Just a little tip for the drawer bottom's. I wouldn't glue those in place. I always just slide them in the groove and put two screws underneath, up into the back piece. That way if the bottom gets damaged or starts to sag over time...you can just cut a new one real quick and slide it in..instead of making an entire drawer again
With solid wood you need to accommodate for movement. Use good plywood and it won’t need replacing if it gets damaged somehow build another drawer. I made a six-foot long mechanics tool box in 2001. Just the bottom box. I welded a steel frame but the panels, drawers, and dividers are all Baltic birch constructed with (??) 4mm bottoms. Nothing has failed, not even the drawer dl
I enjoy the humility in the skill, he doesn’t pretend to be more that he is, shows his mistakes, for my son and I we are at the beginning of our desire to start woodshops as well, thank for the honesty
hey man. just wanted to say thank you. From the bottom of my heart. I have always wondered what I wanted to be when I grew up. I am 47 now....still working in Remodeling and just wondering. You helped me come to the realization that I want to craft wood furniture. I have slowly started looking into small designs and tools needed (that I don't already have for the small remodeling company I own/operate). I have been AROUND wood workers/ artists all this time....never saw it for what it is. Thank you man. God bless.
I think you are the only one on youtube that does the cut not vertical, the safe way to do it using a spacer, which is a huge game changer in the execution of this drawer, heck, you could make a video just on that.. so many ask how to do this without doing it vertical..
If you do many drawers with false fronts, I would suggest getting some longer truss head machine screws (usually 8-32 thread) for your drawer pull installation. It will save you the counterbores and provides a much cleaner look on the inside. Steve
I enjoyed watching you build these drawers. The drawer front lumber is a little pricey for my personal pocket book, but as long as they are paid for out of your pocket book, I'm for them. You need to take a poll as to how many viewers like the beard. Thank for the video.
You always have very detailed videos. It’s much appreciated. I like the quarter, quarter, quarter, but my preferred joinery is the box joint, which I feel is the strongest, next to the dovetail joint.
Hello fine sir. Thanks for the great video. Question , at 3:21 in video, you say it was at this time that I realized, and didn’t finish your sentence. So what was it that you realized? Only thing I can think of is that you cut your plywood on the wrong length?
thank you so much for sharing your time and wisdom. Love the third option. I am making my first drawer with dovetails...it may be some time before I have an actual drawer but I'll be using your method for some of the others
Hi Matt. Great information on the drawers I definitely like what you did for the rabbits and the inlays, the sliders, I struggle with that all the time but with your information it’s been a blessing. keep them coming. having a great time watching you especially you and your wife when you talk together. the interaction is awesome. I am a veteran and retired firefighter. Your videos inspire me to try new things. The woodworking helps keep me settled in spite of PTSD. And prayer helps too. Looking forward to new videos. have a great day
Man! I'm about a month away from the end of construction of my new shop. This workbench is looking better and better every week... I can't wait to try and make one for myself... as a Christmas present!? Keep up the amazing work!
Matt: I started using pocket holes many years ago, but learned something new this past week from a another RUclips maker. He demonstrated installing the pocket holes on the outside of a box (in this video, drawers) and the joint was substantially stronger because the screws bite into the wood farther away from the edge. I realize that on a box whose outside is exposed, the pocket holes would need to be covered. I have yet to try it this way. I thought you may be interested to know about it. God bless you. -Rick, USMC
I've seen this method before too. The holes can be hidden in the back of the drawer and covered by the faceplate on the front. You'll never see the holes unless you take the drawer all the way out to show someone how you did it. -Joe, USN (I had to through that in)
But at any rate, drawers don't need all that structural strength. Put the pocket holes wherever you like. If you don't like the thought of the holes, just throw a dowel and some glue in there and cut them with a flush cut trim saw. That's how I do it. -Blake, US Army
I loved the video Matt, I worked at a Cabinet shop for a while and learned how to do it the first way you did pretty much and it worked perfectly. We just made the 1/4" dados on the two sides of the drawer and then brad nailed it together with 16g nails and voila you got a pretty strong drawer for spoons and silverware for your kitchen great video once again man !!
Second method is the best , I'm using it 20+ years and never ever had any complaints from my clients.. if you put the wood glue on the joints it will be stronger then wood by itself , and it is the fastest way .. why complicate our life if all methods works but the second one is the fastest and easiest;)
I miss when Matt made these types of videos. Much respect to how his channel has grown and im sure he makes more money now off the tool selling videos...but man, he's one of my favorite woodworkers to watch build and have explain everything. He keeps it simple and gives little tips...really great teacher. Matt, if you read this...can you please do more project videos again? Much respect 731 woodworks, I mean no offense.
Great video, thank you 🙏🏼 I also need to fit drawer fronts and slides. I can’t get the Kreg slide jigs delivered for a week so I’m going to make my own. Thanks again 🙏🏼
It's so cool seeing you make all of this - I have HUGE respect for people who can do this, because I've just never had that skill. 5:47 "Everything should fit perfectly" is something I've never assumed about myself when making something! 😂 Great video, man!
How do you measure the drawers themselves? I have a heck of a time making the drawers the right size for the opening I have. I end up with (on a 4 drawer cabinet) four drawers all different sizes. I am definitely over thinking it, but every time I have to make drawers, I just dread it. It would be nice to see some video showing how to calculate drawer sizes and the gap between them and everything.
Watch your videos multiple times to learn, just one question you used the Kreg drawer guide to install the drawers why not use the Kreg guide for installing the pulls. I have used it since i found out it existed and it makes it so easy to correctly install the pulls.+
Another good video Sir. Dovetails aren't difficult, the jig (a good one) is a bit pricey though. The process doesn't take much more time either once you have your setup done. Note: Woodworker to Woodworker...Don't glue your bottom panels to drawers which are set inside the Dado's. Those should free float inside the grooves. Reason being, expansion and contraction of the panel. Because the panel is thin (1/4" +/-), it is going to expand with different temperatures quicker than thicker materials. As well, the panel itself should be slightly smaller in size than the dimensions of the groove's to allow for that expansion. Over time, if not allowed to expand and contract, it can pop out the sides of your drawer sides causing the drawer to become tight against the slides making the drawer difficult to open and close. Go into your kitchen and pull out a drawer (assuming you have standard kitchen cabinets). You'll notice that those drawer panels are "wiggly" / free floating. Also your cabinet doors themselves (assuming they are panel doors, not solid wood). Place your hand against the panel and move up and down. Might not be much, but you'll notice a bit of wiggle. Hope that makes sense 🙂. Keep the videos coming.
@@rorywynhoff1549 Wow, that's an old post. I worked at MANY cabinet companies over my woodworking career, various shops. None used glue for the panels. Another reason why NOT to use glue for the drawer panels is for the possibility of a collapsed drawer bottom. It happens. I've seen some where a customer accidentally left the plug out on a cooler they had placed on the counter. The ice melted and water drained into the drawers. Had we glued them, the entire drawer would have had to be replaced. But, because we didn't glue them, the back of the drawer was able to be popped off, drawer bottom slid out and a new one cut onsite and replaced. Took longer to get the tools out of the truck than to make the repair. Point is, you don't glue drawer bottoms.
Hey Matt. I like the 1/4 , 1/4 version when making a drawer. My question is the dimensioning length of the front and back pieces when fitting into the opening. Is there a quick and dirty way of figuring that dimension? You have to figure in the joint dimensions. I think Im just over complicationg this. Thank you. Just dicovered you on youtube and i really like your approach to wood working. Staring your router table/cabinet build tomorrow.
Another great video, but you never showed how to install the drawer glide into the cabinet.....Please can you do that? Other wise great great video. I just need to know how to put the glide in the cabinet. Thanks Jon. I'm doing my table saw with your cross cut sled!!!! Thanks again!!! Jon
Hey Matt, Happy New Year! I have a question: Why cut the back to sit on the drawer bottom instead of putting a dado in it and having the bottom in it like the rest of the drawer? Is it stronger that way, or is it just to anchor it?
I like all kinds. Listen to Christian mainly but also like hard rock/heavy metal too. Don’t listen to a lot of rap but if I do it’s NF, I like his music.
Just in case someone hasn’t said this already…. If you have several drawer fronts to mount: 1. Lay out the hardware holes on the bench, much easier 2. Make a jig from plywood that hooks over the top and side, make it symmetrical so you can use it left and right (if putting in two sets of hardware to left and right sides or like on cabinet doors). Put it in place and use the holes in the drawer front to make holes in the jig. Now you can drill every drawer front or cabinet door without measuring. 3. Shim the front like you did, playing cards make great shims (from Bourbon moth) 4. Using truss head screws fasten the drawer front using the hardware holes 5. Open the drawer and fasten the drawer front from the back. 6. Remove the truss head screws, drill through the drawer slide and install your hardware. Once you make the jig subsequent drawer fronts are installed in 1-2 minutes each. Much faster than laying out the hardware holes for each one individually. Kudos to Bourbon Moth + my high school shop teacher!
Good video, when you were using the calipers depth gauge it would probably be nice to have a shot of it near the saw blade for those unfamiliar with the calipers. Since you showed the digital readout and the main jaws before cutting to the depth measurement. Love the look of the ambrosia maple drawer faces.
You do not need dado for drawer base. You can use a small strip of wood that you set your plywood on top of. Nobody notices details on the inside of a drawer. And if the drawer is large install a centre support.
When putting on drawer pulls, I've always just drawn a line from corner to corner to find the center of the front, then divided the width of the screw holes in half. Then, use a small level or eyeball the level of the pull. Is there anything wrong with that?
Really helpful! Building a tack trunk for the barn and want to add some drawers (which is atypical), so had to do some research since no existing plans include them. I think I can manage it now! ❤
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
This is how you joint boards WITHOUT a jointer: ruclips.net/video/UFfj8qGVxZ0/видео.html
How do you prevent a braid nail from going through the wood/out? Because I know this happens a lot to me and it messes up my projects alot.
Check out FixThisBuildThat he has a video on that topic
@@731Woodworks ok thank you
Just a little tip for the drawer bottom's. I wouldn't glue those in place. I always just slide them in the groove and put two screws underneath, up into the back piece. That way if the bottom gets damaged or starts to sag over time...you can just cut a new one real quick and slide it in..instead of making an entire drawer again
That is a good point. I have RV drawers that are too short or long and not gluing bottoms is an easy way to change them over time.
With solid wood you need to accommodate for movement. Use good plywood and it won’t need replacing if it gets damaged somehow build another drawer.
I made a six-foot long mechanics tool box in 2001. Just the bottom box. I welded a steel frame but the panels, drawers, and dividers are all Baltic birch constructed with (??) 4mm bottoms.
Nothing has failed, not even the drawer dl
I enjoy the humility in the skill, he doesn’t pretend to be more that he is, shows his mistakes, for my son and I we are at the beginning of our desire to start woodshops as well, thank for the honesty
hey man. just wanted to say thank you. From the bottom of my heart. I have always wondered what I wanted to be when I grew up. I am 47 now....still working in Remodeling and just wondering. You helped me come to the realization that I want to craft wood furniture. I have slowly started looking into small designs and tools needed (that I don't already have for the small remodeling company I own/operate). I have been AROUND wood workers/ artists all this time....never saw it for what it is. Thank you man. God bless.
👊
Thanks!
Wow. Thank you!
Man I am really glad you are on here. Such a down to earth approach to the craft and you seem like a genuinely nice person.
I appreciate that!
Thank you for being an inspiration to us new woodworkers! You are a big reason why I started getting more into woodworking.
Thank you
I think you are the only one on youtube that does the cut not vertical, the safe way to do it using a spacer, which is a huge game changer in the execution of this drawer, heck, you could make a video just on that.. so many ask how to do this without doing it vertical..
Great tutorial for a newbie like me. A new found hobby. Thanks..
If you do many drawers with false fronts, I would suggest getting some longer truss head machine screws (usually 8-32 thread) for your drawer pull installation. It will save you the counterbores and provides a much cleaner look on the inside. Steve
Thank you
7:51 was a key step. Had ro rewind several times. Great video. Thanks..might need a tip for drawer slides or to just go get kreg clamps
I enjoyed watching you build these drawers. The drawer front lumber is a little pricey for my personal pocket book, but as long as they are paid for out of your pocket book, I'm for them.
You need to take a poll as to how many viewers like the beard. Thank for the video.
Absolutely a winner video. God bless
Awesome tip on the drawer pulls. That will be a huge time saver.
I’m going to use method two. I haven’t got a table saw so I’m going to have a go at cutting the slot for the drawer bottom with my track saw 👍🏽
Looking forward to having a workshop like that one day 🤝
Great video Matt! I’m about to build some nightstands so wanted to make sure I remembered how to build proper drawers.
High class shop with all that ambrosia maple! Can’t wait for the full build
Love you brooo massallah
Love the video, and personality. Thanks!
Matt, you do help keep me motivated to keep moving forward. Thanks!
Glad to hear it!
You always have very detailed videos. It’s much appreciated. I like the quarter, quarter, quarter, but my preferred joinery is the box joint, which I feel is the strongest, next to the dovetail joint.
Great project and and ideas on the drawer build and handle installation
I love that mixture of wood! The contrast looks great.
Thank you
You always seem to show what I need to see. Thanks -Vince
I would have never thought what side the drawer handle would have gone until you mentioned it , great tip ❤
Hello fine sir. Thanks for the great video. Question , at 3:21 in video, you say it was at this time that I realized, and didn’t finish your sentence. So what was it that you realized? Only thing I can think of is that you cut your plywood on the wrong length?
thank you so much for sharing your time and wisdom. Love the third option. I am making my first drawer with dovetails...it may be some time before I have an actual drawer but I'll be using your method for some of the others
really informative video. thanks!
Great work may you continue in God's favor and bless you and your family.
Enjoy the video. Thanks for showing three different ways to achieve similar in results. Also your beards coming along nicely.
Appreciate it!
Such a great skill wonderful video
Good work as always
Appreciate that
Hi Matt. Great information on the drawers I definitely like what you did for the rabbits and the inlays, the sliders, I struggle with that all the time but with your information it’s been a blessing. keep them coming. having a great time watching you especially you and your wife when you talk together. the interaction is awesome. I am a veteran and retired firefighter. Your videos inspire me to try new things. The woodworking helps keep me settled in spite of PTSD. And prayer helps too. Looking forward to new videos. have a great day
Kreg makes a jig for installing the drawer pulls, works extremely well and saves a TON of time and measuring!!
Huh....good video. I guess i usually(read...never) glue my drawer bottoms in. Praise the lord! 💪
Man! I'm about a month away from the end of construction of my new shop. This workbench is looking better and better every week... I can't wait to try and make one for myself... as a Christmas present!? Keep up the amazing work!
👊🏻
Matt: I started using pocket holes many years ago, but learned something new this past week from a another RUclips maker. He demonstrated installing the pocket holes on the outside of a box (in this video, drawers) and the joint was substantially stronger because the screws bite into the wood farther away from the edge. I realize that on a box whose outside is exposed, the pocket holes would need to be covered. I have yet to try it this way. I thought you may be interested to know about it. God bless you. -Rick, USMC
Thank you
I've seen this method before too. The holes can be hidden in the back of the drawer and covered by the faceplate on the front. You'll never see the holes unless you take the drawer all the way out to show someone how you did it. -Joe, USN (I had to through that in)
@@woodandwheelz thanks, bro. 😁 -Rick
But at any rate, drawers don't need all that structural strength. Put the pocket holes wherever you like. If you don't like the thought of the holes, just throw a dowel and some glue in there and cut them with a flush cut trim saw. That's how I do it.
-Blake, US Army
Good video! If your setup is right, you can do all your rabbets/dados without changing the setup, so it's actually pretty fast.
Brother, you are killing it!! More importantly, the sweet aroma of Christ is evident in all you do. Stay the course……
👊🏻
Amen. I concur.
Lol, sweet aroma 😅😅😅
Sweet aroma? Even Jesus thinks that's a bit creepy.
Great video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍
Super , thanks👍
Thank you too
I loved the video Matt, I worked at a Cabinet shop for a while and learned how to do it the first way you did pretty much and it worked perfectly. We just made the 1/4" dados on the two sides of the drawer and then brad nailed it together with 16g nails and voila you got a pretty strong drawer for spoons and silverware for your kitchen great video once again man !!
Good stuff as always. Appreciate the videos!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks a ton. This will help me with my project. Your video was really well made, too 🎉
You made the whole process look so easy. It came together very well. Looks great!
Thank you
Second method is the best , I'm using it 20+ years and never ever had any complaints from my clients.. if you put the wood glue on the joints it will be stronger then wood by itself , and it is the fastest way .. why complicate our life if all methods works but the second one is the fastest and easiest;)
Definitely liked the third drawer best, less likely to come apart.
Thank you! I really like the 1/4, 1/4, 1/4 technique and see many applications for that ratio in other projects.
Great job Matt...👍🏼
Thank you
Love that Ambrosia Maple!
Great video Matt. 👊🏻
Thank you 👊🏻
Awesome video!! Just what I was looking for
I miss when Matt made these types of videos. Much respect to how his channel has grown and im sure he makes more money now off the tool selling videos...but man, he's one of my favorite woodworkers to watch build and have explain everything. He keeps it simple and gives little tips...really great teacher. Matt, if you read this...can you please do more project videos again? Much respect 731 woodworks, I mean no offense.
I have more coming soon.
Well done, I learned a lot from you.
I just discovered your channel and I'm loving it so far. Fist bump👊
Thank you 👊🏻
I use a Stanley Center Read tape measure in cases like this, along with a template to locate the screw holes. Very fast and accurate,
Hey that thing is sure looking good Matt. Excellent choice of music too man!
Thank
Looking good brother!
Thank you
great video and tips - thanks!
Thank you
Great video, a lot of info and ideas in probably as condensed a time as possible... well done!
Great video, thank you 🙏🏼 I also need to fit drawer fronts and slides. I can’t get the Kreg slide jigs delivered for a week so I’m going to make my own. Thanks again 🙏🏼
It's so cool seeing you make all of this - I have HUGE respect for people who can do this, because I've just never had that skill. 5:47 "Everything should fit perfectly" is something I've never assumed about myself when making something! 😂 Great video, man!
lol thank you. Ahh you could do it too. Just takes practice.
Gotta believe man! That's the first step to success.
Did you know that Kreg makes a jig for locating knobs and handles? We use it at work and it's pretty slick.
Great video, no bull , thanks
Thanks for the post love your channel drawer are my biggest problem at the moment
Happy to help!
Nice video!! I would invest in a drawer pull jig though. Either buy one or build it
Hey Matt another great video. I use playing cards to get the space even for drawer faces. I learned that trick from another youtuber.
Great tip!
Love your videos! So informative and easy to follow.
Thanks so much!
Some helpful tips, think I’ll go with the shop draw for my garage cabinet I’m making. Ps, great workshop.
How do you measure the drawers themselves? I have a heck of a time making the drawers the right size for the opening I have. I end up with (on a 4 drawer cabinet) four drawers all different sizes. I am definitely over thinking it, but every time I have to make drawers, I just dread it. It would be nice to see some video showing how to calculate drawer sizes and the gap between them and everything.
Watch your videos multiple times to learn, just one question you used the Kreg drawer guide to install the drawers why not use the Kreg guide for installing the pulls. I have used it since i found out it existed and it makes it so easy to correctly install the pulls.+
Awesome video. studying to make some drawers myself and I like the different options you showed.
Been watching your videos for a while and I love to see how you video quality keeps improving and growing you are doing great man keep it up
Thank you
Great video! Love the work bench!
Thank you
I watch this guy because I see his faith in everything he does. Very rare
I have literally bought drawer slide this week for my shop drawers and I was waiting for this video. Your a hero! It’s uncanny the timing 😀
👊🏻
Another good video Sir.
Dovetails aren't difficult, the jig (a good one) is a bit pricey though. The process doesn't take much more time either once you have your setup done.
Note: Woodworker to Woodworker...Don't glue your bottom panels to drawers which are set inside the Dado's. Those should free float inside the grooves. Reason being, expansion and contraction of the panel. Because the panel is thin (1/4" +/-), it is going to expand with different temperatures quicker than thicker materials. As well, the panel itself should be slightly smaller in size than the dimensions of the groove's to allow for that expansion.
Over time, if not allowed to expand and contract, it can pop out the sides of your drawer sides causing the drawer to become tight against the slides making the drawer difficult to open and close.
Go into your kitchen and pull out a drawer (assuming you have standard kitchen cabinets). You'll notice that those drawer panels are "wiggly" / free floating. Also your cabinet doors themselves (assuming they are panel doors, not solid wood). Place your hand against the panel and move up and down. Might not be much, but you'll notice a bit of wiggle.
Hope that makes sense 🙂.
Keep the videos coming.
Expansion of the panel is only a concern with solid wood, not manufactured panels. The glue greatly increases the drawer strength.
@@rorywynhoff1549 Wow, that's an old post.
I worked at MANY cabinet companies over my woodworking career, various shops. None used glue for the panels. Another reason why NOT to use glue for the drawer panels is for the possibility of a collapsed drawer bottom. It happens. I've seen some where a customer accidentally left the plug out on a cooler they had placed on the counter. The ice melted and water drained into the drawers. Had we glued them, the entire drawer would have had to be replaced. But, because we didn't glue them, the back of the drawer was able to be popped off, drawer bottom slid out and a new one cut onsite and replaced. Took longer to get the tools out of the truck than to make the repair.
Point is, you don't glue drawer bottoms.
Hey Matt. I like the 1/4 , 1/4 version when making a drawer. My question is the dimensioning length of the front and back pieces when fitting into the opening. Is there a quick and dirty way of figuring that dimension? You have to figure in the joint dimensions. I think Im just over complicationg this. Thank you. Just dicovered you on youtube and i really like your approach to wood working. Staring your router table/cabinet build tomorrow.
Another great video, but you never showed how to install the drawer glide into the cabinet.....Please can you do that? Other wise great great video. I just need to know how to put the glide in the cabinet. Thanks Jon. I'm doing my table saw with your cross cut sled!!!! Thanks again!!! Jon
Like how you do drawers best
Thank you for video 💪
yo that 5 tape handle method was MATH that was NUTS
Great video, try the Kreg handle hardware jig, much faster. Really enjoy your videos and ideas.
Do you use an FTG blade to cut the rabbets? Or a standard ATB, and then chisel out the excess? I can’t find FTG blades at my local box stores
Ty.good job.
I was supprized that you cant do dovetails.....your stuff is beautiful lol
Thank you
I think I would like to try using dowl joinery. Or even box joints. And I would like to invest in a castle pocket hole maker for cleaner pocket holes.
Good video Matt. I think you need more drawers in that table :)
lol
Hey Matt, Happy New Year! I have a question: Why cut the back to sit on the drawer bottom instead of putting a dado in it and having the bottom in it like the rest of the drawer? Is it stronger that way, or is it just to anchor it?
Hey Matt, this is a bit of a random question, but what kind of music do you like to listen to?
I like all kinds. Listen to Christian mainly but also like hard rock/heavy metal too. Don’t listen to a lot of rap but if I do it’s NF, I like his music.
From Cabot Arkansas!! Nice video brother.
Hey man to make your life even easier there is a template you can buy at home depot for installation of handles on upper cabinets and drawers
Thank you
I may have missed it, but what kind of plywood are you using in this video. Awesome video too !! Thanks !
3/4 baltic birch
is there a reason for using a dado stack on the table saw as opposed to using a router on router table?
Just in case someone hasn’t said this already…. If you have several drawer fronts to mount:
1. Lay out the hardware holes on the bench, much easier
2. Make a jig from plywood that hooks over the top and side, make it symmetrical so you can use it left and right (if putting in two sets of hardware to left and right sides or like on cabinet doors). Put it in place and use the holes in the drawer front to make holes in the jig. Now you can drill every drawer front or cabinet door without measuring.
3. Shim the front like you did, playing cards make great shims (from Bourbon moth)
4. Using truss head screws fasten the drawer front using the hardware holes
5. Open the drawer and fasten the drawer front from the back.
6. Remove the truss head screws, drill through the drawer slide and install your hardware.
Once you make the jig subsequent drawer fronts are installed in 1-2 minutes each. Much faster than laying out the hardware holes for each one individually. Kudos to Bourbon Moth + my high school shop teacher!
Good video, when you were using the calipers depth gauge it would probably be nice to have a shot of it near the saw blade for those unfamiliar with the calipers. Since you showed the digital readout and the main jaws before cutting to the depth measurement. Love the look of the ambrosia maple drawer faces.
Good tip
You do not need dado for drawer base. You can use a small strip of wood that you set your plywood on top of. Nobody notices details on the inside of a drawer. And if the drawer is large install a centre support.
When putting on drawer pulls, I've always just drawn a line from corner to corner to find the center of the front, then divided the width of the screw holes in half. Then, use a small level or eyeball the level of the pull. Is there anything wrong with that?
Really helpful! Building a tack trunk for the barn and want to add some drawers (which is atypical), so had to do some research since no existing plans include them. I think I can manage it now! ❤
Do you do under mount slides is there video out on that