Thanks for this vid!! Just changed out the spark plugs and coils on my 2010 2.7L Tacoma. 240k miles. Plugged it into the reader and read the first two cylinders had an misfire code. Had the initial misfire happen, but it eventually buffed out and my truck went into a normal idle. after 30 seconds or so and a little throttle help. But 9/10 times it starts with a misfire and low spud, which eventually buffs back out into a normal idle. Sometimes, it'll start up with no misfire... After stating that I've replaced all plugs and coils (I did out of sheer mileage) since they've never been touched to my knowledge, I'm going to take a stab at replacing the fuel injectors to see if thats the main culprit. After that, I fear i'll have done all I'll be capable of doing with the tools and resources I have. Just trying to run down the process of elimination list, hoping its not the worst most expensive scenario I could have. Pray for this amatuer mechanic...
Dude! Thank you so much for doing this video! It helped so much changing out my fuel injectors on my 2005 Tacoma 2.7L. The only thing I did differently was to unbolt the two screws that hold the Fuel Pressure Pulsation Damper on the fuel rail. Doing that made torqueing the Fuel Rail Spacer bolts down easy with my torque wrench. I used your trick with the dielectric grease and put a thin layer on the o-ring before putting the Damper back on the rail and all other o-rings for that matter. Worked like a charm! But other than that, all other step were identical. The worst part was pulling the damn connectors off the fuel injectors and a couple of other ones as well. I did take my time to clean the throttle body and used your advice about the gasket. Mine was flat with no lip so I swapped it out. Anyone cleaning the throttle body, I would suggest you do not open the flap quick when you are cleaning it out. If you don't know what I mean, watch The Car Care Nut videos on youtube. Again, thank you so much dude! I really appreciate your video! Torque specs: Fuel rail spacer bolts x 2 - 108in/lbs Fuel Pressure Pulsation Damper bolts x 2 (The thingy that goes on the fuel rail) - 75in/lbs Throttle Body Bolts and Nuts x 4 - 80in/lbs Intake Hose & Throttle Body Hose Clamp bolts x 2 - 44in/lbs Fuel Injector OEM # - 23209-79205 Throttle body Gasket OEM # - 22271-75070
Just did my injectors on my 2006 Nisan Altima, V6, what a pain. Have done the rear valve cover THREE times, no fault of my own, using after market parts, it's what I can afford and what is justified for this year vehicle. Noticing now, when stopped at a red light, the engine seems to be laboring a bit, suspect MAP or MAF sensor, but don't have a way to tell yet, no codes. Any input would be appreciated, perhaps you've run into this before. It holds RPM, it just feels like it is working too hard, maybe fuel pressure, lost at this point. Thanks in advance.
Hey Dude, recently followed your video and managed to replace my injectors on my own. My mistake was rolling one of the O rings during installation. Had to take the Fuel rail off again to swap out the O rings i had damaged, during my second removal of the rail I dropped on of the plastic pintle caps into the injector port. How screwed am I?
@@gregpalmer3717 got lucky with my 2TR-FE. pintle caps on the fuel injectors are too large to make it past a fully opened intake valve. Had to take the manifold off and go fishing with a small pick tool. Thank god for port injected engines.
Thanks for this vid!! Just changed out the spark plugs and coils on my 2010 2.7L Tacoma. 240k miles. Plugged it into the reader and read the first two cylinders had an misfire code. Had the initial misfire happen, but it eventually buffed out and my truck went into a normal idle. after 30 seconds or so and a little throttle help. But 9/10 times it starts with a misfire and low spud, which eventually buffs back out into a normal idle. Sometimes, it'll start up with no misfire... After stating that I've replaced all plugs and coils (I did out of sheer mileage) since they've never been touched to my knowledge, I'm going to take a stab at replacing the fuel injectors to see if thats the main culprit. After that, I fear i'll have done all I'll be capable of doing with the tools and resources I have. Just trying to run down the process of elimination list, hoping its not the worst most expensive scenario I could have. Pray for this amatuer mechanic...
Dude! Thank you so much for doing this video! It helped so much changing out my fuel injectors on my 2005 Tacoma 2.7L. The only thing I did differently was to unbolt the two screws that hold the Fuel Pressure Pulsation Damper on the fuel rail. Doing that made torqueing the Fuel Rail Spacer bolts down easy with my torque wrench. I used your trick with the dielectric grease and put a thin layer on the o-ring before putting the Damper back on the rail and all other o-rings for that matter. Worked like a charm! But other than that, all other step were identical. The worst part was pulling the damn connectors off the fuel injectors and a couple of other ones as well. I did take my time to clean the throttle body and used your advice about the gasket. Mine was flat with no lip so I swapped it out. Anyone cleaning the throttle body, I would suggest you do not open the flap quick when you are cleaning it out. If you don't know what I mean, watch The Car Care Nut videos on youtube. Again, thank you so much dude! I really appreciate your video!
Torque specs:
Fuel rail spacer bolts x 2 - 108in/lbs
Fuel Pressure Pulsation Damper bolts x 2 (The thingy that goes on the fuel rail) - 75in/lbs
Throttle Body Bolts and Nuts x 4 - 80in/lbs
Intake Hose & Throttle Body Hose Clamp bolts x 2 - 44in/lbs
Fuel Injector OEM # - 23209-79205
Throttle body Gasket OEM # - 22271-75070
excellent thank you very much
Thanks!
How would you do the idle relearn on a manual?
Just did my injectors on my 2006 Nisan Altima, V6, what a pain. Have done the rear valve cover THREE times, no fault of my own, using after market parts, it's what I can afford and what is justified for this year vehicle. Noticing now, when stopped at a red light, the engine seems to be laboring a bit, suspect MAP or MAF sensor, but don't have a way to tell yet, no codes. Any input would be appreciated, perhaps you've run into this before. It holds RPM, it just feels like it is working too hard, maybe fuel pressure, lost at this point. Thanks in advance.
Hey Dude, recently followed your video and managed to replace my injectors on my own. My mistake was rolling one of the O rings during installation. Had to take the Fuel rail off again to swap out the O rings i had damaged, during my second removal of the rail I dropped on of the plastic pintle caps into the injector port. How screwed am I?
Just had the same thing happen!! Mechanic told me that it would drop down and blow out the exhaust or burn up.
@@gregpalmer3717 got lucky with my 2TR-FE. pintle caps on the fuel injectors are too large to make it past a fully opened intake valve. Had to take the manifold off and go fishing with a small pick tool. Thank god for port injected engines.
Do I have to disconnect any fuses before attempting this on my truck bro?
No.