How I Troubleshoot & Repair A Dead Shop VAC “No Start”
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 3 мар 2019
- #shopvac #repair #troubleshoot
Good working shop vac is vital to a clean work shop home and hobby's. In this Short video I tell a story how I troubleshoot and diagnosis a shop vacuum that stopped working.
Shop Vac Does Not Turn On Troubleshoot & Repair Motor
DISCLAIMER
Due to the factors out of control by ATEM OFFROAD, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information ATEM OFFROAD assumes no liability or responsibility for property damages or injuries incurred as a result of any information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk . ATEM OFFROAD recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen in this video, any injury damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools equipment or from the information contained in this video
Is the sole responsibility of the user and not ATEM OFFROAD. Be Safe
This video and description contains affiliate links which means if you click on one of these product links, I’ll receive a small commission. 
Хобби
This video is how I troubleshoot and repaired my shop vac. I used a fuse for testing purposes ONLY and I mentioned this in the video @ 12:12. I only advocate replacing this part with an exact replacement nothing els is acceptable. The fuse regardless of the size was used for testing purposes only!
Also the vac did not have a screen or bag so that Could definitely be what cause the debri to get inside the pump, no doubt about that. I don’t think that alone is what cause the safeties to blow, As you can see in the video there was no mechanical failure, hair could have caused a slight obstruction in the pump but I don’t think that alone caused the safeties to blow, rather a combination of events! Possibly the main cause was, 1 ) running beyond the duty cycle without cooling! 2) obstruction in the vacuum hose causing the the motor to work harder and overheat! 3) debris caught in the impeller. Thanks for watching
And just think, the majority of people will throw the entire thing in the trash and buy new because of a $2 part. Well done mate!
This 4 year old video save me $75....I had the same problem so I installed a 20 amp fuse and wala....it runs like a champ....Thank you for the video. I am now a subscriber.
"wala"? Do you mean "voila"?
Of course it runs, but if you want it protected, you'll need a fuse that closer to the ampere rating of the motor. A 20-amp fuse running on a 15-amp circuit is like just jumping the fuse terminals together with NO fuse.
I had miswired a replacement switch. The closeup in your video helped me resolve it. Thanks!
Thanks! I repaired my shop vac using your method and brought it back to life. I also greased up the bearings, and it sounds as good as new.
Thank you for telling me I don't have to tear it down as far as you did in the video! I was about to give up.
Thank you! That was the problem with my shop vac to. I put a 10 amp fuse in mine instead of a 30 amp, because my shop vac says it is a 5.75 amp vac. My shop vac works like new now. Brilliant idea with the automotive fuse. I shared this video with a bunch of my friends.
Conservative Casey 💥 nice , I appreciate it , glad I could help out, the 30amp was kind of high, but was used mainly for testing purposes. Cheers buddy!
Watched this and fixed my own as well! My vac was a 4.5 HP, all I had was a 20 AMP car fuse in my stock, and it seems to be working just fine. You saved some space in the local landfill. Thanks!
Thats awesome, Thanks for watching! I appreciate it! Cheers
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for explaining everything you were doing. My shop vac died and was looking into buying a new one until I saw this video. Turns out the plug on the power cable went bad. Replaced it for $2.69, put it back together and its working fine now. Thanks.
Chris White nice, and very cool you fixed your vAc and people can get some use out of this video, cheers!
I just wanted to say thank you for the video. I had one at home that had the same exact problem. Now working thanks to you.👍
Ted Whiting nice, I’m glad you liked it , cheers
Outstanding video! Had mine apart, fixed and reassembled in probably 10 minutes. Thank you!
Excellent 🍻
This video is awesome! You gave perfect step by step instructions. I got to what might be the fuse but it didn’t look like the one you had in yours. Whatever it is I believe it’s the problem. Looked in my garage and no car fuses. Going to try and pick up some tomorrow. I put the whole thing back together and that was a trip in a half! Lol
It’s all back together and I need to play with it on another day. Thanks for the video even if it doesn’t fix mine I’m sure it will help a lot of other people.
I’m still watching this video and looking for energy to even put a fuse in this exact place. It’s going to collect dust meantime I go visit the car wash to use their vac systems! Thanks for the input!
Thanks a lot for doing this video. The way you are so thorough on the testing, of each connection for continuity, is really great!
I used the 30amp car fuse, working great, but i mangled the retaining clip BEFORE i saw the video of how you removed it with the screw driver.
Thanks again!
It was a Bit---h getting that retainer clip off....Hardest part of the entire job.
Thanks a lot for this great video. I had the exact same model and it died as you described. Now my ShopVac works again.
Had the exact same problem and was able to fix it because of your video, thank you so much!
💥 very cool , thanks for watching
THIS VIDEO IS AWESOME !!!! FANTASTIC STRAIGHT TO THE POINT VIDEO. YOU SAVE ME A COUPLE OF 100'S DLLS. thank you for sharing your knowledge I really appreciated. Blessings for you my friend
More that happy to help , I appreciate it, glad it worked for you, cheers
I bought the SF119E SEFUSE SF119E Thermal Fuse /Thermal Cut Out from the link you had in your reply. It was $6.09 for 3 pcs. & free 2 day shipping with Amazon Prime. I wrapped the fuse leads around the coil wires close to the terminals and then soldered them as well. I was worried that the heat of the soldering process would blow the fuse, but it didn't. I checked for continuity before reassembling the motor to the housings to make sure it was still good. It was and the Shop-Vac is now working & still thermal protected thanks to the $2 fuse you suggested. Thanks for the video!
Awesome , glad it worked out for you. Thanks for watching 🙏🍻
WARNING FIRE HAZARD. As the author of the video pointed out in the commrnts. It is dangerous and a fire hazard to replace the thermal fuse with a car fuse. This should have been emphasized in the video. DO NOT REPLACE THE THERMAL FUSE WITH A REGULAR CAR FUSE. IT IS A FIRE HAZARD. Next time the motor overheats it could go on fire.
Replace the thermal fuse with a comparable or same amp or heat rating as the original.
Yes on the fuse, if you're going to test. The motor rating is on the side of the case. I'd go an amp or 2 lower, 20 amp and above could cause some breaker tripping and fire. Good video though.
Thanks for the info. I fixed my Shop Vac model 86MT600C today. I had the exact same thing wrong with mine.
Just had my shop vac die. Found your video and it turns out my shop vac's fuse also needs replacing. Thanks!
I fixed my shop vac today with that 20 cent fix. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching I appreciate it 🍻
Thank you Sr. You are the best.
Thanks for the idea. I soldered in a 15 amp fuse for my 11amp motor and it works great now. 😉
Thanks for watching 🍻
Excellent demonstration. Very well explained.
Great demonstration, would not have thought of the fuse.
Thanks for watching
I'm a retired construction electrician. Watched your video. I just dismantled my own shop vac. I hate the one time Thermal Fuses. They should have an external access to replace it. Most consumers just toss their appliance and buy a new one. What a waste because of a .25 cent Thermal Fuse.
Some appliances have a auto reset Thermal zfuse. Once the motor cools down it resets. Most don't. They are buried within the motor coils and not accessible unless taken apart. Fans are the worst. A 30 to 40 dollar fan thermal fuse costs abot 8 to 10 cents. But you buy just one. You have to order 5 to a thousand minimal at a cost of 30 to 100 dolars. To pay an elrctrician to repair it would be another 50 to 100 dollars. So these appliances end up being tossed because of this cheap thermal fuse. What a waste and expense to the consumer. It is a fire hazard to bypass the thermal fuse so the appliance is useless. An external access or reset could be installed but then yhe companies would not sell as many of their products. Its all about sales money and profits. Fleecing the consumers selling and knowing these Thermal fuses once burned out are too costly to replace.
This is a pet peeve of mine. LOTS of consumer appliances have these one time thermal fuses. And they are never easy to access. But if you can get to them and think about how to externalize them, you can make them easily replaceable. The manufacturers could make them plug in and accessible from the outside but they don’t. They are almost always soldered or crimped in. I wire them up on the outside of the device to be easily replaceable with blade connectors. You have to rig a way to cover the live 110 volts if you bring it to the outside! Or you could do it in such a way as to only need to remove one panel or cover and put it on the inside. I have salvaged numerous appliances by changing the thermal fuses.
I used a steel rule over the base to pry the retaining ring. If its slack just gently tap it out with a hammer and small blunt tool. Have to try your suggestion , mine is the same stopped working.
Many thanks for the walk through Fix. Great video. Cheers
Thanks for watching 🍻
Very informative video. Very thorough test. This helped a lot. Thank you very much.
Thanks glad I could help , thanks for watching 🍻
Thanks so much! I tried your fuse idea and it worked! Now I just have to hope it is a low enough amperage to blow in the event of a power surge ; )
Glad to hear it worked out for you ! Thanks for watching, I appreciate appreciate it🍻
You are awesome! thanks so much for the well explained trouble shooting
Thanks for watching I appreciate it
Great video! I found a 128 degree Celsius thermal fuse on Amazn for about $4.50. My plan is to solder it across the top of the two leads at the top of my bad thermal overload on my Shop-Vac. If it blows again during normal use, I probably won't fix it again. A friend had borrowed my 25 year old Shop-Vac for a wet pickup and I did not have the foam sleeve installed. I think some water got sucked up through the impeller and caused the thermal protection to activate. He felt bad and offered to buy a new unit but I felt that I could fix it. Thanks to you I can. I had pinpointed the issue to the yellow block because my multimeter readings show an open there but all I could do is scratch my head. I never considered that device to be a thermal device.
Solder method sounds like a great idea and it seems like you are in the right path to a successful repair! Thanks for watching
@@ATEMOFFROAD It's not worth the risk of a fire plus I already bought a new vac. So if this one works, I'll keep it in the garage and use the new one for the car and stuff.
@@IceAgeSquirrel2008 my vac is still running strong and I use it very often! Keep in mind you have protection up steam of the circuit as well! But yes there is always a possibility of fire! In any situation!
Brother you are genius! Thank you for the video
Thanks buddy I so appreciate it!! Sub to me
Excellent work. I like finding trash worth repairing. Just found a shop vac that looks almost new and I would bet it has the same problem. Great help to see someone diagnose one first. I will like and subscribe.
I’m the same way. People throw so much away. Thanks for watching 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD
An update I thought you might appreciate. Unfortunately I found that the shop vac didn't have an overload or fuse or anything protecting the motor. So I was like dang, must be the motor windings so it is probably junk. At this point I shift to do what I call an autopsy where I disassemble it to look for the failure and assess the likely cause of failure. I did find a winding without continuity and part of the motor casing was sloppily glued together with the glue clearly having been worn by the motor shaft. Then I thought, I wonder if I could repair the winding. I hadn't tried before but I was already there. So I unwound the coil, found the break about a quarter of the way down. I cleaned the coating off the wire ends, made a tiny twist and soldered it together and coated it with super glue. Then I rewound the coil, soldered the end back to the lead. I doubted it would work 5 minutes but it was like an experiment. I removed the sloppy glue and was reassembling when I was trying to repress a motor bearing into a plastic case the bearing shattered. I was about to start throwing the thing around the garage but I took a breath and said ok I'll leave it here and maybe think of something. It occurred to me that bearing looked like the exact same size I had seen in skateboard wheels so today I grabbed a little scooter I found being thrown out a few days ago and sure enough the bearing in the wheel was a perfect fit for the motor. I finished reassembling it adding a little 15amp blade fuse I had and sure enough it seems to work great. Component level repairs are always the most satisfying and I'm genuinely surprised it worked.
Well done! Great video.
@Tom Jones 💥 nice, thanks for watching! Cheers!
Very thorough, excellent job.
Thank you for watching 🍻
you are one smart guy great video
Interesting! A useful video. I just wish you would have told us what meter setting you were using. I'm thinking "ohms"? You are just looking for continuity, correct? Also, for those who don't have a meter with audible/beep for continuity, please explain what to look for on the meter. Other than that, a very good video. Thank you for it.
Mark Williams yes these are all ohmmeter test. Hence the Vac was not plugged in. I do mention continuity test through -out video. Thank you
Thanks man, Very helpfull and Informative video.
Thanks for watching
Got a hold of a tossed out DeWalt shop vac. Plugged it in, and a short Bzzzzz! I want to try and open the motor portion and check for heavy junk. Thank you
Good luck and thanks for watching 🍻
Useful thanks.
Genius at work! Nice job!
🙏🍻
I'm just going with the car fuse part....works fine. Thanks...
Thank you for that video. Fixed mine with a 15amp. Wonderful!!
Awesome , thanks for watching 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD how did you learn this just trial and error?
😅 troubleshooting look it up. That's what you just watched.@@JeffRigney
Great video, thank you! My neighbor recently gave me a shop-vac that won't start, I'm betting this is the problem.
This was very helpful thank you.
🍻
Bro! Company replaced a continuity beeper with a dog wistle!!!😂
🤣🤣
Great video! Thanks
Thank you 🍻
Damn! A living exhibition of smart.
@Steph Fong 💥 nice, I really appreciate it! Thanks for watching
Great video bro I was able to repair my vac😅
Thanks!
Thanks for watching
Thanks! You just saved me $80!
Nice bro, cos of guys like u i make money. So many screws and parts to just get to the emgine, would be diff for me to get it together again lol.
Rens Nierden nice you can always become a patreon, cheers buddy
VERY THERALL DESCRIPTION IT WORKED 30 AMP FUSE THANKS
Thanks for watching 🍻
ty i just fixed my shop vac i put a 30AMP CAR FUSE IN seems to be working awsome
🎉what 😮filters go on the little red shop vac
🤷♂️😂🍻
you are a genius
Thanks for watching
Do you apply soldering in fuse?
Dude, I wish you had shown how you reassembled the motor heat sensor with your jury rig on it.
This worked mine is a 5.0hp motor I did a 10am fuse idk if I dint get something exactly right but it got super hot the motor smoked a little maybe I have bigger issues idk what to think now
You stated that you used the car fuse for test purposes only. Others seem to have kept the fuse in permanently. I'm assuming that creates a fire hazard if the vac overloads/heats up, correct? Did you replace your 30A fuse with the exact replacement thermal fuse? If so, what is the part number for the thermal fuse and where did you order it from?
That’s correct for testing purposes only. There used to be a website if you googled your part number the fuse would pop up. I no longer see it. Best bet is to call the manufacturer and ask for a replacement part usually you’ll get the entire motor. essentially this is what it is, but I’m unaware of your vacuum as yours can be different than mine. 🍻 amzn.to/4ahwfSQ.
@@ATEMOFFROAD Thanks! I believe I have the same Shop-Vac as in your video. Model 84M200, 5 gallon, 2.0HP. Interestingly enough, I found a discussion where someone had fixed Shop-Vac's with the same issue. He too used a 121C, 10A, 250V axial leaded fuse as well (Thermodisc G4A01121C). How did you attach the fuse to the plastic block and make the electrical connection? Did you attach it in a similar fashion as you did the 30A fuse?
Thanks. I suspect the fuse is shot on our vac. My only question is what caused the fuse to blow?
Thanks a lot! You are great!
You could just bypass that part or if you must use a fuse put lug connectors on and then plug them into the auto fuse or just get an inline auto fuse holder.
coondogtheman1234 💥 nice , thanks for watching. I just replaced with original part, this was mainly to show my viewers troubleshooting methods and testing purposes, but you have a good idea there, cheers!
@@ATEMOFFROAD I replaced part with 30amp fuse and got continuity still not working,what is original part
Clock wise rotation or counter clockwise. I got the same but only a black and white no green no wires where on it but it goes counter right now but the fan on motor tells me it's wrong I think.
Great video. I was using my vacuum the other day, then all of sudden, the motor running slow-ed down, and then stopped. After that, I was not able to have it restarted. What could be the reason for such failure ? Thanks.
The same thing happened to me today.
I got the same problem with mine…seems pretty common…thx
🍻
Hi there . I have a Shop.Vac Series L wet / dry 2.5 gal. Well the entire unit went dead & I noticed the power cord was a little frayed next to it's cord protector. I plugged the vac back in & jiggled the neck of the cord only to have it spark & expel a small amount of smoke (ha ha). Can it be the cord has to be cut back a little ? I don't have access to yer device that checks the live or dead currants. What do ya think ?
super duper always replace a power cord that is damaged, would be. Good start . Thanks for watching
Perfectly timed video mate as my shop vac, similar model, has just died. I'm going to follow all the troubleshooting explained here, hopefully I get this fixed. Question about your fix, did you soldered the 30 ams fuse to the terminals or did you order a replacement part? I live in a small town at northern Mexico, so getting the replacement part will be very hard/expensive, so I would like to follow another approach, as soldering a fuse, if that is what you have done Thanks!!
Thanks for watching I soldered the wire to the yellow component became it came loose. As far as the fuse I just pressed it in tightly to make the jump across the terminals. Still works and I use the vacuum everyday no problems. My only advice is when you remove the pump fan blade Be especially careful when removing the retaining clip, of you damage it you may have to drill the shaft and install a roll pin to retain it. I had to do that. Again thanks for watching.
@@ATEMOFFROAD I know nothing about motors or electronics, but found a multimeter in my tools box and was able to replicate all your very clear steps. My issue is different, as I've good conductivity all across the thermal protection and cabling. But the centre rotating axis was very very dirty, and one of the carbon brushes seems to be burnt (I did notice weird smell days ago). I cleaned up as much as I can, and turned it on, and it worked, kind of, it didn't rotate continuously, but it improved after sanding the burnt brush. I might need to buy a new one. And in regards the retaining clip, my vacuum model is different, it has a lock nut so it was easy to remove and put back. Hope is I find the right carbon brush and get it back as new. Thank you again for the video and for your immediate response. I just noticed that I've watched your channel in multitude times in the past, so now I'm subscribing!!
Try taking some plain steel wool and sanding the copper with the steel wool. That SHOULD help. If one of the brushes is shorter than the other, it could be because a foreign body got into the armature and got wedged between the brush and the armature wearing away the one side. Lightly sanding the copper area where the brushes contact will help smooth it out and help give a better contact point...
@@ATEMOFFROAD these retainers are called star lock washers or push nuts. Replacements are readily available, measure the size of the shaft with a caliper to get the right size. They remove easily if you know the trick…
If you can get hold of them, rotate and pull gently. They will come right off! If you pull only, they will lock on tighter and not budge. They often hold plastic wheels on lawnmowers, grills, trash cans and so on. Some are open and some have a closed cap.
i have a wd19560 wetvac that starts but shuts off 5secs i think it has the same issue any ideas
Hi, sorry what fuse do you recommend to do this repair?
He used a 30amp car blade fuse.
Hi my shopvac when I turn it on will work however, after a few minutes you can smell a burning scent. If I replace the filter, and add a bag will the problem dissipate or is it too late to salvage the motor?
A burning smell is most likely the brushing on the shaft of the armature or end of motor take apart and check the brushes first
Anyone have a link to the actual thermal fuse replacement?
How about tell multimeter setting?
Hello, great video. Im going to start to desemble mines. My wife accidently wet the top and turned it on and then died. any thoughts on what it might be?
Francisco Maldonado check the fuse
If water got inside and there was. A Major short check circuit and or fuse..
my experience with the shop vac some dont come apart like others...i took mine apart and greased the bearings ..i know that is not a cure...but it look to me like a cure would be more trouble than it is worth. you can buy a new vac under 100 $...so i lube mine and i have a theory..i am going to try to run mine in short sessions a few minutes at a time and turn off wait a few minutes and repeat. the bottom line i dont think the bearings are the best and made to wear out after so many hours ..5 minutes and let cool. i will let you guys know how this works for me. use it like a hair dryer.
james warren i see that you haven’t subscribed? I think you have the right idea. If you do end up taking it apart you will notice that there are no roller bearings. rather than . oil impregnated bushings on a hardened polished shaft.... drop of 3 in 1 oil usually takes care of the problem.. cheers!
I just fixed mine. Cost= two 608-2rsh bearings at $10 each and an hour of my life.
The brass bushing on top of motor is useless, replaced with a bearing which is a perfect fit in the housing btw.
7:40 how did you get this tab back on? I found this video extremely helpful for fixing my shop vac, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to get the impeller fitted back on with that tab so that it is tight and doesn't come loose.
When I removed the impeller there seemed to be some kind of glue on the shaft initially when press fit, but when I reinstalled mine it pressed back on tightly with a couple soft strikes with a hammer, I’ve seen shops use an 1/8” or smaller roll pin about 3/4” in length long to hold in place. The roll pin idea is a superior fix in my opinion. And can easily be removed as well, but I believe what that tab is called is an internal toothlock washer, which is used to retain the impeller on the shaft. If yours doesn’t bite any more you’ll have to replace it. You can buy those washers in a pack at harbor freight I’ve seen them there before but not sure if the right size is in the pack may be a good place to check. I’ll be interested in what you come up with.
Check these out amzn.to/3PNfsx1
Thanks so much for the reply, I could not find the term for what that was called no matter how I looked so thank you for that. After a ton of tries I was able to bend it back to being relatively flat on top and then hammered it in place to a degree that I was satisfied with how tight it was.
I think it might be good enough, but I had one or two times when it seemed tight and it came loose while running it. If I have to replace it I will likely be picking up a kit like that and report back on which one worked
@@Whimsicat_ sounds good glad to help. 🍻
Starlock washers, internal tooth washers, push nuts. Those are names for these things. The shaft on my Shopvac was 5/16”. These are used on lots of consumer products. They grab and lock tighter if you try to pull them off. But they slide off readily if you rotate them while pulling gently. That’s how I got mine off the Shopvac. The closed capped ones are easier to grab than the washer type.
In your video, once you had found the root cause in the motor, did you have it replaced with a new part ?
Chun Ji yes I ordered and replaced the part with oem
Where did you order the part from and what is the part #?Thanks!
Where, indeed can one find this part? I have a nearly identical model with this issue.
The Shop Vac I ordered has a different energy motor! The motor functioned as a blower not as a sucker! So, I returned it!
Blow is just an expression.
@@armadillotoe Is blower = sucker, ha??
Lol it does both. Theres an entrance and an exit
30-amp fuse?! You might as well just jump the two terminals together! If you plug that into a circuit with a 15, or even a 20-amp breaker, the breaker is going to blow first.
Your right, Did I not mention this was for testing purposes only?
@@ATEMOFFROAD I must've missed that, but thanks for reiterating, for the benefit of others.
@@donf3739 thanks for the watching 🍻
yeah, screw that.. helloooo Amazon 😂
🙌👏🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD good to see a sense of humor.
too many people running around butt hurt these days. greetings from Houston Texas
I use the size 1 and 1/0 Mustad hooks to freeline for snook ruclips.net/user/postUgkxzXmlErSqVAEGWFEKO530BvTqFDw53QW3 and they have been fantastic. The points are super sharp, and the hook is small enough to blend with my baitfish, yet large enough to land fish 30" or more. I also use these hooks when I'm pier or surf fishing with my kids. They tend to catch tons of smaller snapper, whiting, and catfish, and we get far fewer gut hooks with these Mustad in-lines, which means more of them survive after release. I was actually using these hooks when I caught my friend too, but I think that had more to do with the bait I was using ;-)
Isn't a 30 amp car fuse kind of high? Wouldn't a 15 amp fuse be better since the vac is designed to be used with a 15 amp circuit in the house? Did you try to correlate the temperature at which your fuse blows to the amps drawn?
Bob C yes you are right fuses are a different animal than CBs you can go smaller if the fuse can handle the current inrush, and you will still have protection from the up stream CB, no I did not size anything for permanent use, please understand this was for testing purposes 0nly, the original part was replaced with OE parts.. thanks for watching
@@ATEMOFFROAD I understand. Mine has the same problem, but I can't find OEM fusible links like those anywhere. In the interest of the thought process behind a possible repair (it kills me to think that I might just have to trash it) strategy... I see that these motors have class B winding insulation which is rated at 130°C. I can get an inline thermal fuse from somewhere like Grainger and get one rated below that. Because of where that part is located, it seems to be protection for the motor windings anyway. Otherwise, a fuse for overcurrent protection would be inline with the A/C power cord.
Bob C you are on the right track!! the up stream cb will protect for overcurrent , not thermal overload , this is why you can have a larger rated CB protection as long as you have thermal OVLD protection between the source and the load!! In other words the fuse has worked for many many uses, but I do not advocate any reliability!! Good luck and Cheers!
@@ATEMOFFROAD right. I meant that the purpose of the thermal fuse is primarily to protect the windings from overheating, melting the insulation, and shorting out the field.
For. Acompres0r m0tofmaster2gal power switch d0ntwork can it. Bereplace
I agree
30 amps? Might as well hardwire it because you can't get more than 20 out of the wall, plus the component doesn't even look like a fuse. If you do want to put one in for safety use a 10 or 15 max because this thing should only pull about 8.
30 was for testing , thanks for sharing and watching 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Just fixed a tiny 1 gallon after watching and it had the same exact problem, that bit melted after about 10-15 min continuous use. Plastic broke so ended up soldering flat pieces together. 👍 If I see a “dead” one at the curb it’s mine.
@@karmaduq nice save! imagine how many vacuums go to waste because of this simple problem! I really like people like you 👊 Cheers buddy 🍻
I had one for 20 years i bought another in jan. 2021 the switch wont work i smelled burnt rubber smell just before it went out took it back to lowes 30 day return policy is that pretty much it 80bucks down the drain???😢😢😢😢😢😢what to do
This all happened today
The newer stuff today is just not holding up! I wouldn’t even know where to start to help you get it fixed, hoping maybe this video can help you out! Thanks for watching! Cheers
Great video - but PLEASE invest in a tripod. I'm getting seasick over here.
Hahah I know right , it’s an older video, thanks for watching
For the money he's saved us all, we should create a go fund me page so he can buy more stuff.
11:20 thermal fuse failed
She is using the wet filter for dry.
Traducamelo en español
Si como no ahorita
Yo no se
Yo hablo englise
You obviously did not have a screen or bag in this vac or you wouldn’t get all that crap inside the motor.
Please do not do this!!!. This is how electrical fires start that end up burning your house down!
This is NOT what to do here! Jumping it with a 30 amp fuse is the worst idea I’ve seen yet.
Your house circuit breakers are either 15 amp or 20 amp if you upgraded. By putting a 30 amp fuse in this unit, it will overheat and cause a fire before it trips the breaker in the house fuse panel.
This vac should have a rating of 3amp to possibly a 5 amp fuse on the vac.
If that were to keep tripping, it is a problem with the motor itself. I’m guessing it’s from all that debris that was inside the motor from not having the proper filter or shop vac bag being used.
There is no way that much hard debris would get that deep into the motor causing it to overheat and popping the internal fuse or thermal switch.
This video is a how I troubleshoot and repaired my shop vac! I used that fuse for testing purposes ONLY and I mentioned that in the video @ 12:12 and that I only advocate replacing this part with an exact replacement nothing els is acceptable period! The fuse regardless of the size was used for testing purposes only!
Also you are right when i did get the vac it did not have a screen or bag so that Could definitely be what caused the debri to get inside no doubt about that! But I don’t think it’s what caused the safeties to blow! As you can see in the video there was no mechanical failure, hair could have caused a slight obstruction in the pump but I don’t think that it alone caused the safeties to blow, rather a combination of events!
I believe the main cause was
1 ) running beyond the duty cycle without cooling!
2) obstruction in the vacuum hose causing the the motor to work harder and overheat!
3) allowing the bucket to over fill
Thanks for watching
Oh yeah , specialty bolts too so they average person can't take it apart
🤣
Not specialty bolts. Any big box store or auto parts store sells torx bits.
Very cool👍
Thank you!!!❤️😁 Saved me 💲💲💲
Thanks so much!
Suze' in yuma
Too much work bro I'll go buy a new one. But thanks
No problem & good luck , sub to me , thanks
Thanks for the info! I will pay you back with some grammar education! Avoid double negatives! Never say, "it doesn't work no more". Replace with - It doesn't work "anymore".
🤣 that’s fair, right arm 🍻
Ur wife is using the wrong filter
After watching this video.. the solution is to just go buy a new one
😂😂 aw come on it wasn’t that bad to fix
Too much work I found a good one for $ 15 on Facebook market
Haha 👍🏼 nice thanks for watching