Could you please help me? I have exactly the same through axle. My fork is Rocks Shox Zeb Ultimate. Unfortunately I have lost the through axle nut / cap. Please, where can I find a replacement? Thank you! I hope you do see this comment and recommend me what to do. Thanks again!
I got new giant pr2 wheels and the first ride I did eneded up with me grounding the front thru axle mountings - those elements that press against the bearing and the frame on the other side. Have no freaking idea how is that even possible, couldnt have been missaligned - its a thsu axle, right? The axle diameter is correct, bearings are sooth.....Axle went thru the hub no problem, threaded in easily. Would be grateful for any hints. Cheers
@@BikeTeacher thnx for responding. Yes, the caps spun and got damaged on their spine- lets call it. It looks as if the thru axle was not seated at the bearings but just these caps. The hub got really hot due to this fiction. The bearings seem to be ok tho. One shop suggested that my hub is missing some elements. I dont think IT does tho. What looks weird is the axle which is thin in the middle and only has thick support at both ends. The bearings are not touching the thru axle in this thinner spot. Not sure if there is a possibility that you need dedicated thru axle to some hubs.
@@BikeTeacher also, i saw the thru axle handle unscrewing itself while riding. IT was tightened well. Definately sth was missalligned..It didnt happen immediately after i started riding - gradually over a 70km ride..I just thought such things shouldnt happen with thru axle systems
For anyone interested - problem solved with thru axle equally thick. Bearings are seated well and not in thin air. IT seems these thinned thru axles dont go with all the hubs even when the dimensions are right. Very dangerous if IT goes at 30/40 kph. At first IT works fine.
I have an odd problem. I have a quick release on the rear of a road thru axle (12x142) and it really does not tighten enough. The issue is the pitch is 1.25, yes, 1.25. I am NOT a machinist, but I have thought of using a heli coil on the drive side nut. Any thoughts?
Is the female threads, or the receiving threads replaceable or are they molded into the frame? Have you tried a different thru axle to test it? If it’s a quick release then the contact points of the lever may be worn down not allowing to get tention.
I broke the stock thru axle skewer of my front which has a measurement of L124mm TL16mm TP M12x1.5 and the closest variety I saw online was L126mm TL 17mm TP M12x1.5. Would that be a good replacement?
That all checks out to be good. There will be slight extra thread length sticking out the other end. This should not hurt anything. I have not done this but it’s definitely worth a try.
Just had one of these fail on a 1 week old bike. Think it was cross threaded in the fork from the factory. Fortunately the new forks needed are covered under warranty. Dreadful design to put a 6mm hex in soft alloy. Anyone make any in steel or with a better fastener head?
Then you would need a thru axle Tap. I will include a link as an example. All you need to do is get the info off your current axle and match the thread pitch number. Examples are 12x1.0, 15x1.5. This only works if the majority of the treads are in good shape. Typically the first couple threads can be messed up and savable.
No threads form damage? Or no threads from the manufacturer? If damaged one option is the replace the lower legs if applicable. Perform a repair/ replacement with a heli coil. Or is it possible a thread in the form of a bolt fell out and got lost.
@@BikeTeacher The drop out is unthreaded from the manufacturer. I've been trying to find what is essentially a hybrid QR style thru axle in a 12x100. It's been "challenging"
Reports and personally had my12x148 rear boost thru axles coming loose on narly terrain or long rides even at correct torque application. Any fixes or tips? Lock tire? Qr clamp boost axle made? Help!
Hmm, I would have grease on the thru axle threads, not a lot. And threadlocker on anything else that is making it’s way loose. Just a dab of threadlocker, blue low strength. No need to over do it. You want those parts to come off later if needed with hand tools.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
reverse thread stud extractors work a treat too too :)
Many thru axles have 6mm hex head on both ends. If the bolt head end is trashed it’s worth checking the treaded end to see if it can be used instead.
That is a good tip.
Could you please help me? I have exactly the same through axle. My fork is Rocks Shox Zeb Ultimate. Unfortunately I have lost the through axle nut / cap. Please, where can I find a replacement? Thank you! I hope you do see this comment and recommend me what to do. Thanks again!
Hi, I believe I left a link several times in previous comments. I will check.
Does this tool also work for stripped thru axle locking nut? I need to install a Tailfin thruaxle and 1mm locking nut on my Open. Thx!
I got new giant pr2 wheels and the first ride I did eneded up with me grounding the front thru axle mountings - those elements that press against the bearing and the frame on the other side. Have no freaking idea how is that even possible, couldnt have been missaligned - its a thsu axle, right? The axle diameter is correct, bearings are sooth.....Axle went thru the hub no problem, threaded in easily. Would be grateful for any hints. Cheers
Are you referring to the end caps (of the axle)? Did they get grounded down?
@@BikeTeacher thnx for responding. Yes, the caps spun and got damaged on their spine- lets call it. It looks as if the thru axle was not seated at the bearings but just these caps. The hub got really hot due to this fiction. The bearings seem to be ok tho. One shop suggested that my hub is missing some elements. I dont think IT does tho. What looks weird is the axle which is thin in the middle and only has thick support at both ends. The bearings are not touching the thru axle in this thinner spot. Not sure if there is a possibility that you need dedicated thru axle to some hubs.
@@BikeTeacher also, i saw the thru axle handle unscrewing itself while riding. IT was tightened well. Definately sth was missalligned..It didnt happen immediately after i started riding - gradually over a 70km ride..I just thought such things shouldnt happen with thru axle systems
For anyone interested - problem solved with thru axle equally thick. Bearings are seated well and not in thin air. IT seems these thinned thru axles dont go with all the hubs even when the dimensions are right. Very dangerous if IT goes at 30/40 kph. At first IT works fine.
I have an odd problem. I have a quick release on the rear of a road thru axle (12x142) and it really does not tighten enough. The issue is the pitch is 1.25, yes, 1.25. I am NOT a machinist, but I have thought of using a heli coil on the drive side nut. Any thoughts?
Is the female threads, or the receiving threads replaceable or are they molded into the frame? Have you tried a different thru axle to test it? If it’s a quick release then the contact points of the lever may be worn down not allowing to get tention.
I broke the stock thru axle skewer of my front which has a measurement of L124mm TL16mm TP M12x1.5 and the closest variety I saw online was L126mm TL 17mm TP M12x1.5. Would that be a good replacement?
That all checks out to be good. There will be slight extra thread length sticking out the other end. This should not hurt anything. I have not done this but it’s definitely worth a try.
@@BikeTeacher Thanks! Found another axle that has L125, same pitch and TL17.
Just had one of these fail on a 1 week old bike. Think it was cross threaded in the fork from the factory. Fortunately the new forks needed are covered under warranty. Dreadful design to put a 6mm hex in soft alloy. Anyone make any in steel or with a better fastener head?
what if the inside of the axle housing is striped? not the axle itself, but in the frame. The threaded part at the end.
Then you would need a thru axle Tap. I will include a link as an example. All you need to do is get the info off your current axle and match the thread pitch number. Examples are 12x1.0, 15x1.5. This only works if the majority of the treads are in good shape. Typically the first couple threads can be messed up and savable.
www.backcountry.com/park-tool-thru-axle-tap?CMP_SKU=PAR005Y&MER=0406&skid=PAR005Y-TAP-S12MMXS1&mr:trackingCode=BF76E919-9F16-E811-8102-005056944E17&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=m&mr:adType=online&CMP_ID=PLA_GMm001&Google&PLA&k_clickid=_k_CjwKCAjwhNWZBhB_EiwAPzlhNrR99FzsCOSn056e9DrU_EJl_vMmMCsC8zuO9CsBWz7vIne22ZQG4RoCRUgQAvD_BwE_k_&PAR005Y-TAP-S12MMXS1&gclid=CjwKCAjwhNWZBhB_EiwAPzlhNrR99FzsCOSn056e9DrU_EJl_vMmMCsC8zuO9CsBWz7vIne22ZQG4RoCRUgQAvD_BwE
@@BikeTeacher what happens if this doesnt do it? Trip to the machine shop?
@@eda7875 they can drill the old thread out and replace it.
What's the tools kit called you used to get it out?
Park Tool THH-1. The black end of the t-handle is used for this. Thanks
What if your fork doesn't have any threads but is thru axle?
No threads form damage? Or no threads from the manufacturer? If damaged one option is the replace the lower legs if applicable. Perform a repair/ replacement with a heli coil. Or is it possible a thread in the form of a bolt fell out and got lost.
@@BikeTeacher The drop out is unthreaded from the manufacturer. I've been trying to find what is essentially a hybrid QR style thru axle in a 12x100. It's been "challenging"
Reports and personally had my12x148 rear boost thru axles coming loose on narly terrain or long rides even at correct torque application.
Any fixes or tips? Lock tire? Qr clamp boost axle made? Help!
Hmm, I would have grease on the thru axle threads, not a lot. And threadlocker on anything else that is making it’s way loose. Just a dab of threadlocker, blue low strength. No need to over do it. You want those parts to come off later if needed with hand tools.
Maybe a new thru axle and receiving end need replacement of the are very worn. It is soft aluminum that can wear over time.
Maxle axles are trash. The metal is so soft and strips easily even when using the designated torque specs. Trash.
Yep, I ruined the first one I had.