Defender door striker adjustment early 2 piece doors and rear van/station wagon doors
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- Опубликовано: 30 авг 2018
- / britrest
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If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line! Maybe I can help!
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Thank you for such a detailed explanation!
Glad it was helpful!
I've just got some galv split doors from a reputable company to replace my rotten push button doors on my '89 Ninety. The old doors shut and sealed just fine and were lined up in the door gaps evenly. New passenger side door was a breeze to fit with everything lining up to an acceptable standard, minimal adjustment on the striker needed. Shuts nice enough. But...drivers side is proving a right pain. To get the striker pin centred, I've had to take a couple of MM off the *back* of the striker with a grinder. Now, I've shut the door, which shut nice enough and the door won't open. Latch won't disengage back to the first click (but will click back onto the second, and then lock and unlock with the key), I had to take the entire mechanism out to get the door back open, checked that the latch clicks twice opening and closing, and all good. Tried setting it all up again without the adjustable rubber bit, as worried it was too tight a gap, but same result again with latch not disengaging fully. I'm not in a position to start undoing tub or bulkhead and making adjustments at the moment, as it's in daily use. Am I missing something obvious? Appreciate any advice you might have.
Very concise description Mike in door lock adjustment. Going home to try it now!
Thanks!
Mike
Great, many thanks Mike! Very timely as I need to adjust the rear door latch on my ‘72 88” station wagon and this is brilliant.
Given my symptoms, just from watching the video think I’ve diagnosed the issue (stopping at first latch click) and how to make the necessary adjustments. Will check tomorrow.
I’ve also got a full set of door seals as some on the vehicle are rock hard, but think the latch adjustment will get the basic job done. Changing the seals should just make shutting the door easier.
Many thanks again
Great! We had some dust coming through the rear door, so I moved the striker about 5mm further inwards - no dust anymore :-)
But with what I learnt now, I'll check if I adjusted everything correctly. Cheers!
Excellent!
Fantastic demonstration.
Thank you! Cheers!
Right on time, Mike. The new rear door is waiting to be fitted :-)
Excellent!
Mike
Very nice videos Mike :) who needs a Haynes manual when we've got you
Actually Nigel, I am getting quite a few Patreon's donating to me rather than buying Land Rover magazine subscriptions
I am not full of adverts, I will do actual repairs that you can do at home to save you a few bob, and I do requests!
Great value for money!
:-)
Great. Excellent explanation as always. Could you please tell me how far from the edge the lock is positioned internally? That is, with respect to the holes already present, it is necessary to drill to position the block. Could you tell me the exact location? Thank you
Sorry I no longer have this vehicle
Brilliant! Thanks Mike!
Thanks!
M
Looks like the same latch that is on my rear door on my ‘95 NAS 🤔
Great instruction - Thanks!
Thanks Peter!
M
I found that adjusting the screw a little stopped my rear door from rattling.
It's funny they do not mention that in the manual - seems we have to find out the hard way!
Mike
Im having the same problem with the rattling at the moment. Did you find tightening or loosening the screw helped? Thanks
@@soer42 I thought it did but it still rattles a little. Mines much worse in cold weather though, it's hardly noticeable when it's warm so probs a contraction expansion thing..
I've been buggerising around with my locks on my 6x6 perentie but it has the countie style push button locks and not the anti burst locks like the 4x4's do. I replaced the locking mechanism as the original ones are welded open. Let the door free fall close and the door latched perfectly. Then when I finished I wound up the window and found I had to slam the door to get it to latch into the closed position..... Damn landys too air tight
A few years ago as an experiment, we put a movie quality smoke machine in a 110 to see where it would leak from
- everywhere!
Smoke even came out of the pop rivets!
I may just do this again in the future - only with no trim in the vehicle - that smoke is not good for fabric!
However!
If you make an air tight Defender - the heater will not work properly (as if they ever did)
Think of putting glass marbles in a jar - you have to take one out to put one in!
Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations I think my perentie is like a check valve, water pours in but air can't escape. Wouldn't want it any other way though, who else has to put gumboots on just so they can have dry feet when they drive to the shops..... Oh wait, people with xf falcons have to do that
Love you're videos also mate, keep em coming
Ah! Its a feature!
Self washing floors
LR think of everything!
M
Hi Mike, so you just bolt the striker on then, not worrying about the up/down/left/right wobble? Those holes are quite a bit bigger than the bolts.
There is no adjustment on the latch - just the striker - make sure the striker is in the middle of the latch part with shims, and then nip up the bolts and try the door - just do this slowly do not slam it and feel the latch by the handle - you will have to move the striker a bit at a time until it latches without force - best to do this with no rubber seals on the door
@@BritannicaRestorations Do I start with 1 shim or none?
1 shim will be ok
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike, appreciated.
Bril!!
You're welcome!
M