5 MORE Car Myths You Actually Can Fall For | Proven OR Debunked? Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- A Master Automobile Mechanic Shares 5 MORE Common Car Myths that you should know if they are true or false.
In this video we talk about common car myths that many car owners actually believe and some car myths that are believed to be myths but they are actually true.
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0:00 Intro
0:21 1st Myth
2:29 2nd Myth
5:15 3rd Myth
7:07 4th Myth
9:37 5th Myth 
Авто/Мото
Start/stop is trash. So is cylinder deactivation.
Totally agree with following the manufacturers break in procedures and 1000 mile break in oil change.
Toyota doesnt DO THAT. They DONT change until the first 10,000.
@@riceburner4747 correct and it’s absolutely ridiculous
I changed my oil on my new Lexus just over 1000 miles.
@@stevenstrain283 Isn’t 1000 miles sufficient for the break-in?
@@stevenstrain283 I did not know that?
Another great example of professionalism. Great job AMD.
@@Matthias_Fischerwhat do you mean tip 4&5 because it works for oil leaks ? He never said it works for oil leaks in the first place ! You obviously weren’t listening to what he said. Maybe you need hearing aids.
Very good videos!
As a retired travelling salesman, I have a suggestion for anyone who has a breakdown when travelling away from home. When you need to find an honest, capable repair shop call a local auto parts store (locally owned is best), ask the manager for his recommendation, where he takes his own vehicle. Shops are his customers, he knows which are honest.
Love this series, just took my ‘23 Corolla in after 1,000 miles to the dealership; I’ve never seen so many people try and not take my money. Practically had to beg them to change the oil.
did they really change the oil or just took your money ? LOL
@@kris856 I’m sure they changed it, it’s the dealership I bought it from and they have lifetime replacement on power train if you use them for maintenance. Not changing the oil would be counter productive for them.
@@philipjames8253 :) I wish you all the best with the new corolla - I like the car generally, but after almost 70k miles (I've been driving it for the last year) I must say I don't like th driving position too much. My previous avensis was muuuuch better in this regard
@@kris856 thanks! My prior vehicle, a Hyundai (spit) dropped an exhaust valve at 106k. I needed something cheap I could get into right away. I love the Corolla and Camry’s. Corolla was just a little cheaper for the immediate need.
I bought my first Honda Odyssey back around 10 yrs ago, one day I was attempting to change the driving compartment filter. When I removed the glove box, I discovered that the steel bar that is installed as part of the assembly procedure when the dashboard is installed at the factory, was still in place!
I’d purchased this as a used vehicle from the same dealership that the original owner had, and I had every service item noted in the included manual that had been performed over the years.
Twice! Two times the owner had brought their car (my odyssey) in for something, and 2X it was listed as having been part of the service claimed to have been paid for.
The filter, was packed tight with dried leaves, bugs etc.
I had to use a vacuum and my air compressor to get all the accumulated sh/t out of the system before I installed the new air filter.
Now when I go for either a new (used) car or gave my car serviced I inspect the work immediately afterwards.
Don’t blindly trust the mechanics anywhere. Find someone who is good and has the highest level of experience as well as integrity and stick with that person
As a retired mechanic I was glad to hear you recommend a oil change after the break in period. I have always done one after the break in period but was shocked by how many metal particles came out when I just changed the engine oil and filter on my new 2023 4runner. I was really surprised and happy that I had done a oil change. With all the modern machining and exacting tolerances you would think everything would be pristine, especially since the 4runner is built in Japans factory that is known for being one of the best.
New engines, even well made ones will produce a lot of medal during break in. Since the rings aren’t fully seated you will also get a lot of gasoline and carbon in the oil as well. This is why you dump the oil at 3-4K miles for the first oil change. Many do it after 500 miles.
The way I see it is this: the piston rings have to have a slight interference fit to ensure proper compression and lack of oil consumption, etc. By definition that means you'll get some wear early on as the rings seat against the cylinder walls. I also believe that is why the break-in period wants you to avoid high speeds, long periods of driving at constant speeds, etc. Flush out those shavings caused by the seating early on and you should be good.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q ah you beat me to it I see :)
I thought they were built on Mexico
@@Kamal_AL-Hinai depends on the model and the market
I don't need to go to a doctor. All my organs are lifetime-guaranteed.
they do last a lifetime, just your lifetime isn't guaranteed
Same logic as, "Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life." 😆
When I lived in the Northeast, I always let my vehicle sit for a minute or two before I drove off when it was really cold out. Mostly I did it because I wanted a toasty warm vehicle but mostly I just wanted the fluids to circulate and warm up a bit before I got it going.
I’ve always followed the breaking procedures and yes, I always short cycle the very first oil change at about 10 to 1500 miles I figure it may not need it but oil is cheap and engines are not.
A big fan of your no nonsense approach.. keep up the good work. One request though- more technical breakdowns please.
Definitely noticed the transmission in older cars benefit from a good warm up. I can hear the gears change and rev differentl
We had a 1964 Dodge Coronet in California - rarely got below freezing. In the morning it was fond of staying in first gear for a few blocks.
I double clutch my manual transmission to help the sychro's work when the trans is cold..
Yeah my 88' Supra isn't exactly super old, has fuel injection of course, but I baby the hell out of her.
Would never just start up and go, always give it a min or two to warm up (mostly to watch the idle RPM go down to about 1K)
I have no idea if any of that matters, but I feel like on a cold start the car settles into a good idle RPM, it's good to go.
The only reason I let my car idle on a cold winter day here in the North, is to defrost my windshield and windows...scraping it alone isn't enough...the warm air, which the engine provides after a few minutes being on, gets rid of the condensation on the windows also.
This a safety issue to me. So I do it, too.
In Flagstaff some people pin large bubble wrap in one front door, put it across the windshield, and pin it in the other front door. I generally rely on Rain-X and a squeegee.
Yeah i’m in -40°c and even colder in the winter, my car needs a good 10-15 mins plus i plug in my block heater 🥶
@@flagmichael Isn't Flagstaff in Arizona? You don't get any snow or cold weather there. In Canada we use fitted windshield covers with elastic straps that loop around the side mirrors, with flaps that are pinched between the front doors. The fancy ones even have cute little ear things to cover the side mirrors.
@@SanchoPanza-wg5xf Sir, Flagstaff is high elevation and does get snow and cold weather every winter.
Excellent video! I'm old school in the sense that I properly break in any new car that I buy. In addition to what you have explained, the brakes need to break in as well. I've seen folks start the car and immediately put it in gear and take off abruptly in the middle of winter. I push the auto start button on my remote 5 minutes before I leave so that I'll have a little heat in the cabin so I don't freeze my nuts off. Thanks for letting the general public know the importance of break in periods.
I appreciate these videos. I hope you continue addressing potential myths. It's a great way to get an education about my car in bite-sized pieces.
As to marketers making maintenance policy. I place that beside lawyers writing medical policy. I get the need for the guidelines in both cases, but I want them made by the professionals who actually know what they're setting policy about. Engineers and Doctors, not marketers and lawyers.
Excellent presentation AMD. Please keep this a permanent ongoing series on your channel, even if time constraints limit you to one or two such videos each month. Thank you! 👍
FAO Amd - great channel, great ethics. I have some things I was taught in UK for your next Myths or Facts:
I was always taught, ideally, to get the car moving a little before turning the steering wheel to avoid unnecessary wear on tyres/suspension/steering components.
On a hill, always select neutral, apply handbrake, release footbrake to allow handbrake to take the weight of the car, then select 1st gear/park and shut off engine . . . so no strain on transmission.
After a long motorway/highway driving, allow the engine to idle a few minutes before turning off to allow fluids to cool/circulate turbos/engines etc.
Never rev engine past 3,000rpm until about 10mins of driving done.
If your car fails to start 1st time, let 30 secs go by before trying again (reduce damage to starter motor which might otherwise not have stopped spinning)
Switch off all lights/wipers/air con/heated rear window etc. and allow the car 30 secs to recharge the battery before shutting the engine down for the night. Especially in winter.
When going downhill, select the appropriate gear and have the engine doing most of the braking for you to maintain the posted speed limit. For example, 3rd gear, engine sat at 3,500rpm going downhill and moderate use on/off of the brakes so the brakes do not overheat/fade when you REALLY need them in an emergency.
See what you make of these, mister.
Cheers
Mike
I do a break in oil change after 3000kms. And to all who say it's useless i always answer back "i don't know any engine who died from more often oil change".
I love this channel. He gets right to the point, he explains things well, I feel more empowered when speaking about my car and the info is accurate and true. Thank you for doing all of this. You are very much appreciated!
Great tips once again. Here are a few I have heard
1. If you have to change one tire on an AWD vehicle, you have to change all four.
2. You can’t rotate tires on an AWD car
3. Park is a gear, not a brake. Use the parking brake when you park
4. Jump staring a car can damage the electronics of the donor car even if connected properly
5. Coasting in neutral can damage the transmission.
6. Never buy a Dodge/Chrysler/Fiat/Jeep, Mercedes, BMW, Audi, Jaguar, Land Rover, Chevy/GMC, Alpha Romeo,
1) That "change all tires at once on awd cars" is both true and a myth depending on the type of awd system you have.
None of what you said is true.
@@0HOON0this is definitely dependent on the vehicle and mileage/wear on the tires.
@@ozarkliving7263 Land Rovers have the best leather seats for waiting for a tow truck! This is a feature actually!
Another great informational video. Information is key. I’m retired now but was an ASE tech and shop owner with three employees for 42 years. I don’t know how many times I stressed to my customers “Read your manual and don’t listen to the salesman who sold you the car “ . A car is a very large investment for most people and they need to know what they should be doing. These 10,000 and 15,000 service intervals and “ Lifetime fluids “ are basically under laboratory conditions, no stop and go, no extended idling, no short trips, no hot, no cold, no mountainous driving etc. Which is basically normal use. Even if you somehow achieved that optimal condition there are still Maintenance items that you’re supposed to be doing within that extended interval. Even down to monthly checks, tire wear and condition, fluid levels ( even on expensive cars not all fluids are electronically checked), lights, wipers etc. A looked after car is a happy car and a happy car makes a happy customer. Keep up your good work and informing the people. 😊😊
We’ve gotten two new cars this year, and although the manufacturer has said nothing about a break-in procedure, I’ve changed the oil on both at 1000 miles just for peace of mind 👌🏼
Break in should be in the owners manual. In the manual for my 2023 Camry it's one paragraph. Easy to miss in the sea of information.
Best to leave the factory "break in oil" in place.
I don't think that's a bad idea for any new vehicle. You never know if something was overlooked and there is debris in there. I know the filter takes care of that but I've always done it just for piece of mind as well. It's not going to hurt anything, so why not.
@@anvilsvs these days there is no such thing; the factory oil is the intended oil for the car. It's just that you will accumulate more wear metals and get more fuel dilution in the early stages that is best to get out. It's also good to get the silicone out though that is less harmful.
New oil is always the best oil.
As a seasoned mechanic myself, I REALLY appreciate another fellow seasoned pro brining up engine break-in, so thank you for that! Sometimes talking this topic over with customers is like herding cats! I might be able to help with my own 2 cents on the engine break-in period; I do notice a lot of confusion and conflation coming from mewbie/amateur mechanics, mostly from the 'old car' clan, who hear about the flat tappet cam thing (this is 100% true, and you really shouldn't be using new flat tappet cam setups for daily street driven muscle cars today anyway, leave those at the drag strip. Spend the money on a hydraulic roller cam).. and the same guys will state (incorrectly) that anything with hydraulic roller lifters doesn't need breaking in at all (that part's true; for the valve train, but not the rest of the modern new engine or even a freshly machined old one). But they don't account for or sometimes even understand that pistons, bores and piston rings in any piston engine from any era, that's still gonna need several hundred miles to for their lifelong marriages to form, so to speak. So yes, break-ins are still 100% relevant across the board, just not for the same reasons across the board. However, what we could sit and split hairs on all day is for how long, the "proper" procedure, and the actual processes happening inside the engine.. That one can definitely go on ad infinitum lol
With the Hemi, after a short conservative break-in period, you're actually supposed to go full throttle while cruising intermittently for a few hundred miles. I would assume that this is to set the piston rings. I wouldn't call myself a mechanic, but I've always taken it easy with new cars, but my Ram with a Hemi was the first one I've seen that actually tells you to floor it for a period of time.
@@mplslawnguy3389 if you repeatedly floored a brand new engine directly after assembly it'd likely either blow itself apart by 10k miles, or burn as much oil an RX7 for the rest of its life 🤣
@@MacPoop It's not right after assembly. You're not supposed to exceed city speeds for a hundred miles or so, then you're supposed to floor it while cruising at 30 or 40. It's not flooring it from a dead stop.
Another great video. Especially liked how you bought up the "lifetime fluid" myth. The lifetime of the warranty period I'd suggest.
For example in my Country at least, Nissan does not specify a CVT fluid change in any of it's scheduled services. They have a 5 year warranty.
Mitsubishi on the other hand does specify a CVT fluid change, and they come with a 10 year warranty. The same Jatco transmission, two different company philosophies. Moreover it's rare here to find a Mitsubishi with a sick CVT but common with Nissan.
Hope to see you do more of these myth busting style videos.
Love this segment! Both part 1 and 2!!! Hello from Australia! Followed your channel for a long while now. LOVE IT! Down to earth, well explained in all eps!
Excellent video, well presented. I was an ASE Certified mechanic at a Chevy dealer in the late 80's, oh my how cars have changed. I could not work on a modern car and it is appreciated to listen to a true technician tell people how to take care of a modern car.
computer command control c.c.c. what junk
💯 Correct! 25 years of working on cars here and you're definitely helping explain debated topics with facts not feelings. When it comes to 💰 for maintenance/repairs lots of people have just feelings.
What point are you trying to make? Why are you bringing feelings into this?
Facts was the point... and you're asking about feelings. 🤣
@@jparker1823 Yes, You brought up feelings.🤔
What jparker means is that people just don't think rationally when presented with an expensive estimate. I've been a mechanic for close to 30 years and I see it ALL the time. "What?!? 2 grand for a leaking heater core?? Are you nuts? I'll just put in some miracle stop leak for a few bucks and I'll be fine!" And no matter what you say, their emotional side has taken over and they will not listen. Then you see the same person a few weeks later with a blocked heater core...
It's just that money brings up emotions, we've all been there, and done that. You have to turn on your rationality and critical thinking when it comes to car maintenance, and forget "feelings"...they will just get you in trouble.
I have some questions about breaking in and fluids.
Can anybody help?
Good series. There are plenty more myths to bust. You could keep this series going a long time.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I've been a subscriber since the early garage days. I love that you're still using that table when giving us lectures. Is there any way you can make content on diesel engines? May God bless you always.
Hi Mate, I've only stumbled onto your channel recently due to having a lot of free time from a bad motorcycle racing accident where I ended up with multiple fractures. I love the content and your delivery. Thanks very much.
I have one comment on the use of the start/stop system. There is one thing that was not mentioned in the video. Turbocharged engines. If the engine is very hot and has been heavily loaded the start/stop system can damage the turbo. This is a very unlikely scenario, but the start/stop will prevent the turbo from being cooled by engine oil by immediately shutting the engine off when the vehicle is stopped. For example, when driving long and fast on the highway and stopping at a gas station.
if you stop at a gas station, you have to turn your car off anyway. If you want to idle your car after you stopped after long periods of time, you just put it in Park and let the car idle.
👍 a lot of common sense but good to hear an expert mechanic clarify things. Like care of any other machine, a car needs proper maintenance in all areas you speak about. Changing oil on a new car after first 1,000 miles just makes logical sense, as well as going easy on the driving for first couple thousand miles. It’s a machine, take care of it and it will give good long lasting service.👍
Hi, I just learned how to remove a sealed electrical terminal for my Toyota fuel pump. Nice to be able to add this to my abilities. Now crimping and installation is obvious. ☺
Amazing video! I’ve always wondered and heard mixed things about having to let a turbo cool down, even after driving driving normally.
Thanks for your videos! I’ve learned so much about hybrids especially. I’d love to see a video about 87 vs 88 gasoline in newer cars (mpg, engine wear, etc). Thanks for considering!
I followed your advice on the 1K oil change on my 2022 highlander. Changes at 5k. You and Scotty Kilmer are the best.
Thank you for this detailed explanation and information.👍
Great content! You just saved a number of people some serious headaches with both videos. Thanks, from Houston, Texas
Love this series. Hope you do more in the future
Thank you AMD for your knowledge. I'm glad to be within an hour drive of you to have such an honest man/mechanic working on my Lexus when I don't have the time to diy or when it's beyond my comfortability. You're a great man and your wife is a sweetheart. I wish you longevity in your business bud!
About the start-stop, how about the scenario in Europe with very small displacement turbo engines (1.0liter 3cylinder), high boost (>120bhp per liter) that has start stop.
So you are in city traffic, rev up the turbo and then the start-stop shuts it off again. Doesn't that hot turbo eventually build up more carbon and wear because it cooks the oil?
Yes it does.
The turbo over heats, because it is no longer being cooled when it's shut down, resulting in the lubricating oil becoming carbonized which can lead to catastrophic failure of the turbo.
I love these videos and quite a few of these have been relevant to me in particular.i also love all your videos, entertaining and informative
Great video!
How about a video about having to replace certain components at a certain mileage? I would be interested in components that would leave you stranded (alternator, starter, fuel pump, etc) if broken. It would be nice to know if they should be replaced at a certain mileage to prevent unexpected breakdowns.
No mention on whether or not, or when to use High Mileage oil...
I enjoy every video. Keep it up. If our 2009 RAV4 ever developes a cold start rattle I'll be looking to bring it to you.
Looking for your review of the new Toyota Grand Highlander.
On the radiator fluid leak stop. We had a radiator leak in my son's old pickup. We used the leak stop. This in turn caused the raiayor to clog up and the engine would often overheat. We eventually just replaced the radiator. We were told by the machanic that the leak could have been fixed but the radiator was ruined by the leak stop stuff. Basically, like you said it would do, the leak stop clogged up the radiator.
I just got a 2023 Tundra and I was alway wondering about the Start/Stop. It’s good to hear that it does not harm the engine. Thanks for these great videos and would definitely want to see more of these, please.
🫡🫡i hope that Tundra is still working man. I have the old 5.7 V8 Tundra and the news about the new ones is scary
love this series. about the leaks, had a leaky heater core put a recommended stop leak in the radiator, worked great for about a week. then I had to romp on the accelerator, when I was done all the windows fogged up took it to the shop, we had a good laugh and replaced the heater core. fluids if used are just temporary. and will mess up your engine.
As a car guy who does his research I appreciate this coming from a Master Tech who knows his stuff. Great work brother!
Once again, AMD brings common sense to the masses. Thank you for your service, Sir!
👏👏👏👏
You are a true teacher...thanks for sharing your knowledge! and experience! I just bought a new Toyota and will absolutely be taking your advice and changing the oil at 1,000 miles after the break-in period.
👏👏👏👏
In some rare cases, engine oil stop leak might help. I had an awful 1987 Hyundai Excel with 130k and a bad oil leak (these cars rarely got 100k miles back then). Mechanic said it would be too expensive to repair. I was broke, unemployed and needed a car just to get to job interviews. I used engine oil stop leak and it stopped the leak for about another 8k miles. Just enough to get to job interviews. Finally got a job about an hour away, and about a month into it, driving home at 70 mph on the interstate, the engine blew up. I don't think I would have gotten those crucial 8k more miles without it. Since I had a job, I was able to qualify for credit to get a better beater car. I don't miss that car at all! Awesome video as always, AMD.
I'm and Engineer and a car maintenance fanatic, and here's my very short story: I couldn't convince or stop my father from doing and/or adding all kinds of things to his vehicles. Examples: "fuse kept blowing so I wrapped in tin foil" (true story); "Just add some STP to it. It'll stop rattling" (true story, and he was really ticked off when the emissions roadblock people wrote him a fix-it ticket because his old Chevy wouldn't pass); "Just pour a can of trans fluid in the tank. It'll clean up those valves" (yep - saw him do it a 100 times); "Got a radiator leak on the way back from xyz. Stopped on the way home and dumped a can of ground pepper in it. No more leak." (yep - at least he didn't use the old farmers fix this time: an egg). And the good news is he never set a vehicle on fire or did any damage that wasn't correctable, perhaps at a little more cost though. He grew up during a time period when few people even had cars where he lived, no one he knew had electricity, the outhouse was out back and Sunday was bath day. You made do with what you had available.
Egg works 👍🏻 it’ll get you home
@@royb2251 Yeah, if I'm on a dark and rainy road one night without cell service, using the peppering technique to get you out of a tough spot and to safety makes complete sense, maybe this comment poster could learn a few things, instead of coming off as condescending to past generations.
@@02markcal I’m sure it was intentional 👍🏻
@@02markcalthat is why I always carry a supply of peppercorns and a grinder in my emergency kit when travelling on dark and rainy roads at night far from any service stations 😊
Lmaooo how can someone be so ignorant
It would be hard to trust a dealer changing the oil at 1k. Sure they will charge for it, but how could we ever tell - especially the oil filter. Yes, more series like this, thank you.
You can tell. Even at 1000 miles the oil is discolored.
@@jpjp3873 Yes, but with the oil filters under the engine covers.... Unless you go under the car and remove the cover, most times you can see the filter topside.
I often caught my Ford dealer out with that
Next level technology is that there are options to video record the actual service being performed. Why not?
@@stevenstrain283 You'd be surprised how any would for the money. If ever caught ( and just how many check their oil after a change ) they could say, it was an oversight and the mechanic would be watched closer in the future.
I'm grateful for these videos, and I look forward to you debunking some common misconceptions.
AMD, this is my favorite car channel by far! Thank you for your time and knowledge. You are a good human being! God bless you and your family
GREAT VIDEO
VERY INFORMATIVE 👍🏼
Warming up for the transmission’s sake is so true. Even on my manual car I could tell the difference in shifts between cold and warmed up. It is more apparent on automatic transmissions because you can tell it doesn’t shift as well. So, yes warm up the engines before you drive.
And just drive gently, especially in winter, for the first 10-15 minutes...😊
You have a lot of car knowledge and you give great advice. I really like your channel and I hope you keep making great content. Thanks
I've been in the automotive business for 38 years and I now work for a large chain auto parts store. I know all about what you address in your videos part 1 and part 2. I try to educate my customers to help them learn how to maintain their vehicle. I'm in the business of selling but I won't try to sell someone something that they don't need just to make a sale. I take my Highlander to the dealership every 5,000 miles for routine maintenance. I know you don't have to do that if you know a reputable shop that will treat you right. I trust the dealership because they haven't tried to sell me something that I don't need just to make a sale and my dad works there so I get a discount for my service. Thank you for making these videos so people can learn more about their vehicle and not get suckered into paying for something that they might not need. Keep up the good work 💯👍
I like what he siad :''We're back to, not square one, but square negative 10''
@@SanchoPanza-wg5xf I've never taken square 1 to mean 1 squared. It means like return to the beginning. So go return to -10 is to be well before the beginning.
I don't know how your interpretation of the idiom makes any sense at all.
@@SanchoPanza-wg5xf that's valid lmao
Awesome video!! Another myth I always hear is whether or not having the A/C on opposed to windows down saves gas mileage.
keep the windows up and the ac on for fuel economy.
@@jaj145THAT'S MYTH
@@804MRMAN
No it's not.
Driving with the windows down produces enormous amounts of drag, which means the engine has to use more HP to keep the car moving at the same speed as with the windows up.
Aerodynamics is REAL.
Great videos.
A video suggestion: what small used car sales lots used to do to 'fix' cars ie: banana peels in the diff to quieten them down, whizzed odometers back (what to look for) etc.
Could we have more of this kind of video please. Thanks for all your videos,they are most informative!
I did my break-in oil change at 899 miles. I poured some of the midstream oil (not at the beginning and not at the end) into a black collection pan. It was like the oil was golden pearlescent paint. Full of micro-sized pieces of metal.
I also smelled the oil and there was no gasoline odor with it, a good sign that the rings were properly seated on the pistons.
My new 4Runner is happy.
I hope someone tests the quality of dealership/oil change place bulk oil vs Kirkland, Mobil 1, etc. That might be a myth to address.
One I heard is never let the fuel get below a quarter full. If you go below that the in tank fuel pump will overheat and fail prematurely. True or flase?
True... but not if you run below a 1/4 tank.
The fuel is the lubricant for the fuel pump... & will fail prematurely if you consistently run the tank near empty.
The reason they say to never go below a 1/4 tank... is because the pump will never be in danger of running unlubricated if you never drop below that level.
Thank you AMD, we always appreciate all of your insight. GOD bless you and looking forward to bringing our vehicle in October.
Thank you again Ahmed for keeping us up with the real deal. As I always say, fluids are cheap, engines and gear boxes are not.
On warming up you just don’t want to do extended warm ups no more than say 5min max. I live in the south where the heat is extreme and don’t personally use the start stop technology. I was hoping you’d do the life time fluid question, no such thing. Break in is just take it easy like you said the first 500-1000 miles. And change that oil at the end of that break in. On these additives to stop leaks it’s a Hail Mary pass on a 20yr old hooptie that’s at the end of its life cycle, if this is a car you’re wife/kids/family is relying on, FIX IT CORRECTLY. BTW these comments I did as you went through the video!!! Good stuff as always, stay blessed my friend!!
my sister has a Subaru with the start stop junk. I throw it in neutral when stopping so it won't cut off.
Amen on that stop-leak stuff unless it’s a beater and is a last-ditch before sending to the scrap yard and even then, maybe!!
I used it on an external head gasket leak on my 2001 Windstar with 250k miles. Not worth the effort to do head gaskets on it. Car is almost with nothing.
Outstanding program. An honest and extremely knowledgeable auto repair mechanic. How refreshing.
Great series here my friend! Glad you reviewed about the car breaking issue because after 100 years war of ICE engines the truth on this one is so little known still. One issue I would recommend covering is additives in oil or fuel and your take on that?
I like using marvel mystery oil just the recommended amount. I feel my vehicle runs better and smoother because of it
@@StrongerThanBigfoot I believe that! Unlike AMD and some others I have been a practitioner of using high-quality additives often in my car for years and it runs as smooth as silk the engine and transmission now it almost 300,000 miles on my 2009 Corolla. Thanks for sharing!
If the additives in oil from car maker are not enough, there test period should have catch the defect. The Engineers tested those oil to fit for purpose with correct and enough additives, why put other additives?
@@metzmatu8409 I don’t trust the manufacture saying things such as lifetime fluid, change oil every 10,000 miles… and more bs. Nope if anything I’ll err on the side of a bit more extreme. 296,000 miles on my Corolla nothing done to the engine or transmission in way of repairs, shifts so smoothly no valve train noise whatsoever no injector noise I guess I could say the proofs in the pudding
Other than cooling system band aids, a great additive for engine oil, power steering leaks and differential leaks is ATP AT-205. We’ve used this additive in our shop for engine oil leaks, rack/pinion and differentials. It is not for broken gaskets or seals, but will swell up those areas and potentially eliminate the leak until a proper repair can be performed. We advise our customers of these circumstances. Read the directions carefully on the packaging before use.
Let's not forget bars leak and STP oil treatment
I'm happy I finally got ev
@@user70331 Yet, you’ll still have maintenance on your EV. Keep a few fire extinguishers close by. Too many reports on fire due to the heat produced by the batteries. Lithium ion battery fire are very difficult to extinguish without complete submerged in water.
I’m a fan of marvel mystery oil
@@jamram9924 Lithium batteries are terrible in a fire. I've had to put them out before and god knows what kind of crap you're breathing in when they burn, and they take 20 times the water it takes to put out a regular vehicle fire.
Thank you for sharing this AMD! Yes, very helpful! I am so thankful I found your channel! I am a 5-time Toyota Camry owner! Mark in Iowa.
Great series....love it!
Would love to hear your turbo care tips. We have a grand highlander with 1400 km already and gaining rapidly…
Thank you AMD for your videos. They are very informative. I have a myth question I’d like to ask you. I own a 2023 Tacoma V6 and was thinking of installing an oil catch can. Most people I talk to say they really don’t do anything to prevent oil/carbon build up on the valves. What do you think? Thanks and keep up the videos. I love them!
the purpose of a catch can will always be beneficial unless you are concerned about a vehicles warranty or the price you’d have to pay to get one installed unless you do it yourself.
Most modern cars do have baffle call separator that stripped oil from vapour that pass through the PCV. Catch is not really needed.
Your Tacoma had both direct & port injection. The port injection will keep the valves clean..
Great subject matter. I watched pt 1&2 and agree with you on all myths/truths. I just never hear the explanation as detailed as you do. 👍🏻
On lifetime fluids…I heard changing transmission fluid after 70k miles was not recommended due to creating new issues.
Keep it coming Ahmed! Great content.
Maybe a tip for next episode: Italian tune and its impact on carbon or DPF cleaning (diesel cars).
On the next one you should talk about those fuel additives if they help
if it's an old car and with sludge built up, then yes it will help.....if it's a new car, you're wasting your money. I would advise however that you use top-tier gas as this is what manufactures prefer you to use😊
I absolutely love this series!
Great advice from a mechanic who cares about his customers cars.
I have always broken in my new cars and changed the oil at 1000 miles.
This used to be a warranty requirement, but today along with the crazy
lifetime fluids is not in your cars best interest.
Re Stop/Start, i hate it and refuse to buy a car where you can't disable it,
this rules out a number of modern cars for me, but i just refuse to accept that it saves
anything, and it wears out the starter motor far too quickly, infact stop/start driving
also wears out your car more quickly.
Can't wait for part 3 of this series.
Love these no nonsense videos, especially because they're underpinned by real life experience! Maybe this is a question you can answer: I find more and more cars who don't just have a spare wheel or even an emergency wheel, they only have a compressor and a leak stop product. Is a proper wheel (even an emergency one) not much better? Continuing to drive around with whatever caused the leak still in the tire doesn't strike me as very sensible. Also, can tires still be repaired once this leak sealant is floating around inside?
Start/stop is badnewsbears. As you mentioned, it’s additional unnecessary cycles on the starter, additional draws on the battery, as well as a much higher count of loss of engine lubricration.
Stop and Start SUCKS!
Gee… since the starter is so robust.. Not using it.. Will last forever
@TheCarCareNut. Hi, AMD. Here is a debated issue, please consider it for a future video. Does it hurt an automatic transmission to shift from reverse to drive while still moving? That is to say, must a driver come to a complete stop before shifting directions? Thank you kindly. 🚙
I agree with you, the “leak stoppers” are a waste of money. They produce more issues than correct them, I learned it from my own mistake.
Both of your videos awesome. Great information!!!!! Thank you!
I used to have a Camry Hybrid which had a lot of Start-Stop. After driving for 530,000km, the Starter was perfectly working fine even though it is probably the most overload part. Of course, the engine was still running fine too.
From memory the starter motor type system on a Camry Hybrid,
Is different to the starter motor set up on a non-hybrid.
Toyota hybrids do not have starters. They use one of the motor-generators in the transaxle to start the ICE.
Not only that, but they use the hybrid battery to start the engine. The 12 volt accessory battery just turns on the computer modules. @@shiftfocus1
Enjoyed the videos. I think a better title for this series would be something like “Fact or Fiction?”. By definition, if something is a “myth”, it means that it is false.
Yes, either that or just "True" or "False" regarding a particular statement!
Historically, "myths" have been popular stories that may or may not be true. After all, a lot of what we know to be true or false now may be found to be the other sometime in the future. There is a surprising number of myths people still believe to be false, notably the existence of narwhals.
In the early 1800s if you believed in gorillas you were a fool; in the late 1800s if you believed gorillas _didn't_ exist you were a fool.
Great format have learned alot many thanks
Great video, especially for people who are not dyi mechanics. Thanks AMD
No stop/start for me. I would have it disconnected or disabled.
Great series. Please continue.
Thank you so much for clarifying these myths especially additives and octane ratings which you explained so well. Any advice on premium diesel fuel perhaps? Mark, UK, Volvo V70 , 2.4D, 2007. Really enjoy your channel and looking forward to more excellent advice.
Love these kinds of vids 👍🏼
Learned alot from your videos keep em coming
Concerning tires, the salesmen say always replace in pairs but what if it’s only got 1,000 miles or so? 5,000 miles?
Buy the road hazard accidentally run over a nail on the sidewall at whatever mileage you care to find out then take back to salesman to claim your road hazard and see how many tires he replaces on your car and you will have your answer.
In pairs? Should be all 4.
@@JohnnyUtah9173 we’re not talking about tires for a Bugatti Veyron.
@@michaelbassett5105 my point is if you rotate your tires routinely as everyone should, all 4 will need replacement at the same time.
@@JohnnyUtah9173 yes that’s correct if all four tires need to be replaced you should replace all 4 tires. It doesn’t always happen that way sometimes you only need one. The salesman will tell you to replace two at a time. Because they sell tires and selling two makes them more money than selling one. If it was a safety issue they would replace two at a time under road hazard but it’s not they only replace one so they can sell you another one.
So glad you brought up lifetime fluids. That is the biggest pet peve of mine with modern cars
Looking forward to the video on start/stop! Excellent stuff.
I am victim of the "lifetime fluid" myth. I am getting ready to change the transmission fluid in my Toyota FJ cruiser at 58,000 miles. My local mechanic did not want to mess with it (he did not want to be on the hook for a transmission if something went wrong). Local Toyota dealership refused to do it. Luckily, I know it is BS, but it pisses me off that Toyota dealership refuses to acknowledge it.
Yup
Show the dealer the part about changing the fluid being required under certain circumstances.
I had a similar thing on my last car, also at 58,000 miles. My independent mechanic refused to perform a fluid and filter change on my transmission. So I did it in my driveway. It made a difference and I drained and added fluid two more times over the next few thousand miles to gradually (and that word “gradually” is important!) clean out the crud from the many fine passages. This was a CVT by Nissan, which are known to have issues. It required patience, but the result was a return to full performance. Had I known earlier I would have done the service at 30,000 miles and every 30,000 miles thereafter.
@@njsongwriter even my mechanic said no.. just bought a used 40,000 mile car.. changing all the fluids.. and he said cars are better now.. not necessary 😱 just wow.. On my 88 ford escort.. ( went 280,000 miles) When changing the timing belt..i said replace the water pump/thermostat also.. every time the mechanics gave me the eye..,🙄 well.. i was never stranded in the side of the road..
@@mygolfballsannoy "When changing the timing belt, i said replace the water pump/thermostat also" = a smart decision.
Thank you for your help/ Advice 👍, The biggest & oldest car myth, (chick magnet) If I buy this 🚗 Will the Ladies love it & me? 😂😆
I just love your channel, watch all your videos and use them as reference.
Great video! I hate start/stop systems, too. When I was a young man, in ancient times, it was a point of pride that the v8 hot cars I worked on did NOT shut off on warm idle, like at a red light....
Also: found only one useful additive, for a very specific need...
Grandmom's Dodge Dart has been parked, never started, for 16 years...smoked a lot on startup today. Hopefully, stuck piston rings. Sometimes, Amsoil or Marvel Mystery Oil, etc. will free them up. If not, get out the toolbox....