Didn't really think that much about temps when tightening chains before but I will now. I watched a lot of your videos in the past and learned a lot. You're a wizard.
Hey Don!!! Thanks for showing me the “proper” way to do it. I always had a kind of idea and heard a few different ways but now I know the correct method! Cheers!!!!
@@donyboy73 I love how Professional you explain your videos. No cussing and jumping around like others do. Your Definitely the best on here. I’m retired now but still love watching your videos, I guess it stays in the blood, lol. I’m in Southern California. I know your videos have helped many from making big mistakes. Thank you & God Bless.
Watch my other video on chain tension here; ruclips.net/video/7s6Bq2YXsrw/видео.html Watch my video on sharpening a chainsaw by hand here; ruclips.net/video/Rbqa8Cn2p64/видео.html When should I replace my bar? ruclips.net/video/0Lin8WqzFJs/видео.html
Great video guys. I pick my friend's dad's brain every time I see him (he's a small engine mechanic) and learned a few more chainsaw tips from this video. Cheers
I first viewed this video on my mobile device, and then viewed it again on my computer. Such a great video! I especially like the interactions between Dave and Donny...they are excellent. The give and take, the questioning, the solid responses from Donny make these types of videos so interesting and informative. I did notice how the apprentice slid the saw toward Donny, just the way Donny did to Dave several episodes ago to diagnose a problematic Stihl chainsaw. That was priceless! I laughed out loud!! The friendship these two have developed is clearly seen in the videos, and I'm so glad I'm learning from the information presented. Wonderful! Keep it up, guys. Great information!
Thanks for sharing Don. I’m new to chainsawing and I didn’t know this.
3 года назад+3
Oh, I remember when started working with chainsaw. The biggest problem was with chain: correct size, number of drive links, proper sharpening, proper tensioning, and so on. Now it's a way simpler. 😊
Amazing Intel thank you for posting this Video. I’ve been using a Stihl for decades and never thought about temperature affects on Steel and the Chain Tension I’ve just adjusted as needed.. stay safe my friends Semper Fidelis
Find any difference in tensioning on longer vs shorter bars ? Would love a chain size/type/full house/skiptooth/etc breakdown, changing/choosing/matching drive sprocket size to accommodate different chains etc... from you guys too ! Its always good to refresh on some of the more "basic" things ! thanks for all the videos !
Great info. I just found a chainsaw down the street and got it working. But I'm new it this and I think I'll freak out if I use it thinking the chain will snap on me. I don't know maybe to many movies 😅
Two other reasons to adjust your saw with the bar up. 1: the sight line on the saw body will be correct. 2) it is less likely for the the chain and bar to hit dirt when you set the saw down.
Great content as always guys. Wish one of my friends tuned in to your workshop videos. He brought his powersaw to me saying it wouldn't run and it was smoking when he ran it. Spotted the issue immediately. Chain adjusted way to right and the wrong way round !!!!. It had overheated and melted the whole plastic clutch housing and wrecked the sprocket and clutch. His powersaw ended up as scrap !!!
Would have benefitted from this video on Friday. I guess my chain got too loose, came off the track and snapped the chain catcher. Now I need a new chain catcher and a new chain.
Hi Dony, I am a chainsaw operator. Have been for over 40 years. I can not explain how to adjust the tension on the chain. I just know, well, I think I know. If I am cutting and the chain is hot, not warm but hot. Something is wrong. The chain should run just warm. You should be able to grab the chain with bare fingers with no discomfort. Reasons the chain would run hot. Most common, dull chain and excessive force on the bar to make it cut. Too tight of chain adjustment can cause excessive heat and third the lack of bar oil delivered to the bar. Thanks for the videos. I enjoy your channel and I am still learning. Chainsaw training is a must if you plan on working with a chainsaw.
never adjust a dull chain. if its dull sharpen it pull the bar off, clean out the rail groove, grease the nose roller, grease the clutch bearing(if applicable) then reassemble and adjust. clean the air filter fresh gas and oil. that 10 minutes of pm is worth it. i'm still running my .028 super i bought in 1985 proof !!!
Excellent video, guys! I like how you put the science behind everything. So many guys have such complicated theories about chain tension, and you made it very simple! 👍
Not sure if this makes sense but another thought with holding the bar up while tensioning. if the chain is slightly tighter when the bar is up then if you tension with the bar down and it moves up while you cut it would increase the tension? maybe too much?
That might be OK for a home owner but if you we’re like me & had 15 to 20 Crews working & they needed different size saws, do you think they would do that ? All my men were professionals & always pulled on it to make sure it was adjusted right. Plus, another thing Donyboy didn’t touch on, after your final tightening of the bar nuts ALWAYS tighten the adjuster screw, it helps the chain from becoming loose. I would like to hear if anyone else does this ? Specially Donyboy??
@@tedskipper9530 that is great for an 025', but not so much with the small stil like I have the bar has one little bolt holds the adjuster and it's on the bar with one tiny screw
Hey Don, I learned a lot from your videos, how to properly maintain and repair a chainsaw! But what is the cause of a Lean Mixture In the combustion chamber and the resulting engine damage, is it just too little oil in the petrol or can a wrong adjustment of the carburettor also cause this?
OLD MAN at EP: Don another great video with your apprentice. Have a challenge for Dave: just watched a Steve Rob review on a Stihl MS170 where he wants to change the oil lub hose but has issues with disassembly due to plastic plug removal to access. Would make a great video on how to disassemble for repair! You guys are likely the most knowledgeable on the Stihl chainsaws!
What you do not want is a chain that can come off a bar at 12,000 rpms. If I err and I surely do from time to time, is for the chain to come off, so I usually set them up cold a little tight because they will loosen up as they get warm. What you do not want to do is leave them tight, because as they cool down they will tighten up. You do not cut wood with a banjo. This is one reason why I clean my saws after each use and by then the bar will shorten up and I will get the chain tension pretty close. Tight chains can also ruin seals if you leave them with a tight chain for a long period of time. I check the chain tension of the chain during the saws warm up period before use. If the chain is bouncing off the bottom of the bar I will tighten it up a bit. Conversely, if I cannot lift it up at least a quarter of an inch off the bar at the midpoint I will loose it before use. You ought to do a video on how hard to tighten bar nuts. I see saws all the time that have the bar nuts way to tight which can cause broken or stripped bar studs.
Good information thanks for sharing. Hey Don or Dave what do you guys think about the newer Briggs & Stratton like 6.5 engines that claim just add oil you never have to change it. I don't know to me it sounds like they want to have their consumers make disposable units? I however will change my oil not just continually add. What are your thoughts?
Do you guys adjust you chain oil viscosity based on ambient cutting temps? Is there a temp threshold for when you need to go thinner or thicker? Or does cutting warm up the oil reservoir so no thinning is needed in colder cutting conditions?
This a little more advanced, but with experience, you can tell if your chain is to tight or loose just by listening to the friction of the chain against the bar. You my want to see if you can capture the difference on video
What causes irregular chain tension around the bar? Another words, if I rotate chain by hand a little after setting tension it becomes loose and then tighter as it rotates. Bent shaft?
Easiest way to stretch a chain, run it to tight, also ruins your bar. A little loose is good just slightly. Why do they put the up and down slop in the bar? Great conversation thank you 🙏
@@donyboy73 Dony, can you please touch on some of my suggestions. I’m retired now after over 50 years. I love how you explain, not jumping all over the place like most. Great Videos.
@@donyboy73 Dony, I was in a hurry yesterday. The suggestions are what I said on tightening the bar nuts, oil on new chain, tightening adjustment screw after bar nuts were tight. I know you have a lot to answer so if you can’t find my suggestions I’ll rewrite when I get home today. Be Blessed
Great video thank you!! Tension is big topic! I recall, a long time ago, I became "unable to sharpen my chain properly..." I tried various angles etc. more research etc. No Luck. No woodchips, just sawdust! New chains would work for a while, then more sawdust!! Asking advice etc. still no luck... - - I took me far too long to realize my "chainsaw file" was simply "worn out" -too dull! :-) A new "chainsaw file" fixed everything! :-)
@donyboy73 ...Thank you for the Great Info.: You've confirmed certain adjustment methods I've been doing for many years, but, I Always had that "Nagging Feeling" of; Am I doing this correctly...Or not? Cheer's!
I agree and disagree at the same time. I have adjusted my saws the same way for nigh Ipoh to 40 years. I was taught to pick up the chain t the mid point of the bar. If I could pick it up a quarter of an inch at the mid point it is sufficiently tight. I never tighten a warm chain. I leave a warm chain a little loose and tighten it up the next morning. Also, when I put a saw in storage condition I loose the chain a few turns. On a well broken in bar and chain I want the chain to slide pretty easily around the bar. Basically, I do the Stihl method. - I snug the chain to the bottom of the bar, lift the end of the bar and re- snug the chain to the bottom of the bar and tighten the nuts at the same time. I then rotate the chain on the bar to see how easily it moves on the bar. It is hard to describe what is to loose and what is to tight, but I know both. Husqvarna saws and Stihl saws also tighten differently.
OK, I pretty much knew that, possibly from your previous video, or somewhere else, but a good review. Speaking of refueling, and filling the oil, I've always just used what was cheapest. What type of oil would you recommend? Would there be a different oil to use in summer, as opposed to winter? Thanks, you are awesome!!!
I have a much smaller amount of chainsaw time compared to you gentlemen, but I have seen my chain stretch on a cold morning after a little bit of time of bucking.
Great information! If you’re bar has a burnt blue color around the edge it’s too tight or not enough oil/no oil. If you run a newer non adjustable carb saw will it adjust to different altitudes?
Hey Brad - I believe the new MTronic carburetors have a series of sensors that make real time adjustments based on the sensor input at that time - so yes, it should work great in whatever altitude you are at. With that said, the saw “remembers” your last settings so if you make a drastic change in altitude, I would suggest doing the reset procedure in the manual so the saw knows how to react. Cheers!!!
Hey Don something else she might mention is if the chain is too tight you won’t be able to roll the chain by hand and I’ve always tighten mine up to the point where I can still roll the chain by hand if I can’t roll it at least two full polls on the chain without it binding and I loosen back up
Got a new electric chainsaw with a hand knob to adjust the chain tension. Tightened the handle to the max but the chain is still way to slack. How would I go about to fix that?
I just bought a new bar for my stil I've been running chainsaws for years and haven't ever had problems, but this saw is an easy pull (I'm 63 yrs old) and the only way to add just the chain is a tiny gear the size of the bar that has a 2 point v shaped adjuster held on by a tiny i mean Tiny screw. The outside adjuster has never worked so I have to take off the cover and adjust it by hand Today it slung the chain after 3 cuts off s 4" log
I bought a used 066 with a 36 inch bar. The bar and chain is difficult to get on the chainsaw. This is also my first time useing a chainsaw this big. The bigger you get in saws, is it harder to put the bar and chain back on? Can you make a video about this.
After I quit using my saw I back off the chain and leave it loose, then remove cover and clean once home and adjust when I’m fixing to fire it up 😊😊😊 just me
Great tips Dony and Dave! I was wondering if you have ever done a video on safety apparel and equipment to use while operating a chainsaw? Happy Easter to you and your families. 🇺🇸👍Roger
I've seen some people use chainsaws that there is about an inch gap without anyone pulling on the chain. Death trap waiting to happen, but people really don't know this information for some reason. I try to tell them, once even just adjusted the tension for them because I was afraid for these people.
Another thing Donyboy didn’t hit on. Once you get the Bar nuts Snug, Pushing down on the bar, the final tightening should always Tighten the back Nut first then the front one. The reason, as your tightening the nuts the bar will become straight and will cause the chain to be to tight. Plus, don’t start with a new chain dry. Put some oil on the bar. Another reason to not run your saw with the Chain loose it will cause the nose to where out quickly. Sorry but I’m in a hurry going to the Country Club with my family for Easter Lunch. Happy Easter & God Bless. Be Safe.
Good to know, the man at the husqvarna dealer told me I had to run husqvarna gas oil mix and nothing else, go figure. I use my smaller stihl more then my larger husky and the gas for the husky ends up getting tossed after a month of sitting. Appreciate you taking the time out of your day to answer my question, Thanks.
Hey Guns! We did a video a month or two back on this very subject - except it was Echo oil I believe. It’s all the same as long as it’s a quality reputable brand!
If you ask 3 different arborists how tight the chain should be, you will get 3 different answers. I like mine at the half inch mark or a tiny bit tighter. I dont want that thing jumping the bar. That is a good way to get stitches... One thing I always do with a new chain, is after the chain is warm and it stretches, I will adjust it and keep cutting but when Im done for the day I loosen it back up and let it cool loose.. That way there is no guess work.. You should always clean your machine after the day anyway and doing so you would know your chain is not going to hurt the powerhead. But there is a lot of hold my beer morons out there and thats why we have tags on blow dryers saying "Dont use in shower"...
Yes, this is why chain tension is important. Motorcycles or chain saws, chains can come off if too loose. And don't twist the bar while cutting, this can cause the chain to catch on something like brush or smaller wood. Keep the bar straight always.
Thumbs up. Thanks for posting. We apparently got it backwards when explaining why you have to adjust with the bar up or why not adjust when down. We said if you do that then you will find it will loosen up again in a very short time, That was like at 9:20 in the video. I think we should make a rule, no coffee for Dave on video days. Be real youtube, be sober.
There are also so many variables on chain tension. New bar, new chain, rim verses spur sprocket. Most of my saws have rim sprockets and in adjust them for a chain tension feel slightly differently than I do a spur sprocket saw. Rim sprockets do not rotate as easily on the bar as a spur sprocket. The chain on my ms 181 will fly around the bar when I rotate it by hand with a folded shop towel. I just adjusted the chain on my ms 360 and it rotates on the bar but it will not fly around the bar, like the one on the 181. The chain on my 36 inch MS660 will also rotate pretty easily, but nothing like that on the 181. Most of this is due to the cutting time on the bar and chain and whether they have ever got in dirt or not. I use the 20 inch MS 360 for bucking big stuff, so it occasionally gets in dirt or sand which abrades the bar and chain making the more difficult to rotate, easily. The 181 only cuts wood, so it never gets in dirt. Bars and chains, like saws, have to be broken in and it will take several cutting sessions to break both in.
Didn't really think that much about temps when tightening chains before but I will now. I watched a lot of your videos in the past and learned a lot. You're a wizard.
I always adjust the oil pump on my Stihl 310, to maximum flow, when running in a new chain.
Hey Don!!! Thanks for showing me the “proper” way to do it. I always had a kind of idea and heard a few different ways but now I know the correct method! Cheers!!!!
you're welcome buddy!
@@donyboy73 I love how Professional you explain your videos. No cussing and jumping around like others do. Your Definitely the best on here. I’m retired now but still love watching your videos, I guess it stays in the blood, lol. I’m in Southern California. I know your videos have helped many from making big mistakes. Thank you & God Bless.
@@tedskipper9530 thanks Ted
Watch my other video on chain tension here;
ruclips.net/video/7s6Bq2YXsrw/видео.html
Watch my video on sharpening a chainsaw by hand here;
ruclips.net/video/Rbqa8Cn2p64/видео.html
When should I replace my bar?
ruclips.net/video/0Lin8WqzFJs/видео.html
That was excellent Donyboy73. Your depth of knowledge is amazing!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video guys. I pick my friend's dad's brain every time I see him (he's a small engine mechanic) and learned a few more chainsaw tips from this video. Cheers
thanks dave for asking the questions
No problem!
Thanks for going over this. Easy to do, but kinda critical as well. Thanks again Dave and Don.
Thanks Carl!
Thanks guys. Great lessons. I am enjoying these videos a lot.
Glad you like them Bruce! Have a great day today and hopefully the yt paperwork wasn't too complicated lol
I first viewed this video on my mobile device, and then viewed it again on my computer. Such a great video! I especially like the interactions between Dave and Donny...they are excellent. The give and take, the questioning, the solid responses from Donny make these types of videos so interesting and informative. I did notice how the apprentice slid the saw toward Donny, just the way Donny did to Dave several episodes ago to diagnose a problematic Stihl chainsaw. That was priceless! I laughed out loud!! The friendship these two have developed is clearly seen in the videos, and I'm so glad I'm learning from the information presented. Wonderful! Keep it up, guys. Great information!
thanks!
we try to have a sense of humor!
Thanks for sharing Don. I’m new to chainsawing and I didn’t know this.
Oh, I remember when started working with chainsaw. The biggest problem was with chain: correct size, number of drive links, proper sharpening, proper tensioning, and so on. Now it's a way simpler. 😊
Amazing Intel thank you for posting this Video. I’ve been using a Stihl for decades and never thought about temperature affects on Steel and the Chain Tension I’ve just adjusted as needed.. stay safe my friends Semper Fidelis
Great video and tips guys. Happy Easter to you and your families. God Bless!
Same to you!
Thanks Nash!!!
I sense a lot of tension in the room🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hahaha nice one!
Hey guys. Thank you for such helpful videos yourll post. Keep up the excellent work. Regards from South Africa
Find any difference in tensioning on longer vs shorter bars ?
Would love a chain size/type/full house/skiptooth/etc breakdown, changing/choosing/matching drive sprocket size to accommodate different chains etc... from you guys too ! Its always good to refresh on some of the more "basic" things !
thanks for all the videos !
we will!
Once again, I love the way you two work together on these videos!! Really good video!!👍🌟
Glad you like them!
Thanks Michael! Glad to see you back.
Great info. I just found a chainsaw down the street and got it working. But I'm new it this and I think I'll freak out if I use it thinking the chain will snap on me. I don't know maybe to many movies 😅
Two other reasons to adjust your saw with the bar up. 1: the sight line on the saw body will be correct. 2) it is less likely for the the chain and bar to hit dirt when you set the saw down.
Good call!
Happy resurrection day Dave & Don! Thanks for the video
Same to you!
Cheers Fill!
Great content as always guys. Wish one of my friends tuned in to your workshop videos. He brought his powersaw to me saying it wouldn't run and it was smoking when he ran it. Spotted the issue immediately. Chain adjusted way to right and the wrong way round !!!!. It had overheated and melted the whole plastic clutch housing and wrecked the sprocket and clutch. His powersaw ended up as scrap !!!
Excellent information guys. Thanks for making this video.
very informative. Thank you brother 👍
Another great video, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Would have benefitted from this video on Friday. I guess my chain got too loose, came off the track and snapped the chain catcher. Now I need a new chain catcher and a new chain.
Hi Dony, I am a chainsaw operator. Have been for over 40 years. I can not explain how to adjust the tension on the chain. I just know, well, I think I know. If I am cutting and the chain is hot, not warm but hot. Something is wrong. The chain should run just warm. You should be able to grab the chain with bare fingers with no discomfort. Reasons the chain would run hot. Most common, dull chain and excessive force on the bar to make it cut. Too tight of chain adjustment can cause excessive heat and third the lack of bar oil delivered to the bar. Thanks for the videos. I enjoy your channel and I am still learning. Chainsaw training is a must if you plan on working with a chainsaw.
That’s awesome Green! Glad to hear from someone with so much experience. I appreciate it!
thanks!
I clean my saws at the end of the day, compressed air etc, refuel and reoil at the start of the day. Easiest way I've found.
Good stuff!
never adjust a dull chain. if its dull sharpen it pull the bar off, clean out the rail groove, grease the nose roller, grease the clutch bearing(if applicable) then reassemble and adjust. clean the air filter fresh gas and oil. that 10 minutes of pm is worth it. i'm still running my .028 super i bought in 1985 proof !!!
Good questions. I wondered about this myself.
Excellent video, guys! I like how you put the science behind everything. So many guys have such complicated theories about chain tension, and you made it very simple! 👍
yes it's very simple!
Thank you!
Thank you for sharing
He Dave and Don! How often should I grease the needle bearing thats behind the clutch drum?
Not sure if this makes sense but another thought with holding the bar up while tensioning. if the chain is slightly tighter when the bar is up then if you tension with the bar down and it moves up while you cut it would increase the tension? maybe too much?
When sparks fly from the roller nose, you done good!
That might be OK for a home owner but if you we’re like me & had 15 to 20 Crews working & they needed different size saws, do you think they would do that ? All my men were professionals & always pulled on it to make sure it was adjusted right. Plus, another thing Donyboy didn’t touch on, after your final tightening of the bar nuts ALWAYS tighten the adjuster screw, it helps the chain from becoming loose. I would like to hear if anyone else does this ? Specially Donyboy??
Cyphrr, please explain???
@@tedskipper9530 Can you not get a joke? Jeezus kryst.
good sense of humor buddy!
@@tedskipper9530 that is great for an 025', but not so much with the small stil like I have the bar has one little bolt holds the adjuster and it's on the bar with one tiny screw
Hey Don,
I learned a lot from your videos, how to properly maintain and repair a chainsaw!
But what is the cause of a Lean Mixture In the combustion chamber and the resulting engine damage, is it just too little oil in the petrol or can a wrong adjustment of the carburettor also cause this?
OLD MAN at EP: Don another great video with your apprentice. Have a challenge for Dave: just watched a Steve Rob review on a Stihl MS170 where he wants to change the oil lub hose but has issues with disassembly due to plastic plug removal to access. Would make a great video on how to disassemble for repair! You guys are likely the most knowledgeable on the Stihl chainsaws!
Good format. Good info.
Thanks Arnold!
What you do not want is a chain that can come off a bar at 12,000 rpms. If I err and I surely do from time to time, is for the chain to come off, so I usually set them up cold a little tight because they will loosen up as they get warm. What you do not want to do is leave them tight, because as they cool down they will tighten up. You do not cut wood with a banjo. This is one reason why I clean my saws after each use and by then the bar will shorten up and I will get the chain tension pretty close. Tight chains can also ruin seals if you leave them with a tight chain for a long period of time.
I check the chain tension of the chain during the saws warm up period before use. If the chain is bouncing off the bottom of the bar I will tighten it up a bit. Conversely, if I cannot lift it up at least a quarter of an inch off the bar at the midpoint I will loose it before use.
You ought to do a video on how hard to tighten bar nuts. I see saws all the time that have the bar nuts way to tight which can cause broken or stripped bar studs.
A lot of people will just back off the chain tension when they're done cutting to avoid the issues you mention with the chain contracting as it cools.
As always as usual another great tip
Thank you! Cheers!
@@donyboy73 you are so welcome
Good information thanks for sharing. Hey Don or Dave what do you guys think about the newer Briggs & Stratton like 6.5 engines that claim just add oil you never have to change it. I don't know to me it sounds like they want to have their consumers make disposable units? I however will change my oil not just continually add. What are your thoughts?
keep changing the oil George!
Must also consider the bar length. Thank you.
Thanks Bill!
How long do you keep, your fuel after you mix,the fuel that's not put in your chainsaw?.
Do you guys adjust you chain oil viscosity based on ambient cutting temps? Is there a temp threshold for when you need to go thinner or thicker? Or does cutting warm up the oil reservoir so no thinning is needed in colder cutting conditions?
Hey Dave, Don has always told me, winter bar oil in winter, summer in summer. I’m not sure of the exact science, maybe Don knows?
This a little more advanced, but with experience, you can tell if your chain is to tight or loose just by listening to the friction of the chain against the bar. You my want to see if you can capture the difference on video
What causes irregular chain tension around the bar? Another words, if I rotate chain by hand a little after setting tension it becomes loose and then tighter as it rotates. Bent shaft?
Easiest way to stretch a chain, run it to tight, also ruins your bar. A little loose is good just slightly.
Why do they put the up and down slop in the bar?
Great conversation thank you 🙏
Thanks again Don.
You are very welcome
Great tips thanks ! Happy Easter 🐰
Thanks Guys Great info
Thanks for watching!
@@donyboy73 Dony, can you please touch on some of my suggestions. I’m retired now after over 50 years. I love how you explain, not jumping all over the place like most. Great Videos.
@@tedskipper9530 what are your suggestions Ted?
@@donyboy73 Dony, I was in a hurry yesterday. The suggestions are what I said on tightening the bar nuts, oil on new chain, tightening adjustment screw after bar nuts were tight. I know you have a lot to answer so if you can’t find my suggestions I’ll rewrite when I get home today. Be Blessed
So if you check tension hot there will be more than 1/2 inch slack if the expansion/contraction is that significant?
Great info ..as you usually give us !
Thanks for watching!
Hey guys I found this pre- mixed fuel at Lowes that is good for 40:1 and 50:1. Is it any good? And if it is how is it possible?
How tight should i tighten the bar nuts?
Great video thank you!! Tension is big topic! I recall, a long time ago, I became "unable to sharpen my chain properly..." I tried various angles etc. more research etc. No Luck. No woodchips, just sawdust! New chains would work for a while, then more sawdust!! Asking advice etc. still no luck... - - I took me far too long to realize my "chainsaw file" was simply "worn out" -too dull! :-) A new "chainsaw file" fixed everything! :-)
Great point!
always loosen the chain when you finish cutting and you wont need a crystal ball for chain tentioning
@donyboy73 ...Thank you for the Great Info.: You've confirmed certain adjustment methods I've been doing for many years, but, I Always had that "Nagging Feeling" of; Am I doing this correctly...Or not? Cheer's!
Excellent!
Awesome news!
I agree and disagree at the same time. I have adjusted my saws the same way for nigh Ipoh to 40 years. I was taught to pick up the chain t the mid point of the bar. If I could pick it up a quarter of an inch at the mid point it is sufficiently tight. I never tighten a warm chain. I leave a warm chain a little loose and tighten it up the next morning. Also, when I put a saw in storage condition I loose the chain a few turns. On a well broken in bar and chain I want the chain to slide pretty easily around the bar. Basically, I do the Stihl method. - I snug the chain to the bottom of the bar, lift the end of the bar and re- snug the chain to the bottom of the bar and tighten the nuts at the same time. I then rotate the chain on the bar to see how easily it moves on the bar. It is hard to describe what is to loose and what is to tight, but I know both. Husqvarna saws and Stihl saws also tighten differently.
OK, I pretty much knew that, possibly from your previous video, or somewhere else, but a good review. Speaking of refueling, and filling the oil, I've always just used what was cheapest. What type of oil would you recommend? Would there be a different oil to use in summer, as opposed to winter? Thanks, you are awesome!!!
i try and stick with reputable oil brands, and yes you should use winter oil in winter and summer in summer
@@donyboy73 Ok, Thank you!
I have a much smaller amount of chainsaw time compared to you gentlemen, but I have seen my chain stretch on a cold morning after a little bit of time of bucking.
Great information! If you’re bar has a burnt blue color around the edge it’s too tight or not enough oil/no oil.
If you run a newer non adjustable carb saw will it adjust to different altitudes?
The Stihl M-Tronic and Husqvarna Auto-Tune carburetors will automatically adjust for fuel, air quality and elevation.
Hey Brad - I believe the new MTronic carburetors have a series of sensors that make real time adjustments based on the sensor input at that time - so yes, it should work great in whatever altitude you are at. With that said, the saw “remembers” your last settings so if you make a drastic change in altitude, I would suggest doing the reset procedure in the manual so the saw knows how to react. Cheers!!!
Hey Don something else she might mention is if the chain is too tight you won’t be able to roll the chain by hand and I’ve always tighten mine up to the point where I can still roll the chain by hand if I can’t roll it at least two full polls on the chain without it binding and I loosen back up
good point!
Good advice guys.
Cheers!
Got a new electric chainsaw with a hand knob to adjust the chain tension. Tightened the handle to the max but the chain is still way to slack. How would I go about to fix that?
maybe your chain is streched
@@donyboy73 thanks for the reply, I just watched your video about that, will have to open it up and see what makes it tick 🦾⛓🪚
My chain never gets hot. And rarely needs adjustment. I use full synthetic Castrol Edge 0W-40 in my MS660 with 36” bar. 👍 Happy Easter 🐣
Wow, that’s an awesome saw!!!!
Thanks. 56mm piston too. Amsoil in the gas. 👍
@@bombadeer8231 Amsoil saber?
Would you use the same procedure if you are doing a lot of bucking which would push your bar down?
yes
Good post guys.
Is it a good practice to reduce the tension on your chain during storage?
if you live in a cold climate maybe but if it's adjusted properly it shouldn't matter
Do you prefer the snap on soft instinct or hard handle screwdrivers?
I prefer the harder handles, easier to clean
I just bought a new bar for my stil I've been running chainsaws for years and haven't ever had problems, but this saw is an easy pull (I'm 63 yrs old) and the only way to add just the chain is a tiny gear the size of the bar that has a 2 point v shaped adjuster held on by a tiny i mean Tiny screw. The outside adjuster has never worked so I have to take off the cover and adjust it by hand
Today it slung the chain after 3 cuts off s 4" log
WOW, I never liked that setup
@@donyboy73 I do t either, but I have to have an easy start
I bought a used 066 with a 36 inch bar. The bar and chain is difficult to get on the chainsaw. This is also my first time useing a chainsaw this big. The bigger you get in saws, is it harder to put the bar and chain back on? Can you make a video about this.
yes it's a little more cumbersome
Thank you!!!
Cheers!
Well done guys! Happy Easter..the only dumb question is the one you don't ask.
We agree fully - that’s what these videos are all about!
@@DavesSmallEngines I definitely appreciate them, always good to learn tips and tricks. Thanks again
What are we preventing by tightening the chain? Or what happens when the chain is loose?
it prevents the chain from coming off the bar
@@donyboy73 Yikes!!
So the chain catcher by the sprocket is there to prevent injury from that issue?? Mine is broken on the Stihl 261-cm
Happy Easter!
Same to you!
Thank you.
have a good day Bill!
Muito bom 😃Show 👏👍👊
Teryl can give you advice anytime you need it.
After I quit using my saw I back off the chain and leave it loose, then remove cover and clean once home and adjust when I’m fixing to fire it up 😊😊😊 just me
Great tips Dony and Dave! I was wondering if you have ever done a video on safety apparel and equipment to use while operating a chainsaw? Happy Easter to you and your families. 🇺🇸👍Roger
Hey Roger! It’s in the works!
@@DavesSmallEngines sounds great Dave!
Not yet!
I've seen some people use chainsaws that there is about an inch gap without anyone pulling on the chain. Death trap waiting to happen, but people really don't know this information for some reason. I try to tell them, once even just adjusted the tension for them because I was afraid for these people.
yes it's scary!
Hi I have a question why my exmark turf tracer takes longer to start after get hot
check valve adjustment
Another thing Donyboy didn’t hit on. Once you get the Bar nuts Snug, Pushing down on the bar, the final tightening should always Tighten the back Nut first then the front one. The reason, as your tightening the nuts the bar will become straight and will cause the chain to be to tight. Plus, don’t start with a new chain dry. Put some oil on the bar. Another reason to not run your saw with the Chain loose it will cause the nose to where out quickly. Sorry but I’m in a hurry going to the Country Club with my family for Easter Lunch. Happy Easter & God Bless. Be Safe.
Can I use Husqvarna oil gas mix in stihl chainsaws or stihl oil gas mix in husqvarna chainsaws? Thanks
Yes you can!
Good to know, the man at the husqvarna dealer told me I had to run husqvarna gas oil mix and nothing else, go figure. I use my smaller stihl more then my larger husky and the gas for the husky ends up getting tossed after a month of sitting. Appreciate you taking the time out of your day to answer my question, Thanks.
Hey Guns! We did a video a month or two back on this very subject - except it was Echo oil I believe. It’s all the same as long as it’s a quality reputable brand!
hi donyboy73 from scotland what do you think is the best chain oregon or stihl for hard wood
I think Stihl might be slightly better
Have a look at Project Farm. He did some testing of chainsaw chains.
If you ask 3 different arborists how tight the chain should be, you will get 3 different answers. I like mine at the half inch mark or a tiny bit tighter. I dont want that thing jumping the bar. That is a good way to get stitches... One thing I always do with a new chain, is after the chain is warm and it stretches, I will adjust it and keep cutting but when Im done for the day I loosen it back up and let it cool loose.. That way there is no guess work.. You should always clean your machine after the day anyway and doing so you would know your chain is not going to hurt the powerhead. But there is a lot of hold my beer morons out there and thats why we have tags on blow dryers saying "Dont use in shower"...
A dime thickness used to gap between drive link and bar in middle of bar, ? After chain has been used :)
How long should I warm up my saw before going to a cut? Without hurting the saw?
at least 30 seconds
2-3 minutes. at close to idle
Them brand new chains do love to stretch
always!
I do because I'm in Ontario Canada we do get cold winters
same here
just saw your other comment on generator video, Dave and I will make a video on that so stay tuned!
Is it possible to throw a chain and is it possible to fly off while using it?
Yep especially in brush thats why you habe gloves and a wire mesh visor!
Yes, this is why chain tension is important. Motorcycles or chain saws, chains can come off if too loose. And don't twist the bar while cutting, this can cause the chain to catch on something like brush or smaller wood. Keep the bar straight always.
-40 degrees Celcius IS -40 Fahrenheit ...it's the number that both scales overlap
Donyboy I have problems with MS 660.Why it too hard pull very heavy.
make sure the decompressor is working
@@donyboy73 Thanks !Have a good day !
can you show an example of a worn out chain that needs to be replaced?
Stihl 291 or husqarna 545 mark 2 ?
Tough call!!!
@@DavesSmallEngines what do you think ?
Thumbs up. Thanks for posting.
We apparently got it backwards when explaining why you have to adjust with the bar up or why not adjust when down. We said if you do that then you will find it will loosen up again in a very short time, That was like at 9:20 in the video.
I think we should make a rule, no coffee for Dave on video days.
Be real youtube, be sober.
Don -40C and -40F are identical temps. It is the one degree that they are the same.
Greetings from Belgium
greeting from Canada, merci!
There are also so many variables on chain tension. New bar, new chain, rim verses spur sprocket. Most of my saws have rim sprockets and in adjust them for a chain tension feel slightly differently than I do a spur sprocket saw. Rim sprockets do not rotate as easily on the bar as a spur sprocket. The chain on my ms 181 will fly around the bar when I rotate it by hand with a folded shop towel. I just adjusted the chain on my ms 360 and it rotates on the bar but it will not fly around the bar, like the one on the 181. The chain on my 36 inch MS660 will also rotate pretty easily, but nothing like that on the 181. Most of this is due to the cutting time on the bar and chain and whether they have ever got in dirt or not. I use the 20 inch MS 360 for bucking big stuff, so it occasionally gets in dirt or sand which abrades the bar and chain making the more difficult to rotate, easily. The 181 only cuts wood, so it never gets in dirt. Bars and chains, like saws, have to be broken in and it will take several cutting sessions to break both in.