Hi Damp Sam i have been watching alot of your videos and im really impressed with your experience and knowledge on damp issues. Im currently having an issue in a property that i have renovated whereby im getting wet dot and dab spots coming through on a upstairs bedroom chimney. I am wanting to apply the dryflex membrane as you have in this video and wanting to know if this process could work for my problem and also the brand of blue membrane you used as looks to be very similar to decoupling membrane used in wet rooms. Thanks in advance. 0:040:04
Hi, yes your right about the wet room materials and Mapie do a system that is exactly the same, the system was taken from German waterproofing methods I was told years ago.
Great vid sam! I agree with you, this is a great material for chimneys and sulphates, im not sold on using it for other damp issues, much prefer express or membrane systems
Every job is different you need to study the product and prep all backgrounds appropriately. It’s primarily a waterproof system but we use it to isolate sulphate salts and do walls if the plaster is maga thin and won’t take the normal system.
What is the black paint you have painted on the top of the skirting mate. Looks like a liquid dpm. Is that because its very hard to get the dry flex tight to the top of the wood? Or to stop the skim coat touching anything wet at that point?
@@dampsam hi Sam thanks for the reply, I was looking at a photograph of the offending salt ingress in my daughters house, I’ve been to look at it and it’s not artex, once scrapped back it’s old plaster, so I assume we can use the product as per your video. Regards
Hello mate used this on a few jobs now and few of the walls got hair line cracks when it dried any idear or have you came across this? Paint covered the cracks there that fine. But bloody painter told the customer that plaster was blown everywhere because it sounds hollow when you tapp it being on that membrane
its not a dampproofing method, its an isolation and waterproof system. the council are living in the dark ages still using a wet plaster system. the express system would save them a lot of money in time and effort.
Hi Sam, I've learnt a lot from watching you and appreciate you passing on your experience. I'm thinking of using Dry flex membrane in the front room at my Mums house, there's a few damp areas on the front wall and chimney breast wall. I was planning on applying the adhesive straight onto the existing plaster (it's not moldy and generally in good condition) but I spoke to Safegard and they said they would always recommend knocking off the plaster and applying it to the sub-strate. What's your opinion, I was planning on covering 3 walls in full and would much rather not have to remove the plaster.
It depends what your using it for, if it’s isolating sulphate salts on a chimney breast and the plaster is sound there is no issue. If it’s rising damp don’t use dryflex
@@dampsam Hi Sam, Just curious as to why you wouldn't use dryflex for rising damp?. I've been using the tanking system for years but recently safeguard brought this product to my attention saying this is an alternative method to tanking. remove the plaster, apply to the brick work and then dot and dab or plaster over it. They advertise it as being watertight. Just wondering on what your thoughts are. Regards, Ashley
@@dampsam i used dam proof membrane from permagard. Was harder than they made out to put on around bay window . With five corners.. didnt giv me enough plastter plugs. Membrane was sagging everwhere. Wouldnt reccomend. Unless using on a strate wall
Best damp proofing channel on RUclips, this
De nada 👍
Hi Damp Sam i have been watching alot of your videos and im really impressed with your experience and knowledge on damp issues. Im currently having an issue in a property that i have renovated whereby im getting wet dot and dab spots coming through on a upstairs bedroom chimney. I am wanting to apply the dryflex membrane as you have in this video and wanting to know if this process could work for my problem and also the brand of blue membrane you used as looks to be very similar to decoupling membrane used in wet rooms. Thanks in advance. 0:04 0:04
Hi, yes your right about the wet room materials and Mapie do a system that is exactly the same, the system was taken from German waterproofing methods I was told years ago.
Great vid sam! I agree with you, this is a great material for chimneys and sulphates, im not sold on using it for other damp issues, much prefer express or membrane systems
Yes totally agree, its a waterproofing or isolation system, express system is awesome
Hi Sam, Great video. So this membrane can go directly over damp areas without having to remove the existing plaster and render? Thanks
Every job is different you need to study the product and prep all backgrounds appropriately. It’s primarily a waterproof system but we use it to isolate sulphate salts and do walls if the plaster is maga thin and won’t take the normal system.
Hello sam ,whats the black stuff around the top of the skirtings,looks like black jack seal.
It would be Drybase liquid DPM
Hi mate, another good video. I'm over in Manchester, just wondered how much did you charge for the job mate
I’m not sure but every job is different and we would have done a survey & report first
What is the black paint you have painted on the top of the skirting mate. Looks like a liquid dpm. Is that because its very hard to get the dry flex tight to the top of the wood? Or to stop the skim coat touching anything wet at that point?
Yes it’s isolating stuff
Whats the thiner stuff called?
Hello Sam, would this system work on efflorescent salts caused by rising damp? The plaster is only 2 years old.
Thanks Ellis
Without seeing the job it’s hard to say
Hi, can you use dry flex membrane over patterned artex prior to skimming with plaster ? As salts have come through
It’s hard to comment without seeing the job
@@dampsam hi Sam thanks for the reply, I was looking at a photograph of the offending salt ingress in my daughters house, I’ve been to look at it and it’s not artex, once scrapped back it’s old plaster, so I assume we can use the product as per your video.
Regards
Hello mate used this on a few jobs now and few of the walls got hair line cracks when it dried any idear or have you came across this? Paint covered the cracks there that fine. But bloody painter told the customer that plaster was blown everywhere because it sounds hollow when you tapp it being on that membrane
Could be the paint or finish that’s de bonded under the membrane if it wasn’t prepped right
Hi sam great video , could you use wykamol isotherm instead?
Yes it would still isolate salts but I would always check with the manufacturer.
Hmm what happens to all the cack at skirting level... is that left to a decorator to finish properly ? corners are not that sharp either.!!
I beg to differ lad
thanks Sam
Hi..sam..i have the same issue..do you have to remove the old plaster or bonding
Every job is different so without seeing it it’s hard to say
@dampsam if you use the dry flex do still need the dpc cream or rods ..thanks for getting back
Where can I get these materials from, as I may need these in my house.
Safeguard sell all there stuff on Amazon
Is that just a mulit finish over the top
It is yes
great job, I use this system loads, whats the new membrane? looks loads thinner?
Smashing work, so would you say this method is better then using limelight backing with limelight skim on top as we use that at the council 😂🙄
Im not sure where they got this from but its a lot better to install than the dryflex, safeguard sourced it when there was a shortage.
its not a dampproofing method, its an isolation and waterproof system. the council are living in the dark ages still using a wet plaster system. the express system would save them a lot of money in time and effort.
Hi Sam, I've learnt a lot from watching you and appreciate you passing on your experience. I'm thinking of using Dry flex membrane in the front room at my Mums house, there's a few damp areas on the front wall and chimney breast wall. I was planning on applying the adhesive straight onto the existing plaster (it's not moldy and generally in good condition) but I spoke to Safegard and they said they would always recommend knocking off the plaster and applying it to the sub-strate. What's your opinion, I was planning on covering 3 walls in full and would much rather not have to remove the plaster.
It depends what your using it for, if it’s isolating sulphate salts on a chimney breast and the plaster is sound there is no issue. If it’s rising damp don’t use dryflex
@@dampsam Hi Sam, Just curious as to why you wouldn't use dryflex for rising damp?. I've been using the tanking system for years but recently safeguard brought this product to my attention saying this is an alternative method to tanking. remove the plaster, apply to the brick work and then dot and dab or plaster over it. They advertise it as being watertight. Just wondering on what your thoughts are.
Regards,
Ashley
Where do you get the dry flex membrane from
From safeguard europe, I think it’s sold on Amazon
@@dampsam i used dam proof membrane from permagard. Was harder than they made out to put on around bay window . With five corners.. didnt giv me enough plastter plugs. Membrane was sagging everwhere. Wouldnt reccomend. Unless using on a strate wall
What's with the hardboard why so big 😂😂😂
Real man’s tools lad 💪
@@dampsam behave yourself are you one of them fellas I'm faster than you 🤣🤣coz you've got a big stupid no need for hand board 🤦♂️
I’m using membranes for wet rooms in damp proofing over 2 years. I think you make mistake because you used few pieces instead one🙂 👍🏻
There is a lot more water in a wet room we are just isolating salts