I appreciate your expertise on ozone. I have a sanitizing and odor removal business and I do just about the same thing as you do. I have machines that put out 50k mg/hr and I run them for about an hour and sometimes I can still smell the odor. Its good to know that I may need to run for 5 hours or two treatments. I use bioesque as my sanitizer although I have read that ozone deactivates the bioesque. I use this as a secondary odor eliminator although it seems I need to look into the fresh wave IAQ. thanks again for all the information.
I have been flipping homes for 30 years and ozone treatments work great. What this video didn't touch on was dealing with a wet basement carpet and pad and removing the awful musty smell from that, but ozone does do that. The instructions below are how I treat basement carpets that are wet and stinky. This is only matters if you have a carpet that's in good condition that's worth keeping and you must resolve the water intrusion issue before treating the carpet, if you don't, the next heavy rain will just flood the carpet again. There are a few things you need, a POWERFUL carpet drying fan (the ones shaped like a nautilus shell), an ozone generator, a vacuum and a carpet cleaner / water extractor. 1) Remove everything that you possibly can from the room. 2) Use the carpet cleaner to extract as much water from the carpet as possible. 2A) if the carpet is pretty dried out, vacuum the carpet and use a carpet cleaner to remove stains. 3) Lift the carpet in the center of the SHORTER wall and place the carpet drying fan under not just the carpet, but also under the pad, this will dry both the carpet and the pad. 4) Let the fan run, it may take a few days, the longer the better, the pad MUST be 100% dry. 5) Once it's COMPLETELLY dry, vacuum the carpet again (if there are still stubborn stains, try to shampoo them out again and redry with the fan). 6) If the home is being worked on or is occupied, shut off the HVAC system completely, block all vents and returns in the basement, you don't want the ozone circulating throughout the house, it's not safe to breath. Block the bottom of the basement door with a towel. SEAL the gap between the door and the doorframe with painters' tape, you want to make sure no ozone can enter the rest of the home. 7) Place an ozone generator next to the air inlet of the fan and run them both for at least 12 hours (ozone generators are inexpensive, and you can get one on Amazon). Use a timer to automatically turn off the ozone generator at 12 hours, but not the fan, you want to leave the fan running. 8) Let the room sit for at least 6 hours after the ozone generator turns off before entering the room. 9) Wait a day to see if the odor is gone. If not, repeat the ozone treatment. If the smell is gone, reinstall the carpet on the tack strip. It's IDEAL to do this in a vacant property BEFORE your work crew starts the job. If you had a basement flood in your home, you MUST ensure that the basement is sealed and that the ozone cannot escape the basement it's harmful to people, pets and plants.
Great Video, I am not getting into the OZone biz. But, I have purchased a ozone generator for my vehicle it has not yet arrived. You have great tips, especially to try two treatments along with the humidity level. Guess my question is when doing a treatment in the car how long and do you leave the car running with a/c running?
You have a beautiful soul. Providing this type of content for free can literally change someone's life for the better. Wish there were more people like you out there. Do you typically clean the walls before doing this type of treatment? I'm trying to get the smoke odor out of a 2-2 condo. I was thinking about cleaning as much as I can with some tsp, but the walls have popcorn texture, and won't be very easy to clean. Thanks for sharing!
To do the job properly, all surfaces should be cleaned prior to treatment. But with that said, I never cleaned anything before treating. I mostly did apartments and even on the worst ones, as long as I got ozone saturation by using a lot of ozone, the treatment always worked as long as there wasn't a hidden source.
@@AllAmericanMack thanks! I'll be starting my ozone treatment this weekend. I'm still debating whether or not I should prime with Kilz afterwards, even if the smell disappears. Have you ever had any callbacks from customers months later? Right now it's hot, and ac is running. The room is generally cool. But in the wintertime, when heat runs that might release additional odors, cause by indirect heat reflected off parts of the duct and surrounding drywall. I'm interested to hear your thoughts on that.
Great video! My new home has a chimney and fireplace that was very poorly maintained and has a smoke odor coming into the living room even after a chimney sweep since there is so much creosote up the chimney flue. An ozone treatment in the living room helped (likely neutralizing odor in carpets, walls, etc.), but I was thinking about sealing off the fireplace and running the ozone generator (have a 10000 mg/hr unit) directly in the fireplace for a few hours. Have you ever run ozone directly in a fireplace? Would it damage the unit to run it in such a tight space? What do you think about this approach? Thanks!
No, I've never ran one specifically into a fireplace but see no reason why it why it wouldn't work as long as the source (or maybe even just the bulk of the source) is removed. If I were to do it, I would probably set either a box fan if it would fit or a pivoting fan like a Patton fan (or a cheaper version) at the bottom of the fireplace and the ozone generator on top of it to force the ozone up as high as possible. Just remember that it's a fairly small area and the ozone generator is going to use up the available oxygen pretty quickly so it may be best to not run it for too long, I would probably run it for 1 - 1 1/2 hours and then assess it.
@@AllAmericanMack Thanks for the response! I would definitely hire you if you were in my area! That's a great idea on the pivoting fan. Do you think sealing off the fireplace with a tarp, utilizing only the oxygen in and up the chimney flue to the outside would help concentrate the ozone and get rid of the odor better? Does a really high ozone concentration damage the machine if I run it for an hour or two within a sealed off fireplace?
It would be similar to an ozone chamber like restoration companies use to remediate smoke odor on items that are salvagable from fires. Sealing it off is going to make it a relatively small area, plus you have a good sized machine and with the fan dispersing the ozone properly, I think it's a great strategy. You should be getting an excellent amount if *ozone saturation* (the key to any ozone job) in a short amount of time. It shouldn't hurt the machine to run it in that type of environment, that's what they are made for but it's only going to make ozone as long as there is oxygen available to it. I think as long as enough source is removed, this should work. If after a treatment there is still an odor you can do a second treatment but if the odor still remains, it means there is still too much source. I always tell people ozone will work 100% of the time... as long as the source is removed. Let me know how it works for you.
Thanks for the video! Great info! I am a real estate photographer and I shoot on average 3-5 houses a day and I constantly run into houses that need treatment. I want to start adding this as an add on to my services. For a house that's 2-3000 sqft, do you think one or two would work? Or do you definitely need at least 3?
Yes they can be used in any climate. Ozones half-life *increases* in colder environments so the molecules last longer which in turn means the molecules will last longer before reverting back to oxygen making it somewhat more effective.
Hey Thank you so much for your videos. 🙏🏼 I’m in the process of starting the same service in my city…So I bought the same exact fogging machine and the FreshWaveIAQ, I just now tested it in my apartment. Is it normal to smell off putting at first? I thought it would smell like the ingredients that’s listed. Does it neutralize after a few hours? What did you tell your customers to expect? Thank you for your time.💜
I've never found the ppm to be a factor in material degredation, only prolonged exposure time. It will certainly kill any plants left in treatment areas which is they say you have to be sure to remove the three P's - *people* *pets* and *plants* . Even with high concentrations I've found it easy to quickly strip the smell from the air with a quick fogging.
The point of running out of o2 in the generation of ozone. Would connecting the generator to a continous source of fresh air (sealed from the treating area) be great to for maximzing the ozone coverage over the time of treatment? Say a hose connected to unit, and piped thourgh window?
Wondering which is better between fogging and ozone. We have a log cabin that has a lingering musty smell. The crawl space has been sealed and a dehumidifier is installed. The chimney had a leak but has been sealed, the crown repaired and a cap installed. We also installed HVAC so the air is conditioned now. The musty smell did not go away... I'm guessing spores are in the exposed logs and fabrics???
If all the sources have been identified and corrected, it could be lingering spores. While I have used standalone fogging for lighter duty situations effectively, ozone is the real workhorse and will work every time if the source has been removed. Another option would be cl02 ( chlorine dioxide) because it's more economical than buying an ozone generator and generally more effective than fogging imo. If I just needed something for a one time use, that's what I would get. I believe the cl02 tablets are available at Home Depot or can be ordered online from many different places. If you think you would be needing something for occasional use, it may be better to go ahead and invest in an ozone generator.
hi, we had water leak in the craw space under the home, smells very bad mildew like, was thinking of putting some fans to dry, then using an ozone generator. My concern is whether it damages copper pipes or pvcpipes. Thoughts? Thanks…
As far as I know, ozone doesn't react with copper. As for PVC, it may but would need excessively long exposure time. Just like ozone can react with plastic and rubber if those items are exposed to it for long periods. Lots of ozone for a short period (typically 4-6 hours) is the proper way to treat something rather than smaller amounts for long periods and the National Ozone Association has done tests proving this and that short term ozone saturation won't harm items.
Maybe I missed it, but is there a specific fresh wave IAQ I would want to buy to use in autos? I’ve been using a Maxblaster myself that I purchased in 2016. It still seems to be performing well. I’d like to se something at the end of the treatment that would rid the car of the ozone smell. Thanks!
For this business, the best way to get customers is to go in person and talk to the people that will benefit from this service the most such as auto dealerships, realtors, and property managers at apartments. Just explain how you can help them and offer to do a free job to prove it. That's how I did it.
Great video very informative! I am looking to start an odor removal business and wanted to see if you still find that service to be in high demand. If not, what are some services that you do find in high demand?
I'm a carpet cleaner so floor cleaning whether it's carpet, wood, tile & grout, rugs, LVP, VCT, etc. is always in demand, not to mention upholstery. Odor removal as a standalone buisness can be extremely profitable but it takes a *LOT* of work to make it into a full time business but the upside is that if you can get connected with the right people who can use the service on a continual basis, it will be worth it. I'm referring primarily to realtors who either use you directly or refer you to their clients and apartment managers. Selling it as both odor removal and sanitizing has more potential now than ever before. Used auto dealers is another route but I only had minimal success with it and the money is not as good but I know there are some companies that only do automobiles and are successful at it. Whatever you decide, don't try it for a short time and give up, it took me over a month of visiting property managers to get my first apartment.
Excellent video, thanks! From your experience, does an ozone treatment work on dog urine on carpet? And in what order do you recommend? Clean carpet first or after ozone treatment?
I would recommend cleaning first to remove as much of the urine and urine salts as possible. The problem with urine is the ozone will kill the bacteria that are feeding off of the urine and you'll probably temporarily eliminate the odor but ultimately the odor will return as the bacteria do because the source is still present and the source *has* to be removed. I've had a little better success with dog urine, at least temporarily over cat urine though.
I'm in the odor business. Always work on odors before cleaning. If you clean and the odor doesn't go away, it could get locked in.Bedminster ON-SITE Drapery Care
I like to wait about an hour after the treatment ends to enter with a respirator and yes, it should be aired out. I use box fans and open windows/doors to quickly introduce fresh air in.
@@AllAmericanMack Thanks! Do you just open the doors and set box fans in front of them to pull the air front outside in? I just wanna make sure have no health issues afterwards. Thanks for such a great demonstration :)
I have a 20x25 bare wood garage attached to a home I just bought, it is where they smoked 😝 can I get a ozone machine off Amazon for that area? What do you recommend?
You should charge more considering how long the process takes, Im certified hvac tech so I clean and sanitize HVAC unit blower, drain lines and evaporator coils plus odor treatment. Just started carpet cleaning so I'm about to up my prices again
Yes, ozone will kill just about anything including roaches, bedbugs, etc. but you need to get the concentration high enough. I routinely find dead bugs after a treatment. I did a pizza restaurant once that had a lot of flies while I was setting up. 6 hours later there were dead flies and roaches everywhere.
Ozone does kill both mold and mildew, however, it involves more than just using ozone. I had an a/c leak in my home which soaked the carpet and inside a wall for some time before it was found because it was in an out of the way area. I decided to handle it myself and had to pull carpet, pad, sheetrock, and insulation and found a fair amount of mold on both the subfloor and in the walls. I discarded the affected materials, cleaned the areas with applied several applications of Sporicidin. Once that was done, I ozoned the area to be sure any mold or mold spores that were left would be killed. I'm really trying to say that for mold, ozone is just part of the solution.
@@AllAmericanMack My problem was in my bed room when i wet the carpet 2 times and it stain the wood floor with black patches i have no moisture i replaced the carpet but i haver this smell i used all kinds of mold treatments sprays but the smell keeps coming back , thinking i should buy an ozone machine this is kind of the last resort
The reason I asked about urine is because if there is no moisture and the area has been cleaned, there shouldn't be any odor. But if it was urine, it may have soaked into the wood and cause a lingering odor.
Sir, what do you think about an ozone machine mounted on a pole with a timer, between your house and a chain smoking neighbor, to stop smoke before it enters? Trying to invent something. Ozone around perimeter of a house.
We used an ozone machine in our camper and now it, and everything in it, REEKS strongly, a sweet, acrid chemical bleachy smell that is unbearable. We have aired it out 24/7 with a box fan and open windows, and its still awful. Granted, we ran it for way too long, 8 hours, because it was a borrowed with no smell. How much longer until the ozone smell (or whatever this smell is) goes away? Can you recommend anything? We are scared we are harming ourselves because the leftover smell is giving us headaches. The curtains and blankets smell so, so bad. Would that freshwave ioq help? Where can I buy it? I appreciate your help!
It sounds like a case of over-ozoning where the ozone begins to break down and degrade items in the camper and has accellerated off-gassing. The bad news is that I don't have a good answer to fix the problem. Once things begin to degrade, replacement and/or refinishing of items are the only options that I know of. Even if the camper was aired out constantly, it won't completely stop the smell or off-gassing of the items, at least for some time. I don't think the Freshwave IAQ is the answer because even though it's for odor removal, you will still have a source (off-gassing matetials) that will continue to smell. The best answer I can give would be to give it some time to continue airing out as much as possible, replace as many soft surfaces (curtains, sheets, cushions, etc.) as possible, and maybe run an air purifier with a charcoal filter. If it's still unbearable, you may have to paint/seal/refinish the hard surfaces in it.
Hi Bethany--curious to see how things panned out with your camper. I am currently toying with an ozone machine because we bought a smoker's house. The smell as you describe it is spot on--so sickly sweet and awful, and it makes me feel sick. I got too freaked out to keep using the ozone machine, even though the cigarette smell remained. I did notice that it diminished over several days, and now am back to trying to use it. But I am worried about that sickly smell sticking around. Did yours ever dissipate?
@@AllAmericanMack I used the Enerzen 11,000mg unit for a total of 9 hours over 4 sessions, in a connected kitchen/dining/living room with fans. So far the smokey smell is a bit better, and the sickly ozone smell does seem to fade over time. I think I will keep trying short sessions (1 hour), but by god the smoke smell is stubborn. I am just nervous about overdoing it. We have already washed everything with TSP multiple times and have the BIN ready as a next step.
Ok, I'm going to give you some advice that may help you with your odor issue. First, I'm familiar with the machine you have and imo it's too small to do the job you want it to do. Those may work fine for a car or small area but not large areas. Probably every ozone generator made somewhat overstates their output to some degree. Plus, there are a lot of factors that play into the actual ozone production like temperature and humidity. I'm not trying to put down your machine but I would be shocked if it even put out half of the mg/hr stated even under optimum circumstances. Combine all that with the large area you have and it's going to be a losing battle because your machine simply can't make enough ozone to saturate the area and do a true "shock treatment" which is what it's going to take to eliminate the smoke odor. The key to an effective ozone treatment is ozone saturation and to get that saturation you have to be able to make enough ozone in a given time frame to overcome the working rate and natural depletion rate of the ozone. If you ran it for a total of 9 hours in 4 sessions in that size area, it isn't even coming close to being effective. It will sometimes lessen the odor because there was some interaction between the odor molecules and the ozone but it will never 100% elimimate it. Ozone generators are like most things, the quality is directly proportionate to the cost and there is a reason why people in the odor removal business or fire restoration companies use certain brands. You didn't ask and I'm sure you probably don't want to have to purchase another one but I will say that if you are looking for an ozone generator that will do the job, I would recommend the Maxblaster 20k mg/hr. I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I'm just a user of their equipment but it works and they put out massive amounts of ozone which is what's needed. If you don't want to buy another machine, I would try sectioning off areas with plastic sheeting to maybe 100 - 150 sq/ft and treating each small area seperately with a box fan blowing the ozone up towards the ceiling. Make sure everything is exposed and open all cabinets and drawers. I would run the machine for 5-6 hours in each section, super short durations are not going to be enough. Maybe do just one section like this and see how it works for you. You mention that you don't like the ozone smell so you can buy the Freshwave IAQ Air & Surface spray and use it in a spray bottle to help strip the ozone smell away. After I spray a job there is no detectable ozone smell. Another option would be to look into chlorine dioxide which does the same thing as ozone but it off-gasses from a tablet that you put into water. You need to know how much to use for a given area but I can't be of much help with that because I don't use it. Although I haven't personally checked, I've heard that it's available from Home Depot and amazon and it would be much cheaper than buying a larger ozone generator.
Aa long as the original source of the odor is removed and the treatment is done properly, it's permanent because it destroys the odor molecules so it can't return.
@@AllAmericanMack What do you mean exactly by removing the original source? I live in an apartment which used to be inhabited by a smoker. Would a treatment like this remove the smell permanently, without me having to throw out the carpet and wallpaper?
If the original source isn't removed, it will continue to cause the odor after a treatment. In your situation, technically the walls, ceilings and carpets or floors should be cleaned prior to treatment. However, when I treat apartments, they never want to pay extra for the labor of having all that done so I just ozone them and it has worked 100% of the time. The key is to use a quality ozone machine or machines and saturate the area with ozone. For a smoke odor in an apartment I typically use 4 or 5 ozone generators depending on the size and number of rooms. Basically, each room gets a machine and larger areas get 2 and all my machines are at least 10k mg/hr up to 20k mg/hr. The cheaper machines found on amazon or ebay leave a lot to be desired in terms of efficiency and reliability so I always advise people to steer clear of those. Occasionally I come into contact with someone who says they tried ozone to address an odor issue and it didn't work. Ozone works 100% of the time as long as the source has been removed and there was proper saturation.
Hi, sorry about the delay. I know a single treatment would work as long as it was done properly with enough ozone saturation. However it may need periodic treatments because of the children continually contributing to new odors.
Random question. We had a fireplace issue pop up and we need to run our ozone in a den. There is a Christmas tree in there. Do you think it will hurt the tree?
I'm assuming it is a real tree and although I've never ran an ozone generator with a real tree, I would err on the side of caution since the tree is still "kind of alive" and the oxidation would likely finish it off in my opinion.
No, ozone won't hurt or effect those things, only people, pets and plants need to be moved. Some places actually treat water with ozone to make it safe to drink and there are some ozone machines made to ozone foods.
Hi, sorry for sounding ignorant, but what is in the ULV fogger? I've been trying to research it and see it's used for pests, but you're using it for odor control from the ozone if I understood correctly. Not sure what you're putting in it though. I make nanoparticle colloidal silver, and it's amazing for mold and odors, and can be used in a diffuser, so was thinking it might be more effective if used in this after using the ozone machine.
Oh I see the Freshwave IAQ now. I will need to check the ingredients of it, but I still think the colloidal silver will work just fine, and is completely non-toxic, and can even be nebulized in the lungs directly. For someone like myself, with multiple chemical sensitivities even though the Freshwave says "nontoxic", it still may be something I could have issues with. I need to research to see what the ingredients are, if it says at all. Thanks! Edited to add that I looked at the ingredients, and it does appear to be a safe product for most people. Not sure if I would have issues with it or not. Natural products have still affected me negatively that shouldn't. I'd have to get a small jar of it and see. I see Amazon sells it. The cedarwood and clove might give me problems depending on how concentrated those scents are. The others wouldn't give me problems, but all of them together would most likely be problematic for my friend with asthma. Tea tree oil, and other essential oils can bring on an attack for him immediately. In case anyone else is wondering about the ingredients list: Water, Clove, Lime, Cedarwood, Pine Needle and Anise. Probably fine for most people. I also realize, that unless someone makes their own Colloidal Silver, it would not be cost effective to use it in a fogger, or carpet cleaning machine etc. The machine I use to make it is the Silver Edge. It's a couple hundred bucks, but you recover that quickly by what you make with it. I make half gallon batches at 15ppm, and that alone is worth $50 at a good price if you bought it. Cost me roughly .30 to make it!
I don't use an ozone meter so I'm not really looking for a specific ppm saturation. I do the jobs based more off of experience in what has worked. When I first started, I had a very successful mentor in the business who helped me with the process and what exactly I needed to do to eliminate, and guarantee odor removal. For residential jobs, I'm using 10-15k mg/hr per average room, large rooms or areas, 15-30k mg/hr, and depending on severity, I may put another machine on the hvac and add manual remediation of some areas with my converted shopvac. Run times of 4-6 hours always takes care of the odors and again, that depends in severity. I did a pizza reastaurant and setup 4 machines in the lobby and 4 in the kitchen for 6 hours. As I learned early on, ozone saturation is the key to it working 100% of the time.
Have tried everything to get rid of a lingering odor -- even replacing sub floor. Still, during the summer months, on humid days, the odor (pet dander? Tobacco from previous owners? Attic odors???) comes back with a vengeance. I've tried Prokure (chlorine dioxide), I've tried ozone -- I can't seem to get rid of the dang odor! What am I not thinking of??
@@AllAmericanMack much of the subfloor we replaced had dog urine in it - we replaced the worst parts, and coated the remaining parts with Zinser Binz shelac- based primer. That worked fine for the uric acid smell -- but on every warm humid day, there is a pet-like odor from some other source. Could the attic insulation be harboring tobacco smoke smell?? I have one ozone generator that I've set for 6 hours before (while everyone was gone). Also tried two 10 gram packets if Prokure for 4-6 hours. Neither of them seemed to make a difference. Maybe I wasn't able to generate enough ozone in a shorter period of time??
You certainly handled the subfloor properly with replacement/sealing so I wouldn't think there would be any odor from there. What about the walls? Did you check to see if any urine had migrated into either the sheetrock or studs? I had a customer who purchased a home that had a severe urine odor and wanted me to clean the carpet. I informed him that the problem was well beyond just cleaning the carpet and more than likely wouldn't help much. Sure enough, after a thorough cleaning and deodorizing, the smell was just as bad. In addition to the contaminated subfloor, there was a *lot* of urine soaked into the walls so he needed to seal the affected studs, amd replace the lower sheetrock and molding. One way you may be able to check whether this is either all or part of the problem is to go along the bottom of your walls and mist the baseboards and lower sheetrock with a trigger sprayer of just water and use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm it just a little bit. This will add the heat and humidity needed to activate the urine salts, then give it a good sniff and see if you can locate the odor. Of course this only works if it accesses the urine salts, if they are only inside of the wall it's harder to reach them. I had another job where the customer had a recliner that had been saturated in cat urine (the worst of the worst). She wanted to save the chair but no amount of cleaning could get inside the cushions where all the urine salts were. I injected it with quaternary ammoniums and forced ozone into the cushions but the source was still there and it still stunk. The deal with ozone or cl02 is they will both work 100% of the time as long as two things happen. 1) The source of the odor has to be removed and 2) There has to be enough of the gas to properly oxidize the odor molecules and/or bacteria that are causing the odor. Since you've used both ozone and cl02 already and still odor, either you still have a source of the odor or you didn't use enough of the gas. I would lean towards there is still a source somewhere though. As for the attic insulation holding odor, I'm sure it's possible but I've never ran across that even in heavily smoked in homes. The smoke odor I run into is usually on the walls and ceiling, and in the HVAC system. Proper protocol for smoke odor is cleaning the flooring and washing the walls and ceiling, but honestly, usually a megadose of ozone gets rid of it. I won't be of much help with cl02 because I don't use it so I can't really recommend an amount to use. You didn't mention what kind and size of ozone generator you used, or how large of an area you trated, but that can make a huge difference in effectiveness. You're doing the right things but since there is a lingering odor, it tells me there's still something there *causing* the odor that needs to found and removed. I would keep searching and sniffing to try and locate where the odor is originating from, that's what I do on mystery odor jobs.
@@AllAmericanMack I'll definitely keep on looking for a source -- not sure where to look, but will try the mister/heat-gun approach to see if anything jumps out of dry wall. There sub-floor in the entry-way is the only thing we've not treated, yet -- might be the culprit? The Ozone generator I used is the "OdorStop OS2500UV Professional Grade Ozone Generator" (from Amazon). I've had it run a couple of times for 12 hours (while everyone was out of the house) -- we smelled a good deal of ozone... but the smell eventually returned. Honestly, it smells more like 'stale smoke' than the Uric acid of the dog urine -- but, hard to pinpoint *where* it's coming from. The walls and ceiling were painted just before we moved in (not sure if it was primed.... but probably not). With not much to lose at this point, I ordered a 12 pack of "Big D Odor Control Fogger" from Amazon today (each can supposedly treats 6,000 cubic feet) -- I will try a couple of cans of that (maybe even in the attic?) and see how it goes. There's only 20 square feet of carpet left in the house - on the stairs -- no trace of uric acid there -- the carpet was new when we moved in -- the rest we took out before we replace sub-floor and replaced with wood flooring.
Hopefully the foggers will remediate the odor for you. If there was heavy smoking and the walls were not cleaned and/or primed, smoke odor certainly can begin to leach out from the paint so that's one potential source. I did look up the ozone generator you purchased and it has a very low output at a maximum of 1200 mg/hr. By contrast, I would use 60,000 - 70,000 mg/hr on an average 3 bedroom smokers home. I'm not trying to speak negatively of your machine, just giving you the real numbers needed to do a true shock treatment and it's how I guarantee 100% odor removal. Your machine is capable of true shock treatments, it's just going to take a little more work. After you use the foggers, let me know how it works out as I'm always interested to know which products work and which don't. If they don't work out and you want to try the ozone again, I'll give you some tips to make it much more effective.
Ozone *can* make plastic brittle at extremely high levels for excessively long exposures however many ozone generators have plastic enclosures without problems. The converted Rigid shop vac I have is made from plastic and it has an output of 40k mg/hr and the plastic hasn't gotten brittle.
Ozone is corrosive but only with prolonged exposure. A proper treatment should be no longer than 6 hours which is too short to damage them. The problems come in when people use small ozone generators that do not produce enough ozone and run them for days. Much like rubber, ozone can and will degrade it if exposed for days at a time but not for short periods. The key to proper use is ozone saturation which means generating more ozone in a shorter time frame rather than less ozone for a longer period.
I purchased a cheap ozone machine on Amazon for $69. The ad says 12000 mg/h. Is that believable? Will it deodorize a 1000/sq ft house that has a horrific cat smell?
wow you are really cheap. the reason I was looking into this is I know a guy who has a very successful odor removal business and he charges $0.80 a sqft for 12 hours. So I was thinking of getting into it as well.
Cheap is a relative term though. $300+ for literally a half hour of work is just fine with me. The realtors and property managers here wouldn't pay that kind if money and would be far less likely to refer me if I charged $1600 for a 2000 sq/ft house. Btw, I modeled my prices after a very successful company also.
Can you share with us what kind of marketing you do for this business. I have heard you say in the past that your carpet cleaning business took an awful lot of marketing, what kind of marketing did you do for that as well?
Actually this is what took a lot of marketing, way more than carpet cleaning. For carpet, a website and a google business listing will started generating a base of calls and then I added in some cold calling and social media plus repeats and referrals and that was it. For odor removal, it wasn't as easy. I created a website and google business listing and it pulled a a few one off jobs here and there but the odor removal business tends to get mixed in with carpet cleaning and it's not something very many people specifically look for other than when they need something cleaned. The only marketing that I found effective was targeting the groups of people who could be of most beneficial from the service and be able to provide residual business like realtors, car dealerships and property management, specifically property management. I did some car dealership work but it had it's drawbacks like less money, some do it in-house already, and there were already people in my area servicing some of the larger dealerships for $25 per vehicle while I charged $65 for dealerships. Realtors are also a source but there are a *lot* of realtors out there who are unfamiliar with the whole thing and how well it works and I found getting referrals from them difficult. I feel property management is the best route due to the sheer volume of apartments and rentals and the turnover rate, this is where the bulk of the work comes from. But to get back to your question, I cold called all of the above groups in-person. Auto dealerships just got a quick sales pitch, a business card, and the offer to let me treat a vehicle for free. I found the smaller dealerships were much more likely to use my service. For realtors, I dropped off some marketing material that included a 8x11 plastic sign holder with some company info on it, a business card holder, brochures, and a couple candy jars with my company name on them. They generally had no problem letting me place them in the break rooms. For property management, I tried to talk directly with the manager although that can sometimes be tricky to meet with them since they often manage several locations. I dropped off a folder with an intro letter, brochure, business card, newsletter, and something else that I can't remember, and a candy jar. I gave them a quick 2 minute sales pitch and offered to do a free treatment. Other than that, I mailed out postcards to them about every 6 weeks to keep my name in front of them. Really, that's all I did but it was incredibly time consuming as I spent months doing this. It does take a lot of work and time to build the business. There was a guy in the business in another state who lucked up and was in contact with the owner of 40 something apartment complexes and he was contracted to do every single unit after the tenant moved out so he stayed busy just with that and ideally that would be the way to go. The key is just getting in front of the people who need the service and don't know you are out there. The first apartment complexes I picked up ( 3 of them managed by the same person) used to hire one of the big restoration companies to do odor removal and not only did they charge a lot more than me, they would stick an ozone generator in the apartment for 3 days and call it good and she said it was never odor free when they were done. I could do the job for 1/3 of the price, do it right, and only tie up the unit for about 6 hours. One more thing, I never marketed the service as an "ozone" service, I marketed it as guaranteed odor removal and always explained that it's a multistep process. A lot of people want to know *how* it's done just because they really have no idea how someone removes odors so I would explain the process of using ozone and also why fogging is a necessary part of the treatment and that I have specialized equipment (such as the converted shop vac) to do the job properly and that I was a certified ozone technician. This way I wasn't just a guy with an ozone machine.
I appreciate your expertise on ozone. I have a sanitizing and odor removal business and I do just about the same thing as you do. I have machines that put out 50k mg/hr and I run them for about an hour and sometimes I can still smell the odor. Its good to know that I may need to run for 5 hours or two treatments. I use bioesque as my sanitizer although I have read that ozone deactivates the bioesque. I use this as a secondary odor eliminator although it seems I need to look into the fresh wave IAQ. thanks again for all the information.
Awesome info....I'm a carpet cleaner and looking to get involved in this. Thanks for the knowledge.
Very informative, thank you.
I have been flipping homes for 30 years and ozone treatments work great. What this video didn't touch on was dealing with a wet basement carpet and pad and removing the awful musty smell from that, but ozone does do that.
The instructions below are how I treat basement carpets that are wet and stinky.
This is only matters if you have a carpet that's in good condition that's worth keeping and you must resolve the water intrusion issue before treating the carpet, if you don't, the next heavy rain will just flood the carpet again.
There are a few things you need, a POWERFUL carpet drying fan (the ones shaped like a nautilus shell), an ozone generator, a vacuum and a carpet cleaner / water extractor.
1) Remove everything that you possibly can from the room.
2) Use the carpet cleaner to extract as much water from the carpet as possible.
2A) if the carpet is pretty dried out, vacuum the carpet and use a carpet cleaner to remove stains.
3) Lift the carpet in the center of the SHORTER wall and place the carpet drying fan under not just the carpet, but also under the pad, this will dry both the carpet and the pad.
4) Let the fan run, it may take a few days, the longer the better, the pad MUST be 100% dry.
5) Once it's COMPLETELLY dry, vacuum the carpet again (if there are still stubborn stains, try to shampoo them out again and redry with the fan).
6) If the home is being worked on or is occupied, shut off the HVAC system completely, block all vents and returns in the basement, you don't want the ozone circulating throughout the house, it's not safe to breath. Block the bottom of the basement door with a towel. SEAL the gap between the door and the doorframe with painters' tape, you want to make sure no ozone can enter the rest of the home.
7) Place an ozone generator next to the air inlet of the fan and run them both for at least 12 hours (ozone generators are inexpensive, and you can get one on Amazon). Use a timer to automatically turn off the ozone generator at 12 hours, but not the fan, you want to leave the fan running.
8) Let the room sit for at least 6 hours after the ozone generator turns off before entering the room.
9) Wait a day to see if the odor is gone. If not, repeat the ozone treatment. If the smell is gone, reinstall the carpet on the tack strip.
It's IDEAL to do this in a vacant property BEFORE your work crew starts the job. If you had a basement flood in your home, you MUST ensure that the basement is sealed and that the ozone cannot escape the basement it's harmful to people, pets and plants.
Wow that's awesome
Great Video, I am not getting into the OZone biz. But, I have purchased a ozone generator for my vehicle it has not yet arrived. You have great tips, especially to try two treatments along with the humidity level. Guess my question is when doing a treatment in the car how long and do you leave the car running with a/c running?
You have a beautiful soul. Providing this type of content for free can literally change someone's life for the better. Wish there were more people like you out there.
Do you typically clean the walls before doing this type of treatment? I'm trying to get the smoke odor out of a 2-2 condo. I was thinking about cleaning as much as I can with some tsp, but the walls have popcorn texture, and won't be very easy to clean.
Thanks for sharing!
To do the job properly, all surfaces should be cleaned prior to treatment. But with that said, I never cleaned anything before treating. I mostly did apartments and even on the worst ones, as long as I got ozone saturation by using a lot of ozone, the treatment always worked as long as there wasn't a hidden source.
@@AllAmericanMack thanks! I'll be starting my ozone treatment this weekend. I'm still debating whether or not I should prime with Kilz afterwards, even if the smell disappears.
Have you ever had any callbacks from customers months later? Right now it's hot, and ac is running. The room is generally cool. But in the wintertime, when heat runs that might release additional odors, cause by indirect heat reflected off parts of the duct and surrounding drywall. I'm interested to hear your thoughts on that.
Such a great tutorial
This is fantastic educational content. Thanks!
Thank you! Btw, nice work with the Orbiter! 👍👍
Thank you for replying. I’ll give it a try ! Nice video too. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. We all need a little help out here!
Greatly appreciate all the info and tips.
Awesome info, looking into the website you mentioned
Very smart ideas thank you!
Great video! My new home has a chimney and fireplace that was very poorly maintained and has a smoke odor coming into the living room even after a chimney sweep since there is so much creosote up the chimney flue. An ozone treatment in the living room helped (likely neutralizing odor in carpets, walls, etc.), but I was thinking about sealing off the fireplace and running the ozone generator (have a 10000 mg/hr unit) directly in the fireplace for a few hours. Have you ever run ozone directly in a fireplace? Would it damage the unit to run it in such a tight space? What do you think about this approach? Thanks!
No, I've never ran one specifically into a fireplace but see no reason why it why it wouldn't work as long as the source (or maybe even just the bulk of the source) is removed. If I were to do it, I would probably set either a box fan if it would fit or a pivoting fan like a Patton fan (or a cheaper version) at the bottom of the fireplace and the ozone generator on top of it to force the ozone up as high as possible. Just remember that it's a fairly small area and the ozone generator is going to use up the available oxygen pretty quickly so it may be best to not run it for too long, I would probably run it for 1 - 1 1/2 hours and then assess it.
@@AllAmericanMack Thanks for the response! I would definitely hire you if you were in my area! That's a great idea on the pivoting fan. Do you think sealing off the fireplace with a tarp, utilizing only the oxygen in and up the chimney flue to the outside would help concentrate the ozone and get rid of the odor better? Does a really high ozone concentration damage the machine if I run it for an hour or two within a sealed off fireplace?
It would be similar to an ozone chamber like restoration companies use to remediate smoke odor on items that are salvagable from fires. Sealing it off is going to make it a relatively small area, plus you have a good sized machine and with the fan dispersing the ozone properly, I think it's a great strategy. You should be getting an excellent amount if *ozone saturation* (the key to any ozone job) in a short amount of time. It shouldn't hurt the machine to run it in that type of environment, that's what they are made for but it's only going to make ozone as long as there is oxygen available to it. I think as long as enough source is removed, this should work. If after a treatment there is still an odor you can do a second treatment but if the odor still remains, it means there is still too much source. I always tell people ozone will work 100% of the time... as long as the source is removed. Let me know how it works for you.
Thanks for the video! Great info! I am a real estate photographer and I shoot on average 3-5 houses a day and I constantly run into houses that need treatment.
I want to start adding this as an add on to my services. For a house that's 2-3000 sqft, do you think one or two would work? Or do you definitely need at least 3?
We live in Minnesota , can these be used in the winter time , any adivice would be appreciated , i have mold our bedroom , bathroom , etc. thanks.
Yes they can be used in any climate. Ozones half-life *increases* in colder environments so the molecules last longer which in turn means the molecules will last longer before reverting back to oxygen making it somewhat more effective.
Excellent video and explanation. Have you done houses that have lingering mold smell after remediation. What area do you service?
Hey Thank you so much for your videos. 🙏🏼 I’m in the process of starting the same service in my city…So I bought the same exact fogging machine and the FreshWaveIAQ, I just now tested it in my apartment. Is it normal to smell off putting at first? I thought it would smell like the ingredients that’s listed. Does it neutralize after a few hours? What did you tell your customers to expect?
Thank you for your time.💜
Great demonstration.
Thank you!👍👍
It smells for a long time, up to 2 days. I use quite high concentration. Once, I used it for 5-8 hours. All rubber became squishy, plants got dead
I've never found the ppm to be a factor in material degredation, only prolonged exposure time. It will certainly kill any plants left in treatment areas which is they say you have to be sure to remove the three P's - *people* *pets* and *plants* . Even with high concentrations I've found it easy to quickly strip the smell from the air with a quick fogging.
The point of running out of o2 in the generation of ozone. Would connecting the generator to a continous source of fresh air (sealed from the treating area) be great to for maximzing the ozone coverage over the time of treatment? Say a hose connected to unit, and piped thourgh window?
Wondering which is better between fogging and ozone. We have a log cabin that has a lingering musty smell. The crawl space has been sealed and a dehumidifier is installed. The chimney had a leak but has been sealed, the crown repaired and a cap installed. We also installed HVAC so the air is conditioned now. The musty smell did not go away... I'm guessing spores are in the exposed logs and fabrics???
If all the sources have been identified and corrected, it could be lingering spores. While I have used standalone fogging for lighter duty situations effectively, ozone is the real workhorse and will work every time if the source has been removed. Another option would be cl02 ( chlorine dioxide) because it's more economical than buying an ozone generator and generally more effective than fogging imo. If I just needed something for a one time use, that's what I would get. I believe the cl02 tablets are available at Home Depot or can be ordered online from many different places. If you think you would be needing something for occasional use, it may be better to go ahead and invest in an ozone generator.
Thank you for taking the time to answer my question. I will look into the Chlorine Dioxide tablets and go from there.
hi, we had water leak in the craw space under the home, smells very bad mildew like, was thinking of putting some fans to dry, then using an ozone generator. My concern is whether it damages copper pipes or pvcpipes. Thoughts? Thanks…
As far as I know, ozone doesn't react with copper. As for PVC, it may but would need excessively long exposure time. Just like ozone can react with plastic and rubber if those items are exposed to it for long periods. Lots of ozone for a short period (typically 4-6 hours) is the proper way to treat something rather than smaller amounts for long periods and the National Ozone Association has done tests proving this and that short term ozone saturation won't harm items.
Maybe I missed it, but is there a specific fresh wave IAQ I would want to buy to use in autos? I’ve been using a Maxblaster myself that I purchased in 2016. It still seems to be performing well. I’d like to se something at the end of the treatment that would rid the car of the ozone smell. Thanks!
Oops, I forgot there is more than one! I use the Fresh Wave Air & Surface spray and buy it from jondon.com
Great video can you show us how to get customer?
For this business, the best way to get customers is to go in person and talk to the people that will benefit from this service the most such as auto dealerships, realtors, and property managers at apartments. Just explain how you can help them and offer to do a free job to prove it. That's how I did it.
Great video very informative!
I am looking to start an odor removal business and wanted to see if you still find that service to be in high demand. If not, what are some services that you do find in high demand?
I'm a carpet cleaner so floor cleaning whether it's carpet, wood, tile & grout, rugs, LVP, VCT, etc. is always in demand, not to mention upholstery. Odor removal as a standalone buisness can be extremely profitable but it takes a *LOT* of work to make it into a full time business but the upside is that if you can get connected with the right people who can use the service on a continual basis, it will be worth it. I'm referring primarily to realtors who either use you directly or refer you to their clients and apartment managers. Selling it as both odor removal and sanitizing has more potential now than ever before. Used auto dealers is another route but I only had minimal success with it and the money is not as good but I know there are some companies that only do automobiles and are successful at it. Whatever you decide, don't try it for a short time and give up, it took me over a month of visiting property managers to get my first apartment.
Excellent video, thanks! From your experience, does an ozone treatment work on dog urine on carpet? And in what order do you recommend? Clean carpet first or after ozone treatment?
I would recommend cleaning first to remove as much of the urine and urine salts as possible. The problem with urine is the ozone will kill the bacteria that are feeding off of the urine and you'll probably temporarily eliminate the odor but ultimately the odor will return as the bacteria do because the source is still present and the source *has* to be removed. I've had a little better success with dog urine, at least temporarily over cat urine though.
I'm in the odor business. Always work on odors before cleaning. If you clean and the odor doesn't go away, it could get locked in.Bedminster ON-SITE Drapery Care
Do you have to air the house out afterwards? I have had respiratory problems so concerned about lingering ozone.
I like to wait about an hour after the treatment ends to enter with a respirator and yes, it should be aired out. I use box fans and open windows/doors to quickly introduce fresh air in.
@@AllAmericanMack Thanks! Do you just open the doors and set box fans in front of them to pull the air front outside in? I just wanna make sure have no health issues afterwards. Thanks for such a great demonstration :)
Hello - what licencing is needed to get started if I have the equipment? Thank you
I have a 20x25 bare wood garage attached to a home I just bought, it is where they smoked 😝 can I get a ozone machine off Amazon for that area? What do you recommend?
Do you use ozone for mycotoxin deactivation?
You should charge more considering how long the process takes, Im certified hvac tech so I clean and sanitize HVAC unit blower, drain lines and evaporator coils plus odor treatment. Just started carpet cleaning so I'm about to up my prices again
Great video, detailed. Can an ozone generator kill roaches?
Yes, ozone will kill just about anything including roaches, bedbugs, etc. but you need to get the concentration high enough. I routinely find dead bugs after a treatment. I did a pizza restaurant once that had a lot of flies while I was setting up. 6 hours later there were dead flies and roaches everywhere.
@@AllAmericanMack Thanks
How well would this ozone treatment work with mold and mildew smells and mold spores
Ozone does kill both mold and mildew, however, it involves more than just using ozone. I had an a/c leak in my home which soaked the carpet and inside a wall for some time before it was found because it was in an out of the way area. I decided to handle it myself and had to pull carpet, pad, sheetrock, and insulation and found a fair amount of mold on both the subfloor and in the walls. I discarded the affected materials, cleaned the areas with applied several applications of Sporicidin. Once that was done, I ozoned the area to be sure any mold or mold spores that were left would be killed. I'm really trying to say that for mold, ozone is just part of the solution.
@@AllAmericanMack My problem was in my bed room when i wet the carpet 2 times and it stain the wood floor with black patches i have no moisture i replaced the carpet but i haver this smell i used all kinds of mold treatments sprays but the smell keeps coming back , thinking i should buy an ozone machine this is kind of the last resort
Was it urine that caused the wet spots?
The reason I asked about urine is because if there is no moisture and the area has been cleaned, there shouldn't be any odor. But if it was urine, it may have soaked into the wood and cause a lingering odor.
@@AllAmericanMack No it was me
disinfecting the carpet with pine sol and that's a long story this was a mistake on my part.
When fogging the fresh wave iq, do you dilute the product before fogging?
No dillution, it's made to be used full strength and when using it with the fogger I find it goes a long way.
@@AllAmericanMack thanks found a label with the info. Did my first ozone treatment.
Sir, what do you think about an ozone machine mounted on a pole with a timer, between your house and a chain smoking neighbor, to stop smoke before it enters? Trying to invent something. Ozone around perimeter of a house.
Great advert. You sound like my cousin. What area are you in.
We used an ozone machine in our camper and now it, and everything in it, REEKS strongly, a sweet, acrid chemical bleachy smell that is unbearable. We have aired it out 24/7 with a box fan and open windows, and its still awful. Granted, we ran it for way too long, 8 hours, because it was a borrowed with no smell. How much longer until the ozone smell (or whatever this smell is) goes away? Can you recommend anything? We are scared we are harming ourselves because the leftover smell is giving us headaches. The curtains and blankets smell so, so bad. Would that freshwave ioq help? Where can I buy it? I appreciate your help!
It sounds like a case of over-ozoning where the ozone begins to break down and degrade items in the camper and has accellerated off-gassing. The bad news is that I don't have a good answer to fix the problem. Once things begin to degrade, replacement and/or refinishing of items are the only options that I know of. Even if the camper was aired out constantly, it won't completely stop the smell or off-gassing of the items, at least for some time. I don't think the Freshwave IAQ is the answer because even though it's for odor removal, you will still have a source (off-gassing matetials) that will continue to smell. The best answer I can give would be to give it some time to continue airing out as much as possible, replace as many soft surfaces (curtains, sheets, cushions, etc.) as possible, and maybe run an air purifier with a charcoal filter. If it's still unbearable, you may have to paint/seal/refinish the hard surfaces in it.
Hi Bethany--curious to see how things panned out with your camper. I am currently toying with an ozone machine because we bought a smoker's house. The smell as you describe it is spot on--so sickly sweet and awful, and it makes me feel sick. I got too freaked out to keep using the ozone machine, even though the cigarette smell remained. I did notice that it diminished over several days, and now am back to trying to use it. But I am worried about that sickly smell sticking around. Did yours ever dissipate?
Caroline Asselin, what brand and size ozone generator did you get, how large of an area did you treat, and how long did you run it for?
@@AllAmericanMack I used the Enerzen 11,000mg unit for a total of 9 hours over 4 sessions, in a connected kitchen/dining/living room with fans. So far the smokey smell is a bit better, and the sickly ozone smell does seem to fade over time. I think I will keep trying short sessions (1 hour), but by god the smoke smell is stubborn. I am just nervous about overdoing it. We have already washed everything with TSP multiple times and have the BIN ready as a next step.
Ok, I'm going to give you some advice that may help you with your odor issue. First, I'm familiar with the machine you have and imo it's too small to do the job you want it to do. Those may work fine for a car or small area but not large areas. Probably every ozone generator made somewhat overstates their output to some degree. Plus, there are a lot of factors that play into the actual ozone production like temperature and humidity. I'm not trying to put down your machine but I would be shocked if it even put out half of the mg/hr stated even under optimum circumstances. Combine all that with the large area you have and it's going to be a losing battle because your machine simply can't make enough ozone to saturate the area and do a true "shock treatment" which is what it's going to take to eliminate the smoke odor. The key to an effective ozone treatment is ozone saturation and to get that saturation you have to be able to make enough ozone in a given time frame to overcome the working rate and natural depletion rate of the ozone. If you ran it for a total of 9 hours in 4 sessions in that size area, it isn't even coming close to being effective. It will sometimes lessen the odor because there was some interaction between the odor molecules and the ozone but it will never 100% elimimate it. Ozone generators are like most things, the quality is directly proportionate to the cost and there is a reason why people in the odor removal business or fire restoration companies use certain brands. You didn't ask and I'm sure you probably don't want to have to purchase another one but I will say that if you are looking for an ozone generator that will do the job, I would recommend the Maxblaster 20k mg/hr. I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I'm just a user of their equipment but it works and they put out massive amounts of ozone which is what's needed. If you don't want to buy another machine, I would try sectioning off areas with plastic sheeting to maybe 100 - 150 sq/ft and treating each small area seperately with a box fan blowing the ozone up towards the ceiling. Make sure everything is exposed and open all cabinets and drawers. I would run the machine for 5-6 hours in each section, super short durations are not going to be enough. Maybe do just one section like this and see how it works for you. You mention that you don't like the ozone smell so you can buy the Freshwave IAQ Air & Surface spray and use it in a spray bottle to help strip the ozone smell away. After I spray a job there is no detectable ozone smell. Another option would be to look into chlorine dioxide which does the same thing as ozone but it off-gasses from a tablet that you put into water. You need to know how much to use for a given area but I can't be of much help with that because I don't use it. Although I haven't personally checked, I've heard that it's available from Home Depot and amazon and it would be much cheaper than buying a larger ozone generator.
Key to Success 5:35
How long does a treatment last, a couple weeks to months until you gotta come back? Or does it completely get rid of the odors forever?
Aa long as the original source of the odor is removed and the treatment is done properly, it's permanent because it destroys the odor molecules so it can't return.
So do you think the treatment could work on a daycare center? Wondering if there would be reoccurring treatments or just 1
@@AllAmericanMack
What do you mean exactly by removing the original source?
I live in an apartment which used to be inhabited by a smoker. Would a treatment like this remove the smell permanently, without me having to throw out the carpet and wallpaper?
If the original source isn't removed, it will continue to cause the odor after a treatment. In your situation, technically the walls, ceilings and carpets or floors should be cleaned prior to treatment. However, when I treat apartments, they never want to pay extra for the labor of having all that done so I just ozone them and it has worked 100% of the time. The key is to use a quality ozone machine or machines and saturate the area with ozone. For a smoke odor in an apartment I typically use 4 or 5 ozone generators depending on the size and number of rooms. Basically, each room gets a machine and larger areas get 2 and all my machines are at least 10k mg/hr up to 20k mg/hr. The cheaper machines found on amazon or ebay leave a lot to be desired in terms of efficiency and reliability so I always advise people to steer clear of those. Occasionally I come into contact with someone who says they tried ozone to address an odor issue and it didn't work. Ozone works 100% of the time as long as the source has been removed and there was proper saturation.
Hi, sorry about the delay. I know a single treatment would work as long as it was done properly with enough ozone saturation. However it may need periodic treatments because of the children continually contributing to new odors.
Random question. We had a fireplace issue pop up and we need to run our ozone in a den. There is a Christmas tree in there. Do you think it will hurt the tree?
I'm assuming it is a real tree and although I've never ran an ozone generator with a real tree, I would err on the side of caution since the tree is still "kind of alive" and the oxidation would likely finish it off in my opinion.
Can you use an ozone unit while the AC and furnace are running?
Do I need to remove things in the kitchen ? Like food and water ?
No, ozone won't hurt or effect those things, only people, pets and plants need to be moved. Some places actually treat water with ozone to make it safe to drink and there are some ozone machines made to ozone foods.
@@AllAmericanMackthanks for the speedy response ! Just subscribed :))
You use ozone in multifamily apartment buildings?
What fogging machine you use?
B&G ULV fogger.
@@AllAmericanMack thanks 🙏🏻
How many mg per our are the max blaster machines you use for odor removal ?
All are 15k mg/hr except one which is 20k mg/hr.
Will this get the odor out of the vents as well?
Hi, sorry for sounding ignorant, but what is in the ULV fogger? I've been trying to research it and see it's used for pests, but you're using it for odor control from the ozone if I understood correctly. Not sure what you're putting in it though. I make nanoparticle colloidal silver, and it's amazing for mold and odors, and can be used in a diffuser, so was thinking it might be more effective if used in this after using the ozone machine.
Oh I see the Freshwave IAQ now. I will need to check the ingredients of it, but I still think the colloidal silver will work just fine, and is completely non-toxic, and can even be nebulized in the lungs directly. For someone like myself, with multiple chemical sensitivities even though the Freshwave says "nontoxic", it still may be something I could have issues with. I need to research to see what the ingredients are, if it says at all. Thanks!
Edited to add that I looked at the ingredients, and it does appear to be a safe product for most people. Not sure if I would have issues with it or not. Natural products have still affected me negatively that shouldn't. I'd have to get a small jar of it and see. I see Amazon sells it. The cedarwood and clove might give me problems depending on how concentrated those scents are. The others wouldn't give me problems, but all of them together would most likely be problematic for my friend with asthma. Tea tree oil, and other essential oils can bring on an attack for him immediately. In case anyone else is wondering about the ingredients list: Water, Clove, Lime, Cedarwood, Pine Needle and Anise. Probably fine for most people. I also realize, that unless someone makes their own Colloidal Silver, it would not be cost effective to use it in a fogger, or carpet cleaning machine etc. The machine I use to make it is the Silver Edge. It's a couple hundred bucks, but you recover that quickly by what you make with it. I make half gallon batches at 15ppm, and that alone is worth $50 at a good price if you bought it. Cost me roughly .30 to make it!
Great info, thanks for sharing!
Is it true that Ozone generator will rust all metals around it??
Awesome
Thanks for watching.👍👍
Did you need any license to start an ozone business.
There’s none around me and watching your video.
I’m gonna start one.
What's the target saturation you hit to eliminate most odors?
I don't use an ozone meter so I'm not really looking for a specific ppm saturation. I do the jobs based more off of experience in what has worked. When I first started, I had a very successful mentor in the business who helped me with the process and what exactly I needed to do to eliminate, and guarantee odor removal. For residential jobs, I'm using 10-15k mg/hr per average room, large rooms or areas, 15-30k mg/hr, and depending on severity, I may put another machine on the hvac and add manual remediation of some areas with my converted shopvac. Run times of 4-6 hours always takes care of the odors and again, that depends in severity. I did a pizza reastaurant and setup 4 machines in the lobby and 4 in the kitchen for 6 hours. As I learned early on, ozone saturation is the key to it working 100% of the time.
@@AllAmericanMack Ok, thanks for the reply. All the best.
Ulv fog with what?
Have tried everything to get rid of a lingering odor -- even replacing sub floor. Still, during the summer months, on humid days, the odor (pet dander? Tobacco from previous owners? Attic odors???) comes back with a vengeance.
I've tried Prokure (chlorine dioxide), I've tried ozone -- I can't seem to get rid of the dang odor! What am I not thinking of??
Mystery odors can be a nightmare to diagnose. Have you specifically smelled pet odors like urine or "wet dog smell" or tobacco/smoke?
@@AllAmericanMack much of the subfloor we replaced had dog urine in it - we replaced the worst parts, and coated the remaining parts with Zinser Binz shelac- based primer. That worked fine for the uric acid smell -- but on every warm humid day, there is a pet-like odor from some other source. Could the attic insulation be harboring tobacco smoke smell?? I have one ozone generator that I've set for 6 hours before (while everyone was gone). Also tried two 10 gram packets if Prokure for 4-6 hours. Neither of them seemed to make a difference. Maybe I wasn't able to generate enough ozone in a shorter period of time??
You certainly handled the subfloor properly with replacement/sealing so I wouldn't think there would be any odor from there. What about the walls? Did you check to see if any urine had migrated into either the sheetrock or studs? I had a customer who purchased a home that had a severe urine odor and wanted me to clean the carpet. I informed him that the problem was well beyond just cleaning the carpet and more than likely wouldn't help much. Sure enough, after a thorough cleaning and deodorizing, the smell was just as bad. In addition to the contaminated subfloor, there was a *lot* of urine soaked into the walls so he needed to seal the affected studs, amd replace the lower sheetrock and molding. One way you may be able to check whether this is either all or part of the problem is to go along the bottom of your walls and mist the baseboards and lower sheetrock with a trigger sprayer of just water and use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm it just a little bit. This will add the heat and humidity needed to activate the urine salts, then give it a good sniff and see if you can locate the odor. Of course this only works if it accesses the urine salts, if they are only inside of the wall it's harder to reach them.
I had another job where the customer had a recliner that had been saturated in cat urine (the worst of the worst). She wanted to save the chair but no amount of cleaning could get inside the cushions where all the urine salts were. I injected it with quaternary ammoniums and forced ozone into the cushions but the source was still there and it still stunk. The deal with ozone or cl02 is they will both work 100% of the time as long as two things happen. 1) The source of the odor has to be removed and 2) There has to be enough of the gas to properly oxidize the odor molecules and/or bacteria that are causing the odor. Since you've used both ozone and cl02 already and still odor, either you still have a source of the odor or you didn't use enough of the gas. I would lean towards there is still a source somewhere though. As for the attic insulation holding odor, I'm sure it's possible but I've never ran across that even in heavily smoked in homes. The smoke odor I run into is usually on the walls and ceiling, and in the HVAC system. Proper protocol for smoke odor is cleaning the flooring and washing the walls and ceiling, but honestly, usually a megadose of ozone gets rid of it. I won't be of much help with cl02 because I don't use it so I can't really recommend an amount to use. You didn't mention what kind and size of ozone generator you used, or how large of an area you trated, but that can make a huge difference in effectiveness.
You're doing the right things but since there is a lingering odor, it tells me there's still something there *causing* the odor that needs to found and removed. I would keep searching and sniffing to try and locate where the odor is originating from, that's what I do on mystery odor jobs.
@@AllAmericanMack I'll definitely keep on looking for a source -- not sure where to look, but will try the mister/heat-gun approach to see if anything jumps out of dry wall. There sub-floor in the entry-way is the only thing we've not treated, yet -- might be the culprit?
The Ozone generator I used is the "OdorStop OS2500UV Professional Grade Ozone Generator" (from Amazon). I've had it run a couple of times for 12 hours (while everyone was out of the house) -- we smelled a good deal of ozone... but the smell eventually returned. Honestly, it smells more like 'stale smoke' than the Uric acid of the dog urine -- but, hard to pinpoint *where* it's coming from. The walls and ceiling were painted just before we moved in (not sure if it was primed.... but probably not).
With not much to lose at this point, I ordered a 12 pack of "Big D Odor Control Fogger" from Amazon today (each can supposedly treats 6,000 cubic feet) -- I will try a couple of cans of that (maybe even in the attic?) and see how it goes.
There's only 20 square feet of carpet left in the house - on the stairs -- no trace of uric acid there -- the carpet was new when we moved in -- the rest we took out before we replace sub-floor and replaced with wood flooring.
Hopefully the foggers will remediate the odor for you. If there was heavy smoking and the walls were not cleaned and/or primed, smoke odor certainly can begin to leach out from the paint so that's one potential source. I did look up the ozone generator you purchased and it has a very low output at a maximum of 1200 mg/hr. By contrast, I would use 60,000 - 70,000 mg/hr on an average 3 bedroom smokers home. I'm not trying to speak negatively of your machine, just giving you the real numbers needed to do a true shock treatment and it's how I guarantee 100% odor removal. Your machine is capable of true shock treatments, it's just going to take a little more work.
After you use the foggers, let me know how it works out as I'm always interested to know which products work and which don't. If they don't work out and you want to try the ozone again, I'll give you some tips to make it much more effective.
What kind of ULV fogged is that?
It's a B&G Flex-A-Lite fogger.
Doesn't the ozone destroy plastics?
Ozone *can* make plastic brittle at extremely high levels for excessively long exposures however many ozone generators have plastic enclosures without problems. The converted Rigid shop vac I have is made from plastic and it has an output of 40k mg/hr and the plastic hasn't gotten brittle.
Where are you located?
Can you do an Ozone treatment with electronics in the house? Ozone is highly corrosive. Thank you.
Ozone is corrosive but only with prolonged exposure. A proper treatment should be no longer than 6 hours which is too short to damage them. The problems come in when people use small ozone generators that do not produce enough ozone and run them for days. Much like rubber, ozone can and will degrade it if exposed for days at a time but not for short periods. The key to proper use is ozone saturation which means generating more ozone in a shorter time frame rather than less ozone for a longer period.
@@AllAmericanMack thank you so much for the reply. I was nervous about running mine with all the TV's in the house.
I purchased a cheap ozone machine on Amazon for $69. The ad says 12000 mg/h. Is that believable?
Will it deodorize a 1000/sq ft house that has a horrific cat smell?
The machine he recommends is hundreds of dollars... likely these cheap units produces far less ozone than advertised.
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wow you are really cheap. the reason I was looking into this is I know a guy who has a very successful odor removal business and he charges $0.80 a sqft for 12 hours. So I was thinking of getting into it as well.
Cheap is a relative term though. $300+ for literally a half hour of work is just fine with me. The realtors and property managers here wouldn't pay that kind if money and would be far less likely to refer me if I charged $1600 for a 2000 sq/ft house. Btw, I modeled my prices after a very successful company also.
Good luck
Can you share with us what kind of marketing you do for this business. I have heard you say in the past that your carpet cleaning business took an awful lot of marketing, what kind of marketing did you do for that as well?
Actually this is what took a lot of marketing, way more than carpet cleaning. For carpet, a website and a google business listing will started generating a base of calls and then I added in some cold calling and social media plus repeats and referrals and that was it. For odor removal, it wasn't as easy. I created a website and google business listing and it pulled a a few one off jobs here and there but the odor removal business tends to get mixed in with carpet cleaning and it's not something very many people specifically look for other than when they need something cleaned. The only marketing that I found effective was targeting the groups of people who could be of most beneficial from the service and be able to provide residual business like realtors, car dealerships and property management, specifically property management. I did some car dealership work but it had it's drawbacks like less money, some do it in-house already, and there were already people in my area servicing some of the larger dealerships for $25 per vehicle while I charged $65 for dealerships. Realtors are also a source but there are a *lot* of realtors out there who are unfamiliar with the whole thing and how well it works and I found getting referrals from them difficult. I feel property management is the best route due to the sheer volume of apartments and rentals and the turnover rate, this is where the bulk of the work comes from. But to get back to your question, I cold called all of the above groups in-person. Auto dealerships just got a quick sales pitch, a business card, and the offer to let me treat a vehicle for free. I found the smaller dealerships were much more likely to use my service. For realtors, I dropped off some marketing material that included a 8x11 plastic sign holder with some company info on it, a business card holder, brochures, and a couple candy jars with my company name on them. They generally had no problem letting me place them in the break rooms. For property management, I tried to talk directly with the manager although that can sometimes be tricky to meet with them since they often manage several locations. I dropped off a folder with an intro letter, brochure, business card, newsletter, and something else that I can't remember, and a candy jar. I gave them a quick 2 minute sales pitch and offered to do a free treatment. Other than that, I mailed out postcards to them about every 6 weeks to keep my name in front of them. Really, that's all I did but it was incredibly time consuming as I spent months doing this. It does take a lot of work and time to build the business. There was a guy in the business in another state who lucked up and was in contact with the owner of 40 something apartment complexes and he was contracted to do every single unit after the tenant moved out so he stayed busy just with that and ideally that would be the way to go. The key is just getting in front of the people who need the service and don't know you are out there. The first apartment complexes I picked up ( 3 of them managed by the same person) used to hire one of the big restoration companies to do odor removal and not only did they charge a lot more than me, they would stick an ozone generator in the apartment for 3 days and call it good and she said it was never odor free when they were done. I could do the job for 1/3 of the price, do it right, and only tie up the unit for about 6 hours. One more thing, I never marketed the service as an "ozone" service, I marketed it as guaranteed odor removal and always explained that it's a multistep process. A lot of people want to know *how* it's done just because they really have no idea how someone removes odors so I would explain the process of using ozone and also why fogging is a necessary part of the treatment and that I have specialized equipment (such as the converted shop vac) to do the job properly and that I was a certified ozone technician. This way I wasn't just a guy with an ozone machine.
Does this work to get rid of a curry smell?
Hope you have used this audio and made yourself more advertments
you can’t have 0% humidity 🤣😂😂
You seal it up an turn the shit on walk away an leave them running for 48 hour's.
That'a exactly how *not* to properly do an ozone treatment.