CHANGING A CAMSHAFT SYNCHRONIZER ~ 2003 FORD F-150 4.2L (ERROR CODE PO340)
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- Опубликовано: 24 янв 2023
- I was experiencing periodic hesitation and engine stumbling issues on my 2003 Ford F-150 4.2 L engine. I decided to have a look at the camshaft synchronizer. Here's what I found.
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I fix my own cars, renovate houses, tinker with almost everything, cut my own firewood, take short trips into the wilderness, dabble in computers, drag innumerable objects, vehicles and other things home to dismantle, discover and repair, and then I share the adventures and tips with my viewers here on RUclips. Join Me!
Disclaimer: IMPORTANT! READ!: This video may portray household, construction, automotive or other repair methods and/or activities that may not be suitable for everyone. These videos are informative but are for entertainment purposes only. Always use certified contractors, licensed mechanics, qualified electricians and professionally certified tradespeople to perform any work. Follow the advice of your local building inspector and get appropriate permits before undertaking any repairs or electrical work. Please follow all safety precautions and local Codes. Viewers are advised not to undertake any of the actions in these videos themselves. Everyday Projects cannot be held responsible for any damage, injury or claim resulting from information or instruction gleaned from these videos, whether expressed or implied.
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A cam shaft what!? 😂 I was about to scream when you sayd, I wonder if I should change it while I'm here!😆
Good one Craig✌
I'm glad you didn't scream...Haha A camshaft synchronizer replaces the distributor on these engines and was a newer way to send spark to the plugs, but uses the same base as a distributor including the oil pump drive and the gear on the end of the camshaft to drive it. Only the top is changed to eliminate the rotor and the distributor cap containing the spark plug connections. The camshaft synchronizer sends an electrical impulse to the engine control module that in turn sends a corresponding signal to the coil to fire the plug. It's unlikely you'll find a distributer cap on many vehicles after mid 2005 since they have all switched to this and similar methods of ignition.
How's she goin'? Well buddy you made this job look pretty easy. But when I hear about things like 'camshaft synchronizing', well I kind of shake a little and say, "We better take this to the garage". Good on you for tackling this problem. By the sounds of the engine afterwards, you got the problem. Thanks for sharing and the tips you added will be very helpful if someone were to take on this task!! Take care!!
I shook the whole way through the job!! But I made it. Thanks Mike, Now you'll know how to do this job when it pops up, eh.
Great job tackling this, it did not look like an easy job to access the synchronizer. It is hard to imagine doing this without the tool
Most new synchronizers come with the plastic tool. Like you say, without the tool, it's a guess as to the timing being correct.
Well I learned something today ✔️💯👏🏽
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Nice to see you Renaldo...👍
You are one patient and talented guy! When I saw that synchronizer looking so much like a distributor, all I can think of is tearing all the electronics out and trying a carb and breaker points. Hats off for learning the system and how to work on the thing! I've got sort of the opposite happening with my Passat wagon. It'll start and idle just fine but when you're trying to just cruise along it stumbles and acts up. When you stomp it, it takes off like nothing is wrong. In my testing, I've seen the injectors doing odd things and the way I was testing takes the ignition completely out of the equation. There was no power to anything besides a hotwire to the fuel pump to do the test on the injectors.
The synchronizer was only partially to blame for the hesitation, as it turns out. It was good to replace it because of the oil contamination that will lead to a failure eventually, but there is some other issue that I am still trying to sort out. It hasn't thrown a code--yet, so it makes discovery difficult. I have started looking into the air intake system where it mixed EGR gas. There is a system of ports and butterfly valves in a plastic, upper intake manifold that is known to cause similar issues, so that's where I've been pointing myself. It will be disappointing if at the end of all this I discover a loose plug wire or something equally simple and overlooked, but I think the problem is deeper and hopefully will be revealed soon.
@@EverydayProjects Have you been over it for vacuum leaks and fuel pressure? If you have a way to pull your injectors and check the spray pattern too. Is there a way to monitor your fuel pressure while driving? This is all rookie advice and it's all I've got.
@@heliarche Good advice. I wanted to get in and check the synchronizer because it had failed before and the hesitation seemed similar. Some of the symptoms indicate among other things, a clogged fuel filter or injector, a failing fuel pump and defective spark plug wires. Also, the intake manifold runner control system (IMRC) that allows the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) to work properly is indicated as a possibility. With no codes I'm working my way through until I throw enough parts at it to bend the frame or dent a door. Hahaha
@@heliarche I'm also on the edge of making a smoke tester for an evap test. I have all the components just not the energy to put it all together. It will be a copy of ones I've seen built from 4" PVC waste pipe with a wick inside and a coil of resistance wire wrapped on it. They burn baby oil and do quite well to determine evap leaks. Just another way to check for things but probably not the issue on this truck.
@@EverydayProjects I did kind of the same thing on my Passat. I used a glow plug and pickle juice. The smoker along with blowing ether all around the running engine pretty well confirmed no vacuum leaks. It'd be nice if you make that smoker and find a line or a port that's unplugged and that's your problem.
Did you have to drain all the coolant from the radiator or when you take the coolant hose off will just a small amount of coolant leak from the hose? I watched your other video on this and it seemed you pulled plug and drained all coolant but here you didn't show doing that. Is it necessary? Thanks for the tutorials!
You can get away with draining the coolant down to where it won't flow out of the thermostat housing. I like to fill the coolant back up to the thermostat when I'm done to eliminate an air bubble behind the thermostat. If you have to wait for an engine to get hot enough to open the thermostat when the thermostat is sitting in the air bubble, the engine can get extremely hot. This way, it is subjected to the water temperature and opens when it should, protecting the engine from extreme temperature.
Is it dangerous or bad to drive a car with these kind of issues or p0340 code?
If you have a code P0340 you will soon have the vehicle stalling and difficult to start, if you don't have them already. My advice would be to get the vehicle diagnosed by a competent mechanic ASAP. If the vehicle presented these symptoms on the road it could cause the vehicle to stall or stop running anywhere.
@EverydayProjects yea it seems like that's the smart thing. My friend is asking for help so gonna look into that part but she wants to keep driving it and I told her not to. Thanks for your response. Super helpful videos.
@@cdotson0027 Best to have it checked.🙂
My half moon got destroyed
Ouch!!! Time for a new synchronizer.
@Everyday Projects yeah just ordered it...hopefully it won't be too hard
@@stevenmorales9063 I made another video when I changed that camshaft synchronizer again this year: ruclips.net/video/LYHA6J8Ab9s/видео.html