Thanks Keith. Some of the things that you do, and make it sound like no big deal, would be almost overwhelming to me. Plus, I don't have anywhere near the kind of shop equipment that you have. The folks that benefit from your work are mighty blessed to have you.
Hello Keith, you have a really calm, reassuring and avuncular style that makes a daunting task like this for the beginner into something they feel they can do. Keep making the videos!
"The finish looks okay I don't like the way the chips look"...that is mastery... I want that bad... Working hard to get get there someday. Thank you Keith.
I was thinking about the video where you let us know about your career. For a guy who did NOT spend his career as a machinist, you have amazing machine shop skills. The other machinists I watch all do this full time.
Side Project - Make some wedges to fit that taper bar that can be used to set a given taper. Looks as if they would tuck in nicely and be pretty easy to use.
I did something similar, I cut a number of cylinders of different diameters to set the angle.worked perfectly every time and for tapers that you didn't cover, at least it got you close
Keith, one of the jobs I worked at we had to lap tapered bolts into the holes. There was a particular distance between the head of the bolt and material that you had to adhere to. It was tedious, time consuming job fraught with the hazard of overshooting your tolerance. To the other end of the spectrum at the carpet plant I worked at many of our looms used tapered keys instead of bolts. We kept drawers of premade keys stepping down in sizes on hand. On a weekend, downday or slow moment we would load the fixture with blank keys and cut them in the shaper. Most of the attachments to shafts used them also. The looms were designed in the late 1890s and early 1900s. I sure miss working in the shops. Retired and wore out now. Keep 'em turnin'! Cheers Terry
While Keith's videos are entertaining and educational, I find the comments interesting as well. There are great technical "discussions", plenty of post game coaches and spirited demonstrations of both good and not so good manners.
As soon as Keith said 1 1/4" / foot I also remembered it was the Tally Ho capstan shaft tapers. Also, if you've not been following Tally Ho, it's now on its inaugural shakedown cruise north.
As a kid growing up in the seventies we were self reliant, we built our own pushbikes from whatever parts we could scrounge up or pinch from the local tip, we built all sorts of stuff ourselves, if we didn't do it there was nobody going to do it for us. We left the house after Breakfast with instructions not to come back until lunchtime, even if it was raining. Most times we stayed out until Teatime, no mobile phones, and our parents had no idea where we were or what we were doing, which could be anything from clambering around on derelict buildings, sailing down the local river on a Tractor innertube we got from the tyre centre and repaired the punctures on. We all had sheath knives, pocket knives, airguns and all manner of interesting items. Other than jumping around wasteland and derelict buildings being The Sweeney, or The Professionals and getting the odd pellet of BB in the arse cheek we were fine. We did Paper rounds or worked fruit picking, or the local chicken farm to earn pocket money, or collected old Pop bottles and took them back to collect the 5P deposit, any that were not deposit were used as targets for our Airguns or Catapults. With the odd exception we all reached adulthood as well rounded individuals who were able to do things for themselves
Maybe a set of dial indicators at a fixed distance on the taper attachment would be handy. That way you can just dial it in with those dial indicators. Would be alot more usefull then the dial on the taper attachment itself.
It would be interesting to see you make the next ones with a period lathe of when that locomotive was built to see the process they would have used for tools and what hassles they had to put up with.
Tapered bolts were a trademark of the Baldwin Locomotive Works; but it seems that somebody at Vulcan Iron Works also liked the ideea. The Georgia Museum of Agriculture is lucky to have you, Keith! TM who likes steam locomotives
Did you emery cloth the taper? I saw you use some on the threads. Tapers were always tricky for me - I usually had a sample to chuck in the lathe then ran a dial indicator back and forth until it read 0 for the whole length. Then I knew my taper attachment was right. Once set up, cutting a hundred tapers of the same size was easy but I always held my breath on that first one. I never cut a taper on a brand new machine, but I've heard that factory fresh, the markings on the attachment were right on. Keep up the good work.
Nice instruction on the taper setup! I just bought a 10EE that came with a taper attachment. I fixed the electronics and absolutely love the machine. Now I’ll know how to get that taper attachment going.
To set a taper on a lathe or an external grinder I would set close big or small with backlash out and make a cut. Check cut do the math ratio the cut to the indicator from center on taper attachment move half check part taper. Recheck ratio to move make any adjustments to move and reset cut should be right on. Worked most the time worst case back off and start over same direction I made it work for 50 years manual or cnc. Good luck and enjoy your retirement.
Really great video. Interesting seeing the taper attachment used. I'm not a machinist but really enjoy seeing things made by craftsmen. Always interested in processes.
Good morning Keith, I almost fell off my chair when you were starting the bolts. You were at your lathe, and you put your bolt blank in the lathe to face it off, and after that, you never turned the lathe off to change your tooling to put your chamfer angle on. That is very bad safety practice. If that had slipped out of your hand, it could have turned out badly. I only say this because I have worked in a machine shop for 40 years and have seen a lot of errors like that that didn't turn out well. I only say this for safety, and young people are watching you, and we don't want any bad habits or people getting hurt. I love your videos, and I don't miss any of them, so thanks for sharing.
Measure up 1 foot from the center of the pivot bolt on your taper attachment rail and made a mark. Then you could measure directly over to the edge with calipers and get close very quickly. Alternatively you could lay your reamer along the edge and sight it in.
I enjoy watching you work and you explain the process as well as the results. From the angle as it appears on video, it looks like the bearing is opening wider at the bottom when you drove the tapered bolts to their final resting place?
I suspect that when the tapered bolt was driven home the head should not have bottomed out. The purpose of using a tapered bolt is that it removes all clearance between the bolt and the components that it is passing through. This is important because the bolt is being loaded in shear and the load changes direction twice per revolution of the wheel. If there is any clearance the bolt and the parts it holds together would eventually pound out and become loose. Not that it would be good practice but you should be able to drive the bolt home, tighten the nut on the bottom and then cut the head of the bolt off and it would work as intended. The head of that bolt would only be needed to keep the bolt from turning when you go to tighten/loosen the lower nut.
The google total hit count for "taper micrometer" is 755. When Amazon has 0 and doesn't know enough to fake it other than 'would you like a plain Starrett?,' and Ebay has 3, (plus 2 sets of gauges,) that's a rare tool.
Great work and thanks for the interesting and engaging content. Look forward to your videos all the time. If you start up by the head of that hex and plunge in to the across the flat diameter. You can run the carriage in reverse toward the live center with less vibration to get it beyond the interrupted cut.
24:23 - Could you use a protractor a or gauge blocks (kinda like on a sine bar) either referencing the tool against the work, or the bar with respect to the lathe, to take the guesswork out? I mean I get for a one off part where the taper is not all that precise, but if you were say, making a morse taper or something like that, would it not be easier to get better results that way? By the way, you are looking and sounding terrific Keith, looking forward to seeing you have a long and happy retirement!
Definitely separate's the men form the boys when it comes to expert lathe work. Really appreciate this content. The DRO sure makes things easier. Only had an occasion to cut tapers a couple times on a 10" South Bend, it's not easy!
You must be kidding! If you want to see "expert lathe work" go to Cutting Edge Engineering, or Mattys Workshop, not this Bozo! The only reason a good machinist watches this guy is for laughs!
@@garybrenner6236...and you keep coming back for more and sulking about the stoker engine every episode. You sound like an impatient whining child. Grow up.😢
Great stuff Keith. A suggestion for an episode would be to cover tooling organization, storage, wear-out replacement, and other management topics. The casual mention that you can dip into your collection and smoothly come up with a servicable 1/8 x 12 reamer is maybe the most impressive part of this episode! 😊 I'm sure you take it for granted, but for us struggling amateurs it would be super interesting to know your tricks and techniques.
Hello Keith. Very useful video, thanks! Any chance for a video on making those rod bearings? I may need to make new bearings for a Case Steam tractor very soon.
Shouldn't there be a small gap under the head of the bolt when it is fully tightened to ensure that the taper is fully seated (and to enable future tightening) ?
Hello Keith, I could watch you make all these bolts. This might be an application for Abom's CNC machines, if they weren't all custom for the location. On another project. I've been wondering if the cane mill roller shouldn't have been sandblasted. You had to build up the bearing surfaces anyway, so the gear seating area is the only critical area. If there are any cracks in the roller, they would be easier to find with clean metal. Given the size of this mill, cracks might be significant and best located early. dave
Question: Why would this otherwise off-the-shelf looking threaded bolt require a taper? Why would original designers see a necessity of such precision in a bolt that has no apparent need for the added cost of production? Thank you, Keith. I always enjoy your work. John
I guess the taper is to make sure the strap holding the bushings and the "beam" don't have any lengthwise play (that would quickly destroy the bolts). Could have been ground shoulder bolts/reamed holes, or pressed pins with normal bolts but taper stuff was common at the time and a taper bolt kills 2 birds with 1 stone.
Why isn't there a mother on both sides? Then you can pull the pen in as far as necessary. Plus you wouldn't need a hammer to pull it out. Simply pull out with the top nut. Greetings from Germany
I want to build a steam generator . Something capable of about 5-10 kw of required for about a hour run time. And normal use around 1-2 kw, maybe a Tesla turbine running on the exhaust side spinning a smaller alternator. A 4"-6" thick stack of 10"-12" disc on a 2" hollow shaft. Using brass bushings 2" wide with labyrinth seals on each side. Basically alternating disc with little clearance. .005" or less the brass bushings having a 1.5"-1.625" wide groove fed by pressurized oil. With the oil basically trapped inside. The labyrinth seals slowing the leak. Using the pressure to keep the bushing surfaces apart. Using 0w? Engine oil, or possibly ATF fluid or power steering fluid something thin to allow high rpm. Possibly do test using diesel fuel and oil mix. Being diesel is a oil with lubrication properties to prevent destruction of the pump and injectors. Maybe a 0w something oil mixed 50-60% with diesel. It will only require about 1-2 quarts to do the job. Using a Chevy V8 oil pump. Spinning at just enough rpm to maintain pressure using a pressure sensor and electronic motor control to control the 350 watt DC Motor with a filter cooler and heater controlled by solenoid valves. Using steam to preheat the oil. Then a radiator to cool when the temperature gets hot. Probably only a 8' bit of 3/8-1/2" copper Tobe, with 14 ga copper wire wrapped around it tightly and soldered. Creating cooling fins the bend around a 1x4 and place Infront of a fan. Or use a small oil cooler ., with a 2" shaft spinning 45k rpm likely minimum, possibly in excess of 60k rpm. With the exhaust through the center of the shaft. The oil will require cooling and a roughly 100:1 reduction is required. Low friction. Maybe a planetary arrangement. With polished sour gears. Straight cut, noisy but ok. A sound dampening cover can handle the sound. A disc about .030" thick with a .030" thick spacer. With a .080" slit at a 30°-60° angle leading to a .100" hole , the shaft wall roughly .250" with a .125" key to prevent the disc from slipping. The tiny key being About .062"-.065"deep in the shaft. With two holes 45° from the key to offset the weight. The slit in the spacers aligned twitch the holes and a stack of spacers cut at once along with disc. Spacers epoxied to disc with just enough to stick them together. The stack of holes should allow a 1/2" - 5/8" supply line at 60 psi to run the engine. Using flat nozzles basically a large crayon shape of brass. Drilled on the backside to 75% through with a 3/8" drill. The tip flattened to about 1/4" thick. To look like a thick flat screwdriver. Then a thin slit cut into the drilled portion! Then a .030" stack of feeler gauges placed in the slit and tap the slit closed on the gauges. Allowing them to be pulled out of course. The housing tapped with 1/2" not the brass nozzles threaded to fit inside the pipe fitted into the housing. With about 6-12 placed in two rows with the pipes placed into a 1x2 SQ tube each row, and brazed or welded inducing bolt on flanges per tube. The steam jet should hit the disc at about 1/4"-3/8" wide and 1/8-3/16" from the disc. The tube manifolds fed by a 3/4" line split in two. Or a steam engine using a 12" bore with 6" stroke , at full 150-200 psi that should equal a fair amount of power. Even 100 psi over 12" is 1200 lbs on a 6" lever, even if single acting. It should be plenty of power. And operating at 2000-3000 rpm spinning 24" flywheels being a 3" x 3" ring connected to a center by 6, 2" spokes, to a 4" crank journal with a 10" center hub. Built from foam board sanded sculpted into shape. Even balanced to make balancing of the final product easier. The iron flywheel should be capable of spinning 6k rpm without issues, from balance , ( probably scare ppl to death tho) the peak engine speed being 3200+/- 400 rpm . Likely 1800-2400 use a variable pulley to drive the actual alternator. Get peak rpm even driven at 600 rpm. It seems to me steam engines would make peak TQ at a low RPM. I'm a gas engine guy , and. Looking to use waste oil and scrap wood to generate power Weekly, buying gas or diesel would get spendy. Possibly running 8-12 hours 2-4 day weekly in winter, and use the exhaust passed through radiators in house to condense the water to be reused in a semi closed system. Sorry to ramble, but alternative power is awesome, nothing like the feeling of making your own power. Even if it's only enough for the lights.. you can get a 3phase alternator spin it with a steam engine , making all the power required for the equipment!! Or use solar power and 3phase inverters. Have an awesome day 🎉
James, I like the way you think. Your idea(s) are nicely presented but needs a bit of organization for others ease of understanding What is a sour gear? Did you actally mean spur gear, I got that from context. The noise was the clue. .
No, for a short answer. Search wiki for train connecting rod, sometimes called train coupling rod. As materials (alloys) got better, the taper pins you saw being made were made from lighter alloys. The 'bolt' head you see is to allow disassembly. It does not actually make contact with the surface, it should be proud by a specific amount called out in the trades manuals specific to the locomotive. The reason for the 1/2 extension of the threaded pin is to allow the pins to be removed with the proper type hammer when the rod is being serviced, the head is to hold onto while loosening the jam nut. It is a bit close there where you would be working to do this by using the other nut. The 'bolt' head is not actually used for anything other than to provide a place to hammer the pin home, the nuts are to provide backup places to hammer during removal to "prevent" the thread for getting boogered up, the jam nut is to ensure that there is at least one nut of the pair to pull the pin into the taper since it is a bit hard to hammer up with either hand to mount the pin properly. In other words, the head is a target, the upper nut is a target and the jam nut is to, well, jam it all up.
That gap will suffice for a few years. The first 10,000 revs of the connected wheels should only be break-in for the existing pins to the bronzes. Any wear can be measured with a tapered rule with proper markings. Starett used to make those, refer to the older sales offerings on VM.org for details (again 1/8 | 12 inch was a standard for many British, German and Japanese light rail). And the bolt head should not be flush or below, proud of the rod is correct, the standard is in the older books Keith has shown us. Audel was a great reference since they explained the why of everything they taught.
Out of curiosity, is there any sort of reference surfaces on the taper attachment, where you could set the taper in a similar way to a sine plate? A known distance point from it's pivot, where you could insert some gauge blocks to a certain distance to create the right angle/taper...
I hope not, the punishment these taper pin take each half revolution will destroy any leaded steel which is made as we saw. Stress proof is best in this application.
Thanks for the vid and info. A question that I have but not sure if there is a good answer, why do the bolts come in from the bottom? I have always been taught if possible a bolt should always install from the top so IF the nut comes off the bolt won't fall out.
Concerning setting the taper, wouldn't you be able to zero your taper, move 4" lock the slide, then dial in your taper bar using the dro to the # you wanted. Instead of going back and forth 15 times, little bit at a time, overshooting etc. Maybe you could get it where you wanted in just a recheck or 3. I'm sure there is a reason he didn't do this, but if someone could explain why I'd really like to know.
Thanks Keith. Some of the things that you do, and make it sound like no big deal, would be almost overwhelming to me. Plus, I don't have anywhere near the kind of shop equipment that you have. The folks that benefit from your work are mighty blessed to have you.
It's funny how fast the show goes by when your getting in to it lol.
I wonder when he will be getting into the Stoker Engine.
Always good to wake up and drink a cup of coffee to your videos, Keith. Thanks!
I wonder when we will be having coffee watching the Stoker Engine.
@@garybrenner6236 It'll get there eventually, I suspect!
Hello Keith, you have a really calm, reassuring and avuncular style that makes a daunting task like this for the beginner into something they feel they can do. Keep making the videos!
"The finish looks okay I don't like the way the chips look"...that is mastery... I want that bad... Working hard to get get there someday. Thank you Keith.
I did not know there was such a thing as a taper micrometer until watching. Awesome.
A “chicken scratch drawing”…. I love it😂😂
"Fly legs" (pattes de mouche) in French!😂 I always love the idiomatic expressions.
A “chicken scratch drawing” by Leonardo da Chicken.
And now I understand why tapered bolt are used in these applications.👍
I was thinking about the video where you let us know about your career. For a guy who did NOT spend his career as a machinist, you have amazing machine shop skills. The other machinists I watch all do this full time.
Side Project - Make some wedges to fit that taper bar that can be used to set a given taper. Looks as if they would tuck in nicely and be pretty easy to use.
Time to break out the old sign bar.
I did something similar, I cut a number of cylinders of different diameters to set the angle.worked perfectly every time and for tapers that you didn't cover, at least it got you close
@@dannyl2598The taper mike is actually a small sine bar.
Keith, one of the jobs I worked at we had to lap tapered bolts into the holes. There was a particular distance between the head of the bolt and material that you had to adhere to. It was tedious, time consuming job fraught with the hazard of overshooting your tolerance.
To the other end of the spectrum at the carpet plant I worked at many of our looms used tapered keys instead of bolts. We kept drawers of premade keys stepping down in sizes on hand. On a weekend, downday or slow moment we would load the fixture with blank keys and cut them in the shaper. Most of the attachments to shafts used them also.
The looms were designed in the late 1890s and early 1900s.
I sure miss working in the shops. Retired and wore out now.
Keep 'em turnin'!
Cheers
Terry
While Keith's videos are entertaining and educational, I find the comments interesting as well. There are great technical "discussions", plenty of post game coaches and spirited demonstrations of both good and not so good manners.
The last taper cut on the 16" Monarch was the Tally Ho capstan shaft @ 1.2498/ft. I'm retired, so I got time!
As soon as Keith said 1 1/4" / foot I also remembered it was the Tally Ho capstan shaft tapers. Also, if you've not been following Tally Ho, it's now on its inaugural shakedown cruise north.
Something as simple as a bolt is fascinating to see the complexity in manufacture. Thanks for making it interesting and understandable.
As a kid growing up in the seventies we were self reliant, we built our own pushbikes from whatever parts we could scrounge up or pinch from the local tip, we built all sorts of stuff ourselves, if we didn't do it there was nobody going to do it for us.
We left the house after Breakfast with instructions not to come back until lunchtime, even if it was raining. Most times we stayed out until Teatime, no mobile phones, and our parents had no idea where we were or what we were doing, which could be anything from clambering around on derelict buildings, sailing down the local river on a Tractor innertube we got from the tyre centre and repaired the punctures on.
We all had sheath knives, pocket knives, airguns and all manner of interesting items.
Other than jumping around wasteland and derelict buildings being The Sweeney, or The Professionals and getting the odd pellet of BB in the arse cheek we were fine. We did Paper rounds or worked fruit picking, or the local chicken farm to earn pocket money, or collected old Pop bottles and took them back to collect the 5P deposit, any that were not deposit were used as targets for our Airguns or Catapults.
With the odd exception we all reached adulthood as well rounded individuals who were able to do things for themselves
Excellent teacher!
Keith, will you be able to show the parts actually mounted on the locomotive? That would be pretty cool.
Thanks Keith.
Here's my comment for the algomath thingy. It's a great video to explain the mystery attachment that I have on my 60+ yo Southbend lathe! Thank you.
Excellent as per usual - I see I'm going to have to make a taper turning attachment now!
Great instructional video and excellent work as always!
Maybe a set of dial indicators at a fixed distance on the taper attachment would be handy.
That way you can just dial it in with those dial indicators.
Would be alot more usefull then the dial on the taper attachment itself.
Ok, thats a new one on me... I've never seen a "taper micrometer". You've got to do a short video for that tool, so we can see it closer.
Can you discuss the various alloys you use for projects and why you choose them?
Throughly enjoy your projects.
Another great video thanks Keith
Very interesting, fascinating!
She is going to love having renewed drive links , this is very high quality workmanship!
Thanks Keith for the video. Nice lathe work, always enjoyable.
Great work Keith 🥇
It would be interesting to see you make the next ones with a period lathe of when that locomotive was built to see the process they would have used for tools and what hassles they had to put up with.
Tapered bolts were a trademark of the Baldwin Locomotive Works; but it seems that somebody at Vulcan Iron Works also liked the ideea. The Georgia Museum of Agriculture is lucky to have you, Keith! TM who likes steam locomotives
Breakfast of Champions: Heavy Metal.
Nice fit.
Did you emery cloth the taper? I saw you use some on the threads. Tapers were always tricky for me - I usually had a sample to chuck in the lathe then ran a dial indicator back and forth until it read 0 for the whole length. Then I knew my taper attachment was right. Once set up, cutting a hundred tapers of the same size was easy but I always held my breath on that first one. I never cut a taper on a brand new machine, but I've heard that factory fresh, the markings on the attachment were right on. Keep up the good work.
Another great video Keith. Thanks for sharing.
Nice instruction on the taper setup! I just bought a 10EE that came with a taper attachment. I fixed the electronics and absolutely love the machine. Now I’ll know how to get that taper attachment going.
Thank you Keith!
O wow that looks really neat Keith. Good job 😍
To set a taper on a lathe or an external grinder I would set close big or small with backlash out and make a cut. Check cut do the math ratio the cut to the indicator from center on taper attachment move half check part taper. Recheck ratio to move make any adjustments to move and reset cut should be right on. Worked most the time worst case back off and start over same direction I made it work for 50 years manual or cnc. Good luck and enjoy your retirement.
Really great video. Interesting seeing the taper attachment used.
I'm not a machinist but really enjoy seeing things made by craftsmen. Always interested in processes.
Happy Monday Georgia 😊
A nicely done bit of precision machine work. Thanks, Keith.
Good morning
Good morning Keith, I almost fell off my chair when you were starting the bolts. You were at your lathe, and you put your bolt blank in the lathe to face it off, and after that, you never turned the lathe off to change your tooling to put your chamfer angle on. That is very bad safety practice. If that had slipped out of your hand, it could have turned out badly. I only say this because I have worked in a machine shop for 40 years and have seen a lot of errors like that that didn't turn out well. I only say this for safety, and young people are watching you, and we don't want any bad habits or people getting hurt. I love your videos, and I don't miss any of them, so thanks for sharing.
Measure up 1 foot from the center of the pivot bolt on your taper attachment rail and made a mark. Then you could measure directly over to the edge with calipers and get close very quickly. Alternatively you could lay your reamer along the edge and sight it in.
Thank you, Sir!
Thanks for sharing 👍
I enjoy watching you work and you explain the process as well as the results. From the angle as it appears on video, it looks like the bearing is opening wider at the bottom when you drove the tapered bolts to their final resting place?
Well done Keith. Nice piece of work. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
A good idea to number the screws.
These are all custom made and always have to be returned to their place.
I suspect that when the tapered bolt was driven home the head should not have bottomed out. The purpose of using a tapered bolt is that it removes all clearance between the bolt and the components that it is passing through. This is important because the bolt is being loaded in shear and the load changes direction twice per revolution of the wheel. If there is any clearance the bolt and the parts it holds together would eventually pound out and become loose. Not that it would be good practice but you should be able to drive the bolt home, tighten the nut on the bottom and then cut the head of the bolt off and it would work as intended. The head of that bolt would only be needed to keep the bolt from turning when you go to tighten/loosen the lower nut.
Thank you for another Great video. Cheers
Good morning Keith! Looks great. Thanks for the videos.
Can never get enough locomotive projects! 🎉
The google total hit count for "taper micrometer" is 755. When Amazon has 0 and doesn't know enough to fake it other than 'would you like a plain Starrett?,' and Ebay has 3, (plus 2 sets of gauges,) that's a rare tool.
Thanks Keith
Never seen a taper micrometer before!
I really feel like I learned something in the video. Your explanations were very clear. Great job!
Great work and thanks for the interesting and engaging content. Look forward to your videos all the time. If you start up by the head of that hex and plunge in to the across the flat diameter. You can run the carriage in reverse toward the live center with less vibration to get it beyond the interrupted cut.
Way to go Professor. Great job on the machining!
Nice fitup. Job well done. Thanks for sharing.
you should mark your taper attachment as you know its 1/8 per foot now. or recalibrate its dial.
Lovely work
24:23 - Could you use a protractor a or gauge blocks (kinda like on a sine bar) either referencing the tool against the work, or the bar with respect to the lathe, to take the guesswork out? I mean I get for a one off part where the taper is not all that precise, but if you were say, making a morse taper or something like that, would it not be easier to get better results that way? By the way, you are looking and sounding terrific Keith, looking forward to seeing you have a long and happy retirement!
Great job.
Definitely separate's the men form the boys when it comes to expert lathe work. Really appreciate this content. The DRO sure makes things easier. Only had an occasion to cut tapers a couple times on a 10" South Bend, it's not easy!
You must be kidding!
If you want to see "expert lathe work" go to Cutting Edge Engineering, or Mattys Workshop, not this Bozo!
The only reason a good machinist watches this guy is for laughs!
@@garybrenner6236 Gary, be nice, for what he does Keith is fine. Sorry his 'style' does not suit you, and others who say similar...
@@garybrenner6236...and you keep coming back for more and sulking about the stoker engine every episode. You sound like an impatient whining child. Grow up.😢
Thanks for sharing
Last place you used the taper attachment was on the Talley Ho capstan shaft.
Great stuff Keith. A suggestion for an episode would be to cover tooling organization, storage, wear-out replacement, and other management topics. The casual mention that you can dip into your collection and smoothly come up with a servicable 1/8 x 12 reamer is maybe the most impressive part of this episode! 😊 I'm sure you take it for granted, but for us struggling amateurs it would be super interesting to know your tricks and techniques.
Did you watch the previous episode? He didn't have a 1/8 X12 reamer because they are not standard today. He had one specially ground for this job.
As a train guy I will look more closely at that type connecting rod. I had no idea that there were tapered bolts and adjustable wedges.
nice work
The Machine will love it new feet
peace be upon you sir and zamzam water
Nice job Keith!
Love it! No matter how F'd the world gets, machining makes sense!
Always interesting when making tapers.🪐
Fantastic work
Excellent result.
Thank you for sharing.👍
Always something interesting thank you
i would have put the reamer in the lathe and clocked the flute it as it ground to spec.
the difference between between a tv star and a toolmaker lol
Hello Keith. Very useful video, thanks! Any chance for a video on making those rod bearings? I may need to make new bearings for a Case Steam tractor very soon.
Would I be correct to assume the bolts are tapered in order to prevent any slop in the connection? Seems like precision machining is critical here.
Shouldn't there be a small gap under the head of the bolt when it is fully tightened to ensure that the taper is fully seated (and to enable future tightening) ?
Yes, this is correct.
thank you
Hello Keith, I could watch you make all these bolts. This might be an application for Abom's CNC machines, if they weren't all custom for the location.
On another project. I've been wondering if the cane mill roller shouldn't have been sandblasted. You had to build up the bearing surfaces anyway, so the gear seating area is the only critical area. If there are any cracks in the roller, they would be easier to find with clean metal. Given the size of this mill, cracks might be significant and best located early. dave
Good work. The second one should go a little faster.
Question: Why would this otherwise off-the-shelf looking threaded bolt require a taper? Why would original designers see a necessity of such precision in a bolt that has no apparent need for the added cost of production?
Thank you, Keith. I always enjoy your work.
John
I guess the taper is to make sure the strap holding the bushings and the "beam" don't have any lengthwise play (that would quickly destroy the bolts). Could have been ground shoulder bolts/reamed holes, or pressed pins with normal bolts but taper stuff was common at the time and a taper bolt kills 2 birds with 1 stone.
It's all discussed in Part 1
@@RicktheRecorder and in the comments for the first part someone who worked the fullsized train yard shops explained it very well.
@@papajrd It would be very difficult to press fit a 6" bolt at the required tolerance, and impossible to remove for maintenance and adjustment.
Why isn't there a mother on both sides? Then you can pull the pen in as far as necessary. Plus you wouldn't need a hammer to pull it out. Simply pull out with the top nut.
Greetings from Germany
Another awesome video. From kiwi land
Cool
I want to build a steam generator . Something capable of about 5-10 kw of required for about a hour run time. And normal use around 1-2 kw, maybe a Tesla turbine running on the exhaust side spinning a smaller alternator. A 4"-6" thick stack of 10"-12" disc on a 2" hollow shaft. Using brass bushings 2" wide with labyrinth seals on each side. Basically alternating disc with little clearance. .005" or less the brass bushings having a 1.5"-1.625" wide groove fed by pressurized oil. With the oil basically trapped inside. The labyrinth seals slowing the leak. Using the pressure to keep the bushing surfaces apart. Using 0w? Engine oil, or possibly ATF fluid or power steering fluid something thin to allow high rpm. Possibly do test using diesel fuel and oil mix. Being diesel is a oil with lubrication properties to prevent destruction of the pump and injectors. Maybe a 0w something oil mixed 50-60% with diesel. It will only require about 1-2 quarts to do the job. Using a Chevy V8 oil pump. Spinning at just enough rpm to maintain pressure using a pressure sensor and electronic motor control to control the 350 watt DC Motor with a filter cooler and heater controlled by solenoid valves. Using steam to preheat the oil. Then a radiator to cool when the temperature gets hot. Probably only a 8' bit of 3/8-1/2" copper Tobe, with 14 ga copper wire wrapped around it tightly and soldered. Creating cooling fins the bend around a 1x4 and place Infront of a fan. Or use a small oil cooler ., with a 2" shaft spinning 45k rpm likely minimum, possibly in excess of 60k rpm. With the exhaust through the center of the shaft. The oil will require cooling and a roughly 100:1 reduction is required. Low friction. Maybe a planetary arrangement. With polished sour gears. Straight cut, noisy but ok. A sound dampening cover can handle the sound. A disc about .030" thick with a .030" thick spacer. With a .080" slit at a 30°-60° angle leading to a .100" hole , the shaft wall roughly .250" with a .125" key to prevent the disc from slipping. The tiny key being About .062"-.065"deep in the shaft. With two holes 45° from the key to offset the weight. The slit in the spacers aligned twitch the holes and a stack of spacers cut at once along with disc. Spacers epoxied to disc with just enough to stick them together. The stack of holes should allow a 1/2" - 5/8" supply line at 60 psi to run the engine. Using flat nozzles basically a large crayon shape of brass. Drilled on the backside to 75% through with a 3/8" drill. The tip flattened to about 1/4" thick. To look like a thick flat screwdriver. Then a thin slit cut into the drilled portion! Then a .030" stack of feeler gauges placed in the slit and tap the slit closed on the gauges. Allowing them to be pulled out of course. The housing tapped with 1/2" not the brass nozzles threaded to fit inside the pipe fitted into the housing. With about 6-12 placed in two rows with the pipes placed into a 1x2 SQ tube each row, and brazed or welded inducing bolt on flanges per tube. The steam jet should hit the disc at about 1/4"-3/8" wide and 1/8-3/16" from the disc. The tube manifolds fed by a 3/4" line split in two. Or a steam engine using a 12" bore with 6" stroke , at full 150-200 psi that should equal a fair amount of power. Even 100 psi over 12" is 1200 lbs on a 6" lever, even if single acting. It should be plenty of power. And operating at 2000-3000 rpm spinning 24" flywheels being a 3" x 3" ring connected to a center by 6, 2" spokes, to a 4" crank journal with a 10" center hub. Built from foam board sanded sculpted into shape. Even balanced to make balancing of the final product easier. The iron flywheel should be capable of spinning 6k rpm without issues, from balance , ( probably scare ppl to death tho) the peak engine speed being 3200+/- 400 rpm . Likely 1800-2400 use a variable pulley to drive the actual alternator. Get peak rpm even driven at 600 rpm. It seems to me steam engines would make peak TQ at a low RPM. I'm a gas engine guy , and. Looking to use waste oil and scrap wood to generate power Weekly, buying gas or diesel would get spendy. Possibly running 8-12 hours 2-4 day weekly in winter, and use the exhaust passed through radiators in house to condense the water to be reused in a semi closed system. Sorry to ramble, but alternative power is awesome, nothing like the feeling of making your own power. Even if it's only enough for the lights.. you can get a 3phase alternator spin it with a steam engine , making all the power required for the equipment!! Or use solar power and 3phase inverters. Have an awesome day 🎉
James, I like the way you think. Your idea(s) are nicely presented but needs a bit of organization for others ease of understanding
What is a sour gear? Did you actally mean spur gear, I got that from context. The noise was the clue.
.
Will you be heat treating the bolts?
No, for a short answer.
Search wiki for train connecting rod, sometimes called train coupling rod. As materials (alloys) got better, the taper pins you saw being made were made from lighter alloys. The 'bolt' head you see is to allow disassembly. It does not actually make contact with the surface, it should be proud by a specific amount called out in the trades manuals specific to the locomotive.
The reason for the 1/2 extension of the threaded pin is to allow the pins to be removed with the proper type hammer when the rod is being serviced, the head is to hold onto while loosening the jam nut. It is a bit close there where you would be working to do this by using the other nut. The 'bolt' head is not actually used for anything other than to provide a place to hammer the pin home, the nuts are to provide backup places to hammer during removal to "prevent" the thread for getting boogered up, the jam nut is to ensure that there is at least one nut of the pair to pull the pin into the taper since it is a bit hard to hammer up with either hand to mount the pin properly. In other words, the head is a target, the upper nut is a target and the jam nut is to, well, jam it all up.
Another Good Vidio
I would guess you’re going to need a bigger gap between the bearing halves for the sake of future adjustments. That gap sets a limit.
That gap will suffice for a few years. The first 10,000 revs of the connected wheels should only be break-in for the existing pins to the bronzes. Any wear can be measured with a tapered rule with proper markings. Starett used to make those, refer to the older sales offerings on VM.org for details (again 1/8 | 12 inch was a standard for many British, German and Japanese light rail).
And the bolt head should not be flush or below, proud of the rod is correct, the standard is in the older books Keith has shown us. Audel was a great reference since they explained the why of everything they taught.
Out of curiosity, is there any sort of reference surfaces on the taper attachment, where you could set the taper in a similar way to a sine plate? A known distance point from it's pivot, where you could insert some gauge blocks to a certain distance to create the right angle/taper...
Was that hex stock 12L14 ? It seemed to machine pretty cleanly
I hope not, the punishment these taper pin take each half revolution will destroy any leaded steel which is made as we saw. Stress proof is best in this application.
Question: Do you ever cut a taper between centres i remember doing a Morse taper at school many year's ago it did work very well.
Thanks for the vid and info. A question that I have but not sure if there is a good answer, why do the bolts come in from the bottom? I have always been taught if possible a bolt should always install from the top so IF the nut comes off the bolt won't fall out.
So you can get a hammer on it when it comes time to remove it next.
Concerning setting the taper, wouldn't you be able to zero your taper, move 4" lock the slide, then dial in your taper bar using the dro to the # you wanted. Instead of going back and forth 15 times, little bit at a time, overshooting etc. Maybe you could get it where you wanted in just a recheck or 3. I'm sure there is a reason he didn't do this, but if someone could explain why I'd really like to know.