In army I got training for that shit(I have driven Pinz gauer 4x4x, 6x6, T55 tank...) Options are; 2H, 4H, 2L and 4L. military vehicles have aditional lock for each differential. Basically you never drive in 4H it just never got to happen, you are destroying all stuff down there if you are doing that. Only one circumference when 4H is allowed is when your rear drive shaft is destroyed and you gotta get the hell out of there. If it's all flat and fine drive in 2H Things get bit messy 2L You are about to get stuck 4L. That is driving in rough terrain lesson. Driving at high speed 4x4 heat up all differentials and induce huge amount of stress for all bits down there. I believe there are vehicles where all this is different like all time 4x4 with central diff lock or any smart 4x4 system
Thanks John. Good quick information. Straight to the point with a bit of humour. Sound like a engineer talking whilst adding a bit of humour instead of a comedian trying to be a engineer. 👍🏻
A lot of excellent advice as usual. I 100% agree with your suggestion on getting training. I am happy to report that most of the advice you've given on many 4x4 topics is exactly what I learnt doing the course. I've met plenty of people with much more time experience than me struggle with things that they really shouldn't because they really have no idea.
Thanks John, I have a MY12 Mitsoshiti Challenger manual transmission with 4wd 'on the fly'. I bought it new in 2013 and love the trans, all be it a 5 speeder, and have always been impressed with the 4wd shifting lever/mechanism and centre diff lock.
I remember about 20 years ago in the 60 series one time, it was all twisted up on the road. We stopped and got it and scratched our heads.... Turns out it was still in 4x4 with front and rear air lockers still engaged. Nothing broke but she relaxed let out and audible sigh when we disengaged the lockers.
Thanks John. This week in our newly purchased 2014 Ford Ranger base model 3.2, 4x4 we found out what happens when you drive 4h for 30min on a high traction wet road. After stopping and pulling a stuck person (landcruiser) out of a very muddy verge. We packed up in the rain and continued on. The 4h was disengaged while still in Drive and away we went. 5mins later driver stated it felt funny, but soon after said it was fine. 30mins later we stopped because of the strong burny oil smell. Popped the hood to find diff oil sprayed all over the left side of the engine bay. Checked the diff oil it was LOW LOW LOW. So crawl into the next town at 50khp, get diff oil, refill and flush. All good holiday saved. Always deselect or select 2wd and 4wd options in neutral and go forward and reverse a bit in the older Ford Ranger. No blame here we are both new to this 4x4 stuff.
I recon advises like this one helps a lot of people. I purchased my 1st 4WD in 1990. I wish I had those advices then. Most of the men seems to know all but when you see Land Cruiser get bogged in sand and you’re passing in front wheel drive then you appreciate the knowledge.
Informative and entertaining, as always. 👍 I owned a 4x4 Toyota Tacoma (I’m in Canada), and one thing the techs told me is that you do need to drive in 4H at least once a month for about 15 minutes. They said it keeps all parts lubricated, etc. They said dry roads are ok in a straight line. They didn’t mention wet roads, so thank you for the tip!
Remember this when coming onto the tarmac when you've been on beach or dirt tracks for a few days. I did a u turn fully loaded off Fraser and felt my front wheel skip a few times. I'd imagine is goes skip, skip snap.
@@AutoExpertJC Did ol' Tiff charge extra for you to wear the fishnets? On a serious note, I'm shocked that not every transfer case has a centre diff. Every day is a school day!
Back in the late 90's I recall the Pajero's had: 4H, 4H - centre diff lock, 4L - centre diff lock. I recall that in 4H (no centre diff lock) that it was good to go on tarmac.
Good to see a Mallcrawer spec as the thumbnail. Suits the Mallcrawer narrative pitched towards the stereotype with no idea driving around at Westfield. You know the type, they hold the steering wheel with one hand at the 11:00 position, lean their body to one side (full gangster), bolt hideous black flares on, upgrade to cheap low profile Monsta Grappler tyres on cheap oversized wheels. Oh, the most important modification is a cheap shortcut strut spacer lift in the front and leaf block, or extended shackles in the back; which makes them think they are in a big rig, yet has absolutely no suspension down travel (droop) and is dangerous.
And they turn corners like they're turning a 53 foot long trailer. And maybe the lovely silver dangling testicle thingy on the tow ball, because they're so manly.
For the last 10 years I was driving different 4wd vehicles true the bush tracks ( gold prospecting) and never used 4h, 4l or lock dif because these vehicles are very capable in 2wd mode and I did find some challenging tracks. So I appreciate your explanation because you never know when I'm going to need it. Cheers
I was thinking of emailing a question about the other then this video popped up and answered some of the questions. Once i gathered what was delivered the rest fell into place. Being a grey nomad in waiting or someone heading to dingo piss creek either versions gets heaps of tips from your insightful videos. Thank you!!
After many years of driving off road water tankers in the fire brigade you get to know how dangerous conditions can become. I’ve also driven in the snow for many years and the Pajero super select has been fantastic for traction in varying conditions. It makes it hard to want to drive any other 4wd that can’t be used on sealed roads regardless of the improvements in safety features and creature comforts.
@David Squibular I’m a bit confused when it comes to Prado, especially the newer models. I don’t think @AutoExpertJohnCadogan included them in his group of vehicles that “bind up” in 4H on high traction services but that doesn’t explain if they in fact maintain a good level of traction at moderate speeds on icy mountain roads. I’ve found the old Pajero to be quite good in this environment but I’m not aware of the newer Prado’s ability in this terrain either.
re: risk homeostasis, the fact that so many people use safety features as performance enhancments, means me and my Paramedic colleagues, will never be out of a job.
@@Jay151 Hi Joel, maybe your comment was slightly tongue-in-cheek, but seriously speaking, if your Wrangler scares you, there may be some work you can do to it as my Wrangler drives as sweet as any other vehicle I've driven. I did do a fair amount of work to it to make it drive 'normally' though! We drive routinely, fully loaded, on multi-thousand km tours and at the signposted speed limits (including NT at 130...). Please take this comment as more out of concern and not taking the P...
It's the safety features that keep you in a job, if you are moving fast enough that the seatbelt stops you from going to the morgue, then it will send you to intensive care instead.
Here's an idea for you John. Explain to my mate with his flash new ute with bull bar and brush bars and lift kit and cb and dual batteries and awning and a heap of other shit that he doesn't use why he should stop labouring through corners in 3rd and 4th gear. He doesn't believe that the tremendous shuddering and labouring means anything and has to drop down to second gear after every corner like its the first time it's ever happened to him. In his defence, I've seen plenty of other people who have nothing wrong with labouring either. PS. Could you please tell him his "truck" looks "heaps tough"? Nobody else has yet and I can't keep a straight face long enough after calling it a truck to finish the sentence.
Wow! Never thought I'd hear someone say NOT to use 4WD, but John has done it, and made a case for WHY one shouldn't. #respect. But I miss the friendly smiling MALS red dude in his hat.
An interesting report John. It's always nice to have these facts re-affirmed every now and then. It also reminds me. I should update my skills and not just think that I can handle this situation or that because I used to be able to.
I totally agree with your explanation BUT the card behind the drivers side sun visor of my 2010 Pajero NT 3.2 L diesel recommends driving in 4H when towing!!! I tried to add a photo of this card but couldn't.
My Ranger used to have big trouble taking off at the lights on a wet sloping road. I would engage 4H until I got moving and slip back into 2H then. Avoided turning the wheel until I got back into 2H. The Ute is so light in the arse, it had zero traction to get moving and just sat and snaked around. 4H got her moving promptly, but I was aware enough to turn it off ASAP on a hard surface. We were told when we went to Fraser Island many years ago to try and keep 4WD engaged as much as possible to ease the wear on the tracks, but you really needed to use your own judgment there. After all, an expensive drivetrain was at stake.
Why doesn't the Ranger (and most of the others) come with an unlockable centre diff? It baffles me, my Triton does, I just leave it in 4H permanently, wet or dry. Weird.
That's why I love my Suzuki GV in the wet. like the Range Rover and the upper level tritons with a centre diff, 4H is ok on high traction surfaces. In fact the Suzuki does not offer 2H at all, which I know you are very ok with.
Yesss, when the road gets slippery we select 4H on the fly in our Pajero Sport and its like jumping onto rails. High traction 4H is yet another reason we chose the Pajero Sport, it would be sad if Renault Nissan replace them with their less advanced clunkers.
@@klaatubaradanikto984 - Mitsubishi are the lead developers of the next gen Navara / Triton, I would think Super Select II survives for the future Triton but the engine will most likely will be "Renault" sourced, there is also some speculation (take that for what you will) that Navara is going back to rear leaf springs which is a plus and negative depending on your views about said rear suspension for this type of vehicle, the next gen Pajero Sport (being there won't be a Pajero) will retain it's current set up but again with a "Renault" sourced engine.
John the Ford Everest unless otherwise mentioned being RWD are actually AWD* standard with 4x4 Low range, it's understandable that many have made this error since many think the Everest and Ranger and near identical save for the face that one is a ute and the other is a large wagon, their driveline set up are vastly different unless they happen to be "rear wheel drive only" versions. The AWD version in Ford Everest is basically a RWD bias AWD torque split (hardware torque split) system, something like 40% front 60% rear in normal mode, the centre differential remains open as the hardware has to provide variable torque split rear to front, the closest you can get to 50/50 torque split in the Everest is switching off DSC (Ford speak for Traction, Roll Over Mitigation and Stability Control) which then splits torque split to 50/50 while the centre differential remains open (as it can't me manually locked as there is no provision to do that), of course this is not a viable method either as once you have slip somewhere (no matter which tyre slips) whatever ever direction up to 50% torque will go to that tyre slip and there is no brake torque control (BTC is controlled by ABS which pulsars the brake calliper of the wheel which is slipping to send that torque to where traction is best as that is part of DSC) to control slip, in short it then comes down to driver skill to effectively use the vehicles AWD ability to get out of trouble or general driving without DSC on (which I don't recommend unless you need engine torque + slip like driving through light mud or sand but don't need full on 4x4 low range), the good thing here is that Ford Everest does have several "Terrain Management Systems" modes the driver can use before needing the drastic action of switching off the electronics. The Mitsubishi Pajero Sport (all versions) and Several Triton variants have something called "Super Select II" which is basically All Wheel Drive or what they call 4H which is similar to the Ford Everest with AWD which means the driver can use that mode on all traction surfaces without issues, I used to own a Pajero Sport (GLX trim) and basically left 4H always on so it was in AWD mode, fuel consumption was probably about 5% worse then just being in 2H (RWD) mode, that said even Super Select II while very good does not make up for the fact the Pajero Sport was no where near the levels of the Ford Everest overall, my main complaint about the Pajero Sport was the poor body roll and ride balance that said I preferred the hydraulic steering over the Everest electric steering set up.
I find the Pajero and Pajero Sport to be quite good in 4wd high on low and high traction surfaces although without hill decent the Pajero may benefit from reduction gears. I didn’t know the Everest had a similar capability to drive on high traction surfaces in 4wd. Thanks.
@@Rockbottomsurf - the Everest is AWD (unless sold as a RWD only which not many are), the AWD system is very similar to the former Ford Territory (SY onwards so 2011) as its a variable torque split (40 front 60 rear) but has a pre-charge of 10 (front) / 90 (rear) for most driving conditions, the Pajero Sport (not sure about the older Pajero) has something similar when using 4H (re: AWD mode) although the torque split % are different, from memory only 20% to the front and 80% rear and each time you start the vehicle you have to engage 4H every time. It's shame that the ranger in this PX and PX MkII Generation never got the Everest AWD option, that said I hear the next gen Ranger / Amarok will have the Everest AWD set for certain models (word is that Amarok will have it standard) which have the excellent watts link coil spring live axle rear suspension while leaf spring versions will retain the RWD 4x4 centre diff lock + 4x4 low range.
That was an issue early on when AdBlue was not stocked in regional areas that we'll, today you can fill up AdBlue at the same time you fill up with diesel from many service stations also a lot more regional places now stock adue drums in various container sizes so it's not an issue,
@David Squibular - it depends, John has a great video which answers your question " ruclips.net/video/OEM4NtfqVeQ/видео.html " where he goes into detail about the 3.2L 5cyl turbo diesel vs the 2.0L 4cyl sequential turbo diesel that can be had in Ranger / Everest.
My 17 Pajero Sport has been in AWD mode since about a month after I bought it - only time it goes into any other mode is when the tracks get a little tricky. Bloody all-terrain mountain goat and beautiful in the wet; even on ATs.
John the advertising tells me very clearly ARB have the gear to “Get you there”. Now “there” could be anywhere but clearly I need the gear to achieve that. 😉
Jesus you just don’t sleep do you or are you paid by the minute you broadcast. And I just sit here waiting for you to put a smile on my face which you often do thanks pal
There is no excuse these days for manufacturers not to fit center differentials on four wheel drive vehicles. I for one will not buy a vehicle that does not have one as I like to have four wheel drive at all times.
Yeah but it's a 19k jump from a hilux to a prado and for how often you are actually going to need it thats a lot of dollariedoos. I just take abit more care in those situations and keep that money in my back pocket
Hi John, perhaps a good bit of advice to your subscribers on this issue would be to read their owners manual. My Pajero manual stated to put the vehicle in H4 mode when towing. cheers, Pat.
Hi John Happy Lock-down 🤪, just a quick correction that I’ve noticed nearly EVERY car reviewer make… the Ford Everest (I have a 2018 Trend AWD) is in fact AWD like the Toyota Prado (I have a 2010 GLX). They’re almost the same system, except thePrado has a Center Diff-lock that can be activated manually. Why does everyone say it’s the old two wheel system when it’s clearly not. Only wish they had it on the Ranger. Regards Jeff Keep up the good work
The other thing is, the traction control system in both the Everest and Ranger remains ON to aid off-road driving. Nearly every other manufacturer disables these systems. Toyota included.
@@jeffoliver4076 - BTC (Brake Torque Control) is used to control slip without affecting power (re: bogging down the engine with fuel cutoff to prevent slip). For most driving conditions it's good but on sand or mud you want a little slip which helps the driver to correct the line they take, which is why LSD (mechanical) back in the day were very good for those conditions.
I read and hear a lot said about vehicle capabilities. More and more it looks like vehicle tech is advancing to help over come our own shortfalls. I don’t know about anyone else but driving under normal circumstances takes a fair amount of concentration. Towing seems to multiply this by factor of about, I don’t know, a shit load. Towing requires almost clairvoyant like skills to anticipate much further ahead and much further behind. If for nothing other than giving my reaction times some more wriggle room. Being more conscious of something like…keeping a greater gap between me and the next vehicle or backing off as I approach a freeway merge because I can’t as easily pull into the right lane (and knowing that the driver entering from the on ramp has no idea how to be considerate of traffic already on the freeway) By the time I get to my destination I am noticeably more tired than I would be otherwise because of all the extra concentration. Despite all the gadgets my car has to help reduce risks, I am still the one that has to think. Despite all the advanced technology, towing is much more tiring and an often over looked part of towing is take more breaks. I never hear much really said about this… but maybe it’s just me. Having all the traction control, anti sway and accident mitigation in the world won’t stop fatigue creeping in. I feel towing is like a steroid for fatigue The best upgrade you can have is to realise this and adjust accordingly.
Hi John great info on this subject. I own a Ford Everest Trend that have adaptive 4WD as the standard driving setting. (front wheels pickup any slack if the back drive wheels start to slip or are in danger of slipping.) I have always dropped into 4WD on loose dirt roads. From what you have just enlightened me should I just leave it in "Adaptive" mode on dirt roads until they get too rough? Graeme
Do you mean adaptive cruise control. The system you are talking about is only in the Mercedes G wagon where you can shift into all wheel drive. You have a Massey Ferguson 4wd which will spend its entire life in rear wheel drive as like all everest and ranger owners it will never leave the tarmac or light gravel.
On a more serious note I have been experimenting with 4H in the wet on an MR Triton. Given it engages traction control merely looking at the throttle in the wet I assume the factory tyres are not that great. I can’t feel any issue on properly wet roads when actually raining and in 4H. No super select.
Hi John., so we should take isuzu's claim with the 4H can handle up to 100 k's with a grain of salt? And mitsubishi's super select-II on the other hand should be fine?
That's the speed up to which you can SWITCH between 2H and 4H ... on a loose surface. Not the max speed of 4H ... it will do much more than that on a loose surface (if you're nuts). But, no 4H at all on sealed roads. Isuzu makes no such claim.
Hey John, love your content! If you want to connect with the youth who are disilussioned and priced out of the housing market, do a segment on vans suitable for living in, VW Crafter 4motion versus Sprinter versus Transit, HiAce SLWB. Thanks, Christ
2L ? How many vehicles would have that option? The only thing I can think off are old Falcon or Commodore which had LSD (Limited Slip Differential) and using 1st gear only. A modern day version is the Ranger which which allows for the use of the rear differential lock while in 2H RWD using sports mode to lock the transmission into 1st gear only.
Andrew St. Pierre White would partly disagree with you on that one John, and has a video clip testing the different 4WD modes in vehicles equipped with a locking centre diff while towing a trailer in the wet and loose road. Maybe you can ask him to send you the link to his experiment . (unfortunately I can't remember the title, but he would) He apparently claims that when the pavement is not dry and hard, 50/50 torque distribution between front and rear is the safest option.
What I would like to know, as a 4X4 newcomer is, should I regularly engage the 4 wheel drive just to ensure that the working parts remain adequately lubricated? I don't know how it works and what I know about the mechanical side of 4X4 could be written on the back of a postage stamp. Is it necessary to regularly engage it to keep it in good order. I can't any reference in the owners manual.
My D3 has permanent AWD and a nice center diff in the transfer case. I understand why utes have the ratio/awd selector...but I think time has moved on.
So is it a problem if I've been running up and down the freeway and haven't engaged 4H for months? Should I seek out a slippery dirt track to give the 4WD system a run? Love your vids, keep up the great work!
It’s fine. If it troubles you though just engage 4WD in whilst driving in straight line for 20m or so, once or twice a year to wet the gears and move the solenoids. Slippery tracks are more fun though…
Hey John, thanks for the straight shooting. What's going on with a full time all wheel drive, like my BMW X3? What voodoo is managing that situation? Transfer case?
Modern X3s use an electronically controlled multi-plate clutch pack that connects the rear axle to the front. Allowing it to be because more or less AWD depending on traction needs, it's technically not a differential. But it acts as a center diff.
You know straight away if you are on a surface with to much traction. Steering gets really heavy and its obvious somthings wrong. Best bet is to pull on to the verge and back and foward a few times to let it pop back into 2wd as it will be bound up
as a 200 series land cruiser owner, which is full time four wheel drive, driving 4 wheels all the time, why dont they have lock up issues? is this due to the centre diff in the transfer case, or the split 51/49% rear/front drive? I will note, locking the centre diff on dirt roads when towing my expensive toilet, gives me a whole new feel and response when moving 6.2 tons odd along said dirt roads.
@@mpf1947 yes, im aware of what a differential does, how it works. you have not answered my question. New 4x4's with front lockable hubs can still drive in 4 high, but this report says you shouldnt on high traction surfaces, but here i am, doing it everyday, with no issues. Why the conflicting advice regarding using 4h then?
@@glenod mpf answered your question...and so did you. Your 200 has a centre differential which can be locked. If a new, modern 4wd doesn't have a centre diff, then it's no bueno engaging 4H on a high traction surface...end of...btw, modern 4wd's don't have lockable hubs, those front shafts are turning whenever your vehicle proceeds.
@@Imos99 right. got it. forgive my ignorance that new 4wds like the 76/79 series land cruiser has front lockable hubs, some manual, some even auto i see. ( still have a centre diff ) These new you beaut modern 4x4s you speak of are part time 4 wheel drives, and only engage when their puters tell them too when they get all slippy slippy in the mud or greasy bitumen.Turning shafts and shafts delivering traction/power to the road is very different from full time four wheel drive.
@@glenod Part-time 4WD is a 4WD system that you can only use part time, meaning in slippery conditions. What your describing is actually automatic AWD. And many 4WD systems have an automatic AWD setting that can be used on road full time. Your land cruiser is actually AWD most of the time too, a lot like an Audi, both using torsen center diffs. It only becomes 4WD when you lock the center diff. So basically to summarize is 4H in the land cruiser=AWD and 4high in a part time 4WD vehicle=4WD.
Everyone who buys a 4x4 should be forced to watch this video. Had someone in the car park yesterday hopping their car into a park in 4WD. Sent shivers down the spine
Was that a Bunnings carpark? lol I was just typing my comment and saw yours. I know an idiot that just yesterday drove 20km on dry bitumen in 4H(country roads at least), strangely apart from one corner feeling a little "understeery" I didn't notice. Then did a Uturn on a four lane road, its like having the handbrake on it, damn near stopped. Happily nothing broken, though I my have shortened the life of something. Still kicking myself.
Can I just make an observation: driving on loose dirt roads in 4wd does not significantly increase fuel consumption. I've done thousands of Ks on crappy corrugated roads and have seen many flipped 4wd utes and wagons on the side of the road which could've been prevented by knocking it into 4wd. Most new cars can go 100kmh in 4wd safely on loose dirt roads. I'm not saying your suspension would like that speed, but make sure you're at least in 4wd before going fast on dirt.
Exactly, spent decades having to offroad for work and to do courses, if you're not travelling in 4H on unsealed surfaces, you are risking everything, maybe John should get himself up to date before risking viewers lives.
@@Corey-pd3mi seen plenty of clowns that have been travelling over 80kmh on what they thought was a hard surface, lost a small amount of traction, run off the road and flipped their utes. In a lot of companies, it is SOP to engage 4H on any unsealed road.
@@tadstertrolley7770 I would agree if the ute is unladen, they can be quite skippy. Company SOP is different to private ownership. Company has two cater for all types and all conditions , has duty of care and insurance so blowing the odd transfer case is cost of doing business
@@Corey-pd3mi haven't seen a blown transfer case on any rangers or hilux's because they were using 4H on hard unsealed surfaces yet over 100s of 1000ks, and do the same with wagons. You think it would be in a SOP if it risked leaving their employees stranded in remote areas.
Hi John, I own a 2020 Pajero GLX, im sure Mitsubishi claim that their vehicles that have super select is capable of being in 4H on the bitumen, is there truth to this?
If I was an engineer, which as an accountant I am not, I would engineer some diff like connection between the front and back wheels to allow for the tyres to all move at different speeds while getting power from the engine. I would also add a button or lever that allows me to lock this centre fancy tool to allow the back and front wheels to move at the same speed. Sounds like a smart idea. Wait, why do I think something like that already exists? My bloody ideas are always taken 🙄
Even an ‘old’ style defender (usually full-time 4wd) has a centre-diff.... when the centre diff-lock is engaged, ‘wind-up’ is an issue on high friction surfaces. Obviously 4wd utes and pick-ups don’t have a centre diff.... who knew?
will it end? I'm hearing end of October ... the current state government are shitting the collective pants right now and it appears that the Murdoch media are about to unleash hell on the Premier in the following days / weeks maybe forcing her to resign, if Rupert is pissed at you your days are numbered.
Everyone must drive like they at work all the time. In the eyes of the law, every one behind the wheel of any motor vehicle is ultimately responsible for their actions and outcomes. No such thing as freak accidents or act of one of your favorite pretend Gods. They are caused, and as far as the police is concerned, if someone dies on the road then possibly some one at fault will probably go do a bit of ankle grabbing at HER Majesties pleasure. Why do you think the police and accident investigations spend so much time at the scene. Its so they can gather as much evidence as they can to put someone behind bars. And as far as towing heavy shit goes, the blame can start from the driver upwards to the manufacturer including service personnel and the dealer that will exaggerate the capabilities of the vehicle just to win you over. Believe me SHIT CAN AND DOES RUN UPHILL.
@@GuitarsRockForever "Be a pity if your Jeep were to suddenly catch fire." Accident?? No, deliberately poor design and/or manufacturing. As HAL9000 said, "It can only be attributed to human error". Accident still bears the psych label of 'nobody at fault', and that's been proven wrong. If there's an accident, somewhere a human screwed up. Design, manufacturing, lack of concentration caused by fatigue or distraction, fear, panic, lack of awareness of risk, lack of mitigation or removal of risk, it's truly all our fault. Today it may all be my fault (it always is, read the fine print), but tomorrow it could be your turn (also in the fine print below the part where it's all my fault, unless I get a day off).
Bit different on the old Suzuki GV ......4H is normal running mode with no problem with the 4WD system. 4H - the center differential is a limited slip in this mode. The front and rear "axle" differentials are engaged. The GV doesn't have axles in that sense because the fully independent suspension requires the use of shorter shafts with constant velocity joints. The front and rear differentials are what's called "open", which means they are simple. These simple differentials are funny. On one hand, they have no ability to allow the different turn rates such as happens during cornering. On the other hand, if a wheel starts spinning, they put all their power into uselessly spinning the wheel lacking traction. This means that on pavement, cornering is impaired, while on slippery surfaces, they allow useless wheelspin. A completely plain center differential, when engaged, will still allow the front, or the back, or two diagonally opposite wheels to spin when the traction difference/power differential reaches a certain point. And yes, that's pretty useless. At the same time, when on pavement, the system is so locked together that when cornering, the system will build up and release stress to the point where the vehicle does something that's aptly described as "crow hopping". The GV's limited slip center differential locks the wheels together (up to a point) but at the same time allows for slippage for cornering. This is equivalent to an AWD setup. Limited slip differentials can be built to provide varying amounts of resistance to slippage. The "stiffer" they are, the more they resist wheelspin, but the more they resist the wheels turning at different rates. Sometimes, when backing up with the wheels at full lock, you may experience some lurching or clunking noises from the drivetrain. That's because of the stiffness of the limited slip differential. The stiffer the differential, the more stress you place on drivetrain components. On the GV, traction control using the ABS and the brakes is used to detect and stop wheelspin, which makes up somewhat for the lack of lockable or limited slip differentials at the axles. So what this means is that in 4H, the GV drives through all four wheels, and the slippable center differential allows being in 4wd on pavement because the slippage allows for cornering. 4H Lock. After explaining that, it's easier to understand 4H High. 4H High means the center differential is locked. This makes it more like an old fashioned simple system. On one hand, the front or rear wheels, or two diagonally opposite wheels theoretically can't spin. I use the word "theoretically" because of something I'll get to later. You shouldn't use this mode on bare dry pavement because you don't need it, and because it will stress the driveline components, cost mileage, and induce unwanted forces into cornering dynamics. I would suggest NOT using this mode for slippery highway driving. The reason is that when you initiate a turn, even a slight one, a locked center differential will resist wheels turning at different speeds. It wants them all to be turning at the same rate. In a corner, this will cause one or more wheels to slip relative to the road surface. A wheel sliding even a tiny bit has a huge loss of the traction you need for cornering. In combination with the high center of gravity and stiffer suspensions, this is why you see so many SUV's in the ditch on the first slippery corner in sudden winter conditions. In this mode, they are actually worse than 2wd. The tighter a limited slip differential anywhere on the vehicle is, the more it will tend to do this same thing. The one time I slid off the road with the GV, I believe this played a role. I was in 4H on a extremely slick road, going into a corner. I think one or more wheels started slipping, just from the stiffness of the center differential. The road was so slippery, the yaw forces were so low that the stability control system did not activate even after I steered more sharply into the corner. I should have applied the brakes, so I wouldn't have gone so far off, but I ran out of time to think about what to do. This slippage is ok when "off roading" because you don't have the cornering forces trying to throw you into the ditch, and things happen more slowly. 4L Lock. The only difference here is that the center differential has two gears, and this engages the second of them. This gearing halves the speed in any given gear, so you can climb steeper hills, engine brake more slowly downhill, or creep through really rough stuff.
I've done a couple of 4WD training courses with work, some good advice in them, some a bit questionable. They advised us to engage 4WD H as soon as we left tarmac onto an unsurfaced road that you can travel up to 80km/h fairly safely on. What would be your thoughts on this? Should you engage 4H on an unsurfaced road (80km/h) or drive more conservatively in 2H maybe
Yes. You should absolutely engage 4wd on gravel roads, especially when pulling a trailer. The safety advantage is absolutely massive, because 4wd gives you much more control during emergency maneuvers. If you have to swerve to avoid an animal or a vehicle that has come onto your side of the road, 4wd dramatically decreases the chance of spinning out and losing control of the car. This video demonstrates the difference in traction and handling. After you watch it, you'll never drive on gravel in 2wd again: ruclips.net/video/EBmw6Wpfe6M/видео.html&ab_channel=4xoverland
I mean, if you dont know when you need 4H/4L, do you really even need a 4wd? This is like someone going out and buy a candy red Stratocaster and asking when they should turn on the distortion pedal... .... like, one thing at a time, dude.
TBF GUITARS The question I posted was not when to use 4wd. I’ve got over 15years 4wd experience and many different vehicles. My question was in fact to clarify if I could tow on very wet bitumen surfaces or gravel in 4H to make it slightly safer for my family and not to brake anything as my prado had constant 4wd and the new Ranger obviously doesn’t. Not even the dealer could give me a straight answer. No need to be condescending in your statement. I’ve travelled halfway around Australia towing and every second “expert” had a different view on this topic, thus my question to John. Enjoy your weekend.
All of this is a big argument in favour of vehicles with a centre diff. Best of all, the ability to select 2WD when it is a sealed road and dry, 4WD with centre diff if it is a bit wet or on good gravel, or any other time you want that bit of extra grip, lock the centre diff when it is loose or slippery, down to low range when it gets really gnarly, and maybe lock the rear diff too if you need it. Mitsubishi Super Select, in other words, or something like it. I wouldn't have a 4x4 vehicle with no centre diff. Old, outdated technology.
Exactly, you spend 99% of your your time driving on road but you then modify your vehicle so it is dogshit to drive on road and can’t enter any underground car parks just so you can be a hero 1% of the time when that 1% of the time your stock vehicle was probably good enough anyway. Personally I just keep my car stock because I know as soon as you do get stuck there will be five guys in singlets fighting each other off with sticks to show off their new gear and pull you out.
In army I got training for that shit(I have driven Pinz gauer 4x4x, 6x6, T55 tank...)
Options are; 2H, 4H, 2L and 4L. military vehicles have aditional lock for each differential.
Basically you never drive in 4H it just never got to happen, you are destroying all stuff down there if you are doing that. Only one circumference when 4H is allowed is when your rear drive shaft is destroyed and you gotta get the hell out of there.
If it's all flat and fine drive in 2H
Things get bit messy 2L
You are about to get stuck 4L.
That is driving in rough terrain lesson.
Driving at high speed 4x4 heat up all differentials and induce huge amount of stress for all bits down there.
I believe there are vehicles where all this is different like all time 4x4 with central diff lock or any smart 4x4 system
Thanks John. Good quick information. Straight to the point with a bit of humour. Sound like a engineer talking whilst adding a bit of humour instead of a comedian trying to be a engineer. 👍🏻
Many engineers can formulate a humour better than a comedian, but not many can present it as well as Mr. Cadogan. :)
@@KenanTurkiye Most of the time mr kenan
A lot of excellent advice as usual. I 100% agree with your suggestion on getting training. I am happy to report that most of the advice you've given on many 4x4 topics is exactly what I learnt doing the course. I've met plenty of people with much more time experience than me struggle with things that they really shouldn't because they really have no idea.
Thanks John, I have a MY12 Mitsoshiti Challenger manual transmission with 4wd 'on the fly'. I bought it new in 2013 and love the trans, all be it a 5 speeder, and have always been impressed with the 4wd shifting lever/mechanism and centre diff lock.
I remember about 20 years ago in the 60 series one time, it was all twisted up on the road. We stopped and got it and scratched our heads.... Turns out it was still in 4x4 with front and rear air lockers still engaged. Nothing broke but she relaxed let out and audible sigh when we disengaged the lockers.
Thanks John. This week in our newly purchased 2014 Ford Ranger base model 3.2, 4x4 we found out what happens when you drive 4h for 30min on a high traction wet road. After stopping and pulling a stuck person (landcruiser) out of a very muddy verge. We packed up in the rain and continued on. The 4h was disengaged while still in Drive and away we went. 5mins later driver stated it felt funny, but soon after said it was fine. 30mins later we stopped because of the strong burny oil smell. Popped the hood to find diff oil sprayed all over the left side of the engine bay. Checked the diff oil it was LOW LOW LOW. So crawl into the next town at 50khp, get diff oil, refill and flush. All good holiday saved.
Always deselect or select 2wd and 4wd options in neutral and go forward and reverse a bit in the older Ford Ranger. No blame here we are both new to this 4x4 stuff.
I recon advises like this one helps a lot of people. I purchased my 1st 4WD in 1990. I wish I had those advices then. Most of the men seems to know all but when you see Land Cruiser get bogged in sand and you’re passing in front wheel drive then you appreciate the knowledge.
Informative and entertaining, as always. 👍 I owned a 4x4 Toyota Tacoma (I’m in Canada), and one thing the techs told me is that you do need to drive in 4H at least once a month for about 15 minutes. They said it keeps all parts lubricated, etc. They said dry roads are ok in a straight line. They didn’t mention wet roads, so thank you for the tip!
Remember this when coming onto the tarmac when you've been on beach or dirt tracks for a few days. I did a u turn fully loaded off Fraser and felt my front wheel skip a few times. I'd imagine is goes skip, skip snap.
I did a 4WD course in mid-2019 and it was invaluable keeping in touch with how these vehicles drive and basic principles.
I did Tiffany in 2019...
@@AutoExpertJC Basic principles.
@@AutoExpertJC did Tiffany have the sex change operation in 2017 or 2016?
Tom was a nice guy I might add.
@@AutoExpertJC lol fucking gold!!!
@@AutoExpertJC Did ol' Tiff charge extra for you to wear the fishnets?
On a serious note, I'm shocked that not every transfer case has a centre diff. Every day is a school day!
Back in the late 90's I recall the Pajero's had: 4H, 4H - centre diff lock, 4L - centre diff lock.
I recall that in 4H (no centre diff lock) that it was good to go on tarmac.
I've got a 94 model with super select 4WD and a viscous coupled centre differential. Great for greasy roads and at boat ramps.
Good to see a Mallcrawer spec as the thumbnail. Suits the Mallcrawer narrative pitched towards the stereotype with no idea driving around at Westfield.
You know the type, they hold the steering wheel with one hand at the 11:00 position, lean their body to one side (full gangster), bolt hideous black flares on, upgrade to cheap low profile Monsta Grappler tyres on cheap oversized wheels. Oh, the most important modification is a cheap shortcut strut spacer lift in the front and leaf block, or extended shackles in the back; which makes them think they are in a big rig, yet has absolutely no suspension down travel (droop) and is dangerous.
And they turn corners like they're turning a 53 foot long trailer. And maybe the lovely silver dangling testicle thingy on the tow ball, because they're so manly.
For the last 10 years I was driving different 4wd vehicles true the bush tracks ( gold prospecting) and never used 4h, 4l or lock dif because these vehicles are very capable in 2wd mode and I did find some challenging tracks. So I appreciate your explanation because you never know when I'm going to need it. Cheers
Never would have known it was unscripted. John, you are a very talented broadcaster!
Much prefer the unscripted segments mate. Just info without the bs makes these videos gold. Thanks
U sayen he's bullshitten
I agree. Very much enjoying the no-nonsense unscripted clips.
Nah, bit of scripting and journalistic linguistic acrobatics is always good craic! 🙌
I love the scripts but sometimes it's easy to lose track of the sentence.
I was thinking of emailing a question about the other then this video popped up and answered some of the questions. Once i gathered what was delivered the rest fell into place. Being a grey nomad in waiting or someone heading to dingo piss creek either versions gets heaps of tips from your insightful videos. Thank you!!
After many years of driving off road water tankers in the fire brigade you get to know how dangerous conditions can become. I’ve also driven in the snow for many years and the Pajero super select has been fantastic for traction in varying conditions.
It makes it hard to want to drive any other 4wd that can’t be used on sealed roads regardless of the improvements in safety features and creature comforts.
@David Squibular I’m a bit confused when it comes to Prado, especially the newer models. I don’t think @AutoExpertJohnCadogan included them in his group of vehicles that “bind up” in 4H on high traction services but that doesn’t explain if they in fact maintain a good level of traction at moderate speeds on icy mountain roads.
I’ve found the old Pajero to be quite good in this environment but I’m not aware of the newer Prado’s ability in this terrain either.
re: risk homeostasis, the fact that so many people use safety features as performance enhancments, means me and my Paramedic colleagues, will never be out of a job.
@@Jay151 Hi Joel, maybe your comment was slightly tongue-in-cheek, but seriously speaking, if your Wrangler scares you, there may be some work you can do to it as my Wrangler drives as sweet as any other vehicle I've driven. I did do a fair amount of work to it to make it drive 'normally' though! We drive routinely, fully loaded, on multi-thousand km tours and at the signposted speed limits (including NT at 130...). Please take this comment as more out of concern and not taking the P...
It's the safety features that keep you in a job, if you are moving fast enough that the seatbelt stops you from going to the morgue, then it will send you to intensive care instead.
Here's an idea for you John. Explain to my mate with his flash new ute with bull bar and brush bars and lift kit and cb and dual batteries and awning and a heap of other shit that he doesn't use why he should stop labouring through corners in 3rd and 4th gear. He doesn't believe that the tremendous shuddering and labouring means anything and has to drop down to second gear after every corner like its the first time it's ever happened to him. In his defence, I've seen plenty of other people who have nothing wrong with labouring either.
PS. Could you please tell him his "truck" looks "heaps tough"? Nobody else has yet and I can't keep a straight face long enough after calling it a truck to finish the sentence.
Had my ranger for 6 months, never had it in 4h,will be very careful when i do, keep it up john love it
Really enjoyed this analysis, and is how I drive whilst towing and on dirt roads, made a heap of sense to me, Cheers Andrew.
Wow! Never thought I'd hear someone say NOT to use 4WD, but John has done it, and made a case for WHY one shouldn't. #respect. But I miss the friendly smiling MALS red dude in his hat.
Thanks John, awesome 👏 info. Learned something new today, keep it rolling mate 🤜🤛
Jose, you should’ve thanked me too as I asked the question 🤣
@@vivanlife5659 thanks Ben! Great question mate! 😂 seriously though, we do need to ask the hard questions 👏👍
A simple explanation even a mechanic could understand 👍👍
New career in teaching in the offering.
None scripted is good. Well explained.
Fully agree. I've seen many examples were people could have done with some 4WD and caravan towing training.
An interesting report John. It's always nice to have these facts re-affirmed every now and then. It also reminds me. I should update my skills and not just think that I can handle this situation or that because I used to be able to.
I totally agree with your explanation BUT the card behind the drivers side sun visor of my 2010 Pajero NT 3.2 L diesel recommends driving in 4H when towing!!! I tried to add a photo of this card but couldn't.
My Ranger used to have big trouble taking off at the lights on a wet sloping road. I would engage 4H until I got moving and slip back into 2H then. Avoided turning the wheel until I got back into 2H. The Ute is so light in the arse, it had zero traction to get moving and just sat and snaked around. 4H got her moving promptly, but I was aware enough to turn it off ASAP on a hard surface.
We were told when we went to Fraser Island many years ago to try and keep 4WD engaged as much as possible to ease the wear on the tracks, but you really needed to use your own judgment there. After all, an expensive drivetrain was at stake.
Why doesn't the Ranger (and most of the others) come with an unlockable centre diff? It baffles me, my Triton does, I just leave it in 4H permanently, wet or dry. Weird.
@@joelcolgate3683 Yeah, it doesn't even have a telescopic steering wheel.
Damn John , over. 300K ! Fantastic !
That's why I love my Suzuki GV in the wet. like the Range Rover and the upper level tritons with a centre diff, 4H is ok on high traction surfaces. In fact the Suzuki does not offer 2H at all, which I know you are very ok with.
Yesss, when the road gets slippery we select 4H on the fly in our Pajero Sport and its like jumping onto rails. High traction 4H is yet another reason we chose the Pajero Sport, it would be sad if Renault Nissan replace them with their less advanced clunkers.
@@klaatubaradanikto984 - Mitsubishi are the lead developers of the next gen Navara / Triton, I would think Super Select II survives for the future Triton but the engine will most likely will be "Renault" sourced, there is also some speculation (take that for what you will) that Navara is going back to rear leaf springs which is a plus and negative depending on your views about said rear suspension for this type of vehicle, the next gen Pajero Sport (being there won't be a Pajero) will retain it's current set up but again with a "Renault" sourced engine.
John the Ford Everest unless otherwise mentioned being RWD are actually AWD* standard with 4x4 Low range, it's understandable that many have made this error since many think the Everest and Ranger and near identical save for the face that one is a ute and the other is a large wagon, their driveline set up are vastly different unless they happen to be "rear wheel drive only" versions.
The AWD version in Ford Everest is basically a RWD bias AWD torque split (hardware torque split) system, something like 40% front 60% rear in normal mode, the centre differential remains open as the hardware has to provide variable torque split rear to front, the closest you can get to 50/50 torque split in the Everest is switching off DSC (Ford speak for Traction, Roll Over Mitigation and Stability Control) which then splits torque split to 50/50 while the centre differential remains open (as it can't me manually locked as there is no provision to do that), of course this is not a viable method either as once you have slip somewhere (no matter which tyre slips) whatever ever direction up to 50% torque will go to that tyre slip and there is no brake torque control (BTC is controlled by ABS which pulsars the brake calliper of the wheel which is slipping to send that torque to where traction is best as that is part of DSC) to control slip, in short it then comes down to driver skill to effectively use the vehicles AWD ability to get out of trouble or general driving without DSC on (which I don't recommend unless you need engine torque + slip like driving through light mud or sand but don't need full on 4x4 low range), the good thing here is that Ford Everest does have several "Terrain Management Systems" modes the driver can use before needing the drastic action of switching off the electronics.
The Mitsubishi Pajero Sport (all versions) and Several Triton variants have something called "Super Select II" which is basically All Wheel Drive or what they call 4H which is similar to the Ford Everest with AWD which means the driver can use that mode on all traction surfaces without issues, I used to own a Pajero Sport (GLX trim) and basically left 4H always on so it was in AWD mode, fuel consumption was probably about 5% worse then just being in 2H (RWD) mode, that said even Super Select II while very good does not make up for the fact the Pajero Sport was no where near the levels of the Ford Everest overall, my main complaint about the Pajero Sport was the poor body roll and ride balance that said I preferred the hydraulic steering over the Everest electric steering set up.
I find the Pajero and Pajero Sport to be quite good in 4wd high on low and high traction surfaces although without hill decent the Pajero may benefit from reduction gears. I didn’t know the Everest had a similar capability to drive on high traction surfaces in 4wd. Thanks.
@@Rockbottomsurf - the Everest is AWD (unless sold as a RWD only which not many are), the AWD system is very similar to the former Ford Territory (SY onwards so 2011) as its a variable torque split (40 front 60 rear) but has a pre-charge of 10 (front) / 90 (rear) for most driving conditions, the Pajero Sport (not sure about the older Pajero) has something similar when using 4H (re: AWD mode) although the torque split % are different, from memory only 20% to the front and 80% rear and each time you start the vehicle you have to engage 4H every time. It's shame that the ranger in this PX and PX MkII Generation never got the Everest AWD option, that said I hear the next gen Ranger / Amarok will have the Everest AWD set for certain models (word is that Amarok will have it standard) which have the excellent watts link coil spring live axle rear suspension while leaf spring versions will retain the RWD 4x4 centre diff lock + 4x4 low range.
That was an issue early on when AdBlue was not stocked in regional areas that we'll, today you can fill up AdBlue at the same time you fill up with diesel from many service stations also a lot more regional places now stock adue drums in various container sizes so it's not an issue,
@David Squibular - it depends, John has a great video which answers your question " ruclips.net/video/OEM4NtfqVeQ/видео.html " where he goes into detail about the 3.2L 5cyl turbo diesel vs the 2.0L 4cyl sequential turbo diesel that can be had in Ranger / Everest.
Definitely one of John's better videos.
Jaco, it was a great question 😜 🤣
My 17 Pajero Sport has been in AWD mode since about a month after I bought it - only time it goes into any other mode is when the tracks get a little tricky. Bloody all-terrain mountain goat and beautiful in the wet; even on ATs.
Another excellent video John. Very well explained indeed.
John the advertising tells me very clearly ARB have the gear to “Get you there”. Now “there” could be anywhere but clearly I need the gear to achieve that. 😉
The gear to get home may be more important, lol.
@@kadmow 🤣🤣🤣
@@Jay151 : Often a problem, solo with twin lockers - at the limits, retrieval will be a beast...
Another great video thanks John.
More content. You're a real life Super Hero!
On ya John, nailed it mate.
Jesus you just don’t sleep do you or are you paid by the minute you broadcast. And I just sit here waiting for you to put a smile on my face which you often do thanks pal
Everyone gets paid by the minute, Ron. Except members of parliament, or 'arseholes' as they are technically known.
@@AutoExpertJC you can't tar all arseholes with the same brush it's not fair, some are not politicians.
Great breakdown for the Layman 👍🏻
There is no excuse these days for manufacturers not to fit center differentials on four wheel drive vehicles. I for one will not buy a vehicle that does not have one as I like to have four wheel drive at all times.
Yeah but it's a 19k jump from a hilux to a prado and for how often you are actually
going to need it thats a lot of dollariedoos. I just take abit more care in those situations and keep that money in my back pocket
I’m guessing you drive a Mitsi then?
@@onefinger4125 Sure do.
@@Equiluxe1 yeah me too. Just wished they were built with a bit(a lot) more power.
Great video thanks John
Hi John, perhaps a good bit of advice to your subscribers on this issue would be to read their owners manual. My Pajero manual stated to put the vehicle in H4 mode when towing.
cheers,
Pat.
Your Pajero has a center diff and does not apply to this video. John has stated that at the beginning if you did not listen.
@@falconpatrol3565 yes, I did skip through it a bit......my bad:)
Hi John
Happy Lock-down 🤪, just a quick correction that I’ve noticed nearly EVERY car reviewer make… the Ford Everest (I have a 2018 Trend AWD) is in fact AWD like the Toyota Prado (I have a 2010 GLX). They’re almost the same system, except thePrado has a Center Diff-lock that can be activated manually.
Why does everyone say it’s the old two wheel system when it’s clearly not.
Only wish they had it on the Ranger.
Regards Jeff
Keep up the good work
The other thing is, the traction control system in both the Everest and Ranger remains ON to aid off-road driving. Nearly every other manufacturer disables these systems. Toyota included.
@@jeffoliver4076 - BTC (Brake Torque Control) is used to control slip without affecting power (re: bogging down the engine with fuel cutoff to prevent slip). For most driving conditions it's good but on sand or mud you want a little slip which helps the driver to correct the line they take, which is why LSD (mechanical) back in the day were very good for those conditions.
I read and hear a lot said about vehicle capabilities. More and more it looks like vehicle tech is advancing to help over come our own shortfalls. I don’t know about anyone else but driving under normal circumstances takes a fair amount of concentration. Towing seems to multiply this by factor of about, I don’t know, a shit load.
Towing requires almost clairvoyant like skills to anticipate much further ahead and much further behind. If for nothing other than giving my reaction times some more wriggle room.
Being more conscious of something like…keeping a greater gap between me and the next vehicle or backing off as I approach a freeway merge because I can’t as easily pull into the right lane (and knowing that the driver entering from the on ramp has no idea how to be considerate of traffic already on the freeway)
By the time I get to my destination I am noticeably more tired than I would be otherwise because of all the extra concentration. Despite all the gadgets my car has to help reduce risks, I am still the one that has to think.
Despite all the advanced technology, towing is much more tiring and an often over looked part of towing is take more breaks.
I never hear much really said about this… but maybe it’s just me.
Having all the traction control, anti sway and accident mitigation in the world won’t stop fatigue creeping in. I feel towing is like a steroid for fatigue
The best upgrade you can have is to realise this and adjust accordingly.
Hi John great info on this subject. I own a Ford Everest Trend that have adaptive 4WD as the standard driving setting. (front wheels pickup any slack if the back drive wheels start to slip or are in danger of slipping.)
I have always dropped into 4WD on loose dirt roads. From what you have just enlightened me should I just leave it in "Adaptive" mode on dirt roads until they get too rough?
Graeme
Do you mean adaptive cruise control. The system you are talking about is only in the Mercedes G wagon where you can shift into all wheel drive. You have a Massey Ferguson 4wd which will spend its entire life in rear wheel drive as like all everest and ranger owners it will never leave the tarmac or light gravel.
On a more serious note I have been experimenting with 4H in the wet on an MR Triton. Given it engages traction control merely looking at the throttle in the wet I assume the factory tyres are not that great.
I can’t feel any issue on properly wet roads when actually raining and in 4H. No super select.
@@Jay151 🤣🤣🤣 🤫 not my Triton.
Hi John., so we should take isuzu's claim with the 4H can handle up to 100 k's with a grain of salt?
And mitsubishi's super select-II on the other hand should be fine?
That's the speed up to which you can SWITCH between 2H and 4H ... on a loose surface. Not the max speed of 4H ... it will do much more than that on a loose surface (if you're nuts). But, no 4H at all on sealed roads. Isuzu makes no such claim.
When mounting the landscaped medians at Woollies.
I've never mounted a landscaped median... I have thought about it though. But not in church.
Nice review, John, Thanks
Hey John, love your content! If you want to connect with the youth who are disilussioned and priced out of the housing market, do a segment on vans suitable for living in, VW Crafter 4motion versus Sprinter versus Transit, HiAce SLWB. Thanks, Christ
please give us a brief description of what is happening in the trasfercase when driving in 2H and 2L?
Not many cars have 2L, or at least I can't think of any. If you are in low, then you are in 4WD.
2L ? How many vehicles would have that option?
The only thing I can think off are old Falcon or Commodore which had LSD (Limited Slip Differential) and using 1st gear only.
A modern day version is the Ranger which which allows for the use of the rear differential lock while in 2H RWD using sports mode to lock the transmission into 1st gear only.
Andrew St. Pierre White would partly disagree with you on that one John, and has a video clip testing the different 4WD modes in vehicles equipped with a locking centre diff while towing a trailer in the wet and loose road. Maybe you can ask him to send you the link to his experiment . (unfortunately I can't remember the title, but he would) He apparently claims that when the pavement is not dry and hard, 50/50 torque distribution between front and rear is the safest option.
I call those RHS moments “seemed like a good idea at the time” moments. Had plenty of those over the years! ;p
All of this is sound advice 👌
I just want to know if Dingo Piss Creek is before or after you get to Bumfuck Nowhere?
Please explain
Great video
Super John,
My banal question: what model is that G-Shock?
What I would like to know, as a 4X4 newcomer is, should I regularly engage the 4 wheel drive just to ensure that the working parts remain adequately lubricated? I don't know how it works and what I know about the mechanical side of 4X4 could be written on the back of a postage stamp. Is it necessary to regularly engage it to keep it in good order. I can't any reference in the owners manual.
My Hilux handbook says to engage 4x4 and drive for ten miles once a month.
Liking the different camera angle, John. And is that a new, wider-angle lens? Cheers, mate. :-)
I think I can improve the framing on this shot, but thank you.
A Friday quickie from the guru!
one needs to consider fulltime 4wd vehicles with centre diffs JC
great advice
My D3 has permanent AWD and a nice center diff in the transfer case. I understand why utes have the ratio/awd selector...but I think time has moved on.
' Software upgrade !'........ Love it.
So is it a problem if I've been running up and down the freeway and haven't engaged 4H for months?
Should I seek out a slippery dirt track to give the 4WD system a run?
Love your vids, keep up the great work!
It’s fine. If it troubles you though just engage 4WD in whilst driving in straight line for 20m or so, once or twice a year to wet the gears and move the solenoids. Slippery tracks are more fun though…
Good information John. Me thinks you speak some common sense! 👍
Hey John, thanks for the straight shooting. What's going on with a full time all wheel drive, like my BMW X3? What voodoo is managing that situation? Transfer case?
Modern X3s use an electronically controlled multi-plate clutch pack that connects the rear axle to the front. Allowing it to be because more or less AWD depending on traction needs, it's technically not a differential. But it acts as a center diff.
You know straight away if you are on a surface with to much traction. Steering gets really heavy and its obvious somthings wrong. Best bet is to pull on to the verge and back and foward a few times to let it pop back into 2wd as it will be bound up
as a 200 series land cruiser owner, which is full time four wheel drive, driving 4 wheels all the time, why dont they have lock up issues? is this due to the centre diff in the transfer case, or the split 51/49% rear/front drive? I will note, locking the centre diff on dirt roads when towing my expensive toilet, gives me a whole new feel and response when moving 6.2 tons odd along said dirt roads.
Yes; the allowance for the two output shafts to spin at different rates is the entire reason the device is called a 'differential.'
@@mpf1947 yes, im aware of what a differential does, how it works. you have not answered my question. New 4x4's with front lockable hubs can still drive in 4 high, but this report says you shouldnt on high traction surfaces, but here i am, doing it everyday, with no issues. Why the conflicting advice regarding using 4h then?
@@glenod mpf answered your question...and so did you. Your 200 has a centre differential which can be locked. If a new, modern 4wd doesn't have a centre diff, then it's no bueno engaging 4H on a high traction surface...end of...btw, modern 4wd's don't have lockable hubs, those front shafts are turning whenever your vehicle proceeds.
@@Imos99 right. got it. forgive my ignorance that new 4wds like the 76/79 series land cruiser has front lockable hubs, some manual, some even auto i see. ( still have a centre diff ) These new you beaut modern 4x4s you speak of are part time 4 wheel drives, and only engage when their puters tell them too when they get all slippy slippy in the mud or greasy bitumen.Turning shafts and shafts delivering traction/power to the road is very different from full time four wheel drive.
@@glenod Part-time 4WD is a 4WD system that you can only use part time, meaning in slippery conditions. What your describing is actually automatic AWD. And many 4WD systems have an automatic AWD setting that can be used on road full time. Your land cruiser is actually AWD most of the time too, a lot like an Audi, both using torsen center diffs. It only becomes 4WD when you lock the center diff. So basically to summarize is 4H in the land cruiser=AWD and 4high in a part time 4WD vehicle=4WD.
Now explain engaging L4 for those that believe you can do this on the run too 😎👍🍻
Everyone who buys a 4x4 should be forced to watch this video. Had someone in the car park yesterday hopping their car into a park in 4WD. Sent shivers down the spine
Was that a Bunnings carpark? lol I was just typing my comment and saw yours.
I know an idiot that just yesterday drove 20km on dry bitumen in 4H(country roads at least), strangely apart from one corner feeling a little "understeery" I didn't notice. Then did a Uturn on a four lane road, its like having the handbrake on it, damn near stopped. Happily nothing broken, though I my have shortened the life of something. Still kicking myself.
Soo.. should i be driving ny ranger in 2H while towing my 2t camping trailer? I’ve been using 4H up tight mountain ranges in bitumen is that bad?
Very.
@@royblackburn1163 Very, very bad. I suspect the OP is having a lend.
Another analogy or perhaps explanation would be to have a solid axle with fixed wheels going in a circle, the're gonna scuff!
Can I just make an observation: driving on loose dirt roads in 4wd does not significantly increase fuel consumption. I've done thousands of Ks on crappy corrugated roads and have seen many flipped 4wd utes and wagons on the side of the road which could've been prevented by knocking it into 4wd.
Most new cars can go 100kmh in 4wd safely on loose dirt roads. I'm not saying your suspension would like that speed, but make sure you're at least in 4wd before going fast on dirt.
Exactly, spent decades having to offroad for work and to do courses, if you're not travelling in 4H on unsealed surfaces, you are risking everything, maybe John should get himself up to date before risking viewers lives.
@@tadstertrolley7770 Umm, unsealed roads are not all loose surfaces. It’s the available grip that matters
@@Corey-pd3mi seen plenty of clowns that have been travelling over 80kmh on what they thought was a hard surface, lost a small amount of traction, run off the road and flipped their utes. In a lot of companies, it is SOP to engage 4H on any unsealed road.
@@tadstertrolley7770 I would agree if the ute is unladen, they can be quite skippy. Company SOP is different to private ownership. Company has two cater for all types and all conditions , has duty of care and insurance so blowing the odd transfer case is cost of doing business
@@Corey-pd3mi haven't seen a blown transfer case on any rangers or hilux's because they were using 4H on hard unsealed surfaces yet over 100s of 1000ks, and do the same with wagons. You think it would be in a SOP if it risked leaving their employees stranded in remote areas.
Hi John,
I own a 2020 Pajero GLX, im sure Mitsubishi claim that their vehicles that have super select is capable of being in 4H on the bitumen, is there truth to this?
Yes.
Love your work. Jovial J.C.
If I was an engineer, which as an accountant I am not, I would engineer some diff like connection between the front and back wheels to allow for the tyres to all move at different speeds while getting power from the engine. I would also add a button or lever that allows me to lock this centre fancy tool to allow the back and front wheels to move at the same speed. Sounds like a smart idea. Wait, why do I think something like that already exists? My bloody ideas are always taken 🙄
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsen
Even an ‘old’ style defender (usually full-time 4wd) has a centre-diff.... when the centre diff-lock is engaged, ‘wind-up’ is an issue on high friction surfaces. Obviously 4wd utes and pick-ups don’t have a centre diff.... who knew?
You win todays internet...
@@Jay151 Nuh, that's not how that works. Locking centre diffs negate the differential action.
@@Jay151 Hi Joel, a transfer case doesn't always have a "diff" in it. Only in an AWD. Hope this helps...
Super Select 😁
the Peltzman effect does indeed create a disincentive
Stream of Consciousness man.
Great video. Fantastic explanation. Make training a substantial discount on insurance and educate the mofos
Gonna miss your increased regularity of vids once lock down ends…
will it end? I'm hearing end of October ... the current state government are shitting the collective pants right now and it appears that the Murdoch media are about to unleash hell on the Premier in the following days / weeks maybe forcing her to resign, if Rupert is pissed at you your days are numbered.
" ... 3T fully loaded ... also called the ATM" ... that's an unfortunate abbreviation
Aggregate Trailer Mass...
So in most cases are you better off towing with an AWD than A 4WD?
The wide angle lens is bad. Distortion of the cap peak is distracting!
Is it? How can you tell, your eyes are closed!
I know it shouldn't be, but my mate runs his work dmax in high range at all times, it faults when in 2h. Highway driving, no towing or off roading.
Sounds like the transfer case has been built upside down and 4WD is actually 2WD 😂
@@Corey-pd3mi nope. Definitely engaging 4wd.
John is worthy to lift the hammer.
Everyone must drive like they at work all the time.
In the eyes of the law, every one behind the wheel of any motor vehicle is ultimately responsible for their actions and outcomes.
No such thing as freak accidents or act of one of your favorite pretend Gods.
They are caused, and as far as the police is concerned, if someone dies on the road then possibly some one at fault will probably go do a bit of ankle grabbing at HER Majesties pleasure.
Why do you think the police and accident investigations spend so much time at the scene. Its so they can gather as much evidence as they can to put someone behind bars.
And as far as towing heavy shit goes, the blame can start from the driver upwards to the manufacturer including service personnel and the dealer that will exaggerate the capabilities of the vehicle just to win you over.
Believe me SHIT CAN AND DOES RUN UPHILL.
But there are accidents. Rg. You drive a shitbox Jeep and it suddenly bursted into fire.
@@GuitarsRockForever "Be a pity if your Jeep were to suddenly catch fire." Accident?? No, deliberately poor design and/or manufacturing. As HAL9000 said, "It can only be attributed to human error". Accident still bears the psych label of 'nobody at fault', and that's been proven wrong. If there's an accident, somewhere a human screwed up. Design, manufacturing, lack of concentration caused by fatigue or distraction, fear, panic, lack of awareness of risk, lack of mitigation or removal of risk, it's truly all our fault. Today it may all be my fault (it always is, read the fine print), but tomorrow it could be your turn (also in the fine print below the part where it's all my fault, unless I get a day off).
Cool man.
Cheers John! 🤣Viviers
You go through alot of tires?
"old school" =4h+4L? ... My 25 yr old jeep has AWD as well as 4h,2H+4L...........how old is yr school exactly?
Bit different on the old Suzuki GV ......4H is normal running mode with no problem with the 4WD system.
4H - the center differential is a limited slip in this mode. The front and rear "axle" differentials are engaged. The GV doesn't have axles in that sense because the fully independent suspension requires the use of shorter shafts with constant velocity joints. The front and rear differentials are what's called "open", which means they are simple. These simple differentials are funny. On one hand, they have no ability to allow the different turn rates such as happens during cornering. On the other hand, if a wheel starts spinning, they put all their power into uselessly spinning the wheel lacking traction. This means that on pavement, cornering is impaired, while on slippery surfaces, they allow useless wheelspin.
A completely plain center differential, when engaged, will still allow the front, or the back, or two diagonally opposite wheels to spin when the traction difference/power differential reaches a certain point. And yes, that's pretty useless. At the same time, when on pavement, the system is so locked together that when cornering, the system will build up and release stress to the point where the vehicle does something that's aptly described as "crow hopping".
The GV's limited slip center differential locks the wheels together (up to a point) but at the same time allows for slippage for cornering. This is equivalent to an AWD setup. Limited slip differentials can be built to provide varying amounts of resistance to slippage. The "stiffer" they are, the more they resist wheelspin, but the more they resist the wheels turning at different rates. Sometimes, when backing up with the wheels at full lock, you may experience some lurching or clunking noises from the drivetrain. That's because of the stiffness of the limited slip differential. The stiffer the differential, the more stress you place on drivetrain components.
On the GV, traction control using the ABS and the brakes is used to detect and stop wheelspin, which makes up somewhat for the lack of lockable or limited slip differentials at the axles.
So what this means is that in 4H, the GV drives through all four wheels, and the slippable center differential allows being in 4wd on pavement because the slippage allows for cornering.
4H Lock. After explaining that, it's easier to understand 4H High. 4H High means the center differential is locked. This makes it more like an old fashioned simple system. On one hand, the front or rear wheels, or two diagonally opposite wheels theoretically can't spin. I use the word "theoretically" because of something I'll get to later. You shouldn't use this mode on bare dry pavement because you don't need it, and because it will stress the driveline components, cost mileage, and induce unwanted forces into cornering dynamics.
I would suggest NOT using this mode for slippery highway driving. The reason is that when you initiate a turn, even a slight one, a locked center differential will resist wheels turning at different speeds. It wants them all to be turning at the same rate. In a corner, this will cause one or more wheels to slip relative to the road surface. A wheel sliding even a tiny bit has a huge loss of the traction you need for cornering. In combination with the high center of gravity and stiffer suspensions, this is why you see so many SUV's in the ditch on the first slippery corner in sudden winter conditions. In this mode, they are actually worse than 2wd.
The tighter a limited slip differential anywhere on the vehicle is, the more it will tend to do this same thing. The one time I slid off the road with the GV, I believe this played a role. I was in 4H on a extremely slick road, going into a corner. I think one or more wheels started slipping, just from the stiffness of the center differential. The road was so slippery, the yaw forces were so low that the stability control system did not activate even after I steered more sharply into the corner. I should have applied the brakes, so I wouldn't have gone so far off, but I ran out of time to think about what to do.
This slippage is ok when "off roading" because you don't have the cornering forces trying to throw you into the ditch, and things happen more slowly.
4L Lock. The only difference here is that the center differential has two gears, and this engages the second of them. This gearing halves the speed in any given gear, so you can climb steeper hills, engine brake more slowly downhill, or creep through really rough stuff.
Do not use 4H on twisty wet bitumen roads. It causes the front wheels to understeer/skid on tight corners.
Unless it is a Triton or Pajero with Super Select, in these vehicles 4H is actually an AWD setting.
I've done a couple of 4WD training courses with work, some good advice in them, some a bit questionable. They advised us to engage 4WD H as soon as we left tarmac onto an unsurfaced road that you can travel up to 80km/h fairly safely on. What would be your thoughts on this? Should you engage 4H on an unsurfaced road (80km/h) or drive more conservatively in 2H maybe
Yes. You should absolutely engage 4wd on gravel roads, especially when pulling a trailer. The safety advantage is absolutely massive, because 4wd gives you much more control during emergency maneuvers. If you have to swerve to avoid an animal or a vehicle that has come onto your side of the road, 4wd dramatically decreases the chance of spinning out and losing control of the car.
This video demonstrates the difference in traction and handling. After you watch it, you'll never drive on gravel in 2wd again: ruclips.net/video/EBmw6Wpfe6M/видео.html&ab_channel=4xoverland
Still no card “up there” John
I mean, if you dont know when you need 4H/4L, do you really even need a 4wd?
This is like someone going out and buy a candy red Stratocaster and asking when they should turn on the distortion pedal... .... like, one thing at a time, dude.
TBF GUITARS
The question I posted was not when to use 4wd. I’ve got over 15years 4wd experience and many different vehicles. My question was in fact to clarify if I could tow on very wet bitumen surfaces or gravel in 4H to make it slightly safer for my family and not to brake anything as my prado had constant 4wd and the new Ranger obviously doesn’t. Not even the dealer could give me a straight answer.
No need to be condescending in your statement. I’ve travelled halfway around Australia towing and every second “expert” had a different view on this topic, thus my question to John.
Enjoy your weekend.
Or maybe buying just buying what they want? You know, free country (once), personal choice and all that. All anybody “needs” is GAZ M21.
I never use 4H, its too easy for me to forget to turn it off, I only ever use 4L or 2H, but that's just me.
All of this is a big argument in favour of vehicles with a centre diff. Best of all, the ability to select 2WD when it is a sealed road and dry, 4WD with centre diff if it is a bit wet or on good gravel, or any other time you want that bit of extra grip, lock the centre diff when it is loose or slippery, down to low range when it gets really gnarly, and maybe lock the rear diff too if you need it. Mitsubishi Super Select, in other words, or something like it.
I wouldn't have a 4x4 vehicle with no centre diff. Old, outdated technology.
Exactly, you spend 99% of your your time driving on road but you then modify your vehicle so it is dogshit to drive on road and can’t enter any underground car parks just so you can be a hero 1% of the time when that 1% of the time your stock vehicle was probably good enough anyway.
Personally I just keep my car stock because I know as soon as you do get stuck there will be five guys in singlets fighting each other off with sticks to show off their new gear and pull you out.