When I got my Zach Myers I changed the nut straight away, The stock one was binding and I figured I'd replace it and keep the original for backup. Anyway, at the time I got a Tusq XL nut. It needed quite a bit of sanding off the bottom to reach a good height and width was a bit skinny. It's been a year and I figured I'd try one of these Tone Ninja nuts. I was a bit skeptical, no one except ATG has reviewed it properly. It arrived today, so I removed the tusqXL and prepped the nut shelf. Put the Ninja Nut in without gluing, tuned up the guitar to see what the nut action was like. It was pretty much spot on, with 3rd fret held you can just slide a business card under the first fret. Let go of the business card and it is just held in place. Removed the nut, noticed how slippery it is, filed it down along my fret level mostly to roughen up the base because it is so slippery and glued it on. Tuned up the guitar, checked intonation and it was spot on with the graphtec I spent a lot of time tweaking. So this was the easiest nut install ever. I think the plastic material is a bit softer than TusqXL it sounds less brittle when you drop it on my desk. But the guitar sounds great. If you want a new nut and no fuss, this worked great on my Zach myers just like Addicted To Gear Says.
I bought these for my bc rich kkv and the knobs or buttons are alot smaller than the original one's and it is going to look stupid so im not using them 😢
So, I got a used 2019 Tremonti SE... Had a Tusq nut and locking tuners and straps as upgrades. The action was ridiculously high on some strings I thought. Maybe that's why the dude sold it so cheap? But I'm wondering if getting a nut for a guitar with a different neck radius does that. The outside strings seemed Way high and the inside ones closer to playable. Do they come cut with a particular radius?
Would you suggest this Tone Ninja instead of a Graphtech? I have a Prs se standard...looking forward to change the nut and I'm curious about this Tone Ninja.
I heard Eric Johnson say that he didn’t really care what the nut material was, as long as it did it’s job and let the string pass thru!!!...so there’s that nut myth busted!!!
Brass is a horrible material to use for a nut -- here's why -- it's a very soft metal, and the slots will start to get "cut" just by bending the strings...and if you have a tremolo, forget about using a brass nut. It might sound nice but it won't last. This is the reason why Gibson switched from brass on the 2015 models to Titanium on the 2016 models. My personal opinion -- I prefer Tusq. It's more consistent than bone, and will last forever. Only downside is, if you bend / trem a lot you'll have to use lubrication. Not a big deal but still a con.
Material selection is a very personal choice depending on what you are trying to achieve with the instrument. In some guitars Titanium may work while on others it would be way to bright. I don't think that there is one solution that would fit all applications. If there was everyone would be using it. Thanks for watching
Dude i have used only brass and aluminum nuts on my guitars(cut by me).Apart from the fact that they look cooler than regular nuts they function just as well...they dont get filled from the strings, the only nuts that are huge suspects of that, are cheap soft plastic ones. Every other time you change strings, u can give them a quick polish if you want, that not only ll bring out their awesome looks but ll make them even slickier for their function....so no dude....they ll last more that you and i will.. By the way, everytime you fret a note, that fret registers as the nut for the split second you hold the string down....and that fret is not made of bone(have u thought about why is that?) but from a combination of METAL alloys that one of them is brass....so even if sound wise there was a difference....you 98% of the time hear metal nuts(meaning your frets) anyway and if you use a metallic nut its 100% of the time...big fucking deal...thats all folks.
When I got my Zach Myers I changed the nut straight away, The stock one was binding and I figured I'd replace it and keep the original for backup. Anyway, at the time I got a Tusq XL nut. It needed quite a bit of sanding off the bottom to reach a good height and width was a bit skinny.
It's been a year and I figured I'd try one of these Tone Ninja nuts. I was a bit skeptical, no one except ATG has reviewed it properly. It arrived today, so I removed the tusqXL and prepped the nut shelf. Put the Ninja Nut in without gluing, tuned up the guitar to see what the nut action was like. It was pretty much spot on, with 3rd fret held you can just slide a business card under the first fret. Let go of the business card and it is just held in place.
Removed the nut, noticed how slippery it is, filed it down along my fret level mostly to roughen up the base because it is so slippery and glued it on. Tuned up the guitar, checked intonation and it was spot on with the graphtec I spent a lot of time tweaking.
So this was the easiest nut install ever. I think the plastic material is a bit softer than TusqXL it sounds less brittle when you drop it on my desk. But the guitar sounds great. If you want a new nut and no fuss, this worked great on my Zach myers just like Addicted To Gear Says.
I bought these for my bc rich kkv and the knobs or buttons are alot smaller than the original one's and it is going to look stupid so im not using them 😢
So, I got a used 2019 Tremonti SE... Had a Tusq nut and locking tuners and straps as upgrades. The action was ridiculously high on some strings I thought. Maybe that's why the dude sold it so cheap? But I'm wondering if getting a nut for a guitar with a different neck radius does that. The outside strings seemed Way high and the inside ones closer to playable. Do they come cut with a particular radius?
I'm waiting for my tone ninja nut from amazon... not prime, doh.
Would you suggest this Tone Ninja instead of a Graphtech? I have a Prs se standard...looking forward to change the nut and I'm curious about this Tone Ninja.
I would. It made a huge difference on my guitar. Thanks for watching
I heard Eric Johnson say that he didn’t really care what the nut material was, as long as it did it’s job and let the string pass thru!!!...so there’s that nut myth busted!!!
Would you say graphite is way better than plastic?
Yes I would consider graphite to be better.
thanks for the info. Is it also true that 9s strings buzz (fret) more when heavily played than 10+ gauge strings.
If your guitar is properly set up string gauge should not make any difference to how much buzz you hear when playing.
What’s your opinion on these nuts, bought one for my prs se. Yes or no?
Robert Davis yes
Brass is a horrible material to use for a nut -- here's why -- it's a very soft metal, and the slots will start to get "cut" just by bending the strings...and if you have a tremolo, forget about using a brass nut. It might sound nice but it won't last. This is the reason why Gibson switched from brass on the 2015 models to Titanium on the 2016 models. My personal opinion -- I prefer Tusq. It's more consistent than bone, and will last forever. Only downside is, if you bend / trem a lot you'll have to use lubrication. Not a big deal but still a con.
Material selection is a very personal choice depending on what you are trying to achieve with the instrument. In some guitars Titanium may work while on others it would be way to bright. I don't think that there is one solution that would fit all applications. If there was everyone would be using it. Thanks for watching
Dude i have used only brass and aluminum nuts on my guitars(cut by me).Apart from the fact that they look cooler than regular nuts they function just as well...they dont get filled from the strings, the only nuts that are huge suspects of that, are cheap soft plastic ones.
Every other time you change strings, u can give them a quick polish if you want, that not only ll bring out their awesome looks but ll make them even slickier for their function....so no dude....they ll last more that you and i will..
By the way, everytime you fret a note, that fret registers as the nut for the split second you hold the string down....and that fret is not made of bone(have u thought about why is that?) but from a combination of METAL alloys that one of them is brass....so even if sound wise there was a difference....you 98% of the time hear metal nuts(meaning your frets) anyway and if you use a metallic nut its 100% of the time...big fucking deal...thats all folks.
I thought Tusq was self lubricating.