@@criostasis I know, annoyingly I think it only works on PCs. It is a shame RUclips don't stick a banner advert there to stop the top comment being visible. Sorry about that.
I’m so glad you were able to fix it! My only explanation was the storage container it was stored in last year got pretty damp over the winter, so perhaps some condensation got in there and corroded that little spot on the board! Great video as always, thanks Vince!
Definitely invest in silica gel dessicant packets. Toss them in your storage containers and you're good. Manufacturers understand that their products are sensitive to moisture so they use them all the time.
That’s amazing. At first when I saw the drill I thought “oh no, man, that’s probably a multi-layered board” but the location of the via being right along the side of the cpu was perfect. Can’t believe this worked, that’s incredible, great job! BTW, first time commenting but been watching your vids for years. I love how you go all the way - you have to find the fault or it keeps you up at night. A lot of other people would just give up and say it’s not economical to fix, but you … you are a different breed my friend. Thanks for the entertainment. Cheers from Canada!
I'm speechless... I thought you'd ruined it for good. You are, at this point, *a mad tinkerer!* BONUS INFO: Capacitors and inductors have non-static resistance. When performing the continuity test on a capacitor, you will have a brief moment of very low resistance while the capacitor charges up. As it charges up, however, the resistance will increase, meaning at some point the resistance goes above the continuity cutoff. This leads to a beep-to-silence continuity behavior. When performing the continuity test on an inductor, it will at first appear to be open (or very high resistance). But as electricity begins to flow through the inductor, the resistance goes *down,* eventually leading to a situation where the resistance falls *below* the continuity cutoff. This leads to a silence-to-beep continuity behavior. Thus, you can sometimes determine what the component is by the way the multimeter beeps: Constant beep: Low-resistance resistor. Constant silence: High-resistance resistor. Beep-to-silence: Capacitor. Silence-to-beep: Inductor. Not all of them will behave that way, however: If the capacitance of a capacitor is too low, you won't hear the initial beep, thus appearing as a high-resistance component. If the inductance of an inductor is too low, the beep will begin immediately, thus appearing as a low-resistance component. In other words: Beep-to-silence or silence-to-beep *almost always signify* it's a capacitor or inductor (respectively). There may be some special non-standard components that exhibit these behavior, but I don't know _that_ much about electronics. Constant silence or constant beep *doesn't necessarily signify* a high-resistance or low-resistance resistor; it may simply be a capacitor or inductor (respectively) with a very low capacitance or very low inductance (respectively).
I have a "part finished" of the exact same issue - on this one here I removed the CPU to fix the trace, OMG is it the most painful thing to re-fit the CPU... I need to try and motivate myself to re-try fitting it again... Totally amazed you managed to fix this after drilling through the layers lol!!! A "just before Christmas" Miracle =D Great work Vince!!! It shows that determination sometimes beats all the odds! I think if that proves to be reliable over hours of testing - it could be sold as a working Gamecube - other than how large that hole was, you've joined up what needs joining (properly) and secured it properly. So its a fix that should be reliable imho.
A Christmas miracle it truly was 😂 I think I remember your video from years back, we need a Part 2 now Chris! I want to see your pain of reballing it as I sit here smugly watching whilst playing Mario Kart Double Dash on the NON reballed GameCube😂
wow when I saw that hole in this several layers board i really had no hope for it working in the end that's really a miracle :D :) vince did a great job there ;D have a good day whoever's reading this...
Vince, that was some excellent PCB digging you did there. Great job and a very fun video to watch. Concerning the corrupted SD cards: Always be sure to shutdown your microscope before you power it off by holding the Standby button on the front pressed. It've heard of it corrupting files when power just cuts out (e.g. by switching it off using the cord-power-control of the lamp for instance). I do have an Andonstar microscope myself and keep on forgetting to shut it down propely from time to time myself.
That thumbnail looks so cool 😀 The upgrades on this channel make me glad that I watched your videos for 5 years One video that I’m thankful of you making is the video 6 years ago of a tutorial called *How to set up a Nintendo Switch* (because when my mum bought me a switch, I had no idea how to work it because the last Nintendo console I used was a dsi from 2009 lol)
Well kudos for having the nuts to try this method of repair. You've shown people who are curious and don't have the knowledge what mistakes can be made when trying to fault find. But that said it wasn't working so nothing would have been lost, but you did it! The best option would have been to push a wire down without drilling and try to solder it in place. If this didn't work then maybe drilling would have been a last ditch attempt - as I am sure you realised. You were incredibly lucky not to totally destroy interlayer connections or short pins on the underside of the BGA chip when you flowed solder through the hole you made. You could do that 100 times with disastrous results before it actually worked as a fix on one item. I'm so happy it worked for you. Maybe being careful on this occasion would not have worked as the through-hole seemed to be totally corroded.
You are one of a kind Vince, you drill a big hole through the PCB, and when you did, i said for myself, "you fucked it up Vince, just swallow the pill and give up"! And still, you manage to find the very right ball an get it to work! Am amazed! Great job!❤ /L
Insane! Seldom have I felt more uncomfortable watching a video than seeing you drilling a "huge" hole through the board and I thought there was no way it could work so what a surprise to see that Gamecube screen come up! I think I was almost as excited as you were when it worked.
Another awesome video. I thought for sure you had bodged the whole thing up drilling that hole, but you succeeded! Best wishes from the USA. Keep up the great work.
I can't believe that actually worked, Vince! Wow. How lucky is that. Would poking a wire through the damaged via and heating it with the soldering iron perhaps have worked? I would imagine it would poke through to the ball and perhaps solder to it? Would perhaps have saved the drill. That drill looked so terrifying under the microscope. :O
I know, what are the odds!!! I think the hole needed to be made bigger as the ball was slightly offset and not directly under the via. Also the via itself seemed to be quite full (maybe with the solder mask and bits of corrosion) 👍
Nice fix Vince! While you should have tried to get the heatsink off the outcome was still good and at the same time lucky. The fact the chip balls are spaced so much helped a lot.
Holy smokes! Unbelievable. I assume you immediately bought lottery tickets?! Nice one Vince. I agreed with the approach but figured it may or may not work. How could I have doubted you oh master? Thoroughly entertaining.
I suspect board corrosion like that is leftover contaminates from the factory, slowly eating away. I'm sure they use some water wash flux and I guess that could show the importance of thorough washing.
@Mymatevince About your microscope: Clean/Check the ySD card slot for contact issues. The Microscope is getting hit by heat, dust, smoke and shit and SD cards react strange when having contact issues. And since you remove and insert the card frequently you "clean" the contacts a little, so it starts working again for some time. About the fix. Great fix! I love it, when the brutal way is the best way to fix stuff. :D
Awesome vid! The grid of vias that you see are unlikely to be the location of the actual ball on the IC. They are adjacent to the balls and allow the signals to immediately connect out to the other PCB layers. If the balls were on top of the vias, the solder would likely wick down the hole and cause a bad ball connection.
I'm surprised it worked out (and glad it did so) but I admit I was mortified when you took the drill to the board😅 I personally might have explored the other side under the heat sink first. PS: I don't trust SanDisk cards any longer, after going through a number of failures...
Cool fix. Interesting how it corroded in just one tiny spot in the storage. Maybe that spot had some manufacturing defect even before putting it in storage, making it more prone for corrosion?
Utilizing a setup with split screen (video´s mid section) is greatly beneficial when microscoping. I’d personally never considered to work an a PCB with a drill, but hey, Indiana, well done!
Chip off 100%. And Vince, you can sell this as working even with that fix. Just mention that in auction. I have bought consoles from Ebay u.k that was sold as mint but was damaged. The worst was a Amiga CD32 that was sold as in great condition. Did get it to Sweden and first thing i saw was that the whole console was glued shut with super glue. Seller acting like ”oh i did not know that”. Seller was a retrogame seller at Ebay so he knew. Then when i startup the CD32 there was graphic glitches that he did not know either. So now i was not able to fix that problem (cap replacement) without break the whole console cover. Anyways, keep up the great videos Vince. Greets from Sweden❤
Amazing fix! I was fully expecting a mess of corrosion under the heatsink. If the SD card woes continue, it might be worth getting a microscope you can capture from externally via HDMI/USB and trying that instead.
Vince, when using SD cards, in cameras, after filming, pull the data off the card, then reformat the card. Each and every time, this resets the file allocation table. When you erase from a card, it leaves the FAT alone, and that can corrupt your files.
To chime in with what other folks are saying about sd cards, there are high endurance sd cards for cameras if you weren't aware. They're slightly more expensive, slightly slower, but designed to record tens of thousands of hours of video without failing.
That was an awesome fix, I would have tried going from the side with an small wire first and trying to melt it with an hot air gun + lots of flux and if that would have failed i would reball it as i'm trying to learn reballing abit atm
Thanks Karthor. I think in hindsight I would have tried going in from the side as well. I just thought the heat sink was going to be a nightmare to remove, but as usual I was very wrong!!!
hya Vince, love your videos, but i have to say that every time i hear the jingle that starts your videos, im reminded of the Head and Shoulers ad "I didnt know you had dandruff...I dont." song. So good luck getting that out of your head.
Now that was a stunning repair. I actually held my breath when the wire stuck and you measured it. Drilling through a board to get a wire on the ball, ballsy move Vince.
Good discovery, though the drill made me weep. Loving the colour-coordination, can we expect to see yellow top, blue mat or yellow and blue-striped top, red mat? Maybe an NF (non-flimsy) microscope for Christmas?
Just some advice for the future when repairing these, the metal heatsink is always the trickiest bit but it's actually really easy. Just stick a small screwdriver in there and pry up. You might have to do it on both sides but I've only had to pry up on one in my few times opening gamecubes. It's perfectly safe but there are thermal pads under there that you may need to replace before using the gamecube heavily. Happy repairing!
You haven't ended up buying a fake SD card have you? It's what it sounds like to me. Even places like Amazon are riddled with them. Usually state to be a certain capacity but is normally only 1/4 or so of what's stated. Once it reaches actual capacity the files just delete/overwrite themselves and come out corrupted. You can use something like H2testw to find out/test it's capacity.
Hi Vince, I gotta say that was a nice fix. Cracking job! You might want to try sd cards from Transcend. I've never had any problems with their SD cards even in very cold conditions. Worth a punt. Since SanDisk was sold to Western Digital, I've noticed their QC (quality control) has dropped significantly. I've had many failed micro sd cards and full size sd cards unfortunately.
Just a quick one vince. If your microscope has a USB port you should be able to capture its output "live" on a laptop and record it. Saves the hassle and faff that comes with SD cards.
With regards to your microscope currupting. I run my scope through a capture card in to the PC and use obs to record what I'm doing. Might save you some time and you can have your scope in to a big screen making it easier to see. 😁
Hey Vince. My solution would be to throw it in the bin. Never in my mind did i think that was fixable just goes to show what your patience and no fear approach can do. Watching someone drill and dig a hole through a circuit board under a microscope give me terrible anxiety but like a car crash you just cant look away. Amazing job
Oh Vince, you've got E N B E L I E V A B LE lucky! When you drilled the board, I cringed soo hard 😀 Good job! I hope it last for a long time. Other than that, I saw a guy who manually re-balled a chip (no stencil) and it did not take him that long. It all depends on the technique.
I had the same exact issue on a couple game cubes I literally had to remove and reball the cpu once repaired the broken via and poke the wire through the via. I used a smaller PCB drill bit. Wondering now if it a common issue now? Wondering more what causes it? I assumed maybe water got in or how it was stored, but now not sure?
If you ever do something like this again, I’d recommend getting a grinding pen, it’s for drilling thru pcbs, and for scratching solder mask off traces/vias. Might work better and be cleaner than using a drill. Awesome to see that you got it working :)
You might check the battery with your multimeter to see if it's at the correct voltage. When the battery died in my Gamecube, it had just enough juice to keep the time and date running, but it was losing minutes a day.
Spoiler Saver
I'm definitely buying a lottery ticket this week!!!!!!
Your spoiler saver didnt work for some reason. Im on a galaxy tab s8 ultra and i get the first comment below this one which spoiled it right away 😢
That was insane I thought you killed the board 😂👍
@@criostasis I know, annoyingly I think it only works on PCs. It is a shame RUclips don't stick a banner advert there to stop the top comment being visible. Sorry about that.
@@BowsettesFury I got so so lucky with this one Bowsette!!!
Love the spoiler Saver, i have asked for this on other channels and nothing, when they spoil the video i just skip it.
I’m so glad you were able to fix it! My only explanation was the storage container it was stored in last year got pretty damp over the winter, so perhaps some condensation got in there and corroded that little spot on the board! Great video as always, thanks Vince!
Thanks for the background on the likely cause of the fault and sending it over to me Hayley!
Most have been existing to watch. Or did you know the result before the video went on air ?
Eh? My dude it was her item, of course she knew the result of the fix🤣
@@andersjakobsen9906I didn’t know the outcome until it went live on Patreon!
Definitely invest in silica gel dessicant packets. Toss them in your storage containers and you're good. Manufacturers understand that their products are sensitive to moisture so they use them all the time.
What did I just see. Never have I seen a repair like that. Vince your mind works in a unique way. Keep it up.
That’s amazing. At first when I saw the drill I thought “oh no, man, that’s probably a multi-layered board” but the location of the via being right along the side of the cpu was perfect. Can’t believe this worked, that’s incredible, great job! BTW, first time commenting but been watching your vids for years. I love how you go all the way - you have to find the fault or it keeps you up at night. A lot of other people would just give up and say it’s not economical to fix, but you … you are a different breed my friend. Thanks for the entertainment. Cheers from Canada!
Unbelievable. I honestly thought you would throw in the towel. The joy in your voice when it worked. Amazing
I'm speechless... I thought you'd ruined it for good. You are, at this point, *a mad tinkerer!*
BONUS INFO:
Capacitors and inductors have non-static resistance.
When performing the continuity test on a capacitor, you will have a brief moment of very low resistance while the capacitor charges up. As it charges up, however, the resistance will increase, meaning at some point the resistance goes above the continuity cutoff. This leads to a beep-to-silence continuity behavior.
When performing the continuity test on an inductor, it will at first appear to be open (or very high resistance). But as electricity begins to flow through the inductor, the resistance goes *down,* eventually leading to a situation where the resistance falls *below* the continuity cutoff. This leads to a silence-to-beep continuity behavior.
Thus, you can sometimes determine what the component is by the way the multimeter beeps:
Constant beep: Low-resistance resistor.
Constant silence: High-resistance resistor.
Beep-to-silence: Capacitor.
Silence-to-beep: Inductor.
Not all of them will behave that way, however:
If the capacitance of a capacitor is too low, you won't hear the initial beep, thus appearing as a high-resistance component.
If the inductance of an inductor is too low, the beep will begin immediately, thus appearing as a low-resistance component.
In other words:
Beep-to-silence or silence-to-beep *almost always signify* it's a capacitor or inductor (respectively). There may be some special non-standard components that exhibit these behavior, but I don't know _that_ much about electronics.
Constant silence or constant beep *doesn't necessarily signify* a high-resistance or low-resistance resistor; it may simply be a capacitor or inductor (respectively) with a very low capacitance or very low inductance (respectively).
You're a mad man, Vince. Glad you got her Gamecube working. That was a great idea and a considerable amount of bravery.
Not going to lie I was kind of livid when you started drilling like a mad man. I thought you had killed the board for good. What an amazing result!
Miracle indeed! After seeing the mess from the drill, I thought no way is this working. Well, you showed me. Unbelievable
I have a "part finished" of the exact same issue - on this one here I removed the CPU to fix the trace, OMG is it the most painful thing to re-fit the CPU... I need to try and motivate myself to re-try fitting it again... Totally amazed you managed to fix this after drilling through the layers lol!!! A "just before Christmas" Miracle =D Great work Vince!!! It shows that determination sometimes beats all the odds! I think if that proves to be reliable over hours of testing - it could be sold as a working Gamecube - other than how large that hole was, you've joined up what needs joining (properly) and secured it properly. So its a fix that should be reliable imho.
A Christmas miracle it truly was 😂 I think I remember your video from years back, we need a Part 2 now Chris! I want to see your pain of reballing it as I sit here smugly watching whilst playing Mario Kart Double Dash on the NON reballed GameCube😂
🤣🤣🤣@@Mymatevince Don't forget the part where in my first attempt I heated it for like 20 mins and was dripping with sweat from all the heat lol
@@GadgetUK164 Hahaha, but not quite as much sweat as when you used the drill in reverse!!!!
A miraculous bodge job! The perseverance and patience of Job.
Hey Vince, you were "on the ball" with this one 😂😂😂😂 Nice job. I wasn't confident that it would work but it appears that it did!
Well done 👍
root canal treatment on the board... well done for the fix Vince!
wow when I saw that hole in this several layers board i really had no hope for it working in the end that's really a miracle :D :) vince did a great job there ;D have a good day whoever's reading this...
What a fix. I would have given up on that completely once the via was no more. Well done Vince!
Tut Tut Tut, The old saying, "Measure Twice, Cut Once!". You never checked before drilling, there is a moral to be learnt here :D
Measure once, get lucky XD
Vince, that was some excellent PCB digging you did there. Great job and a very fun video to watch.
Concerning the corrupted SD cards: Always be sure to shutdown your microscope before you power it off by holding the Standby button on the front pressed. It've heard of it corrupting files when power just cuts out (e.g. by switching it off using the cord-power-control of the lamp for instance). I do have an Andonstar microscope myself and keep on forgetting to shut it down propely from time to time myself.
That thumbnail looks so cool 😀
The upgrades on this channel make me glad that I watched your videos for 5 years
One video that I’m thankful of you making is the video 6 years ago of a tutorial called *How to set up a Nintendo Switch* (because when my mum bought me a switch, I had no idea how to work it because the last Nintendo console I used was a dsi from 2009 lol)
Well kudos for having the nuts to try this method of repair. You've shown people who are curious and don't have the knowledge what mistakes can be made when trying to fault find. But that said it wasn't working so nothing would have been lost, but you did it! The best option would have been to push a wire down without drilling and try to solder it in place. If this didn't work then maybe drilling would have been a last ditch attempt - as I am sure you realised. You were incredibly lucky not to totally destroy interlayer connections or short pins on the underside of the BGA chip when you flowed solder through the hole you made. You could do that 100 times with disastrous results before it actually worked as a fix on one item. I'm so happy it worked for you. Maybe being careful on this occasion would not have worked as the through-hole seemed to be totally corroded.
You are one of a kind Vince, you drill a big hole through the PCB, and when you did, i said for myself, "you fucked it up Vince, just swallow the pill and give up"!
And still, you manage to find the very right ball an get it to work!
Am amazed!
Great job!❤
/L
Crying at the screen while u trying to solder dry ass solder to the bga flux, flux, flux 😂
Honestly I think you could try that repair 100 times and it would only work once. What are the odds?! Wowzers, great repair.
Well done Vince your persistence paid off, a good thing to remember you can’t break something that doesn’t work ☺️
Keep up the good work
Insane! Seldom have I felt more uncomfortable watching a video than seeing you drilling a "huge" hole through the board and I thought there was no way it could work so what a surprise to see that Gamecube screen come up! I think I was almost as excited as you were when it worked.
I'm legit impressed that you managed to get it working after making a huge mistake it just goes to show sometimes it does pay not to give up.
I was cringing the whole time you were drilling.. Can't believe it worked out!! Great job!
Another awesome video. I thought for sure you had bodged the whole thing up drilling that hole, but you succeeded! Best wishes from the USA. Keep up the great work.
OMG! My respects @Mymatevince!! It is always a joy to see and here the happiness when there is a result! I know that feeling and it is the best ever!
New subscriber! You earned my respect with this crazy fix! Gives me hope that I can restore a broken GameCube!
I can't believe that actually worked, Vince! Wow. How lucky is that. Would poking a wire through the damaged via and heating it with the soldering iron perhaps have worked? I would imagine it would poke through to the ball and perhaps solder to it? Would perhaps have saved the drill. That drill looked so terrifying under the microscope. :O
I know, what are the odds!!! I think the hole needed to be made bigger as the ball was slightly offset and not directly under the via. Also the via itself seemed to be quite full (maybe with the solder mask and bits of corrosion) 👍
Hi Vince that was incredibly difficult to repair, well done 👍
I can't believe that worked, i thought for sure, you had hit some wires in the other layers in the board. But glad it worked out!!!
Nice fix Vince! While you should have tried to get the heatsink off the outcome was still good and at the same time lucky. The fact the chip balls are spaced so much helped a lot.
Holy smokes! Unbelievable. I assume you immediately bought lottery tickets?! Nice one Vince. I agreed with the approach but figured it may or may not work. How could I have doubted you oh master? Thoroughly entertaining.
Vince! I’m always ready to watch you work on stuff; especially retro consoles. Keep up the good work brother! 👍
I have to be honest here and thought you destroyed that board BUT, Great Job Vince!!!
Haha 😂😂 I'm happy to see your caveman tactics worked. Just drill a hole through 4 layers and solder everything that will fix it. 😅
I suspect board corrosion like that is leftover contaminates from the factory, slowly eating away. I'm sure they use some water wash flux and I guess that could show the importance of thorough washing.
Wow!!...full of twists and turns, literally. I loved to see the laser. Also, you were real lucky there heheh!.
I would have bet $1,000 that was now junk when I saw that hole in the board. I don't understand how it's fixed and working but congrats!
@Mymatevince About your microscope: Clean/Check the ySD card slot for contact issues. The Microscope is getting hit by heat, dust, smoke and shit and SD cards react strange when having contact
issues. And since you remove and insert the card frequently you "clean" the contacts a little, so it starts working again for some time. About the fix. Great fix! I love it, when the brutal way is the best way to fix stuff. :D
Awesome vid! The grid of vias that you see are unlikely to be the location of the actual ball on the IC. They are adjacent to the balls and allow the signals to immediately connect out to the other PCB layers. If the balls were on top of the vias, the solder would likely wick down the hole and cause a bad ball connection.
Painstaking to watch with no flux the suspense is killing me and I'm not trying to be sarcastic I love your videos
I'm surprised it worked out (and glad it did so) but I admit I was mortified when you took the drill to the board😅 I personally might have explored the other side under the heat sink first. PS: I don't trust SanDisk cards any longer, after going through a number of failures...
there's a possibility there were fake/counterfeit cards ?
@@VintageTechRepairs they were legit, I just think the quality in production has suffered.
What a nice repair I didnt even notice that until I saw it in the close image and saw something that looked off and you spotted it as well
Good job Vince. Perseverance paid off.
Wow.. I wouldn't even dream about the Game Cube has a multi layer Board.. also a really nice and also really lucky fix.
Nice Vince! That was an excellent find and repair. I was worried a little when I saw you drilling it out but success at the end is all that matters.
Thanks Todd, not my finest hour!!! I think the fixing God's bestowed favour on me this time😂
Cool fix. Interesting how it corroded in just one tiny spot in the storage. Maybe that spot had some manufacturing defect even before putting it in storage, making it more prone for corrosion?
Utilizing a setup with split screen (video´s mid section) is greatly beneficial when microscoping. I’d personally never considered to work an a PCB with a drill, but hey, Indiana, well done!
Chip off 100%. And Vince, you can sell this as working even with that fix. Just mention that in auction. I have bought consoles from Ebay u.k that was sold as mint but was damaged. The worst was a Amiga CD32 that was sold as in great condition. Did get it to Sweden and first thing i saw was that the whole console was glued shut with super glue. Seller acting like ”oh i did not know that”. Seller was a retrogame seller at Ebay so he knew. Then when i startup the CD32 there was graphic glitches that he did not know either. So now i was not able to fix that problem (cap replacement) without break the whole console cover. Anyways, keep up the great videos Vince. Greets from Sweden❤
Interesting fix 👍 good job
Cheers Paul👍
Amazing fix! I was fully expecting a mess of corrosion under the heatsink.
If the SD card woes continue, it might be worth getting a microscope you can capture from externally via HDMI/USB and trying that instead.
Wow, good job, we really interesting to see the laser move around 🎉
Great fix. Well done. A quick fix for solder-masking, is to run over it with your air gun after applying the uv light.
Vince, when using SD cards, in cameras, after filming, pull the data off the card, then reformat the card. Each and every time, this resets the file allocation table. When you erase from a card, it leaves the FAT alone, and that can corrupt your files.
To chime in with what other folks are saying about sd cards, there are high endurance sd cards for cameras if you weren't aware. They're slightly more expensive, slightly slower, but designed to record tens of thousands of hours of video without failing.
That was absolutely crazy! Nice work! Kudos!
That was an awesome fix, I would have tried going from the side with an small wire first and trying to melt it with an hot air gun + lots of flux and if that would have failed i would reball it as i'm trying to learn reballing abit atm
Thanks Karthor. I think in hindsight I would have tried going in from the side as well. I just thought the heat sink was going to be a nightmare to remove, but as usual I was very wrong!!!
generally on a 4 layer pcb it'll be signal-vcc-gnd-signal in terms on layer order
Excellent, thanks for sharing👍
Great repair, I thoroughly enjoyed the video, thank you for taking the time to make it and posting it.
hya Vince, love your videos, but i have to say that every time i hear the jingle that starts your videos, im reminded of the Head and Shoulers ad "I didnt know you had dandruff...I dont." song. So good luck getting that out of your head.
Now that was a stunning repair. I actually held my breath when the wire stuck and you measured it. Drilling through a board to get a wire on the ball, ballsy move Vince.
Vince - that was INCREDIBLE!!
Video game repairs! Back to the roots.
Good discovery, though the drill made me weep. Loving the colour-coordination, can we expect to see yellow top, blue mat or yellow and blue-striped top, red mat? Maybe an NF (non-flimsy) microscope for Christmas?
Vince, it wasn't a pretty repair job, but it worked! ....a Hail Mary success!👏👏
Just some advice for the future when repairing these, the metal heatsink is always the trickiest bit but it's actually really easy. Just stick a small screwdriver in there and pry up. You might have to do it on both sides but I've only had to pry up on one in my few times opening gamecubes. It's perfectly safe but there are thermal pads under there that you may need to replace before using the gamecube heavily. Happy repairing!
Brilliant fix Vince. Well done 🎉
You crazy madman! Congratz!
Hope the Rolls - Royce going tru the inspektion on OMT ! You have done a greth work on this !!,👍👍👍👍👍
Amazing job Vince. Well Done 🤩🤩🤩
Dude that was suuuuuuuper sketchy, I love it!
You haven't ended up buying a fake SD card have you? It's what it sounds like to me. Even places like Amazon are riddled with them. Usually state to be a certain capacity but is normally only 1/4 or so of what's stated. Once it reaches actual capacity the files just delete/overwrite themselves and come out corrupted. You can use something like H2testw to find out/test it's capacity.
AMAZING VIDEO as always!! Keep up the great videos coming!!!
My wife just ask why is the bip bip guy is having a yellow map now😂😂
Excellent work Vince!! That really is an incredibly small fix
Hi Vince, I gotta say that was a nice fix. Cracking job!
You might want to try sd cards from Transcend. I've never had any problems with their SD cards even in very cold conditions. Worth a punt. Since SanDisk was sold to Western Digital, I've noticed their QC (quality control) has dropped significantly. I've had many failed micro sd cards and full size sd cards unfortunately.
Nobodys perfect vince 😀 great vids inc the roller keep up the great work 😀
Just a quick one vince. If your microscope has a USB port you should be able to capture its output "live" on a laptop and record it. Saves the hassle and faff that comes with SD cards.
Love your videos! May I ask where you purchased your desoldering gun? I would like to purchase one like it. Thanks
I'm going out this morning but I'll make sure to watch when I get back home keep it up mate
With regards to your microscope currupting.
I run my scope through a capture card in to the PC and use obs to record what I'm doing.
Might save you some time and you can have your scope in to a big screen making it easier to see.
😁
Hey Vince. My solution would be to throw it in the bin. Never in my mind did i think that was fixable just goes to show what your patience and no fear approach can do. Watching someone drill and dig a hole through a circuit board under a microscope give me terrible anxiety but like a car crash you just cant look away. Amazing job
Man, I think you killed the board 😂😂😂 just amazing 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Oh Vince, you've got E N B E L I E V A B LE lucky! When you drilled the board, I cringed soo hard 😀 Good job! I hope it last for a long time.
Other than that, I saw a guy who manually re-balled a chip (no stencil) and it did not take him that long. It all depends on the technique.
I had the same exact issue on a couple game cubes I literally had to remove and reball the cpu once repaired the broken via and poke the wire through the via. I used a smaller PCB drill bit. Wondering now if it a common issue now? Wondering more what causes it? I assumed maybe water got in or how it was stored, but now not sure?
That was a LUCKY fix! Nice.
If you ever do something like this again, I’d recommend getting a grinding pen, it’s for drilling thru pcbs, and for scratching solder mask off traces/vias. Might work better and be cleaner than using a drill. Awesome to see that you got it working :)
crazy repair !! but excellent video as always
I'm happy that you were able to fix it, but, man, that was ugly and I kind of doubted it... : ) That was a serious candidate to the dump.
I’ve gotta admit Vince, a bit of me died when you were drilling in to the motherboard.
Can’t lie I’m amazed that open heart surgery on a 4 layer board worked!
You might check the battery with your multimeter to see if it's at the correct voltage. When the battery died in my Gamecube, it had just enough juice to keep the time and date running, but it was losing minutes a day.
“Touch of corrosion “ would be a great metal band name😁
Vince. Love you, bro. But look up some teardown videos before you work on these popular consoles.
Stunning work Vince.
Very ingenuitive fix 👏 and a great video as always!
Is that what you call it? I call it a fucking horror show. lol
Wow, talk about your long shot fixes. LOL That was more like ice fishing... you just caught a hole in the surface and hoped the fish were biting. :D
@Mymatevince , where did you get that sd card that is failing ? Perhaps it's not the capacity it's claiming it is