i got the window regulator arms and motor pair for both driver and passenger sides for $120 total! also side note we didn't take out the speaker or door panel wiring haha, probably would have made it alittle easier. but we did end up sliding the glass completely out the top, there was 3 guys so it made it easier. i guess if you're gonna solo this though your way is better haha good job by the way
well i bought the whole arm with the motor attached,it almost seemed easier to replace all that then have to drill new holes and work somewhat blind with the motor. we still had to drill out the 4 factory rivets holding the arm assembly, and just used nuts and bolts like you did but yea took alittle over 2 hours so i guess its all about the same haha
Thanks a ton really helped out a lot! I was able to order my part on Amazon.com for around 24 dollars, came in the mail a week later and today I installed it using your video with out any major issues.. Was AWESOME!!! saved a few hundred dollars...
I'm just getting ready to start this process on BOTH sides of my 1995 Firebird. However, the driver's side window quit working while all the way DOWN. Do I have to get the window in the up position to be able to change out the motor and mechanism? And if so, how do I do that? The motor won't work to be able to get it up and if I pull up on the glass, it won't budge.
Hope I have the patience you do when I try this. I've had 6 Camaros over the years with bad window motors. A person would think gm could make a better motor by now. The windows are just two heavy. Have to wonder if they make these junk motors in order ro sell more down the road. I've owned six Camaros over the years and have had trouble with everyone of them. Your video will help me a lot.
Thank you for making this video!! My window motor is very slow in my 95 trans am and I will be replacing it soon! I also have been having window leak problems! That little tip at the end about adjusting the black knob to make the window be more snug with the rubber, is really going to help me! Thanks!!!
i have the same camaro i have a question about a part i need. It is part of the front bumper driver side one of them fell off and don't know where. could you happen to help with the part name?
Thanks for the video.! My dad is giving me his 2002 Camaro and it needs the passenger side window motor replaced so that's what I get to look forward to. :) This video will help a lot. I don't mind drilling holes. It will just make it easier to do the next time when the motor goes out again. lol.
Also, did you ever have it with a 4th generation f body where it wasn't the motor but just sticking in the tracks? or the motor was fine and the regulator had broken or needed to be lubed? Did you lube the regulator or clean/lube the window tracks when you did this job and maybe just didn't show it? 1 more.. my books say to set the window at 1/2 way up. Is that only if you plan to also do the regulator? Thanks. This is the second video for motor replace, 4th/F Body, and they are very simular.
In my case, I find that the bottom 2 rivets that secure the REGULATOR assembly to the door skin have worn the round anchor holes to an "oval/elongated" shape. What kind of ancillary/additional problem am I looking at here before I attempt to drill out the 3 rivets that secure the motor to the assembly? Thank you for any comments. ART...in Sacramento, CA
Chuck, you did a great job with the video, just did mine today in about and hour. The only reason I was able to it at all was because of your detailed video. Saved $300, thanks again brother.
+Chuck Fasst what did you use to put back the piece where the buttons for the windows and unlock/lock switch are? Mine is loose and don't know what to use to put it back to its place
Good video. I have some questions 1) I have a 1994 Firebird and both of my service manuals have warnings about removing the motor from the regulator without securing the counter-ballance spring with a bolt. In your video you do nothing to the regulator. So..if I'm only changing the motor, and I don't remove the sash from the and I clamp the window all the way up like you did, I can pretty much ignore the warning and count on my motor replacement being very simular? Thanks
thanks alot man, it took me like 3 hours to do it that because i broke a pice where the it pushes the window but i already fix it. this video was very helpfull, you were the teacher and i was the student :-).
Ok, thanks for that! Hey Chuck, would you know how to remove the looseness in the door windows? Mine rattle so much when closing with the windows down!
I would also like to know as well. I hear a lot of rattling when I close my driver's side door. I suspect that intense rattling to be the cause of my window recently going off-track and becoming unhinged.
Thank you Chuck Fasst! I just removed both motors and will install replacements when they are delivered. I couldn't have done it without your step by step video. I have a "99 SS Camaro so I'll be subscribing to your vids. THANKS!
Tell your helper to not stand in front of the camera during your instructional video... or get a younger bikini model next time to help! Also, show the step when you applied the C-clamp to hold the window... it just seemed to magically appear.
Good Job Man. I have been fighting my regulator on my 95. I made the mistake of being lazy and paying a local glass shop to come to my job and put a new driver side motor in that I supplied. You made it look so simple. The moron that did mine drilled out the main big regulator rivets to change my motor. I trusted him to do his job correctly because my car is my baby. Two days later my window fell forward. It was a hot 110 degree Waco summer and I was pissed. Drove to the glass shop early on a Saturday morning waiting...the guy was scratching his head in amazement at what the moron kid had done to my door. He spent 3 hours getting the window to hold upright on it's own. 1 year later this spring things were going awry again. 2 part epoxy and some Frankesteining, it held through the summer until august and the glue melted. Bar stock aluminum bracket and bolt assembly at one of the wollard out rivet holes seems to have helped since then. I still have to nudge it at the end of the up cycle. All 4 rivet holes have been gouged by the shoddy workmanship. Thanks Affiliated Auto Glass." You Wiesenhymers You"!!! (in my best Arnold impersonation). Until My macgyver instincts kick end and I remedy my problem completely, my door panel still remains in my garage. Thanks for You video and reading my sad story.
+ramxrox oh man I feel you. Yep sometimes these shortcuts you find online work pretty good despite some of the wankers who leave disparaging comments about disturbing the integrity of the precious vehicle. And yes it is imperative using either method to get those little nuts and bolts tightened securely and glued so they won't unloosen
Thanks for the reply. I discovered today that one of my power window switch terminals ( drivers side terminal D) had overheated and now has no continuity. I'm buying a new switch. It's been not working on that side for a while.. but I remember now my drivers side motor was working fine before it just stopped one day. Do you think I should take off the panel and check the works before I install the new switch? Thanks again.
Thanks Chuck. I got a new switch recently as my old one had failed overheating. It didn't make my window move when I installed it. So I tested the switch connector w/multimeter. Seemed correct save for readings from the express down module leads D&E. They made my ohms meter deflect all the way past zero. I noticed that module has it's own independent power source&relay. Any idea how to testing those 2 leads for correct readings wi/multimeter? I don't want to fry my new switch. Thanks again.
Whew. Just now checking out these comments. Once you pull out the original motor you should be able to turn the window regulator gear with a makeshift tool jammed in the plastic gear - as I recall. How'd it work for you?
Is the red tape just some thick double sided 3m used as a spacer so to speak. Just to fill the gap? Mine are loose, not going to buy new trim pieces until it's time to do window motors. Did it work? Thank you!
@VoidmasterNX Well you know the motor is burnt if it slows down and shutters to a stop. You can check the motor at the switch or pigtail with a jumper 12 volt. You can check the switch with one o' them new fangled tester contraptions that goes beyond your usual volt/ohm tester (Or look for wiring diagram online to apply 12 volts to the proper color wire to switch) They cost a few bucks and I ain't got one ;-\
You can sometimes use a little lube but it can get real messy! It seems that it is usually the motor that goes out as they are not good enough quality. Now you see the procedure is a bit different with this method of drilling and leaving the regulator in the door.
Maybe my window motor isnt going bad. That park where you were pointing at 13:57 is where mine isnt staying flush and their is about a half in gap. Where you were pointing at 14:05, will that fix my issue? my motor isnt lagging just wont go all the way up
I have a 97 RS. Unfortunately, I have aftermarket window switches. The car was converted from manual to power windows. Passengers side is dead. I don't know what I'm going to find in that door. I'm wondering if it's going to be this www.ebay.com/itm/161162334196?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT It has the same switches, they just took them out of the housings and put them in where the stock switches go.
Thanks for the vid, but you do know that this is not a true 35th anniversary edition right? they only made very few of them. All camaros came with the little plaque above the radio but the true anniversary edition cars had the rally stripes that ended in the checkered flags on the hood and rear deck. Plus the leather seats were embroidered with the 35th year anniversary crest and also had fender badges that matched the seats. Nice car non the less I have one myself black on black with the 6spd borg warner. Did the ls6 intake ,cam and head swap put on some full length SLP headers back to a full magnaflow 3" exhaust and a dyne to net 430rwhp and 435 rwtrq. Next is going to be a new progharger f1 should be able to net somewhere around the 675-700 rwhp !
Lol the little plaque makes them all 35th anniversary editions actually. Well according to bluebook. But the red cars with the special wheels and rally stripes are "35th anniversary LIMITED editions"
Rivets are not supposed to turn. When they do, they are harder to drill out. You need to apply more pressure and adjust with different angles of attack with the drill bit.
Omg. Another door hack video. Do you know how ez it is to do it the right way with a Taiwanese regulator from Ebay or Rock Auto? If you loose your coil spring this way you Will burn out that motor in no time.
crappy design went into these cars, anyone knows it that changed the plugs and wires and watching this confirms it. I wish these designers also thought of the cars being worked on as well.
In many cases I wonder if GM gets their money's worth on parts supplied by other manufacturers. All the same I see a lot of difficiencies in components of many cars that I find deplorable and inexcusable!
Yep, these damn things come into my shop all the time, this looks good on an "engineers" computer screen but fails in the field as like other "intelligent" automotive ideas. Mass cheap production is the problem period.
hello i have a question when ever you drill the revets and you replace them with secrews wher excly do you put them?? like in the same posistion where the revets were??
Thank you!
Great job sir
Thank you muchly.
My main issue was remembering how the motor sits in the door. But you cleared that up quick. Thanks!
Thanks racemup. The video was a big help.
i got the window regulator arms and motor pair for both driver and passenger sides for $120 total! also side note we didn't take out the speaker or door panel wiring haha, probably would have made it alittle easier. but we did end up sliding the glass completely out the top, there was 3 guys so it made it easier. i guess if you're gonna solo this though your way is better haha good job by the way
well i bought the whole arm with the motor attached,it almost seemed easier to replace all that then have to drill new holes and work somewhat blind with the motor. we still had to drill out the 4 factory rivets holding the arm assembly, and just used nuts and bolts like you did but yea took alittle over 2 hours so i guess its all about the same haha
O thank god someone made a vid of this.
I have a '99 Pontiac Firebird, and this video was perfect in assisting me to install my window motor. Thanks, it was very heplful.
Thanks a ton really helped out a lot! I was able to order my part on Amazon.com for around 24 dollars, came in the mail a week later and today I installed it using your video with out any major issues.. Was AWESOME!!! saved a few hundred dollars...
David Stoneking what is called ? The part
I'm just getting ready to start this process on BOTH sides of my 1995 Firebird. However, the driver's side window quit working while all the way DOWN. Do I have to get the window in the up position to be able to change out the motor and mechanism? And if so, how do I do that? The motor won't work to be able to get it up and if I pull up on the glass, it won't budge.
good job
Hope I have the patience you do when I try this. I've had 6 Camaros over the years with bad window motors. A person would think gm could make a better motor by now. The windows are just two heavy. Have to wonder if they make these junk motors in order ro sell more down the road. I've owned six Camaros over the years and have had trouble with everyone of them. Your video will help me a lot.
good job took your time no misstake that what count
Yep that job went like clockwork and lasted much longer than that woman.
thank you sir ths video is really helpful. i did mine in an hour and 45.
Thank you for making this video!! My window motor is very slow in my 95 trans am and I will be replacing it soon! I also have been having window leak problems! That little tip at the end about adjusting the black knob to make the window be more snug with the rubber, is really going to help me! Thanks!!!
thanks for the help, could not have done without this instruction. I would recommend using longer screws for an easier alignment
+Alan Medlow you are welcome I have done this a few times and those cheaper Motors last.
i have the same camaro i have a question about a part i need. It is part of the front bumper driver side one of them fell off and don't know where. could you happen to help with the part name?
Ya got me on that one. Bracket - brace?
if you can see the same picture when reading this comment its the bottom piece where the lady is standing
Thanks for the data on how to rebuild a starter.
Gotchaplumber
I could use a helper like her ..thanx for video
Great video very helpfull! I was able to complete the task in just under two hours
Thanks for the video.! My dad is giving me his 2002 Camaro and it needs the passenger side window motor replaced so that's what I get to look forward to. :) This video will help a lot. I don't mind drilling holes. It will just make it easier to do the next time when the motor goes out again. lol.
Good
good video im gonna try to change mines hopw it goes as smoth as u made it seem
Also, did you ever have it with a 4th generation f body where it wasn't the motor but just sticking in the tracks? or the motor was fine and the regulator had broken or needed to be lubed? Did you lube the regulator or clean/lube the window tracks when you did this job and maybe just didn't show it? 1 more.. my books say to set the window at 1/2 way up. Is that only if you plan to also do the regulator? Thanks. This is the second video for motor replace, 4th/F Body, and they are very simular.
thanks chuck, i'm doing mine next week and this will be my guide!!
Would certainly try the switch first as it is easy to do or if u don't have the switch you can test the old one or the connector.
In my case, I find that the bottom 2 rivets that secure the REGULATOR assembly to the door skin have worn the round anchor holes to an "oval/elongated" shape. What kind of ancillary/additional problem am I looking at here before I attempt to drill out the 3 rivets that secure the motor to the assembly? Thank you for any comments. ART...in Sacramento, CA
Julie Spencer Aw. Heavy duty wear. On other cars I have drilled out those regulator rivets and replaced them with 1/4 in. bolts and nuts.
Just did the axle bearing in her car. Turned out to be a real challenge - but worth it :-)
@St1King Great. Looks like my answer ended up above. Again, great price for that!
Now that sounds good. I will be looking up tht article next time I do this. Good tip,
Chuck, you did a great job with the video, just did mine today in about and hour. The only reason I was able to it at all was because of your detailed video. Saved $300, thanks again brother.
+Boccaccio Boyer ... Righto :-)
+Chuck Fasst what did you use to put back the piece where the buttons for the windows and unlock/lock switch are? Mine is loose and don't know what to use to put it back to its place
my window just dropped and wont roll up, is that the regulator or is it just off track
Sometimes, screws work loose.
Good video. I have some questions 1) I have a 1994 Firebird and both of my service manuals have warnings about removing the motor from the regulator without securing the counter-ballance spring with a bolt. In your video you do nothing to the regulator. So..if I'm only changing the motor, and I don't remove the sash from the and I clamp the window all the way up like you did, I can pretty much ignore the warning and count on my motor replacement being very simular? Thanks
thanks alot man, it took me like 3 hours to do it that because i broke a pice where the it pushes the window but i already fix it. this video was very helpfull, you were the teacher and i was the student :-).
nice job sir!!! i will use your help to get my window fix.
Oh yes - piece of cake ... or, piece of pie as they say in Russia ;-)
@pdaddy28216 yeah it is there charging me 160 for both im glad there youtube
Ok, thanks for that! Hey Chuck, would you know how to remove the looseness in the door windows? Mine rattle so much when closing with the windows down!
Robert Poudrette I am trying to remember if there is a couple of sliders you can adjust tighter against the glass. It has been a little while now.
I would also like to know as well. I hear a lot of rattling when I close my driver's side door. I suspect that intense rattling to be the cause of my window recently going off-track and becoming unhinged.
+JillyBean860 Yup. Sounds like stuff came loose.
Chuck Fasst
Thank you Chuck Fasst! I just removed both motors and will install replacements when they are delivered.
I couldn't have done it without your step by step video. I have a "99 SS Camaro so I'll be subscribing to your vids.
THANKS!
+Phil Munoz Indeed :-)
You are welcome Grasshopper.
Tell your helper to not stand in front of the camera during your instructional video... or get a younger bikini model next time to help! Also, show the step when you applied the C-clamp to hold the window... it just seemed to magically appear.
I know, huh ...
Good Job Man. I have been fighting my regulator on my 95. I made the mistake of being lazy and paying a local glass shop to come to my job and put a new driver side motor in that I supplied. You made it look so simple. The moron that did mine drilled out the main big regulator rivets to change my motor. I trusted him to do his job correctly because my car is my baby. Two days later my window fell forward. It was a hot 110 degree Waco summer and I was pissed. Drove to the glass shop early on a Saturday morning waiting...the guy was scratching his head in amazement at what the moron kid had done to my door. He spent 3 hours getting the window to hold upright on it's own. 1 year later this spring things were going awry again. 2 part epoxy and some Frankesteining, it held through the summer until august and the glue melted. Bar stock aluminum bracket and bolt assembly at one of the wollard out rivet holes seems to have helped since then. I still have to nudge it at the end of the up cycle. All 4 rivet holes have been gouged by the shoddy workmanship. Thanks Affiliated Auto Glass." You Wiesenhymers You"!!! (in my best Arnold impersonation). Until My macgyver instincts kick end and I remedy my problem completely, my door panel still remains in my garage. Thanks for You video and reading my sad story.
+ramxrox oh man I feel you. Yep sometimes these shortcuts you find online work pretty good despite some of the wankers who leave disparaging comments about disturbing the integrity of the precious vehicle.
And yes it is imperative using either method to get those little nuts and bolts tightened securely and glued so they won't unloosen
ramxrox
Hey! A friend and I atempted to replace my motor and we ended up ripping out the track, any advice on gettin it back in there?
@VoidmasterNX Hey, we are still running the washer. The easy way would be to paint the washer I suppose.
Thanks for the reply. I discovered today that one of my power window switch terminals ( drivers side terminal D) had overheated and now has no continuity. I'm buying a new switch. It's been not working on that side for a while.. but I remember now my drivers side motor was working fine before it just stopped one day. Do you think I should take off the panel and check the works before I install the new switch?
Thanks again.
Thanks Chuck. I got a new switch recently as my old one had failed overheating. It didn't make my window move when I installed it. So I tested the switch connector w/multimeter. Seemed correct save for readings from the express down module leads D&E. They made my ohms meter deflect all the way past zero. I noticed that module has it's own independent power source&relay. Any idea how to testing those 2 leads for correct readings wi/multimeter? I don't want to fry my new switch. Thanks again.
Whew. Just now checking out these comments. Once you pull out the original motor you should be able to turn the window regulator gear with a makeshift tool jammed in the plastic gear - as I recall. How'd it work for you?
Thank you! We are going to do this ourselves, and not pay 170 bucks!!
Thanks. I'll figure it out somehow. CHEERS
Thanks for the help. I found where to drill holes from the firebird nation site.
+Tom Strickland Cool!
Is the red tape just some thick double sided 3m used as a spacer so to speak. Just to fill the gap? Mine are loose, not going to buy new trim pieces until it's time to do window motors. Did it work? Thank you!
Yup. 😊
@VoidmasterNX Well you know the motor is burnt if it slows down and shutters to a stop. You can check the motor at the switch or pigtail with a jumper 12 volt. You can check the switch with one o' them new fangled tester contraptions that goes beyond your usual volt/ohm tester (Or look for wiring diagram online to apply 12 volts to the proper color wire to switch) They cost a few bucks and I ain't got one ;-\
I have an 02 SS and I wouldn't mind converting it to manual Windows
Glad to be of service and u got 'er done quick :-)
Did you get that back in? I suppose you would have to remove that if you were replacing the glass but, thankfully - I haven't been there yet :-)
Usually those motors go bad slowly, so it could be mechanical. Did u find out?
You can sometimes use a little lube but it can get real messy! It seems that it is usually the motor that goes out as they are not good enough quality. Now you see the procedure is a bit different with this method of drilling and leaving the regulator in the door.
Yup. Right thru the same holes.
The three screws go right through the three holes and into the holes where the rivets were drilled out.
I live i Portland Oregon as well and I would like to pay you for my window it won't go all the way up but it goes down perfectly. And thank you
Looks like I missed out on that side hack! 😢
@BadBrad9925 wow!That is dirt cheap. Way to go :-)
I see. How much was your part?
Sure thing. Always appreciate the comments.
Maybe my window motor isnt going bad. That park where you were pointing at 13:57 is where mine isnt staying flush and their is about a half in gap. Where you were pointing at 14:05, will that fix my issue? my motor isnt lagging just wont go all the way up
Yup
Plugs and wires on GM LS series motor couldn't get any easier actually.
I have a 97 RS. Unfortunately, I have aftermarket window switches. The car was converted from manual to power windows. Passengers side is dead. I don't know what I'm going to find in that door. I'm wondering if it's going to be this www.ebay.com/itm/161162334196?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
It has the same switches, they just took them out of the housings and put them in where the stock switches go.
Hey man: Let us know how that went.
And you are very welcome, sir :-)
Can you tell me where to find the diagram used to mark the holes to drill? Thanks!
Google for that. It's out there
your welcome bub. I'm occasionally willing to help the mortals every now and then ;-)
@paulsjunkcars . hey thanx :-)
Thanks for the vid, but you do know that this is not a true 35th anniversary edition right? they only made very few of them. All camaros came with the little plaque above the radio but the true anniversary edition cars had the rally stripes that ended in the checkered flags on the hood and rear deck. Plus the leather seats were embroidered with the 35th year anniversary crest and also had fender badges that matched the seats. Nice car non the less I have one myself black on black with the 6spd borg warner. Did the ls6 intake ,cam and head swap put on some full length SLP headers back to a full magnaflow 3" exhaust and a dyne to net 430rwhp and 435 rwtrq. Next is going to be a new progharger f1 should be able to net somewhere around the 675-700 rwhp !
Azazel Z28 Yep i had a Z-28 before this one. That one of yours is gonna fly. Lookin' at 10s I would say.
Lol the little plaque makes them all 35th anniversary editions actually. Well according to bluebook. But the red cars with the special wheels and rally stripes are "35th anniversary LIMITED editions"
Well, I see some older comments here but RUclips does not allow me the option to respond to them for some reason ... sorry :-(
Helpful thanks... More importantly, another helpful tip for the ladies out there is that it's okay to wear a pink sports bra as a regular top!!!
There is a special tester that will check all those circuits. Of course its expensive. Otherwise - I hope you figgered it out.
Did it work out?
Thanks, you cut my time into mere minutes instead of hours. Thanks.
@BadBrad9925 Hey man - that's what we're here for :-)
Rivets are not supposed to turn. When they do, they are harder to drill out. You need to apply more pressure and adjust with different angles of attack with the drill bit.
Well, she's no wife but she sure is good to have :-) and she has a cool car :-)
That's what its all about :-)
Yeah Buddy: This is what it is all about, right here :-)
Omg. Another door hack video. Do you know how ez it is to do it the right way with a Taiwanese regulator from Ebay or Rock Auto? If you loose your coil spring this way you Will burn out that motor in no time.
Hey, that might be the fastest time yet! :-)
This all works on the '95
U got it :-)
crappy design went into these cars, anyone knows it that changed the plugs and wires and watching this confirms it. I wish these designers also thought of the cars being worked on as well.
In many cases I wonder if GM gets their money's worth on parts supplied by other manufacturers. All the same I see a lot of difficiencies in components of many cars that I find deplorable and inexcusable!
Those damned engineers. Yep, the biggest, all time complaint of mechanics everywhere :-\
Yep, these damn things come into my shop all the time, this looks good on an "engineers" computer screen but fails in the field as like other "intelligent" automotive ideas.
Mass cheap production is the problem period.
Dislike. Get over it
hello i have a question when ever you drill the revets and you replace them with secrews wher excly do you put them?? like in the same posistion where the revets were??
Yup ... 😅
aa okay thanks