A Comparative Tasting of Bordeaux 2009 & 2010 Vintages - with Roger Bohmrich, MW

In this 2019 presentation to Educateurs in the Commanderie de Bordeaux, Roger Bohmrich, MW discussed, with considerable panache, the key similarities and differences between two back-to-back great vintages, 2009 and 2010, also drawing comparisons between the Left and Right Banks of the Gironde. The growing seasons in both years saw extended sun-hours with very little rainfall, but 2010 was, on average, cooler than 2009 and also received slightly more rain (an average amount in October). In 2009, merlot ripened to high sugar levels and very low acidity on the Right Bank; cabernet sauvignon on the Left Bank achieved exceptional phenolic ripeness, including the pips, and acid was also low. In 2010, grapes on the Right Bank were very small, with greater anthocyanin content than in either 2009 or 2005; extremely low rainfall (until October) resulted in highly-concentrated juice, with high acid and strong, assertive tannins. Bohmrich then led the group in a blind tasting of six producers, pairing 2009 and 2010: Ch. Canon (St. Emilion, 75% M, 25% CF); Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Leognan, about 65% CS, 30% M, 5% PV); Ch. Lascombes (Margaux, 48% CS, 48% M, 4% PV in 2009 and 45% CS, 55% M in 2010); Ch. Lafon-Rochet (St. Estephe, 65% CS, 30% M, 4% PV, 1% CF); Ch. Duhart-Milon (Pauillac, 63% CS, 37% M in 2009 and 73% CS, 27% M in 2010); Ch. Leoville-Barton (St. Julien, 77% CS, 22.5 % M, 0.5% CF in 2009 and 80% CS, 15% M, 5% CF in 2010). In general, the 2009s from each estate were more approachable despite their tannins, with lower acidity and, in the case of Lascombes, beautiful fruit in the nose. The 2010s displayed higher acidity and tannin levels, more assertive structure, concentration, focus and length, evoking descriptors such as “compact,” “class and breed,” and “incredible fruit contained in a powerful framework.” With an additional decade of maturity, the divergence between these twin titans should become even clearer.
Suggested tasting: Ch. Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 2009 and 2010, served blind.

[@BelgianGurista]

Thank you so much for this presentation! I've learnt alot. I'm a total novice and I feel like a little grape exposed to the big sun.

[@fvrs3411]

Duhart-Milon has really picked up the pace since their 2009 vintage. Their wines from the 90's are extremely disappointing and the '05 was uninspiring. Their 2010 is one of the best Bordeaux expressions I've ever had. Definitely one to watch.