@@the_retired_mechanic this was really easy but I had another in the garage that week that wasn’t as easy. I had a DC/DC converter fault, which I had never even heard of. Luckily I got it sorted but it did float around my garage for a few weeks 😬😬
buy cheap - get CHEAP, pay cheap - pay twice and I could go on an on. There is a reason certain parts or brands cost more than other which reflects the quality of them. I am not saying the more expensive is always better as there are lot of overpriced stuff out there. But if someone thinks they made a good deal getting something for half price, guess what - the cost saving was in the quality very likely. Also seen a lot of times compatibility issues. For example we seen the most issues with sensors if they are not OEM ones they give you fault codes and headaches. So the diagnostics procedure is always important, don't change something that is working properly and if you change something make sure it will be working as it is intended to do. GREAT work Peter! as usual ;) David&Dan.
@@MrNiceGuy94 I absolutely agree Dan & David. It can be very frustrating when cheaper aftermarket parts are replaced but not up to the job, you always question you diagnosis first & did you miss something or call the wrong part 😬😬
😂 reading the reseting procedure "Another Way": 1. "Find the engine hood,...." 😂 Damn...isn't there an age limit for those instructions? 😂 Small tip: use a small 12v battery to keep the ECUs happy. I have an old model 14,4v 3ah bosch battery that I bought for cheap because are not in use anymore and a cheap battery adapter with + and - output, put 2 clamps on them and I can clamp the battery terminals during removal. Usually saves a lot of time reseting the windows, radio, angle sensor etc etc. You can do it via obd too. Autel has a nice tool for that "battery memory saver", but there are many. However I prefer to jump directly to the battery terminals if the lights go on or something draws too much for the obd port. Cheers!
AGM is a gel filled battery rather liquid & EFB is liquid filled but just a slightly cheaper version. I do as a habit call all Stop/start batteries AGM so if I phrase anything incorrect just ignore me. Just don’t fit a standard wet flooded battery to the as they fail quite fast in start/stop systems 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 cheers in donegal here changed oil twice in 4 days to flush moisture out topped up coolant hasn't happened since done 500 mile since also driving too well to be head id say oil cooler is bang on fingers crossed 🤞
Is that battery reset proceedure for an automatic i.e. P&N? You are 100% right about cheap batteries being rubbish.....a false economy, you'll be lucky to get 3 years out of them
@kennedysgarage3281 battery checked yesterday. It's fine. My capacitor charges up when I'm slowing down or going down hill but then as soon as I apply the accelerator the capacitor power bars on the graphic reduce to zero in about 4 seconds. It's therefore losing its charge.
defiantly a school day not seen that one before. thank you peter
@@the_retired_mechanic this was really easy but I had another in the garage that week that wasn’t as easy.
I had a DC/DC converter fault, which I had never even heard of. Luckily I got it sorted but it did float around my garage for a few weeks 😬😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 dc to dc converter??? I need to retire properly this time
buy cheap - get CHEAP, pay cheap - pay twice and I could go on an on.
There is a reason certain parts or brands cost more than other which reflects the quality of them. I am not saying the more expensive is always better as there are lot of overpriced stuff out there. But if someone thinks they made a good deal getting something for half price, guess what - the cost saving was in the quality very likely. Also seen a lot of times compatibility issues.
For example we seen the most issues with sensors if they are not OEM ones they give you fault codes and headaches.
So the diagnostics procedure is always important, don't change something that is working properly and if you change something make sure it will be working as it is intended to do.
GREAT work Peter! as usual ;)
David&Dan.
@@MrNiceGuy94 I absolutely agree Dan & David. It can be very frustrating when cheaper aftermarket parts are replaced but not up to the job, you always question you diagnosis first & did you miss something or call the wrong part 😬😬
The first method with the string of pedal inputs didnt work for me.. however thr alternative method below worked like a charm.. thanks
@@kongchunghwa well done mate, these resets can sometimes take a little trial & error but will generally work after a few attempts 💪💪
😂 reading the reseting procedure "Another Way":
1. "Find the engine hood,...."
😂 Damn...isn't there an age limit for those instructions? 😂
Small tip: use a small 12v battery to keep the ECUs happy. I have an old model 14,4v 3ah bosch battery that I bought for cheap because are not in use anymore and a cheap battery adapter with + and - output, put 2 clamps on them and I can clamp the battery terminals during removal. Usually saves a lot of time reseting the windows, radio, angle sensor etc etc. You can do it via obd too. Autel has a nice tool for that "battery memory saver", but there are many. However I prefer to jump directly to the battery terminals if the lights go on or something draws too much for the obd port. Cheers!
@@alexdragomirescu5084 very interesting approach. It’s fantastic to get different peoples perspectives and approaches. Thanks mate 🙏🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 hey! You're showing us very good stuff! Excellent tips so we're in debt with you! 😉 keep them coming! 🍻
@@alexdragomirescu5084 😉🙏🙏
Didnt do th e battery reset dance at all. 😮
@@bastogne315 😂😂😂😂
If you look back at yer toyota landcruiser clutch vid Peter, I try explain my take as best I can. You might find it handy to know - or not. :-)
@@jamesward5721 I can’t remember that video James but I will check it out now 🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 ruclips.net/video/suekp_u2NSw/видео.html
Good teacher
Just wondering me, as you mension is AGM battery where Mazda using EFB batteries and on youre movie is D31 EFB in that Mazda not AGM
AGM is a gel filled battery rather liquid & EFB is liquid filled but just a slightly cheaper version. I do as a habit call all Stop/start batteries AGM so if I phrase anything incorrect just ignore me.
Just don’t fit a standard wet flooded battery to the as they fail quite fast in start/stop systems 😉
Yup you proved again sir...mazda keeps you dancin😅😅😅....cheers
@@Hybriddiag I encounter a similar but far more complicated iEloop problem in the same week. I’ll up load it next but they can’t all be easy 😬😬
Where are located ? Bother with 15 octavia vrs tdi with coolant showing up in oil
@@Dom6636-1 we are in Waterford area Southern Ireland. You could have an Oil cooler failing or Head gasket 😬😬
Vw/Audi & Skoda oil cooler replacement
ruclips.net/video/zA48qKZCVq0/видео.html
@@kennedysgarage3281 cheers in donegal here changed oil twice in 4 days to flush moisture out topped up coolant hasn't happened since done 500 mile since also driving too well to be head id say oil cooler is bang on fingers crossed 🤞
@@Dom6636-1 fingers crossed mate 🤞🤞
Is that battery reset proceedure for an automatic i.e. P&N?
You are 100% right about cheap batteries being rubbish.....a false economy, you'll be lucky to get 3 years out of them
@@martinfinbarscully4924 I actually don’t know the answer to that Martin, but you could very well be right. Cheap doesn’t ever equal better 🤷🏼♂️
Will this work on a mazda 2 auto?
@@domi9577 it should be the same setup, have you checked the battery??
@kennedysgarage3281 battery checked yesterday. It's fine. My capacitor charges up when I'm slowing down or going down hill but then as soon as I apply the accelerator the capacitor power bars on the graphic reduce to zero in about 4 seconds. It's therefore losing its charge.
@ interesting, it looks like you have a challenge on your hands. Good luck with it 🤞🤞🤞