter was done about 10k ago so don’t want to take the pan off and drain it’s all fresh
Mine is a Tiptronic Auto box. On the ramp (on the level) it pours out when the drive shaft is removed. . I don't know how much is lost - it may be only a little. So long as you wash the area with brake cleaner and filter the fluid before you put it back in the gearbox it should be OK to re-use. i.e. Maybe if you have supported on one side at an angle then only a bot will run out. I have had my B class from new and it is currently at 188K miles. Since there are big demands made on the oil by the CVT drive, I always change the trans fluid every 50 to 60K miles. The original oil seals on mine lasted to 176k when the drivers side started to weep. So if you have it apart and your car is high mileage you might want to consider changing the oil seals.
Vielen Dank! Das Video ist sehr gut! Ich fotografiere auch über dieses Auto
No problem. Thanks for watching.
Hi there.
Thanks for making and posting the video.
Got my 56 plate b180 recovered back to my drive yesterday.
It broke down taking my son back to uni 🙄.
Total loss of drive (forward or backwards).
Unlike in another youtube video I watched though, the shaft doesn't spin when in neutral.
Makes a nasty chattering/clicking sound when putting it back into Park.
Recently laid out £1k having the transmission ecu repaired after limp mode and warning message (diagnosis was 0717 fault code). Could this fault. Relate to that work and should it have been spotted?
Many thanks for any help.
The drive shaft would rotate when you are parked and transmission is set to DRIVE and someone is sitting in the car with a foot firmly on the brake else it would be dangerous to reach underneath to feel the shaft rotating just in case the splines catch and it starts to move. If you get clattering when you move into park then this is consistent with a knackered drive shaft. Note the could have pulled the UJ from the shaft and failed to push it back on to engage the locking spring ring. If you were testing in neutral then have another check. Jack it up and see if you can spin one wheel in whilst the transmission is in park whilst the other wheel is still on the ground.
Nice one,, as yet another great video from you nicely explained so anyone who didn’t know would understand, ps I’m jealous of your post lift I still jack my up 🤣🤣🤣👍
Glad you enjoyed it. I had 45 years of jacking and gravel in my shirt and road dust in my eyes. The list was not that expensive (~£1200) compared to mechanics fees. You also get to buy a good second hand cars and get the true life out of them. It makes for very cheap motoring. There are 5 cars in our household.
@@razenby yes I totally agree we’ve 6 cars to play with but my problem is no room for one 😢😢 I do love your videos so please carry on, by the way have I missed the one were you where going to try and zap ⚡️ dead cars batteries to bring them back to life???
I have lost drive and reverse. Any way you can recommend a garage or mechanic. I am in London
Get someone in the car and with the hand and foot brake on and put it in drive then look under the car bay the wheels and see if the drive shaft is rotating on either side. If you can see it rotating then the drive shaft has failed it is likely that you just need a new drive shaft (~150) for the part plus about 1hr 20 mins labour.. Check the dash gear selection indicator mimics the position of the the shifter. Are there any warning light on the dash? Do you hear any strange noises?
@@razenby there is a message on the dash Transmission visit workshop , the drive selection on the dashboard is same as the gear selection
I hear a loud bang noise before it eventually shifts gear
Hi, do you know what parts of the exhaust must be detached if I want to lower a little the rear part of the engine to replace belt and pulleys? Will you make a video about that? Thank you :-)
Hi, great video! Thank you. A question: did you ever replace the entire sway bar? Is it a hard job? Thank you :-)
Thanks. No, i've never had to. What is up with it?
@@razenby Hi, sorry for late reply. I have a clunking and I suspect it's the sway bar bushing. I read on WIS that it's necessary to lift up a little bit the radiator, remove the final front part of the subframe (named "radiator frame support" or something like that, it's attached with 3 bolts to the subframe) and then make the sway bar slide under the radiator. It seems not an easy job, I'll have to think about it well
I've found oem rubber bushings from China. Honestly I don't know if they're quality, but removing them from the bar and replacing them probably it's a lot easier job than replacing the entire bar. I don't know if genuine bushings will come off, I was thinking of using chisel and hammer, hoping it could detach from the bar.
Hi, very informative and DIY inspiring videos.
I also had to have CV boots changed.
Please explain or upload the procedure to change CVT transmission oil in this car.
How did you measure the levels and what were the levels?
Ahh I should have done that video. The refill capacity is stated in the manual. You need to buy or make a dipstick to check the level. Note the aftermarket dip sticks for sale on eBay are wrong. I went to the Mercedes dealer and measure one and temporarily converted the engine dipstick with a pair of grip pliers and some Tipex. The first time I did it I drained the torque converter. I only got a couple of hundred mL of oil out of it so the second time I didn't bother. Beware if you are buying a filter kit on Ebay as they supply the wrong gasket. I recommend getting the kit from a OEM Mercedes parts supplier.
Hello. what engine do you recommend for diesel? 1.8 with 109 hp or 2.0 with 140 hp?. thanks
Cant really say. My 2.0 litre in a B189CDI Sport W245 has done 190K miles and is on the original belt tensioners. Apart from regular services and oil change the only issues I have had is the thermostat x 1, 1 x Glow plug, EGR clean (done as maintenance). Turbo x 1 (I am not enturel sure the old one was faulty) , lower control arms x 2 (maintenance TRW fitted at 120K), 1 x front right drive shaft, 3 sets of disks and pads, 1 x brake light switch and some corrosion on the rear wiper motor (soldered connections). 1 set of rubber mounting grommets for the air box to stop it rattling. Rear axle brake pipe replaced as got crusty. Only the driveshaft stopped the car and that was my fault as I didn't reassemble correctly when I changed the boot. Still drives like new. Needs new rear brake back plates. They are getting a little thin.
@@razenby but can it be repaired at home? I saw that it is difficult with the engine. I have a minimum of tools
@@razenby
@@razenby
I'd be a bit worried at having to hammer a drive shaft in the last 10mm.
What was holding it - going into the seal?
As you say after 150k you ought to have changed the seal but a chance most of us would take.
Are you going post a picture of stripped splines?
Wife has lost confidence in me - I can see it in her eyes, Don't worry. I didn't say hammer I said TAP!! You only have to worry about a hammer when it isn't wielded by an engineer, The new gaters were fitted at about 90K . With hindsight I should have fitted new drive shafts. Would have avoided a breakdown. The gaters that are available are crap and are an approximate fit. Generic rubbish. The strip down and gearbox oil change and dipstick creation is in the next video.
@@razenby
Agreed - so just the shaft tight on the seal I expect.
There's an old joke about a precision engineer being someone who uses a 2lb hammer to fix something and charges £100
£1 to hit it and £99 to know where and how hard 😀
@@markdauncey927 Nice one. It was stuck on the splines. I checked it with a micrometer it and the new shaft was 1.5 thousandths bigger in dia across the splines. The plain part was spot-on. . My dad used to say when you only have a hammer everything starts to look like a nail!!
That's the risk with pattern parts - at least that end doesn't have to slide.
Q Drive are a brand I'd have been happy to use.
My driveshaft just broke at 110,000km. Biggest problem was removing the axle nutz the rest went nice and easy. Might have broken a wheel bearing in the process...
Yes, you need a breaker-bar and a strong socket for that big nut. I'm curious, how did you break the wheel bearing?