How To Add R410a Refrigerant to a Mini Split that Has a Low Charge
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
- The steps to add R410a refrigerant into a mini split that has lost its charge.
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Nice video. Consider purging your hoses. After opening 410 bottle, crack hose at gauges, and open side your charging wirh and crack that hose as well, to eliminate getting air into system. Sometimes I still forget and maby not a big deal but is best practice
That's correct you don't want outside air getting in there. But just a little bit of air will raise your microns very high and that moisture that's in the air is going to move around in that system day after day year after year and it's going to end up hurting the compressor the valves and oxidation in the entire inside of the system. That system won't last very long. The best thing to do is get those microns down as far as it can go past 500 and then Purge the refrigerant lines a little bit with refrigerant once you have a tiny bit coming out you're good and you can hook it up air in the system.
QUESTION, do you do the test with the ac running or power off until you get connected? #2. Do you do everything the same when it's winter and the heater fan inside stops but fan is running on air , fan only and dehumidifier, only stops on hear, sometimes it will run a short time on heat, like a minute before it stops??? Thank
This video saved my bacon.
We had a mini-split multi-head unit installed less than four years ago, and the unit just started to throw error messages. The error message was the refrigerant was low. The machine would not turn on.
I figured out the override switch and ran the compressor, then hooked up my gauges as you show, and put my bottle on my scale. I added about 100g at a time, let it run for 5 min, and checked the temperature of the three indoor head units.
The unit is under the max tube length, of 50m, so I know it was supposed to have 2.4kg or 2400g of R410a in it. I added 100g at a time. When I got up to about 300g the head unit nearest the compressor started to blow some cool air, and the temp inside the head unit went from 32°C to 27°C.
I was on the right track.
I kept adding 100g at a time until I had all three head units inside temps at 19°C which is what my other aircon's inside head units were at when set at max cooling of 22°C.
In total, I added about 900g of R410a refrigerant.
I know there is a leak somewhere, and I'll have to fix it, but I'm really busy with work right now, and would just like to get through the summer. Off-season I'll pick up a better deal on a used recovery machine and bottle then ill fix it correctly. I have two other aircons that I have to do this with, so getting a recovery machine and bottle is undoubtedly going to happen.
This video really helped me out, if even just a short-term fix.
Thanks from Tokyo
What error code did you have? Mine is error code EC. Thanks.
Did you get it fixed?
Im the old school fix it rather than the throw it away mentality. I appreciate your to the point, no stupid music or unnecessary commentary approach.
Thank you for accurate information
You’re far few between these days.
Great comment and I agree: no overly loud and stupid music playing in the background making it impossible to hear what the person is saying. And no jokes, making goofy faces, or other unprofessional and immature antics.
Peepee scholl key key school hvac scholl go not go rrparing
YES! Some Drag their feet!
Teach me lol I’m going to do it myself
Thank you for this video. I have been searching for a long time for a simple solution and this is it!
This is a good video. Got my ac down 6-7 degrees to 43.3 F :) Like others say, purge hoses, when opening, closing. Just imagine there is dirty air in your lines, to gauges, to tank, to mini-split port. Positive pressure on mini-split, positive pressure on tank. However you need to open the lines to get the freon completely in the lines from one to the other and through the gauge. With a decent gauge set, this is a piece of cake. THANKS. Also, if anyone else reads this.. His statement "Wait 5 minutes" ..is very important. If you have a laser temp gun, reading spots inside near the fan blade, you will notice it goes slowly down. I'd even go as far as to say.. do 1 Pump.. then measure after 3, 4, 5 minutes. How low is it? (I measured my other unit on other bedroom, it was 44.3.) It took 5 minutes, but got down and lower than my other unit. Now I'm wondering how low I can go on top of this. I know my first unit was done perfect. So 44.3 was my reference. With this second unit I had rushed, and made a mistake, I ended up doing what this poster said. I vacuumed the system, used a postal scale, and upside down, put in 2.x pounds. It worked good but I noticed my other unit was just a little more Icy. This video is great, Worst case, drain, evac, fill, measure.. add a little more. can't take too long. I did this in 25 minutes.
What do you mean by when opening, closing??
@@JohnDoe-qz1ql ... opening the high or low pressure valves on the gauges. When I say purge, I mean purge out the non freon "air". You never want outside air in the lines, so say I put a can of car freon on the yellow (in to gauges line) to the main gauge. I would open the valve, freon goes up the yellow line to the gauge, I would unscrew the yellow line at the gauge. If I were (on auto charge), to purge the whole line, I would put on a can to yellow line, open the low pressure blue side valve, then where the press on low pressure to the cars port is, I would unscrew the blue hose at the port side so freon came out. (again at this point opening the port on the can) This way there is no air in the lines. Then I would pop on the blue charge line to the cars low port. same for mini splits. Now remember, If on your car you had freon in it, that will be pushing out. So you have New freon on the gauge side pushing in, and you have your car pushing out. Putting on the charge I like to have it spray out either end a little (car side or gauge side) so there isn't even any outside air entering while I'm putting the freon on.. / in.. to the car. Same as mini split.
thank you so much brother - off to home depot and get that pressure gage with the hoses
Thank you very much for sharing. I have watched many RUclips videos and for R410A the tank has to be inverted. I am hoping to do a gas top up on my own.
This is a very good video. I just got an old split AC. Please my question is I added refrigerant to my 1hp Samsung spit AC when the power was turned off, filled it and I waited 10 hours to put the power on. Is it okay? Because Its cooling now
9:50 You don't need to be rushing here, nor do you need to let refrigerant out of the hoses into the atmosphere; you can empty the gauge set and hoses into the system. Of course that will increase the amount in the system by a little more, so you have to bear that in mind when estimating how much to add. Do this by closing off the liquid line valve (under the nut to the side of the valve connector) with a 4mm Allen key while it's running. The compressor will then suck the refrigerant into the system. And if you use a screw in valve depresser, you can release the Schrader valve once the line set is empty so you can undo the connectors with no pressure. Then open the valve again and the flow will return to normal.
Agree, that is how i learned it too.
Thanks. Do you unscrew the schrader valve depressor while it is running, or shut it off first. If still running it may suck in a little atmosphere, no?
Will this hurt the system at all? (Newb here)
Instead of releasing the freon, you can close the tank first. Then let the hvac system suck in the remnants from the charge hose.
29:12
@@mariavelez788 There is no 29:12 on this video! It ends at 11:08
Cool I’m about to do this for the first time on my own lol
Unfortunately, I had to install my heat pump in December and it’s cool outside. Does the temperature, of the unit effect the quality of the job? Is it better that it is cold?
I wonder how long that unit will last with all of the air that was forced into the system?
Great cheat sheet and to the point. Nice option if you don't have the patience to go through all the technical moves for exact dead on charge. You mentioned if you overcharge, it will quit operating. If you release some of the charge, will it begin to work again?
eBay no longer sells refrigerants…. Basically for that reason… but I just bought a 25 lbs jug of 404 and a 25 lbs jug of 410 for less than $600 for the pair with free shipping ..! Hell of a lot better than eBay ever could….!
Do you have this card? If not I need to get this deal
Can u show how to add ref. Oil and r 410A to the system. In case you run longer lines
Helpful stuff gabacho.
Hello from Mexico 🇲🇽
The weight the condenser says to charge it with, does that take into consideration the lines and air handlers?
I’m about to do this for the first time and I’m. It a pro lol wish me luck I’m going to follow you. I think the system is completely empty because it’s knocking when I turn it on . I have 2.60 lbs and have a 2lb bottle so do I just fill it all in and follow your video and follow the comment that says bleed the hose etc
If it is empty, it is best to first fix the leak, vacuum it down, then get an HVAC scale and add in the correct amount by weight.
thanks for the video, how about the case of topping off a multizone mini split? let’s say if there were 3 zones and 3 ports instead of just one, would you let some refrigerant into each one? or is filling one of them good enough? (i imagine they connect inside the compressor)
Why does one side of a hose have a kink in the other side dozen? Should all the kinks be facing the same direction like all of them go to the unit?
Did you add refrigerant with the ac on and in cooling mode? Sorry if thats a dumb question.
As I understand it (but I'm no expert) it has to be added with the mini split in cooling mode for the pressure at the port to be low enough to allow the refrigerant to flow into the system. In heating mode the pressure at the port is high (sometimes very high).
You forgot to purge your hoses and just added non condensables into your system which is not good. You should always crack open the yellow hose on your gauges with your refrigerant tank open until refrigerant fogs out and then crack open the blue hose at the gauges so it pushes any air out of the hose.
Good video, brother you kept it simple
I want to start from scratch after I discovered a slow leak and made the repair (bad flare on the low line). Pretty sure I lost all the r410a because it doesn't cool. Do I just vacuum it down then add the required amount of refrigerant? How would I know if there's still refrigerant in the system? Thanks
If the unit was not pumped down, and the line set was open, then there is no refrigerant left in the system. Once the leak is fixed, it needs to be vacuumed down and then the correct refrigerant added in by weight.
@@HVAC_Mechanic got it, thanks much! Edit: it works now!
Great video ! Explained very well . Thanks for sharing this.
Don't forget to purge out the air trapped in the blue hose at the gauge before charging. Air is a "Non-condensable" gas and shouldn't be allowed into the system.
To do that, would I connect the red line to a vacuum pump, open the red gauge for perhaps 5 minutes then close it? Also, I have a single stage, is that good enough?
@@jawharris
Hello Jeff
No need to use the red hose, as you are just recharging Freon using the blue and yellow hoses. Attach the blue hose to the low side of the mini split (the large tube when in “cooling mode”) then briefly loosen the othe side of the blue hose where it connects up to the pressure gauge manifold. Once you see Freon escaping then all air has been swept out. Same for the yellow hose. Cheers
@@kenbales7062 So hook everything up, open the 410A bottle, then crack open the yellow hose and the gauge until freon comes out, then crack open the blue hose at the gauge until freon comes out? Is it obvious when freon starts to come out? Thanks.
@@shanefrank3281 Hello Shane
Yes, open the Freon canister, then barely crack open the yellow tube at the gauge manifold and the liquid/gas will be cold as it comes out. Repeat same for blue hose once the suction ( large pipe) side valve of mini split is open, so all air is purged out. If the heat pump has no Freon at all and all is at full vacuum, then it is OK to start charging.
@@kenbales7062Will only work on R22 but if you do that on new refrigerant using POE and PVE oil you're adding moisture to the system. When the hose and manifold gauge is disconnected it will absorb moisture from air because it's wet with the compressor oil. Always use a vacuum pump and connect it to the high side.
Thank you. Perfectly explained 👌
Quick Question (i hope) .. I've vacuumed down and am ready to go, but wondering about order of operations. When do I open the valve stems? I assume since the system is running on cool (based on comments answer) the valve stems were opened after vaccuming out the system. So a) hookup tank and service ports to yellow/blue as shown b) open valve stems to let what refrigerant I do have into the system c) turn the mini-split on in cool mode d) open tank via yellow and flip e) open blue "on and off" as shown to get to right pressure or, should I hookup after opening valve stems? Seems like since I've got yellow / blue connected to test my vaccum, i can just move the yellow from the vacuum pump over to the tank, open the valve stems and follow video from there
If the system is in a vacuum the refrigerant will need to be added in by weight
Does the mini split need to be running when you let the refrigerant inn? How does the refrigerant suck into to unit when off? On a car the compressor needs to be on when adding
R410 near azeotropic which is not a single entity refrigerant molecule, it is consist of 3 blended reftigerant, when leak the lightest refrigerant will released to atmosphere first then resulting unbalance composition, will you still added on top of existing?
No, it's a 2 blend refrigerant, and they will both leak equally, that's why you CAN top off.
Does the mini split need to running when adding the refrigerant?
Bleed your line. And no superheat or sub cool? Just winging it?
Unless you recover the charge and weigh it in, yes you gotta pretty much wing it. Superheat and sub cooling are kinda meaningless on something that has a variable speed compressor. Best way to charge a TXV is with sub cooling which is very difficult to measure on these things. They usually don’t tell you what sub cooling they expect. To rely on this, you’d have to know the thing is running at or near 100% capacity. The few times I’ve done this I just shoot for about 15 degrees of superheat on the suction line coming back. It’s not rocket science. Just add a little bit at a time. It need not be exact.
Can a ductless mini split （ indoor unit) be installed on the second floor ( outdoor unit on the first floor)? Thanks!
Of course, just make sure you have adequate line set length
After recovering All refrigerant,do we need to vacuum it down the outdoor unit or just the line set? Please help me I’m a rookie
The outdoor condensing unit is sealed at the factory, but once in use, it has been opened and would need to be set in a vacuum. Basically, if it is direct from the factory, it is not vacuumed down, but if it has been in use and the unit has lost its refrigerant, then yes, it will need to be in a vacuum along with the line set.
Thank so much Sir , as a beginner so I just installed a 3 Ton mini split unit, I do all the procedure , I vacuumed it down to 320 over 10 mins . When I release the refrigerant I heard the water sound through the line set, so I’m worried about the refrigerant leaking. I saw a tiny drop of water under the flare nut. Is this refrigerant leak? If I were to vacuum the condenser unit do you have any tip for me?
@@joelin5877 Check all the connections with soap and see if there are any bubbles that will show if there is a leak. If there is a leak, you can pump the refrigerant back into the outside condenser like it was when shipped to fix it.
Thank you bro awesome quick video
I believe you can do it by using ammeter, measure the current according to data rating ampere.
So if i add gas the unit must be running or off same as when I check refrigerant?
I presume that the factory charge of R410A, 2.09 pounds, applies to a particular line set length. For example, a shorter or longer line set length requires a different weight charge....am I correct regarding that statement? How does one determine the proper weight of refrigerant when an overly long line set, for example when three feet is trimmed off of a factory line set?
Your video is very good . Thank you so much
11:00
How cold should the air be coming of unit. Measuring with infrared gun??? At lowest setting, 61°
So what is your "guess" of how much you put in by opening that quickly? 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1 lb? Also...are the gauges not useless with an inverter/variable compressor in using them as a guideline?
Did this work Adding Freon.
Thx, Trying not to use my oil heat much. Cost too much. Got a leak in Mini I guess. Checked flares. Hoping its just the shrader valve which I replaced because I found the old one was loose and found I only had 60psi left. Gonna charge with 410a leak stop/dye refrigerant (32oz can). My question is being it's 30-40 degrees outside, do you still use 120psi as the goal to reach. Some other videos stated 300psi, but it was out in the cold weather.
I'm also going to do an evac on the line set. I closed both ports on the outside unit when I replaced the shrader valve and didn't have any refrigerant leaking out of line set, so I figure I should do an evac on the line set. I'd imagine I got some air in the outside unit now, but I don't know, just guessing seeking advice.
Mini split units have variable speed compressors, so using a temp chart doesn't work. Either the refrigerant is recovered and then added back in by weight or add in small amounts until the unit starts to work again. If it's overfilled, it won't work, so go slow.
@@HVAC_Mechanic Thx. I appreciate the response. Is a Evac on the line set recommended being that after I close both high and low ports to condenser and then slightly removing shrader valve on low port to see if I had any refrigerant in the line set had showed me know sign of refrigerant leaking out of the line set?
might be a silly question, but , can I do this job with a regular lb scale? For instance, the scale I used to weigh myself?
While technically it may work, HVAC scales are very precise down to the ounce. I wouldn't use a standard scale as it may or may not come out correct. There are some low-cost HVAC scales online.
@ thought you for the reply and your time.
Usually they give you the amount of refrigerant required in ounces. Don't forget to add extra refrigerant for longer than normal refrigerant lines. You will find that data as to how much to add per extra foot or meter in the installation manual or on the outdoor name and data plate. Remember that there is an accumulator in the outdoor unit that holds extra refrigerant in it for heating months. If you do not follow the proper procedure, by the weigh out and weigh back in method, you might have enough refrigerant for AC mode but not near enough for heating mode. If you put in too much refrigerant in the system, and then cause liquid refrigerant to run into the compressor causing catastrophic failure.
When your checking the pressure is the unit on or off?
Also if I have multiple heads on one condenser, regardless of what port I connect too will the pressure reading be for the entire system?
Pressure reading can't be done very well with a mini split. The only thing that can be done if it is low on refrigerant, is with the unit on, add in small amounts of refrigerant slowly until it starts to cool again. Add refrigerant in small amounts as to not overfill it which will cause it to not work also. This is not the official way which is to vacuum it down and add in refrigerant by weight.
Does your adapter not have a schrader on male side? I hook my adapter on first as it holds pressure, and then attach hose. When finished, I’m able to take hose off of adapter, remove adapter with little loss of refrigerant
Trying to figure out how to assess refrigerant levels in mini splits so this was once again helpful.
Any idea what a PSI should be when running heat with 50 degrees weather outside? r410
Unfortunately, trying to use pressure-temp-chart is not reliable with a mini split variable speed compressor. This is why I add in small amounts slowly until it starts working. The official method is to start empty and add in by weight.
Just saw a previous video where the guy used red pipe. And his coolant tripped. Was that the reason ?
Delta t on a mine is around 20 to 25 mine splits have variable speed compressors variable speed fans and electronic expansion valve on the condensing unit unlike conventional systems have the metering device in the evaporator that is why the only true way to get the credit charges is to weigh it in
Does it automatically show the pressure level when connecting the line before you even open up the valve on the gauge or do you have to open the blue valve to get the proper pressure reading first
Show automatically the pressure
Can you recommend an EBAY seller for 410A?
EBay recently banned R410a sales on their platform. There are several websites that sell R410a with no need for an EPA 608 card. The websites sell it as long as the buyer state that the R410a is for resale. I haven't bought any from any of the many websites yet, but I likely will soon as I run low on R410a and the local supplier is too expensive in my area. If you buy from one of the many websites, let us know how it goes.
@@HVAC_Mechanic Ok but was hoping you would let me know how it goes, lol
With the system running or no? And the valves open or no ?
Really nice video! I'm a beginner and have two more questions. When the refrigerant comes out of the bottle in liquid form, does it evaporate immediately and then go into the suction line in gaseous form? I think so! And what would happen if the Mini Split is in heating mode, instead cooling mode? Is charging possible? If yes, do I still use the suction line for charging? Does the suction line become a liquid line and is getting warm?
in heating mode you would have to heat up the refrigerant bottle to a higher pressure (300+) than the line. That's why charging is done in cooling mode.
All mini splits the low (vapor gauge ) side is between 117 to 120 ?
If u suspect air or moisture in your lines from not properly being vacuumed how do u correct that does the R-410 have to be completely changed or what do u do ? Like how do u empty it and start over ?
Yes, evacuation, proper vac and recharge with virgin 410
@@marconantel7735 If I want to buy a system to recapture the R410a, what is it called, and what do I do with the R410a afterwards?
I looked it up, but the link where to bring it is not working. www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/documents/ConstrAndDemo_EquipDisposal.pdf
@@jawharris reclaim machine; most hvac supply houses will take it back and an send it back to be recycled
With R-410A it's a blend of refrigerants so you're supposed to open the bottle upside down to get liquid refrigerant for a proper mix.
He charge without scale,what you talking about)
@@gwizz911 please learn before ,r410 never charge gas,liquid only
If it’s missing gas, should we check if there a leak first ?
Do we have to add any for the Line set
is the unit running when you check the pressure and and refrigerant?
Yes, with it set to COOL (ac) and the thermostat set for 62°.
My mini split is not heating up. Is it low in refrigerants?
Very useful, thanks a lot!
Does the AC needs to be on to charge it?
Yes.
If my gauge says empty ( 30 psi) is there still refrigerant in the split unit? I ordered a recharge kit that has a little more than the unit needs so I am thinking I don't need to recover anything if it says empty. Id Just vacuum it out again. The recharge kit has Leak stop and UV dye in it.
I just installed a new split unit , but I didn’t do my connection right, and my freon escape,
Can I refill it?
if you are in a pinch you could use half the amount of propane, but fix that leak and Don't blow yourself up.
@@thedavesofourlives1 Propane?
Hey, you didn't burp your lines, they have some air in them when you hook them up
Question, Assuming a new system comes pre-charged for 25' of lineset and you need to add 25' is there a calculation to figure how much more refrigerant you would need?
The instructions will tell you how much to add per ft of line
yes the instruction manual will tell you exactly how much more to add. then you buy the refrigerant and scale and carefully add in that extra amount needed. It's always best to keep the lineset to 25' so you don't have to buy extra lineset and refrigerant. there are brackets to mount the outdoor units on walls that can help
Would low charge cause it to spit droplets 💦 when on... drain is clear no blockage
I also purchased 410A refrigerant from ebay, they let me buy it saying it will be used by a certified HVAC tech. Of course.
If the system is empty, do you recommend putting on a vacuum first?
If the system is empty, first, fix the leak, place it in a vacuum, then add refrigerant in by weight with an HVAC scale.
With multi unit condensers, do you use one service line to refill or do you have to do it for each suction line
As long as they all use the same condensing unit, no need to add to each head.
Do you do this with the system running or off? Thanks
Running on cool
@@blizzytaj One other question....sorry. I have a dual zone, so should I have both indoor units running on 'cool' to do this top off of 410A? Thanks again.
@@ssacra22 that's correct, you want to see what the pressure is when the entire system is running so you get the charge level correct
@@blizzytaj You're the best....thank you.
@@blizzytaj Actually I lied, I do have one more question. Once I am running both units on cool, what should the pressure reading be? Thanks again
On 2:44 write LO SIDE 391. Is that mean da on the low side should be 391 psi. And you charge ~120psi!Why you didnt fill on the 391? Please explain. Thank you.
Pressures can't be read correctly when adding refrigerant to a mini split like traditional HVAC units. Any pressures read in the video are just what this unit is currently running at.
Maybe the sticker doesn't explain completely, but usually this states the maximum allowable pressure that unit is designed to handle, not operating pressure.
Operating pressure varies depending on compressor modulation, indoor and outdoor temperatures, pipe insulation etc.
BTW all blended refrigerants have to be added as a liquid so it stays in a complete blended state…. blended refrigerant can and will separate when leaving the jug as a vapor.
If the unit is low like this one, does it mean the unit has a leak?
Bingo!
When you add 410A, do you keep the unit running at Max Cold or no?
I let it run in normal cooling mode.
did you have the mini split running when you add the 410 refrig. ?
Thats exactly what my question is.
@@joedenny8853 well I gave it a shot, not knowing the answer, I hooked the gauges to it and started it, added just a little at a time, got the pressure up like one that was working, 120 and wow it worked like a champ and still going, been a month and doing great, I guess It worked
They come precharged up to 25ft lines, how to charge for 50ft line set, 3/8 -1/4????
Question, do i run the ac on cold when charging? Or doesn’t matter?
yes, or you will be fighting the high pressures of the compressor in heat mode.
Ebay, Walmart, and Amazon have stopped listing R410a.
You have to buy from online sources, but you can buy it.
Be careful of extremely low prices, most are companies that "disappear" as soon as you pay.
Another thing is that some places require you (by law) to fix a refrigerant leak before adding refrigerant. The refrigerant does not get used up like gasoline in a car. It has to leak out to be low on refrigerant.
I add refrigerant by required weight but my suction pressure was like 74 psi and suction line is 24 degrees
In this scenario, is there an oil that should be added? I recharged my old Corvette, and my research showed I needed to add oil, but I don't know about a mini split.
Forgot to purge the hose before adding the refrigerant. Also, I would recommend letting the unit run for about 15-30 minutes to see if the pressure drops or increases. Those pressures with fluctuate depending on the weather outside.
On a single head unit, you don’t have to wait anymore than 5 minutes. The system isn’t really big so it doesn’t take long to stabilize.
Thanks for the help
Thanks for sharing
Good video but there is 1 main thing you either didnt do, or forgot to show. ALWAYS EMPTY YOUR HOSES INTO THE SYSTEM BEFORE DISCONNECTING THEM. Especially with R22 units !!!!! I will weigh the refrigerant in 1-2oz short, close the valve on the refrigerant tank & then open up the low side of ur gauges to pull the refrigerant from your hoses into the system. If you dont have low loss hoses, ( which is against the law ) you will piss so much refrigerant out of your hoses. If you do have low loss fittings all that refrigerant trapped in the hoses will be wasted. This becomes critical when your only doing a service call/ clean & check. If you dont empty your hoses, after hooking up 3-4 times, your system is going to be low.
Where’s this r410a Amazon seller? I’d like to be able to buy it online like the creator.
When you recharge them does that automatically kick on the compressor because my fan is running slow and I don't think my compressor is running and I think my system is empty
What I did was hook up the tank to the yellow line, hooked the line to the middle valve. Then I opened the tank. And then, with nothing else hooked to the valve, I opened the high and low pressure sides and let the yellow line and the valve get purged of air. Then I hooked the blue line to the valve (still off) and hooked the other side the the low pressure valve on the unit. I loosened the blue line at the valve to express the air in the line. Then I flipped the tank over and opened it up. Started the unit, the pressure was about 50, clearly very low. I filled slowly in increments while the compressor was running until I had it at 120. The unit was blowing hot air out of the compressor and very cool air inside. I ran it extensively. Tested everything for leaks, none found. I fault myself for this fiasco because I didn't monitor the new installation properly. Maybe on the fill it's just approximate, but it's running as well as it ever did. I feel like I didn't get a pit of contamination in the unit. Leaving the pressure gauge on it all night. Makes me want to get a recovery tank and a scale. This account, of course, is fictional :). I am not properly licensed to do this work, so this is just personal fantasy.
And as a final dream, the manufacturer's tech emailed me and told me 1/2 hr after turning the unit off, the pressure should be 1.6 to 1.8 mpa. So no guesswork. That's 232 psi to 261 psi.
Hi. While charging do I have to turn ac on?
Yes, on COOL with the thermostat set to 62°.
so you didnt connect the red hose?
How i can know it is fully charged? Or I am over changing?
No purge. Adapter has a schrader valve so if you put the adapter on first you won’t let much out but never check refrigerant on these unless you feel there’s a problem cause as he said you loose some every time you put gauges on and take them off.
how do I calculate the required r410 on an empty 4-zone mini split 36kbtu, Suction OD is 3/8 and Liquid OD is 1/4, I have 82ft total for all 4zones but not sure if I need to multiply this number by 2 because each set has two lines, if so then its 164?
Buy and read a book on basic refrigeration then go buy and read a book on mini-splits because they are different then go online take your test get your certification they will send you your license in the mail… now you’ll know…… and Never I mean Never go into any forums on this subject
I don't use gauge to measure. I prefer ampere clamps. Also, to top up refrigerant tpye 410a and R32. You need a medium like compressed unit to transfer the gas bogus refrigerant.
My adapter is hollow inside. So it doesn't push the valve on ac...
This video helped me greatly, thanks
Thank you