This video helped me a lot. My positive wire failed at the same soldered joint inside the bulk head. I ran new wires to the pump and level switch so there are zero soldered joints hidden in epoxy. Now that it's repaired my idle is very strong. I recommend everyone ohms test their pump at the 4 pin connector under the seat. It's the two middle pins should be about .4ohms. If it's 1 ohms or higher you definitely have issues. The ecm controls the pressure so even if the wire is failing the ecm can correct it to an extent. That's probably why the idle was weak because the ecm is fighting with the bad wire
This happened to me today, my bike just died on me and I noticed the pump wasn't priming when I turned off and on the ignition. This info is gonna help me out big time when I drag out my tools in the morning, thanks man really appreciate the help! Stay safe out there and keep her shiny side up H&R
Really nice video!!! for my trouble shooting of fuel pump relay failre of GPz 750 turbo. Thank you for recording. I guess slack or bent-radius inside the connector was wrong implemented; Due to continuous stress of the ground wire, the contact of the ground may have been taken away, based on the bent pin.
I wish this video would have been out prior to my 2014 EBR 1190Rx stopping on me at the Gas station a few months ago. I had the same problem. I called EBR technical assistance prior to finding this problem on my own Bike. I was told that a vendor which supplied the fuel pump assembly to EBR sent a batch of faulty pumps which had a grounding issue. One of the things EBR recommended was reheating the connector. I decided to purchase a used fuel pump assembly from a Buell 1125 and swapped my filter, pump and hoses along with the sending unit assembly to the 1125 pump housing. The older housing from the 1125 has the same wiring harness and works great, cost me $65.00 on ebay.
Can anyone educate me a little please. My bike turns on so I’m sure the fuel pump works but then it idles at low rpms and turns off I don’t think it needs gas as it pops up a code about a fuel pump
There is a diode inside the epoxied conector. You need to replace it too. Thats what is shorted on the harness. I can look up its reference in case the information is needed by anywone.
Thanks for the explanation. I am curious as to how durable the little SS float has proven to be. I purchased one to replace the foam float, but I wonder that as the SS float was intended for an aquarium (submersed in water) as opposed to a gas tank. Also I note that the SS float is made in China. I see where the work was completed going on over 3 years. How's the fuel light function these days?
I have a smilar problem with my bike fuel relay wont power on the pump but the blinker relay will leave it on regardless of the key beeing on the ignition
Nice trouble shooting and saving money, I have a husky dirtbike. That I'm trying to figure out what's wrong with it, going to check the relays and fuses first to see if that fixes it. Ride safe. 👍
Nice trouble shooting ! I myself am stuck right now with an Fuel pump issue and wish I could get out of this one myself. Unfortunately my testing so far allow me to find how to create/avoid the problem by disconnecting the fuel pump connector but I'm not sure on how to diagnose further. Feel free to say no but could I ask you for some guidance ? Thanks -Yannick
I have the same problem. My bike is bogging on acceleration. Feels like the bike isnt getting enough fuel to the system. The bike gets jerky and doesnt have the acceleration or power. For starters, I changed my air filter and my fuel filter. I'm sure now it's the fuel pump. I also dont hear any noise when turning the ignition on I tested the fuel pump with a pressure gauge to see if the pressure of the fuel pump isn't sufficient before buying an OEM 200$+ fuel pump. When I tested it the first time, the gauge read normal levels, which led me to believe it was the spark plugs but when the bike heats up, the gauge dropped and was sitting at nearly 0 kpa instead of 1.3kpa-2.6kpa. The bike runs very well on idle or even first gear but loses the power past 2nd gear. Best way to diagnose the problem is check these 3 things: air, fuel, and spark. If u know the problem is ur fuel pump, then test the pressure by connecting it to a pressure gauge. It should read the same kpa as stated in the manual even on neutral
No loss of power. They're the same Carter 61522 pumps between the 1125 and 1190. Fuel pump assemblies are actually very similar just completely different float styles but the pump itself is the same.
@@WeakestofWeeks the dealership is charging $1000 for the labor Is this a fair price in your opinion And what mods are needed to install an 1125 fuel pump, is it plug and play? Thank you very much for your help
That's a serious chunk of change for a fuel pump repair but it is a labor intensive job if you're not comfortable completing the fix yourself. An 1125 assembly in an 1190 is not a plug and play swap since the fuel floats are entirely different. Check out the 1190 owners group on Facebook and you may find a competent EBR enthusiast that can do the fix much cheaper.
A continuity tester would have made your life easier and this video way shorter. There are also testers with remote modulesso you don't have to worry about wires hanging here and there. They are under 30.00 for the remote tester
Went with the factory 1190 Carter fuel pump. Turned out the pump was fine and the harness was the issue. I attempted to used a Walbro pump but pushed way too much fuel.
This video helped me a lot. My positive wire failed at the same soldered joint inside the bulk head. I ran new wires to the pump and level switch so there are zero soldered joints hidden in epoxy.
Now that it's repaired my idle is very strong. I recommend everyone ohms test their pump at the 4 pin connector under the seat. It's the two middle pins should be about .4ohms. If it's 1 ohms or higher you definitely have issues. The ecm controls the pressure so even if the wire is failing the ecm can correct it to an extent. That's probably why the idle was weak because the ecm is fighting with the bad wire
Glad my video helped with your issue and that u got yours all sorted out!
Aagaard MF did a video on this and there is a diode inside that connection that protects the ECM.
This happened to me today, my bike just died on me and I noticed the pump wasn't priming when I turned off and on the ignition. This info is gonna help me out big time when I drag out my tools in the morning, thanks man really appreciate the help! Stay safe out there and keep her shiny side up H&R
Really nice video!!! for my trouble shooting of fuel pump relay failre of GPz 750 turbo. Thank you for recording. I guess slack or bent-radius inside the connector was wrong implemented; Due to continuous stress of the ground wire, the contact of the ground may have been taken away, based on the bent pin.
I wish this video would have been out prior to my 2014 EBR 1190Rx stopping on me at the Gas station a few months ago. I had the same problem. I called EBR technical assistance prior to finding this problem on my own Bike. I was told that a vendor which supplied the fuel pump assembly to EBR sent a batch of faulty pumps which had a grounding issue. One of the things EBR recommended was reheating the connector. I decided to purchase a used fuel pump assembly from a Buell 1125 and swapped my filter, pump and hoses along with the sending unit assembly to the 1125 pump housing. The older housing from the 1125 has the same wiring harness and works great, cost me $65.00 on ebay.
Awesome video i believe i have the same exact problem on my arctic cat atv
Can anyone educate me a little please. My bike turns on so I’m sure the fuel pump works but then it idles at low rpms and turns off I don’t think it needs gas as it pops up a code about a fuel pump
There is a diode inside the epoxied conector. You need to replace it too. Thats what is shorted on the harness. I can look up its reference in case the information is needed by anywone.
Yes, please post up specs on the diode. Thanks!
@@whodom Rectifier Diode 1000V 3A - 1N5408
Well done dude
Cut that plug apart where the encapsulating gel is and you'll prob find an electronic diode or resistor that has failed inside the plug
Thanks for the explanation. I am curious as to how durable the little SS float has proven to be. I purchased one to replace the foam float, but I wonder that as the SS float was intended for an aquarium (submersed in water) as opposed to a gas tank. Also I note that the SS float is made in China. I see where the work was completed going on over 3 years. How's the fuel light function these days?
It at least lasted 2yrs and then I sold the bike. After that I'm not entirely sure.
It sucks you had to take the entire ass off of your bike. Good video
I have a smilar problem with my bike fuel relay wont power on the pump but the blinker relay will leave it on regardless of the key beeing on the ignition
Nice trouble shooting and saving money, I have a husky dirtbike. That I'm trying to figure out what's wrong with it, going to check the relays and fuses first to see if that fixes it. Ride safe. 👍
Nice trouble shooting ! I myself am stuck right now with an Fuel pump issue and wish I could get out of this one myself. Unfortunately my testing so far allow me to find how to create/avoid the problem by disconnecting the fuel pump connector but I'm not sure on how to diagnose further.
Feel free to say no but could I ask you for some guidance ? Thanks
-Yannick
Sure! What have you tried so far and what are they symptoms of the bike?
I have the same problem. My bike is bogging on acceleration. Feels like the bike isnt getting enough fuel to the system. The bike gets jerky and doesnt have the acceleration or power. For starters, I changed my air filter and my fuel filter. I'm sure now it's the fuel pump. I also dont hear any noise when turning the ignition on
I tested the fuel pump with a pressure gauge to see if the pressure of the fuel pump isn't sufficient before buying an OEM 200$+ fuel pump. When I tested it the first time, the gauge read normal levels, which led me to believe it was the spark plugs but when the bike heats up, the gauge dropped and was sitting at nearly 0 kpa instead of 1.3kpa-2.6kpa.
The bike runs very well on idle or even first gear but loses the power past 2nd gear.
Best way to diagnose the problem is check these 3 things: air, fuel, and spark. If u know the problem is ur fuel pump, then test the pressure by connecting it to a pressure gauge. It should read the same kpa as stated in the manual even on neutral
Thx prof ;))
What aftermarket options are there?
Ive heard Walbro 342 pump but I can confirm it pushes too much fuel. Im running the same OEM Carter fuel pump as an 1125
@@WeakestofWeeks any loss of power?
No loss of power. They're the same Carter 61522 pumps between the 1125 and 1190. Fuel pump assemblies are actually very similar just completely different float styles but the pump itself is the same.
@@WeakestofWeeks the dealership is charging $1000 for the labor
Is this a fair price in your opinion
And what mods are needed to install an 1125 fuel pump, is it plug and play?
Thank you very much for your help
That's a serious chunk of change for a fuel pump repair but it is a labor intensive job if you're not comfortable completing the fix yourself. An 1125 assembly in an 1190 is not a plug and play swap since the fuel floats are entirely different. Check out the 1190 owners group on Facebook and you may find a competent EBR enthusiast that can do the fix much cheaper.
I have the same issue on mi buel xb1200 2009
Dude your back wheel is missing, don't ride it like that you'll get a flat bro.
🤔
A continuity tester would have made your life easier and this video way shorter. There are also testers with remote modulesso you don't have to worry about wires hanging here and there. They are under 30.00 for the remote tester
Crank won't start
What fuel pump did you use
Went with the factory 1190 Carter fuel pump. Turned out the pump was fine and the harness was the issue. I attempted to used a Walbro pump but pushed way too much fuel.
@@WeakestofWeeks what did the harness run
the real problem is that it's an american bike....
It's actually not enough bikes made to make a legit quality pass in manufacturing