I recently bought one of these. Expensive as hell and certainly not worth it if perhaps you make brake lines once every two years, but it kicks ass if you are regularly making a variety of hard lines. I mainly got it for doing 37 degree AN flares, but being able to do quick-connect and AC lines as well really changes how you approach building those types of systems. It also makes some of the nicest and most consistent flares I've seen, and leaves very little marring on the tube surface compared to your typical brake line flaring tools.
Thanks for sharing this. I may break down and buy this if I cannot find a smaller kit. I have an issue with the replacement GM power steering lines. The Compression flare ring (your push-to-connect demo) is there, but not "pronounced" enough to hold rubber lines on the aluminum despite having the small crip clamps. Most likely a manufacturing defect. The replacement lines cost $130 compared to the GM OEM lines, which I may look into next. I think draining the system a 3rd time and enhancing the flares with this tool may be easier than pulling the 3 lines out and replacing them. Anyway, thank you again for sharing!
If you ever do another one of these videos show the die and what size it is and location and marking in the box on what size its listed. Some close ups on placing the fuel line in the die and the height that the line needs to be in the die before making the flare would be very helpful.
That fitting you just made is same type that on my 2010 sonata power steering high pressure line that just broke on my car and most other line tools wont make that type
I bought one of these off of ebaf but its Matco. I had no idea how it worked and it has collected dust for a lot of years I finally broke it out for my Coronet RT that I have been restoring. There was no instructions with it . I was wondering how the GM quick connect worked. I do have one die missing I need to get this kit has been rode hard and put out wet its very dirty and rusty but I messed with a little last night for a inverted flare. But again I dont have any instructions. I like your style of video very simple and laid out and you showed the application for the quick connect thanks
That type line is also on my 2010 sonata GLS power steering high pressure line both ends and it pita too make, so I'll watch you make it I have borrowed my friends hydraulic line compression tool
Hi again see that line in your hands of fuel type line Now reduce the tip were 0 ring goes to 0.196 smaller, cause that type line on my sonata so fits in hole in casting inside with O ring on line
I normally use the flat face of another die to set the pipe flush. The NiCop line is very soft also. I rarely have issue with the steel lines. They have update the dies slightly over the years and they may be better now. Thanks for watching.
Hi Chad, it looks like I missed this video when you put it out. I have the Dorman nylon line kit, but those pesky quick connect fittings for mating to steel lines are still an obstacle. I would love to have the Mastercool kit but it's pretty expensive for the few times I would use it. I see people using compression fittings, but their poor reputation for brake lines makes me wonder if compression fittings are even legal for typical low pressure fuel lines. Do you know, would compression fuel fittings that aren't leaking fail an inspection in Colorado?
I’ve always had good luck with compression fittings on fuel lines and many times that is how we repair lines. The fuel system is rarely above 70 psi and brake systems reach much higher pressures.
@@ThePracticalMechanic I'm so glad to hear that, because the Dorman kit does include a few compression fittings for steel line on one end and hose barbs for nylon on the other end. So, it should work fine without needing another expensive tool.
If I don't buy this tool I'll probably go with Swagelok or Titan compression fittings. I used stainless steel fuel line before I realized I couldn't flare it to 45 degrees.
What I do is use the GM fuel line flaring die and I only partially flare it. This leave a nice bump in the line to secure fuel lines in low pressure systems.
@@ThePracticalMechanic I'm going to try that with my master cool flaring kit. I was actually thinking the same thing, because the 3/8 hose fits so well on the fuel line fully flared. It just doesn't have a barb at the end. Thank you!
Trying to do the seal line underneath the car so I can put a quick connect in plastic line to take my two will not make the flyer on the steel line anybody got any ideas the hydraulic tools to go so far and it’s so hard to push anymore
Now your not done with it cut it off closer to compress area dimple in but by lip for O ring to sit there on line, then re- flair end. 002 for push in to power steering unit then nut slide to thread it tight
Sticky Cricket the line gets stuck almost every time. While the line is still clamped in the jaws I pry the die off the line. Some wd40 helps but it still gets stuck.
Dan Irvine the problem I normally have is the die gets stuck on the line and not in the clamp. I tried several ways of removing the die after releasing the clamp only to realize that it was easier to just leave it clamped and pop it off with a screwdriver.
5:12 evil spirit channeling in ...lol nice video cheers learnt something
Ha!! I’m guessing an audio channel didn’t get muted. Thanks for checking it out.
I recently bought one of these. Expensive as hell and certainly not worth it if perhaps you make brake lines once every two years, but it kicks ass if you are regularly making a variety of hard lines. I mainly got it for doing 37 degree AN flares, but being able to do quick-connect and AC lines as well really changes how you approach building those types of systems. It also makes some of the nicest and most consistent flares I've seen, and leaves very little marring on the tube surface compared to your typical brake line flaring tools.
Its worth it to me even though I dont work on cars much anymore but its one of those tools that when you need it you have it😉
Thanks for sharing this. I may break down and buy this if I cannot find a smaller kit. I have an issue with the replacement GM power steering lines. The Compression flare ring (your push-to-connect demo) is there, but not "pronounced" enough to hold rubber lines on the aluminum despite having the small crip clamps. Most likely a manufacturing defect. The replacement lines cost $130 compared to the GM OEM lines, which I may look into next. I think draining the system a 3rd time and enhancing the flares with this tool may be easier than pulling the 3 lines out and replacing them. Anyway, thank you again for sharing!
If you ever do another one of these videos show the die and what size it is and location and marking in the box on what size its listed. Some close ups on placing the fuel line in the die and the height that the line needs to be in the die before making the flare would be very helpful.
That fitting you just made is same type that on my 2010 sonata power steering high pressure line that just broke on my car and most other line tools wont make that type
I bought one of these off of ebaf but its Matco. I had no idea how it worked and it has collected dust for a lot of years I finally broke it out for my Coronet RT that I have been restoring. There was no instructions with it . I was wondering how the GM quick connect worked. I do have one die missing I need to get this kit has been rode hard and put out wet its very dirty and rusty but I messed with a little last night for a inverted flare. But again I dont have any instructions. I like your style of video very simple and laid out and you showed the application for the quick connect thanks
That type line is also on my 2010 sonata GLS power steering high pressure line both ends and it pita too make, so I'll watch you make it I have borrowed my friends hydraulic line compression tool
I have the kit. My issue is, the dies are so poorly labeled, i dont know what die does what for the fuel fitting and push connect.
Hi again see that line in your hands of fuel type line Now reduce the tip were 0 ring goes to 0.196 smaller, cause that type line on my sonata so fits in hole in casting inside with O ring on line
Bought this kit recently. I hate the old way of flaring. Plan is to use it, think about keeping it, or selling it on eBay.
Also the power steering lines use these fittings
First flare used on GM diesel lines. Heard it called saginaw
What the other end can you make that knurl on that end or no?
@@yolisurich4025 it will not make the mating end to this flare. This flare is used on most GM fuel filters so the mate is premade.
@@ThePracticalMechanic the other end is the part I want to make.
You have the pipe hanging out too far and that is why it crushes sometimes. The tubing end should be flush with the outer face of the die, right?
I normally use the flat face of another die to set the pipe flush. The NiCop line is very soft also. I rarely have issue with the steel lines. They have update the dies slightly over the years and they may be better now.
Thanks for watching.
Hi Chad, it looks like I missed this video when you put it out. I have the Dorman nylon line kit, but those pesky quick connect fittings for mating to steel lines are still an obstacle. I would love to have the Mastercool kit but it's pretty expensive for the few times I would use it. I see people using compression fittings, but their poor reputation for brake lines makes me wonder if compression fittings are even legal for typical low pressure fuel lines. Do you know, would compression fuel fittings that aren't leaking fail an inspection in Colorado?
I’ve always had good luck with compression fittings on fuel lines and many times that is how we repair lines. The fuel system is rarely above 70 psi and brake systems reach much higher pressures.
@@ThePracticalMechanic I'm so glad to hear that, because the Dorman kit does include a few compression fittings for steel line on one end and hose barbs for nylon on the other end. So, it should work fine without needing another expensive tool.
I’ll add a fuel line repair option video to my list. I have few other tools as well and it would be nice to see the differences.
If I don't buy this tool I'll probably go with Swagelok or Titan compression fittings. I used stainless steel fuel line before I realized I couldn't flare it to 45 degrees.
Is there a die to flare a nipple on steel fuel line, for fuel hose to slide on to it and be clamped?
What I do is use the GM fuel line flaring die and I only partially flare it. This leave a nice bump in the line to secure fuel lines in low pressure systems.
@@ThePracticalMechanic I'm going to try that with my master cool flaring kit. I was actually thinking the same thing, because the 3/8 hose fits so well on the fuel line fully flared. It just doesn't have a barb at the end. Thank you!
@@rickgreen9619 send me an email to admin@thepracticalmechanic.com and I’ll send a picture of the ones I just did.
Trying to do the seal line underneath the car so I can put a quick connect in plastic line to take my two will not make the flyer on the steel line anybody got any ideas the hydraulic tools to go so far and it’s so hard to push anymore
Does this do AC lines? Looks the same
Great tool here, it appears like one that can do a top notch job
Ford uses quick connect transmission lines i'm wondering if this tool can make those?
yes
Now your not done with it cut it off closer to compress area dimple in but by lip for O ring to sit there on line, then re- flair end. 002 for push in to power steering unit then nut slide to thread it tight
will this do a double flare for old buick fuel lines?
If your talking about the flare required for the old mechanical fuel pumps or union fittings then yes it will.
@@ThePracticalMechanic thank you. I just ordered one.
What kind of line do you use, I used a 5/16" steel line and it was permanently stuck inside the 5/16" cylindrical die.
Sticky Cricket the line gets stuck almost every time. While the line is still clamped in the jaws I pry the die off the line. Some wd40 helps but it still gets stuck.
If you're going to do a lot of this work, get some dark thread cutting oil, small utility brush's & paint thin coat on die before use..
one way to release the die without your screw driver is back off the screw holding the dies up top
Dan Irvine the problem I normally have is the die gets stuck on the line and not in the clamp. I tried several ways of removing the die after releasing the clamp only to realize that it was easier to just leave it clamped and pop it off with a screwdriver.
Can that fuel line crimp used for A/C hard lines ?
AC hard lines normally are larger and have different flares. This tool although made by mastercool does not work for AC.