hey EZGZ that was pretty cool, between you and VWDarren and my local machinist Steve,the MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR is back on the road, running great, no oil leaks, getting it broke in, i'm a happy camper, tank you for sharing❤️
+73VWsuper Out on the sand dunes we were always having issues and this was my way to check. Finally they started making those Pertronix pointless ignitions and that made life easier. This method works with Pertronix too.
BRILLIANT!!! My tools and belongings were stolen about two weeks ago, and not a soul, other than you has helped. I'm doing an 89 VW Fox, and I so have hope!!! All its been needing was this, static timing. I thought it was timing effecting the car, and did a rookie move trying to move it, as it was 6 too far fast the day before it died, when it was actually a fuel relay switch. Thank you so so much! I'll let you know if this worked on my late 80s Fox.
Used your technique for setting the timing and it worked great. Got my new aircraft 1600 SP up and running on the first attempt. Got a video of the first startup if you're interested. Don't have your Email or I would have sent it.
I have been watching videos for a while now. They are always good.Ever wonder if there is a way to check maximum timing without a timing light? been trying to figure it out a long time.Just watched your video and thought of the following... What if I were to remove the plate inside the distributor, then set the weight(s) to where full time would be, and then do the static timing procedure........? Should work.... What do you all think?
I use a timing light so never really thought about it.. Darn good question though. I think your plan is on the right track. I wonder if you could use a protractor and measure the travel of the rotor when you have the cap off. That would be another way. It is a physical measurable movement?? Love it when folks like you make contributions that are out of the box tradition.
Thank you, appreciate that. Really impressed that you replied. You're like a RUclips star for me. Too cool. Another inspiration of mine is the TV character MacGyver (always thinking out of the box....)I've watched all your Dellorto videos a couple of times..... trying to figure mine out. Was up till 3:30am fiddling with them cuz I don't have the Unisync balance tool
A very simple way to do it. I made a slight variation, in that I used a spark indicator bulb, which flashes when there is a spark on the plug to which it is fitted. Of course on a flat four, you can't see the plugs when they are in situ and you are by the crank pulley.
If you have a performance cam and reasonable compression I would try 10 BTC . You might also want to try higher octane fuel. If your having issues I would only static time to get it started and use a timing light to see what happening with your timing curve. Check to see if the divider plates were installed between and under the cylinders, above the pushrod tubes.. 1776 is one of my favorite engines. I've never had heating issuers
Question, where do I touch the test light Inside of distributor? And the dizzy as two wires hanging , which one do I attach the clip of light? Thanks a mill
I'm pretty much the same but I set the crank at the desired BTDC and turn the dizzy..This can be done on all distributors and magneto's..BTW...I'm not sure how a VW engine likes it but here I always set the timing by ear and on the street...tall gear..low to medium revs...and mash the loud pedal....No ping and I give it a little more timing till we get some rattle and then back it off a smidgen..Best way to find it's happy place 'cos things wear and no two engines react the same even if they are built identically...They both go well but one (the freak) goes better.?..An unexplainable phenomenon for sure...I gave up wondering why years ago and just accept it now...lol....
+ZIGgassedUP With today's gas changing all the time I play it safe. I used to do it by ear and check it with the timing light. I think some of the differences you describe are personalities of individual internals inside the dizzy. Remember when you could change the spring and make them advance quicker? Colorado gas changes drastically from summer to winter.
I feel dumb for asking this, but I don’t understand exactly what you are doing. Based on what I see, you disconnect spark plug wire #1, put it outside with a spark plug touching ground, but you add another spark plug in cylinder #1 and add a spare spark plug wire to cylinder #1. So 5 spark plugs in total, then you turn key into ignition, then rotate pulley to to TDC which will create a spark? I’ve watched this video like 6 times.
Ok, The idea is to static time your engine without using a test light or a strobe gun. I'm to lazy to take out the number 1 plug. I still need to know exactly when the spark happens at idle speed. So I put the crankshaft on TDC with power on and everything ready to go I turn the crankshaft slowly by hand and wait for the spark plug to spark. That tells me when on the degree wheel. If you want to change it you turn the distributor body a small amount until the spark is happening exactly where you want it.
What about burning up the points just asking because I’ve always been told never leave the ignition on for more than a moment with out starting the engine
Who uses points nowdays.... Switch to electronic. I use Pertronix. They don't carbon up, your timing stays the same and nobody makes replacement points like the old day's. Ether way I have never had a problem doing a short term test and having it hurt my points.
I use a similar method, but a little bit different: instead of removing a spark plug i just remove the wire that goes from distributor cap to the ignition coil from the distributor, leaving the other end in the coil and check for a spark. Much easier and faster than removing a spark plug in my opinion.
@@TheEZGZhey dont get me wrong i watched it, its just that not everyone might have an old spark plug laying around, i once got stranded because my electronic ignition got burnt because i used the wrong coil so i installed the plates and condenser back on the roadside and used this method to set the timing. Im not saying your method is bad or anything its actually really helpful.
Thanks EZGZ. I guess I can use this trick to do timing of electronic distributor. In your experience, how much static advance I should set for electronic vacuum distributor on 1300 DP Super Beetle?
Nope! Just follow the directions.. Red goes to 15 and don't look back. Never had a failure in `25 years. No more wondering what your timing is and fiddling with point gap
I'm curious, I've been setting my timing this way for a while now. I'm trying to get my bug going again and made sure it is on tdc even taking off the valve cover to check the valves. The light now doesn't come on. Checked the light and it does work. What would cause this? Bad ground?
I'm using a spark plug! I do this because it is proving the whole ignition system is working properly. If your using a test light or a timing light and having problems it could be poor connections. pitted points if your silly enough to be using points (new points are junk) weak coil. Don't overlook checking inside the dizzy cap and rotor. I always recommend a shop manual as most have trouble shooting sections to isolate components.
hey youre genirator is installed wrong.the post should lean to the right if not it doesnt draw air in thru the back of it tothe front as its supose to,i learned that from my friend whos been fixing vws for 58 years
Simple and cool method. But when I check with the timing light to see if it's in the same spot, my advance is way off by 10 degrees. Why ? Edit: Oops I missed your commentary in the video about it. Static and light have different result OK
TheEZGZ Hi What you thing using Power pack coil and remove old ign sys and fix BETA Electronic Ignition Coil Pack for Opel Astra in typ1 vw engines The price only 30 $ it comes 2 coil to control 4cy
hello sir. Should Ignition be retarded or advanced ? i got a very old 82' car with electronic TDC sensor and distributor mechanism. I've noticed my exhaust burping when given gas at idling, and a slight performance degrade. Thank you for the video. I don't have a tdc pistol liked your method.
Well now I have made a TOTAL mess of things!! The carbs are popping and the so is the muffler (and I mean AAALLLL the time).I did the static full advance check and found something startling. When I used this method to set the full advance to 28degrees BTDC, the timing at idle went to about 20degrees ATDC (Really retarded). So now I am all confused.I think I need to start ALL over from scratch. The car is totally undriveable.I also found that the carb would run fuel after the engine was turned off. And once the engine is running, sounding OK at idle and I press the gas the RPM goes through the roof and won't come back down.So since I found the carb leaking fuel I rechecked the float level BUT it is still racing like hell.Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Don't panic. Stay calm. Sounds to me like you crossed up your spark plug wire's. Make sure that you have those correct. Take off the distributor cap and have a look for cracks, Damage, corrosion, The little carbon tit in the middle goes up and down against the rotor.. I will try and post up a video to help later today or soon. Do you have any kind of a book that has the specs for tune up? If not get one. Let me know what you find.
Unreal, this method was so simple and spot on! Fired right up after years of sitting(but full of clean oil). BAM!! I am off to the woods!!!
hey EZGZ that was pretty cool, between you and VWDarren and my local machinist Steve,the MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR is back on the road, running great, no oil leaks, getting it broke in, i'm a happy camper, tank you for sharing❤️
I never saw this done before...I'm going to try this method on my next tune-up...Thanx for the education !
I tried this method and not getting any spark. Could my distributor be shot? I have electronic distributor and pertronix coil
ive messed with VWs my entire life and never thought of this lol thanks
+73VWsuper Out on the sand dunes we were always having issues and this was my way to check. Finally they started making those Pertronix pointless ignitions and that made life easier. This method works with Pertronix too.
i have never seen a working electronic ignition around here lol points all the way
BRILLIANT!!! My tools and belongings were stolen about two weeks ago, and not a soul, other than you has helped. I'm doing an 89 VW Fox, and I so have hope!!! All its been needing was this, static timing. I thought it was timing effecting the car, and did a rookie move trying to move it, as it was 6 too far fast the day before it died, when it was actually a fuel relay switch. Thank you so so much! I'll let you know if this worked on my late 80s Fox.
Thank You! Glad it helped
Very cool. I have never seen it done this way.
Used your technique for setting the timing and it worked great. Got my new aircraft 1600 SP up and running on the first attempt. Got a video of the first startup if you're interested. Don't have your Email or I would have sent it.
Share it on U tube I'm sure lots of folks would be interested in VW aircraft
Great - hadn't thought of that -- great idea, thanks much.
EZ does it! Thank you for the tip
+Vee Dub P8 Your welcome sir.
Thanks EZ. Always helpful. 👍🏼
I have been watching videos for a while now. They are always good.Ever wonder if there is a way to check maximum timing without a timing light? been trying to figure it out a long time.Just watched your video and thought of the following... What if I were to remove the plate inside the distributor, then set the weight(s) to where full time would be, and then do the static timing procedure........? Should work.... What do you all think?
I use a timing light so never really thought about it.. Darn good question though. I think your plan is on the right track. I wonder if you could use a protractor and measure the travel of the rotor when you have the cap off. That would be another way. It is a physical measurable movement?? Love it when folks like you make contributions that are out of the box tradition.
Thank you, appreciate that. Really impressed that you replied. You're like a RUclips star for me. Too cool. Another inspiration of mine is the TV character MacGyver (always thinking out of the box....)I've watched all your Dellorto videos a couple of times..... trying to figure mine out. Was up till 3:30am fiddling with them cuz I don't have the Unisync balance tool
A very simple way to do it. I made a slight variation, in that I used a spark indicator bulb, which flashes when there is a spark on the plug to which it is fitted. Of course on a flat four, you can't see the plugs when they are in situ and you are by the crank pulley.
Good Job!!!
Great video EZ thankyou for sharing 🤙
Glad you enjoyed it
I got a 1776 seems to overheat runs hot got all metal unit. what should the timing be thanks
If you have a performance cam and reasonable compression I would try 10 BTC . You might also want to try higher octane fuel. If your having issues I would only static time to get it started and use a timing light to see what happening with your timing curve. Check to see if the divider plates were installed between and under the cylinders, above the pushrod tubes.. 1776 is one of my favorite engines. I've never had heating issuers
Nice work GZ , never did it that way before.
+Rusty “rustyglovebox” Glovebox Works on V8 beetles too. I love that monster you built. Would have cut my travel time in half. :-)
Question, where do I touch the test light Inside of distributor? And the dizzy as two wires hanging , which one do I attach the clip of light? Thanks a mill
I'm pretty much the same but I set the crank at the desired BTDC and turn the dizzy..This can be done on all distributors and magneto's..BTW...I'm not sure how a VW engine likes it but here I always set the timing by ear and on the street...tall gear..low to medium revs...and mash the loud pedal....No ping and I give it a little more timing till we get some rattle and then back it off a smidgen..Best way to find it's happy place 'cos things wear and no two engines react the same even if they are built identically...They both go well but one (the freak) goes better.?..An unexplainable phenomenon for sure...I gave up wondering why years ago and just accept it now...lol....
+ZIGgassedUP With today's gas changing all the time I play it safe. I used to do it by ear and check it with the timing light. I think some of the differences you describe are personalities of individual internals inside the dizzy. Remember when you could change the spring and make them advance quicker? Colorado gas changes drastically from summer to winter.
I got sick of getting my timing light back after it got caught up in someone's fan..That's why I don't have one anymore.
Distributor clamp on Type 1s
.easy to loosen clamp nut; Type 3s however, much different clamp nut
Buried and out of sight. Hard to fool with
A good method my uncle showed me when I had my first car (1971 beetle).
+spanermantim I'm sure folks been doing it this way from the start.
Yea but the younger ones don't know about points and condensers and the like.
ezgz, do you have a video for setting advanced timing with a timing light?
I guess I should do that. Thanks
I feel dumb for asking this, but I don’t understand exactly what you are doing. Based on what I see, you disconnect spark plug wire #1, put it outside with a spark plug touching ground, but you add another spark plug in cylinder #1 and add a spare spark plug wire to cylinder #1. So 5 spark plugs in total, then you turn key into ignition, then rotate pulley to to TDC which will create a spark? I’ve watched this video like 6 times.
Ok, The idea is to static time your engine without using a test light or a strobe gun. I'm to lazy to take out the number 1 plug. I still need to know exactly when the spark happens at idle speed. So I put the crankshaft on TDC with power on and everything ready to go I turn the crankshaft slowly by hand and wait for the spark plug to spark. That tells me when on the degree wheel. If you want to change it you turn the distributor body a small amount until the spark is happening exactly where you want it.
cool... never did it that way before. Thanks for showing!
+vw64manyrd Just be careful that your never the spark plug ground. Yahooo :-)
I never saw it done that way! Nice~!
Does any of the stuff you say about the fuel pump matter? This videos so confusing. I’m turning my crank and am getting no spark?
You need to watch more video's.
What about burning up the points just asking because I’ve always been told never leave the ignition on for more than a moment with out starting the engine
Who uses points nowdays.... Switch to electronic. I use Pertronix.
They don't carbon up, your timing stays the same and nobody makes replacement points like the old day's.
Ether way I have never had a problem doing a short term test and having it hurt my points.
Thanks ez im getting ready to change my super over to electronic and do away with my points now i know how to set my timing
I use a similar method, but a little bit different: instead of removing a spark plug i just remove the wire that goes from distributor cap to the ignition coil from the distributor, leaving the other end in the coil and check for a spark. Much easier and faster than removing a spark plug in my opinion.
If you would have watched the vid you would have seen I used a old plug and a spare wire. Just as EZ as your method IMHO
@@TheEZGZhey dont get me wrong i watched it, its just that not everyone might have an old spark plug laying around, i once got stranded because my electronic ignition got burnt because i used the wrong coil so i installed the plates and condenser back on the roadside and used this method to set the timing. Im not saying your method is bad or anything its actually really helpful.
Thanks EZGZ. I guess I can use this trick to do timing of electronic distributor. In your experience, how much static advance I should set for electronic vacuum distributor on 1300 DP Super Beetle?
10 degrees ought to be good if you always use premium fuel
Do u hav a video on how to go from point to pointless petronix.?
Nope! Just follow the directions.. Red goes to 15 and don't look back. Never had a failure in `25 years. No more wondering what your timing is and fiddling with point gap
TheEZGZ ok, will try to make the switch soon, during this covid time at home🙏🏻thanks EX
TheEZGZ meant EZ
I'm curious, I've been setting my timing this way for a while now. I'm trying to get my bug going again and made sure it is on tdc even taking off the valve cover to check the valves. The light now doesn't come on. Checked the light and it does work. What would cause this? Bad ground?
I'm using a spark plug! I do this because it is proving the whole ignition system is working properly.
If your using a test light or a timing light and having problems it could be poor connections. pitted points if your silly enough to be using points (new points are junk) weak coil. Don't overlook checking inside the dizzy cap and rotor. I always recommend a shop manual as most have trouble shooting sections to isolate components.
Thank you sir 👍
Could this method work on my passat B3 monoinjector Engine code ABS. It has ECU
I have never tried that but I don't see why not. Let me know how it goes.
what would be a close timing for a 1600 w Kadrons and 009 distributor, thanks in advance
If you use a 009 mechanical dizzy I like 10 or 12 static and running with timing light prefer 34 total.
Always run premium fuel.
TheEZGZ 10 to 12 ATDC or BTDC thanks again.
you are so smart Mr
Great video, great tip
Sparks don't lie and they occasionally get my attention.....
Ingenous! Thanks for the info!
Glad it was helpful!
hey youre genirator is installed wrong.the post should lean to the right if not it doesnt draw air in thru the back of it tothe front as its supose to,i learned that from my friend whos been fixing vws for 58 years
+joel coleman Thank you!!!! I just had the fan apart on the 1800 and was looking at that. I need to change this one on the 2110. Good eye my friend.
great video however it's good to remember that leaving the key on for long periods of time is really bad for the coil
Simple and cool method. But when I check with the timing light to see if it's in the same spot, my advance is way off by 10 degrees. Why ?
Edit: Oops I missed your commentary in the video about it. Static and light have different result OK
Interesting video
It's shocking......
Awesome a very good idea!
+MidwestMotoRider Thanks for your support
Thanks so much helpful
TheEZGZ Hi
What you thing using
Power pack coil and remove old ign sys and fix
BETA Electronic Ignition Coil Pack for Opel Astra
in typ1 vw engines
The price only 30 $ it comes 2 coil to control 4cy
stock coil and Pertronix
you just cant beat old skool.
+duggy788 slow but sure the EZ way
Me gustaría verlo en español
Thanks
Like it...thanks for sharing.
Thanks for your comment and support
Many Thank's
Your Welcome, I hope you get many smiles to the miles
hello sir. Should Ignition be retarded or advanced ?
i got a very old 82' car with electronic TDC sensor and distributor mechanism. I've noticed my exhaust burping when given gas at idling, and a slight performance degrade. Thank you for the video. I don't have a tdc pistol liked your method.
Advanced. It should say under the hood
@@TheEZGZ Hello. Does exhaust backfire mean that I have retarded timing? I have also set a high idle rpm around 1000. Wish you a beautiful day !
static timing has always been ez... only way to go on aircooled... makes for a quick buy of a thrashed deas vw too😁
Cool
Well now I have made a TOTAL mess of things!! The carbs are popping and the so is the muffler (and I mean AAALLLL the time).I did the static full advance check and found something startling. When I used this method to set the full advance to 28degrees BTDC, the timing at idle went to about 20degrees ATDC (Really retarded). So now I am all confused.I think I need to start ALL over from scratch. The car is totally undriveable.I also found that the carb would run fuel after the engine was turned off. And once the engine is running, sounding OK at idle and I press the gas the RPM goes through the roof and won't come back down.So since I found the carb leaking fuel I rechecked the float level BUT it is still racing like hell.Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Don't panic. Stay calm. Sounds to me like you crossed up your spark plug wire's. Make sure that you have those correct. Take off the distributor cap and have a look for cracks, Damage, corrosion, The little carbon tit in the middle goes up and down against the rotor.. I will try and post up a video to help later today or soon. Do you have any kind of a book that has the specs for tune up? If not get one. Let me know what you find.
Also my static timing is to be set with the engine off at aprox. 8 to 10 degrees not 28 you need to use a timing light to check for full advance.
yeah buddy!👍
+R HEIDEMAN Just trying to keep it real.
i did this even easier on my build. set the timing mark at 7 and line up the rotor with the #1 plug. it will start fine
It's not just about starting and then having to guess at it by ear. My way you see the spark and it's more precise and it's a done deal. IMHO
Makes sense
Makes your engine happy too.
Bruce Dern for sure.
;-0
Ezgz, check your emal.
+Bryan Boyle I will call you in the AM
Cool. Looking forward to it.
The easy way! Its EZGZ! Not HardGZ or DifficultGZ!!!
This is not easy, confusing when you say"then adjust your distributor.
Try it. You will like it.