You're right most people say ohhh I want a 1k hp Mustang but they don't realize how much power that really is. My 2015 had 1000 horsepower twin-turbo 6467 that ran 8s in the quarter and I rode on the lowest setting at 700/750 and I still had to put weight in the back just to get it down the street 😅
My fox coupe runs 1k fwhp on the streets, I have the suspension setup pretty good and will dead hook at 50 mph. But it is sketchy I. used to have a manual trans and it never hooked up well on the street, now its a 4l80.
We run twin 69 billet Bogue Warners with .96 ar turbine housing. 366 in.³ iron block LS spools super fast stick shift street car on 24 pounds runs 8.88 at 165mph. 1 to 1 back pressure at 26 pounds boost. We’ve never turned it up, but believe it should easily run well on 35 pounds of boost. We run Bosch to tens, with a 2000 arrow motive and a 750 magna fuel that comes on at 7 pounds of boost. I think it’s making about 1250 or 1300 to the motor at 24 pounds 3600 pound car.
Nice Fox, I have a very similar coupe with a 365 ls with the same front accessory drive with Ac. But I mounted the S480 on the passenger side, right under, behind the headlight. Holley Dominator, 4l80 I’m running a T4 92mm housing but at 17 psi is already 2:1 back pressure. At 22 psi its close to 48 I’m about to do a T6 swap and I believe that will definitely help out. Fun fact…I did a ls/t56 swap on mine back in 2002. Back then you never had lsx swapped foxes lol the good old days.
I think i split the difference. I got a completely forged bottom end 370 LQ4 with 80lbjr injectors, BTR stage 2 cam. TFS 225 cnc heads and a really nice valvetrain. Turbo is a True North Turbos S476 76mm compressor, 87/84 turbine on a T4 1.10AR housing. Should be between the 78/75 and the S480 as far as backpressure. also I plumbed in a ProMeth Direct port meth injection kit as supplemental fueling (100% meth) Should be flowing around 156lbhr (26gph) of meth at 100% duty cycle on the solenoid. My quick n dirty math says that turns 91 octane into 99 octane with the added benefit of additional IAT reduction. (Its all downstream from my MAT sensor, so i guess i'll never know how much) Hoping that allows me to tickle 800rwhp. I will probably take it to Josh at Gen3 to clean up the WOT stuff. Truck is about 3800lbs on a 255/35r20 tire, i never drove anything with more then 275 RWHP. But i want to do miles of mayhem lol.
Turbo selection depends on what transmission and use of the car. If it’s a street car with a standard trans go with a smaller turbo if you want response. Auto trans setups spool really depends on the torque converter specs. They need a loose converter to help spool time.
So many different options out there for the s400 turbo's to get your spool the way you want it. Your turbine options are 75/83- 83/87- 85/93- 88/96 and bigger. Then you have the A/R housings .91-1.25 A/R on the t4 and 1.10-1.15-1.32 and bigger on the t6 side. If you buy a 78/75 you are picking a .96 A/R or 1.25 with a 75/83 turbine that can not be changed. I fell like s400 is a better option then the 78/75, Data has proven back pressure problems at 5,500 rpms and above on the 78/75 with bigger motors so the s400 with a 1.25 T4 or 1.10 T6 A/R housing and 83/87 is a better option for bigger motors revving past 6k.
@davesperformance88 Do you think an 80mm S400 w/ the 88/96 wheel in a 1.25 T4 housing would be worthwhile behind a 6.0 on a street truck? Purely a cruiser - not much high RPM stuff. I see that's basically what you're recommending above except this has a larger turbine. Not sure how that would change its characteristics. Honestly, the 78/75 would probably get me what I want but I keep running across comments saying it's limiting and doesn't offer the flexibility of the S400. Thanks!
If your camshaft is too big you will run into reversion problems. If you can put a smaller cam shaft in your car and make more power it is because the valve is not open as long as it closes before the reversion therefore it will make more power because you have better velocity Due to less reversion. If the valve closes sooner and does not open as much and does not stay open as long you will see an increase in power with a smaller cam. The trick to making horsepower is to have the smallest intake runner possible while flowing as much as posible. The only thing that can help reversion on a camshaft that is too big for say the street, Is RPM. If you want RPM you need lots of stall and a correctly geared car. Basically you need the smallest runner possible with the most flow possible with a camshaft that is tailored to street driving lower lift and lower duration. For a track car it's not gonna run well download because you're never gonna be there with your converter selection. Remember RPM is your friend because you you break things when you make high torque at low rpm. The most important thing I can articulate is high flow at low lyft numbers that is what makes an engine good for the street. Wait of the car is a very important factor. A engine in a lightweight car is much less likely to detonate than that same engine in a heavy car because of the load. Anyway I'm just rambling God bless and thank you for the video. I would like to know your thoughts.
@danieljames5875 you've got some great points! For sure the reversion is important, I'm surprised with my new cam for the mustang how big the cam looks on paper vs valve event locations. My new belief is that max effort turbo cams will always have advance in them
@WestcoastWrenchin Not only advance but you're LSA on a properly specked camshaft almost always measures out to be very high, Usually a engine that has 40 plus pounds of boost will almost always run best with a wide LSA Like 112 to 116 and will probably have +3 to +6° advance. The wide LSA helps with the Overlap/reversion and allows for better cylinder filling. Your backpressure or drive pressure is higher under boost then you're boost pressure. The correct valve events wont allow the higher exhaust pressure in the cylunder while it is being evacuated to get pushed into the intake runner Because the boost pressure is not as high as the back pressure of the Turbo. Same thing goes for N/A engines but you do not have boost pressure to help combat the the pressure difference. Speaking to what I said earlier about high flow at low lift, you need to know what your valve is doing every 50thou of cam lift. You then need to apply your rocker ratio to that calculation. When you get into higher Rocker ratios it changes the speed of the valve and believe it or not it also changes you're duration numbers. When your picking a camshaft & you're only choosing it based off at 50 numbers then you are very much in the dark & playing with fire. I would recommend that you don't buy a camshaft unless it has a Cam Doctor sheet or you have something that shows you it is what it is advertised as. Also they may be the same at 50 but at other lift numbers they are drastically different. You can have 2 cam shafts that have the exact same durations, LSA & max lift numbers and they could have a 100hp diffrence. If you don't believe me go check out the guy that did the camshaft challenge here recently. I've learned a lot from that dude. Thats why I think LSA is important for boost but is not something you choose a cam off of. Base it off of what your car is & what your doing with it, that is the most important. You should select your camshaft based on your needs and you should be striving to get the best valve events for what you are trying to do. You need to base it off of opening and closing events & off the size & efficiently of your engine's parts u have available. Idk lol... I just love my GOD, "MERICA" putting things together, learning new shit and making things make sense. Then you can apply knowledge & make things work better... Thanks brother!! God-bless...
@danieljames5875 nicely said! I have been down the rabbit hole on back pressure and camshaft selection for sure. One that I still have trouble with is scavenging effects with high drive pressure
Try running no intercooler on low boost, say under 15 psi. My turbo ls 5.3 with a $200 gt45 has been 10.33 on like 8 pounds of boost on E85 on like 17 degrees of timing. I bracket race it regularly. My jEGS converter flashes to 5000 rpm when leaving so that helps a lot. My opinion is that getting rid of all that cold side leaky intercooler piping bullshit really brings the turbo alive. On a 90 degree race day I saw 180 degree inlet temps in the traps quarter mile at 8 pounds of boost. I know this junk gt45 will go nines lol!
Asked a vs dealer what turbo to get, and he said the t6 next gen 80mm. With race cover, over the gen 3 7875. For street car with lq4 and want around 700hp. Will flip stock manifolds and 2.25 to turbo, and 4 to dual 3 exhaust. And will use the truck norris cam. Believe i have 3.32 gears. Hope its not to laggy.
I have same setup in my sn95 lq4 with ported heads and cam made 430rwhp now put the 7875 on how much power can it hold and what power should mine roughly make at 14lbs?
Save yourself the troubles and headaches and save a couple more dollars up and go with a supercharger, much more simple and easy to figure out!!!….and the power is right there!!!!…….although that is a clean ass install on that beautiful notch and i bet its a hoot to drive
You're right most people say ohhh I want a 1k hp Mustang but they don't realize how much power that really is. My 2015 had 1000 horsepower twin-turbo 6467 that ran 8s in the quarter and I rode on the lowest setting at 700/750 and I still had to put weight in the back just to get it down the street 😅
My fox coupe runs 1k fwhp on the streets, I have the suspension setup pretty good and will dead hook at 50 mph. But it is sketchy I. used to have a manual trans and it never hooked up well on the street, now its a 4l80.
We run twin 69 billet Bogue Warners with .96 ar turbine housing. 366 in.³ iron block LS spools super fast stick shift street car on 24 pounds runs 8.88 at 165mph. 1 to 1 back pressure at 26 pounds boost. We’ve never turned it up, but believe it should easily run well on 35 pounds of boost. We run Bosch to tens, with a 2000 arrow motive and a 750 magna fuel that comes on at 7 pounds of boost. I think it’s making about 1250 or 1300 to the motor at 24 pounds 3600 pound car.
Nice Fox, I have a very similar coupe with a 365 ls with the same front accessory drive with Ac. But I mounted the S480 on the passenger side, right under, behind the headlight. Holley Dominator, 4l80
I’m running a T4 92mm housing but at 17 psi is already 2:1 back pressure. At 22 psi its close to 48
I’m about to do a T6 swap and I believe that will definitely help out. Fun fact…I did a ls/t56 swap on mine back in 2002. Back then you never had lsx swapped foxes lol the good old days.
@@scottgarmon4865 wow early adopter!!
This is exactly what I was looking for thank you
Sending love from Mexico
Thanks! Happy to help
I think i split the difference. I got a completely forged bottom end 370 LQ4 with 80lbjr injectors, BTR stage 2 cam. TFS 225 cnc heads and a really nice valvetrain. Turbo is a True North Turbos S476 76mm compressor, 87/84 turbine on a T4 1.10AR housing. Should be between the 78/75 and the S480 as far as backpressure. also I plumbed in a ProMeth Direct port meth injection kit as supplemental fueling (100% meth) Should be flowing around 156lbhr (26gph) of meth at 100% duty cycle on the solenoid. My quick n dirty math says that turns 91 octane into 99 octane with the added benefit of additional IAT reduction. (Its all downstream from my MAT sensor, so i guess i'll never know how much) Hoping that allows me to tickle 800rwhp. I will probably take it to Josh at Gen3 to clean up the WOT stuff. Truck is about 3800lbs on a 255/35r20 tire, i never drove anything with more then 275 RWHP. But i want to do miles of mayhem lol.
Turbo selection depends on what transmission and use of the car. If it’s a street car with a standard trans go with a smaller turbo if you want response. Auto trans setups spool really depends on the torque converter specs. They need a loose converter to help spool time.
So many different options out there for the s400 turbo's to get your spool the way you want it. Your turbine options are 75/83- 83/87- 85/93- 88/96 and bigger. Then you have the A/R housings .91-1.25 A/R on the t4 and 1.10-1.15-1.32 and bigger on the t6 side. If you buy a 78/75 you are picking a .96 A/R or 1.25 with a 75/83 turbine that can not be changed. I fell like s400 is a better option then the 78/75, Data has proven back pressure problems at 5,500 rpms and above on the 78/75 with bigger motors so the s400 with a 1.25 T4 or 1.10 T6 A/R housing and 83/87 is a better option for bigger motors revving past 6k.
@davesperformance88 Do you think an 80mm S400 w/ the 88/96 wheel in a 1.25 T4 housing would be worthwhile behind a 6.0 on a street truck? Purely a cruiser - not much high RPM stuff. I see that's basically what you're recommending above except this has a larger turbine. Not sure how that would change its characteristics. Honestly, the 78/75 would probably get me what I want but I keep running across comments saying it's limiting and doesn't offer the flexibility of the S400. Thanks!
@@TDS82 I think the 82/87 on the 1.25 would be great on the street. 85/93 would be good option but still little lag for quicker spool.
3k rpm spool is low for a 7k RPM motor.
Would you think a T6 would be a good choice for a 408 stroker LS? Truck application towing etc
It would be a lot better on a 408 for sure
If your camshaft is too big you will run into reversion problems. If you can put a smaller cam shaft in your car and make more power it is because the valve is not open as long as it closes before the reversion therefore it will make more power because you have better velocity Due to less reversion. If the valve closes sooner and does not open as much and does not stay open as long you will see an increase in power with a smaller cam. The trick to making horsepower is to have the smallest intake runner possible while flowing as much as posible. The only thing that can help reversion on a camshaft that is too big for say the street, Is RPM. If you want RPM you need lots of stall and a correctly geared car. Basically you need the smallest runner possible with the most flow possible with a camshaft that is tailored to street driving lower lift and lower duration. For a track car it's not gonna run well download because you're never gonna be there with your converter selection. Remember RPM is your friend because you you break things when you make high torque at low rpm. The most important thing I can articulate is high flow at low lyft numbers that is what makes an engine good for the street. Wait of the car is a very important factor. A engine in a lightweight car is much less likely to detonate than that same engine in a heavy car because of the load. Anyway I'm just rambling God bless and thank you for the video. I would like to know your thoughts.
@danieljames5875 you've got some great points! For sure the reversion is important, I'm surprised with my new cam for the mustang how big the cam looks on paper vs valve event locations. My new belief is that max effort turbo cams will always have advance in them
@WestcoastWrenchin Not only advance but you're LSA on a properly specked camshaft almost always measures out to be very high, Usually a engine that has 40 plus pounds of boost will almost always run best with a wide LSA Like 112 to 116 and will probably have +3 to +6° advance. The wide LSA helps with the Overlap/reversion and allows for better cylinder filling. Your backpressure or drive pressure is higher under boost then you're boost pressure. The correct valve events wont allow the higher exhaust pressure in the cylunder while it is being evacuated to get pushed into the intake runner Because the boost pressure is not as high as the back pressure of the Turbo. Same thing goes for N/A engines but you do not have boost pressure to help combat the the pressure difference. Speaking to what I said earlier about high flow at low lift, you need to know what your valve is doing every 50thou of cam lift. You then need to apply your rocker ratio to that calculation. When you get into higher Rocker ratios it changes the speed of the valve and believe it or not it also changes you're duration numbers. When your picking a camshaft & you're only choosing it based off at 50 numbers then you are very much in the dark & playing with fire. I would recommend that you don't buy a camshaft unless it has a Cam Doctor sheet or you have something that shows you it is what it is advertised as. Also they may be the same at 50 but at other lift numbers they are drastically different. You can have 2 cam shafts that have the exact same durations, LSA & max lift numbers and they could have a 100hp diffrence. If you don't believe me go check out the guy that did the camshaft challenge here recently. I've learned a lot from that dude. Thats why I think LSA is important for boost but is not something you choose a cam off of. Base it off of what your car is & what your doing with it, that is the most important. You should select your camshaft based on your needs and you should be striving to get the best valve events for what you are trying to do. You need to base it off of opening and closing events & off the size & efficiently of your engine's parts u have available. Idk lol... I just love my GOD, "MERICA" putting things together, learning new shit and making things make sense. Then you can apply knowledge & make things work better... Thanks brother!! God-bless...
@danieljames5875 nicely said! I have been down the rabbit hole on back pressure and camshaft selection for sure. One that I still have trouble with is scavenging effects with high drive pressure
Try running no intercooler on low boost, say under 15 psi. My turbo ls 5.3 with a $200 gt45 has been 10.33 on like 8 pounds of boost on E85 on like 17 degrees of timing. I bracket race it regularly. My jEGS converter flashes to 5000 rpm when leaving so that helps a lot. My opinion is that getting rid of all that cold side leaky intercooler piping bullshit really brings the turbo alive. On a 90 degree race day I saw 180 degree inlet temps in the traps quarter mile at 8 pounds of boost. I know this junk gt45 will go nines lol!
I'd like to know your 351w setup.
Asked a vs dealer what turbo to get, and he said the t6 next gen 80mm. With race cover, over the gen 3 7875. For street car with lq4 and want around 700hp. Will flip stock manifolds and 2.25 to turbo, and 4 to dual 3 exhaust. And will use the truck norris cam. Believe i have 3.32 gears. Hope its not to laggy.
For only 700 the vs gen 3 7875 with the 1.25 ar would be deadly
If you were curious how it sounds. ruclips.net/video/0pAE_kaD4MU/видео.html
If you have an auto with a stall, that wouldn't be a problem. Stab throttle, converter flashes, turbo lights
Stalls not bad, I can footbrake 3800rpm 16psi on it
I'm going to put a bb billet 78/75 .96 ar on cast 5.3 will I choke it ? Only after 600rwhp, thanks
@1tufhk nope you'll love it, that's close to tapped out on pump gas though
I have same setup in my sn95 lq4 with ported heads and cam made 430rwhp now put the 7875 on how much power can it hold and what power should mine roughly make at 14lbs?
Mid 600s
Save yourself the troubles and headaches and save a couple more dollars up and go with a supercharger, much more simple and easy to figure out!!!….and the power is right there!!!!…….although that is a clean ass install on that beautiful notch and i bet its a hoot to drive
You must have never been in a turbo ls car lol
@@sambert96 yea they are a blast …..just wayyy to much to go wrong, and when it goes wrong it goes south….QUICKLY!!!
If done right you will never deal with stupid belt’s breaking or shredding.
Plus chargers can take 100s of hp to drive them.
'Promo sm'