There are scientists all around the world, with PhD’s and decades of experience…and tomorrow, they’ll go in the lab, to find out they were wrong the day before. Don’t take it so personal. As someone who’s spent a couple of decades working in front of hundreds, or even thousands in many instances, here’s my recommendation, when you get a comment like that.. 1. Ignore the language. People tend to use aggressive and insulting language, online. Focus on the message, not the words. 2. Look forward to it. Get excited to make videos like this. Either you’re going to find out you were wrong (in which, you just became a better educated mechanic), or you’ll find out you’re right (like today), in which your professionalism and mastery of your craft, will shine even brighter. Great educational video. 😊
Outstanding! Unfortunate that people would bash or make negative comments like that. The fact that you humbly just moved forward to check for yourself and know shows you have integrity. Thanks so much for doing this video because its a question I have asked myself many times and was intending to do this same check on my 70 340 Swinger. 419 with long valve W2 heads and Comp Cams mechanical cam. Appreciate the extra work brother!
Good job, I also use solid lifters with hydraulic cams because there's more to chose from and the engine runs way better with solids. With the poly locks, they hold the lash for along time. I like to keep it tight .008 - .012 cold, my research was that it increases 2 - 3 thousand with all iron engine when hot and 4 - 6 thousand with aluminum heads. I've never done a test so I just took their word for it and never had a problem. Thanks for doing this test, and I'm sure a lot of other people appreciate you efforts. All the best.
I just saw this video now, I must’ve missed it, I’ll be going down this rabbit hole with lash again when I get my motor back. I have a lot of experience with setting up turret lash on cranes, as well as direct drive gear threaders from the 1940s. I’ve done this my whole life but when it comes to valve lash, it’s interesting to me because heat perhaps is a variable. Applying skills I’ve learned my whole life to mopars is fun. Even if sometimes I screw something up. All part of learning.
@@maximuswedgie5149 That’s cool that you can apply other skills that you have to the mechanics of your engine. And you’re right, any mistake can be used as a learning experience.
Thanks for taking your time in clearing this up. Looking forward to seeing it run on the street and hopefully better ET at the strip. Keep up the great work. 👍
Excellent display of professionalism whether or not your experiment showed the results you expected. It’s unfortunate that some individuals must comment with ego and not facts.
Good job. I swear our high school auto shop teacher (1980) taught us that lash ‘decreases’ with engine heat. Made total sense to me, especially when you learn that cam specs call for MORE lash on the exhaust valves (hotter). Then a few years ago I asked this question on the forums and came away totally confused! lol
I always thought lash got smaller as the engine warmed up, I saw the same video as you, and went wtf? But you’ve just proved it for me, thanks, it saved me doing it!
I think a lot of the confusion comes from so many different combinations that can come into play. The best is if someone can do their own checks cold and hot like he did. That way you really know what it’s doing.
Great video! Definitely a super cool topic and not what you would expect. I would’ve thought with everything getting hot and expanding,the results would be opposite of what they were. I would say they are mind boggling results. Can’t wait to see how the new trans performs!!
I was going to guess that the exhaust would tighten due to heating of the valve stem. Intake would open up. I had a flat-head that would run good till it warmed up. The valve sunk and had no clearance. Then the valve grew in length and lost compression. Good video. Honda V6 will start to missfire with tight exhaust clearance. OHC engine.
Yes the lash grows when hot and is even more significant on aluminum heads versus cast iron. I always check and adjust if needed cold and never go back and recheck when hot and to be honest I am looking for early signs of a lifter failure, in most cases, when I do check the lash. That guy is the typical RUclips "content creator" that can't figure out why his car performs like total shit and will only listen to "live stream" cult followers for advice......best advice I can give anyone is follow and listen to those who have proven to be fast, or pretty fast, with limited issues and ignore all the other mouth breathers. Good video and look forward to seeing how your new setup works for you.
I thought I was right on this but that dude got in my head. Basically told me I was full of crap and spreading misinformation. I needed to know the truth, whether I was right or wrong.
So wait a minute..... So the head grew which effectively made the pushrods shorter right? Did the pushrods and valve stems not grow? Thats crazy man! Outstanding video sir!
Back in my high school and early college days back in the mid 70's I was taught the same thing, as the engine heats up gaps get closer, however in my 45 plus years in auto repair and hot rods I have found the opposite to be true, depending on the metals being used you might have to adjust the cold settings around .003-.005 tighter then hot. Just Mopar Joe did a video not that long ago about this topic.
Yes, I do remember seeing Joe’s vid on this. It is kinda opposite of what you would think. This video was more about clearing my conscience on this matter.
Yep,when i put a cam in whatever numbers the cam card says for hot lash i just set them cold at .004 less than that and when i check them hot they are always pretty much right on the money,with cast iron heads that is,i also have the exact same rockers and shafts that you do on your engine.
You can see the Battery bolt twirling.Maybe a look at Aluminum heat resistance and Steel is surely different. I would have to take for a drive too.oh and the 2-3 Gear shift will be as fun as 1-2 now
Yes, sir. I recently swapped out the stock pink accelerator pump cams for the orange cams. That helped out that transition to wide open throttle after I installed an open carb spacer.
THE DAY YOU THINK YOU KNOW IT ALL -IS THE DAY YOU STOP LEARNING that's for commenters like you know Great video your info always appreciated.Thanks
You got that right! Never stop learning.
There are scientists all around the world, with PhD’s and decades of experience…and tomorrow, they’ll go in the lab, to find out they were wrong the day before. Don’t take it so personal. As someone who’s spent a couple of decades working in front of hundreds, or even thousands in many instances, here’s my recommendation, when you get a comment like that..
1. Ignore the language. People tend to use aggressive and insulting language, online. Focus on the message, not the words.
2. Look forward to it. Get excited to make videos like this. Either you’re going to find out you were wrong (in which, you just became a better educated mechanic), or you’ll find out you’re right (like today), in which your professionalism and mastery of your craft, will shine even brighter.
Great educational video. 😊
Thanks buddy. That is a really insightful way of looking at it. I’m glad you shared your thoughts on this matter.
Outstanding! Unfortunate that people would bash or make negative comments like that. The fact that you humbly just moved forward to check for yourself and know shows you have integrity. Thanks so much for doing this video because its a question I have asked myself many times and was intending to do this same check on my 70 340 Swinger. 419 with long valve W2 heads and Comp Cams mechanical cam. Appreciate the extra work brother!
Thanks brother. I don’t let that kind of stuff bother me. I’m glad you found this little experiment useful.
Have a great weekend.
Good job, I also use solid lifters with hydraulic cams because there's more to chose from and the engine runs way better with solids. With the poly locks, they hold the lash for along time. I like to keep it tight .008 - .012 cold, my research was that it increases 2 - 3 thousand with all iron engine when hot and 4 - 6 thousand with aluminum heads. I've never done a test so I just took their word for it and never had a problem. Thanks for doing this test, and I'm sure a lot of other people appreciate you efforts. All the best.
Thanks buddy. I hope it enlighten someone out there.
Keep up the good work. It's easy for people to be nasty when they're behind a keyboard and not in front of you.
Right on brother!
Just the facts,man. I dont need the drama ......Thats why i like your channel.
Yeah, I didn’t what to go into the b.s. too much but I wanted to give a little background on why I was making this video.
My aluminum heads grow .006 Thanks for sharing . Keep up the great videos👍
Thank you for sharing your findings. I’m getting a lot of positive feedback on this…Take care.
I just saw this video now, I must’ve missed it, I’ll be going down this rabbit hole with lash again when I get my motor back. I have a lot of experience with setting up turret lash on cranes, as well as direct drive gear threaders from the 1940s. I’ve done this my whole life but when it comes to valve lash, it’s interesting to me because heat perhaps is a variable. Applying skills I’ve learned my whole life to mopars is fun. Even if sometimes I screw something up. All part of learning.
@@maximuswedgie5149 That’s cool that you can apply other skills that you have to the mechanics of your engine. And you’re right, any mistake can be used as a learning experience.
Thanks for taking your time in clearing this up. Looking forward to seeing it run on the street and hopefully better ET at the strip. Keep up the great work. 👍
Thanks buddy. Fingers crossed 🤞 she picks up a little ET.
Good video! Proof is right there!
Yes sir. I think you went over this same thing during your 512 build.
Excellent display of professionalism whether or not your experiment showed the results you expected. It’s unfortunate that some individuals must comment with ego and not facts.
Yea, you will have that. I just had to get to the bottom of this. Right or wrong, I had to know.
Good job. I swear our high school auto shop teacher (1980) taught us that lash ‘decreases’ with engine heat. Made total sense to me, especially when you learn that cam specs call for MORE lash on the exhaust valves (hotter). Then a few years ago I asked this question on the forums and came away totally confused! lol
It is about opposite of what you would think happens.
I always thought lash got smaller as the engine warmed up, I saw the same video as you, and went wtf?
But you’ve just proved it for me, thanks, it saved me doing it!
I know, it’s a head scratcher. But the measurements don’t lie. I’m glad you found it useful.
I think a lot of the confusion comes from so many different combinations that can come into play.
The best is if someone can do their own checks cold and hot like he did. That way you really know what it’s doing.
@@NBSV1exactly
Your good dude thanks for being considerate!
Great video! Definitely a super cool topic and not what you would expect. I would’ve thought with everything getting hot and expanding,the results would be opposite of what they were. I would say they are mind boggling results. Can’t wait to see how the new trans performs!!
Just another days work. Standin’ on business.
@@Duster_Garage standin on business !
I was going to guess that the exhaust would tighten due to heating of the valve stem. Intake would open up. I had a flat-head that would run good till it warmed up. The valve sunk and had no clearance. Then the valve grew in length and lost compression. Good video. Honda V6 will start to missfire with tight exhaust clearance. OHC engine.
I think a flathead would be one of those exceptions. They have a different cylinder head/valve train than a overhead valve Mopar, Ford or GM right?
Yes the lash grows when hot and is even more significant on aluminum heads versus cast iron. I always check and adjust if needed cold and never go back and recheck when hot and to be honest I am looking for early signs of a lifter failure, in most cases, when I do check the lash. That guy is the typical RUclips "content creator" that can't figure out why his car performs like total shit and will only listen to "live stream" cult followers for advice......best advice I can give anyone is follow and listen to those who have proven to be fast, or pretty fast, with limited issues and ignore all the other mouth breathers. Good video and look forward to seeing how your new setup works for you.
I thought I was right on this but that dude got in my head. Basically told me I was full of crap and spreading misinformation. I needed to know the truth, whether I was right or wrong.
@@Duster_Garage Understood
So unfortunate that happened to you. 👎🏼
Excellent brother. Great info & discussion thanks👍🏻💯
Thanks buddy. I thought it might be an interesting little experiment and topic to talk about.
So wait a minute..... So the head grew which effectively made the pushrods shorter right? Did the pushrods and valve stems not grow? Thats crazy man! Outstanding video sir!
I’m assuming all the valve train components do expand but just not to the extent the cylinder head does.
Your spot on keep up the good work and info
Thanks brother, will do!
Back in my high school and early college days back in the mid 70's I was taught the same thing, as the engine heats up gaps get closer, however in my 45 plus years in auto repair and hot rods I have found the opposite to be true, depending on the metals being used you might have to adjust the cold settings around .003-.005 tighter then hot. Just Mopar Joe did a video not that long ago about this topic.
Yes, I do remember seeing Joe’s vid on this. It is kinda opposite of what you would think. This video was more about clearing my conscience on this matter.
Stuff like that bothers me too, so your conscience is clear.@@Duster_Garage
I recall the Chevy camp using what they called a 30/30 cam .
0.030” lash on both sides
Yes they did, I heard you would pick up a little top end power if you tightened up the lash though.
20/20 you may see better ?
Yep,when i put a cam in whatever numbers the cam card says for hot lash i just set them cold at .004 less than that and when i check them hot they are always pretty much right on the money,with cast iron heads that is,i also have the exact same rockers and shafts that you do on your engine.
Nice, I like those rockers. I got them years ago and they were a good deal.
Your awesome bro and excellent content!
Thanks brother, I appreciate that!
Agree I have plenty of learning to do yet
Someone told me, once you think you know it all, that’s when you stop learning.
You can see the Battery bolt twirling.Maybe a look at Aluminum heat resistance and Steel is surely different. I would have to take for a drive too.oh and the 2-3 Gear shift will be as fun as 1-2 now
Lol, yeah didn’t have the terminal tightened down. I can’t wait to drive it.
Thats cool you can rebuild your own transmisions
Yes sir👍
bro how do you keep the engine clean? really impresive
@@HDUG7up Thanks. I don’t drive it much so it’s pretty easy to keep up with.
You still using FST carb how's it running for you.thanks don
Yes, sir. I recently swapped out the stock pink accelerator pump cams for the orange cams. That helped out that transition to wide open throttle after I installed an open carb spacer.
Do you use type F fluid with friction modifier. There is a certain roller rocker that guys swear by because of if that lash issue I forget the brand
Yes, I did put type-F fluid in my new trans. I heard it is a little grippier than dexron fluid.
What's part number on that carburator. Thanks
From summit racing, p/n is FUT-42750XB.
Price really went up since I got mine.
@@Duster_Garage I like it especially with no choke horn. That's all carb I need.