This was a super handy video. Thanks for taking the time to film it. I appreciated the step by step instructions, and the torque specs. The bottom ball joint on my 07 Accord gave me a fit. I ended up using a floor jack (with a piece of 2”x2” wood) to push upward on two lug nuts while compressing the suspension. I used a sledge hammer to hit a piece of metal rod against the lower A-arm, and the ball joint finally broke loose.
Great video, got it done. I bought the whole knuckle assembly with wheel bearing already pressed in with bottom ball joint. I think it was easier and no hydraulic press to worry about. 3 nuts and axe nut and ABS and brake line bolts. Watching video helped greatly, Thank you!
Nice demo! It's taken me a few years to understand how these old style pressed-in wheel bearings go together. The reason the bearing consistently breaks apart in two pieces is because the snap ring prevents the outer race of the bearing from coming off when you press out the hub. The snap ring is shielded by the rim of the hub, so you can't remove it, or even see the snap ring until the hub is removed. So, after a few years the inner race ends up being seized on the shaft of the hub, and the weakest link ends up being the bearing cage. You did a great job getting the inner race off the hub with the Dremel. I've seen other guys use a torch to expand the inner race, causing it to fall off without using the dremel. One day I'll try that.
its not hard. juat have to take it slow and understand what each step is doing. and of course if you have the specialty tools make it a million times easier
thank you very much. wheel bearing kits are possible. i just done enough bearings to invest into a press lol. but yes yu can just rent the wheel bearing kit from your parts store. this way you save money
harbor freight. they also have tool rentals at auto stores. its kit with a big bolt/nut and different size barrels that you can remove/install bearing that dont use a press like i am.
Where did you place your jack stands? Manual says to use the spot behind the front wheels (where the scissor jack would go) but my floor jack wont lift up the car high enough that I can put stands there at a good height. Thanks!
i put the stands on whereever there is the subframe mounted. this was my brothers car car so i dont remember exactly what it was placed on but i know minimum it was the subrame that attaches to the body of the car or the frame rail.
@@joey8340 if money is not a factor then yes for sure. If its only one specific. Then you can get away with juts front or backs. If really on a budget, then only the one making noise
if you could afford it then i would say yes. but it all depends on would you mind working a little more to save money or just the eaiest swap available
@@hyr0llr Hadn't thought of that! That's one issue solved, however there's one more issue. Because of the hub, I don't have a straight enough angle to hit those Phillips screws holding the shield on. They're also extremely rusty. Any recommendations with that?
@@gerardomartinez9863 thank you. was working fine from the video publish date until the car got rear ended and totaled lol So 10/10 rating in that time period.
Its borderline a little more instrusive then most jobs. But also in this video i used a press, which not everyone has. They have a bearing puller/installer kit at the parts store to rent that the same job can be done. Im not sure why i used the press in the video. But it is possible with that other kit. Its essentially a big bolt/nut plate kit to remove and install a bearing.
www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-drive-bearing-remover-and-installer-kit-21-piece-63728.html?campaignid=12144811130&adsetid=117789288158&product=63728&store=450&gclid=CjwKCAjwgZCoBhBnEiwAz35RwingP_bBfZZPcz15JNA32p9lX61J-7LJByKnqIsRry_YG32r4vfsuhoCEwQQAvD_BwE This is the kit to buy at harbor frieght, but like i said, you can possibly rent it from the parts store for free.
Everything looks relatively easy to me except when you get to replace the bearing. I, unfortunately, do not have the luxury of a hydraulic press. Therefore, what do you suggest as the next best option?
i forgot to say this in the video but you can rent a wheel bearing replacement kit from the parts store. a little harder to do but possible. give me one second to get you a picture for reference.
If your bearings get bad enough you'll find your wheel rolling past your car one day. me amd the guys always joke when someone wants to wait or they don't wanna pay for it that they better start wearing a helmet while driving. It's not always fatal but if your going highway speeds you might end up in a grave.. just a friendly warning if your accord is 150k miles or so on stock bearings change them asap!
@@floopynoops1336 I happen to know quite a bit about cars. I removed the wheel in question the previous owner said was the problem, in fact removed them all. No noise and no play so bearings are all fine, problem is with ABS sensor only. Car is inspected, brakes work really well. FYI, unlike say an old timing belt which can give way any second without warning, worn wheel bearings will grind and present play in the wheel, and I disagree, as long as there are no leaks are loss of grease wheel bearings can often go on for the life of the car.
@@robbflynn4325 They wear over time and should be treated like any other bearing. If you are replacing suspension components then you might as well get the bearing done too. You go over that 150,000 mile mark you're risking more damage to other suspension components. You're also risking your safety because that wheel can potentially come off lol.
@@trevorstewart4778 Bearings are housed in a sealed unit and only usually fail prematurely because the lubricating agent leaks out, for example, from a tear in a CV axle boot, and when they do fail it is obvious because it will be accompanied by a grinding, clunking or knocking sound from the area in question, which is the metal on metal sound. So what you are suggesting is all owners of cars with 150,000 miles or more should have all of the bearings in their vehicle replaced, even though there is no obvious noise just in case they fail? You talk absolute nonsense and obviously know nothing about maintaining or working on cars, or how they work.
![NoCap - Maliboo [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FUV7E0QyniU/mqdefault.jpg)
This was a super handy video. Thanks for taking the time to film it. I appreciated the step by step instructions, and the torque specs.
The bottom ball joint on my 07 Accord gave me a fit. I ended up using a floor jack (with a piece of 2”x2” wood) to push upward on two lug nuts while compressing the suspension. I used a sledge hammer to hit a piece of metal rod against the lower A-arm, and the ball joint finally broke loose.
You are not alone with a difficult ball joint...and I had it apart a week ago.
Great video, got it done. I bought the whole knuckle assembly with wheel bearing already pressed in with bottom ball joint. I think it was easier and no hydraulic press to worry about. 3 nuts and axe nut and ABS and brake line bolts. Watching video helped greatly, Thank you!
Great to hear. Yeah if budget allows, its easier to do it all together. Cheers on your repair
I would have replaced that lower ball joint with that torn boot while you had it off. It will probably fail soon...
Nice demo! It's taken me a few years to understand how these old style pressed-in wheel bearings go together. The reason the bearing consistently breaks apart in two pieces is because the snap ring prevents the outer race of the bearing from coming off when you press out the hub. The snap ring is shielded by the rim of the hub, so you can't remove it, or even see the snap ring until the hub is removed. So, after a few years the inner race ends up being seized on the shaft of the hub, and the weakest link ends up being the bearing cage. You did a great job getting the inner race off the hub with the Dremel. I've seen other guys use a torch to expand the inner race, causing it to fall off without using the dremel. One day I'll try that.
😅 💊😮 on 😅😅
Thanks for putting the torque specs!
Thanks. I like your use of fast forward.
You make look easy but I know it is not. Excellent video. Ty for posting
its not hard. juat have to take it slow and understand what each step is doing. and of course if you have the specialty tools make it a million times easier
thanks for the feedback
Thank you this is what I needed...
no problem. goodluck on your repair
Great tutorial! Thank you
your welcome. Hope it goes smooth for you.
Nice.....Great Info, appreciate it.
thank you. good luck on your repair
Muy Buena informacion
Great video 👍👍👍👍👍
Thank yu for the feedback
Thanks for the tutorial!
thank you for the feedback.
Thanks, Rolando!!!
Thank you!
i did this on a 2016 honda accord sport and now i’m driving with a bunch of lights on my dashboard. do you have any idea why this might of happened ?
was the abs installed on the correct side?
Maybe the abs was not connected properly
Good video. Was curious if this job is possible with wheel bearing kits or is a press needed?
thank you very much. wheel bearing kits are possible. i just done enough bearings to invest into a press lol. but yes yu can just rent the wheel bearing kit from your parts store. this way you save money
Where did you get the tool to press the wheel bearing out
harbor freight. they also have tool rentals at auto stores. its kit with a big bolt/nut and different size barrels that you can remove/install bearing that dont use a press like i am.
just look up wheel bearing removal kit.
What size is the axel nut ?
looks like my 32mm deep socket. either that or 36mm
7:40 DAD better not leave young lad hangin'...you're needed
What tools do I need to change this part in my car?
A ratchet/socket set. A hammer. And renting a wheel bearing tool kit from any parts store
Where did you place your jack stands? Manual says to use the spot behind the front wheels (where the scissor jack would go) but my floor jack wont lift up the car high enough that I can put stands there at a good height. Thanks!
i put the stands on whereever there is the subframe mounted. this was my brothers car car so i dont remember exactly what it was placed on but i know minimum it was the subrame that attaches to the body of the car or the frame rail.
go to 1:54 and youll see its on the bottom side of the sway bar, so i believe thats the rear side of the subframe. on both sides.
@@hyr0llr thanks a lot man
@@bon_vieira1239 No problem. Hope your project goes smoothly.
@@hyr0llr Will you be my Brother?
hey if i hear humming noise and it’s my wheel bearings should i replace all 4 then ?
Humming usually is the wheel bearing especially if it matches the speed of your car
@@hyr0llr are wheel bearings something that i replace all 4 if i start to hear humming ?
@@joey8340 if money is not a factor then yes for sure. If its only one specific. Then you can get away with juts front or backs. If really on a budget, then only the one making noise
Is it easier to just get the wheel bearing hub assembly so that you don’t have to deal with removing the old bearing?
if you could afford it then i would say yes. but it all depends on would you mind working a little more to save money or just the eaiest swap available
@@hyr0llr thanks! Also do you have a video on replacing a wheel bearing hub assembly on a rear wheel?
@@Eashlo88 i do not have one specifically for this car. but i do have ones for other cars. on my channel ther is one for a VW jetta, and a Scion TC
@@hyr0llr can you share the link please
@@Eashlo88 ruclips.net/video/LujUw6Dhou4/видео.html
Good day! I want to know what is the number of the bearing that is used on a Honda accord 2003 cm4 model. I am trying to find it in amazon
BECK/ARNLEY - 0514229. thats the one i ordered.
@@hyr0llr thanks much and do need to do any cutting on my bearing replacement
@@hyr0llr and I am also finding issues finding an axle for my car, can you assist there
@@dominicwalker2519 hopefully no cutting. maybe just 2 prybars and itll slide off. but if not, yes you have to cut the peice that stays stuck on.
@@dominicwalker2519 www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,2004,accord,2.4l+l4,1425394,drivetrain,cv+axle,2288
Is it possible to replace the brake shield without removing the hub?
Yes but youd have to cut a section off to slide one way out. Because it wraps around the center hub
8:29 for reference
@@hyr0llr Hadn't thought of that! That's one issue solved, however there's one more issue. Because of the hub, I don't have a straight enough angle to hit those Phillips screws holding the shield on. They're also extremely rusty. Any recommendations with that?
@@_RedsTech_ if its rusty bad than youlld need a dremel or grinder. If you think you can get it, try something like this from harbor freight
@@_RedsTech_ www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html?campaignid=12169518939&adsetid=114845782057&product=92630&store=&gclid=CjwKCAjw8ZKmBhArEiwAspcJ7imHAp8c086S9vsPIOznm6HYcZlWQJBx3rCXlCBlGODRKkJKz8smfxoCi3sQAvD_BwE
What’s the torque specs??
For what parts. I apologize i forgot to include them
I am replacing every damn thing that looks bad...get all the birds stoned at same time
With the part number 955-07
harbor freight - part numbers (63728, 63260, 64987). its 112. but on amazon its 65~
I have an '08 Accord. Do you know if I need to remove the dust shield in the back or inside part of the bearing facing the axle? Thanks!
i did remove it to have an area to use to put a support to push the bearing out
@@hyr0llr . Ok. Thanks!
Could you put the data of the parts you changed?
7:19 has the info. Beck and Arnley
@@hyr0llr thanks
@@furia58 you are welcome. Goodluck on the repair.
Great video !! Any update how the parts is working ?
@@gerardomartinez9863 thank you. was working fine from the video publish date until the car got rear ended and totaled lol So 10/10 rating in that time period.
Yea I think I’m gonna leave this for the mechanics. Lol great work though.
Its borderline a little more instrusive then most jobs. But also in this video i used a press, which not everyone has. They have a bearing puller/installer kit at the parts store to rent that the same job can be done. Im not sure why i used the press in the video. But it is possible with that other kit. Its essentially a big bolt/nut plate kit to remove and install a bearing.
www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-drive-bearing-remover-and-installer-kit-21-piece-63728.html?campaignid=12144811130&adsetid=117789288158&product=63728&store=450&gclid=CjwKCAjwgZCoBhBnEiwAz35RwingP_bBfZZPcz15JNA32p9lX61J-7LJByKnqIsRry_YG32r4vfsuhoCEwQQAvD_BwE
This is the kit to buy at harbor frieght, but like i said, you can possibly rent it from the parts store for free.
You guys and your complete lack of rust make me laugh. 😂
A huge benefit on working on cars in cali. Ive had my fair share of working on rusted out cars when i was stationed on the east coast for 6 years lol
Everything looks relatively easy to me except when you get to replace the bearing. I, unfortunately, do not have the luxury of a hydraulic press. Therefore, what do you suggest as the next best option?
Sorry for the late reply but you can rent a wheel bearing press kit from the parts store.
Basically unless you have that pressure press you can't do this... fuck...
i forgot to say this in the video but you can rent a wheel bearing replacement kit from the parts store. a little harder to do but possible. give me one second to get you a picture for reference.
www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-drive-bearing-remover-and-installer-kit-21-pc-63728.html?campaignid=12144811130&adsetid=117789288158&product=63728&store=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpcOTBhCZARIsAEAYLuVQCKEJ2Egg9_Qhrl9dASc8f0lxBFbYyAmxlvqOX4sJVHCD1XgPnwkaAmjNEALw_wcB
It looks like this. just ask your local parts store to see if they have this to rent.
what a pain in the butt, I think I'll live with the ABS light !
If your bearings get bad enough you'll find your wheel rolling past your car one day. me amd the guys always joke when someone wants to wait or they don't wanna pay for it that they better start wearing a helmet while driving. It's not always fatal but if your going highway speeds you might end up in a grave.. just a friendly warning if your accord is 150k miles or so on stock bearings change them asap!
@@floopynoops1336 I happen to know quite a bit about cars. I removed the wheel in question the previous owner said was the problem, in fact removed them all. No noise and no play so bearings are all fine, problem is with ABS sensor only. Car is inspected, brakes work really well. FYI, unlike say an old timing belt which can give way any second without warning, worn wheel bearings will grind and present play in the wheel, and I disagree, as long as there are no leaks are loss of grease wheel bearings can often go on for the life of the car.
@@robbflynn4325 They wear over time and should be treated like any other bearing. If you are replacing suspension components then you might as well get the bearing done too. You go over that 150,000 mile mark you're risking more damage to other suspension components. You're also risking your safety because that wheel can potentially come off lol.
@@trevorstewart4778 Bearings are housed in a sealed unit and only usually fail prematurely because the lubricating agent leaks out, for example, from a tear in a CV axle boot, and when they do fail it is obvious because it will be accompanied by a grinding, clunking or knocking sound from the area in question, which is the metal on metal sound. So what you are suggesting is all owners of cars with 150,000 miles or more should have all of the bearings in their vehicle replaced, even though there is no obvious noise just in case they fail? You talk absolute nonsense and obviously know nothing about maintaining or working on cars, or how they work.
@@robbflynn4325 preventative maintenance you rocket scientist!!!
If ya decide to buy hub/brg. assy. be careful to specify if auto or manual transmission, different splines & nut size.