PS5 from HELL - Revisit - Can it be fixed this time?
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- Опубликовано: 9 мар 2024
- This is a REVISIT on a PS5 that was sent in by Gavin. In the first video I managed to make it turn on to a 2 second blue light of death, when it arrived to me it was completely dead. In this video, after reading the comments and kindly getting spares from Phil @TheCod3r I am going to try again. Will it be fixed this time? Or will it still be the PS5 from HELL.
If you would like to support these videos, please click here / mymatevince
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince. 
Хобби
A+ for effort. Clearly this is not a case of missing skill but missing information. You've gone above and beyond with this one and you have my deepest respect for undertaking such an endeavor
Phil has just repaired a PS5 board with a 1.8 volt issue, and it turned out to be a short detected at the F2007 fuse - The fuse had blown but he injected voltage at a shorted neighbouring component which light up the wifi chip - He removed it along with the module and also had to replace an HDMI IC
Phil has a free UART code list on his on his Discord server. Joey does Tech uses it as well. Time to dive into it Vince!
I think that the Cod3r has a good way to reball chips by hand without a stencil, using flux to keep the balls in place and then reflow so they move into position. One of his videos has a complete tutorial about reballing.
No need to apologise for the length of the video Vince - although you couldn't fix the PS5, it was very enjoyable and I learnt a couple of new things. Thanks 👍👍👍
Absolutely clickity bait thank him for making 💰
"Filming just so I have evidence of it blowing up."
Now insurance company can't weasel their way out! XD
Valiant effort Vince 10/10 for trying 👏👏👏 A UART is just a serial port adapter (just think like RS232 apart from usually just 5V or 3.3V). I've used one quite a few times, and most recently when repairing that Avermedia video capture device a few video's back. Keep up the great work 👍
Thanks Mick, I'm going to get one, they're only cheap and then it might force me to learn how to use it 👍👍
@@Mymatevincesend it to tdr repair so he can make a video on it
It looks like you put the diode on the wrong way.
Vince , this is the first time ever that I can use the words "amazing" and "what a load of balls" in the same sentence, brilliant, well done food...
“Well done food…” lol 😂🤣😂
Thanks Vince for this nice Sunday video. Always happy to watch them :D
Don't beat yourself up. You did everything you could. Remember these are insanely complex with something like 10 layer PCBs that could suffer from internal track fails, shorts, etc. As you say until there is the equivalent of a plug in car diagnostic tool then the blue light of death should probably just be avoided as it will just drain your sanity. Great effort and the reballing was epic! Well done.
I am very impressed at your re-balling skills!! Brilliant mate!
So sad my help didn't fix this for ya :( but at least it found something, you pronounced Mal-key correct, you have utterly made my week with the mention lol :)
Reballing looks like an absolute nightmare, kudos for even attempting it!
Great vid. As could be said of the rest of your channel: very well done, having the grit and curiosity to give it a go!
My day has been lightened up by this upload, will watch as soon as I finished my tasks, thank you👏
Munch on some popcorn
@@hisnameisworthy7886 will do later, didn’t have time yesterday
I really hope you continue to do videos for as long as you can these are fantastic and very enjoyable thank you Vince 🎉
Yes nice clickbait
I love all the my mate Vince videos 🎉❤
Still a milestone that you got a couple of good reballings in. Good effort.
Well done for trying Vince, I saw something once where the wi-fi module was causing a problem once removed it was ok
Thanks Vince - A rare not fixed but super entertainment 🤓
Vince, that was a herculean effort! One of the most entertaining things you've done, and I've watched your channel for a long time. Love to see more toy fixes, but diagnosing and fixing so many irritating BGAs. I wonder if a sonic clean would have removed the spilt liquid metal from underneath the APU. I'm interested that no-one has done a point-to-point PCB overlay for the board. Surely someone has done this already?
What a journey. At long last this pesky blue light is death! Good job😌
Perfect timing for my Sunday entertainment.
Nice reballing job, Vince :)
Maybe you should consider getting an ultrasonic cleaner, to clean all these liquid(metal) damaged boards? Pretty useful stuff, not just for that. By the way, that LAN port does not look great.
Hi Vince - well done for keep trying at this one, I admire your patience! When the green PCB overlay lifts like that under the Southbridge (on your second attempt with the Southbridge Phil sent you) it can be very difficult to stop the solder balls flowing along the exposed traces, even when using solder/PCB mask like you did. There was a cluster of trace exposed in the middle during your second attempt, and as you say, this area might have caused a number of solder balls to be pulled away from under the Southbridge - at a guess this might be why the LED is now not showing. Anyhow, great video and if you need any help with UART, feel free to get in touch - I recently posted a video using UART to repair a PS5 with a 2 second BLOD.
It's also probably missing a power good signal to produce the 1.8v. check for liquid metal under all of the passives, you can check with your continuity tester.
Hey Vince,
You did a remarkable job on that reballing given what you had to work with. Definitely a great effort.
Just one thing, can you kill that 'haha' sound effect when if fails.
After watching you make such a great effort for half an hour, we're all really hopeful for you when it comes testing time. Obviously disappointed when it fails, but the 'haha' feels like a slap in the face.
If someone was next to me and did that after a repair unfortunately failed, I'd probably slap 'em. Lol
Otherwise, great vid. 👍
Good job mate 👍
A valiant effort. I'm sure at some point you removed the HDMI port and retested. I know nothing about PS5s (or anything much else) but the fact that all the voltages come up and then the 1.8V (and maybe the 3.3V) disappear, may point to a low resistance or something drawing too much. You can keep paste in the fridge (and your favourite superglue) but before using it again leave it out for at least 24 hours to reach room temperature, as otherwise you will get poor adhesion and sputtering.
Well send the console to Phil then 😂 would be interesting to have an answer in the end 😄
Thank you for trying your best.
Hey, I learned how to work on things like you do my PlayStation 5works after I fixed it
These games consoles are getting really complicated. Great info here 👍 earned.
Thank you Paul 👍
You should see the software side...
a re revisit will be interesting to see, don't give up on this one until you find the fault
Tony359 has an excellent re-balling video using stencils. Goes step by step
Hi vince, I have seen it done with solder paste and a stencil, looks cool when it it heated.. Pretty curtain it was heated before the the stencil was removed
Nice going mate :)
Sound video Vince 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent try. Some things just aren't fixable, at least for now. Maybe in the future when there's more information available.
Vince, with the ball template, what I would suggest is getting a piece of metal made up for it, so that the metal is allowed to take the heat, but also would support any bending of the template, just make sure the hole in the centre allows you to get to the balls on any chip. then put the template on the chip, the supporting piece of metal ontop, and then the clamp, that way it should stop the template from bending up quite so much. be better if you get a few bits of metal with different sized holes so that you got them for no matter what chip you are re-balling though, and then using an appropriate piece of metal for the job at hand. either that or two pieces of metal and sandwich the template inbetween them.
Working on a Toshiba 300CDS/T whilst watching this, contending with a BIOS lock that is about 20+ years old, and I love your dedication, Vince! You handle things far better than most, and your perseverance is admirable! :D
Update: I did get past the BIOS lock, and it's finally on the road to being fully functional once again. Definitely one of the most fun repairs I've undertaken!
did you win, with the Bios lock? remember Toshiba I got, the end ub shorting out test points in a vent hole on the under side? was a bit disappointed mostly the time and boot drive option list?and adding boot password? but felt lot more mine? getting BIOS screen open🙂
@@dh2032 Still tackling the BIOS lock, but I have a few other tricks to try like a jumper for the parallel port, so hopefully it will be open soon. The seller actually had the laptop gifted to them in 1996, and they don't recall setting a password along with the default being 'Toshiba' not working either. All of this along with the fact that it has pretty huge sentimental value to the seller, so I've been keeping them updated as well. I have a Toshiba Tecra 730CDT, but it is missing the hard drive caddy which is a proprietary design and I may need to make one from scratch to get it working. I'll be sure to update here when/if I get past the lock. :D
Vince, just a tip, when you re-ball chips, put a thin layer of flux on the chip so that the balls can stick to it when you remove the chip from the stencil....
Great job on the reball without a correct stencil, as a complete amateur myself i tried to reball the cpu on my launch day ps3 that had the ylod fault, reballed it put it back on but didnt fix it so binned it all, with future info thats now come out wish i waited and tried the tokins first but hey ho hindsight is a beautiful thing
Be cool if you could send it to phil to have a crack at, like a colab video or something.
Vince ... once you get the Rolls sorted ...
.... as part of the closing montage just drive over that cursed PS5 👍😀
Oh no I got spoilers by this comment :(
Ruined the whole video for me. 😢
@@TurkeyBaster007 same
Check the psu just an idea try swapping it
Vince, I have no experience with chip re-balling, but I have seen some videos where the guy uses a proper stencil on top of the chip, applies a paste to it (not sure what it is), just like you did. He then applies heat to it and the paste becomes the balls. He removes the stencil and the chip is ready to be soldered. His channel is Joey does tech and he re-balls chips many times because he fixes exactly that type of stuff.
Check for a short to ground on the 1.8v line. It might be a short under the apu.
The diode you replaced, did it go on the right way around, as your leads when testing ended up being the opposite way around ????
One of the things the coder does with these is he will use a PSU to give the 12v to the board, and then he monitors how the current draw happens on first applied (known as a boot up sequence)
Depending on how that sequence goes he is making a list of known potential faults linked to them.
Would be nice if you had a large sonic cleaner, to remove the liquid metal contamination, also have you tried voltage injection and look for any faulty components under a thermal camera.
Omg PS5 from Hell, the title killed me 😂 thanks Vince for the good laugh
When doing those, make sure to put a small layer of flux on the pads that are on the board.
When you reball the chip using solder paste, you shouldn't pick it up from the metal stencil. Just heat the paste with the stencil(probably why the stencil is metal) and pull the chip after the solder solidify, and reheat it one more time.
Also, don't worry too much about solder paste going under the stencil, it'll simply go to nearest pads or solidify that it can easily removed later. Just try to minimize it.
I've done this couple of times without any prior experience but some YT videos.
the puirpose of the diode is to stop current pouring back from the tv or other units back into the HDMI chip... if that diode was shorted, it prbably had current run back after it was powered off. I would vollow the diode backwards
Whoever came up with that SMD technology of those microscopic solder balls needs his head read. Total, total PITA!
If you move/wave the hot air around the chip when you reflow it will dance in place when the solder melts which is better than giving it a nudge.
The solder on the chip was probably low temperature solder so it flowed onto the solder balls before the balls melted.
Superglue (& maybe solder paste too) activates from moisture, not heat, so keep it in a fridge because most modern fridges also include dehumidifiers. If you could get a 'beer fridge' that does this it'd be ideal, but failing that, the room taken up in a standard fridge isn't much, so I fail to see where the problem lies, esp if you keep it in a lidless container somewhere..
I haven't yet watched the previous vids on how the HDMI is damaged, but could you swap it out from your sacrificial board?
*TIP*
Use very springy "Spring Wire" attached to the end of an unused
Multimedia Probe to test if the Chip has taken hold, the spring
wire must give a lot more before it moves the chip to much..
I have some insight on some liquid metal that I found out the hard way. If allowed to sit long enough with solder. It greatly weakens the solder to the point where it doesn't even make perfect continuity if not a connection at all. I'm not going to divulge how I figure that out but let's just say an electronic doesn't work anymore.
Before using a srencil apply a light coat of flux in order to keep the balls in place, then use hot air and flux for the balls to sit on the proper place. After reflowing the the chip make sure to remove all flux from underneath
i wonder if using an ultrasonic cleaner could help clean the board of the liquid metal. im only 40 min into the video so i dont know if its been fixed yet, but that was an idea i had for cleaning up the liquid metal.
I know you said you were doe with this one but in the future if you do go back and look at it again I would remove the south bridge again and look at the pads. I could absolutely be wrong but it appears like you might have missed putting solder mask on 1-2 places so maybe you weren't getting a solid connection.
that reball was worth it for the satisfaction. maybe send to phil?
Joey does tech has some good reballing videos he seems pretty successful most the time
You need to try the UART thing vince. I want to see this ps5 fixed hehe
Use 250 to 300 and the stencil will work allot better. You can also try just heating it up enough to cause flux to go solid and then remove stencil then heat to solder melting point
looking forward to the next revisit on this PS5!
Sad very sad
*Tooth Pick*
When a ball is missing on a chip use a Toothpick dipped into
flux to prick the spot/s where the ball/s needs to go, place
ball/s and heat them on, mind you sometimes it's so much
easier to clean both surfaces and then drag a loaded
soldering iron over either solder pads "either Chip or the
PCB" I found doing the Chip works best, followed by using a
heat gun to marry the chip to the PCB, mind you the larger the
Chip the less likely it will be a success..
you need to heat up the whole stencil evenly. Just heating the middle will make JUST THE MIDLE expand. Heat it evenly all over. All stencils will buckle if oyu heat only one small area
Cant say you didnt try! 😅 Great vid, Vince!
this is usually caused by a faulty ram chip or an APU issue
This Liquid Metal is the devil incarnate.
Need to talk to Joey about his method for paste use. There are definitely different methods. Just have to play with it.
Joey does tech has used UART on a couple of PS5's and (I think) Phil has a list of UART codes on his discord or website.
done all at the same time by a robotic Arm by brazing or hard soldering at 840°F (450°C) Silver brazing a hard form of soldering with Silver
When you replaced the diode, there was a reading when you had the black lead on the right....on the other boards you were getting a reading when the red lead was on the right - looks like you may have put the diode on the wrong way around?
Hi Vince, at first I thought you are battling a printer as those fights are also lost causes on most cases. 😁
Use solder braid instead of a piece of wire to trace where a certain track comes up
Got an xbox 360 e slim. On back of the board almost every capacitor is shorted right behind the APU. Im thinking apu is shorted. In your opinion is it a bleak outcome?
Big fan from India support uh dude
Vince don't give up. At least show us the uart output/error codes. It should also be quite easy to use a uart connection.
Would a chisel tip on soldering iron not work to reball using that jig stencil thing? At least just to get the balls to stick a little in place while you put the chip back on the board and use hot air.
That Uart actually has received inputs Err-Faults reports from Philip "The Cod3r"
Dynamite, Vince. There's always dynamite. And remember, no sane jury would find you guilty.
You are so brilliant good at bringing entertainment through your own pain😅 i hope you come out of the rage before reading this! Thank you anyway❤!
Did you check for the 32kHz oscillator running (near the south bridge)?
Hey Vince, at 45:20 as you exchanged the diode next to the HDMI Port, you put it on the wrong way around! I double checked it with the readings, you made earlier on 43:10. Well, I could not offer you any money, but maybe you could review your video on these markers and agree, that this may cause your issue. Worth a try, is it not?
My first one had this, it lasted 4 hours from new. I wondered if it was the pioneer amp I routed it through or the powered HDD I connected to it with my PS4 games on, so the one I have now I didn't do either of these things
id like to see you get a pallet of old consoles, and refurbish/mod them all. sell, rinse repeat
Send it to Joey Does Tech and see if he can sort it!
You think that’s frustrating, i actually changed a Southbridge the other day (albeit preballed with lead-free solder). The ps5 worked, then started freezing up the next day, tried updating it, freezes up every time 😢
OMG, for real? This was so frustrating for you I could hardly stand it.
A board preheater would be nice.
One day Vince you will beat it in to submission hopefully
was looking at a xbox one x board around the retimer, checking one of vince earlier videos he was checking continuity from the filter to TDP158 but I tried the same and nothing is that because of short on the board?
your blue tool for re-balling can you not undo the hex keys and turn the jaws around , ???
38:10 I feel with liquid metal spills the whole board needs to be blasted with an aircompressor. It gets EVERYWHERE!
You should hold down the stencil with your metal tweezers when heating the balls