When you talk with guys who rebuild turbos, a lot of the time they avoid the restrictor and just want at least a 20mm flow return opening and fittings to clear the build up of oil, I don't think it's advisable limiting the oil, just a good return flow would stop a smoking turbo! Great video and the direct return is the way to go.
Welding if done properly should work equally well. I have reused the same fitting on three different engine blocks now. In my case I prefer bolt on. Yes, issues can occur drilling into the block. You must be careful to avoid critical areas like oil galley's, main bearing caps, connecting rods and the crankshaft.
I think this method is fine for most but if you are anal like me.... I clean the area on the inside where the drills will come through then place a small cap from WD40 or paint can in that area and blob it with quick setting urethane, wait till it hardens and easy clean up afterwards.
heads up, pushlock is not made for temps and condition such as a turbo return line. Use hydrolic line. it will last much longer, has and inner lining protected by steel braiding and then outer. and has the same fitting you used.
+Brent Shaw You are wrong Brent. Earl's Super Stock Hose is manufactured from a high-quality synthetic rubber reinforced by a full coverage interior braided fabric sheath. The inner liner has been reformulated to be more tolerant of modern pump gas additives. Rated at 250 psi and 250° F continuous service. Suitable for fuel, oil, and water; do not use this hose with brake fluid.
@@vincevegacustoms8860 actually for a holset they require a hell of a return line, 16mm is too small for a holset. factory mitsubishi inside diameter is 16mm. an fittings are not advisable.
great point oil drain above the oil level One of my old turbo setups I had the drain too close to the oil in the sump and it was an embarrassing lesson to learn.
My oil return line came off my turbo. When I was troubleshooting, I noticed the engine sounded like it didn't have a muffler when the return line was off. It also blew hot air out of the turbo where the line was. Is this normal? I didn't run the engine for more than a few seconds, so no oil came out, just hot, fairly pressurized air.
Great question AFHero66!! Anything coming out of the turbo will of course be hot. The sound described could be excessive exhaust back pressure making its way backwards past the Turbo impeller seal and out the turbo oil drain. You may have a restricted catalytic converter or muffler. I would suggest measuring exhaust pressure at the oxygen sensor fitting downstream of the turbo. Drill a test hole in the exhaust pipe between the turbo and catalytic converter if needed to measure the pressure. There are many videos on diagnosing a plugged catalytic converter. If the sound is coming out of the oil return line rather than the turbo oil drain you may have a broken piston. A broken piston would usually be accompanied by misfire at idle. Good Luck!!!
@@jbl212 I pulled the cat off just to check the turbo and everything looked great...until I touched the turbine with my finger and it just rattled around. The new turbo is on its way. lol This also maybe explains why the exhaust gasses were exiting out the oil drain tube. And ofc my oil feed tube was cooked too. Summation: No oil to lubricate the turbo, got hot, blew up, and now my $20 fix just went up to $600. :) Thanks for your response.
Hello I'm from Indonesia, I'm trying to install turbo on motorcycle.. I'm using ihi turbocharger. How to measure the different between inlet oil and outlet?.. there are 3 hole at the body.. txs for ur time..
The oil outlet is usually much larger than the inlet with a 2 bolt flange because oil tends to foam and expand inside the spinning turbo and the extra large hole allows the foamed expanded oil to flow properly when exiting the turbo. Most IHI turbos have 4 holes with 2 for coolant circulation in and out of equal size. The smallest of the 4 holes is the high pressure oil inlet and if you spray WD-40 into the oil inlet it will flow out the larger oil outlet. You can also check the service manual for the vehicle that the turbo is from to identify each hole. If this does not answer your question feel free to send me pictures by email at jb21126@gmail.com and I will do my best to help you identify the the holes. Good Luck!!
I'm looking to turbo my Sohc d16 soon. I've seen some people weld the fitting to the pan. Does the anaerobic sealer work just as good as welding? And are there any issues that can occur by drilling into the block?
Technically he didn't drill it into the block. The engine has like a cast oilpan with a smaller oilpan bolted onto the bottom. Many other engines with normal oil pans you can drill the return into the oilpan. If you can get near the crankshaft level
Have you had any issues with the AN fitting getting loose from engine vibration? Only reason I ask is because I have AN fitting running from my valve cover to an oil catch and sometimes loosen up because of engine vibration.
If by "oil line" you mean oil level you are on the right path. You must return oil above the oil level in the pan or crankcase so that it does not back up into the turbo. You must also consider the "dynamic" oil level under acceleration- that is the level where oil will roll up to or down to in the pan while accelerating. To combat this you can lengthen the return line further into the pan or raise the position if possible. The other challenge is having enough slope or draft in the return line to provide gravity flow. There must never be any kinks in the return line. I suggest removing the pan to drill.
John Broderick Yes, I was going to remove the pan, clean it, then fill it with and equal amount of quarts of water to simulate the oil level. Then mark where that line would be, and go from there.
Matt Neihart Good idea Matt. Maybe you can get some spare pans and see if there is a residual oil level mark in the pan before cleaning. Then think about dynamic oil roll. If you need a longer fitting into the pan you can use a "Bulkhead" fitting and even trim it to an angle if you like. One pan could have the entire bottom cut out for interference checking with rods, etc. A spare engine would be nice if it's in the budget to check interference as well. You may need the spare engine later based on my experience!
John Broderick I think I will get an extra pan, just to see how everything looks clearance wise. I will have to play the spare block part by ear lol. I just thought if their wasn't any clearance issues with the internals, that using your method on the oil pan would work. It would be easy to replace the pan and try again. Thanks for your input, I will let you know the end result.
John great video! I have to say RUclips and Google can be your best friend when you have people like you John puting trust worthy install videos. You made my turbo install that much easier. Not to mention pepboys speed shop isn't annoyed any more with questions. One question tho. How much boost are you running ? And the does the fitting stay tight under higher boost conditions? Say 15 to 30 psi.?
@@jeffreyheelan4850 Hi Jeffrey Thanks for the kind words!! If the engine internals are stock 10 PSI is in the danger zone depending fuel choice, the tuning map, and your elevation above sea level. I regularly ran 11 PSI with stock internals on E85 fuel with a custom tune at 5000 (five thousand) feet above sea level and up. I experimented with 15 PSI breaking OEM pistons. The higher your elevation the more boost you can usually run before detonation occurs. The most common failure is a head gasket if the operator does not fully warm the engine before applying boost. Next to fail is usually pistons or connecting rods if they are not upgraded. If you boost enough to cause detonation something has to give. I have blown up many engines with turbos and boost. E85 fuel works great with boost because it removes massive amounts of intake charge heat in order vaporize reducing chances of detonation. E85 also burns slower and cooler than gasoline producing less peak cylinder pressure with a longer burn duration increasing low RPM torque. You need to run E85 compatible motor oil and change it more frequently as it will develop high levels of acidity from running E85. You also need E85 injectors, tuning and possibly a special fuel pump, tank and lines. You can run a blend of E85 with regular fuel. A good test might be adding 2 gallons of E85 to a tank already containing 8-10 gallons of premium fuel. I suggest you carefully monitor the air fuel ratio using a wideband oxygen sensor. The oil return hose I used is rated for 300 PSI. I have not had a problem with the hose or fittings on the oil return. The main worry at higher boost is engine mechanical breakage not hose or fitting failure on the oil return line. You can put clamps on the hose for extra security. Did you blow it up yet? Have fun Jeffrey and good luck!!
if it's only rated for 250 f. then I'd never use it! I have measured return oil Temps from turbos under load on dyna at 300+ f. hydronic line will handle a min of 350 f even the cheap hose... also I have seen this exact hose melted thur on a twin turbo mustag. so do what ya want but do say I didn't warn ya... I've done this stuff for years and seen all kinds a failures. do it right once n it last a lot longer
John I've been searching for a video on where to drill my oil pan for a twin turbo setup (oil return) on a 5.3 LS 1 engine, have you ever done one of these oil pans, and if so where is the best place to drill. Thanks in advance.
I don't if you very much about vws but.. I cannot find anywhere for the life of me to make a oil line feed and an oil line return for my engine no one really turbos that engine but I am and I don't know where to tap in for oil feel and where to tap in for return any suggestions?
Artemis Prime Which VW engine are you building? On most engines oil feed can be taken from the oil pressure sender port using a tee fitting. VW has factory turbo inline 4 cylinders and you can copy their oil return. I you are building a flat 4 cylinder you can learn from a Subaru turbo setup.
If you don't have a return line where would the oil go to? Oil is constantly going into the turbo so it has to come out and drain somewhere. If the oil doesn't drain from the turbo it's going to forced into the engine and burned with the air/fuel mixture. The oil in the mixture would then lower the octane rating of the fuel mixture and the results would be detonation and catastrophic engine failure
Why even drill the block?.... I purchased an oem pan, drilled it and put a sandwich type an-10 fuel filter in it.. Just need to make sure you drill in a place that the portion inside the pan wont be touching the engine. I'd say for most cars this wouldn't be an issue..
+ion123456 In my experience if you return oil below the oil level in the pan it will back up into the turbo and overload the turbo shaft seals causing excess oil burning and a lot of smoke out the exhaust. This is why I drill the block.
Please stop making diy video's, pretending to know what you're doing. -restricted oil feed is not good to effectively cool an oil cooled turbo -8an oil drain is too small and will cause problems if you use the right size oil feed -almost horizontal oil drain line will cause even more problems -drilling in your engine block with only a paper towel to protect the insides from the dust -removing the rubber driveshaft damper because it was in the way of your horizontal oil drain There are people out there copying your work from these youtube diy video's, because they think you are somekind of pro. You will kill your turbo with oil setups like these, and soon enough kill your engine along with it
![Turbo Oil Drain Do's and Don'ts. No More RTV! [Tech Tip Tuesday]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5hz4_ZZDARg/mqdefault.jpg)
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
If you grease the drill bit and spin it slowly it will hold the chips and prevent them from flying around in the engine.
Very good write up John! You made the video so easy and simple.
When you talk with guys who rebuild turbos, a lot of the time they avoid the restrictor and just want at least a 20mm flow return opening and fittings to clear the build up of oil, I don't think it's advisable limiting the oil, just a good return flow would stop a smoking turbo! Great video and the direct return is the way to go.
Ball bearing turbo's require a restrictor on their 3AN feeds; manufacturer's usually mention what size
Finally a video with normal english
Welding if done properly should work equally well. I have reused the same fitting on three different engine blocks now. In my case I prefer bolt on. Yes, issues can occur drilling into the block. You must be careful to avoid critical areas like oil galley's, main bearing caps, connecting rods and the crankshaft.
I think this method is fine for most but if you are anal like me.... I clean the area on the inside where the drills will come through then place a small cap from WD40 or paint can in that area and blob it with quick setting urethane, wait till it hardens and easy clean up afterwards.
heads up, pushlock is not made for temps and condition such as a turbo return line. Use hydrolic line. it will last much longer, has and inner lining protected by steel braiding and then outer. and has the same fitting you used.
+Brent Shaw You are wrong Brent. Earl's Super Stock Hose is
manufactured from a high-quality synthetic rubber reinforced by a full
coverage interior braided fabric sheath. The inner liner has been
reformulated to be more tolerant of modern pump gas additives. Rated at
250 psi and 250° F continuous service. Suitable for fuel, oil, and
water; do not use this hose with brake fluid.
You are right ,Josh. As aformer EATON AEROQUIP dealer I can confirm that theres special hoses that meet this application
I'll be following your lead in regard to the fittings selection - great work.
Love the video quality so clear :)
What if my return line is broken? What are the bad sides?
-8an is a little small for a turbo drain. -10an is better size for most applications
Are you sure? -8 is SAE 1/2... which has tons of flow
enterBJ40 too small for my holset,i need 10an..
@@vincevegacustoms8860 actually for a holset they require a hell of a return line, 16mm is too small for a holset. factory mitsubishi inside diameter is 16mm. an fittings are not advisable.
It has giving a fear idea where the hoses go I'm new to this but it's good knowledge to know
great point
oil drain above the oil level
One of my old turbo setups I had the drain too close to the oil in the sump and it was an embarrassing lesson to learn.
Crazy Masina what happened bro?
Yeah, what happened?
My oil return line came off my turbo. When I was troubleshooting, I noticed the engine sounded like it didn't have a muffler when the return line was off. It also blew hot air out of the turbo where the line was. Is this normal? I didn't run the engine for more than a few seconds, so no oil came out, just hot, fairly pressurized air.
Great question AFHero66!! Anything coming out of the turbo will of course be hot. The sound described could be excessive exhaust back pressure making its way backwards past the Turbo impeller seal and out the turbo oil drain. You may have a restricted catalytic converter or muffler. I would suggest measuring exhaust pressure at the oxygen sensor fitting downstream of the turbo. Drill a test hole in the exhaust pipe between the turbo and catalytic converter if needed to measure the pressure. There are many videos on diagnosing a plugged catalytic converter. If the sound is coming out of the oil return line rather than the turbo oil drain you may have a broken piston. A broken piston would usually be accompanied by misfire at idle. Good Luck!!!
@@jbl212 I pulled the cat off just to check the turbo and everything looked great...until I touched the turbine with my finger and it just rattled around. The new turbo is on its way. lol This also maybe explains why the exhaust gasses were exiting out the oil drain tube. And ofc my oil feed tube was cooked too. Summation: No oil to lubricate the turbo, got hot, blew up, and now my $20 fix just went up to $600. :) Thanks for your response.
looks like you really know waht youre doing and cover all angles.
was that a copper crush washer too?
Essentially you could just plug up the valve you placed on the side of the block if you ever decide to revert back to non-turbo?
Hello I'm from Indonesia, I'm trying to install turbo on motorcycle.. I'm using ihi turbocharger. How to measure the different between inlet oil and outlet?.. there are 3 hole at the body.. txs for ur time..
The oil outlet is usually much larger than the inlet with a 2 bolt flange because oil tends to foam and expand inside the spinning turbo and the extra large hole allows the foamed expanded oil to flow properly when exiting the turbo. Most IHI turbos have 4 holes with 2 for coolant circulation in and out of equal size. The smallest of the 4 holes is the high pressure oil inlet and if you spray WD-40 into the oil inlet it will flow out the larger oil outlet. You can also check the service manual for the vehicle that the turbo is from to identify each hole. If this does not answer your question feel free to send me pictures by email at jb21126@gmail.com and I will do my best to help you identify the the holes. Good Luck!!
Okay, tomorrow I will send u picture of turbocharger so my problem could be solved..
I'm already sent pictures to your email.. txs for your kindness..
Like the tip of the fire sleeve.
I'm looking to turbo my Sohc d16 soon. I've seen some people weld the fitting to the pan. Does the anaerobic sealer work just as good as welding? And are there any issues that can occur by drilling into the block?
y not just drill the hole in the oil pan so you dont mess up a block
Bryan Teet because it wouldn’t drain properly
Technically he didn't drill it into the block. The engine has like a cast oilpan with a smaller oilpan bolted onto the bottom. Many other engines with normal oil pans you can drill the return into the oilpan. If you can get near the crankshaft level
Have you had any issues with the AN fitting getting loose from engine vibration?
Only reason I ask is because I have AN fitting running from my valve cover to an oil catch and sometimes loosen up because of engine vibration.
Nice work and great explanations! 👍👍
What happen when the fitting is lower than oil level.. i hope sombdy will answer me.. thank you so much
the oil wont drain...
It is possible that if the oil wont drain... oil will come out to trottle body???
Hijan Radin its possible if you have bad turbo oil seals
Thank you so much
Hey man!!! I liked the video! Still slightly worried about doing this job... not sure why though!
What is the other two holes for on the turbo
my drain line from the turbo is a few inches below where its bolted into the oil pan, will that hurt anything?
What are your thoughts on marking the oil line on the pan, and drilling into the pan? Then doing your method?
If by "oil line" you mean oil level you are on the right path. You must return oil above the oil level in the pan or crankcase so that it does not back up into the turbo. You must also consider the "dynamic" oil level under acceleration- that is the level where oil will roll up to or down to in the pan while accelerating. To combat this you can lengthen the return line further into the pan or raise the position if possible. The other challenge is having enough slope or draft in the return line to provide gravity flow. There must never be any kinks in the return line. I suggest removing the pan to drill.
John Broderick Yes, I was going to remove the pan, clean it, then fill it with and equal amount of quarts of water to simulate the oil level. Then mark where that line would be, and go from there.
Matt Neihart
Good idea Matt. Maybe you can get some spare pans and see if there is a residual oil level mark in the pan before cleaning. Then think about dynamic oil roll. If you need a longer fitting into the pan you can use a "Bulkhead" fitting and even trim it to an angle if you like. One pan could have the entire bottom cut out for interference checking with rods, etc. A spare engine would be nice if it's in the budget to check interference as well. You may need the spare engine later based on my experience!
John Broderick I think I will get an extra pan, just to see how everything looks clearance wise. I will have to play the spare block part by ear lol. I just thought if their wasn't any clearance issues with the internals, that using your method on the oil pan would work. It would be easy to replace the pan and try again. Thanks for your input, I will let you know the end result.
John great video! I have to say RUclips and Google can be your best friend when you have people like you John puting trust worthy install videos. You made my turbo install that much easier. Not to mention pepboys speed shop isn't annoyed any more with questions. One question tho. How much boost are you running ? And the does the fitting stay tight under higher boost conditions? Say 15 to 30 psi.?
I'm just worried to turn the boost past 10 psi
@@jeffreyheelan4850 Hi Jeffrey Thanks for the kind words!! If the engine internals are stock 10 PSI is in the danger zone depending fuel choice, the tuning map, and your elevation above sea level. I regularly ran 11 PSI with stock internals on E85 fuel with a custom tune at 5000 (five thousand) feet above sea level and up. I experimented with 15 PSI breaking OEM pistons. The higher your elevation the more boost you can usually run before detonation occurs. The most common failure is a head gasket if the operator does not fully warm the engine before applying boost. Next to fail is usually pistons or connecting rods if they are not upgraded. If you boost enough to cause detonation something has to give. I have blown up many engines with turbos and boost. E85 fuel works great with boost because it removes massive amounts of intake charge heat in order vaporize reducing chances of detonation. E85 also burns slower and cooler than gasoline producing less peak cylinder pressure with a longer burn duration increasing low RPM torque. You need to run E85 compatible motor oil and change it more frequently as it will develop high levels of acidity from running E85. You also need E85 injectors, tuning and possibly a special fuel pump, tank and lines. You can run a blend of E85 with regular fuel. A good test might be adding 2 gallons of E85 to a tank already containing 8-10 gallons of premium fuel. I suggest you carefully monitor the air fuel ratio using a wideband oxygen sensor. The oil return hose I used is rated for 300 PSI. I have not had a problem with the hose or fittings on the oil return. The main worry at higher boost is engine mechanical breakage not hose or fitting failure on the oil return line. You can put clamps on the hose for extra security. Did you blow it up yet? Have fun Jeffrey and good luck!!
I havent drove my car in like 3 years do you think the bolts could have loosened?
What gasket did u use on the return line coming off the turbo? Mine is brand new and is already leaking. Bolts r snug.
Does that fitting u used require u to tap the oil pan or is it compression type
E R dont you see the nut on the inside?
if it's only rated for 250 f. then I'd never use it! I have measured return oil Temps from turbos under load on dyna at 300+ f. hydronic line will handle a min of 350 f even the cheap hose... also I have seen this exact hose melted thur on a twin turbo mustag. so do what ya want but do say I didn't warn ya... I've done this stuff for years and seen all kinds a failures. do it right once n it last a lot longer
John I've been searching for a video on where to drill my oil pan for a twin turbo setup (oil return) on a 5.3 LS 1 engine, have you ever done one of these oil pans, and if so where is the best place to drill. Thanks in advance.
Front corners of the oil pan or you can put the returns in the timing cover.
Bad Luck Garage Thanks for the additional information.
no problem
I don't if you very much about vws but.. I cannot find anywhere for the life of me to make a oil line feed and an oil line return for my engine no one really turbos that engine but I am and I don't know where to tap in for oil feel and where to tap in for return any suggestions?
Artemis Prime Which VW engine are you building? On most engines oil feed can be taken from the oil pressure sender port using a tee fitting. VW has factory turbo inline 4 cylinders and you can copy their oil return. I you are building a flat 4 cylinder you can learn from a Subaru turbo setup.
it is the 2.0 AEG
John Broderick i have a water cooled turbo is there any way to determine which hole is for oil and water?
What's the name of that fuel cell fitting?
Nevermind, "Fuel cell bulk head connector -10AN"
That return pipe just going to burn out or rupture due to pressure , fire tape wont protect it long term plus pressure will have effect on this.
Don't the upper sumps have a spot casted just have to drill n tap? 2j that is.
I need ur help with these oil line ... I already have it done but I need 2 know ur opinion on something
JB21126@gmail.com
Was this a volvo engine?
Hi Quincy. This is a Toyota 1NZ engine in a 2001 Toyota MR2 using a Subaru Turbo.
I just ran a T fitting off my oil line
is a return line mandatory?
If you don't have a return line where would the oil go to? Oil is constantly going into the turbo so it has to come out and drain somewhere. If the oil doesn't drain from the turbo it's going to forced into the engine and burned with the air/fuel mixture. The oil in the mixture would then lower the octane rating of the fuel mixture and the results would be detonation and catastrophic engine failure
Is this on a volvo engine?
This is a Toyota engine with a Subaru turbo added.
Where can i buy this?
You can buy the individual pieces from Jegs, Summit eBay or Amazon.
Do you mind listing all the parts you used?
Good idea Sammy. I will work on making a list when I have some more spare time. Thanks!
what car?
great video! thanks for the tips
great video. very helpful
You should make a kit and sell it. Put me in for one, no joke.
Nice work.
Why even drill the block?.... I purchased an oem pan, drilled it and put a sandwich type an-10 fuel filter in it.. Just need to make sure you drill in a place that the portion inside the pan wont be touching the engine. I'd say for most cars this wouldn't be an issue..
+ion123456 In my experience if you return oil below the oil level in the pan it will back up into the turbo and overload the turbo shaft seals causing excess oil burning and a lot of smoke out the exhaust. This is why I drill the block.
Jesus you could teach these kids a thing or too these days the things I see them do is ridiculous
You had me right up until you used about 10 times to much loctite 518. What a mess inside and out that made! Otherwise it was beautiful work!
Please stop making diy video's, pretending to know what you're doing.
-restricted oil feed is not good to effectively cool an oil cooled turbo
-8an oil drain is too small and will cause problems if you use the right size oil feed
-almost horizontal oil drain line will cause even more problems
-drilling in your engine block with only a paper towel to protect the insides from the dust
-removing the rubber driveshaft damper because it was in the way of your horizontal oil drain
There are people out there copying your work from these youtube diy video's, because they think you are somekind of pro. You will kill your turbo with oil setups like these, and soon enough kill your engine along with it
restricted oil feed is ok but 8an return is not
so tell us how it is right please
Now try doing that with 8" of space
Nice.
THANKS!
Well done video....but now i get and and about to ruin a good car with confidence.
Like it !
Got a Volvo for cheap cause some one messed this up. Engine is covered in silicone garbage